JP6723684B2 - Compositions containing hydrocarbon oils, aromatic silicone oils, waxes and pasty fatty substances - Google Patents

Description

The present invention comprises a hydrocarbon oil, an aromatic silicone oil, a wax, and a paste-like fatty substance in a specific content, a composition for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips, More particularly it relates to solid cosmetic compositions.

The invention also relates to the use of such compositions for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips.

In general, when using makeup products, especially lip products such as lipsticks or lip glosses, women desire that the product not be transferable after application and that the deposits of the product are shiny.

To date, several prior art documents have been published relating to solid cosmetic compositions for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or lips.

WO2013/191300 describes that in a physiologically acceptable medium,
-5-30% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of (a) a non-volatile hydrocarbonated non-polar oil or mixture thereof.
A total content of (a) non-volatile silicone oil of 43 to 90% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, wherein at least one of said non-volatile silicone oils is non-volatile phenylated silicone oil
-For making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips, comprising at least one fatty phase comprising (a) wax, or 3 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of a mixture thereof. A solid cosmetic composition is disclosed.

WO2012/165130 describes (a) 5-30% by weight of hydrogenated polyisobutene and (b) 30-70% by weight of one or more methylphenyl silicones which separate when mixed with (a) at 25°C. And (c) 0.5 to 15% by mass of oil content that separates when (a) and (b) are mixed at 25° C., and (d) 4 to 12% by mass of wax. Disclosed is a characteristic lip cosmetic.

JP 2012-82188 discloses that (a) sticky oil, (b) exudate oil (its viscosity is lower than that of sticky oil), and (c) at 90° C. when mixed with at least exudate oil. A solid lip cosmetic comprising a wax that solidifies at 25° C., wherein the solid lip cosmetic separates when (a) and (b) are mixed at 25° C., and (a) adhesive oil Disclosed is a solid cosmetic for lips, which is characterized in that (b) is dispersed in exudate or (b) exudate is dispersed in (a) adhesive oil.

However, there is still a need to obtain a make-up product for the skin and/or the lips, which gives a deposit which has good color transfer resistance and which effectively exhibits a shine.

WO2013/191300 WO2012/165130 JP2012-82188 European Patent No.A-847752 European Patent No.A-542669 European Patent No.A-787730 European Patent No.A-787731 International Publication No.A-96/08537

C.M. Hansen, "The three dimensional solubility parameters", J. Paint Technol., Vol. 39, p. 105 (1967).

It is an object of the present invention to provide a composition for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips, which produces deposits which have good color transfer resistance and which effectively exhibit a shine.

Another object of the invention is the use of such compositions for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips.

The inventors have conducted diligent research and have surprisingly found that the composition according to the invention is capable of imparting bright deposits with good color transfer resistance.

Therefore, the above object of the present invention is to
(a) at least one hydrocarbon oil,
(b) at least one aromatic silicone oil,
(c) at least one wax,
(d) comprising at least one pasty fatty substance,
(d) The pasty fatty substance comprises an ester of a fatty acid and a branched polyol or a dimer of the polyol, wherein only a part of the hydroxyl groups of the polyol or the dimer of the polyol is esterified with the fatty acid. Can be done.

Preferably the fatty acid comprises more than one type of fatty acid.

Preferably, the fatty acids further include branched fatty acids and/or hydroxyl fatty acids.

In one embodiment, the polyol has 3-12 hydroxyl groups, preferably 4-10 hydroxyl groups, more preferably 5-8 hydroxyl groups.

It is preferred that the (a) hydrocarbon oil comprises a non-polar hydrocarbon oil, preferably a non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oil, more preferably hydrogenated polyisobutene.

In a preferred embodiment, the (b) aromatic silicone oil comprises a non-volatile aromatic silicone oil, preferably trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane.

The (a) hydrocarbon oil may be contained in an amount of 5 to 30% by mass, preferably 5 to 25% by mass, more preferably 8 to 25% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

The (b) aromatic silicone oil may be contained in an amount of 43 to 90% by mass, preferably 45 to 70% by mass, more preferably 50 to 70% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

The wax (c) may be contained in an amount of 3 to 30% by mass, preferably 4 to 20% by mass, more preferably 5 to 10% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

The (d) pasty fatty substance may be contained in an amount of 0.5 to 20% by mass, preferably 1 to 18% by mass, more preferably 5 to 15% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention is solid.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention is a cosmetic composition for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips.

