US2912015A - Wear resistant selvage for woven fabrics - Google Patents

Wear resistant selvage for woven fabrics Download PDF

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US2912015A
US2912015A US670922A US67092257A US2912015A US 2912015 A US2912015 A US 2912015A US 670922 A US670922 A US 670922A US 67092257 A US67092257 A US 67092257A US 2912015 A US2912015 A US 2912015A
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selvage
yarns
fabric
filling
yarn
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Marvin A Law
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Fieldcrest Mills Inc
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D5/00Selvedges

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  • This invention relates to woven fabrics and, more especially, to an improved selvage construction and method of making the same.
  • k Figure 1 is a greatly enlarged fragmentary plan view of one edge section of fabric illustrating one form of the improved selvage such as may be used with a flat-woven fabric;
  • Figure 2 is a chart of the pattern employed lon a pattern means, such as a pattern chain, for control of the heddles or other shed-forming means for producing the fabric of Figure l;
  • Figure 3 is a view similar to Figure 1 showing a second form of the improved selvage such as may be used with a terry weave;
  • Figure 4 is a chart similar to that of Figure 2 and showing the pattern for producing the portion of fabric shown in Figure 3;
  • Figure 5 is another view similar to Figure 1 illustrating a third form of selvage particularly adapted for use with a terry weave;
  • Figure 6 is another view similar to Figure 2 illustrating the pattern for manipulation of the warp yarns forv or interwoven with a selvage-reinforcing yarn or catch,
  • the first form of the invention shown in Figure l is embodied in an edge section of fabric including a body portion 10, which for purposes of illustration is shown as a plain weave, and a selvage portion 11.
  • body portion 10 which for purposes of illustration is shown as a plain weave
  • selvage portion 11 The terms, body portion and selvage portion, are used as reference terms for the purpose of ldescribing the invention.
  • the combined body portion 10 and selvage portionil would in some fabrics constitute what is customarily referred to as the selvage of the fabric whereas in other fabrics the selvage portion 11 alone might constitute the entire so-called selvage and the body portion 10, a part of the so-called body of the fabric.l
  • the selvage portion 11 may be provided at each side of the fabric or body portion 10 and, since the selvage may be constructed in the same manner at each longitudinal side edge of the fabric, only one of the selvages 11 is shown in Figure 1.
  • the section shown in Figure 1 includes a plurality of warp yarns 2W through 9W with the warp yarns 6W through 9W, and similar warp yarns extending to the opposite border of the fabric, not shown, interwoven with successive repeats of weft yarns 1-F, 2F, 3F and 4F.
  • the yarns heretofore described may be made from cotton or in the form of other soft, absorbent or relatively inexpensive yarn.
  • the warp yarns 2W through 6W forming the selvage portion 11 are interwoven with a generally weftwise extending catch-cord, reinforcing warp yarn "or catch thread C which in the lpattern chart shown in Figure 2, is illustrated as they rst warp yarn in the left-hand selvage of the fabric.
  • the catch cord may be in the forni of a single textile strand or a plurality of parallel or twisted strands, and is necessarily more resistant to wear than are the filling yarns from which the fabric body is made. It has been found most desirable to use a nylon or other synthetic yarn for the catch cord C.
  • the weaving ⁇ of the first form of fabric'the'catch cord is maintained under relatively lesser tension than that of the regular Warp yarns such as 2W through 9W or it is over-fed relative to the regular warp yarns, or it is made from a more resilient material than the other yarns.
  • the weft or ller yarn l-F is inserted through the shed formed of the warp yarns from right to left, and it will be noted that alternate warps 2W, 4W, 6W and 8W are up while intervening warps 3W, 5W,'7W and 9W are down.
  • the catch cord C is also down and, although it may be under relatively light tension, it would then extend adjacent, or to the left of, the outermost selvage warp yarn 2W.
  • the yarn or filling end forming the pick l-F is then looped around the catch cord C as the pick 2F is formed from left to right in Figure l.
  • the selvage warp yarns 2W, 3W, 4W and 5W at least, remain in the same position that they occupied during insertion of the pick 1-F so that, as the pick 2F is drawn through the shed, the slack is taken up in the catch cord C as it is drawn into the fabric by the looped picks l-F and 2F.
  • the catch cord C is formed into lateral or weftwise runs by the pull of the corresponding weft yarns.
  • the extent to which the catch cord C is drawn into the fabric will, of course, vary with the amount of tensionrpreent in the catch cord C or the amount of residual stretch therein as compared to the tension in or stretchability of theassociated filler yarns.
  • the catch cord C is raised so the pick strand 2F passes beneath the catch cord C to insure that the filling ends or weft yarns l-F and 2F are looped, at their juncture, around the catch cord C.
  • the position of the body warps, such as 6W, 7W, 8W and 9W may be varied, however, since the openshed need be maintained constant, with alternate pairs of picks, lwith respect to selvage warps only.
  • alternatewarps are down and intervening warps are up or, inother words, they occupy positions opposite from that which they occupied in forming the picksl-F and 2F.
  • the catch cord is lowered at the third pick 3F and is raised at the fourth pick 4F.
  • the catch cord is raised or is up during alternate picks and is down during intervening picks while alternate Warp yarns are up during alternate pairs'of picks' and are down during intervening pairs of picks between'said alternate pairs, the
  • the selvage portion 11 may include a greater number of warp yarns than are shown in Figure 1 and that the selvage warp yarns 3W, 4W, and 5W need not necessarily be formed as single strands.
  • the warp yarns in the selvage portion 11 may each represent a plurality of yarns without departing from the spirit of the invention.
  • the improved selvage may be constructed in the manner described with respect to Figures l and 2 in the weaving of terry fabrics.
  • the terry fabrics have spaced fast picks in which preceding groups of picks are beat up by the fast picks to form the terry loops, it has been found desirable in practice that the iilling ends in each of such groups ,or at least one end preceding eachvfast pick be in the same shed.
