KR20030085903A - Composition and Manufacturing Process of Skin-Care Containing Natural Ceramide, Phytosphingoshine, Colesterol and Lecithin - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE: A skin protecting composition containing natural ceramide, phytosphingosine, cholesterol, lecithin, glycerine, propylene glycol, water, phenoxy ethanol, isostearyl isostearate and triethanolamine in the shape of liquid crystal is provided. It has improved skin moisturizing and anti-inflammatory effects and is thus used as a cosmetic for improving dry skin and preventing aging or a skin external agent for alleviating atopic skin disease, edema, etc. CONSTITUTION: A liquid crystal base composition contains 1 to 15% by weight of cholesterol, 0.5 to 15.0% by weight of natural ceramide, 3 to 20% by weight of isostearyl isostearate, 5 to 20% by weight of propylene glycol, 0.5 to 13.0% by weight of lecithin, 5 to 50% by weight of phytosphingosine, 1 to 15% by weight of triethanolamine, 0 to 40% by weight of purified water, 0.4% by weight of phenoxy ethanol and 2.6% by weight of propylene glycol.

Description

Composition and manufacturing process for skin protection containing natural ceramide, phytosphingosine, cholesterol and lecithin {Composition and Manufacturing Process of Skin-Care Containing Natural Ceramide, Phytosphingoshine, Colesterol and Lecithin}

The present invention relates to a composition for skin protection containing natural ceramide, phytosphingosine, cholesterol and lecithin, specifically, natural ceramide, phytosphingosine, cholesterol, lecithin, glycerin, propylene glycol, water, phenoxyethanol, isostearyl It can be used as cosmetics or external skin preparations by improving the source moisturizing effect and anti-inflammatory effect by containing soothateate and triethanolamine, etc. In addition, it maximizes efficiency, reduces production costs and improves the stability of formulations in the manufacturing method. The present invention relates to a composition for protecting skin in the form of a liquid crystal gel and a method for preparing the same.

The skin is the most external organ of the body. It is an important organ that has various functions and has a great influence on appearance and image. The skin occupies about 3 to 5 kg in weight depending on the person. As it covers the outer surface of the body, it can be said to be the body that acts as the primary protective layer of the human body to the external environment, such as preventing evaporation of moisture, controlling the temperature, protecting the human body from external stimuli such as ultraviolet rays, and preventing the invasion of harmful microorganisms. In addition, the skin protects the skin from physical and chemical injuries, microorganisms such as bacteria and fungi, parasite infections, injuries caused by ultraviolet rays, and drying, and also acts as a neuronal receptor for various external stimuli and recognizes external antigens. It also serves to provide immune cells. In addition, hair, hands, and toenails are also subject to the use of cosmetics for dressing, including parts having a special form of keratinized structure that functions as a defense.

Such skin is composed of three layers of epidermis, dermis and subcutis, which are the most external and play the most important role in terms of skin aging. It is the epidermis that is the subject of the most intensive research.

The epidermis forms the stratum corneum, the stratum corneum, which acts as a protective barrier against various external stimuli such as drying, ultraviolet rays and other physical and chemical stimuli, and is composed of three layers of living cells, namely the base layer from below. It consists of a basal layer, a prickle layer, and a granular layer. These three layers move keratinocytes to the outer part of the skin to form keratin. It shows the degree of differentiation and keratinization according to the process, and new cells are formed in the basal layer, move to the epidermal layer and finally become keratinocytes and drop off.

The epidermis may cause changes in its function or structure due to the accumulation of external stimuli such as age, gender, specific site, continuous environmental stimulation, and increased stress, and through such changes, skin inflammation, aging, and other reactions may proceed. The function as a protective film falls.

In the epidermis, the components that make up the outermost stratum corneum are skin lipids, which are responsible for the skin's barrier function, which protects the skin from external harmful substances by controlling the division and differentiation of keratinocytes. It is an important function to prevent the leakage of substances in the body and to prevent evaporation of skin moisture.

Among the lipids in the skin, the major lipids responsible for the skin's barrier function are lipids produced by the differentiation of keratinocytes in the epidermis. These lipids fill the spaces between the differentiated corneocytes and provide the binding force between cells. This lipid is composed mainly of ceramides, cholesterol and free fatty acids, and has a composition with a small amount of phytosphingosine and sphingosine.

