RU2302229C2 - Cosmetic cream - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: cosmetology.

SUBSTANCE: the present innovation deals with cosmetic nourishing and moisturizing creams for facial skin. The cream suggested contains the mixture of cetearete-6 and stearyl alcohol, stearic acid, triethanolamine, cetearyl alcohol, triglyceride caprylic/caproic acid, mink fat, vegetable oil, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, carbonic acid extract of celandine, glycerol, flavouring, hydrocarbon propellent, water - the rest. The cream suggested is of positive correcting action upon the function of sebaceous glands in case if seborrhea faciei and, also, upon the size of pores in case of no dehydration effect and regulates lipid exchange, as well.

EFFECT: higher efficiency.

1 cl, 5 tbl

Description

The invention relates to cosmetology, in particular to cosmetic nourishing and moisturizing creams for the skin of the face, regulating lipid metabolism and reducing pore size, and can be recommended for facial skin care with the effects of oily seborrhea.

The patent RU 2102973 discloses a cosmetic cream containing the following components in wt.%:

Celandine Herb Oil Extract 1.00-60.0 Vitamin A 0.001-3.00 Vitamin E 0.1-18.0 Folic acid 0.001-0.5 Preservative 0,03 Perfume 0.2 The basis rest

When applying this well-known cream 2-4 times a day for a month in the amount of 0.5-1.0 ml, the patients had a whitening effect, there was a restoration of skin turgor, reduction of wrinkles, and a softening effect on the skin. And also in individuals with inflamed, irritated skin, a distinct decrease in the inflammatory response was noted.

Closest to the proposed cream is disclosed in the copyright certificate SU 1561983. This cream contains the following components in wt.%:

Cosmetic stearin 3-5 Emulsion wax 3-5 Glycerol monostearate 3-5 Vegetable oil 6-8 Isopropyl palmitate 2-4 Triethanolamine 0.3-1.0 Glycerol 3-5 Oil extract corn stigmas 0.5-2.0 Water-alcohol glycerin fruit extract horse chestnut 0.5-3.0 Water-alcohol glycerin celandine extract 0.5-3.0 Benzyl alcohol 0.2-1.0 Paraoxybenzoic methyl ester acid 0.1-0.5 Paraoxybenzoic propyl ester acid 0.05-0.15 Perfume 0.5-2.0 Water rest

This cream allows you to increase the softening and moisturizing properties, as well as eliminate the residual effects of acne.

However, the known creams do not allow to achieve a positive corrective effect on the function of the sebaceous glands with oily seborrhea, as well as to reduce the pore size in the absence of a dehydrating effect.

The objective of the invention is to eliminate the inherent disadvantages of known creams.

The problem is solved in that a cosmetic cream containing vegetable oil, triethanolamine, glycerin, celandine extract, perfume and water, additionally contains a mixture of ceteareth-6 and stearyl alcohol, stearic acid, cetearyl alcohol, caprylic / caproic acid triglyceride, mink fat, ethylgene methoxycinnamate and hydrocarbon propellant, and as a celandine extract contains supercritical carbon dioxide extract of celandine, in the following ratio, wt.%:

A mixture of ceteareth-6 and stearyl alcohol 0.1-0.8 Stearic acid 0.5-5.0 Triethanolamine 0.2-1.5 Cetearyl alcohol 0.1-1.0 Caprylic / Caproic Acid Triglyceride 0.2-5.0 Mink Fat 0.2-7.0 Vegetable oil 1.0-10.0 Ethylhexyl methoxy cinnamate 0.1-1.0 Celandine Carbon Dioxide Extract 0.05-0.8 Glycerol 0.5-10.0 Perfume 0.05-1.0 Hydrocarbon propellant 2.0-15.0 Water rest

In private embodiments of the invention, the problem is solved in that the cream contains extra virgin olive oil as a vegetable oil.

The invention consists in the following.

Thanks to aerosol packaging, it was possible to create a modern cream formula without preservatives, eliminating their negative effect on the skin.

The components of the cream and their content are selected in such a way as to obtain a cream with a gentle, airy texture that is easy to apply, quickly absorbed, making the skin smooth like silk, and the natural oils and celandine extract contained in it normalize the activity of the sebaceous glands, have a soothing and anti-inflammatory action, provide intensive skin hydration. A UV filter protects the skin from the harmful effects of sunlight.

Supercritical (SC) carbon dioxide extract of celandine has an anti-inflammatory effect, normalizes water-fat metabolism in skin cells. Relieves irritation of inflamed skin.

By supercritical celandine extract is meant a carbon dioxide extract of celandine obtained by extraction at supercritical pressure. It is delivered in accordance with the requirements of TU 9154-001-51585120-01.

As a mixture of ceteareth-6 and stearyl alcohol (ceteareth-6 and stearyl alcohol), Cremophor A6 is used, which in the cream acts as an emulsifier.

Stearic acid together with triethanolamine, supplied according to TU 6-09-2428-91, also act as an emulsifier.

As cetearyl alcohol, Lanette D. is used.

In cream, cetearyl alcohol (Lanette D) is a structure-forming component.

Caprylic / capric triglyceride triglyceride (caprilic | capric triglyceride), which uses Rofetan GTCC emollient, gives the skin softness and velvety, is a plasticizer and improves the appearance of the cream mass.

Mink fat contains a large amount of polyunsaturated fatty alcohols, due to which it has a regenerating, moisturizing and softening effect. Contains a natural UV filter. Of all known fats, mink fat has the greatest penetration into the skin. Contains Vitamin E Derivatives. Prevents peeling and aging.

Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate), which is used Uvinul MC 80, protects the skin from the harmful effects of ultraviolet B rays.

Vegetable oil, which is used as olive oil, contains about 84% oleic acid and cholesterol, which ideally optimize lipid metabolism in the skin, increase the level of hydration in the epidermis.

Glycerin is a moisturizing component. The claimed composition of the cream uses dynamite glycerin D 98 in accordance with GOST 6824 or supplied by import.

Hydrocarbon propellant - propellant of the active product.

Demineralized water is used as a solvent in accordance with STP 00204263-58-99.

Fragrance gives a pleasant smell to the product.

The invention is as follows.

To prepare the cream, a prescription amount of demineralized water is pumped into the reactor with a volume of 1.6 m ³ through the meter, then glycerin is loaded with a submersible pump, manually - triethanolamine.

Include a mixer (30-40 rpm) and heating. The contents of the reactor are heated to a temperature of 75-80 ° C. Turn off the stirrer.

In parallel, in the other 2.0 m ³ reactor, manually calculated quantities are loaded manually through the hatch: olive oil, stearic acid, Rofetan GTCC, Lanette D, mink fat, Cremophor A6. Include a mixer (30-40 rpm) and heating. The contents of this reactor are heated to a temperature of 75-80 ° C, stirred until the components are completely dissolved and the contents of the first reactor are fed into it. Turn off the heating. The homogenizer is turned on (homogenization parameters are approved during the preparation of experimental batches) and emulsified for 30-40 minutes. When the emulsion reaches a temperature of 45-50 ° C, the carbon dioxide extract of celandine is manually loaded, Uvinul MS 80, mixed for 20-25 minutes. Then cold water is fed into the jacket of the reactor, when the temperature reaches 40 ° C, the recipe amount of perfume is manually loaded. The contents are mixed for 15-20 minutes. Turn off the stirrer and water.

Then take a sample of the product to check the physico-chemical and microbiological parameters. With a positive conclusion from the laboratory, the finished product at a temperature of 40 ° C is pumped by a membrane pump into a mobile heated reactor with a stirrer (15-20 rpm), the temperature of which is maintained at 40 ° C, and fed to the filling line.

During the entire preparation and packaging of the cream emulsion, the product temperature is maintained at 40 ° C.

Table 1 shows the compositions of the resulting cream.

Table 1. Component Name The content of components, wt.% Composition 1 Composition 2 Composition 3 Cremophor A6 0.1 0.4 0.8 Stearic acid 5.0 2.0 0.5 Triethanolamine Pure 0.6 0.2 1.5 Lanette D (C16-C20) 0.1 1.0 0.6 Rofetan GTCC 0.2 2.0 5.0 Mink Fat 7.0 1.0 0.2 Extra virgin olive oil 1.0 3.0 10.0 Uvinul MC80 0.5 1.0 0.1 SC CO ₂ celandine extract 0.05 0.1 0.8 Glycerin dynamite D 98 4.0 10.0 0.5 Perfume 0.1 0.05 1.0 Propellant hydrocarbon m. B 2.0 15.0 8.0 Demineralized water rest

The resulting cream formulations were subjected to clinical studies.

Table 2 shows the characteristics of the object of research

Table 2. Study group Skin type Age Floor Total amount Volunteers Combined and oily skin 23-48 Wives fifteen

The evaluation of the effectiveness of the cream

Table 3 shows the data on sebometry.

As follows from table 3, revealed an increase in total lipids on the skin after 1 hour lasting up to 2 hours with a tendency to decrease greasiness after course use.

Table 4 shows the data on moisture measurement

Table 5 shows pore size measurement data.

Table 5. Average pore size for a group of volunteers (in mm) before using the drug after using the drug 0.12 mm 0.09 mm one hundred% -19.2%

As follows from the data presented, the cream according to the invention is intended for effective care of combination and oily skin. The use of cosmetic products for 10 days led to a decrease in pore size by 19.2% compared to the original.

After applying the drug, a short-term reflex increase in total lipids was observed, lasting up to 2 hours, followed by a decrease in the level of total lipids after the course of the drug.

A 21.3% increase in skin moisture was detected an hour after application. Dermis hydration indices returned to baseline 3 hours after application of the drug.

Thus, the investigated cream has a positive corrective effect on the function of the sebaceous glands, as well as on the pore size in the absence of a dehydrating effect. The cream should be recommended for use at home.

Claims (2)

1. Cosmetic cream containing vegetable oil, triethanolamine, glycerin, celandine extract, perfume and water, characterized in that it additionally contains a mixture of ceteareth-6 and stearyl alcohol, stearic acid, cetearyl alcohol, caprylic / caproic acid triglyceride, mink fat, ethylhexyl methoxy cinnamate and hydrocarbon propellant, and as a celandine extract contains supercritical carbon dioxide celandine extract in the following ratio, wt.%: A mixture of ceteareth-6 and stearyl alcohol 0.1-0.8 Stearic acid 0.5-5.0 Triethanolamine 0.2-1.5 Cetearyl alcohol 0.1-1.0 Caprylic / Caproic Acid Triglyceride 0.2-5.0 Mink Fat 0.2-7.0 Vegetable oil 1.0-10.0 Ethylhexyl methoxy cinnamate 0.1-1.0 Celandine Carbon Dioxide Extract 0.05-0.8 Glycerol 0.5-10.0 Perfume 0.05-1.0 Hydrocarbon propellant 2.0-15.0 Water Rest 2. The cream according to claim 1, characterized in that as vegetable oil contains extra virgin olive oil.