KR100396476B1 - Cream Composition For Cosmetics - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention is a cosmetic cream composition of the skin composition of the stratum corneum by strengthening the function of the skin barrier of the stratum corneum by properly mixing the lipid composition, such as ceramide, cholesterol, fatty acids, phytospinosine, lecithin and red grape extract powder that is a factor that prevents harmful oxygen It's about development.

As described above, the cream composition prepared by the present invention has no side effects and excellent skin permeability and moisturizing power compared to a product in which ceramide is mixed with the skin cell membrane and other compositions. In addition, the cream composition of the present invention is not only excellent in the inhibitory effect on the skin microorganisms, but also effective in improving wrinkles, and thus may be applied to cosmetic cosmetics. It has also been shown to be effective in anti-inflammatory treatments such as UV-induced heat erythema and infrared-induced skin erythema.

Description

Cream Composition For Cosmetics

The present invention relates to a cosmetic cream composition for enhancing the skin barrier function, and more particularly to a cosmetic cream composition for enhancing the skin barrier function of the stratum corneum by properly mixing the skin lipid composition and red wine extract.

Skin is the largest organ in the body and has the function of primarily protecting internal organs from external moisture or dry conditions. The basic condition for the survival of living things on Earth is that the skin has a barrier that functions to prevent excessive moisture loss from the outside. In mammals, this barrier is formed in the stratum corneum, the outermost layer of the envelope. As keratinocytes differentiate from the basal layer, many lipids are synthesized and these lipids are released into the extracellular shell to form a lipid lamellar bilayer. The lipid bilayer in the stratum corneum consists mainly of ceramide 40%, cholesterol 20 ~ 25%, fatty acid 20 ~ 25%. Fatty acids also include linoleic acid, an essential fatty acid. It is also known that the stratum corneum lipid contains a very small amount of phytosphingosine, one of the ceramide precursors (Precursor). Phytospinosine is present in a small amount of less than 1% by weight in the stratum corneum of the stratum corneum, but it has antimicrobial activity, which contributes to maintaining the normal healthy state of the skin from microorganisms, and is a bioactive substance that serves as a precursor of ceramide formation. Phytospinosine is known to act as an antibiotic that keeps our skin normal, exposed to numerous external microorganisms, and has been proven to have anti-inflammatory effects.

These lipids fill the space between keratinocytes and form a lipid bilayer, acting as a skin protection barrier that regulates the evaporation of water through the skin. Therefore, when a problem occurs in the lipid bilayer, a skin disease accompanied by severe dryness may occur. Since ultraviolet rays or harmful living environments disrupt the skin barrier function, various functional materials have been developed to prevent this.

As the composition of lipids constituting the cell membrane of the stratum corneum is known to be associated with various skin diseases, researches on restoring the cell membrane by supplying the ceramide, cholesterol, and fatty acids, which are the main components of the cell membrane, to the damaged skin have been actively conducted.

However, due to the hydrophobicity of ceramide and phytospingosin known as the most important ingredients for skin barrier function, there was a problem in low solubility and crystallization stability. In addition, the use of a solvent such as propylene glycol / ethanol, isocetic alcohol is irritating to the skin has caused a lot of problems in product development.

The present invention is a cosmetic cream composition of the skin composition of the stratum corneum by strengthening the function of the skin barrier of the stratum corneum by properly mixing the lipid composition, such as ceramide, cholesterol, fatty acids, phytospinosine, lecithin and red grape extract powder that is a factor that prevents harmful oxygen It's about development.

1 is a graph showing the inhibitory effect on the skin microorganisms of the present invention cream composition

2 is a graph showing the wrinkle improvement effect of the present invention cream composition

3 is a graph showing the effect of the cream composition of the present invention on UV-induced skin erythema. FIG. 4 is a graph measuring the skin moisture evaporation amount of the cream composition of the present invention.

5 is a graph showing the free radical killing effect of red grape powder

The cream composition of the present invention is composed of the ceramide, cholesterol, fatty acids, phytospinosine, the main component of the skin endothelial cell membrane, lecithin and red grape extract, which are the main components between the stratum corneum cells.

