KR102092087B1 - Composition comprising hydrocarbon oil, aromatic silicone oil, wax, and pasty fatty substance - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention includes (a) one or more hydrocarbon oils, (b) one or more aromatic silicone oils, (c) one or more waxes, and (d) one or more pasty fatty materials, wherein (d) the pasty fatty materials are It relates to a composition comprising an ester of a fatty acid and a dimer of a branched polyol or polyol, wherein only a part of the hydroxyl groups of the polyol or dimer of the polyol is esterified with a fatty acid.

Description

Composition comprising hydrocarbon oil, aromatic silicone oil, wax and pasty fatty substance {COMPOSITION COMPRISING HYDROCARBON OIL, AROMATIC SILICONE OIL, WAX, AND PASTY FATTY SUBSTANCE}

The present invention relates to a composition, and more particularly, to a cosmetic and / or care cosmetic solid composition for skin and / or lips comprising a specific amount of hydrocarbon oil, aromatic silicone oil, wax and pasty fatty substances.

The invention also relates to the use of such compositions for the makeup and / or care of the skin and / or lips.

In general, when using cosmetic articles, especially lips or articles for lips, such as lipstick or lip gloss, the article does not easily transfer after application and the deposit of the article is desired to be shiny.

So far, several prior art documents have been published regarding cosmetic solid compositions for cosmetic and / or care of skin and / or lips.

WO 2013/191300 discloses a solid cosmetic composition for the cosmetic and / or care of the skin and / or the lips comprising at least one fatty phase comprising of the following in a physiologically acceptable medium:

-From 5 to 30% by weight of (a) non-volatile hydrocarbonated apolar oil, or mixtures thereof, relative to the total weight of the composition,

-(A) non-volatile silicone oil (s) in a total content of 43 to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, wherein at least one non-volatile silicone oil (s) is a non-volatile phenylated silicone oil. Oil (s), and

3 to 30% by weight of (a) wax (s), or mixtures thereof, relative to the total weight of the composition.

WO 2012/165130 discloses a cosmetic for lips characterized by comprising: (a) 5 to 30% by mass of hydrogenated polyisobutene; (B) 30 to 70% by mass of one or more types of methylphenylsilicon separated from (a) at 25 ° C; (A) at 25 ° C .; (b) 0.5 to 15% by mass of the oil content, separated when mixed with (b); And (d) 4 to 12% by mass of wax.

JP-A-2012-82188 is a solid cosmetic for lips (a) an adhesive oil; (b) exudate having a viscosity lower than that of the adhesive oil; And (c) a wax which is dispersed at 90 ° C. and solidified at 25 ° C. when mixed with at least exudate, wherein the solid cosmetic for lips is separated when (a) and (b) are mixed at 25 ° C., and (a) Disclosed is that the adhesive oil is (b) dispersed in the exudate or (b) the exudate is dispersed in the (a) adhesive oil.

However, there is still a need to obtain cosmetic articles for skin and / or lips that have good color transfer resistance and provide a deposit that effectively exhibits shine.

It is an object of the present invention to provide a composition for the makeup and / or care of skin and / or lips which produces a deposit that has good color transfer resistance and effectively exhibits shine.

Another object of the present invention is the use of such compositions for the makeup and / or care of the skin and / or lips.

The inventors have conducted diligent research and have found that the composition according to the invention can surprisingly provide a shiny deposit with good color transfer resistance.

Accordingly, the object of the present invention can be achieved by a composition comprising:

-(a) one or more hydrocarbon oils,

-(b) one or more aromatic silicone oils,

-(c) one or more waxes, and

-(d) one or more pasty fatty substances,

The (d) pasty fatty substance contains an ester of a fatty acid and a dimer of a branched polyol or polyol, and only a part of the hydroxyl groups of the diol of the polyol or polyol is esterified with a fatty acid.

Preferably, the fatty acid comprises two or more types of fatty acids.

Preferably, the fatty acids additionally include branched chain fatty acids and / or hydroxyl fatty acids.

In one embodiment, the polyol has 3 to 12 hydroxyl groups, preferably 4 to 10 hydroxyl groups, more preferably 5 to 8 hydroxyl groups.

The (a) hydrocarbon oil preferably contains a non-polar hydrocarbon oil, preferably a non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oil, more preferably hydrogenated polyisobutene.

In one preferred embodiment, the (b) aromatic silicone oil comprises a non-volatile aromatic silicone oil, preferably trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane.

The (a) hydrocarbon oil may be included in an amount of 5 to 30% by weight, preferably 5 to 25% by weight, more preferably 8 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The (b) aromatic silicone oil may be included in an amount of 43 to 90% by weight, preferably 45 to 70% by weight, more preferably 50 to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The (c) wax (es) may be included in an amount of 3 to 30% by weight, preferably 4 to 20% by weight, more preferably 5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The (d) pasty fatty substance (s) may be included in an amount of 0.5 to 20% by weight, preferably 1 to 18% by weight, more preferably 5 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention is solid.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention is a cosmetic composition for the makeup and / or care of the skin and / or lips.

The invention also relates to the use of a composition for cosmetic and / or care of the skin and / or lips, comprising applying the composition to the skin and / or lips.

The composition according to the invention comprises:

-(a) one or more hydrocarbon oils,

-(b) one or more aromatic silicone oils,

-(c) one or more waxes, and

-(d) one or more pasty fatty substances,

The (d) pasty fatty substance contains an ester of a fatty acid and a dimer of a branched polyol or polyol, and only a part of the hydroxyl groups of the diol of the polyol or polyol is esterified with a fatty acid.

The composition according to the present invention has improved color transfer resistance and can effectively produce deposits that exhibit shine.

Hereinafter, the composition according to the present invention will be described in a more detailed manner.

