CN102011297B - Crimped fabric and preparation method thereof - Google Patents
Crimped fabric and preparation method thereof Download PDFInfo
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- CN102011297B CN102011297B CN2010105785344A CN201010578534A CN102011297B CN 102011297 B CN102011297 B CN 102011297B CN 2010105785344 A CN2010105785344 A CN 2010105785344A CN 201010578534 A CN201010578534 A CN 201010578534A CN 102011297 B CN102011297 B CN 102011297B
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- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 94
- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 18
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 title abstract description 7
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 86
- 238000001035 drying Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 32
- 238000004043 dyeing Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 29
- 238000007493 shaping process Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 29
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 17
- 241000251468 Actinopterygii Species 0.000 claims abstract description 6
- 239000000975 dye Substances 0.000 claims description 58
- 238000010792 warming Methods 0.000 claims description 21
- 238000001816 cooling Methods 0.000 claims description 14
- SJEYSFABYSGQBG-UHFFFAOYSA-M Patent blue Chemical compound [Na+].C1=CC(N(CC)CC)=CC=C1C(C=1C(=CC(=CC=1)S([O-])(=O)=O)S([O-])(=O)=O)=C1C=CC(=[N+](CC)CC)C=C1 SJEYSFABYSGQBG-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 claims description 7
- 239000002253 acid Substances 0.000 claims description 7
- 239000000980 acid dye Substances 0.000 claims description 7
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 claims description 7
- 238000005406 washing Methods 0.000 claims description 7
- 238000003756 stirring Methods 0.000 claims description 5
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 abstract description 8
- 238000009990 desizing Methods 0.000 abstract description 2
- 239000011664 nicotinic acid Substances 0.000 abstract 1
- 238000005516 engineering process Methods 0.000 description 8
- 238000012545 processing Methods 0.000 description 6
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 description 5
- 239000011230 binding agent Substances 0.000 description 3
- KRKNYBCHXYNGOX-UHFFFAOYSA-N citric acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CC(O)(C(O)=O)CC(O)=O KRKNYBCHXYNGOX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 229920006300 shrink film Polymers 0.000 description 3
- 238000010438 heat treatment Methods 0.000 description 2
- 238000012805 post-processing Methods 0.000 description 2
- 229920000742 Cotton Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000004952 Polyamide Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000000853 adhesive Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000001070 adhesive effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000000740 bleeding effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000003086 colorant Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000007812 deficiency Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000013461 design Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000009826 distribution Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000007613 environmental effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000002932 luster Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000012986 modification Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000004048 modification Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000002688 persistence Effects 0.000 description 1
- 229920002647 polyamide Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920002635 polyurethane Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000004814 polyurethane Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000007921 spray Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000010186 staining Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229920002994 synthetic fiber Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 238000004078 waterproofing Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000009941 weaving Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000037303 wrinkles Effects 0.000 description 1
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Abstract
The invention discloses a preparation method of a crimped fabric and the crimped fabric. The preparation method comprises the following steps of: desizing, alternately circulating hot water and cold water to crimp cloth, dyeing, preserving amplitude, drying and shaping. The crimped fabric is prepared by the method; the fabric crimped by using the hot water and cold water alternately; the method is simple and can be easily controlled; by adopting section dyeing, the dyeing quality is high and the phenomenon of uneven dyeing is avoided; and by the preparation method of the crimped fabric, the product yield is improved, the production efficiency is high, the product quality is stable and the fabric patterns are in fish scale shapes. The crimped patterns of the fabric are in fish scale shapes, are regularly distributed on cloth surfaces, are active on the cloth surface, have bionic effects, give a fresh aesthetic feeling to people and meet the aesthetic tendency of modern people.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of preparation method and gathered web of gathered web.
Background technology
At present, gathered web has become the new lover of garment market, but the gauffer dyeing and weaving thing on the present market, the gauffer spirit is random, and no specific shape is random big, and more inflexible, and style is few, influences the rich of fabric, has reduced aesthetic property.Simultaneously but the method for production gathered web is complicated, product efficiency is low, like the Chinese invention patent application that application number is 200810120070.5, name is called gauffer garment material and production method thereof; Disclose a kind of gauffer garment material and production method thereof, it is binding agent that this gauffer garment material adopts polyurethane adhesive, and lining and heat shrink films are bonded together; Then heat lining is shunk under the drive of heat shrink films; Form predetermined design, again through press polish, typing, obtaining a surperficial part is bright piece face; Part color and luster is than the phaeodium face and have the gauffer garment material of gauffer texture; This garment material is owing to need adopt binding agent that lining is bonded on the heat shrink films when producing, and processing technology is complicated, product efficiency is low, the damage of using binding agent also to bring the environmental protection aspect.
