KR20000020147A - Wrap knitted fabric having excellent touch - Google Patents

Wrap knitted fabric having excellent touch Download PDF

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Publication number
KR20000020147A
KR20000020147A KR1019980038596A KR19980038596A KR20000020147A KR 20000020147 A KR20000020147 A KR 20000020147A KR 1019980038596 A KR1019980038596 A KR 1019980038596A KR 19980038596 A KR19980038596 A KR 19980038596A KR 20000020147 A KR20000020147 A KR 20000020147A
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South Korea
Prior art keywords
yarn
knitted fabric
fineness
warp knitted
denier
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KR1019980038596A
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Korean (ko)
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KR100292576B1 (en
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조대현
윤준영
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구광시
주식회사 코오롱
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B21/00Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/02Pile fabrics or articles having similar surface features
    • D04B21/04Pile fabrics or articles having similar surface features characterised by thread material
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B21/00Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/20Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting articles of particular configuration
    • D04B21/207Wearing apparel or garment blanks
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/02Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyamides
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/04Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]

Abstract

PURPOSE: A wrap knitted fabric is provided to have the excellent touch and the drape property by controlling the mixture of yarn material when the wrap knitted fabric is produced. CONSTITUTION: A wrap knitted fabric is produced by controlling the fineness of single fiber and the weight ratio of surface-texture-yarn and reverse side-texture yarn. The yarn of surface structure is a very fine fiber of polyester having the fineness of single fiber under 0.07denier, the yarn of rear structure is a thick fineness yarn of synthetic fiber having the 15-30deniers fineness of single fiber, and the weight ratio of the surface structure yarn and the rear structure yarn is 80-95wt%: 20-5wt%.

Description

촉감이 우수한 경편지.Light hand paper with excellent touch.

본 발명은 촉감이 우수한 경편지에 관한 것이다.The present invention relates to a warp knit excellent in touch.

섬유는 가늘어질수록 굽힘강성이 저하되므로 초극세 섬유로 제조된 포지는 매우 소프트한 촉감을 지닐 수 있는 장점이 있기 때문에 초극세 섬유의 상품화와 관련된 연구가 매우 활발하게 진전되고 있다. 또한 합성섬유의 초극세화 기술의 개발은 의류용 감성소재의 상품성을 크게 진보시킨 동기가 되었다.As the fiber becomes thinner, the bending stiffness is lowered, so that the forge made of the ultrafine fiber has the advantage of having a very soft touch. In addition, the development of ultra-fine technology of synthetic fibers has been the motive for greatly improving the merchandise of clothing-sensitive materials.

일반적으로 초극세 섬유의 제조방법은 직접방사법, 2성분 분할형 방사법, 2성분 용출형 방사법 3가지로 구분할 수 있다. 직접방사법으로 제조가능한 초극세 섬유의 섬도는 0.3∼0.5데니어 수준이며, 2성분 분할형 방사법으로 제조가능한 초극세 섬유의 섬도는 0.2데니어 수준인데 비하여, 2성분 용출형 방사법으로 제조가능한 초극세 섬유의 섬도는 0.05데니어 수준까지도 제조할 수 있다. 이러한 초극세 섬유를 활용한 상품화가 직물분야에서는 다양하게 진전되고 있지만, 편물분야 특히 경편지 분야의 경우 정경, 후가공시 발생되는 여러 가지의 결점으로 인하여 상품화까지는 진전되지 못하고 있는 실정이다.In general, the production method of ultra-fine fibers can be classified into three types: direct spinning, two-component split spinning, and two-component eluted spinning. The fineness of the ultrafine fibers manufacturable by the direct spinning method is 0.3-0.5 denier, and the fineness of the ultrafine fibers manufacturable by the bicomponent split spinning method is 0.2 denier, whereas the fineness of the ultrafine fibers manufacturable by the bicomponent eluting spinning method is 0.05. Even denier levels can be produced. Commercialization using such ultra-fine fibers is progressing in various ways in the textile sector, but in the knitting sector, especially in the warp knitting sector, the commercialization is not progressed due to various defects generated during canon and post-processing.

