KR20000002201A - Manufacturing method of elastic fabric - Google Patents
Manufacturing method of elastic fabric Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- KR20000002201A KR20000002201A KR1019980022804A KR19980022804A KR20000002201A KR 20000002201 A KR20000002201 A KR 20000002201A KR 1019980022804 A KR1019980022804 A KR 1019980022804A KR 19980022804 A KR19980022804 A KR 19980022804A KR 20000002201 A KR20000002201 A KR 20000002201A
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- South Korea
- Prior art keywords
- yarn
- fabric
- yarns
- elasticity
- manufacturing
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Classifications
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/56—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads elastic
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
- D01F—CHEMICAL FEATURES IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS; APPARATUS SPECIALLY ADAPTED FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF CARBON FILAMENTS
- D01F6/00—Monocomponent artificial filaments or the like of synthetic polymers; Manufacture thereof
- D01F6/58—Monocomponent artificial filaments or the like of synthetic polymers; Manufacture thereof from homopolycondensation products
- D01F6/62—Monocomponent artificial filaments or the like of synthetic polymers; Manufacture thereof from homopolycondensation products from polyesters
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
- D03D13/004—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft with weave pattern being non-standard or providing special effects
Abstract
Description
본 발명은 신축력에 차이가 있는 2종의 위사를 사용하여 신축직물을 제직하되 고신축력을 가진 위사는 결합조직에 적용시켜 직물표면에는 나타나지 않게하고 저신축력을 가진 위사는 직물의 표면에 발현되도록함으로서 질감효과(texturing effect), 촉감 및 드레이프성 등이 우수한 신축직물을 제조하는 방법에 관한 것이다.In the present invention, weaving stretch fabrics using two kinds of weft yarns with different elasticity, but weft yarns with high elasticity are applied to the connective tissue so that they do not appear on the fabric surface and the weft yarns with low elasticity are expressed on the surface of the fabric. The present invention relates to a method for producing a stretch fabric having excellent texturing effect, feel and drape.
종래의 대표적 신축성 소재로서는 편물이 있는데 이것은 편환(Loop)에 의하여 신축성이 발현되게 한 것이므로 착용시에 형태안정성이 부족하고 취급이 용이하지 않은 문제점이 있었다. 이에 대하여 직물(Woven fabric)은 경사와 위사를 교차시킨것이기 때문에 조직이 안정한 반면에 신축성은 편물에 비하여 부족하였다. 종래에는 신축성직물을 제조하려면 탄성사나 신축성이 풍부한 사를 사용해야만 하였다.Typical representative stretchable materials include knitted fabrics, which are made to express elasticity by looping, and thus have a problem in that they lack shape stability and are not easy to handle when worn. On the other hand, the fabric was stable because the fabric intersected the warp and weft, while the elasticity was insufficient compared to the knitted fabric. Conventionally, elastic yarns or elastically rich yarns have to be used to prepare stretch fabrics.
한국 특허공고 제 82-1914 호나 제 96-10623 호등으로 알려진 바와같이 신축성사를 이용한 신축직물의 제조방법으로는As known from Korean Patent Publication No. 82-1914 or 96-10623, there is a method of manufacturing a stretch fabric using elastic yarn.
첫째, 폴리우레탄계(Polyurethane)탄성사를 심사로 하고 여기에 장섬유 또는 단섬유를 피복한 피복사(Covered yarn)를 사용하여 직조하는 방법과,First, a method of weaving by using a polyurethane-based elastic yarn as the screening and using a coated yarn coated with long or short fibers,
둘째, 열가소성 필라멘트(Filament)사를 선연가연(先撚假撚)하거나 또는 사(絲)의 꼬임구조를 변경시켜 신축성사를 제조한 후 이를 사용하여 신축직물을 제조하는 방법이 있었다.Second, there was a method of manufacturing stretch fabrics by manufacturing a stretchable yarn by pre-twisting the thermoplastic filament yarn or by changing the twisting structure of the yarn.
그러나 전자의 방법은 탄성사의 염색견뢰도가 불량하여 세탁시 오염이 잘되고 내후성이 낮으며 제품가격이 고가인 문제점이 있었으며, 후자의 경우는 탄성회복율이 저조하여 신축성이 미흡한 문제점이 있었다.However, the former method has a problem in that the dyeing fastness of the elastic yarn is poor, so that the contamination is poor when washing, the weather resistance is low, and the product price is expensive. In the latter case, the elastic recovery rate is low and the elasticity is insufficient.
본 발명은 상술한 바와같은 종래의 문제점을 해결한것으로서, 탄성사 대신에신축성이 다른 2종의 위사를 이용하여 저렴한 가격으로 자연스러운 표면느낌(Surface touch)을 최대한 발현시키는 신축직물을 제조하는 방법을 제공하는데 그 목적이 있다.The present invention is to solve the conventional problems as described above, by using two kinds of weft yarns of different elasticity instead of elastic yarns to provide a method for producing a stretch fabric that expresses the natural surface touch (surface touch) at the most affordable price Its purpose is to.