In the present invention, these cell membrane lipids were used by mixing ceramide: cholestol: fatty acid in a composition ratio of 2: 1: 1. The fatty acid contained linoleic acid, an essential fatty acid, and a natural red wine extract was used to prevent oxidation.

In addition, phytospingosin, which is effective in protecting skin from microorganisms and alleviating skin irritation, was used as a component of the cream composition of the present invention.

However, ceramide and phytospingosin, which are known as the most important ingredients for skin barrier function, have low solubility, which makes it difficult to develop products having excellent stability, usability and permeability.

In order to solve this problem, the present inventors have conducted a long-term study to develop a liquid crystal cream composition (CRD-1) using lecithin having excellent skin affinity and no side effects.

Ceramide (Ceramide) used in the present invention is substituted with oleic acid or stearic acid in the amine group of phytospingosin. The amount of ceramide used to produce a stable emulsion is preferably used in 1 to 10% by weight, preferably 5 to 10% by weight of the cream composition.

Cholesterol is used in the range of 40 to 60% by weight of ceramide, and is used in the range of 0.5 to 5% by weight based on the cream composition of the present invention.

As the fatty acid used in the present invention, a mixture of stearic acid, oleic acid and linoleic acid in a ratio of 1: 1: 1 was used. Fatty acid is preferably used in an amount of 0.5 to 5% by weight of the cream composition of the present invention.

Phytospinosine used in the present invention was used alone or in the form of an organic salt by neutralization with hydrogen chloride (Hcl) in order to increase solubility and emulsification. In the neutralization method, phytospingosin is dissolved in ethanol and then an equivalent amount of concentrated hydrochloric acid is added slowly. After stirring for 30 minutes at room temperature, ethanol was removed under reduced pressure and acetone was added to the residue, and the resulting precipitate was filtered and dried. Phytospinosine is used within the range of 1 to 5% by weight of the cream composition of the present invention.

Lecithin used in the present invention is a lecithin having a phosphatidylcholine (Phosphatidylcholine) content of more than 50% by weight and iodine value of about 20, it is used as 1 to 5% by weight of the cream composition of the present invention.

Red grape extract used in the present invention was used in the form of water-soluble powder in order to maximize the stability and antioxidant effects of the product. The powdery red grape extract is preferably used within the range of 1 to 5% by weight of the cream composition of the present invention.

The reason why the red grape extract is used in the cream composition of the present invention is first, red grapes contain a large amount of polyphenols, which are strong antioxidants that prevent harm of free radicals, which are toxic substances in the body, and prevent aging.

Polyphenols in red grapes contain tannins and flavonoids. Among them, an anthocyanin-containing red pigment prevents harmful oxygen from active oxygen. In addition, it has been shown to be effective in preventing lipid oxidation in the body and in preventing atherosclerosis. Second, because the red grape extract contains a variety of organic acids having a skin cell regeneration or wrinkle improvement action and glycerin having a moisturizing action.

Therefore, the cream composition of the present invention, using the red wine extract in order to take advantage of this property of red grapes to prevent damage caused by free radicals to the components of elastic fibers such as elastin or collagen and prevent skin aging as external use And nutritional supplements. In addition, cosmetic products that can maintain healthy skin by reinforcing skin barrier function by distributing stratum corneum lipid components to skin with reduced skin barrier function caused by microorganism, physicochemically damaged skin or weakening of skin cell function from outside It can be used as a raw material composition.

EXAMPLES Preparation Method of the Present Invention Cream Composition (CRD-1)

The cosmetic composition for enhancing the skin barrier function of the present invention is prepared by dividing the lipid phase and the aqueous phase and then slowly adding the aqueous phase to the lipid phase. First, the lipid phase is added to 1 g of stearic acid and 2.5 g of cholesterol to 5 g of tricaproloid to raise the temperature to 80 ° C. to make a single solution. While maintaining this solution at 80 ° C, 5 g of ceramide is added and stirred until complete dissolution. After adding 2 g of lecithin to dissolve, 1 g of oleic acid and 0.5 g of linoleic acid are added thereto.