  • the fabric section in Figure A3 which is shown diagrammatically in Figure 4, includes a body portion 10' ahd a selvage portion 11' and is shown as having six picks 1-F' ⁇ andy 2F through 6F in each repeat, there being warp yarns 2W through 9W shown in Figure 3.
  • the picks 1-F, 2F', 3F and 4F are -all in the same shed; that is, alternate groups of -warps 2W', 4W', 6W' and 8W are up and the intervening warps or groups of warps 3W', 5W', 7W and 9W are down during the forming of the first four picksin each repeat A.
  • the catch cord C is down and up in alternation so that it is looped through the looped end portions of adjacent portions of picks and drawn into the fabric by the filling.
  • the last two picks 5F and 6F in each repeat are formed with the warps occupying the opposite position from that which they occupy during the forming of the four picks 1-F and 2F so that the picks 5F and 6F are actually formed in the same manner as each alternate pair of picks in the fabric section shown in Figure 1.
  • fast picks 3F and 6F in each repeat are so termed because the extent of forward movement of the loom reed with a beat-up stroke isl greater at ⁇ the picks 3F and 6F in each repeat than it is at each of the intervening or other picks 'so as to bunch up slackened warp yarns and form terry loops therefrom.
  • the catch cord C' is relatively slack as compared to the weft yarns and the -warp yarns with which itis woven, or is made of a material having a relatively high degree of residual stretch such as spun nylon, so the looped ends of the weft lyarns of each repeat are hidden in the fabric, it is sometimes desirable to use a stationary false warpwise strand or wire about which corresponding ends of lthe weft yarns are looped as they draw 'the catch cord into the 'fabric' so the looped portions of ladjacent picks of weft yarn are maintained in substantially warpwise alinement until fully secured in the weave after which they are beaten off the wire by thereed.
  • This method is well known in the art as a wire selvage.
  • the looped portions of adjacent weft yarns may also be maintained in alinement Vby other well known means Isuch yas a pick feeler or crow hopper set into the selvage.
  • resort to some form of aligning means such as that described -results in a neater looking selvage although it is not a requirement for practicing the invention.
  • the third form of selvage is embodiedin the fabric section shown in Figures 5, 6 and 7 and differs from the form shown in Figures 3 and 4 'in that the connecting looped ends of adjacent weft yarns are attached to the fabric at the juncture of the selvage and body portions so as to obviate the necessity of using a "wire*selvagc such as that heretofore described, in which the wire or false warpwise thread need be removed after the fabric is woven.
  • the last two warps at each side of the body of the fabric serve as stop cords; that is the looped portions of certain spaced adjacent pairs of filling ends, such as the filling ends 1- and 2F in each repeat A, are looped about the warp 6W and certain other spaced adjacent pairs of filling ends, such as 3F and 4F" in each repeat, are looped about the warp 7W.
  • a portion of the body portion 10 shown in Figure 5 is ina plain weave to the extent that the weft yarns are maintained under substantially the same tension as the warp yarns 2W through 5Wl during weaving so as to provide a substantial firmly woven area between the selvage portion and the looped portion of the fabric. It is well known that terry loops, such as would appear to the right of the body portion 10" of the fabric shown in Figure 5, are formed by abnormally slackening the corresponding yarns as each fast pick is beat up.
  • the ends of the filling are withdrawn into the fabric away from its opposite edges and a protective abrasion resistant thread or yarn is provided on the outermost edge of each selvage, which abrasion resistant thread is described heretofore as a catch cord and is drawn slightly' into the selvage by the filling on each return pick.
  • the invention While weakness in resistance to edge abrasion is the principal factor which the invention seeks to improve, the invention also provides an uniquemeans for improving reistanceto both edge and surface abrasin whenever those selvage warp ends, such as warp ends 2W through 6W, in association with the abrasive resistant catch cord C are also made of abrasive resistant yarns.
  • selvage portion 11 having both edge and surface labrasive resistance.v While all of the selvage warp ends in the improved selvage, such as warp ends 2W through 9W, could be made of abrasive resistant yarns, it is preferable where surface abrasive resistance isy desired to have only those warp ends associated with the catchV cord, such as warp ends 2W through 6W, be of an abrasive resistant yarn, such as nylon, in order'to minimize the use of dissimilar materials such as nylon and cotton.
  • Various types of yarns may be used for the catch cord whose resistance to abrasion is substantially higher than that of the filling yarns.
  • Such yarns may be formed by varying the amount of twist therein, varying the materials, using various combinations of fibers in making the catch vcord, by physical compacting, by physical treatment of the fibers prior to spinning the yarn or by usual types of chemical treatments.
  • the catch cord may bemade in any manner or form in which it possessesl a substantially higher resistance to abrasion than that of the filling yarns.
  • Nylon a synthetic linear polymer, is one of the best known fibers exhibiting re sista-nce to abrasion.
  • the acrylic and polyester fibers exhibit the same marked resistance to abrasion particularly in comparison to the relatively poor-abrasion resistance ofcotton, As an example, outstanding results have been obtained from a terry towel woven according to thepresent invention by usi-ng a 10 count singles cotv ton yarn for the filling; 2() count, 2-ply yyarns for the warss, and V20 count, 2-ply spun nylon for each catch cor
  • the vcatch cord of each form of the invention should be either slightly over-fed relative to the warps, or it should be made from a material having a relatively high degree of stretch, such as spun nylon.
  • Overfeeding may be effected by loosely beaming the catch cord; by means of a geared over feed of the catch cor'd, or by any other of the methods well known in the art.
  • the overfeeding or slackening be carried out during the fast pick. It is apparent that the tension in the filling yarns must exceed the tension in the catch cord during the slight drawing in of the catch cord at each of the selvages.
  • the appearance of fabrics made according to the present invention may be enhanced to identify articles made according to the present invention by making the catch cord of a colored yarn or by making the catch cord of some material having a particularly noticeable characteristic such as a knotty surface or the like or by making the filling of unique character to emphasize the fact that the filling does not extend tothe edges.
