KR0173530B1 - Method for manufacturing suede woven fabric - Google Patents

Method for manufacturing suede woven fabric Download PDF

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Publication number
KR0173530B1
KR0173530B1 KR1019960028312A KR19960028312A KR0173530B1 KR 0173530 B1 KR0173530 B1 KR 0173530B1 KR 1019960028312 A KR1019960028312 A KR 1019960028312A KR 19960028312 A KR19960028312 A KR 19960028312A KR 0173530 B1 KR0173530 B1 KR 0173530B1
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South Korea
Prior art keywords
yarn
fabric
natural
elasticity
polyurethane resin
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KR1019960028312A
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Korean (ko)
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KR980009573A (en
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김병식
안경열
심창섭
이종훈
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김상응
주식회사삼양사
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Priority to KR1019960028312A priority Critical patent/KR0173530B1/en
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/56Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads elastic
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06CFINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C11/00Teasing, napping or otherwise roughening or raising pile of textile fabrics
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06CFINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C3/00Stretching, tentering or spreading textile fabrics; Producing elasticity in textile fabrics
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06CFINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C7/00Heating or cooling textile fabrics
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06LDRY-CLEANING, WASHING OR BLEACHING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR MADE-UP FIBROUS GOODS; BLEACHING LEATHER OR FURS
    • D06L1/00Dry-cleaning or washing fibres, filaments, threads, yarns, fabrics, feathers or made-up fibrous goods
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M15/00Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M15/19Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with synthetic macromolecular compounds
    • D06M15/37Macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D06M15/564Polyureas, polyurethanes or other polymers having ureide or urethane links; Precondensation products forming them
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00Physical properties
    • D10B2401/06Load-responsive characteristics
    • D10B2401/061Load-responsive characteristics elastic

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
  • Treatments For Attaching Organic Compounds To Fibrous Goods (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)

Abstract

본 발명은 탄력성이 우수하면서 천연질감을 나타내는 스웨드 조직물의 제조방법임.The present invention is a method of producing a suede tissue of excellent texture and showing a natural texture.

본 발명은 스판데스사와 같은 고탄성사의 표면을 천연섬유방적사로 피복시킨 피복사를 위사로 사용하여 제직한 후 치수안정화처리를 하고 기모한 후, 폴리우레탄수지에 함침시키고 텐터링하여 제조하는 방법임.The present invention is a method of manufacturing by weaving the surface of high-elastic yarn, such as spandex yarn with a natural fiber spun yarn as a weft yarn, then dimensional stabilization treatment and raising, impregnated in a polyurethane resin and tentered.

본 발명으로 제조된 스웨드조직물은 고탄성사에 의하여 탄력성이 우수하면서 형성된 천연섬유의 기모부분에 의하여 천연질감을 발현시키다.The suede tissue produced by the present invention expresses the natural texture by the raised part of the natural fiber formed while having excellent elasticity by high elastic yarn.

Description

탄력성이 우수한 천연 질감의 스웨드조 직물의 제조방법Manufacturing method of suede-like fabric of natural texture superior in elasticity

본 발명은 신축성이 우수한 직물의 표면을 입모시킨 후 수계형 폴리우레탄수지를 연속식으로 처리하여 탄력성이 우수하고 천연 질감의 스웨드조 기모 직물을 제조하는 방법에 관한 것이다.The present invention relates to a method for producing a suede-like brushed fabric having excellent elasticity and natural texture by applying a surface of a stretchable fabric and then continuously treating the water-based polyurethane resin.