In order for the stratum corneum with the above characteristics to function normally and maintain a healthy state, it is necessary to contain at least 10 to 20% of moisture.As the amount of moisture in the stratum corneum decreases, skin flexibility decreases and hardens, ), While the function as a skin protective film is deteriorated, it is a major cause of loss of self-confidence by reading health and losing beauty.In the case of skin loss or unclear and rough skin, the amount of moisture in each layer is remarkable. It can be seen that the degradation.

These symptoms are closely related to the phospholipids that make up the stratum corneum. The stratum corneum components related to these symptoms include ceramides, cholesterol, free fatty acids, etc., which are about 40-65%, 10%, and Accounted for 25%.

As described above, keratinocytes of the stratum corneum are composed of a multi-layered structure, and these keratinocytes are firmly bound by lipids filling the intercellular gap, thereby inhibiting evaporation of moisture and harmful from the external environment. It performs an important biological function of preventing the invasion of substances.

The lipid components of epidermal cells change as new cells form in the basal layer and migrate to the superficial layer, whereby the newly formed cells in the basal layer move to the stratum corneum, causing biochemical changes inside the cells, which leads to changes in lipid content. As it moves to the stratum corneum, the phospholipid content decreases and a large amount of insoluble ceramide is accumulated to form an ideal lipid barrier.

Recently, the skin protection compositions for preventing and improving skin damage, alleviating skin inflammation, or moisturizing have been prepared by combining various substances extracted from natural products. The natural extracts used in the skin care composition for the purpose are skin extracts such as animal and vegetable extracts, natural polymers such as collagen, amino acids and vitamins or moisturizers such as glycerin and 1,3-butylene glycol, which help skin moisturizing effect. Etc. are used a lot.

However, in recent years, as the skin properties as described above have been revealed, by preparing a cosmetic composition containing the ceramide, cholesterol, phytosphingosine or fatty acids, which are the major components of the stratum corneum lipids to balance the composition of the skin lipid components to protect the skin Many compositions for treating cosmetic or skin diseases for imparting effects have been developed.

For example, Korean Patent Publication No. 2001-0044622 discloses a composition for treating skin problems comprising sphingolipid and the like, and Korean Patent Publication No. 1999-0078610 includes ceramide and sphingolipid as main components. A composition for skin protection has been disclosed, including Korean Patent Laid-Open Publication No. 2001-0011241, which also discloses a skin protective cream composition composed mainly of ceramide and sphingolipid, and Korean Patent Laid-Open Publication No. 2001-0011867. Cosmetic cream compositions containing red grape extracts with lipid components such as ceramides, cholesterol, fatty acids, phytosphingosine and lecithin have been disclosed.

These skin care compositions are being searched for various ways to maintain healthy skin and beauty as the elderly population increases, environmental stress increases, dermatology develops, and interest in skin increases with economic development. By preparing a skin lipid composition that improves the skin barrier function, it can be said to be a product of a research activity that was intended to enhance skin moisturizing effect, anti-wrinkle effect or anti-inflammatory effect.

However, until now, these natural ceramides (melting point; 93-103 ° C), cholesterol (melting point; 147-150 ° C), phytosphingosine (melting point; 93-103 ° C), and the like have high melting points. There were many difficulties in the emulsification process.

For example, all three of the above raw materials are those that have a melting point of more than 100 ° C. and are completely dissolved at temperatures of 20 to 70 ° C. above the emulsification temperature of 75 ± 5 ° C. used for the preparation of the skin composition. Since it cannot be dissolved together, there has been a hassle of taking a small amount of oil and dissolving it separately.

In particular, the use of natural ceramide was difficult to use a high content in the preparation of the emulsion, it has a disadvantage that it is easy to gelation, harden the surface harden, ceramide precipitation occurs as a change over time after manufacture .

The disadvantages of precipitation and surface hardening are the same in the case of using high content of cholesterol and phytosphingosine, but when natural ceramide, phytosphingosine and cholesterol are used together, the process of precipitation and gelation is much faster. will be. In addition, when each of the above raw materials are not completely dissolved, the emulsion has a problem that the emulsion stability is extremely poor and the effect is also poor.