  • washing tests were conducted in which five terry towels of the usual household type, and having the conventional type selvages in whichv a cotton filling loops around the outermost warp, were placed in a bottom-agitator type washing machine along with five ktowels of identical construction except for be '7 ing provided with the improved selvages of the presentinvention.
  • Both types of towels had lling of lOcount singles cotton yarn and the five improved towels had a 20 ⁇ count; 2-ply spun nylon for the catch cord at each selvage thereof.
  • Each washing test was carried out using water at 140 F. The washing machine was run at twenty-minute cycles.
  • the simplicity and adaptability of the weave and the method to the conventional textile mill are the simplicity and adaptability of the weave and the method to the conventional textile mill.
  • the invention provides through a unique combination of method, weave and fibers a selvage which surpasses in useful life any selvage that the towel industry in particular has ever known.
  • the new weaveand method require only' modest changes in the conventional system of selvage manufacture, the benefits of the invention may be easily and simply obtained in textile products with little effect on the quality of the product or the cost of manufacture.
  • Another advantage of this invention lies in the fact that the fabric designer, has a greater choice of filling which can be used in the fabric.
  • the filling must be able to withstand edge abrasion since the-filling loops around the outermost warp.
  • the fabric designer since the filling is not exposed to edge abrasion, the fabric designer does not have to take into consideration the abrasion resistance of the filling and he is, therefore, given greater freedom in using the different varieties of natural and artificial filling yarns that are available.
  • An improved woven fabric and selvage comprising interwoven warp, filling and catch cord yarns, the catch cord yarn having an abrasive resistance substantially greater than that of the filling yarns, the catch cord yarns extending generally weftwise of the fabric adjacent opposite longitudinal edges thereof and being interwoven with a few warp yarns adjacent each selvage in a sinuous manner, the catch cord yarns each being looped about the corresponding outermost warp yarns at spaced intervals and being looped through loops formed from outgoing and ingoing filling yarns extending through the same shed between said intervals and at points spaced in wardly from the corresponding selvage edge of the fabric whereby ther-.outermost selvage'edge wear is confined to portions of said catch cord yarns.
  • catch cord yarn is of a color contrasting to that of the warp and lling yarns.
  • catch cord yarn is of a characteristic having an appearance differentffrom that of the warp and filling yarns for purposes of identification.
  • catch cord yarn is madefrom a material having a greater stretchability than that of the warp and filling yarns.
  • A' structure accordinglto claim l wherein the catch cord yarnand warp yarns are of different character than the weft .yarns enabling identification of the points at which the catchlcord yarn is looped through the filling arns.
  • y 8 A structure according to claim 1 wherein the abrasive resistance of the catch cord yarn and the abrasive resistance-of at least,those few warp yarns with which the catch cord yarn yis interwoven are substantially the same.
  • An improved household fabric for washing, drying and similar purposes comprising interwoven warp and filling yarns, the voutermost of said warp yarns at each selvage of the fabric having a substantially high resistance'to abrasive wear and being looped through loops formed by adjacent filling yarns at points removed from the edgesV of the fabric, the adjacent runs formed .by looping each ofthe outermost warp yarns through loops formed by adjacent filling yarns being in the same shed, and said outermost of said warp yarns also being looped about the next adjacent outermost warp yarns and being interwoven with those warp yarns between said points and the outside edgeof the selvage thus formed whereby the loops of Ysaid filling yarns are protected from edge abrasion.
  • a yfabric comprising Vinterwoven warp yarns and filling yarns, Ithe filling yarns extending partially across the width ofthe fabric, a catch cord yarn looped through loops formed by adjacent filling yarns at each selvage in spaced ⁇ relation to the outer edges of the selvages, said catch cord yarns each traversing a group of warp yarns extending' -between the looped end portions of said filling yarns and the adjacent outer edge of the fabric and reversing around the outermost yarns of each group of such warp yarns, the adjacent traversing portions of the catch cord yarn looped through said loops of adjacent filling yarns extending in the same shed, and said catch cord yarn in each instance, having a substantially high abrasive resistance as' compared to that of at least the filling yarns.
  • a fabric comprising interwoven warps and filling yarns, the filling yarn extending partially across the width of the fabric, loops formed of adjacent picks of filling yarn extending about at least one of the warps spaced inwardly from at least one of the edges of the fabric, a catch cord-of yarn having a relatively high resistance to'abrasion relative to the filling yarn, said catch cord extending through at least one of said loops formed of adjacent picks in keach instance and extending outwardly from said loop through a common shed formed of corresponding -warps, the warps forming the latter shed being reversed adjacent the portions of the catch cord extending outwardly from said loop, and the outer extremitiesof the last-named portions each being curved away from the other of said last-named portions about the outermost of the corresponding warps and then in# wardly and thereby forming another of said portions, this being repeated throughout a substantial length of fabric.
  • an improved selvage on at least one longitudinal edge portion of the fabric comprising a relatively few selvage warps, at least one generally warpwisc extending selvage reinforcing yarn having a relatively high degree of residual stretch and abrasive resistance, certain of the selvage warps extending over a pair of weftwise extending runs of said reinforcing yarn at each of alternately spaced intervals, with other selvage warps passing beneath said pair of weftwise extending runs of the reinforcing yarn at each of said alternately spaced intervals, said certain selvage warps extending beneath another pair of adjacent weftwise extending runs of the reinforcing yarn at each intervening interval between said spaced intervals with said other selvage warps extending over said other pair of weftwise extending runs of the reinforcing yarn at each intervening interval whereby said reinforcing yarn extends in a substantially zigzag path along said selvage warps, at least one generally warpwisc
  • An improved woven terry fabric comprising a body woven from warp and lling yarns with the warp yarns forming terry loops, at least one side of the fabric having a selvage comprising warp yarns and a catch cord yarn interwoven with said lling yarns, said catch cord yarn having an abrasive resistance substantially greater than that of the filling yarns, the catch cord yarn extending generally weftwise of the fabric adjacent the corresponding longitudinal edge thereof and being interwoven with a few of the latter warp yarns adjacent the corresponding selvage in a sinuous manner, the catch cord yarn being'looped about the corresponding outermost warp yarns at spaced intervals and ibeing looped through loops formed from outgoing and ngoing filling yarns extending through the same shed between said intervals and at points spaced inwardly from the corresponding selvage edge of the fabric whereby the outer most selvage edge wear is confined to portions of said catch cord yarn.

