CN102011297A - Crimped fabric and preparation method thereof - Google Patents

Crimped fabric and preparation method thereof Download PDF

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Publication number
CN102011297A
CN102011297A CN 201010578534 CN201010578534A CN102011297A CN 102011297 A CN102011297 A CN 102011297A CN 201010578534 CN201010578534 CN 201010578534 CN 201010578534 A CN201010578534 A CN 201010578534A CN 102011297 A CN102011297 A CN 102011297A
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cloth
speed
preparation
width
cold water
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CN102011297B (en
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沈卫锋
徐丽亚
魏辉
王成翔
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Zhejiang Taihua New Materials Group Co ltd
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Taihua Hi-Tech Dyeing & Finishing (jiaxing) Co Ltd
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Abstract

The invention discloses a preparation method of a crimped fabric and the crimped fabric. The preparation method comprises the following steps of: desizing, alternately circulating hot water and cold water to crimp cloth, dyeing, preserving amplitude, drying and shaping. The crimped fabric is prepared by the method; the fabric crimped by using the hot water and cold water alternately; the method is simple and can be easily controlled; by adopting section dyeing, the dyeing quality is high and the phenomenon of uneven dyeing is avoided; and by the preparation method of the crimped fabric, the product yield is improved, the production efficiency is high, the product quality is stable and the fabric patterns are in fish scale shapes. The crimped patterns of the fabric are in fish scale shapes, are regularly distributed on cloth surfaces, are active on the cloth surface, have bionic effects, give a fresh aesthetic feeling to people and meet the aesthetic tendency of modern people.

