KR100257338B1 - Manufacturing method of elastic property fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE: A method for preparing bidirectionally flexible fabric having a bidirectional flexibility of more than 30% and an elastic recovering rate of more than 95% through suitable fabric design without using expensive warpers is provided, thereby producing the titled fabric at low cost. CONSTITUTION: This fabric is prepared by using polyester yarn as effect yarn and polyurethane-based elastic yarn as core yarn, wherein a covering yarn is produced by drawing a core yarn without twisting and twisting an effect yarn at 400-1,500TPM and weaving using the yarn as warp thread and weft thread in a density rate of warp thread to weft thread of 1.0 to 1.8.

Description

Manufacturing method of bi-directional stretch fabric with excellent elasticity

The present invention relates to a method for producing bidirectional stretch fabric having excellent elasticity using polyurethane elastic yarn and polyester fiber.

Looking at the manufacturing method of the stretch fabric so far, as known in Korea Patent Publication No. 92-25482, the method using the twisted yarn has a problem that the elasticity is lowered due to the limitation of elasticity of the twisted yarn, the elastic recovery rate is low.

In addition, a method using polybutylene terephthalate-based elastic fibers is known, but in this case, in particular, in the manufacturing process of warp, most of the process must be subjected to a sizing process. And it is pointed out that it is not suitable for the part that is easy to generate the oblique line due to the difficult temperature control, and also has a low elastic recovery rate.

In addition, the method of manufacturing a bidirectional stretch fabric by mixing polyurethane elastic yarn and polyester could not uniformly control the torque generated in a large number of inclined Hanbon Hanbon. Could not.

In order to solve this problem, the method of adjusting the tension of the warp using a special warp machine that can control the tension of the Hanbon Hanbon of the covered yarn has a disadvantage of expensive manufacturing cost since the warp machine is expensive.

The present invention is a method for producing a bi-directional stretch fabric having an elastic recovery of more than 30% and more than 95% elasticity at a low manufacturing cost through an appropriate fabric design (twist of yarn and warp, weft density) without using an expensive warp machine The purpose is to provide.

The present invention is to produce a yarn by using a polyester fiber as an effect yarn and a polyurethane-based elastic yarn in order to be able to manufacture a bi-directional stretch fabric having a stretch recovery of at least 30% and an elastic recovery rate of at least 95%. Urethane elastic yarns must be twisted so that twisting does not occur since the elasticity decreases severely when they are twisted. In other words, the rotation was used so that the screening was stretched and the effect yarn was only wrapped around the yarn while the yarn was made by remodeling a conventional twister.

The polyester fiber used as the effect yarn in the present invention is suitable for the mono 0.4 denier level, and the polyurethane-based elastic yarn used as the screening is suitable for the mono 40 denier level, but is not limited thereto.

At the time of speakers, the screening was made to be drawn at a fixed rate. At this time, the preferred range of the number of twists applied to the effect yarn portion is 400 to 1500 TPM, and more preferably 500 to 800 TPM. If the number of twists is less than 400 TPM, the polyurethane-based elastic yarn is not completely wrapped and the fiber is easily damaged due to damage to the polyurethane fiber in the processing process.If the number of twists is more than 1500 TPM, the elastic yarn included inside Twisting occurs in the polyurethane elastic yarn trimming in the preparation process.

When winding for the next setting process of the twisted yarn, use a heat-resistant thermoplastic cylinder, and set after primary heat setting for 30 minutes in a range of 75 to 95 ° C. under a vacuum of 30 to 50 mmHg for setting the twist. The secondary vacuum is performed once more in the same manner as the primary vacuum for uniformity of the.

The prepared yarns are used as light and weft yarns. In the case of stretch fabrics, the fabric design to determine the density of the light weft yarns is important.