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Description

Nov. 10, 1959 M. A. LAw 2,912,015
WEAR RESISTANT SALVAGR RoR wovEN FABRICS Filed .July 1o, 1957 2 sheets-sheet 1 Il IO Nov. 10, 1959 M. A, LAW 2,912,015
WEAR RESISTANT sALvAGE PoR wovEN FABRICS Filed July 10, 1957 2 sheets-sheet 2 MARVIN A. LAW
INVENTOR BY 015, wl,
ATTORNEYS United States Patent O WEAR RESISTANl` SELVAGE FOR WOVEN FABRICS Marvin A. Law, Leaksville, N.C., assignor' to IFieldcrest Mills, Inc., Rockingham, N.C., a corporation vof Delaware Application July '10, 1957, Serial No. 670,922
14 Claims. (Cl. 139-4383) This invention relates to woven fabrics and, more especially, to an improved selvage construction and method of making the same.
It is well known that the edges of yfabrics subject to hard usage, such as towels, wash cloths, spinning tapes and the like, general-ly become worn and frayed and are, thus, easily torn, long before the body of such fabrics show any signs of wear. Such fabrics are made from relatively low cost cotton or similar yarns which, in the instance of terry fabrics, provided soft yieldable and absorbent loops. In the selvages of such fabrics, the 4soft cotton yarns are subject to abrasion and easily become worn or frayed, or even broken, at the extreme edges of the fabric where the filling loops around the outermost warp yarns.
While the useful life of such fabrics is increased considerably by using a more abrasive resistant filling yarn, such as spun nylon or other synthetic yarn, or one which is more tightly twisted or has a smoother surface than cotton or similar yarn throughout the width of the fabric, such yarns are relatively expensive to the extent that the additional wear-resistant characteristics of the selvages of finished articles produced therefrom do not compensate forthe higher cost of such filling. Also, when nylon or other abrasive resistant synthetic yarn is used for filling, it Aproduces undesirable static, a rough hand or feel, and relatively low absorbency in the fabric, leading to an impractical selvage and Ifabric.
Known constructions for improving selvage resistance to surface abrasion include the practicesof making the selvage warps out ofV abrasive resistant yarns or increasing the number of warps per unit width of selvage. However, these steps only improve surface abrasion resistance and neither has any effect on Iedge abrasion resistance or the average useful life of the selvage since, in either construction, the outermost loops of the cotton filling remain exposed to edge abrasion and because of the fact that it is the `fibers in such filling loops that are most apt to wear first in the selvage. Furthermore, the use of a considerable num-ber or the use of abrasive resistant selvage warp yarns, usually in the form of nylon or the like, introduces factors of high cost, undesirable hand or feel, and static which make such selvages generally impractical.
It is, therefore, a principal object of this invention to provide a relatively inexpensive and long wearing selvage for application to fabrics subject to considerable wear on the edges.
It is another object to provide in a selvage having a relatively easily abraded filling, protection for the outermost turns or loops of the filling obtained by weaving theY same in from the edge of the selvage.
It isA another object to obtain a vastly improved selvage by providing in the outermost exposed edge only of a selvage, materials having a substantially high resistance to edge abrasion.
' It is a more specific object of this invention to provide in a woven fabric whose weft or filling yarns are predominantly of cotton or other relatively soft fibrous inaterial, a selvage formed from a wap yarn catch cord, catch thread or catch yarn extending generally weft`rv wise made from a material which is relatively highly resistant to wear, as compared to the weft yarns, suchas nylon and the like, with the catch cord being interwoven with a Yfew of the warp yarns at each selvage of the fabric and looped around the outermost of the warp yarns, in each instance, with the end portions of; the weft yarns being looped through loops in the catch cord at points spaced inwardly from the extreme outer edges of the fabric.
Some of the objects of the invention having been stated, other objects will appear as the description proceeds when' taken in connection with the accompanying drawings, in whichkFigure 1 is a greatly enlarged fragmentary plan view of one edge section of fabric illustrating one form of the improved selvage such as may be used with a flat-woven fabric; V
Figure 2 is a chart of the pattern employed lon a pattern means, such as a pattern chain, for control of the heddles or other shed-forming means for producing the fabric of Figure l;
Figure 3 is a view similar to Figure 1 showing a second form of the improved selvage such as may be used with a terry weave;
Figure 4 is a chart similar to that of Figure 2 and showing the pattern for producing the portion of fabric shown in Figure 3;
Figure 5 is another view similar to Figure 1 illustrating a third form of selvage particularly adapted for use with a terry weave;
Figure 6 is another view similar to Figure 2 illustrating the pattern for manipulation of the warp yarns forv or interwoven with a selvage-reinforcing yarn or catch,
cord which, prior to weaving, extends substantially paralf lel to, but is'under lesser tension than, or isi-made from a more resilient yarn than, the adjacent warp yarns. Thus, as each successive weft yarn is looped about the catch cord and returns through the shed, it pulls the clatch cord inwardly therewith to form substantially weftwise runs from the catch cord which is also looped over the outermost of the normally tensioned warp yarns and through looped corresponding ends of immediately preceding and succeeding weft or filler yarns whereby the looped filling ends are hidden with respect to the outer selvage edges of the fabric.