In the case of ceramide, there was an attempt to solve the above problem by using Pseudoceramide derived from the same plant as the melting point of about 80 ℃, not natural ceramide in the form of ceramide. The affinity is remarkably low, so the effect in the composition for skin is weak. In addition, in the case of ceramide derived from animals, its use is prohibited due to the recent mad cow disease wave, so it cannot be used as a raw material applied to skin such as cosmetics, and the structure of ceramide derived from plants also exists on the skin. It is known that the natural ceramide structure is largely insufficient in terms of efficacy and effect.

The present invention is intended to overcome the problems of the prior art as described above, the purpose of which is not only excellent in preventing and improving skin damage, but also a composition for protecting the skin during the period of high melting point such as natural ceramide, cholesterol, phytosphingosine, etc. Effectively containing a large amount of effective ingredients that had difficulty in containing a large amount in the application to, moisturizing effect, anti-inflammatory effect is given, it is used as a cosmetic for moisturizing, improving dry skin, anti-aging, etc. It is to provide a composition for protecting skin that can be used as an external preparation for skin for the relief of sexual dermatitis, edema and the like.

To this end, the present invention, natural ceramide, phytosphingosine, cholesterol, lecithin, glycerin, propylene glycol, water, phenoxyethanol, isostearyl isostearate, triethanolamine and the like in a liquid crystal base form, rather than a general emulsified manufacturing method The present invention provides a skin protection composition and a method for producing the same, which greatly improve the skin-protective effect and formulation stability.

The present invention contains natural ceramide, phytosphingosine, cholesterol, lecithin, glycerin, propylene glycol, water, phenoxyethanol, isostearyl isostearate, triethanolamine, etc. to improve skin moisturizing effect, anti-inflammatory effect, etc. In addition, by using the liquid crystal base manufacturing method rather than the general emulsion manufacturing method in the manufacturing method, it contains a large amount of active ingredients that was difficult to contain a high content of the conventional liquid crystal gel to maximize the production efficiency, reduce the production cost and increase the stability of the formulation It relates to a skin care composition in the form of a base and a method for preparing the same.

The skin protection composition of the present invention contains a high content of lipid components such as natural ceramide, phytosphingosine, cholesterol, etc., which make up the stratum corneum, and has a moisturizing effect and an anti-inflammatory effect. It may be used as a cosmetic for or may be used as an external skin preparation for the relief of atopic dermatitis, edema and the like.

In the present invention, by taking a small amount of oil and dissolving it in advance, by containing an active ingredient such as natural ceramide, cholesterol, phytosphingosine, etc., which are effective lipid components added thereto, in the form of a liquid crystal base together with an aqueous component such as water, propylene glycol, and glycerin, It was possible to contain a high content, thereby broadening the range of applicable formulations in the composition of these active ingredients, and also facilitated the preparation method.

Specifically, in the present invention, the cosmetic composition is added to the conventional oil phase or the aqueous phase together with an emulsifier, respectively, and then by putting all the raw materials at once instead of a method of preparing an emulsion composition by strongly stirring with a homogenizer, etc. After warming up to the indicated temperature, after complete dissolution is confirmed, use a device such as an agimixer or disper, not a homogenizer, and gently stir and immediately enter the cooling to reduce the triethanethanamine or preservative at low temperatures. The liquid crystal gel base composition is first prepared and then a skin protection composition is prepared using the same.

The skin protection composition of the present invention contains an active ingredient-containing liquid crystal base such as natural ceramide in an amount of 0.001-50% by weight, preferably 5-10% by weight.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail as examples, examples and test examples using the same, but the present invention is not intended to be limited thereto.

The inventors of the present invention, while studying various methods for containing them in the form of liquid crystal gel base to easily contain a large amount of skin lipid components such as natural ceramide, cholesterol, phytosphingosine in the skin protection composition, the composition of the range as shown in Table 1 When the liquid crystal composition was best formed at the same time, even when the liquid crystal composition was applied to the product to 0.001-50% by weight, gelation did not proceed and it was confirmed that there was no change in the stability of the finished product.