구체적으로 직접방사법으로 제조된 초극세 섬유를 경편물에 적용할 경우, 많은 필라멘트들이 분산되는 관계로 정경성이 매우 불량하게 되며, 제조된 경편지의 표면 촉감 및 라이팅 이펙트도 불량하게 되는 문제가 있다.Specifically, when the ultrafine fiber manufactured by the direct spinning method is applied to the warp knitted fabric, since the filaments are dispersed, the diameter is very poor, and the surface feel and the lighting effect of the manufactured warp knitted fabric are also poor.

한편 나일론/폴리에스테르로 구성된 2성분 분할형 복합방사법으로 제조된 초극세 섬유를 경편물에 적용할 경우에는 나일론과 폴리에스테르가 비상용성인 관계로 정경 및 제편시 받게되는 장력 또는 마찰에 의하여 나일론과 폴리에스테르가 격리되어 정경성 및 제편성이 불량하게 되며, 제조된 경편지의 외관이 불량하게 된다.On the other hand, when the ultra-fine fibers made by the two-component split composite spinning method composed of nylon / polyester are applied to warp knitted fabric, nylon and polyester are incompatible with nylon or polyester due to the tension or friction that is received during warp and weave due to their incompatibility. It is isolated and the warp and knitting is poor, the appearance of the warp knitted fabric is poor.

한편 2성분 용출형 방사법으로 제조된 초극세 섬유를 사용하여 경편물을 제조하는 경우에는 정경성 및 제편성이 우수하고 제조된 가공지의 외관은 양호하였으나, 후가공단계에서 1성분이 용출되어 초극세화되는 관계로 경편지가 지나치게 소프트해져 실용적인 상품성은 부족하게 되는 문제가 있다.On the other hand, when the warp knitted fabric is manufactured using the ultra-fine fibers manufactured by the two-component elution spinning method, the warp and knitting properties are excellent and the appearance of the processed paper is good, but the one-component is eluted at the post-processing stage to become ultra-fine. There is a problem that the warp letter becomes too soft and the practical commerciality is insufficient.

본 발명은 이상에서 설명한 여러 문제점들을 극복하기 위하여 경편지 제조시 원사소재의 조합을 적절하게 조절하므로서 촉감 및 드레이프성이 매우 우수한 경편지를 제공하고자 한다.The present invention is to provide a warp knit with excellent touch and drape property by appropriately adjusting the combination of the yarn material in the manufacture of warp knit in order to overcome the various problems described above.

본 발명은 정경 및 제편 등의 공정성이 향상되며 촉감, 드레이프성, 라이팅 이펙트 및 외관이 우수한 경편지를 제공하고자 한다.The present invention seeks to provide a warp knitted paper having excellent processability such as diameter and size of the knitting and excellent touch, drape, lighting effect and appearance.

본 발명은 촉감이 소프트하고, 드레이프성, 라이팅 이펙트 및 외관이 우수한 경편지에 관한 것이다.The present invention relates to a warp knit having a soft touch and excellent drape, lighting effect and appearance.

구체적으로 본 발명은 초극세사를 사용하여 경편지를 제조할 때, 표면조직원사와 이면조직원사의 단사섬도 및 중량비를 적절하게 조절함을 특징으로 한다.Specifically, the present invention is characterized in that when preparing the warp knitted using ultra-fine yarn, the single yarn fineness and weight ratio of the surface tissue yarn and the back tissue yarn are properly adjusted.

