KR970000315B1 - Method of pleating garments and pleated garments - Google Patents

Abstract

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Description

Clothing Pleating Method and Wrinkle Clothing

1 (a) to 1 (d) are diagrams showing how to unfold and twist the unfinished clothing.

FIG. 2 is a diagram illustrating a method of putting twisted unfinished clothing into a heat treatment apparatus as shown in FIG. 1 (d).

Figure 3 is a view showing the wrinkled clothing (blouse) made by stretching the unfinished clothing after the heat treatment of the unfinished clothing with a heat treatment apparatus.

4 (a) to 4 (e) are diagrams showing how the unfinished clothing is folded and twisted in another way.

5 is a view showing a wrinkled garment (blouse) made by heat-treating a garment after heat-treating the twisted garment as shown in FIG. 4 (e).

6 (a) and 6 (b) are diagrams showing how to knit a sleeved unfinished garment in a particular way.

7 is a view showing a wrinkled garment (sheath) made by heat-treating a garment after heat-treating the twisted garment as shown in FIG. 6 (b).

8 (a) to (8f) are diagrams showing how to unwrap unfinished clothing, cover it with a urethane resin sheet, and then twist it.

9 is a view showing a wrinkled garment (dress) made by heat-treating the garment after heat-treating the twisted garment as shown in FIG. 8 (f).

10 (a) shows an unfinished garment to be pleated.

FIG. 10 (b) is a diagram showing a method of temporarily sewing the clothes shown in FIG. 10 (a) before sewing them.

Figure 10 (c) is a view showing the wrinkled clothing made by unfolding the temporary sewn clothing twisted and heat-treated.

* Explanation of symbols for main parts of the drawings

10: blouse 14: unfinished clothing

15: pocket 16: button

20: heat treatment apparatus 21: holder

22: Edition 23: Clip

50: Sheath 70: Dress

76 sheet 77,78 string

90: raincoat 97: temporary sewing parts

98: hollow cylindrical body

The present invention relates to a method of manufacturing wrinkled clothing such as wrinkled skirt, wrinkled dress, wrinkled blouse and wrinkled slack by wrinkling unfinished clothing.

Methods for producing wrinkled garments such as wrinkled skirts are known. Kinds of skirts with pleats include flared skirts, gathered skirts, and pleated skirts. The method of forming pleats in skirts, dresses, blouses, slacks, etc. is generally called pleating.

Pleated clothing has the right shades, giving a visual effect, a special aesthetic. Wrinkles also give the clothing flexibility, so the wearer does not feel tight and is free to act even when a normal size dress is tight on the wearer.

Pleated garments such as pleated skirts, pleated dresses, pleated blouses and pleated slacks are usually manufactured in the following steps in most cases.

(1) First, the selected fabric is cut into several pieces having a predetermined shape and size (cutting step).

(2) The pieces are pressed in preparation for the next step, ie pleating (pressing step).

(3) The pieces are pleated by a pleating machine or by hand (fletting step).

(4) The pleated pieces are placed in a heat treatment apparatus and heated with saturated steam to fix wrinkles (heat treatment step).

(5) The pieces having the fixed wrinkles are stitched together with a sewing machine to produce a wrinkle garment (sewing step).

As mentioned above, corrugated garments are usually made by first cutting the fabric into pieces, then pleating the pieces, and finally sewing the pieces together. In some cases, however, the fabric is first pleated, then the pleated fabric is cut into pieces, and finally these pieces are stitched together to form a pleated garment. In either case, the button is attached during the sewing phase.

Recently, pieces of fabric are first sewn together into unfinished clothing, and then the unfinished clothing is pleated. One method of forming wrinkles in unfinished clothing is called a pleating method, which is disclosed in Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 2-269866.

In the above pleating method, the fabric pieces are first sewn together, and then the unfinished clothing thus made is pleated. Thus, the finished garment, that is, the wrinkled garment, has sufficient flexibility and may have various designs exhibiting different aesthetics.

As described above, the conventional method for producing wrinkled clothing consists of many steps, namely, cutting step, pressing step, pleating step, heat treatment step and sewing step. The method also includes placing the pleated garment in a packaging case. Therefore, the manufacture of wrinkled garments by this conventional method takes a long time. This method does not satisfy many requirements for wrinkled clothing.