Composition of liquid crystal base No. ingredient Content (% by weight) Prize One Cholesterol 1-15 A 2 Natural Ceramide 0.5-15.0 3 Isostearyl isostearate 3-20 4 Propylene glycol 5-20 5 Lecithin 0.5-13.0 6 glycerin 5-50 7 Phytosphingosine 1-15 8 Triethanolamine 0.5-5.0 B 9 Purified water 0-40 10 Phenoxyethanol (preservative) 0.4 C 11 Propylene glycol 2.6

Here, the content of each component is based on the entire liquid crystal base composition, and each phase of A, B and C is prepared by mixing each raw material in an orderly manner, and the liquid crystal base composition of the present invention is prepared as such A, B and C. It is prepared by the following method using a phase.

First, phase A and phase B are heated to 85-90 ° C., respectively, and after complete dissolution confirmation, phase B is introduced into phase A while mixing and mixing the disper at a slow speed of 600-1200 rpm.

After cooling this to 35-45 degreeC, the C phase which melt | dissolved the preservative in propylene glycol was added to this, and stirred, and it cooled again and completes a process at 30 degreeC, and manufactures a liquid-crystal base composition.

Example 1 Liquid Crystal Base I

According to the specific composition and preparation method of Table 2, in Example 1, the liquid crystal base composition I of the present invention was prepared. Here, the content of each component is based on the entire liquid crystal base composition, and each phase of A, B, and C is prepared by inputting and mixing each raw material in no order.

Composition of Liquid Crystal Base I No. ingredient Content (% by weight) Prize One Cholesterol 10 A 2 Natural Ceramide 8 3 Isostearyl isostearate 8 4 Propylene glycol 17 5 Lecithin One 6 glycerin 20.5 7 Phytosphingosine 3 8 Triethanolamine 4.5 B 9 Purified water 25 10 Phenoxyethanol (preservative) 0.4 C 11 Propylene glycol 2.6

The liquid crystal base I composition of the present invention was prepared by the following method using the composition of Table 2.

After phase A and phase B are warmed up to 85-90 ° C. to confirm complete dissolution, phase B is introduced into phase A while mixing and mixing the disper at a slow speed of 600-1200 rpm.

After cooling this to 35-45 degreeC, the C phase which melt | dissolved the preservative in propylene glycol was added to this, and stirred, and it cooled again and completes a process at 30 degreeC, and manufactures a liquid-crystal base composition.

Example 2. Liquid Crystal Base II

According to the specific composition and preparation method of Table 3, as Example 2, the liquid crystal base composition II of the present invention was prepared, wherein the content of each component is based on the entire liquid crystal base composition, A, B and C Each phase of is prepared by mixing each raw material in sequence. In this embodiment, the content of purified water is 0% by weight, thereby preparing a liquid crystal base composition containing no water.

Composition of Liquid Crystal Base II No. ingredient Content (% by weight) Prize One Cholesterol One A 2 Natural Ceramide 2 3 Isostearyl isostearate 17.5 4 Propylene glycol 18 5 Lecithin One 6 glycerin 45 7 Phytosphingosine 8 8 Triethanolamine 4.5 B 9 Purified water 0 10 Phenoxyethanol (preservative) 0.4 C 11 Propylene glycol 2.6

Using the composition of Table 3, the liquid crystal base II composition of the present invention was prepared by the following method.

After phase A and phase B are completely heated to 85-90 ° C., they are completely dissolved, and then phase B is introduced into phase A while mixing and mixing the disper at a slow speed of 600-1200 rpm.

After cooling this to 35-45 degreeC, the C phase which melt | dissolved the preservative in propylene glycol was added to this, and stirred, and it cooled again and completes a process at 30 degreeC, and manufactures a liquid-crystal base composition.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail as a skin protection composition prepared using the prepared liquid crystal base and a test example using the same, but the present invention is not intended to be limited thereto.

Example 3, 4: Preparation of Cream Composition

For the test example, using the liquid crystal base I and liquid crystal base II prepared in Examples 1 and 2 as Examples 3 and 4, according to the composition of the following Table 4 to prepare a skin protection composition of the cream formulation . Here, the content of each component is based on the entire skin care composition, and each phase of A and B is prepared by inputting and mixing each raw material in no order.