[Composition]

The composition according to the invention may be in the form of a solid composition. Additionally, the composition may be cosmetic for the skin and / or lips, especially for the face or body skin; This may include complexion items such as foundations, facial powders or eye shadows; Articles for lips, such as lipstick or lip care articles; Concealer articles; Blusher; Eyeliner; Lip pencil or eye pencil; It may be a body cosmetic product.

According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the composition is intended for lip makeup and more preferably a lipstick (lipstick rod).

The compositions contemplated according to the invention and used in the method according to the invention are in solid form at 20 ° C.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "solid" characterizes the state of the composition at a temperature of 20 ° C. In particular, the solid composition comprises a hardness of greater than 30Nm ^-1 at 20 ℃ temperature and atmospheric pressure (760mmHg), preferably greater than 40Nm ^-1 in accordance with the present invention.

Protocol for hardness measurement:

In particular, the hardness of the lipstick rod type composition is measured according to the following protocol.

The stick of the lipstick is stored at 20 ° C. for 24 hours before hardness measurement.

The hardness is 20 through a "cheese wire" method consisting of cutting a rod of an article, which is preferably a circular cylinder, by moving the wire with respect to the stick at a rate of 100 mm / min using a rigid tungsten wire of 250 µm in diameter. Can be measured at ℃.

The hardness of the sample of the composition of the present invention represented by Nm ^{- 1} is measured using a DFGS2 tensile tester from Indelco-Chatillon.

After repeating the measurement three times, the average is obtained. The average of the three values read using the above mentioned tensile tester, referred to as Y, is given in grams. This average is then converted to Newtons and divided by L, which represents the longest distance through which the wire passes. For cylindrical rods, L is equal to the diameter in meters.

The hardness is converted to Nm ^-1 by the following formula:

(Y × 10 ^-3 × 9.8) / L

For measurements at different temperatures, sticks are stored at this new temperature for 24 hours prior to measurement.

As previously described, according to this measurement method, the solid compositions according to the invention has a hardness of at least 20 ℃ 30Nm ^-1, preferably greater than 40Nm ^-1.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention in particular has a less than 500Nm ^-1 at 20 ℃, in particular less than ^400Nm-1, preferably 300Nm hardness of less than ^-1.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention has a hardness included between particular from 20 ℃ 40Nm ^{-1 -1} to 200Nm.

Preferably, the hardness is comprised between ^-1 45Nm ^-1 to 100Nm.

Advantageously, the composition contemplated according to the invention is a composition of the oil-in-water type. In the composition of the oil-in-water type of the present invention, (b) aromatic silicone oil (s) and (a) hydrocarbon oil (s) are not separated from each other prior to application (i.e., macroscopic phase separation of compounds (a) and (b)) There is no) stable oil-in-water. After application, (b) the aromatic silicone oil rises to the surface of the deposit, and the separated aromatic silicone oil covers the adhesive layer of the hydrocarbon oil. Thus, the resulting composition has good transition resistance (especially color transfer resistance).

In addition to good transfer resistance, the inventors of the present application surprisingly found that the composition according to the present invention can effectively provide excellent shine to deposits, thereby completing the present invention.

Preferably, the oil-in-water state of the composition is not (a) a hydrocarbon oil in the (b) aromatic silicone oil state.

Preferably, the oil-in-water state of the composition is (a) an aromatic silicone oil in a hydrocarbon oil state.

(a) hydrocarbon oil

The composition according to the invention comprises (a) at least one hydrocarbon oil. Two or more types of hydrocarbon oils may be used in combination.

More specifically, the composition according to the invention comprises from 5 to 30% by weight of hydrocarbon oil, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition comprises 5 to 25% by weight, more preferably 8 to 25% by weight of hydrocarbon oil, relative to the total weight of the composition.

As used herein, the term "oil" means a water immiscible non-aqueous compound that is liquid at room temperature (25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

As used herein, the term “hydrocarbon oil” (also referred to as “hydrocarbon-based oil” or “hydrocarbon oil”) consists essentially of, or consists of, carbon and hydrogen atoms and any oxygen and nitrogen atoms. Means oil. It can include alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups.

Preferably, the hydrocarbon oil is a non-volatile oil. The term "non-volatile oil" means an oil having a vapor pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure of 0 and less than 0.02 mmHg (2.66 Pa) and more preferably less than 10 ^-3 mmHg (0.13 Pa).

Preferably, the hydrocarbon oil is a non-polar oil. As used herein, the term "non-polar oil" means an oil having _a solubility parameter δ _a equal to 0 (J / cm 3) ^1/2 at 25 ° C. For the definition and calculation of solubility parameters in Hansen's three-dimensional solubility space, a paper by CM Hansen: "The three dimensional solubility parameters", J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967).

The (a) hydrocarbon oil may be derived from plants, minerals or synthetics. Preferably, the hydrocarbon oil (a) may be selected from straight or branched chain, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbons derived from minerals or synthetics. Preferably, (a) hydrocarbon oil contains more than 16 carbon atoms.

In particular, the (a) hydrocarbon oil may be selected from:

-Liquid paraffin or derivatives thereof,

-Squalene,

-Isoacic acid,

-Naphthalene oil,

-Polybutyl such as Indopol H-100 (molar mass or MW = 965 g / mol), Indopol H-300 (MW = 1340 g / mol) and Indopol H-1500 (MW = 2160 g / mol) sold or manufactured by Amoco. wren,

-Polyisobutene,

-Parleam ^® sold by Nippon Oil Fats, Panalane H-300 E sold or manufactured by Amoco (MW = 1340 g / mol), Viseal 20000 (MW = 6000 g / mol) sold by or manufactured by Synteal, and Witco Hydrogenated polyisobutylene, such as Rewopal PIB 1000 (MW = 1000 g / mol) sold or manufactured by, or Parleam Lite, alternatively sold by NOF Corporation,

-Decene / butene copolymers, polybutene / polyisobutene copolymers, especially Indopol L-14,

-Polydecenes and hydrogenated polydecenes such as Puresyn 10 (MW = 723 g / mol) and Puresyn 150 (MW = 9200 g / mol) sold or manufactured by Mobil Chemicals, or alternatively Puresyn 6 sold by ExxonMobil Chemical, And

-Mixtures of these.