더욱 구체적으로 본 발명은 표면조직원사는 단사섬도가 0.07데니어 이하인 폴리에스테르 초극세사이고, 이면조직원사는 단사섬도가 15∼30데니어인 합성섬유 태섬도사이고, 상기 표면조직원사 : 이면조직원사의 중량비가 80∼95중량% : 20∼5중량%인 경편지에 관한 것이다.More specifically, in the present invention, the surface tissue yarn is a polyester ultra-fine yarn having a single yarn fineness of 0.07 denier or less, and the back surface yarn is a synthetic fiber Taeseodo yarn having a single yarn fineness of 15 to 30 denier, and the weight ratio of the surface tissue yarn: the back surface yarn is 80 to 95. % By weight: 20 to 5% by weight.

이하 본 발명을 상세하게 설명하기로 한다.Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.

먼저 본 발명 경편지의 표면조직원사는 단사섬도가 0.07데니어 이하인 폴리에스테르 초극세사이다. 상기 폴리에스테르 초극세사는 도성분이 폴리에스테르이고 해성분이 알카리 가용성 공중합 폴리에스테르인 2성분 용출형 복합섬유로 경편지를 제편한 다음, 후가공 공정에서 상기 해성분을 용출하는 방법으로 제조될 수 있다. 표면조직원사의 단사섬도가 0.07데니어를 초과하는 경우에는 촉감이 하드해지고 라이팅 이펙트 효과가 저하된다.First, the surface tissue yarn of the warp knitted fabric of the present invention is a polyester ultrafine yarn having a single yarn fineness of 0.07 denier or less. The polyester microfiber may be prepared by a method of dissolving the warp knitted fabric with a bicomponent eluting composite fiber having a polyester component and an alkali soluble copolyester of the sea component, and then eluting the sea component in a post-processing process. When the single yarn fineness of the surface tissue yarn exceeds 0.07 denier, the touch becomes hard and the lighting effect is lowered.

다음으로 본 발명 경편지의 이면조직원사는 단사섬도가 15∼30데니어인 합성섬유 태섬도사이다. 상기 함성섬유 태섬도사는 모노필라멘트인 것이 경편지의 중량을 균일하게 할 수 있어서 더욱 바람직하며, 구체적인 예로는 폴리에스테르 모노필라멘트 또는 폴리아미드 모노필라멘트 등을 사용할 수 있다.Next, the back surface yarn of the warp knitted fabric of the present invention is a synthetic fiber Taeseodo yarn having a single yarn fineness of 15 to 30 denier. It is more preferable that the impregnated fiber Taeseomyeonsa is monofilament because the weight of the warp knitted paper can be uniform, and specific examples thereof include polyester monofilament or polyamide monofilament.

이면조직원사의 단사섬도가 15데니어 미만일 경우에는 경편지(가공지)내 이면조직원사의 중량%가 너무 많아져 드레이프성은 양호해지나 소프트한 촉감을 발현할 수 없게되며, 단사섬도가 30데니어를 초과할 경우에는 정경 및 제편 등의 공정성이 악화된다.If the single yarn fineness of the backside tissue yarn is less than 15 denier, the weight percent of the backside tissue yarn in the warp knitted fabric (processed paper) becomes too much, resulting in a good drape but no soft touch, and the single yarn fineness exceeding 30 denier. In such a case, fairness such as canon and chips is deteriorated.

본 발명의 경편지는 표면조직원사 : 이면조직원사의 중량비가 80∼95중량% : 20∼5중량%이다. 만약 경편지(가공지 기준)내 이면조직원사의 중량비가 5중량% 미만일 경우에는 드레이프성이 나빠지고, 중량비가 20중량%를 초과할 경우에는 소프트한 촉감이 저하된다.The warp knitted fabric of the present invention has a weight ratio of surface tissue yarn: back tissue yarn of 80 to 95 wt%: 20 to 5 wt%. If the weight ratio of the back surface tissue yarn in the warp knitted fabric (based on the processed paper) is less than 5% by weight, the drape property is deteriorated, and when the weight ratio is more than 20% by weight, the soft touch is degraded.