Composition of cream No. ingredient Content (% by weight) Prize Example 3 Example 4 Comparative example One Stearyl alcohol 8 8 8 A 2 Stearic acid 2 2 2 3 Stearic Acid Cholesterol 2 2 2 4 Squalane 4 4 4 5 2-octyldodecyl alcohol 6 6 6 6 Polyoxyethylene (25 mol addition) alcohol ester 3 3 3 7 Glyceryl Monostearic Acid Ester 2 2 2 8 LCD base I 5 - - C 9 LCD base II - 25 - 10 glycerin 5 5 5 B 11 Purified water To 100 To 100 To 100

Using the composition of Table 4 to prepare a cream skin protection composition of the present invention in the following manner.

1) The phase B is heated to 70 ° C.

2) After adding phase A to the heated phase B, it is emulsified uniformly with a homomixer, gradually cooled, and the phase C is added at 35-40 ° C. to uniformly disperse it with a homomixer. As an example a cream composition is prepared.

Test Example 1 Moisturizing Effect Test

Moisturizing effect was tested using the cream compositions prepared as Examples 3, 4 and Comparative Examples.

The creams of Examples 3, 4 and Comparative Example were applied to the faces of five subjects (women aged 20 to 35 years; mean age 25.8 years) twice a day for one month. After one month, the application was stopped and the water content of the skin was measured with a skin moisture meter (Corneometer CM820, C + K Co., Germany) at regular time intervals from just after washing to 3 hours. Here, 0 indicates that there is no water, and the closer to 140, the more water is present in the skin. The measurement results are shown in Table 5, and the evaluation value is the average of five values taken in the test.

Moisturizing effect test result Cream composition Moisture content Immediately after washing 30 minutes later 60 minutes later 90 minutes later 120 minutes later 180 minutes later Example 3 12 55 87 103 113 117 Example 4 13 60 99 112 125 129 Comparative example 10 35 80 95 107 105

As a result of the test, the application of Example 3 containing 5% of liquid crystal base I and the application of Example 4 containing 25% of liquid crystal base II were more remarkable than the application of the cream of the comparative example containing no liquid crystal base. It can be seen that the skin's moisturizing power has increased.

Test Example 2: Anti-inflammatory Effect Test

The anti-inflammatory effects as external skin preparations were tested using the cream compositions prepared as Examples 3, 4 and Comparative Examples.

Methods for evaluating anti-inflammatory effects include a method of measuring the inhibitory effect of hyaluronidase and an animal test method using guinea pigs. In the present invention, Example 3 is used as an animal test method using guinea pigs. The anti-inflammatory effects of, 4 and Comparative Example compositions were tested.

This experiment with guinea pigs uses Carrageenan to test the inhibitory effect on edema caused by immediate allergy. Carrageenan is a substance secreted by complement activation when allergens are introduced into the body, and activates mast cells to promote the release of histamine, an inflammation-inducing substance secreted from mast cells.

This study is based on the principle that when carrageenan is administered after application of an inhibitor, the inhibitor inhibits mast cell activation of carrageenan and thus inhibits histamine secretion, thereby controlling inflammation. Specifically, this test uses the principle that when carrageenan is administered to the mouse's foot, the thickness increases due to carrageenan-induced inflammation, but the thickness of the foot does not increase so much when the inhibitor is effective. Is as follows.

First, ICR mice were classified into three groups of five samples and five controls, respectively, and the sample group contained the cream compositions of Examples 3, 4 and Comparative Examples, which were edema suppressant samples, and distilled water was added to the control group. Apply twice per hour. One hour after application, carrageenan, a histamine glass-promoting substance, is injected subcutaneously. After 1 hour of injection, the thickness of the mouse foot was measured by a micro-thickness meter and compared with the thickness before application of the sample or distilled water. The results were calculated by the inhibition rate (%) according to the following formula and evaluated as the degree of inflammation inhibition.