The aqueous phase heats 78 g of distilled water to 80 ° C. After dissolving by adding 1 g of phytospingosin-Hcl, 1 g of phytosphingosine and 1 g of lactic acid are added and stirred until complete dissolution. Next, 2 g of red wine extract powder is added and dissolved. The lipid layer maintained at 80 ° C. was stirred vigorously for 1 hour while being slowly added to the aqueous phase maintained at 80 ° C., and then cooled slowly to room temperature to obtain a creamy composition.

Test Example 1 Inhibitory Effect on the Skin Microorganism of the Composition (Example) of the Present Invention

Inhibitory effect of the skin microorganism was tested using the cream composition of the present invention prepared by the method of the above embodiment. The inhibition test for the microorganisms of the cream composition was used as follows. Ten subjects were selected and the cream composition of the present invention was applied only to one side of the face and after 2 hours, the distribution of microorganisms on both sides of the face was examined. Wipe both sides of the face using a sterile cotton pad and place it in sterile distilled water and stir vigorously for about 3 minutes. 100 μl of the stirred solution was collected and plated on Tryptic soy agar medium, and then cultured at 37 ° C. for 24 hours, and the number of colonies formed was measured.

The inhibitory effect on the skin microorganisms for the ten experimenters by the above method is shown in Table 1 below. FIG. 1 is a graph showing the arithmetic mean of the total number of colonies of the skin-derived microorganisms in the face part of which the cream composition of the present invention was applied to 10 test subjects and the control cream-coated side.

Test Example 2 Wrinkle Improvement Effect of the Composition of the Present Invention

One of the seven female volunteers aged 44-53 years old had a cream containing 5% by weight of the cream composition of the present invention on one side and a control cream on the other for 28 days each morning, evening After applying twice, the skin image analyzer (SkinImage Analyser) was used to measure the number and depth of wrinkles and changes in total wrinkle area. The wrinkles were divided into fine wrinkles, normal wrinkles, and deep wrinkles, and the measured area was 1 ㎠.

The measurement results obtained by the skin image analyzer were applied to the skin for 28 days by substituting the following formula for each item, and the changed state of wrinkles was expressed as a percentage from the state before the experiment.

As can be seen in Figure 2 it can be seen that the number of fine wrinkles, normal wrinkles and deep wrinkles is significantly reduced when the composition of the present invention is applied. In particular, the results showed that the number of wrinkles around the eyes decreased the most, and the area of the entire wrinkles also decreased on average.

Test Example 3 Anti-inflammatory Effect of the Composition of the Present Invention

In order to test the anti-inflammatory effect of phytospingosin, one of the main components of the cream, an in vivo experiment was conducted in which volunteers were measured to determine the effect of the actual consumer. As a control cream, a commercially available cream containing no phytospinosine was used. The composition of the present invention for the thermal erythema caused by overexposure to infrared rays and the actinic erythema caused by overexposure to ultraviolet rays to measure the sedative effect on different inflammations according to the type of irritation applied to the skin. The effect of was tested. Volunteers were divided into a panel of five women aged 22-59 years old and a panel of one male and four women aged 18-29 years old.

The sedative effect of phytospingosin was counted by measuring cutaneous microcirculation, skin erythema and skin temperature. Subcutaneous capillary blood flow was measured by a thermal conductivity measuring instrument (Hematron), which decreased as the capillary contracted and increased as it expanded. The decrease in inflammation is an indication that the swelling (edema) will not go away due to the contraction of the swollen capillaries. Skin erythema was measured using a Minolta CR300 chromameter and skin temperature was also measured using hematron.

IR Phillips 250 S was used to induce heat erythema. The intensity of irradiation was 70mW / ㎠ and was irradiated at a distance of 50cm for 30 minutes to induce heat erythema. The irradiation site was 14 cm 2. Ultraviolet radiation was irradiated to 4 cm 2 site at 100W intensity using a UV irradiation apparatus (SUNTEST / ORIGINAL HANAU) equipped with a Xenon lamp. Minimal Erythemal Dose (MED) for each volunteer was determined and investigated. The soothing effect by the composition of the present invention was measured on the day 5 and 7 after irradiating ultraviolet rays, respectively.