The first form of the invention shown in Figure l is embodied in an edge section of fabric including a body portion 10, which for purposes of illustration is shown as a plain weave, and a selvage portion 11. The terms, body portion and selvage portion, are used as reference terms for the purpose of ldescribing the invention. As is well known, the combined body portion 10 and selvage portionil would in some fabrics constitute what is customarily referred to as the selvage of the fabric whereas in other fabrics the selvage portion 11 alone might constitute the entire so-called selvage and the body portion 10, a part of the so-called body of the fabric.l The selvage portion 11 may be provided at each side of the fabric or body portion 10 and, since the selvage may be constructed in the same manner at each longitudinal side edge of the fabric, only one of the selvages 11 is shown in Figure 1. The section shown in Figure 1 includes a plurality of warp yarns 2W through 9W with the warp yarns 6W through 9W, and similar warp yarns extending to the opposite border of the fabric, not shown, interwoven with successive repeats of weft yarns 1-F, 2F, 3F and 4F. The yarns heretofore described may be made from cotton or in the form of other soft, absorbent or relatively inexpensive yarn.
YThe warp yarns 2W through 6W forming the selvage portion 11 are interwoven with a generally weftwise extending catch-cord, reinforcing warp yarn "or catch thread C which in the lpattern chart shown in Figure 2, is illustrated as they rst warp yarn in the left-hand selvage of the fabric. The catch cord may be in the forni of a single textile strand or a plurality of parallel or twisted strands, and is necessarily more resistant to wear than are the filling yarns from which the fabric body is made. It has been found most desirable to use a nylon or other synthetic yarn for the catch cord C. In the weaving `of the first form of fabric'the'catch cord is maintained under relatively lesser tension than that of the regular Warp yarns such as 2W through 9W or it is over-fed relative to the regular warp yarns, or it is made from a more resilient material than the other yarns.
In the weaving of each repeat, such as that embraced by the bracket A in Figures l and 2, the weft or ller yarn l-F is inserted through the shed formed of the warp yarns from right to left, and it will be noted that alternate warps 2W, 4W, 6W and 8W are up while intervening warps 3W, 5W,'7W and 9W are down. At this time, the catch cord C is also down and, although it may be under relatively light tension, it would then extend adjacent, or to the left of, the outermost selvage warp yarn 2W. The yarn or filling end forming the pick l-F is then looped around the catch cord C as the pick 2F is formed from left to right in Figure l.
During the insertion of the pick 2F from left to right, the selvage warp yarns 2W, 3W, 4W and 5W, at least, remain in the same position that they occupied during insertion of the pick 1-F so that, as the pick 2F is drawn through the shed, the slack is taken up in the catch cord C as it is drawn into the fabric by the looped picks l-F and 2F. Thus, the catch cord C is formed into lateral or weftwise runs by the pull of the corresponding weft yarns. The extent to which the catch cord C is drawn into the fabric will, of course, vary with the amount of tensionrpreent in the catch cord C or the amount of residual stretch therein as compared to the tension in or stretchability of theassociated filler yarns. Although the warp yarns 2W through 9W remain in the same position in the forming of the second pick 2F of each repeat, it will be noted that the catch cord C is raised so the pick strand 2F passes beneath the catch cord C to insure that the filling ends or weft yarns l-F and 2F are looped, at their juncture, around the catch cord C. The position of the body warps, such as 6W, 7W, 8W and 9W may be varied, however, since the openshed need be maintained constant, with alternate pairs of picks, lwith respect to selvage warps only.
In forming the picks 3F and 4F alternatewarps are down and intervening warps are up or, inother words, they occupy positions opposite from that which they occupied in forming the picksl-F and 2F. However, in order that 4the catch cordC is looped about the outermost warp 2W and then looped around the loop formed at the juncture of the picks 3F. and 4F, it will be noted that the catch cord is lowered at the third pick 3F and is raised at the fourth pick 4F. Thus, the catch cord is raised or is up during alternate picks and is down during intervening picks while alternate Warp yarns are up during alternate pairs'of picks' and are down during intervening pairs of picks between'said alternate pairs, the
v 4 reverse taking place with respect to intervening warp yarns.
It is apparent that the selvage portion 11 may include a greater number of warp yarns than are shown in Figure 1 and that the selvage warp yarns 3W, 4W, and 5W need not necessarily be formed as single strands. In other words, the warp yarns in the selvage portion 11 may each represent a plurality of yarns without departing from the spirit of the invention.
Second form ofVselvage construction The improved selvage may be constructed in the manner described with respect to Figures l and 2 in the weaving of terry fabrics. However, due to the fact that the terry fabrics have spaced fast picks in which preceding groups of picks are beat up by the fast picks to form the terry loops, it has been found desirable in practice that the iilling ends in each of such groups ,or at least one end preceding eachvfast pick be in the same shed. Thus, the fabric section in Figure A3, which is shown diagrammatically in Figure 4, includes a body portion 10' ahd a selvage portion 11' and is shown as having six picks 1-F'` andy 2F through 6F in each repeat, there being warp yarns 2W through 9W shown in Figure 3. It will be noted that, in order to form the terry loops and-to insure that the fast picks beat against an open shed, the picks 1-F, 2F', 3F and 4F are -all in the same shed; that is, alternate groups of -warps 2W', 4W', 6W' and 8W are up and the intervening warps or groups of warps 3W', 5W', 7W and 9W are down during the forming of the first four picksin each repeat A.
As is the case in the rst form of the invention, the catch cord C is down and up in alternation so that it is looped through the looped end portions of adjacent portions of picks and drawn into the fabric by the filling. The last two picks 5F and 6F in each repeat are formed with the warps occupying the opposite position from that which they occupy during the forming of the four picks 1-F and 2F so that the picks 5F and 6F are actually formed in the same manner as each alternate pair of picks in the fabric section shown in Figure 1. This forms `the catch cord C with relatively large loops 15, hidden'in the fabric, to which relatively large groups of weft yarns are connected with spaced pairs of outer loops 16 being looped around the outermost warp 2W'. It is apparent that the fast picks 3F and 6F in each repeat are so termed because the extent of forward movement of the loom reed with a beat-up stroke isl greater at `the picks 3F and 6F in each repeat than it is at each of the intervening or other picks 'so as to bunch up slackened warp yarns and form terry loops therefrom.