지금까지의 스웨드조 직물은 한국 특허 공고 제 94-3135 호에 기재된바와 같이 0.3데니어 수준의 극세사를 사용하여 제직한 후 입모 시키고 폴리우레탄에 함침 버핑하는대신에 부직포를 니들 펀칭한 후 DMF에 폴리우레탄에 함침, 응고, 수세후 입모시켜 제조하였다. 이와 같은 종래의 방법은 탄력성 및 회복력의 불량으로 부분적인 신축성만이 존재하는 결점이 있었을 뿐만 아니라 천연질감을 발현시키지 못한 결점이 있었다.Until now, suede-like fabrics are woven using a microfiber of 0.3 denier level, as described in Korean Patent Publication No. 94-3135, and then made into a needle and punched a nonwoven fabric instead of impregnating and impregnating polyurethane. It was prepared by impregnation, coagulation, and washing after washing with water. Such a conventional method not only has a flaw in which there is only partial elasticity due to a lack of elasticity and resilience, but also a flaw in which natural texture is not expressed.

본 발명은 이와같은 문제점을 해결한 것으로서 본 발명의 특징은 탄력성이 우수한 고탄력성사의 표면을 천연섬유 혹은 합성섬유극세사로 피복시킨다음에 상기 피복사로 직물을 제직한 후 기모하고 폴리우레탄수지를 함침 시킴으로서 고탄력성과 함께 천연섬유의 질감이 발현되도록 한점에 있는바, 이하 상세히 설명하면 다음과 같다.The present invention has solved such a problem as a feature of the present invention is to coat the surface of high elastic yarn with excellent elasticity with natural fiber or synthetic fiber microfiber, then weaving the fabric with the coated yarn and then brushed and impregnated with polyurethane resin One point to express the texture of natural fibers with high elasticity, described in detail below.

본 발명은 경사에 일반 폴리에스테르사를 사용하거나 또는 상기 폴리에스테르사와 고수축 폴리에스테르사를 혼섬한 이수축혼섬사를 사용한다.The present invention uses a general polyester yarn for warp, or a biaxially blended yarn in which the polyester yarn and the high shrink polyester yarn are mixed.

특히 본 발명에는 위사로 고탄력상사(스판데스사등)의 표면을 천연 섬유사 또는 합성섬유극세사로 피복시킨 고탄력성 피복사를 사용한다.In particular, the present invention uses a highly elastic coated yarn in which the surface of a high elastic yarn (Spandes, etc.) is coated with a natural fiber yarn or a synthetic fiber microfiber yarn as a weft yarn.

상기 경사와 위사를 사용하여 직물을 제직하되 이후의 기모공정에서 기모를 하기가 용이하도록 주자조직, 특히 좋기로는 5매 주자직으로 제직한다.Weaving the fabric using the warp and weft, but weaving in a runner tissue, particularly preferably five runners so that it is easy to brush in the subsequent raising process.

상기 직물을 60℃~100℃의 정련조 내에서 100~300초 동안 0.5~5%농도의 가성소다로 탈호 및 정련을 한다.The fabric is dewarped and refined with caustic soda at a concentration of 0.5-5% for 100-300 seconds in a 60 ° C-100 ° C refining bath.

정련조 내의 온도가 60℃ 미만시는 작업성이 떨어지고 제조비용도 많이 들며 100℃를 초과하면 탄력성이 저하되어 신축성이 떨어지고 축율이 심하게 발생되어 과축으로 인한 포의 주름이 발생한다. 또한 상기 직물을 0.5% 농도 미만에서 100초 미만의 시간으로 처리하면 완전한 정련이 않되며 5% 농도 초과하면서 300초를 초과하여 실시하면 탄성사의 탄성율이 현저하게 저하되는 현상이 발생한다.When the temperature in the refining tank is less than 60 ℃, workability is low, manufacturing costs are also high, and if the temperature exceeds 100 ℃, elasticity is lowered, elasticity is reduced and the axial rate is severely generated, causing wrinkles of fabric due to over-axis. In addition, when the fabric is treated in less than 0.5% concentration of less than 100 seconds, complete refining is not performed. If the fabric is carried out in excess of 5% concentration for more than 300 seconds, the elastic modulus of the elastic yarn is remarkably lowered.