Description

Gathered web and preparation method thereof
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of preparation method and gathered web of gathered web.
Background technology
At present, gathered web has become the new lover of garment market, but the gauffer dyeing and weaving thing on the present market, the gauffer spirit is random, and no specific shape is random big, and more inflexible, and style is few, influences the rich of fabric, has reduced aesthetic property.Simultaneously but the method complexity of production gathered web, product efficiency is low, as application number is 200810120070.5, name is called the Chinese invention patent application of gauffer garment material and production method thereof, a kind of gauffer garment material and production method thereof are disclosed, it is binding agent that this gauffer garment material adopts polyurethane adhesive, lining and heat shrink films are bonded together, then heat lining is shunk under the drive of heat shrink films, form predetermined design, again by press polish, typing, obtaining a surperficial part is bright piece face, part color and luster is than the phaeodium face and have the gauffer garment material of gauffer texture, this garment material be owing to need adopt binding agent that lining is bonded on the heat shrink films when producing, the processing technology complexity, product efficiency is low, the damage of using binding agent also to bring the environmental protection aspect.
In addition, the processing technology that present wrinkle is dyed cloth only is just to go dyeing after the destarch, is rapidly heated, fast cooling, and it is unusual to be easy to occur dyeing flower etc. for sensitive colors, thereby has reduced the quality of product, and causes the unnecessary wasting of resources.
Summary of the invention
The objective of the invention is at existing gathered web complicated process of preparation, the stiff deficiency of colored shape prepared, a kind of gauffer uniqueness is provided, has the preparation method of gathered web of bio-imitability, activity and the gathered web that this method prepares concurrently.
The objective of the invention is to be achieved through the following technical solutions:
One of purpose of the present invention provides a kind of preparation method of gathered web, comprises that destarch, hot water cold water alternate cycles cloth are wrinkling, dyeing and protect width of cloth drying and shaping;
Preferably, described hot water cold water alternate cycles cloth is wrinkling to be: the water in the dye vat is warmed up to 70-90 ℃, will be distributed into and circulates in the dye vat more than 5 minutes, draining is also injected cold water immediately in dye vat, and recirculation 5-10min has arranged water in the dye vat;
Preferably, described dyeing is to heat up stage by stage dyeing: by the bath raio ratio of water (the cloth weight with) is 1: 10-1: 15 inject cold water in the dye vat, water in the dye vat is warmed up to normal temperature, add levelling agent successively, acid, reach and dissolved the ACID DYES that finishes, the pH value of adjusting dyestuff is to 4.5-5, stir, then go into through wrinkling cloth and carry out temperature-gradient method dyeing, first section is warming up to 60 ℃-70 ℃ with low speed, second section is warming up to 80 ℃-90 ℃ with middling speed, the 3rd section at a high speed to be warming up to 100 ℃-115 ℃, then is incubated 30-60min between 100 ℃-115 ℃, again with discharge opeing behind the fast cooling to 80 ℃-90 ℃;
Preferably, the programming rate that described low speed heats up is 0.4 ℃ of-0.6 ℃/min, the programming rate that described middling speed heats up is 0.6 ℃ of-0.9 ℃/min, and the programming rate that described high speed heats up is 1.0 ℃-1.2 ℃, and the cooling rate of described fast cooling is 1.5 ℃ of-3 ℃/min;
Preferably, carry out the cold water washing after the fast cooling discharge opeing;
Preferably, destarch speed is 20m/min-40m/min in the described destarch step;
Preferably, in described guarantor's width of cloth drying and shaping step, bake out temperature is 100-140 ℃, and drying rate is 30-60m/min;
Preferably, after described guarantor's width of cloth drying and shaping step, surpass waterproof and protect width of cloth drying and shaping;
Preferably, setting temperature is 160 ℃-180 ℃ in the typing of the described super waterproof guarantor width of cloth, and protecting width of cloth typing speed is 40-60m/min.
Preferably, described destarch step is: ready cloth is carried out destarch and dries clot, and destarch speed is 20m/min-40m/min; Described staining procedure is: dyestuff is an ACID DYES, and dyestuff is put into proportion container, and 60-95 ℃ of water stirs in right amount in addition, fully dissolves standby until dyestuff; Water in the dye vat is warmed up to 80-90 ℃, go into cloth circulation 5-10min draining and advance cold water immediately to go in the dye vat, it is 1 that recirculation 5-10min has arranged behind the water by bath raio: 10-1: 15 cold water advance in the dye vat, be warmed up to normal temperature, add levelling agent successively, acid reaches has dissolved the ACID DYES that finishes, the pH value of adjusting dyestuff is to 4.5-5, speed with 0.4 ℃ of-0.6 ℃/min is warming up to 60 ℃-70 ℃, then the speed with 0.6 ℃ of-0.9 ℃/min is warming up to 80 ℃-90 ℃, speed with 1.0 ℃ of-1.2 ℃/min is warming up to 100 ℃-115 ℃ again, between 100 ℃-115 ℃, be incubated 30-60min, speed with 1.5 ℃ of-3 ℃/min is cooled to 70 ℃-90 ℃ again, carries out the cold water washing behind the fast cooling; Described guarantor's width of cloth drying and shaping step is: protect width of cloth oven dry with the speed of 30-60m/min under 100-140 ℃ temperature;