본 발명을 더욱 상세하게 설명하면 다음과 같다.The present invention is described in more detail as follows.
본 발명은 경사와 위사로 직물을 제직하되, 경사로는 통상의 합성섬유멀티필라멘트 가연사(加撚絲)를 사용하고, 위사로는 신축력에 차이가 있는 2종의 사를 사용하되 그 한가지는 보통의 폴리에스테르 가연사(假撚絲)를 사용하여 표면조직에만 주로 나타나는 표면효과사의 역할을 하도록하고 다른 한가지는 신축성이 풍부한 폴리에스테르사를 사용하여 표면에는 나타나지 않게한다. 이때 직물의 이면에서 경사와 신축효과를 내는 위사(결합사)와의 교차점은 1 ∼ 3개가 되도록 제직함을 특징으로 하는 신축직물의 제조방법이다.In the present invention, weaving the fabric with a warp and weft yarn, but using a conventional synthetic fiber multifilament twisted yarn (加 撚 絲) as a warp yarn, we use two kinds of yarn with a difference in elasticity, but the one is usually Use polyester twisted yarn to act as a surface effect yarn that appears mainly on surface tissues, and the other one is made of elastic polyester yarn so that it does not appear on the surface. At this time, the intersection of the warp yarn (bonding yarn) that exerts the warp and stretch effect at the back of the fabric is a manufacturing method of the stretch fabric, characterized in that weaving so that one to three.
본발명에서의 신축성사는 신축성가연사(假撚絲) 혹은 고수축사이다.The stretchable yarn in the present invention is a stretchable twisted yarn or a high-yield yarn.
본 발명에서 교차점이란 직물조직상에서 경사와 위사가 교차될 때 위사가 직물표면에 나타나 경사와 만나는 점으로, 예컨데 평직의 경우는 교차점이 1개이며 3엎 1다운(3up 1down) 능직의 경우는 경사와 위사의 교차점이 3개, 즉 위사가 경사 위에 교차되는 점을 가르킨다.In the present invention, the intersection point is a point where the weft yarn appears on the fabric surface when the warp yarn and the weft cross on the fabric structure and meet the warp yarn. For example, in the case of plain weave, there is one intersection point and the warp yarn in the case of 3 up 1down twill weave. The intersection of the weft and the weft points to three, that is, the point at which the weft intersects the slope.
본 발명에서 교차점은 직물의 표면조직에서도 결합역할을 하되 직물표면이 아닌 뒷면에서도 결합역할을 하므로 완전조직의 경사수가 8∼16 정도를 기준으로 하였을때 교차점이 3개를 초과하면 결합조직이 직물표면에 나타날 뿐만아니라 결합조직에 의한 신축효과도 떨어지며, 교차점이 없을 경우에도 신축성이 나빠지게 된다.In the present invention, the cross point plays a binding role on the surface of the fabric, but also plays a role of binding on the back surface instead of the surface of the fabric. Not only appears in the stretch effect by the connective tissue is also reduced, even if there is no intersection is worse.
본 발명의 직물조직은 이중직물(Double Cloth)이 아닌 보통의 직물구조에 결합조직(Binder Weave)으로 작용할 수 잇는 변형된 직물조직을 첨가시킨것으로서 기존의 조직은 표면에만 나타나고 결합조직(Binder Weave)은 표면에 나타나지 않고 직물의 뒷면에서만 보이게되는 변형조직이다.The fabric tissue of the present invention is not a double cloth (Double Cloth) but the normal fabric structure by adding a modified fabric that can act as a binder weave (Binder Weave) as the existing tissue appears only on the surface and connective tissue (Binder Weave) Is a deformed tissue that does not appear on the surface and is visible only on the back of the fabric.
본발명은 위사로 사용되고 있는 가연사(假撚絲)인 표면효과사에 의하여 직물의 표면효과가 발현되므로 질감과 촉감이 우수하며, 또다른 위사인 고신축성사는 직물의 표면에는 나타나지 않은체 직물의 이면에만 부출되어 있으므로 직물의 표면효과에는 영향을 주지않으면서 직물에 신축성을 부여하는 역할을 맡게 되는 것이다.The present invention is excellent in texture and feel because the surface effect of the fabric is expressed by the surface effect yarn, which is used as the weft yarn, and the high elastic yarn, another weft yarn, does not appear on the surface of the fabric. Since it is only exposed on the back side, it will play a role of giving elasticity to the fabric without affecting the surface effect of the fabric.