이어서 상기 직물을 140℃~200℃의 온도에서 30~150 초간 열처리 하여서 직물의 형태를 안정화 시킨다.Subsequently, the fabric is heat treated at a temperature of 140 ° C. to 200 ° C. for 30 to 150 seconds to stabilize the shape of the fabric.

만약 140℃ 미만이고 30초 미만시에는 형태안정화가 어렵고 200℃ 초과시에는 경화되어 탄력성이 떨어지고 시간이 150초를 초과 할때는 신축성에 문제가 발생한다.If it is less than 140 ℃ and less than 30 seconds, it is difficult to stabilize the form, and if it is over 200 ℃, it hardens and the elasticity is lowered. If the time exceeds 150 seconds, the elasticity problem occurs.

다음에 상기직물을 통상의 방법으로 기모한 다음에 폴리우레탄수지로 처리하고 센딩한 후 120~140℃에서 40~120초간 텐터링(tentering)하여 본 발명을 완성한다.Next, the fabric is brushed by a conventional method, then treated with polyurethane resin and sent, then tentered at 120 to 140 ° C. for 40 to 120 seconds to complete the present invention.

만약 온도가 120℃ 미만시에는 형태안정화가 어렵고 140℃ 초과시는 표면의 wet감이 떨어지며, 시간이 40초 미만시에는 형태안정화가 어렵고 120초를 초과하면 신축회복력이 떨어진다.If temperature is less than 120 ℃, shape stabilization is difficult. If it is over 140 ℃, wetness of surface is decreased. If time is less than 40 seconds, shape stability is difficult. If it exceeds 120 seconds, elastic recovery capacity is lowered.

본 발명에 사용하는 폴리우레탄수지는 블록화제가 포함되어 있는 이소시아네이트로서 열반응형수용성 우레탄수지인바, 상기 블록 이소시아네이트는 활성 이소시아네이트를 블록제로 보호한 것으로 보통상태에서는 형태가 안정화 되어서 보호되다가 열처리시에는 블록화제가 제거되어서 활성 이소시아네이트기가 경화, 가교반응을 일으키고, 그 결과 내수, 내용제성이며 3차원 망상조의 우레탄 피막을 형성시키는 것이다.Polyurethane resin used in the present invention is a thermally reactive water-soluble urethane resin as an isocyanate containing a blocking agent, the block isocyanate is protected by the active agent isocyanate with a blocking agent, the form is stabilized and protected in the normal state, but blocks during heat treatment The agent is removed to cause the active isocyanate group to harden and crosslink, thereby forming a water-resistant, solvent-resistant, three-dimensional network of urethane.

본 발명에 사용하는 고탄력성사는 폴리우레탄계, 폴리에스테르계 탄성사인 스판덱스사, 폴리에테르-에스테르계 고탄성사, 폴리부틸테레프탈레이트섬유, 신축성복합섬유, 신축가공사 또는 탄성사 이며 신축율이 200%~500% 인 것이다.The high elastic yarn used in the present invention is polyurethane-based, spandex yarn of polyester elastic yarn, polyether ester high elastic yarn, polybutyl terephthalate fiber, stretch composite fiber, stretch processing or elastic yarn, and the stretch ratio is 200% to 500%. It is

만약 200% 미만시에에는 가공후의 신축율이 현저히 저하되어 직물의 특성이 약화되고 500% 초과시에는 제조미용이 상승하고 제직시 문제가 발생한다.If it is less than 200%, the stretching ratio after processing is significantly lowered, and the characteristics of the fabric are weakened. If it is more than 500%, manufacturing beauty increases and problems occur during weaving.