In addition, the processing technology that present wrinkle is dyed cloth only is just to go dyeing after the destarch, is rapidly heated, fast cooling, and it is unusual to be easy to occur dyeing flower etc. for sensitive colors, thereby has reduced the quality of product, and causes the unnecessary wasting of resources.
Summary of the invention
The objective of the invention is to existing gathered web complicated process of preparation, the stiff deficiency of colored shape prepared, provide that a kind of gauffer is unique, the preparation method of the gathered web that has bio-imitability, activity concurrently and the gathered web that this method prepares.
The objective of the invention is to realize through following technical scheme:
One of the object of the invention provides a kind of preparation method of gathered web, comprises that destarch, hot water cold water alternate cycles cloth are wrinkling, dyeing and protect width of cloth drying and shaping;
Preferably, described hot water cold water alternate cycles cloth is wrinkling to be: the water in the dye vat is warmed up to 70-90 ℃, will be distributed into and circulates in the dye vat more than 5 minutes, draining is also injected cold water immediately in dye vat, and recirculation 5-10min has arranged water in the dye vat;
Preferably, described dyeing is to heat up stage by stage dyeing: by the bath raio ratio of water (the cloth weight with) is 1: 10-1: 15 inject cold water in the dye vat, and the water in the dye vat is warmed up to normal temperature; Add levelling agent, acid successively, reach and dissolved the ACID DYES that finishes, the pH value of adjustment dyestuff stirs to 4.5-5; Then go into through wrinkling cloth and carry out temperature-gradient method dyeing; First section is warming up to 60 ℃-70 ℃ with low speed, and second section is warming up to 80 ℃-90 ℃ with middling speed, and the 3rd section to be warming up to 100 ℃-115 ℃ at a high speed; Then between 100 ℃-115 ℃, be incubated 30-60min, again with discharge opeing behind the fast cooling to 80 ℃-90 ℃;
Preferably; The programming rate that described low speed heats up is 0.4 ℃ of-0.6 ℃/min; The programming rate that described middling speed heats up is 0.6 ℃ of-0.9 ℃/min, and the programming rate that described high speed heats up is 1.0 ℃-1.2 ℃, and the cooling rate of described fast cooling is 1.5 ℃ of-3 ℃/min;
Preferably, carry out the cold water washing after the fast cooling discharge opeing;
Preferably, destarch speed is 20m/min-40m/min in the described destarch step;
Preferably, in described guarantor's width of cloth drying and shaping step, bake out temperature is 100-140 ℃, and drying rate is 30-60m/min;
Preferably, after described guarantor's width of cloth drying and shaping step, surpass waterproof and protect width of cloth drying and shaping;
Preferably, setting temperature is 160 ℃-180 ℃ in the typing of the described ultra waterproof guarantor width of cloth, and protecting width of cloth typing speed is 40-60m/min.
Preferably, said destarch step is: ready cloth is carried out destarch and dries clot, and destarch speed is 20m/min-40m/min; Described staining procedure is: dyestuff is an ACID DYES, and dyestuff is put into proportion container, and 60-95 ℃ of water stirs in right amount in addition, fully dissolves subsequent use until dyestuff; Water in the dye vat is warmed up to 80-90 ℃; Go into cloth circulation 5-10min draining and advance cold water immediately and go in the dye vat, it is 1 that recirculation 5-10min has arranged behind the water by bath raio: 10-1: 15 cold water advance in the dye vat, are warmed up to normal temperature; Add levelling agent, acid successively and dissolved the ACID DYES that finishes; The pH value of adjustment dyestuff is warming up to 60 ℃-70 ℃ to 4.5-5 with the speed of 0.4 ℃ of-0.6 ℃/min, and then the speed with 0.6 ℃ of-0.9 ℃/min is warming up to 80 ℃-90 ℃; Speed with 1.0 ℃ of-1.2 ℃/min is warming up to 100 ℃-115 ℃ again; Between 100 ℃-115 ℃, be incubated 30-60min, the speed with 1.5 ℃ of-3 ℃/min is cooled to 70 ℃-90 ℃ again, carries out the cold water washing behind the fast cooling; Described guarantor's width of cloth drying and shaping step is: under 100-140 ℃ temperature, protect width of cloth oven dry with the speed of 30-60m/min;
Preferably, after described guarantor's width of cloth drying and shaping step, surpass waterproof and protect width of cloth drying and shaping, setting temperature is 160 ℃-180 ℃ in the typing of the described ultra waterproof guarantor width of cloth, and protecting width of cloth typing speed is 40-60m/min;
Preferably, after described guarantor's width of cloth drying and shaping step, surpass waterproof and protect width of cloth drying and shaping.