Since the catch cord C' is relatively slack as compared to the weft yarns and the -warp yarns with which itis woven, or is made of a material having a relatively high degree of residual stretch such as spun nylon, so the looped ends of the weft lyarns of each repeat are hidden in the fabric, it is sometimes desirable to use a stationary false warpwise strand or wire about which corresponding ends of lthe weft yarns are looped as they draw 'the catch cord into the 'fabric' so the looped portions of ladjacent picks of weft yarn are maintained in substantially warpwise alinement until fully secured in the weave after which they are beaten off the wire by thereed. This method is well known in the art as a wire selvage. The looped portions of adjacent weft yarns may also be maintained in alinement Vby other well known means Isuch yas a pick feeler or crow hopper set into the selvage. Resort to some form of aligning means such as that described -results in a neater looking selvage although it is not a requirement for practicing the invention.
Third form of selvage Y l The third form of selvage is embodiedin the fabric section shown in Figures 5, 6 and 7 and differs from the form shown in Figures 3 and 4 'in that the connecting looped ends of adjacent weft yarns are attached to the fabric at the juncture of the selvage and body portions so as to obviate the necessity of using a "wire*selvagc such as that heretofore described, in which the wire or false warpwise thread need be removed after the fabric is woven. Therefore, all the various elements shown in Figures 5 and 6 will bear the same reference characters as like elements shown in Figures 3 and 4 with the double-prime notation added to the whole numerals where applicable and with the double-primevnotatio'n substituted for the prime notation where applicable, in order to avoid repetitive description. Y
vThe structure shown in Figure 5 also differs from that shown in Figure 3 in that the fast picks 3F" and 6F occur in a different sequence relative to the pairs of outer catch cord loops 16" than do the fast picks 3F' andrF relative to the catch cord loops 16. However, this is merely incidental, since the relationship of the fast picks with respect to the remainder of the yarns may be varied as desired in weaving of terry fabrics; remembering that the fast picks are preferably in the same shed ilnwhich at least one preceding pick is present. It will be noted that in the weaving of the second Iform of fabric,y the filling ends or weft yarns l-F', 2F and 3F are in the same shed, in each instance, `and the fillingv end 5F is .in the same shed as the fast-pick filling end 6F.
' V*On the other hand, in weaving the terry fabric shown in Figure S, the filling end or pick 2F appears in the same shed as the fast pick 3F in each repeat, and the filling ends 5F and 6F appear in the same shed as the fast-pick filling end 6F in each repeat.
Now it will be noted that the last two warps at each side of the body of the fabric, such as the warps 6W and 7W in Figure 5 serve as stop cords; that is the looped portions of certain spaced adjacent pairs of filling ends, such as the filling ends 1- and 2F in each repeat A, are looped about the warp 6W and certain other spaced adjacent pairs of filling ends, such as 3F and 4F" in each repeat, are looped about the warp 7W. It will be noted that a portion of the body portion 10 shown in Figure 5 is ina plain weave to the extent that the weft yarns are maintained under substantially the same tension as the warp yarns 2W through 5Wl during weaving so as to provide a substantial firmly woven area between the selvage portion and the looped portion of the fabric. It is well known that terry loops, such as would appear to the right of the body portion 10" of the fabric shown in Figure 5, are formed by abnormally slackening the corresponding yarns as each fast pick is beat up.
This is also true with respect to the fabric section shown in Figure 3. As a matter of fact, the difference in :appearance between the fabrics shown in Figures 3 and 5 cannot be detected with the naked eye. Thus, the general appearance of each of the selvages shown in Figures 3 and 5 is substantially the same.
Summary of the invention While described principally in connection with terry fabrics, it should be understood that the invention has application Vto any fabric having a selvage exposed to edge abrasion such as in spinning tapes, fabric belts, handkerchiefs and the life. vIn each'form of the fabric disclosed herein, it will be noted that the weave hides the ends of the filling at least slightly within the' fabric, thus causing the wear on the extreme edges of the selvage to bear against some fiber other than the filling, since the usual cotton filling, for example, has a relatively poor wear or abrasive resistance. `To this end, the ends of the filling are withdrawn into the fabric away from its opposite edges and a protective abrasion resistant thread or yarn is provided on the outermost edge of each selvage, which abrasion resistant thread is described heretofore as a catch cord and is drawn slightly' into the selvage by the filling on each return pick.
VIn order that the catch cord, in each instance, is drawn into the fabric with eachreturn pick, the shed in at leastl the selvage portion is the same during the insertion of an outgoing pick as it is during the insertion of the inimcdiately subsequent ingoing pick. In other words, *selvage warps should remain the same during picking into theselvage as they were during the immediately preceding picking out of the selvage.
While weakness in resistance to edge abrasion is the principal factor which the invention seeks to improve, the invention also provides an uniquemeans for improving reistanceto both edge and surface abrasin whenever those selvage warp ends, such as warp ends 2W through 6W, in association with the abrasive resistant catch cord C are also made of abrasive resistant yarns. Thus, on the outermost edge of the fabric there would be presented a selvage portion 11 having both edge and surface labrasive resistance.v While all of the selvage warp ends in the improved selvage, such as warp ends 2W through 9W, could be made of abrasive resistant yarns, it is preferable where surface abrasive resistance isy desired to have only those warp ends associated with the catchV cord, such as warp ends 2W through 6W, be of an abrasive resistant yarn, such as nylon, in order'to minimize the use of dissimilar materials such as nylon and cotton.