The pleating method includes fixing a piece of fabric to be sewn to another piece or to an unfinished garment (ie pieces of fabric to be sewn together) between an upper mold having a groove and a lower mold having complementary protrusions on the groove of the upper mold. do. Most upper and lower molds, commonly known as pleating molds, are made of metal. A pair of molds are attached to the pleating apparatus to form wrinkles in unfinished clothing.

Ordinary or simple wrinkles can be formed with a pleating machine fitted with a metal pleating mold. However, complex wrinkles such as pleated sidewalls, accordion-like wrinkles, and pattern-matched wrinkles cannot be formed by the pleating machine. These complex folds can be manually formed using a pleating mold made of paper. As you can see, the formation of complex wrinkles takes a lot of time.

Whether forming wrinkles by hand or by hand, it is necessary to use a pleating mold. It may have wrinkles, but the design is inevitably limited. Therefore, it is difficult to manufacture large quantities of garments having wrinkles of various designs.

To create any newly designed pleats, one pair of pleating molds, the upper mold and the lower mold, must be manufactured. Even if it is necessary to pleat unfinished clothing at once, it is necessary to produce an upper mold and a lower mold, each consisting of many mold members. Needless to say, the manufacture of such pleating molds takes a long time, which impedes the rapid mass production of wrinkled clothing.

Accordingly, an object of the present invention to provide a method of manufacturing a garment having various forms of wrinkles by pleating unfinished clothing at high speed.

Another object of the present invention is to provide a garment having various types of wrinkles.

In order to achieve this object, in the method according to the invention, the unfinished clothing is first rolled up and then twisted and finally heat treated without using any pleating molds (upper and lower molds).

When the twists heat the unfinished garment, they have a special form of wrinkles, depending on how the garment is twisted. Thus, unfinished clothing can be pleated and heat treated simultaneously.

Hereinafter, exemplary embodiments of the present invention will be described in detail with reference to the accompanying drawings.

The pleating method of the blouse 10 shown in FIG. 1 (a) which is the first embodiment of the present invention will first be described. The blouse 10 is composed of two sleeves 11L and 11R, two front portions 12FL and 12FR and a rear portion 12B, which are cut from a cloth and sewn with a sewing machine. The blouse 10 has two pockets 15 sewn to the front portions 12FL and 12FR, respectively, and several buttons 16 attached to the left front portion 12FL.

The blouse 10, i.e., the unfinished clothing 14, is folded on the basis of a dotted line as indicated by the arrow ① in FIG. Next, the unfinished clothing 14 thus folded is rolled as shown by the arrow ② in FIG. 1 (b) to form a roll shape in FIG. 1 (c). The horse then twists the garment 14 as shown in FIG. 1 (d). Alternatively, the unfinished garment 14 shown in FIG. 1 (a) may be rolled up without folding as shown in FIG. 1 (b). The horse may also twist the garment 14 (FIG. 1 (c)) to have a knot.

Thereafter, the twisted garment 14 is attached to the holder 21 and the holder 21 is placed in the heat treatment apparatus 20 as shown in FIG. The holder 21 consists of a rigid plate 22 and two sets of clips 23 fixed to both sides thereof. Twist one end of the garment 14 to one of the first sets of clips 23 and the other end of the garment 14 to one of the second sets of clips 23. The holder 21 fixing the twisted garment 14 is placed in the heat treatment apparatus 20. The holder 21 may grasp the unfinished clothing 14 and replace it with another type capable of holding the twisted opponent.

The heat treatment apparatus 20 is a known type in which saturated steam is filled. Saturated steam penetrates deeply into the twisted garment (14). As a result, the unfinished garment 14 has a permanent fold, i.e., a pleat, having a specific pattern and length, depending on how it is folded and twisted.

Finally, the holder is taken out of the heat treatment apparatus 20 and the twisted garment 14 heat-treated in the holder 21 is taken out. Unfold and untwist the garment 14 to obtain the finished garment 14 shown in FIG. As is apparent from FIG. 3, the finished garment 14 (ie, the blouse 10) has a permanent wrinkle.