In the present invention, the weft weft density was determined by the following equation and weaved with a repia loom.

next

Slope between Y = 1 cm Z = Weft between 1 cm

Weft diameter between A = 1 cm B = Weft diameter between 1 cm

C = perfect tissue warp diameter (cm) D = perfect tissue cross score

F = number of warp yarns of perfect tissue E = number of warp yarns of perfect tissue

The inclined weft density determined by the above formula is preferably in a ratio of 1.0 to 1.80, most preferably 1.45 to 1.2.

If the ratio of the inclination exceeds 1.8, the stretch ratio of the fabric after processing is significantly lowered, and irregularities are formed on the surface of the fabric, thereby losing its value as a product. If less than 1.0, the fabric itself is slipped and elasticity of the weft part is given, but when the garment is made, the fabric breaks and slips.

The woven fabric was rinsed down to 90 ° C. by adding caustic soda and a conventional refining agent in a relaxer, and was heat-set by presetting at 185 ° C. for 1 minute. In addition, for 10 minutes in 100 ° C and 4% NaOH solution for good tactile expression, dyeing was performed at 130 ° C for 30 minutes, and finally heat-set at 175 ° C for 1 minute to obtain a bidirectional stretch fabric having excellent elasticity and good elastic recovery rate. Prepared.

In order to confirm the characteristics of the fabric thus prepared, the stretch ratio was measured by the method of KSK 0508 5-7, the stretch recovery rate was measured by the method of KSK 0508 5-8, and the slip property and the surface effect of the fabric were evaluated by appearance.

EXAMPLE

Polyester 100 denier 250 filament yarn was used as the effect yarn, and polyurethane denier yarn 40 denier was used as the screening. The yarn prepared in this way was twisted at 600 TPM while drawing at a draw ratio of 3.0 without twisting the screen using a general twisting machine. For twist fixation of the twisted yarns, a first setting was performed at 90 ° C. for 30 minutes in a conventional setting machine under a vacuum of 40 mmHg, and a second setting was performed under the same conditions. This yarn was used for both light and weft yarns, and weaved it with a satin tissue to 100 slits / inch and 65 wefts / inch in a repia loom, and refined and reduced for 10 minutes at 85 ° C through a relaxer. After heat setting at 180 ° C. for 30 seconds, the solution was reduced in 4% NaOH solution for 10 minutes. The dyeing process was processed for 30 minutes at 130 ℃ and finally heat-set at 170 ℃ 1 minutes to prepare a fabric.

Comparative Example 1

Using the same yarn as in Example was twisted at 300TPM during weaving and other weaving and dyeing was carried out in the same manner as in Example.

Comparative Example 2

Using the same yarn as in Example was twisted at 1700TPM during the weaving and other weaving and dyeing was carried out in the same manner as in Example.

Comparative Example 3

Using the same yarn as in the example was carried out at 600 TPM during weaving, weaving the warp 88 88 / inch, weaving of the weaving 90 yarn / inch, the dyeing was carried out in the same manner as in the example.

[Comparative Example 4]

Using the same yarn as in the example was carried out at 600TPM when weaving, weaving the warp yarn 100 weave / 55, weaving 55 weave / inch, the dyeing was carried out in the same manner as in the example.

[Comparative Example 5]

Using 150 twisted 48 filament twisted and stretched yarn as light and weft yarn, weaving density of 100 yarns / inch, weft yarn density of 65 yarns / inch was processed in the same processing method as in Example.

According to the present invention, it is possible to manufacture a stretch fabric having at least 30% elasticity and at least 95% elastic recovery rate in both directions without using an expensive warp machine by maintaining only the twist and density of light and weft yarns at a low cost. It is.

Claims (1)

Polyester yarn is used as effect yarn and polyurethane-based elastic yarn is used for screening. However, the yarn is twisted with 400 ~ 1500 TPM. Method for producing a bi-directional stretch fabric excellent in elasticity, characterized in that weaving so that the inclination density ratio to the weft yarn to 1.0 to 1.8.