1. Calm effect of heat erythema

When the composition of the present invention was applied as compared to placebo, a control cream, 80% of volunteers showed that the decrease in capillary blood circulation ranged from -0.12 mW / cm. ℃ to -0.72 mW / cm. ℃. It has been shown to have an anti-inflammatory effect by the compositions of the invention. For reference, the thermal conductivity difference (ΔT) is -0.1 mW / cm. Chromameter measurements show that at the same time, 60% of volunteers have fewer seizures in erythema.

2. Soothing effect of UV-induced erythema

When the composition of the present invention was applied as compared to placebo, a control cream, 60% of volunteers showed a decrease in capillary blood circulation ranging from -0.10 mW / cm ° C to -0.70 mW / cm. ° C. The anti-inflammatory effect by the composition was shown to be excellent. For reference, the difference in thermal conductivity is (ΔT) -0.1 mW / cm. ℃ or more is a reliable level. On the other hand, in the case of skin temperature, 60% of volunteers were found to have significantly lowered the skin temperature at the stimulation site. Individuals showed a reduction in skin temperature ranging from -0.7 ° C. to -1.1 ° C., indicating that the cream composition of the present invention was also excellent in anti-inflammatory effects by irritation of ultraviolet rays.

A sedative effect on UV-induced skin erythema by the composition of the present invention is shown in FIG. 3.

Test Example 4 Measurement of Skin Water Evaporation Amount (TEWL) of the Composition of the Present Invention

Acetone / ether was repeatedly applied for 5 minutes to the forearm of 10 men and women between 20 and 40 years of age. After the application of water, the amount of water evaporation at the application site was measured and found to be 2mg / Cm2 / hr. After applying the placebo cream and the composition of the present invention (CRD-1) to an area of 5 cm 2 on the application site, TEWL (Transepidermal Water Loss) of the damaged skin area was measured over time. As shown in FIG. 4, the site to which the composition of the present invention is applied can be seen that the skin moisturizing effect is superior to the control cream as time passes.

Test Example 5 Free radical elimination effect of red grape powder.

A free radical scavenging test was performed by the Fugita method using a DPPH (1,1-Diphenyl-2-Picryl-Hydrazyl) solution.

As shown in Figure 5, red grape powder showed a tendency to eliminate free radicals in a concentration-dependent manner as the concentration increases. Red grapes were found to eliminate 65.2% to 76.2% of free radicals at test concentrations of 0.1% to 3% (w / v%).

As described above, the cream composition prepared by the present invention has no side effects and excellent skin permeability and moisturizing power compared to a product in which ceramide is mixed with the skin cell membrane and other compositions. In addition, the cream composition of the present invention is not only excellent in the inhibitory effect on the skin microorganisms, but also effective in improving wrinkles, and thus may be applied to cosmetic cosmetics. It has also been shown to be effective in anti-inflammatory treatments such as UV-induced heat erythema and infrared-induced skin erythema.

Claims (11)

Cosmetic cream composition for skin protection, wherein the composition is a cosmetic cream composition, characterized in that consisting of ceramide, cholesterol, fatty acids, phytospinosine, lecithin, and red grape extract. The cosmetic cream composition of claim 1, wherein the ceramide is used in an amount of 1 to 10% by weight of the cream composition. According to claim 1, wherein the cholesterol is a cosmetic cream composition, characterized in that used in 40 to 60% by weight of the ceramide addition amount. Fatty acid is a cosmetic cream composition characterized in that it is used in the cream composition by mixing stearic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid (Linoleic Acid) in a ratio of 1: 1: 1. According to claim 1, wherein the lecithin cosmetic cream composition, characterized in that used in 1 to 5% by weight of the composition. The cosmetic cream composition according to claim 1, wherein the fatty acid is used at 0.5 to 5% by weight of the composition. According to claim 1, wherein the phytospingosin is a cosmetic cream composition, characterized in that used in 0.5 to 5% by weight of the composition. The cosmetic cream composition of claim 1, wherein the powdery red grape extract is used in an amount of 1 to 5% by weight of the composition. The cosmetic cream composition of claim 1, wherein the phytospingosin derivative is used alone or in the form of an organic salt using an organic acid to increase solubility and emulsification power. The cosmetic cream composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the cream composition is used to remove wrinkles. 9. A cosmetic cream composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the cream composition is used for anti-inflammatory treatment such as ultraviolet-induced heat erythema or infrared-induced skin erythema.