A pleating method of another blouse 30 shown in FIG. 4 (a) which is a second embodiment of the present invention will be described. The blouse 30 is composed of two sleeves 31L and 31R, two front portions 32FL and 32FR and a rear portion 32B, which are cut from the fabric and sewn with a sewing machine. The blouse 30 has a button attached to the left front part 12FL.

First, the left sleeve 31L and the right sleeve 31R are folded over the left front portion 32FL and the right front portion 32FR, respectively, as indicated by the arrow ① in FIG. 4 (a). The blouse 30, i.e., the unfinished clothing 34, is further folded in duplicate as indicated by the arrow ② in FIG. 4 (b). Subsequently, the unfinished clothing 34 thus folded is rolled as shown by the arrow 3 in FIG. 4 (c) to form a roll shape in FIG. 4 (d). The horse then twists the garment 34 as shown in FIG. 4 (e).

The twisted garment 34 is then attached to the holder 21, and the holder 21 is placed in the heat treatment apparatus 20 (FIG. 2). In the heat treatment apparatus 20 saturated steam penetrates deeply into the twisted garment 34. As a result, the unfinished garment 34 has a permanent pleat with a specific pattern and length, depending on how it is folded and twisted.

Subsequently, the holder 21 is taken out of the heat treatment apparatus 20 and the twisted garment 34 heat-treated in the holder 21 is taken out. Unfold and untwist the garment 34 to obtain the finished garment 34 shown in FIG. As is apparent from FIG. 5, the finished garment 34 (ie, the blouse 30) has a permanent wrinkle.

In the conventional pleating method, a piece of fabric to be sewn on another piece or unfinished clothing is first fixed between an upper mold with grooves and a lower mold with protrusions, and then pleated and finally heat treated to wrinkle the fabric or clothes. It is formed permanently.

On the contrary, in the present invention, the twisted clothes 14 or 34 are heat-treated to form wrinkles having a specific shape and length according to a method of folding and twisting the clothes 14. In other words, heat treatment and pleating are performed simultaneously. As is evident, the method of the present invention has fewer steps than conventional pleating methods and thus can pleat unfinished clothing at high speed. The method according to the invention therefore satisfies the requirement of producing large quantities of wrinkled garments.

The pleating mold set, that is, the upper mold and the lower mold used in the conventional method is large in size and cannot be manufactured inexpensively in a short time. In contrast, the method of the present invention does not use pleating molds at all. In this respect too, the method of the present invention makes it possible to manufacture large quantities of wrinkled garments.

In the conventional method the piece of cloth or unfinished clothing is fixed one by one between the upper pleating mold and the lower pleating mold. As is evident, fabric or unfinished clothing cannot be pleated at high speed. This time-consuming pleating method of unfinished clothing inevitably lowers the manufacturing efficiency of wrinkled clothing. In contrast, in the method of the present invention, the unfinished clothing 14 or 34 can be manually twisted at high speed. In addition, since the unfinished clothing is pleated at the same time, the unfinished clothing 14 is heat-treated without the need for heating the clothes longer than in the related art.

Therefore, the pleating step is not disturbed by the high speed production of the pleated clothing.

In addition, since the pleating step is performed after the sewing step, wrinkles can be designed without being limited by the state in which the pieces of fabric are sewn together. By varying the starting position of the unfinished clothing, the direction in which the clothing is rolled, and the angle of twisting the clothing, as shown in the pleated blouse 10 and 30 shown in FIGS. Can be. As a result, the garment pleated by the method of the present invention easily obtains added value.

Since the fabric pieces are sewn together before the pleating step, there is no need to consider the original recovery force of the fabric at all, and there is no need to compress the fabric pieces during sewing on the garment. Because of this, fabric pieces can be sewn at high speed. In addition, since the fabric pieces are sewn before pleating, the fabric pieces do not overlap so much that they can be more easily sewn with a sewing machine.

Because the garments are sewn prior to pleating fabric pieces, the garment has sufficient flexibility as required for pleated clothing.

In the conventional method, the piece of cloth is fixed between the upper pleating mold and the lower pleating mold. Therefore, if a button is applied to the piece of cloth before the pleating step, the button may be damaged by the force of the pleating mold or the like. Therefore, the button should be attached to the garment after the garment is pleated.