Another object of the present invention provides the gathered web that a kind of method produced according to the present invention makes, and said gathered web is a fish scale shape gathered web.
Adopt the inventive method to prepare gathered web, adopt hot and cold water alternately fabric to be carried out wrinkling processing, technology is simple; Easy to control; Adopt segmental dyeing, the phenomenon that dyeing quality is good, be not prone to dyeing flower adopts the inventive method to prepare gathered web; It is high to have improved finished product rate and production efficiency, constant product quality; Adopt the gathered web of the inventive method preparation, pattern presents the fish scale shape, and at the cloth cover distribution rule, cloth cover is active, has bionical effect, gives the pure and fresh aesthetic feeling of people, meets modern's aesthetic trend.
Description of drawings
Fig. 1 is gathered web embodiment one photo of the present invention;
Fig. 2 is gathered web embodiment two photos of the present invention;
Fig. 3 is the fabric processing process figure of gathered web embodiment of the present invention;
Fig. 4 is the gathered web embodiment of the present invention heating curve figure that dyes.
The specific embodiment
Below in conjunction with accompanying drawing and embodiment the present invention is done further description:
Shown in Fig. 1-4, its gauffer of the fabric of present embodiment is to be the fish scale shape that rule distributes, and the style nature has modern aesthetic feeling; Meet the esthetic requirement of contemporary people to fashion, its preparation technology comprises the steps: mainly that destarch, hot water cold water alternate cycles cloth are wrinkling, dyeing and protect width of cloth drying and shaping, during preparation, adopts the HTHP overflow dyeing machine; When destarch, adopt conventional desizing, preferred destarch speed is 20m/min-40m/min, then adopting the method for hot water cold water alternate cycles cloth is that cloth is wrinkling; At first the water in the dye vat is warmed up to 60-95 ℃, preferred 80-90 ℃ will be distributed into more than the interior circulation 5min of dye vat, and preferred 5-10min carries out hot water circuit, and then the hot water in the emptying dye vat also injects cold water immediately in dye vat; Carry out the cold water circulation again, the time priority of cold water circulation is selected 5-10min for use, can fully reduce the temperature of recirculated water like this; Also can enhance productivity, and make corrugation effect better, the water of then having arranged in the dye vat carries out temperature-gradient method dyeing; Elder generation's hot water advances cloth and carries out hot water circuit, carries out the cold water circulation again, and cloth shrinks; Can make cloth cover fold more, corrugation effect is more obvious, dyes by dyeing curve as shown in Figure 4 during dyeing; Be 1 by bath raio (the heavy ratio with water of cloth) at first: 10-1: 15 inject cold water in the dye vat, and the water in the dye vat is warmed up to normal temperature, add levelling agent, acid successively, and have dissolved the ACID DYES that finishes; The pH value of adjustment dyestuff stirs to 4.5-5, then carries out temperature-gradient method dyeing; First section is adopted low speed to heat up, and is warming up to 60 ℃-70 ℃, and second section is warming up to 80 ℃-90 ℃ with middling speed; The 3rd section at a high speed to be warming up to 100 ℃-115 ℃, then between 100 ℃-115 ℃, is incubated 30-60min, and fast cooling to 80 is ℃-90 ℃ again; Preferred low speed programming rate is 0.4 ℃ of-0.6 ℃/min; Preferred middling speed programming rate is 0.6 ℃ of-0.9 ℃/min; Preferred high speed programming rate is 1.0 ℃ of-1.2 ℃/min; Preferred fast cooling is 100-115 ℃/min, in order further to increase the degree of folding of cloth cover, carries out the cold water washing after the fast cooling discharge opeing; After the cold water washing, cloth is protected width of cloth drying and shaping, the bake out temperature of preferentially selecting for use is 100-140 ℃, and drying rate is 30-60m/min, under above-mentioned technological parameter, protects the persistence that width of cloth drying and shaping can keep gauffer, reduces the modification of gauffer;
After described guarantor's width of cloth drying and shaping step, surpass waterproof and protect width of cloth drying and shaping; Preferred setting temperature is 160 ℃-180 ℃; Protecting width of cloth typing speed is 40-60m/min, and protecting width of cloth drying and shaping with this understanding can increase the typing effect, increases the fastness of typing.Surpass waterproof guarantor width of cloth drying and shaping after the width of cloth drying and shaping and can obtain to have the gathered web of waterproof effect.Ultra waterproof typing prescription can be: water-fast ultra waterproofing agent 40-100g/l, bridging agent 5-10g/l, bleeding agent 1-3g/l, the citric acid 1-3g/l (pH transfers to 4.5-5) of washing; Setting process: temperature 160-180 ℃, speed 40-60m/min* protects the width of cloth, surpasses the waterproof typing with this understanding, the cloth dimensionally stable of processing gained, and keep the original fold style of cloth cover.