또 발명에서 사용하는 폴리우레탄수지는 분자량이 500~10,000 의 디이소시아네이트와 저분자 가교계의 디올로 구성되어 있으며 선상으로서 디메틸포를 아미드에 용해된다. 본 발명에서 디올로는 폴리에테르 글리콜, 폴리에스테르, 글리콜, 폴리에스테르 폴리에스테르, 공중합글리콜, 폴리카보네이트 글리콜, 디이소시아네이트 등이 사용가능하나 디이소시아네이트를 사용하였고, 가교제로는 분자량 500 내지 1,000 미만의 자기 유화형 4.4-부탄디올, 에틸렌글리콜을 사용한다. 이상의 탄성체 용액을 물에 산화방지제, 증점제, 착안안료등과 같이 첨가하여 함침용액으로 한다. 함침할 때 섬유 중량에 대해 고형분 1 내지 10%로 하는 것이 바람직하다.Moreover, the polyurethane resin used by this invention consists of diisocyanate of 500-10,000 molecular weights, and diol of a low molecular weight crosslinking system, and dimethyl form is melt | dissolved in amide as a linear form. In the present invention, the diol may be polyether glycol, polyester, glycol, polyester polyester, copolymer glycol, polycarbonate glycol, diisocyanate, and the like, but diisocyanate was used, and as a crosslinking agent, a porcelain having a molecular weight of 500 to less than 1,000 was used. Emulsified 4.4-butanediol and ethylene glycol are used. The above-mentioned elastomer solution is added to water together with an antioxidant, thickener, eye pigment, etc. to obtain an impregnation solution. It is preferable to make solid content 1 to 10% with respect to the fiber weight at the time of impregnation.

만약 1% 미만이 되면 효과가 떨어져 상품가치가 반감되며 10%를 초과하면 기모된 부분의 입모상태가 불안정하고 후도감에서 상품가치가 떨어질 뿐만 아니라 제조 가격이 상승한다. 최적의 조건은 4% 내지 6%이다. 본발명으로 제조한 스웨드 조직물은 고탄력성사와 미세다공의 폴리우레탄 탄성체로 구성되어 있기때문에 탄력성과 회복력이 우수하고 유연성과 드레이프성이 뛰어나며 천연질감의 표면효과를 갖는다.If it is less than 1%, the effect is reduced, and the value of the product is halved. If it exceeds 10%, the raised state of the raised part is unstable, and the value of the product is lowered in the aftermarket. Optimum conditions are 4% to 6%. The suede tissue manufactured by the present invention is composed of a high elastic yarn and a microporous polyurethane elastomer, so it has excellent elasticity and resilience, has excellent flexibility and drape, and has a surface effect of natural texture.

[실시예 1]Example 1

경사에 일반 폴리에스테르사와 고수축사를 인터레이스한 이수축 혼섬사 140d/160fil를 사용하여 경사밀도 165 본/인치로하고 위사에는 신축율 400% 인 스판덱스 30모노에 레이온 30수를 피복한 커버링사를 사용하여 위사밀도 70본/인치로 하여 5매 주자직으로 제직한다. 정련 디싸이징 공정으로 소다회 정련제조성을 각각 0.7%의 조성으로 제조된 침지조에 침지시킨 후 85℃의 연속 정련기에서 240초가 정련하고 150℃에서 50초간 치수안정화 처리를 한 후 기모를 한다.Using a double-spun blended yarn 140d / 160fil interlaced between ordinary polyester yarn and high shrink yarn on the warp, it has a warp density of 165 bones / inch and a weaving yarn with a 30% spandex 30 monolithic covering covering 30 rayon. Weaving is done by 5 runners with 70 weft density per inch. After refining, the soda ash refining process was immersed in an immersion tank manufactured with a composition of 0.7%, and then 240 seconds were refined in a continuous refiner at 85 ° C. and subjected to dimensional stabilization treatment at 150 ° C. for 50 seconds before raising.