In contrast, the button can be attached to an unfinished garment prior to pleating the garment. This is because an unfinished garment pleats the unfinished garment by folding, twisting and heat-treating it without using a pleating mold, regardless of whether a button is attached. For the same reason, pockets can also be sewn into unfinished clothing before pleating the clothing. If buttons and pockets are attached to garments prior to pleating the unfinished garments, they can be shipped immediately after the garment has been heat treated and packaged.

A flitting method of the sheath 50 shown in FIG. 6 (a) which is a third embodiment of the present invention will be described. The sheath 50 is composed of two sleeves 51L and 51R, a front portion 52F and a rear portion 52B, which are cut from a cloth and sewn with a sewing machine. The sheath 50 has a pocket 55 and three buttons 56 attached to the front portion 12F.

First, the lower half of the left sleeve 51L, the right sleeve 51R and the sheath 50 or the unfinished clothing 54 is twisted as shown in FIG. 6 (b), and the collar 58 and the upper half are not twisted. Subsequently, the twisted end of the unfinished garment 54 secures the tip of the detail with the seclip 23 of the holder 21. Thereafter, the holder 21 is placed in the heat treatment apparatus 20 (FIG. 2). In the heat treatment apparatus 20, saturated steam penetrates deeply into the garment 54. Therefore, the unfinished clothing 54 has a special pattern and wrinkles according to the method of twisting the details of the clothing 54.

Then, the holder 21 is taken out of the heat treatment apparatus 20, and the heat-treated twisted garment 54 is separated from the holder 21. Unfold and twist the garment to obtain the finished garment 54 shown in FIG. As is apparent from FIG. 7, the finished garment 54 (ie, the sheath 50) has a permanent wrinkle.

Conventional garment pleating methods cannot be used to pleat unfinished garments with portions or portions that should not be pleated, such as a sheath. That is, these garments cannot be pleated with a pleating machine and need to be pleated manually. In the method of the present invention, an unfinished garment can be easily pleated by twisting and heat treating other portions except for a specific portion or portions thereof.

The pleating method of the dress 70 shown in FIG. 8 (a) which is the fourth embodiment of the present invention will be described. The dress 70 consists of two sleeves 71L and 71R, a front portion 72F and a back portion 72B, which are cut from the fabric and sewn with a sewing machine.

First, as indicated by the arrow ① in FIG. 8 (a), the left sleeve 71L and the right sleeve 71R are folded over the front portion 72F. Subsequently, the bottom half of the dress 70 or unfinished clothing 74 is gathered in a fold as shown in the eighth (b). Subsequently, the unfinished garment 74 is placed on a soft sheet 76 made of an air permeable material such as urethane resin as shown in FIG. 8 (c). The sheet 76 is placed in the unfinished clothing 74 as if in the city of FIG. 8 (d). The roll-like sheet 76 in which the garment 74 is inside is twisted like the city of FIG. 8 (e), and further twisted like the city of FIG. 8 (f), and tied at both ends by the strings 77 and 78.

The twisted wraps of the sheet 76 then secure both ends of the garment 74 with the clips 23 of the holder 21. The holder 21 is placed in the heat treatment apparatus 20 (FIG. 2). In the heat treatment apparatus 20, saturated steam penetrates deeply into the twisted garment 74. Therefore, the unfinished clothing 74 has wrinkles of a specific pattern and length according to a method of folding, gathering and twisting the details of the clothing 74.

Subsequently, the holder 21 is taken out of the heat treatment apparatus 20, and the heat treated twisted garment 74 is separated from the holder 21. Unfold and twist the garment 74 to obtain the finished dress 70 shown in FIG. As is apparent from FIG. 9, the dress 70 has a permanent wrinkle.

In the fourth embodiment, the unfinished clothing 74 is wrapped with a soft sheet 76 made of an air permeable material such as urethane resin, bundled with a string 78, and heat treated. The garment 74 therefore has a much more complex pleat, as shown in FIG. Since the bottom half of the unfinished garment 74 is folded together as shown in FIG. 8 (b), the garment will have straight wrinkles. In contrast, the sleeve and top half of the garment 74 will have less complex folds because they are only folded and not twisted.