Preferably, (a) the hydrocarbon oil is selected from polybutene, polyisobutene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, polydecene and hydrogenated polydecene, and mixtures thereof. More preferably, (a) the hydrocarbon oil is hydrogenated polyisobutene.

(b) aromatic silicone oil

The composition according to the invention comprises (b) one or more aromatic silicone oils. Two or more types of aromatic silicone oils may be used in combination.

Specifically, the composition according to the invention comprises from 43 to 90% by weight, preferably from 45 to 70% by weight, more preferably from 50 to 70% by weight of aromatic silicone oil, relative to the total weight of the composition.

As used herein, the expression "aromatic silicone oil" (also referred to as "phenyl silicone oil" or "phenylated silicone oil") means a silicone oil having one or more phenyl substituents.

Preferably, the aromatic silicone oil is a non-volatile oil.

Moreover, the aromatic silicone is preferably selected from compounds incompatible with (a).

Compatibility test

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "non-compatible oil" means that the mixing of these two oils does not lead to a uniform single phase solution. The mixing is carried out with the same weight of each oil.

More specifically, the oil is said to be "incompatible" when inducing phase separation upon mixing according to the following protocol.

For oils with a viscosity of less than 10,000 cPs (10 kPa · s) at 25 ° C., the two oils to be measured are conical plastic centrifuge tubes (Corning ^® 15 ml PET centrifuge tubes, Rack Packed with Plug) Seal Cap, Sterile (Ref. # 430055)) and place it on the Vortex Genie 2 device. Stirring is carried out at a rate of 10 for 10 seconds and the tube is manually inverted before continuing to reposition it on a Vortex instrument. This cycle is repeated three times in succession. The mixture is then left at room temperature for 48 hours.

If one or more oils have a viscosity of more than 10,000 cPs (10 kPa · s) at 25 ° C., a mixture of the two oils (5 g / 5 g) is placed in an oven at 50 ° C. for 30 minutes before performing the three stirring cycles described previously. Put it.

Then the mixture is observed.

When the mixture is separated into two phases and the separation of the two phases clearly at the interface, the phases are said to be "separated" and the oils are considered incompatible.

In the opposite case, at room temperature (about 25 ° C.), the mixture is observed using a phase contrast microscope. When continuous and dispersed phases are observed in the form of droplets, the phases are said to be "separated" and oils are considered incompatible.

If the observation of the mixture shows only a single phase, the phases are said to be "not separated" and the oils are considered compatible.

It is preferred that the composition comprises at least one (b) aromatic silicone that is incompatible with (a).

The (b) aromatic silicone oil is selected from:

a) Aromatic silicone oils corresponding to formula (I):

(I)

(I)

In the formula, R groups independently of each other represent methyl or phenyl, provided that at least one R group represents phenyl. Preferably, in the above formula, the aromatic silicone oil contains 3 or more phenyl groups, for example 4 or more, 5 or more, or 6 or more phenyl groups.

b) Aromatic silicone oils corresponding to formula (II):

(II)

(II)

In the formula, R groups independently of each other represent methyl or phenyl, provided that at least one R group represents phenyl. Preferably, in the above formula, the aromatic silicone oil includes 3 or more phenyl groups, for example, 4 or more or 5 or more phenyl groups.

c) Aromatic silicone oils corresponding to formula (III):

(III)

(III)

In the formula, Me represents methyl, y is 1 to 1000, and X represents -CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) (Ph).

d) Aromatic silicone oils corresponding to formula (IV):

(IV)

(IV)

In the formula, Me is methyl, Ph is phenyl, OR 'represents the -OSiMe ₃ group, y is 0, or is in the range of 1 to 1000, and z is in the range of 1 to 1000. In particular, y and z are numbers that make compound (IV) a non-volatile oil.

According to the first embodiment, y ranges from 1 to 1,000. For example, trimethyl siloxyphenyl dimethicone, especially sold by Wacker as reference Belsil PDM 1000, can be used.

According to the second embodiment, y is 0. For example, phenyl trimethylsiloxy trisiloxane, which is sold in particular as the reference Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid (DC556), can be used.

e) aromatic silicone oils corresponding to formula (V) below, and mixtures thereof:

(V)

(V)

Where,

-R ₁ to R ₁₀ are, independently of each other, saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₁ -C ₃₀ hydrocarbon-based radicals,

-m, n, p and q are each independently an integer from 0 to 900, provided that the sum m + n + q is other than 0.

Preferably, the sum m + n + q is 1 to 100. Preferably, the sum m + n + p + q is 1 to 900, more preferably 1 to 800. Preferably, q is 0.

Preferably, R ₁ to R ₁₀ are, independently of one another, saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched C ₁ -C ₃₀ , hydrocarbon radicals, preferably saturated, especially C ₁ -C ₁₂ hydrocarbon-based radicals, especially C ₃ -C ₁₆ , more particularly C ₄ -C ₁₀ , or monocyclic or polycyclic C ₆ -C ₁₄ , especially C ₁₀ -C ₁₃ aryl radical, or aralkyl radical. Preferably, R ₁ to R ₁₀ may each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl radical, or alternatively a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl radical. R ₁ to R ₁₀ may be particularly the same, and may also be methyl radicals.

f) Aromatic silicone oils corresponding to the following formula (VI), and mixtures thereof:

(VI)

(VI)

Where,

-R ₁ to R ₆ are, independently of each other, saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₁ -C ₃₀ hydrocarbon-based radicals, preferably R ₁ to R ₆ are C ₁ -C ₃₀ alkyl radicals, aryl Is a radical or an aralkyl radical,

-m, n and p are each independently an integer of 0 to 100, provided that the sum n + m is 1 to 100.