본 발명의 경편지는 도성분이 0.07데니어 이하인 폴리에스테르이고 해성분이 알카리 가용성인 공중합 폴리에스테르인 2성분 용출형 복합섬유를 표면조직의 원사로 사용하고, 단사섬도가 15∼30데니어인 폴리에스테르 또는 폴리아미드 모노필라멘트를 이면조직의 원사로 사용하여 경편지를 제편한 다음, 공지의 조건으로 기모, 예비셋트, 감량, 염색, 버핑 및 최종 셋팅하여 제조할 수 있다.The warp knitted fabric of the present invention uses a two-component eluting composite fiber, which is a polyester having an island component of 0.07 denier or less and a sea component of an alkali-soluble copolyester, as a yarn of surface texture, and has a single yarn fineness of 15 to 30 denier The amide monofilament can be prepared by knitting a warp knit using yarn as a backside tissue, followed by brushing, preliminary set, weight loss, dyeing, buffing and final setting under known conditions.

본 발명의 경편지는 표면조직원사가 2성분 용출형 원사이기 때문에 정경 및 제편 등의 공정통과성이 우수함과 동시에, 후가공시 해성분이 용출되어 표면조직원사가 초극세화 되기 때문에 우수한 라이팅 이펙트와 소프트한 촉감을 발현할 수 있다.Since the warp knitted fabric of the present invention is a two-component eluting type of surface tissue yarn, it has excellent process passability such as diameter and cutting, and at the same time, the sea component is eluted at the time of post-processing, so that the surface tissue yarn becomes ultra-fine and has excellent lighting effect and soft touch. Can be expressed.

한편 본 발명의 경편지는 이면조직원사가 적절한 섬도를 갖는 태섬도사이기 때문에 종래 2성분 용출형 원사로 경편지를 제조할 때 촉감이 지나치게 소프트해지는 문제를 해결할 수 있으며 우수한 드레이프성을 발현할 수 있다.On the other hand, the warp knitted fabric of the present invention can solve the problem of excessively soft touch when manufacturing the warp knitted fabric with the conventional two-component eluting yarn because the back tissue yarn has an appropriate fineness and can express excellent drape.

이하 실시예 및 비교실시예를 통하여 본 발명을 더욱 구체적으로 살펴 보기로 한다. 그러나 본 발명이 아래 실시예에만 한정되는 것은 아니다.Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to Examples and Comparative Examples. However, the present invention is not limited only to the following examples.

실시예 1Example 1

폴리에틸렌테레프탈레이트를 도성분으로 하고 알카리 가수분해성이 우수한 폴리에스테르 공중합 폴리머를 해성분으로 하되 해성분을 용출후 형성되는 도성분 섬도가 0.05데니어인 용출형 복합섬유를 표면조직의 원사로 사용하고, 섬도가 20데니어인 폴리에스테르 모노필라멘트를 이면조직의 원사로 하여 밀도가 23본/㎝인 경편지를 제조한다. 이때 경편지내의 표면조직원사 : 이면조직원사의 중량비를 85중량% : 15중량%가 되도록 한다.Elution type composite fiber having 0.05 denier of island component fineness formed after dissolving the seaweed by polyester copolymer polymer having polyethylene terephthalate as an island component and excellent alkaline hydrolysis property is used as the yarn for surface texture. The mono-filament of which 20 denier is used as a yarn of a back surface structure, and the light knitted paper of 23 densities / cm of density is manufactured. At this time, the weight ratio of surface tissue yarn: back tissue yarn in warp knitted fabric should be 85 wt%: 15 wt%.