Thus, the garment 74 is folded with a soft sheet 76 (i.e. urethane resin), twisted and rolled while wrapped with a sheet 76, while the other portions are folded together and twisted together with the soft sheet 76 and are wrinkled intricately. Has In the first to third embodiments, too, a part of the unfinished clothing can be folded and tightened together with the soft sheet.

A narrow piece of clothing, such as a waist, is formed of smaller pieces of cloth than other pieces of cloth. The more narrow the garment, the more difficult it will be to make the garment by cutting the fabric and sewing the pieces. According to the present invention, the garment having a somewhat narrow portion can be easily manufactured by pleating the unfinished garment by a specific method described below.

A pleating method of the raincoat 90 shown in FIG. 10 (a) which is a fifth embodiment of the present invention will be described. In the first step, as shown in FIG. 10 (b), both shoulder portions of the unfinished clothing 94, the middle portion of one of the sleeves, and both sleeve ends are temporarily sewn. Also, temporarily sew two more parts of the lower back and lower back. As shown in Fig. 10 (c), the thread of the temporary stitched portion 97 is pulled to narrow two portions of the shoulder portion, the middle portion of one sleeve, the end of both sleeves, the waist portion and the lower portion of the waist portion. The unfinished garment 94 is then pressed with a press and wound around the hollow cylinder 98 for heat treatment. As a result, the garment 94 has a permanent wrinkle. After the garment 94 is heat treated, the thread of the sewing portion 97 is pulled out of the garment 94. Even after the thread has been removed from the garment 94, the narrow portion thereof remains narrow or compressed. Therefore, the raincoat 90 is pleated and has a narrow portion as shown in FIG. 10 (c).

As described above, the unfinished garment 94 is any narrowed or tightly closed portion by temporarily sewing any predetermined portion and pulling a thread forming a temporary sewing portion, heat treating and pleating the garment to remove the temporary sewing portion. It can have The site can be as narrow as desired by pulling the thread appropriately. In the fifth embodiment, each predetermined portion of the garment 94 is temporarily sewn all over the front and back. Alternatively, some parts may be temporarily sewn in part, and thus will be partially pleated.

In the method described with reference to FIGS. 10 (a) to 10 (c), any part of the garment can be narrowed regardless of which piece of fabric the part is made of. There is no need to take special measures to cut the fabric into pieces or to sew pieces of fabric into unfinished clothing. That is, the unfinished clothing can be pressed at any predetermined angle at any site. This makes it possible to design a variety of wrinkled clothing.

The unfinished clothing 94 is compressed and dried around the hollow cylindrical body 98 in the method according to the fifth embodiment. The raincoat 90 may be packaged before unrolling the dried body from the cylinder 98. In this case, the raincoat 90 can be shipped immediately. Since the raincoat is dried around the cylinder 98, it remains unbroken during transportation. Therefore, the wrinkles of the garment are kept neat and stable.

In the above embodiments, the blouses 10 and 30, the sheath 50, the dress 70 and the raincoat 90 were pleated. However, the method of the present invention can also be applied to the production of other kinds of wrinkled clothing, such as T-sheath, sheath, slack, cocktail dress.

The specific method of folding, rolling, braiding, tying, and temporarily sewing the unfinished clothing, which are all performed in the above embodiments, is merely an embodiment. In accordance with the present invention, an unfinished garment can be folded, rolled, twisted, tied up, and temporarily sewn in several other possible ways.

The present invention is not limited to the above-described embodiments which are only implementations. That is, various changes and modifications can be made without departing from the spirit and trend of the present invention.

According to the present invention as described above, when the twisted heat treatment of the unfinished clothing, the unfinished clothing has a wrinkle of the size and shape determined according to the twisting method. As is apparent, any method of the present invention has fewer steps than conventional methods of separately performing the pleating step and the heat treatment. Thus, the method of the present invention can pleat unfinished clothing at high speed, thereby satisfying the requirement of producing a large amount of wrinkled garments.

In the process of the present invention, unfinished clothing can be easily and quickly twisted by hand. Clothes are pleated simultaneously with heat treatment, but the time required for heat treatment is not so long. Also, unlike the conventional method, no pleating mold is used. Therefore, the invention of the present invention does not hinder mass production of wrinkled clothing.