Various types of yarns may be used for the catch cord whose resistance to abrasion is substantially higher than that of the filling yarns. Such yarns may be formed by varying the amount of twist therein, varying the materials, using various combinations of fibers in making the catch vcord, by physical compacting, by physical treatment of the fibers prior to spinning the yarn or by usual types of chemical treatments. In other words, the catch cord may bemade in any manner or form in which it possessesl a substantially higher resistance to abrasion than that of the filling yarns. Nylon, a synthetic linear polymer, is one of the best known fibers exhibiting re sista-nce to abrasion. Certain of the acrylic and polyester fibers exhibit the same marked resistance to abrasion particularly in comparison to the relatively poor-abrasion resistance ofcotton, As an example, outstanding results have been obtained from a terry towel woven according to thepresent invention by usi-ng a 10 count singles cotv ton yarn for the filling; 2() count, 2-ply yyarns for the warss, and V20 count, 2-ply spun nylon for each catch cor As heretofore stated, the vcatch cord of each form of the invention should be either slightly over-fed relative to the warps, or it should be made from a material having a relatively high degree of stretch, such as spun nylon. Overfeeding may be effected by loosely beaming the catch cord; by means of a geared over feed of the catch cor'd, or by any other of the methods well known in the art. When the invention is applied to a terry weave, it is preferable that the overfeeding or slackening be carried out during the fast pick. It is apparent that the tension in the filling yarns must exceed the tension in the catch cord during the slight drawing in of the catch cord at each of the selvages. v
The appearance of fabrics made according to the present invention may be enhanced to identify articles made according to the present invention by making the catch cord of a colored yarn or by making the catch cord of some material having a particularly noticeable characteristic such as a knotty surface or the like or by making the filling of unique character to emphasize the fact that the filling does not extend tothe edges.
In order to prove the advantages of fabrics made ac-V cording to the present invention, washing tests were conducted in which five terry towels of the usual household type, and having the conventional type selvages in whichv a cotton filling loops around the outermost warp, were placed in a bottom-agitator type washing machine along with five ktowels of identical construction except for be '7 ing provided with the improved selvages of the presentinvention.A Both types of towels had lling of lOcount singles cotton yarn and the five improved towels had a 20` count; 2-ply spun nylon for the catch cord at each selvage thereof. Each washing test .was carried out using water at 140 F. The washing machine was run at twenty-minute cycles. The five conventional towels, which were not provided with the improved selvage, were all severely damaged in a number of` places at the selvages upon 312,cycle's of the washing machine, whereas the five towels provided with the improved selvage'were subjected to 752 cycles inthe washing machine whereupon only one of the five towels having the improved selvage had a minor selvage defect.
In another test, two conventional terry cloth towels of the institutional type were Washed with two improved terry cloth towels of the institutional type. The improved towels were provided with catch cords made from 12 count, 2-ply spun nylon, and all four towels had a filling of 9.90 singles cotton. The conventional towels were severely damaged at the selvages upon the completion of 140 washing cycles such as were defined heretofore, whereas the ,improved towels showed no signs of wear at the selvages upon the completion of 380 washing cycles. This particular test was concludedupon the-completion of 380 washing cycles of the improved towels only'because the border hems at opposite ends of the towels, transversely of the selvages, were sufficiently worn to make the towels unserviceable.
Among the principal advantages of this invention are the simplicity and adaptability of the weave and the method to the conventional textile mill. The invention provides through a unique combination of method, weave and fibers a selvage which surpasses in useful life any selvage that the towel industry in particular has ever known. At the same time, since the new weaveand method require only' modest changes in the conventional system of selvage manufacture, the benefits of the invention may be easily and simply obtained in textile products with little effect on the quality of the product or the cost of manufacture.
Another advantage of this invention lies in the fact that the fabric designer, has a greater choice of filling which can be used in the fabric. As is well known, in a terry towel, for example, the filling must be able to withstand edge abrasion since the-filling loops around the outermost warp. In many instances, it would be prefer-` able to use as the filling types of cotton, for example, which are not necessarily resistant to abrasion but which are cheaper in cost, of a better hand, more absorbent or softer. With the invention, since the filling is not exposed to edge abrasion, the fabric designer does not have to take into consideration the abrasion resistance of the filling and he is, therefore, given greater freedom in using the different varieties of natural and artificial filling yarns that are available.
In the drawings and specification there has been set forth a preferred embodiment of the invention and, although specific terms are employed, they are used in a generic and descriptive sense only and not for purposes of limitation, the scope of the invention being defined in the claims.
I claim:
1. An improved woven fabric and selvage comprising interwoven warp, filling and catch cord yarns, the catch cord yarn having an abrasive resistance substantially greater than that of the filling yarns, the catch cord yarns extending generally weftwise of the fabric adjacent opposite longitudinal edges thereof and being interwoven with a few warp yarns adjacent each selvage in a sinuous manner, the catch cord yarns each being looped about the corresponding outermost warp yarns at spaced intervals and being looped through loops formed from outgoing and ingoing filling yarns extending through the same shed between said intervals and at points spaced in wardly from the corresponding selvage edge of the fabric whereby ther-.outermost selvage'edge wear is confined to portions of said catch cord yarns.
2. A structure according toclaim11 wherein the catch cordy'arn is ofthe same material' and substantially the same twist as that of the warp yarns. v
3. A structure yaccording to claim 1 whereinl the said catch cord yarn is made from an articial fiber exhibiting substantial resistance to abrasion.'
4. A structure according to claim l, wherein the catch cord yarn is of a color contrasting to that of the warp and lling yarns.
5. Astructure according to claim 1 wherein the catch cord yarn is of a characteristic having an appearance differentffrom that of the warp and filling yarns for purposes of identification.
6. A structure according to claim 1 wherein the catch cord yarn is madefrom a material having a greater stretchability than that of the warp and filling yarns.
7. A' structure accordinglto claim l wherein the catch cord yarnand warp yarns are of different character than the weft .yarns enabling identification of the points at which the catchlcord yarn is looped through the filling arns. y 8. A structure according to claim 1 wherein the abrasive resistance of the catch cord yarn and the abrasive resistance-of at least,those few warp yarns with which the catch cord yarn yis interwoven are substantially the same.