Preferably, R ₁ to R ₆ are independently of each other saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched C ₁ -C ₃₀ hydrocarbon radicals, preferably saturated, especially C ₁ -C ₁₂ hydrocarbon-based radicals, especially C ₃ -C ₁₆ , more particularly C ₄ -C ₁₀ , or monocyclic or polycyclic C ₆ -C ₁₄ , especially C ₁₀ -C ₁₃ aryl radical, or aralkyl radical. Preferably, R ₁ to R ₆ may each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl radical, or alternatively a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl radical.

R ₁ to R ₆ may be particularly the same, and may also be methyl radicals. Preferably, m = 1 or 2 or 3, and / or n = 0 and / or p = 0 or 1 can be applied to formula (VI).

g) Aromatic silicone oils corresponding to formula (VII) below, and mixtures thereof:

(VII)

(VII)

Where,

R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₅ and R ₆ together or individually are alkyl radicals containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms,

R ₃ and R ₄ together or individually are alkyl radicals or aryl radicals containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, provided that at least one of R ₃ and R ₄ is a phenyl radical,

X is an alkyl radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical or a vinyl radical,

n and p are integers of 1 or more selected to provide oils having a weight average molecular weight of less than 200,000 g / mol, preferably less than 150,000 g / mol, and more preferably less than 100,000 g / mol.

As preferred aromatic silicone oils, examples that may be mentioned include silicone oils as follows:

Preferably, tetramethyl tetraphenyl trisiloxane (e.g., PH-1554 HRI from Dow Corning or Dow Corning 554 Cosmetic Fluid), trimethylsiloxyphenyldimethicone (e.g. Belsil PDM 1000 from Wacker (formula above) (See (IV))), phenyl trimethicone (e.g., phenyl trimethicone sold under the trademark DC556 by Dow Corning), phenyl dimethicone, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxane, diphenyl dimethicone (e.g. , Shin Etsu KF-54 (400cSt), Shin Etsu KF54HV (5000cSt), Shin Etsu KF-50-300CS (300cSt), Shin Etsu KF-53 (175cSt), Shin Etsu KF-50-100CS ( 100cSt)), diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxane, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicate, trimethylpentaphenyl trisiloxane (for example, an article sold by Dow Corning under the name Dow Corning PH-1555 HRI Cosmetic fluid) , Diphenylsiloxy phenyltrimethicone (e.g., KF56 A from Shin Etsu) Selecting phenyl silicone oil,

And

-Mixtures of these.

The aromatic silicone is more preferably selected from:

-Phenyl trimethicone,

-Diphenylsiloxyphenyltrimethicone,

-Diphenylsiloxyphenyldimethicone,

-Trimethylpentaphenyl trisiloxane,

-Phenyl dimethicone,

-Phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxane,

-Diphenyl dimethicone,

-Diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxane and

-2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicate, and

-Mixtures of these.

Preferably, the weight average molecular weight of the aromatic silicone oil according to the invention is in the range of 500 to 10,000 g / mol.

In one embodiment, (b) the aromatic silicone oil (s) is one or more aromatic silicone oil (s) without a dimethicone moiety, or a mixture of one or more aromatic silicone oils without a dimethicone moiety and one or more dimethicone moieties It is selected from one or more aromatic silicone oil.

If the composition comprises a mixture of aromatic silicone oil (s) without dimethicone moieties and aromatic silicone oil (s) with dimethicone moieties, aromatic silicone oils without dimethicone moieties versus aromatics with one or more dimethicone moieties The weight ratio of silicone oil may be 1: 1 to 10: 1, preferably 2: 1 to 7: 1, more preferably 3: 1 to 5: 1.

Most preferably, (b) the aromatic silicone oil is a trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane represented by the following formula (VIII):

(VIII)

(VIII)

In the formula, Me represents methyl and Ph represents phenyl.

Trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane is, for example, a reference PH-1555 HRI or Dow Corning 555 Cosmetic Fluid (chemical name: 1,3,5-trimethyl-1,1,3,5,5-pentaphenyl tri from Dow Corning) Siloxane; INCI name: trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane), or sold by Dow Corning as a reference Dow Corning 554 Cosmetic Fluid.

Examples of aromatic silicone oils having one or more dimethicone moieties are, as mentioned above, for example formula (IV) where y is non-zero, formula (V) where p is non-zero and R ₃ and R ₄ are CH ₃ , And p is not 0 and R ₃ and R ₄ are CH ₃ , for example, a compound represented by formula (VI), such as trimethylsiloxyphenyldimethicone (see, for example, Wacker's Belsil PDM 1000 (formula (IV) above) ), Phenyl dimethicone, diphenyl dimethicone (KF-54 (400cSt) from Shin Etsu, KF54HV (5000cSt) from Shin Etsu, KF-50-300CS (300cSt) from Shin Etsu, KF-53 (175cSt) from Shin Etsu) And Shin Etsu's KF-50-100CS (100cSt).

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the aromatic silicone oil (b) is selected from aromatic silicone oils without dimethicone moieties and mixtures thereof.

In particular, preferably, (b) the aromatic silicone oil is a mixture of trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane and diphenylsiloxy phenyltrimethicone.

(c) wax

The composition according to the invention comprises (c) one or more waxes. Two or more waxes can be used in combination.