Since the pleating step is performed after the sewing step, the pleats can be designed without regard to the state of sewing the pieces of cloth together. By changing the way in which unfinished clothing is made, how to twist it, and if necessary, how to fold the unfinished clothing before it is finished, the garment has a variety of visual effects, a variety of aesthetics. Therefore, the garment pleated by the method of the present invention easily obtains added value.

As indicated, the fabric is sewn before the pleating step. Therefore, it is not necessary to consider the original resilience of the fabric, nor to seize the piece of cloth during sewing on the garment. This makes it possible to sew pieces of cloth at high speed. In addition, since the fabric pieces are sewn before the pleating step, the fabric pieces can be easily sewn by sewing.

Since the fabric pieces are sewn before the pleating step, the pleated garment has the flexibility as required for the pleated garment.

In the method of the invention the buttons can be sewn to the unfinished garment before the garment is pleated. This is because unfinished clothing is folded by heat treatment without folding or twisting, and without using any pleating mold at all. If buttons and pockets are sewn to unfinished clothing before the garment's pleating phase, they can be heat-treated and shipped immediately after packaging.

According to the present invention, it is possible to easily pleat the unfinished clothing by twisting and heat-treating other parts except for a specific part or parts of the unfinished clothing.

Unfinished clothing can also have complex folds in certain ways, while some parts are folded and twisted while others are put together and folded and twisted. As a result, the garment will have pleats of complex design.

In another method of the present invention, an unfinished garment is heat-treated by wrapping it with a soft sheet made of an air permeable material such as urethane resin, and tying it with a string. The garment therefore has a complex fold by the string tie step.

In another method of the present invention, any portion of an unfinished garment may be temporarily sewn to narrow the portion to squeeze and pull the thread to form a temporary sewing portion. Thus, by heat treating the garment, the compression region will have wrinkles of size and shape that are determined by the amount of thread pulled. This makes it possible to design a variety of wrinkles wrinkle clothing.

As mentioned above, in the method of the present invention, the unfinished clothing is not only twisted before heat treatment, but wrapped, for example, with a soft sheet of urethane resin, and then laced or folded, or by temporarily sewing any predetermined portion to prepare the portion Squeeze. It is therefore possible to pleat clothing at high speeds in multiple designs. Thus, the method of the present invention provides a wrinkle garment which is completely different from the concept of wrinkle garments thus far produced.

Claims (12)

Drying the unfinished clothing made by sewing the pieces of cloth together, this means twisting the clothing, placing the twisted clothing in a heat treatment apparatus, and heat treating the clothes twisted in a heat treatment apparatus filled with saturated steam. A pleating method of clothing comprising the step of pleating. The method of claim 1, further comprising folding the garment prior to rolling the unfinished garment. Pleating the unfinished clothing made by sewing the pieces of cloth together except for a portion thereof; and pleating the partially twisted clothing in a heat treatment apparatus filled with saturated steam to pleat the garment. Way. Wrapping the unfinished garments made by sewing the pieces of cloth together with a soft sheet of air permeability and heat resistance, twisting the garment and the soft sheet together, rolling them into a roll, tying them with a string, And putting the sieve into a heat treatment apparatus, and heat-treating the roll body in a heat treatment apparatus filled with saturated steam to pleat the clothes. 5. The method of claim 4, further comprising folding the garment before wrapping the unfinished garment with a compute sheet. 5. The method of claim 4, further comprising the step of drying said garment before wrapping said unfinished garment with a calculation sheet. 6. The method of claim 5, further comprising the step of drying the garment before wrapping the unfinished garment with a computational sheet. Temporarily sewing any predetermined portion of the unfinished clothing made by sewing the pieces of cloth together to form a temporary sewing portion, and pulling the thread forming the temporary sewing portion to compress the predetermined portion of the clothing; Pressing the unfinished garment, rolling the pressed garment around a cylindrical body, forming a roll body, placing a cylindrical body having the roll-shaped garment in a heat treatment apparatus, and Pleating the garment comprising the step of heat-treating the garment in a heat treatment apparatus filled with saturated steam. Wrinkle clothing produced by the method of claim 1. Wrinkle clothing produced by the method of claim 3. Wrinkle clothing produced by the method of claim 4. Wrinkle clothing produced by the method of claim 8.