제조된 경편지를 기모하고, 190℃에서 25m/분의 속도로 예비셋팅하고, 1% 농도 및 98℃의 가성소오다 수용액에서 30분간 감량하고, 분산염료 [ KAYALON BLACK EX-SF, 2% Owf ] 로 130℃에서 50분간 염색하고, 버핑 및 최종셋팅(180℃에서 25m/분)하여 가공 경편지를 제조한다. 가공 경편지의 품질특성을 평가한 결과는 표 2와 같다.The prepared warp knitted fabric was raised, pre-set at a speed of 25 m / min at 190 ° C., and reduced for 30 minutes in an aqueous solution of caustic soda at 1% concentration and 98 ° C., and dispersed dye [KAYALON BLACK EX-SF, 2% Owf ] Dyed at 130 ℃ for 50 minutes, buffing and final setting (25 m / min at 180 ℃) to prepare a warp knitted paper. The results of evaluating the quality characteristics of the warp knitted paper are shown in Table 2.

실시예 2∼ 비교실시예 3Example 2-Comparative Example 3

제편조건을 표 1과 같이 변경한 것을 제외하고는 실시예 1과 동일한 공정 및 조건으로 가공 경편지를 제조한다. 가공 경편지의 품질 특성을 평가한 결과는 표 2와 같다.Processed warp knitted papers were manufactured by the same process and conditions as in Example 1 except that the cutting conditions were changed as shown in Table 1. The results of evaluating the quality characteristics of the processed warp knitted paper are shown in Table 2.

< 표 1 > 제편 조건<Table 1> Cutting conditions

구 분division 실 시 예 1Example 1 실 시 예 2Example 2 비교실시예1Comparative Example 1 비교실시예2Comparative Example 2 비교실시예3Comparative Example 3 표면조직원사 섬도(데니어)Surface texture yarn fineness (denier) 0.050.05 0.050.05 0.050.05 0.20.2 0.050.05 이면조직원사 섬도(데니어)Back side tissue yarn fine island (denier) 2020 2020 55 2020 2020 이면조직원사폴리머 종류Back Tissue Yarn Polymer Type 폴리에스테르Polyester 폴리아미드Polyamide 폴리에스테르Polyester 폴리에스테르Polyester 폴리에스테르Polyester 이면조직원사중량%Cotton tissue weight% 1515 2525 3030 1515 44

< 표 2 > 경편지 품질특성 평가결과<Table 2> Evaluation Results of Light Knot Quality Characteristics

구 분division 소프트성Softness 드레이프성Drape Castle 라이팅 이펙트Lighting effects 외 관Exterior 실 시 예 1Example 1 실 시 예 2Example 2 비교실시예 1Comparative Example 1 비교실시예 2Comparative Example 2 ×× ×× 비교실시예 3Comparative Example 3 ××

본 발명에 있어서 경편지의 품질특성은 아래 방법으로 평가한다.In the present invention, the quality characteristics of warp knitted paper are evaluated by the following method.

· 소프트성Softness

10명의 전문가에 의한 관능검사결과를 기준으로 한다. 8명 이상이 소프트하다고 판단할 경우를 ◎, 5∼7명이 소프트하다고 판단할 경우를 △, 8명 이상이 소프트성이 불량하다고 판단한 경우를 ×로 구분하였다.Based on the results of sensory evaluation by 10 experts. (Circle) and the case where 5-7 people judge it is soft, and the case where 8 or more judges that softness is inferior by the case where it judges that 8 or more people are soft are divided into x.

· 드레이프성Drape

10명의 전문가에 의한 관능검사결과를 기준으로 한다. 8명 이상이 드레이프성이 있다고 판단할 경우를 ◎, 5∼7명이 드레이프성이 있다고 판단할 경우를 △, 8명 이상이 드레이프성이 불량하다고 판단한 경우를 ×로 구분하였다.Based on the results of sensory evaluation by 10 experts. ? And 5 or 7 were judged to be drape, and 8 or more judged that drape was poor.

· 라이팅 이펙트Lighting effect

10명의 전문가에 의한 관능검사결과를 기준으로 한다. 8명 이상이 라이팅 이펙트성이 있다고 판단할 경우를 ◎, 5∼7명이 라이팅 이펙트성이 있다고 판단할 경우를 △, 8명 이상이 라이팅 이펙트성이 불량하다고 판단한 경우를 ×로 구분하였다.Based on the results of sensory evaluation by 10 experts. ◎, when 5 or more people judge that the lighting effect is effective, △, and when 8 or more people judge that the lighting effect property is classified as ×.