상기 기모직물을 포리우레탄수지 함침 용액에 함침하여 논 터치 드라이어(Non-Touch-Dryer)를 이용하여 수분율 50%이하가 되게 무장력 건조기로 건조시킨 후 다시 입모형태를 고르게 한다. 고형분 부착율은 5중량% 기모길이 0.05mm 정도가 되게 하였다. 또한 마무리 폭축기엣 130℃에서 40초간 텐터링처리를 실시하여 직물을 제조하였으며, 그 결과는 표1 과 같았다.The brushed fabric was impregnated with a polyurethane resin impregnation solution, and then dried using a non-touch dryer to have a moisture content of 50% or less using a non-touch-dryer, and then evenly reshaped the hair. Solid content adhesion rate was set to about 0.05 mm of 5 weight% brushing length. In addition, a fabric was prepared by performing a tenter treatment for 40 seconds at 130 ° C. at the finishing width of the plane, and the results are shown in Table 1.

[실시예 2~5 및 비료예 1~6][Examples 2-5 and Fertilizer Examples 1-6]

실시에1 에 있어서, 고탄력성사의 신축율, 정련조건, 형태안정화조건, 텐터링조건, 고형분부착율을 변경한것 이외에는 동일하게 실시하여 그 결과를 표1에 나타내었다.In Example 1, the same results were obtained except that the elastic modulus, the refining conditions, the shape stabilization conditions, the tenting conditions, and the solid content adhesion ratio of the high elastic yarn were changed.

Claims (5)

경사는 일반폴리에스테르사를 사용하고, 위사는 고탄력성사의 표면을 천연섬유 방적사로 피복시킨 것을 사용하여 제직한 다음 정련처리하고 형태안정화처리를 한후 기모하고 폴리우레탄수지액에 함침시키고 텐터링 처리하여 제조함을 특징으로 하는 탄력성이 우수한 천연질감의 스웨드조 직물의 제조방법The warp yarn is made of general polyester yarn, and the weft yarn is made by using the surface of high elastic yarn coated with natural fiber spun yarn, followed by refining treatment, shape stabilization treatment, brushed, impregnated in polyurethane resin solution, and tentering treatment. Manufacturing method of suede-like fabric of natural texture with excellent elasticity 제1항에 있어서, 고탄력성사의 신축율은 200~500% 임을 특징으로 하는 탄력성이 우수한 천연질감의 스웨드조 직물의 제조방법.The method of manufacturing a suede-like fabric of excellent natural elasticity according to claim 1, wherein the elasticity of the high elastic yarn is 200 to 500%. 제1항에 있어서, 형태안정화 처리는 140~200℃의 온도에서 30~150초간 실시함을 특징으로 하는 탄력성이 우수한 천연질감의 스웨드조 직물의 제조방버.The method according to claim 1, wherein the shape stabilization treatment is carried out for 30 to 150 seconds at a temperature of 140 ~ 200 ℃. 제1항에 있어서, 폴리우레탄 수지액 함침시 폴리우레탄 수지의 고형분이 섬유 중량에 대하여 1~10%가 되게 부착시킴을 특징으로 하는 탄력성이 우수한 천연질감의 스웨이조 직물의 제조방법.The method of producing a natural textured sway-like fabric according to claim 1, wherein the solid resin of the polyurethane resin adheres to 1 to 10% by weight of the fiber when impregnated with the polyurethane resin solution. 제1항에 있어서, 정련처리는 60~100℃의 온도에서 100~300초간 0.5~5% 농도의 가성소다를 사용함을 특징으로 하는 탄력성이 우수한 천연질감의 스웨드조 직물의 제조방법.The method of claim 1, wherein the refining process uses a caustic soda at a concentration of 0.5 to 5% for 100 to 300 seconds at a temperature of 60 to 100 ° C.
KR1019960028312A 1996-07-13 1996-07-13 Method for manufacturing suede woven fabric KR0173530B1 (en)

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KR100461864B1 (en) * 1997-05-16 2005-06-20 코오롱티티에이 주식회사 Manufacturing method of polyester microfiber fabric
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