The composition according to the invention comprises 3 to 30% by weight of wax, preferably 4 to 20% by weight, more preferably 5 to 10% by weight of wax, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The term "wax" as used herein refers to a lipophilic compound that is solid at room temperature, has a reversible change in solid / liquid phase, and may have a melting point of 30 ° C or higher and 200 ° C or lower, particularly 120 ° C or lower.

In particular, the wax (c) suitable for the present invention may have a melting point of 45 ° C or higher, particularly 55 ° C or higher.

By making the wax liquid (melting), it becomes miscible with the oils that may be present and forms a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but if the temperature of the mixture is returned to room temperature, recrystallization of the wax in the oil of the mixture Painter is observed.

For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point is standard ISO 11357-3; Corresponds to the temperature of the maximum endothermic peak observed by thermal analysis (DSC) described in 1999. According to ordinary technical knowledge in the art, the melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example, a calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by TA Instruments.

The wax may have a hardness in the range of 0.05 MPa to 15 MPa, preferably 6 MPa to 15 MPa. The hardness is measured at a compressive force measured at 20 ° C using a texturometer sold by Rheo under the name TA-TX2i equipped with a stainless steel cylinder of 2 mm in diameter, and moved at a measurement speed of 0.1 mm / s. It is determined by penetrating the wax to a penetration depth of 0.3 mm.

According to a preferred embodiment, the wax is a non-polar wax. As used herein, the term "non-polar wax" means a wax having _a solubility parameter δ _a of 0 (J / cm 3) ^1/2 at 25 ° C. as defined above. For the definition and calculation of the solubility parameters in the Hansen three-dimensional solubility space, see CM Hansen's paper: "The three dimensional solubility parameters" J.Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967).

In particular, the term "non-polar wax" means a wax formed only of a non-polar wax and not formed from a mixture comprising other types of wax other than the non-polar wax.

As examples of non-polar waxes suitable for use in the present invention, mention may be made in particular of hydrocarbon-based waxes such as microcrystalline wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite and polyethylene wax.

As used herein, "hydrocarbon wax" refers to waxes formed exclusively from carbon and hydrogen atoms and does not include heteroatoms such as N, O and P.

Polyethylene waxes that may be mentioned include Performalene 500-L polyethylene and Performalene 400 polyethylene sold by New Phase Technologies. Ozokerite that may be mentioned is Ozokerite Wax SP 1020 P. As microcrystalline waxes that can be used, mention may be made of Multiwax W 445 ^® sold by Sonneborn and Microwax HW ^® sold by Paramelt and Base Wax 30540 ^® .

(d) Paste  Fatty substances

The composition according to the invention comprises (d) at least one pasty fatty substance. Two or more pasty fatty substances may be used in combination.

The composition according to the invention comprises 0.5 to 20% by weight of a pasty fatty substance, preferably 1 to 18% by weight, more preferably 5 to 15% by weight of a pasty fatty substance, relative to the total weight of the composition. .

Within the meaning of the present invention, the term “pasty fatty substance” refers to an anisotropic crystalline arrangement in the solid state and a lipophilic fat having a reversible solid / liquid change of state, including a liquid fraction and a solid fraction at a temperature of 23 ° C. It is understood to mean a compound.

The term “pasteability” as used herein is understood to mean a compound having a hardness at 20 ° C. of 0.001 to 0.5 MPa, preferably 0.002 to 0.4 MPa.

(D) The pasty fatty substance of the present invention comprises a fatty acid and an ester of a branched polyol or a dimer of a polyol. Additionally, in the ester, only a part of the hydroxyl groups of the branched chain polyol or dimer of the polyol is esterified with fatty acids.

The polyol in the ester includes a branched chain polyol. Two or more different polyols can be used in combination.

Branched chain polyols can be aliphatic, cyclic or aromatic. Preferably, the branched polyol is an aliphatic branched polyol.

The branched chain polyol may contain 2 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 4 to 20 carbon atoms, and more preferably 6 to 16 carbon atoms.

The branched polyol in the ester may have 3 to 12 hydroxyl groups, preferably 4 to 10 hydroxyl groups, more preferably 5 to 8 hydroxyl groups.

Preferably, the branched polyol is selected from branched sugar alcohols.

The dimer of the polyol can be a dimer of a straight chain or branched polyol. Preferably, the dimer of the polyol is a dimer of the branched chain polyol described herein.

Non-limiting examples of branched polyols or dimers in the esters include ethylene glycol, pentatriol, pentaerythritol, dipentaerythritol, neopentyl glycol and combinations thereof and preferably dipentaerythritol .

According to the present invention, (d) the pasty fatty substance comprises an ester in which only a part of a branched chain polyol or dimer thereof is esterified with a fatty acid.

An ester compound in which only a part of a branched chain polyol or a dimer thereof is esterified corresponds to an ester compound in which the hydroxyl group of the polyol or a dimer thereof is not fully esterified. That is, the ester compound comprises a dimer of branched polyols or polyol residues that have not been fully esterified. In other words, the ester comprises at least one unreacted hydroxyl group derived from a branched chain polyol / dimer thereof. Preferably, the ester comprises two unreacted hydroxyl groups derived from polyols or dimers thereof.

As used herein, the term "polyol residue" or "dimer of polyol residue" means a polyol / dimer in which a hydrogen atom has been removed from its hydroxyl group. The term "fatty acid residue" as used herein means a fatty acid in which hydroxyl groups have been removed from the carboxyl group.