In above-mentioned technology, destarch, guarantor's width of cloth drying and shaping and ultra waterproof are protected width of cloth drying and shaping and all can be adopted conventional production technology.
Above-mentioned process conditions are suitable for any fabric, are more suitable for the wrinkling processing in continuous synthetic fibre fabric, and corrugation effect is superior to other fabric.The dyeing heating curve all adapts to all ACID DYES combinations.
Select the polyamide fibre plain cloth for use, adopt the HTHP overflow dyeing machine to carry out post processing as follows:
Destarch is carried out ready cloth destarch and is dried clot, destarch speed 20m/min;
Get cloth and beat look;
Hot water cold water alternate cycles: the water in the dye vat is warmed up to 60 ℃; To be distributed into the interior circulation 5-10min of dye vat and carry out hot water circuit; Then the hot water in the emptying dye vat also injects cold water immediately in dye vat, carries out the cold water circulation again, and the time priority of cold water circulation is selected 5-10min for use;
ACID DYES is put into proportion container, and 60-95 ℃ of water stirs in right amount in addition, fully dissolves until dyestuff, subsequent use;
Open the HTHP overflow dyeing machine, adjust the machine technology that dyes easily: nozzle diameter 70mm-90mm, gap 3.0-5.0mm; 2.0-3.0kg, cloth wheel speed 350-450m/min, cloth wheel moment 40-50% are pressed in spray; By-pass is transferred to " 0 ", and (cloth is heavy: be 1 water): 10-1: 15 for bath raio.Water is warmed up to 25 ℃, adds dye leveller, acid, dyestuff successively, the pH value of adjustment dyestuff is to 4.5-5; Speed with 0.5 ℃/min is warming up to 60 ℃; Then the speed with 0.8 ℃/min is warming up to 80 ℃, and the speed with 1.0 ℃/min is warming up to 110 ℃ again, under 110 ℃ temperature, is incubated 45min; Speed with 3 ℃/min is cooled to 90 ℃ again, carries out the cold water washing behind the fast cooling;
To dye good cloth and dry with setting machine, the speed with 30m/min under 100 ℃ temperature is protected width of cloth drying and shaping.
Select cotton TWILL CLOTH for use, carry out post processing as follows:
Destarch is carried out ready cloth destarch and is dried clot, destarch speed 30m/min;
Get cloth and beat look;
Hot water cold water alternate cycles: the water in the dye vat is warmed up to 95 ℃; To be distributed into the interior circulation 5-10min of dye vat and carry out hot water circuit; Then the hot water in the emptying dye vat also injects cold water immediately in dye vat, carries out the cold water circulation again, and the time priority of cold water circulation is selected 5-10min for use;
Dyeing: water is warmed up to 30 ℃; Add dye leveller, acid, dyestuff successively, the pH value of adjustment dyestuff is warming up to 65 ℃ to 4.5-5 with the speed of 0.4 ℃/min; Then the speed with 0.9 ℃/min is warming up to 90 ℃; Speed with 1.1 ℃/min is warming up to 110 ℃ again, under 110 ℃ temperature, is incubated 45min, and the speed with 110 ℃/min is cooled to 70 ℃ again;
To dye good cloth and dry with setting machine, the speed with 60m/min under 140 ℃ temperature is protected width of cloth drying and shaping.
Other is with embodiment 1.