Sample group thickness-thickness before sample group application

Edema Suppression Rate (%) = 100--------------------------------------- X 100

Control Thickness-Thickness Before Control Application

Anti-inflammatory effect test result Cream composition Edema inhibition rate (%) Example 3 25 Example 4 46 Comparative example 1.5

As a result of the test, the application of Example 3 containing 5% of liquid crystal base I and the application of Example 4 containing 25% of liquid crystal base II were more remarkable than the application of the cream of the comparative example containing no liquid crystal base. It can be seen that the anti-inflammatory effect is high.

On the other hand, the skin protection composition of the present invention can be used in cosmetics in the form of skin, lotion, essence, foam cleansing, shampoo, rinse, etc., in addition to the cream composition formulation of the above-described embodiment, which is generally used in external skin preparations, It can be said that it is obvious to a supplier.

By completing the present invention as described above, by containing natural ceramide, phytosphingosine, cholesterol, lecithin, glycerin, propylene glycol, water, phenoxyethanol, isostearyl isostearate, triethanolamine, etc. It is possible to provide a skin protection composition and a method for producing the same having an improved skin-improving effect.

In addition, by the completion of the present invention, by using a liquid crystal base manufacturing method rather than a general emulsion production method in the manufacturing method by containing a large amount of active ingredients that was difficult to contain a high content in the past maximized the production efficiency and reduced the production cost and stability of the formulation It was possible to provide a skin protection composition of the liquid crystal gel-based form and a method for producing the same.

In addition, since the present invention has been completed, it contains a high content of lipid components such as natural ceramide, phytosphingosine, cholesterol, etc., which make up the stratum corneum, and has a moisturizing effect and an anti-inflammatory effect. Skin protection compositions and methods for preparing the same can be provided that can be used as cosmetics for prevention and the like or as external skin preparations for the relief of atopic dermatitis, edema and the like.

Claims (4)

In the liquid crystal base composition, 1-15 wt% Cholesterol, 0.5-15.0 wt% Ceramide, 3-20 wt% Isostearyl Isostearate, 5-20 wt% Propylene Glycol, Lecithin (Lecithin) 0.5-13.0 wt%, Glycerin 5-50 wt%, Phytosphingosine 1-15 wt%, Triethanolamine 0.5-5.0 wt%, Purified water 0-40 wt%, Phenoxyethanol (preservative) 0.4 Characterized in that it comprises a weight percent and 2.6% by weight propylene glycol, Liquid crystal base composition. In the manufacturing method of the liquid crystal base composition, Phase A, a mixture of cholesterol, natural ceramide, isostearyl isostearate, propylene glycol, lecithin, glycerin and phytosphingosine, phase B, a mixture of triethanolamine and purified water, respectively After dissolving by heating at -90 ° C, the disper was operated at 600-1200rpm to mix, and the phase B was added to phase A while mixing. After cooling to 35-45 ° C, phenoxyethanol was dissolved in propylene glycol. It is characterized in that the prepared by stirring the phase C, and then cooled again to complete the process at 30 ℃, Method for producing a liquid crystal base composition. The method of claim 2, Based on the total liquid crystal base composition, 1-15% by weight of cholesterol (Cholesterol), 0.5-15.0% by weight of natural ceramide (Ceramide), 3-20% by weight of isostearyl isostearate, 5-20 by weight of propylene glycol % By weight, 0.5-13.0% by weight of Lecithin, 5-50% by weight of Glycerin, 1-15% by weight of Phytosphingosine, 0.5-5.0% by weight of Triethanolamine, 0-40% by weight of purified water, Phenoxyethanol (preservative) is characterized in that the content of 0.4% by weight, propylene glycol is used in a content of 2.6% by weight, Method for producing a liquid crystal base composition. In the composition for skin protection, 1-15 wt% Cholesterol, 0.5-15.0 wt% Ceramide, 3-20 wt% Isostearyl Isostearate, 5-20 wt% Propylene Glycol, Lecithin (Lecithin) 0.5-13.0 wt%, Glycerin 5-50 wt%, Phytosphingosine 1-15 wt%, Triethanolamine 0.5-5.0 wt%, Purified water 0-40 wt%, Phenoxyethanol (preservative) 0.4 Characterized in that the liquid crystal base composition comprising a weight% and 2.6% by weight of propylene glycol in an amount of 0.001-50% by weight based on the total skin protection composition, Skin protection composition.