Preferably, surpass waterproof and protect width of cloth drying and shaping after described guarantor's width of cloth drying and shaping step, setting temperature is 160 ℃-180 ℃ in the typing of the described super waterproof guarantor width of cloth, and protecting width of cloth typing speed is 40-60m/min;
Preferably, after described guarantor's width of cloth drying and shaping step, surpass waterproof and protect width of cloth drying and shaping.
Another object of the present invention provides the gathered web that a kind of method produced according to the present invention makes, and described gathered web is a fish scale shape gathered web.
Adopt the inventive method to prepare gathered web, adopt hot and cold water alternately fabric to be carried out wrinkling processing, technology is simple, easy to control, adopt segmental dyeing, the phenomenon that dyeing quality is good, be not prone to dyeing flower adopts the inventive method to prepare gathered web, finished product rate and production efficiency height have been improved, constant product quality; Adopt the gathered web of the inventive method preparation, pattern presents the fish scale shape, and at the cloth cover distribution rule, cloth cover is active, has bionical effect, gives the pure and fresh aesthetic feeling of people, meets modern's aesthetic trend.
Description of drawings
Fig. 1 is gathered web embodiment one photo of the present invention;
Fig. 2 is gathered web embodiment two photos of the present invention;
Fig. 3 is the fabric processing process figure of gathered web embodiment of the present invention;
Fig. 4 is the gathered web embodiment of the present invention heating curve figure that dyes.
The specific embodiment
The present invention will be further described below in conjunction with drawings and Examples:
Shown in Fig. 1-4, its gauffer of the fabric of present embodiment is to be the fish scale shape that rule distributes, the style nature, has modern aesthetic feeling, meet the esthetic requirement of contemporary people to fashion, its preparation technology mainly comprises the steps: destarch, hot water cold water alternate cycles cloth is wrinkling, dyeing and guarantor's width of cloth drying and shaping, during preparation, adopt the High Temperature High Pressure overflow dyeing machine, when destarch, adopt conventional desizing, preferred destarch speed is 20m/min-40m/min, then adopting the method for hot water cold water alternate cycles cloth is that cloth is wrinkling, at first the water in the dye vat is warmed up to 60-95 ℃, preferred 80-90 ℃ will be distributed into more than the interior circulation 5min of dye vat, preferred 5-10min carries out hot water circuit, then the hot water in the emptying dye vat also injects cold water immediately in dye vat, carry out the cold water circulation again, the time priority of cold water circulation is selected 5-10min for use, can fully reduce the temperature of recirculated water like this, also can enhance productivity, and make corrugation effect better, the water of then having arranged in the dye vat carries out temperature-gradient method dyeing, elder generation's hot water advances cloth and carries out hot water circuit, carry out the cold water circulation again, cloth shrinks, can make cloth cover fold more, corrugation effect is more obvious, dye by as shown in Figure 4 dyeing curve during dyeing, be 1 by bath raio (the heavy ratio with water of cloth) at first: 10-1: 15 inject cold water in the dye vat, water in the dye vat is warmed up to normal temperature, add levelling agent successively, acid, reach and dissolved the ACID DYES that finishes, the pH value of adjusting dyestuff is to 4.5-5, stir, then carry out temperature-gradient method dyeing, first section is adopted low speed to heat up, is warming up to 60 ℃-70 ℃, second section is warming up to 80 ℃-90 ℃ with middling speed, the 3rd section at a high speed to be warming up to 100 ℃-115 ℃, then is incubated 30-60min between 100 ℃-115 ℃, and fast cooling to 80 is ℃-90 ℃ again; Preferred low speed programming rate is 0.4 ℃ of-0.6 ℃/min, preferred middling speed programming rate is 0.6 ℃ of-0.9 ℃/min, preferred high speed programming rate is 1.0 ℃ of-1.2 ℃/min, preferred fast cooling is 100-115 ℃/min, in order further to increase the degree of folding of cloth cover, carry out the cold water washing after the fast cooling discharge opeing; After the cold water washing cloth is protected width of cloth drying and shaping, the bake out temperature of preferentially selecting for use is 100-140 ℃, and drying rate is 30-60m/min, protects the persistence that width of cloth drying and shaping can keep gauffer under above-mentioned technological parameter, reduces the modification of gauffer;