실시예Example
폴리에스터사 150데니어 48필라멘트사를 1800T/M으로 우연(S)과 좌연(Z) 한것을 2 대 2 의 비율로 배열하여 경사(폭 53인치 기준, 총 6890본)로 배치하고, 위사는 두 종류를 사용하되 표면효과사로는 폴리에스테르 가연사(假撚絲) 150데니어 48필라멘트를 800T/M 우연(S)으로 연사한것을 사용하고, 결합사(또다른 위사)로는 고수축사 80데니어 12필라멘트와 가연사(假撚絲) 75데니어 36필라멘트를 공기교락하여 합사한 후 800T/M으로 우연(S)한것을 사용하였다. 이때 결합사와 경사와의 교차점이 2개가 되도록하고 표면효과사와 결합사의 배열은 1 대 1 이 되도록 하여서 교호 제직하였다. 제직된 직물을 통상의 방법으로 염색·가공하여 특성을 비교 평가한 결과는 표 1 과 같았다.A 150-denier 48-filament yarn of polyester yarn is arranged at an inclination (2890) in a ratio of 2 to 2 at the 1800T / M, and the warp yarn (Z) is arranged at an inclination (53 inches in width, total 6890). Kinds of surface effect yarns include polyester twisted yarn 150 denier 48 filaments twisted with 800T / M chance (S), and as a binder yarn (another weft yarn), high shrink yarn 80 denier 12 filaments After twisting by air fused 75 denier and 36 filament of twisted yarn (假 撚 絲) was used by accident (S) at 800T / M. At this time, alternating weaving was performed so that the intersection point between the binder yarn and the warp yarn was two and the arrangement of the surface effect yarn and the binder yarn was one-to-one. The results of comparing and evaluating the properties of the woven fabric by the conventional method are shown in Table 1.
비교예 1Comparative Example 1
결합조직의 교차점이 없이 통상의 직물조직을 사용하는 것을 제외하고는 실시예와 같이 제직하고 염색가공하였다. 그 결과는 표 1 과 같다.Weaving and dyeing were performed in the same manner as in the example except that a conventional textile tissue was used without the intersection point of the connective tissue. The results are shown in Table 1.
비교예 2Comparative Example 2
교차점이 4개가 되는 것을 제외하고는 실시예와 같이 제직 및 염색가공하였다. 그 결과는 표 1 과 같다.Weaving and dyeing were carried out as in the example except that there were four crossing points. The results are shown in Table 1.
비교예 3Comparative Example 3
위사로서 탄성사 20데니어와 폴리에스테르 가연사 100데니어 190필라멘트를 커버링하여 제조한 신축성사를 사용한 것을 제외하고는 실시예와 같이 제직 및 염색가공하였다. 그 결과는 표 1 과 같다.Weaving and dyeing were performed as in the examples, except that elastic yarns prepared by covering 20 denier elastic yarn and 100 denier polyester twisted yarn 190 filaments were used as the weft yarn. The results are shown in Table 1.
※ ◎ : 매우좋음, ○ : 좋음, △ : 보통임, × : 나쁨※ ◎: Very good, ○: Good, △: Normal, ×: Bad
본발명으로 제조한 신축성직물은 직물표면이 폴리에스테르 가연사(假撚絲)로 되어있으므로 가연사에 의한 양호한 질감과 외관효과를 발현시킬 수 있으며 염색견뢰도도 우수하다.The stretch fabric manufactured by the present invention is made of polyester twisted yarns, so that it can express good texture and appearance effect by twisted twisted yarn and is excellent in color fastness.
또, 본발명은 종래의 선연가연사 혹은 커버링사에 비하여 가격이 저렴한 고신축성사가 직물의 표면에 나타나 있지 않으므로 염색성에 지장을 주지않으면서 저렴한 가격의 신축성직물을 제조할 수 있다.In addition, the present invention does not appear on the surface of the fabric of high-strength yarn, which is cheaper than conventional twisted twisted yarn or covering yarn, it is possible to manufacture a stretch fabric of low price without affecting the dyeability.
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KR1019980022804A KR100528746B1 (en) | 1998-06-17 | 1998-06-17 | Method of manufacturing stretch fabric |
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Cited By (2)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
KR20020004749A (en) * | 2000-07-07 | 2002-01-16 | 김대균 | Polyester textile with nylon touch |
KR100345652B1 (en) * | 2001-01-29 | 2002-07-24 | 박종계 | fabric knitted with hard-twisted yarn having high elasticity |
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KR820001914Y1 (en) * | 1981-07-01 | 1982-09-09 | 정안모 | Guitar |
KR950000475B1 (en) * | 1993-06-12 | 1995-01-20 | 주식회사 코오롱 | Waterproof fabric making method |
KR100199155B1 (en) * | 1996-07-11 | 1999-06-15 | 김윤 | Manufacturing method of different shringkage of effect similar |
KR0173530B1 (en) * | 1996-07-13 | 1999-02-18 | 김상응 | Method for manufacturing suede woven fabric |
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Cited By (2)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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KR20020004749A (en) * | 2000-07-07 | 2002-01-16 | 김대균 | Polyester textile with nylon touch |
KR100345652B1 (en) * | 2001-01-29 | 2002-07-24 | 박종계 | fabric knitted with hard-twisted yarn having high elasticity |
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