The fatty acid in the ester may include two or more types of fatty acids. Preferably, the fatty acid comprises one or more branched chain fatty acids. The branched chain fatty acid can be a saturated or unsaturated branched aliphatic fatty acid. The number of carbon atoms in the branched chain fatty acid may be 4 to 30, preferably 8 to 26, and more preferably 12 to 22. Such fatty acids include, but are not limited to, isostearic acid, isoarakyd acid and octyldodecanoic acid, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the fatty acid in the ester comprises one or more hydroxyl fatty acids. Hydroxyl fatty acid means hydroxylated aliphatic fatty acid. These hydroxyl fatty acids can have 4 to 30 carbon atoms, for example 8 to 26 carbon atoms or 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and 1 to 20 hydroxyl groups, for example 1 to 10 hydroxyl groups Or it may have 1 to 6 hydroxyl groups. Two or more different hydroxyl fatty acids can be used in combination. Preferably, the hydroxyl fatty acid is a monohydroxylated fatty acid, for example 12-hydroxy stearic acid.

In another aspect of the present invention, the fatty acid in the ester may include a straight-chain aliphatic fatty acid. The straight chain fatty acid may be saturated or unsaturated, and the number of carbon atoms in the fatty acid may be 4 to 30, preferably 8 to 26, and more preferably 12 to 22.

Non-limiting examples of additional straight-chain fatty acids are hexanoic acid, heptanoic acid, octanoic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, nonanoic acid, decanoic acid, undecanoic acid, dodecanoic acid, tridecanoic acid, tetradecanoic acid, pentadecanoic acid, hexa Decanoic acid, hexyldecanoic acid, heptadecanoic acid, octadecanoic acid, nonadecanoic acid, eiconic acid, henecoic acid, docoic acid, palmitoleic acid, and mixtures thereof.

In a further preferred embodiment of the invention, the fatty acids in the ester compounds are branched chain fatty acids, for example isostearic acid, isoarakyd acid and octyldodecanoic acid and hydroxyl fatty acids, for example 12-hydroxy stearic acid. It is a mixture of. In particular, the fatty acid is a mixture of 12-hydroxy stearic acid and isostearic acid.

According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, (d) the pasty fatty substance is a tetraester of dipentaerythritol and a mixture of 12-hydroxy stearic acid and isostearic acid, for example dipentaerythritol tetrahydro It is hydroxystearate / tetraisostearate (trade name: Salacos-168EV from NISSHIN OILLIO).

(e) other ingredients

The composition according to the present invention may include other ingredients commonly used in cosmetic compositions for skin and / or lip makeup and / or care. Other components may include, but are not limited to, other physiologically acceptable media, components (a) and (b), other oils, fillers, dyes, and various additives.

Physiologically acceptable media

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "physiologically acceptable medium" means a medium suitable for application to the skin and / or lips of a cosmetic composition, for example water, water miscible solvents, or organic solvents commonly used in cosmetic compositions. It is intended to represent.

Physiologically acceptable media (acceptable resistance, toxicity and texture) are generally adapted to the nature of the support to which the composition is applied and the form in which the composition is set.

According to one preferred embodiment, particularly for compositions intended for the care and / or makeup of the lips, the composition used according to the invention is anhydrous, or less than 3% by weight of water, preferably with respect to the total weight of the composition It contains less than 1% by weight of water.

The term "anhydrous" means, in particular, that water is preferably not intentionally added to the composition, but may be present in trace amounts in the various compounds used in the composition.

Other oil (s)

(Non-aromatic silicone oil)

The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more non-aromatic silicone oils.

The expression "non-aromatic silicone oil" means silicone oil having no phenyl substituent.

Representative examples of these non-aromatic silicone oils that may be mentioned are polydimethylsiloxanes; Alkyl dimethicone; Vinyl methyl methicone; And also silicones modified with functional groups such as optionally fluorinated aliphatic groups or hydroxyl, thiol and / or amine groups. "Dimethicone" (INCI name) corresponds to polydimethylsiloxane (chemical name).

The non-aromatic silicone oil can be selected from:

-Non-volatile polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS),

PDMS comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, both protruding and / or present at the ends of the silicone chain, each containing 2 to 24 carbon atoms, such as cetyldimethicone sold by Evonik Goldschmidt as commercial reference ABIL WAX 9801,

PDMS comprising aliphatic and / or aromatic groups, or functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and / or amine groups,

-Polyalkylmethylsiloxanes such as cetyldimethicone sold by Evonik Goldschmidt under the commercial reference ABIL WAX 9801, or polyalkylmethylsiloxanes optionally substituted with fluorinated groups such as polymethyltrifluoropropyldimethylsiloxane,

-Polyalkylmethylsiloxanes substituted with functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and / or amine groups,

-Polysiloxanes modified with fatty acids, fatty alcohols or polyoxyalkylenes, and mixtures thereof.

(Fluoro oil)

The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more fluoro oils.

The term "fluoro oil" means an oil comprising one or more fluorine atoms.

Fluoro oils that can be used in the present invention can be selected from fluorosilicone oils, fluoro polyethers and fluorosilicones described in document EP-A-847 752, and perfluoro compounds.

The term "perfluoro compound" means a compound in which all hydrogen atoms have been replaced with fluorine atoms. As examples of perfluoro oils that can be used in the present invention, perfluorodecalin and perfluoroperhydrophenanthrene can be mentioned.

Filler (s)

The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more filler (s).

The term “fillers” should be understood to mean colorless or white, mineral or synthetic particles of any shape that are insoluble in the medium of the composition, regardless of the temperature at which the composition is made. These fillers serve in particular to modify the rheology or texture of the composition.