Destarch is carried out ready cloth destarch and is dried clot, destarch speed 40m/min;
Hot water cold water alternate cycles: the water in the dye vat is warmed up to 80 ℃; To be distributed into the interior circulation 5-10min of dye vat and carry out hot water circuit; Then the hot water in the emptying dye vat also injects cold water immediately in dye vat, carries out the cold water circulation again, and the time priority of cold water circulation is selected 5-10min for use;
Dyeing: water is warmed up to 20 ℃; Add dye leveller, acid, dyestuff successively, the pH value of adjustment dyestuff is warming up to 65 ℃ to 4.5-5 with the speed of 0.6 ℃/min; Then the speed with 0.9 ℃/min is warming up to 90 ℃; Speed with 1.1 ℃/min is warming up to 110 ℃ again, under 110 ℃ temperature, is incubated 45min, and the speed with 110 ℃/min is cooled to 70 ℃ again;
To dye good cloth and dry with setting machine, the speed with 40m/min under 125 ℃ temperature is protected width of cloth drying and shaping, is 160 ℃ with setting temperature, and protecting width of cloth typing speed is that 60m/min surpasses waterproof guarantor width of cloth drying and shaping.
Other is with embodiment 1.
In the hot water cold water alternate cycles: the water in the dye vat is warmed up to 90 ℃.
With setting temperature is 180 ℃, and protecting width of cloth typing speed is that 40m/min surpasses waterproof guarantor width of cloth drying and shaping.
Other is with embodiment 1.
Claims (6)
1. the preparation method of a gathered web; It is characterized in that: comprise that destarch, hot water cold water alternate cycles cloth are wrinkling, dyeing and protect width of cloth drying and shaping; Described hot water cold water alternate cycles cloth is wrinkling to be: the water in the dye vat is warmed up to 70-90 ℃, will be distributed into and circulates in the dye vat more than 5 minutes, draining is also injected cold water immediately in dye vat; Recirculation 5-10min has arranged water in the dye vat; Described dyeing is the dyeing that heats up stage by stage: the bath raio by the heavy ratio with water of cloth is 1:10-1:15 is injected cold water in the dye vat, and the water in the dye vat is warmed up to normal temperature, adds levelling agent, acid successively and has dissolved the ACID DYES that finishes; The pH value of adjustment dyestuff stirs to 4.5-5, then goes into through wrinkling cloth and carries out temperature-gradient method dyeing; First section is warming up to 60 ℃-70 ℃ with low speed; Second section is warming up to 80 ℃-90 ℃ with middling speed, and the 3rd section to be warming up to 100 ℃-115 ℃ at a high speed, then between 100 ℃-115 ℃, is incubated 30-60min; Again with discharge opeing behind the fast cooling to 80 ℃-90 ℃; Carry out the cold water washing after the fast cooling discharge opeing, the programming rate that described low speed heats up is 0.4 ℃ of-0.6 ℃/min, and the programming rate that described middling speed heats up is 0.6 ℃ of-0.9 ℃/min; The programming rate that described high speed heats up is 1.0 ℃-1.2 ℃, and the cooling rate of described fast cooling is 1.5 ℃ of-3 ℃/min.
2. preparation method as claimed in claim 1 is characterized in that: destarch speed is 20m/min-40m/min in the described destarch step.
3. preparation method as claimed in claim 1 is characterized in that: in described guarantor's width of cloth baking type step, bake out temperature is 100-140 ℃, and drying rate is 30-60m/min.
4. preparation method as claimed in claim 1 is characterized in that: after described guarantor's width of cloth drying and shaping step, surpass waterproof and protect width of cloth drying and shaping.
5. preparation method as claimed in claim 4 is characterized in that: setting temperature is 160 ℃-180 ℃ in the described ultra waterproof guarantor width of cloth drying and shaping, and protecting width of cloth typing speed is 40-60m/min.
6. gathered web, it is characterized in that: said gathered web makes according to one of claim 1-5 each item described preparation method, and said gathered web is a fish scale shape gathered web.
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| CN2010105785344A CN102011297B (en) | 2010-12-08 | 2010-12-08 | Crimped fabric and preparation method thereof |
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| CN2010105785344A CN102011297B (en) | 2010-12-08 | 2010-12-08 | Crimped fabric and preparation method thereof |
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| CN110055768A (en) * | 2019-05-09 | 2019-07-26 | 东丽酒伊织染（南通）有限公司 | A kind of preparation method with naturally irregular texture fabric |
| CN111118777A (en) * | 2020-01-15 | 2020-05-08 | 东丽酒伊织染（南通）有限公司 | Preparation method of chinlon wrinkling processing fabric |
| CN112195657A (en) * | 2020-09-30 | 2021-01-08 | 康帝雅高档面料（苏州）有限公司 | Bright wrinkling color-coated fabric and manufacturing process thereof |
| CN113550042A (en) * | 2021-08-10 | 2021-10-26 | 常州市广纺纺织品有限公司 | Lasting crease style woven fabric and production method thereof |
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