9. An improved household fabric for washing, drying and similar purposes comprising interwoven warp and filling yarns, the voutermost of said warp yarns at each selvage of the fabric having a substantially high resistance'to abrasive wear and being looped through loops formed by adjacent filling yarns at points removed from the edgesV of the fabric, the adjacent runs formed .by looping each ofthe outermost warp yarns through loops formed by adjacent filling yarns being in the same shed, and said outermost of said warp yarns also being looped about the next adjacent outermost warp yarns and being interwoven with those warp yarns between said points and the outside edgeof the selvage thus formed whereby the loops of Ysaid filling yarns are protected from edge abrasion.
l0. A yfabric comprising Vinterwoven warp yarns and filling yarns, Ithe filling yarns extending partially across the width ofthe fabric, a catch cord yarn looped through loops formed by adjacent filling yarns at each selvage in spaced `relation to the outer edges of the selvages, said catch cord yarns each traversing a group of warp yarns extending' -between the looped end portions of said filling yarns and the adjacent outer edge of the fabric and reversing around the outermost yarns of each group of such warp yarns, the adjacent traversing portions of the catch cord yarn looped through said loops of adjacent filling yarns extending in the same shed, and said catch cord yarn in each instance, having a substantially high abrasive resistance as' compared to that of at least the filling yarns.
111. A fabric comprising interwoven warps and filling yarns, the filling yarn extending partially across the width of the fabric, loops formed of adjacent picks of filling yarn extending about at least one of the warps spaced inwardly from at least one of the edges of the fabric, a catch cord-of yarn having a relatively high resistance to'abrasion relative to the filling yarn, said catch cord extending through at least one of said loops formed of adjacent picks in keach instance and extending outwardly from said loop through a common shed formed of corresponding -warps, the warps forming the latter shed being reversed adjacent the portions of the catch cord extending outwardly from said loop, and the outer extremitiesof the last-named portions each being curved away from the other of said last-named portions about the outermost of the corresponding warps and then in# wardly and thereby forming another of said portions, this being repeated throughout a substantial length of fabric.
12. In a fabric having interwoven warp and filling yarns, an improved selvage on at least one longitudinal edge portion of the fabric comprising a relatively few selvage warps, at least one generally warpwisc extending selvage reinforcing yarn having a relatively high degree of residual stretch and abrasive resistance, certain of the selvage warps extending over a pair of weftwise extending runs of said reinforcing yarn at each of alternately spaced intervals, with other selvage warps passing beneath said pair of weftwise extending runs of the reinforcing yarn at each of said alternately spaced intervals, said certain selvage warps extending beneath another pair of adjacent weftwise extending runs of the reinforcing yarn at each intervening interval between said spaced intervals with said other selvage warps extending over said other pair of weftwise extending runs of the reinforcing yarn at each intervening interval whereby said reinforcing yarn extends in a substantially zigzag path along said selvage, said reinforcing yarn being connected to corresponding filling yarns at points removed from the fabric edge and being looped partially around the outermost of said selvage warps whereby the reinforcing yarn provides a wearing surface for the edge of the fabric.
13. An improved woven terry fabric comprising a body woven from warp and lling yarns with the warp yarns forming terry loops, at least one side of the fabric having a selvage comprising warp yarns and a catch cord yarn interwoven with said lling yarns, said catch cord yarn having an abrasive resistance substantially greater than that of the filling yarns, the catch cord yarn extending generally weftwise of the fabric adjacent the corresponding longitudinal edge thereof and being interwoven with a few of the latter warp yarns adjacent the corresponding selvage in a sinuous manner, the catch cord yarn being'looped about the corresponding outermost warp yarns at spaced intervals and ibeing looped through loops formed from outgoing and ngoing filling yarns extending through the same shed between said intervals and at points spaced inwardly from the corresponding selvage edge of the fabric whereby the outer most selvage edge wear is confined to portions of said catch cord yarn. 4
14. A structure according to claim 13 wherein said catch cord yarn is made from nylon.
France May 28, 1929
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Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3186442A (en) * 1961-09-07 1965-06-01 Gale Harold Graeme Apparatus and method for forming a decorative fringe
US20050002926A1 (en) * 2000-11-28 2005-01-06 Medimmune, Inc. Methods of administering/dosing anti-RSV antibodies for prophylaxis and treatment

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AT74916B (en) * 1914-04-04 1918-11-11 Firmen Bernhard Roos Puttee.
FR666787A (en) * 1928-03-30 1929-10-05 Process for weaving industrial products resulting therefrom, and improvements to the looms required by the implementation of this process
US1763074A (en) * 1928-08-30 1930-06-10 Russell Mfg Co Fabric
US2546857A (en) * 1949-12-17 1951-03-27 Grace William Covering fabric for umbrellas
US2612190A (en) * 1949-01-27 1952-09-30 Edward H Hall Paper mill felt

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* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE126556C (en) *
AT74916B (en) * 1914-04-04 1918-11-11 Firmen Bernhard Roos Puttee.
FR666787A (en) * 1928-03-30 1929-10-05 Process for weaving industrial products resulting therefrom, and improvements to the looms required by the implementation of this process
US1763074A (en) * 1928-08-30 1930-06-10 Russell Mfg Co Fabric
US2612190A (en) * 1949-01-27 1952-09-30 Edward H Hall Paper mill felt
US2546857A (en) * 1949-12-17 1951-03-27 Grace William Covering fabric for umbrellas

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3186442A (en) * 1961-09-07 1965-06-01 Gale Harold Graeme Apparatus and method for forming a decorative fringe
US20050002926A1 (en) * 2000-11-28 2005-01-06 Medimmune, Inc. Methods of administering/dosing anti-RSV antibodies for prophylaxis and treatment

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