The filler may be mineral or organic, and may be of any shape, plate shape, spherical shape or oval shape, regardless of crystallographic form (eg, layered, cubic, hexagonal, tetragonal, etc.). Talc, mica, silica, kaolin, clay, titanium dioxide, tin oxide, benton, fume silica particles, polyamide (Nylon ^® ) powder (Orgasol ^® ) from Atochem, poly-β-alanine powder, optionally treated with hydrophilic or hydrophobic treatment, and Polyethylene powder, tetrafluoroethylene polymer (Teflon ^® ) powder, laurolysine, starch, boron nitride, hollow polymer microspheres, for example polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile microspheres, for example Expancel ^® ( Nobel Industrie Co.), acrylic acid copolymer microspheres (Dow Corning Corporation Polytrap ^®) and silicone resin microbeads (for example, Toshiba Corporation Tospearls ^®), borosilicate, calcium aluminum, needle type calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium hydroxide Loxiapatite, hollow silica microspheres (Silica Beads ^® from Maprecos), elastomeric polyorganosiloxane particles, glass or ceramic microcapsules, and 8 to Metal soap derived from organic carboxylic acids containing 22 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc stearate, magnesium stearate, lithium stearate, zinc laurate or magnesium myristate , And mixtures thereof.

They can also be particles comprising a copolymer comprising trimethylol hexyl lactone. In particular, it may be a copolymer of hexamethylene diisocyanate / trimethylol hexyl lactone. These trimethylol hexyl lactone cross polymer particles are commercially available under the name of, especially, for example, from Toshiki captured Plastic Powder D-400 ^® or Plastic Powder D-800 ^®.

The filler may be present in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, more preferably 1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Dye (s)

The composition according to the present invention may contain one or more dyes (also known as colorants) that can be selected from pigments, water-soluble or oil-soluble dies, nacres and bright flakes, and mixtures thereof, well known to those skilled in the art.

The term "pigment" should be understood as meaning white or colored, mineral or organic particles that are insoluble in aqueous solutions.

As the mineral pigments that can be used in the present invention, titanium oxide, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide and also zinc oxide, iron oxide or chromium oxide, ferric blue, manganese violet, ultramarine blue and chromium hydrate can be mentioned.

It may also be a pigment having a structure which may be of the type, for example, sericite / iron oxide / titanium dioxide / silica. Such pigments are sold, for example, as reference Coverleaf NS or JS by Chemicals and Catalysts and have a contrast ratio in the region of 30.

The dye may also include a pigment having a structure that may be of the type of silica microspheres containing, for example, iron oxide. An example of a pigment having this structure is an article sold by Miyoshi as a reference PC Ball PC-LL-100 P, which is composed of silica microspheres containing yellow iron oxide.

Among the organic pigments that can be used in the present invention, carbon black, pigments of type D & C, lakes based on cochinyl carmine or barium, strontium, calcium or aluminum, or alternatively EP-A-542 669, EP-A- Diketopyrrolopyrrole (DPP) described in 787 730, EP-A-787 731 and WO-A-96 / 08537 can be mentioned.

The term “pearl layer” may or may not be iridescent, and refers to colored particles of any shape, especially those produced in their shells by certain mollusks or alternatively synthesized and having a color effect through light interference. It should be understood as.

The nacres are chloroplast pigments, for example, titanium oxide mica coated with iron oxide, mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with organic die, and also nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride Can be selected from. They may also be mica particles with two or more successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic dyes superimposed on the surface.

Among the nacres available on the market, the nacres Timica, Flamenco and Duochrome (micas) sold by Engelhard, the Timiron nacres sold by Merck, Prestige mica nacres sold by Eckart, and Sunshine synthesized by Sun Chemical Mica-based nacres can be mentioned.

The term "die" should be understood as meaning a compound that is generally organic, soluble in fatty substances such as oils or in aqueous alcohol phases.

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may also include a water-soluble or fat-soluble die. Fat-soluble dies are, for example, Sudan Red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, β-Carotene, Sudan Brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5 and Quinoline Yellow. The water-soluble die is, for example, beetroot juice or methylene blue.

The composition according to the present invention may also include one or more materials having a specific optical effect as a dye.

This effect is different from the conventional simple color tone effect, i.e., a uniform and stabilized effect produced by standard dyes, for example monochromatic pigments. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "stabilized" means that there is no influence of the variability of color as a function of the viewing angle or alternatively in response to temperature changes.

For example, the material can be selected from particles with a metallic tint, goniochromatic colorants, diffractive pigments, thermochromic pigments, fluorescence brighteners and also fibers, especially interfering fibers. Of course, these various materials can be combined to provide simultaneous expression of two effects, or even novel effects according to the present invention.

The dye may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 30% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 20% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

Additive (s)

The composition according to the invention is also intended for the intended use function of the composition, for example, reducing agents, thickeners, especially hydrophobic film formers, silicone elastomers, softeners, emollients, antifoaming agents, antioxidants, wetting agents, UV blocking agents, preservatives, ceramides , Cosmetically active agents, peptizers, neutralizing agents, fragrances, proteins, vitamins, sprays, hydrophilic or lipophilic film-forming or non-film-forming polymers; It may include one or more additives commonly used in cosmetics, selected from lipophilic or hydrophilic gelling agents.

The additives are generally present in amounts of 0.01 to 10% by weight, respectively, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Manufacturing method

The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the ingredients by a mixer well known in the art. Generally, (c) the wax is mixed under heating to lower its viscosity.

(b) The aromatic silicone oil is preferably added after (a) hydrocarbon oil, (c) wax and (d) pasty fatty substance are well mixed.

[ Cosmetic  Use of solid composition]

The invention also relates to the use of the composition according to the invention for the makeup and / or care of the skin and / or lips, comprising applying to the skin and / or lips of the composition.

The invention also provides a cosmetic method for the makeup and / or care of the skin and / or lips, comprising applying one or more compositions according to the invention to the skin and / or lips.

Such use and methods according to the present invention can provide a shiny deposit with good color transfer resistance to skin and / or lips.