After described guarantor's width of cloth drying and shaping step, surpass waterproof and protect width of cloth drying and shaping, preferred setting temperature is 160 ℃-180 ℃, protecting width of cloth typing speed is 40-60m/min, and protecting width of cloth drying and shaping with this understanding can increase the typing effect, increases the fastness of typing.Surpass waterproof guarantor width of cloth drying and shaping after the width of cloth drying and shaping and can obtain to have the gathered web of waterproof effect.Super waterproof typing prescription can be: water-fast super waterproofing agent 40-100g/l, bridging agent 5-10g/l, bleeding agent 1-3g/l, the citric acid 1-3g/l (pH transfers to 4.5-5) of washing; Setting process: temperature 160-180 ℃, speed 40-60m/min* protects the width of cloth, surpasses the waterproof typing with this understanding, the cloth dimensionally stable of processing gained, and keep the original fold style of cloth cover.
In above-mentioned technology, destarch, guarantor's width of cloth drying and shaping and super waterproof are protected width of cloth drying and shaping and all can be adopted conventional production technology.
Above-mentioned process conditions are suitable for any fabric, are more suitable for the wrinkling processing in continuous synthetic fibre fabric, and corrugation effect is better than other fabric.The dyeing heating curve all adapts to all ACID DYES combinations.
Embodiment 1
Select the polyamide fibre plain cloth for use, adopt the High Temperature High Pressure overflow dyeing machine to carry out post processing as follows:
Destarch is carried out ready cloth destarch and is dried clot, destarch speed 20m/min;
Get cloth and beat look;
Hot water cold water alternate cycles: the water in the dye vat is warmed up to 60 ℃, to be distributed into the interior circulation 5-10min of dye vat and carry out hot water circuit, then the hot water in the emptying dye vat also injects cold water immediately in dye vat, carries out the cold water circulation again, and the time priority of cold water circulation is selected 5-10min for use;
ACID DYES is put into proportion container, and 60-95 ℃ of water stirs in right amount in addition, fully dissolves until dyestuff, standby;
Open the High Temperature High Pressure overflow dyeing machine, adjust the machine technology that dyes easily: nozzle diameter 70mm-90mm, gap 3.0-5.0mm, 2.0-3.0kg, cloth wheel speed 350-450m/min, cloth wheel moment 40-50% are pressed in spray, by-pass is transferred to " 0 ", and (cloth is heavy: be 1 water): 10-1: 15 for bath raio.Water is warmed up to 25 ℃, add dye leveller, acid, dyestuff successively, the pH value of adjusting dyestuff is to 4.5-5, speed with 0.5 ℃/min is warming up to 60 ℃, then the speed with 0.8 ℃/min is warming up to 80 ℃, and the speed with 1.0 ℃/min is warming up to 110 ℃ again, is incubated 45min under 110 ℃ temperature, speed with 3 ℃/min is cooled to 90 ℃ again, carries out the cold water washing behind the fast cooling;
To dye good cloth and dry with setting machine, the speed with 30m/min under 100 ℃ temperature is protected width of cloth drying and shaping.
Embodiment 2
Select cotton TWILL CLOTH for use, carry out post processing as follows:
Destarch is carried out ready cloth destarch and is dried clot, destarch speed 30m/min;
Get cloth and beat look;
Hot water cold water alternate cycles: the water in the dye vat is warmed up to 95 ℃, to be distributed into the interior circulation 5-10min of dye vat and carry out hot water circuit, then the hot water in the emptying dye vat also injects cold water immediately in dye vat, carries out the cold water circulation again, and the time priority of cold water circulation is selected 5-10min for use;
Dyeing: water is warmed up to 30 ℃, add dye leveller, acid, dyestuff successively, the pH value of adjusting dyestuff is to 4.5-5, speed with 0.4 ℃/min is warming up to 65 ℃, then the speed with 0.9 ℃/min is warming up to 90 ℃, speed with 1.1 ℃/min is warming up to 110 ℃ again, is incubated 45min under 110 ℃ temperature, and the speed with 110 ℃/min is cooled to 70 ℃ again;
To dye good cloth and dry with setting machine, the speed with 60m/min under 140 ℃ temperature is protected width of cloth drying and shaping.
Other is with embodiment 1.
Embodiment 3
Destarch is carried out ready cloth destarch and is dried clot, destarch speed 40m/min;
Hot water cold water alternate cycles: the water in the dye vat is warmed up to 80 ℃, to be distributed into the interior circulation 5-10min of dye vat and carry out hot water circuit, then the hot water in the emptying dye vat also injects cold water immediately in dye vat, carries out the cold water circulation again, and the time priority of cold water circulation is selected 5-10min for use;
Dyeing: water is warmed up to 20 ℃, add dye leveller, acid, dyestuff successively, the pH value of adjusting dyestuff is to 4.5-5, speed with 0.6 ℃/min is warming up to 65 ℃, then the speed with 0.9 ℃/min is warming up to 90 ℃, speed with 1.1 ℃/min is warming up to 110 ℃ again, is incubated 45min under 110 ℃ temperature, and the speed with 110 ℃/min is cooled to 70 ℃ again;
To dye good cloth and dry with setting machine, the speed with 40m/min under 125 ℃ temperature is protected width of cloth drying and shaping, is 160 ℃ with setting temperature, and protecting width of cloth typing speed is that 60m/min surpasses waterproof guarantor width of cloth drying and shaping.
Other is with embodiment 1.
Embodiment 4
In the hot water cold water alternate cycles: the water in the dye vat is warmed up to 90 ℃.
With setting temperature is 180 ℃, and protecting width of cloth typing speed is that 40m/min surpasses waterproof guarantor width of cloth drying and shaping.
Other is with embodiment 1.