· 외관· Exterior

10명의 전문가에 의한 관능검사결과를 기준으로 한다. 8명 이상이 양호한 외관이라고 판단할 경우를 ◎, 5∼7명이 양호한 외관이라고 판단할 경우를 △, 8명 이상이 불량한 외관이라고 판단한 경우를 ×로 구분하였다.Based on the results of sensory evaluation by 10 experts. (Circle) and the case where 5-7 people judge that a favorable external appearance judged that 8 or more people were a favorable external appearance were divided into (triangle | delta) and the case where 8 or more judged that an external appearance is poor.

본 발명의 경편지는 표면조직원사와 이면조직원사의 단사섬도 및 중량비가 적절하게 조합되어 있어서 소프트한 촉감을 갖고, 드레이프성, 라이팅 이펙트 및 외관이 우수하다. 또한 본 발명은 경편지 제조시 정경 및 제편 등의 공정성도 개선된다.The warp knitted fabric of the present invention has a soft feel by combining the single yarn fineness and the weight ratio of the surface tissue yarn and the back tissue yarn, and is excellent in drape property, lighting effect and appearance. In addition, the present invention also improves the processability, such as canon and chopped during the manufacture of warp knitted paper.

Claims (3)

표면조직원사는 단사섬도가 0.07데니어 이하인 폴리에스테르 초극세사이고, 이면조직원사는 단사섬도가 15∼30데니어인 합성섬유 태섬도사이고, 상기 표면조직원사 : 이면조직원사의 중량비가 80∼95중량% : 20∼5중량%인 것을 특징으로 하는 촉감이 우수한 경편지.The surface tissue yarn is a polyester microfiber yarn having a single yarn fineness of 0.07 denier or less, and the back surface yarn is a synthetic fiber Taeseodo yarn having a single yarn fineness of 15 to 30 denier, and the surface tissue yarn: the weight ratio of the back tissue yarn is 80 to 95% by weight: 20 to 5 Lightweight knit paper, characterized in that the weight percent excellent. 1항에 있어서, 합성섬유 태섬도사가 모노필라멘트인 것을 특징으로 하는 촉감이 우수한 경편지.The warp knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the synthetic fiber tasting yarn is a monofilament. 1항에 있어서, 합성섬유 태섬도사가 폴리에스테르사 또는 폴리아미드사인 것을 특징으로 하는 촉감이 우수한 경편지.The warp knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the synthetic fiber tamsado yarn is polyester yarn or polyamide yarn.
KR1019980038596A 1998-09-18 1998-09-18 Lightweight letter paper with excellent touch KR100292576B1 (en)

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
KR100362031B1 (en) * 2001-04-26 2002-11-23 주식회사 코오롱 A warp knitting fabric having an excellent wash fastness and light fastness, and a process of preparing the same
KR100546464B1 (en) * 1999-07-07 2006-01-25 주식회사 코오롱 Hard-knit paper excellent in touch and manufacturing method thereof

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KR100758638B1 (en) 2005-08-30 2007-09-14 정형희 Antistatic Knit fabrics of comfortablity
KR100969888B1 (en) 2007-11-09 2010-07-13 코오롱패션머티리얼 (주) Warp knitted fabric of synthetic multifilament

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KR20000013798A (en) * 1998-08-13 2000-03-06 장병주, 이일쇄 Production method of finest yarn warp knitted paper

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
KR100546464B1 (en) * 1999-07-07 2006-01-25 주식회사 코오롱 Hard-knit paper excellent in touch and manufacturing method thereof
KR100362031B1 (en) * 2001-04-26 2002-11-23 주식회사 코오롱 A warp knitting fabric having an excellent wash fastness and light fastness, and a process of preparing the same

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