Example

Although the invention is described in more detail through examples, it should not be construed as limiting the scope of the invention.

Cosmetic formulation of solid lip articles (lipstick)

The compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 to 5 were prepared as solid cosmetic articles for lips. The components are shown in Table 1 below. In Table 1, all components are based on “% by weight” as the active raw material.

The following components were used as components (a) to (d) in the Examples.

(a) Hydrogenated polyisobutene (PARLEAM V)

(b) Diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone (KF-56A)

(b) Trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane (DOW CORNING PH-1555 HRI COSMETIC FLUID)

(c) Polyethylene (PERFORMALENE 500-L POLYETHYLENE)

(c) OZOKERITE WAX SP 1020 P

(d1): Dipentaerythritol tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate (Salacos-168EV from NISSIN OILLIO)

(d'1): Dipentaerythritol hexahydroxystearate (Salacos-168M from NISSIN OILLIO)

(d'2): Bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate (Plandol-G)

(d'3): Bis-diglyceryl polyacyl adipate-2 (SOFTISAN 649)

(d'4): Petrolatum (ULTIMA WHITE PET USP)

(d'5): Phytosteryl macadamate (YOFCO MAS)

Manufacturing method

The compositions of Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 to 5 were obtained according to the following protocol:

In the first step, (a) half of the hydrogenated polyisobutene, pentaerythryl tetraisostearate, filler and pigment were crushed with a 3-roll mill to obtain a pigment material.

At the same time, (a) hydrogenated polyisobutene, (c) wax and the remainder of components (d) or (d ') are introduced into a heating pan and linen ( Rayneri) blending. After confirming that all applied ingredients were well mixed, component (b) was introduced. The pigment material was incorporated into the mixture, followed by the introduction of isohexadecane, and stirring was continued until the mixture became homogeneous.

Finally, the composition was poured into a mold preheated to 45 ° C to prepare a stick having a diameter of 11.5 mm. The whole was left at room temperature for 5 minutes and then left to cool in a freezer for 15 minutes to obtain a test lipstick.

evaluation

(Color transition resistance)

After applying the composition and rubbing the lower and upper lip together for 5 seconds, the composition was applied to the lips and after 5 minutes, the lips were pressed on a white porcelain cup to evaluate color transfer resistance.

(Gloss properties)

The gloss was evaluated according to the following protocol:

The composition was applied on a Bio Skin (Beaulax) with a fixed number of strokes, and the gloss was measured with a gloss meter (GM-268, MINOLTA) under conditions of an illumination angle of 60 ° and an acceptance angle of 60 °.

The amount of deposit was measured by weight loss after application to Bio Skin.

(Sensory performance)

The lipstick obtained according to Example 1 was evaluated according to the consumer sensory test of the following organoleptic properties by 10 panels:

-Slippery,

-Texture on the lips, and

-Adhesive immediately after application.

After the test, a fair judge expert asked them.

result

(Color transfer resistance and gloss properties)

The results of color transfer resistance and gloss properties are shown in Table 2 below.

As shown in Table 2, Example 1 has good color transfer resistance and good gloss properties, so it can provide a shiny deposit on the lips. In particular, the amount of deposits of Example 1 is relatively small compared to that of the Comparative Example, but shows good shine. Therefore, it can be concluded that the composition according to Example 1 can effectively provide shine on the lips.

In contrast, Comparative Examples 1 to 1 using a compound of any of (d'1) to (d'5) as a pasty fatty material that does not contain a branched polyol moiety in which only a part of the hydroxyl groups are esterified. 5 did not effectively produce the desired color transfer resistance and / or shine on the lips.

(Sensory performance)

The lipstick obtained according to Example 1 was highly evaluated according to the consumer sensory test because it produced the following performance:

-Smooth slip,

-Soft texture on the lips, and

-The absence of a viscous sensation immediately after application.

Additionally, the panel evaluated the lipstick according to Example 1 as follows:

-Even if no additional coating was applied, the color appeared sufficiently.

-Immediately after application, shine was provided to make lips look moist.

-The color lasted a long time.

-Did not make my lips feel dry all day.

Claims (13)

-(a) one or more hydrocarbon oils,
-(b) one or more aromatic silicone oils,
-(c) one or more waxes, and
-(d) at least one pasty fatty substance in an amount of 0.5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,
The (d) pasty fatty substance includes an ester of a fatty acid and a dimer of a branched polyol or polyol, and only a part of the hydroxyl groups of the diol of the polyol or polyol is esterified with a fatty acid, and the fatty acid is 2 A cosmetic composition comprising a fatty acid of the above type, and a hydroxyl fatty acid having 4 to 30 carbon atoms. delete According to claim 1,
The fatty acid is a cosmetic composition comprising a branched chain fatty acid. According to claim 1,
The polyol is a cosmetic composition having 3 to 12 hydroxyl groups. According to claim 1,
The (a) hydrocarbon oil is a cosmetic composition comprising a non-polar hydrocarbon oil. According to claim 1,
The (b) aromatic silicone oil is a cosmetic composition comprising a non-volatile aromatic silicone oil. According to claim 1,
The (a) a cosmetic composition containing hydrocarbon oil in an amount of 5 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. According to claim 1,
The (b) cosmetic composition containing aromatic silicone oil in an amount of 43 to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. According to claim 1,
The cosmetic composition (c) wherein the wax (es) is contained in an amount of 3 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. delete According to claim 1,
Solid cosmetic composition. According to claim 1,
A cosmetic composition that is a cosmetic composition for the makeup and / or care of skin and / or lips. A cosmetic method for the cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1, 3 to 9, 11 and 12, comprising applying the cosmetic solid composition to the skin and / or lips, comprising: Cosmetic method of cosmetic composition for lip makeup and / or care.