Claims (12)

1. the preparation method of a gathered web is characterized in that: comprise that destarch, hot water cold water alternate cycles cloth are wrinkling, dyeing and protect width of cloth drying and shaping.
2. preparation method as claimed in claim 1, it is characterized in that: described hot water cold water alternate cycles cloth is wrinkling to be: the water in the dye vat is warmed up to 70-90 ℃, to be distributed in the dye vat circulates more than 5 minutes, draining is also injected cold water immediately in dye vat, recirculation 5-10min has arranged water in the dye vat.
3. preparation method as claimed in claim 1 or 2, it is characterized in that: described dyeing is to heat up stage by stage dyeing: by the bath raio ratio of water (the cloth weight with) is 1: 10-1: 15 inject cold water in the dye vat, water in the dye vat is warmed up to normal temperature, add levelling agent successively, acid reaches has dissolved the ACID DYES that finishes, the pH value of adjusting dyestuff is to 4.5-5, stir, then go into through wrinkling cloth and carry out temperature-gradient method dyeing, first section is warming up to 60 ℃-70 ℃ with low speed, second section is warming up to 80 ℃-90 ℃ with middling speed, the 3rd section to be warming up to 100 ℃-115 ℃ at a high speed, then between 100 ℃-115 ℃, be incubated 30-60min, again with discharge opeing behind the fast cooling to 80 ℃-90 ℃.
4. preparation method as claimed in claim 3, it is characterized in that: the programming rate that described low speed heats up is 0.4 ℃ of-0.6 ℃/min, the programming rate that described middling speed heats up is 0.6 ℃ of-0.9 ℃/min, the programming rate that described high speed heats up is 1.0 ℃-1.2 ℃, and the cooling rate of described fast cooling is 1.5 ℃ of-3 ℃/min.
5. preparation method as claimed in claim 3 is characterized in that: carry out the cold water washing after the fast cooling discharge opeing.
6. preparation method as claimed in claim 1 is characterized in that: destarch speed is 20m/min-40m/min in the described destarch step.
7. preparation method as claimed in claim 1 is characterized in that: in described guarantor's width of cloth drying and shaping step, bake out temperature is 100-140 ℃, and drying rate is 30-60m/min.
8. preparation method as claimed in claim 1 is characterized in that: surpass waterproof and protect width of cloth drying and shaping after described guarantor's width of cloth drying and shaping step.
9. preparation method as claimed in claim 8 is characterized in that: setting temperature is 160 ℃-180 ℃ in the described super waterproof guarantor width of cloth drying and shaping, and protecting width of cloth typing speed is 40-60m/min.
10. preparation method as claimed in claim 1 or 2 is characterized in that:
Described destarch step is: ready cloth is carried out destarch and dries clot, and destarch speed is 20m/min-40m/min;
Described staining procedure is: dyestuff is an ACID DYES, and dyestuff is put into proportion container, and 60-95 ℃ of water stirs in right amount in addition, fully dissolves standby until dyestuff; Water in the dye vat is warmed up to 80-90 ℃, go into cloth circulation 5-10min draining and advance cold water immediately to go in the dye vat, it is 1 that recirculation 5-10min has arranged behind the water by bath raio: 10-1: 15 cold water advance in the dye vat, be warmed up to normal temperature, add levelling agent successively, acid reaches has dissolved the ACID DYES that finishes, the pH value of adjusting dyestuff is to 4.5-5, speed with 0.4 ℃ of-0.6 ℃/min is warming up to 60 ℃-70 ℃, then the speed with 0.6 ℃ of-0.9 ℃/min is warming up to 80 ℃-90 ℃, speed with 1.0 ℃ of-1.2 ℃/min is warming up to 100 ℃-115 ℃ again, between 100 ℃-115 ℃, be incubated 30-60min, speed with 1.5 ℃ of-3 ℃/min is cooled to 70 ℃-90 ℃ again, carries out the cold water washing behind the fast cooling;
Described guarantor's width of cloth drying and shaping step is: protect width of cloth oven dry with the speed of 30-60m/min under 100-140 ℃ temperature.
11. preparation method as claimed in claim 10, it is characterized in that: after described guarantor's width of cloth drying and shaping step, surpass waterproof and protect width of cloth drying and shaping, setting temperature is 160 ℃-180 ℃ in the typing of the described super waterproof guarantor width of cloth, and protecting width of cloth typing speed is 40-60m/min.
12. a gathered web is characterized in that: described gathered web makes according to one of the every described preparation method of claim 1-11, and described gathered web is a fish scale shape gathered web.
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CN110055768A (en) * 2019-05-09 2019-07-26 东丽酒伊织染(南通)有限公司 A kind of preparation method with naturally irregular texture fabric
CN111118777A (en) * 2020-01-15 2020-05-08 东丽酒伊织染(南通)有限公司 Preparation method of chinlon wrinkling processing fabric
CN112195657A (en) * 2020-09-30 2021-01-08 康帝雅高档面料(苏州)有限公司 Bright wrinkling color-coated fabric and manufacturing process thereof
CN113550042A (en) * 2021-08-10 2021-10-26 常州市广纺纺织品有限公司 Lasting crease style woven fabric and production method thereof

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN110055768A (en) * 2019-05-09 2019-07-26 东丽酒伊织染(南通)有限公司 A kind of preparation method with naturally irregular texture fabric
CN111118777A (en) * 2020-01-15 2020-05-08 东丽酒伊织染(南通)有限公司 Preparation method of chinlon wrinkling processing fabric
CN112195657A (en) * 2020-09-30 2021-01-08 康帝雅高档面料(苏州)有限公司 Bright wrinkling color-coated fabric and manufacturing process thereof
CN113550042A (en) * 2021-08-10 2021-10-26 常州市广纺纺织品有限公司 Lasting crease style woven fabric and production method thereof

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