The invention also relates to the use of the composition for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips, comprising the step of applying the composition to the skin and/or the lips.

The composition according to the invention comprises
(a) at least one hydrocarbon oil,
(b) at least one aromatic silicone oil,
(c) at least one wax,
(d) comprising at least one pasty fatty substance,
(d) The pasty fatty substance contains an ester of a fatty acid and a branched polyol or a dimer of the polyol, and only part of the hydroxyl groups of the polyol or the dimer of the polyol is esterified with the fatty acid.

The composition according to the invention is capable of imparting a deposit which has improved color transfer resistance and which effectively exhibits shine.

The composition according to the invention will be described in more detail hereinafter.

[Composition]
The composition according to the invention may be in the form of a solid composition. Furthermore, the composition may be for making up the skin and/or the lips, in particular for the facial or body skin, which is for the use of facial colours, such as foundations, face powders, eye shadows and the like. Products; lip products such as lipsticks, lip care products; concealer products; blushers; eyeliners; lip pencils or eye pencils; body make-up products.

According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the composition is intended to make up the lips, more particularly a lipstick (stick of sticks).

The composition under consideration according to the invention and used in the method according to the invention is in solid form at 20°C.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "solid" characterizes the state of the composition at a temperature of 20°C. In particular, the solid compositions according to the invention, at a temperature 20 ° C. and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), ^-1 greater hardness 30 Nm, preferably 40 Nm ^-1 greater.

Protocol for Measuring Hardness The hardness of the composition, especially the type of stick lipstick, is determined according to the following protocol.

Lipstick sticks are stored at 20° C. 24 hours before hardness measurement.

The hardness can be measured at 20° C. via the “cheese wire” method, which is a hard tungsten wire with a diameter of 250 μm, preferably a cylinder, by moving the wire with respect to the stick at a speed of 100 mm/min. Consisting of laterally cutting the rod.

The hardness, expressed in Nm ^-1 , of a sample of the composition of the invention is measured using a DFGHS2 tensile tester manufactured by Indelco-Chatillon.

The measurement is repeated 3 times and then averaged. The average of the three values read using the tensile tester described above is noted as Y and is shown as grams. This average value is converted to Newtons and then divided by L, which represents the longest distance the wire has traveled. In the case of a cylindrical bar, L equals the diameter (in meters).

Convert hardness to Nm ^-1 by the following formula:
(Y x 10 ^-3 x 9.8)/L

To measure at different temperatures, the sticks are stored at this new temperature for 24 hours before measuring.

As previously described, according to this measurement method, the solid compositions according to the present invention, the hardness at 20 ° C. is, 30 Nm ^-1 or more, preferably 40 Nm ^-1 greater.

Preferably, the composition according to the present invention, in particular, less than hardness 500 Nm ^-1 at 20 ° C., in particular 400Nm less than ^-1, preferably less than 300 Nm ^-1.

Preferably, the composition according to the present invention, specifically, the hardness at 20 ° C. is between 40 Nm ^-1 of 200 Nm ^-1.

Preferably, the hardness is between 45 Nm ^-1 of 100 Nm ^-1.

Advantageously, the composition under consideration according to the invention is an oil-in-oil type composition. In the oil-in-oil type composition of the present invention, the (b) aromatic silicone oil and (a) hydrocarbon oil are in a stable oil-in-oil state prior to application and do not separate from each other [ie (a) compound And (b) there is no macroscopic phase separation with the compound]. After application, (b) the aromatic silicone oil rises to the surface of the deposit and this separated aromatic silicone oil covers the adhesive layer of the hydrocarbonated oil. Therefore, the resulting composition has good transfer resistance (especially color transfer resistance).

In addition to good transfer resistance, the inventors of the present application have surprisingly found that the composition according to the invention can effectively impart an outstanding shine to the deposits and complete the invention. ..

Preferably, the oil-in-oil state of the composition is not (b) aromatic silicone oil (a) hydrocarbon oil state.

Preferably, the oil-in-oil state of the composition is (a) in a hydrocarbon oil (b) in an aromatic silicone oil state.

(a) Hydrocarbon oil The composition according to the invention comprises (a) at least one hydrocarbon oil. Two or more types of hydrocarbon oils can be used in combination.

More particularly, the composition according to the invention comprises a total of 5% to 30% by weight of hydrocarbon oil, based on the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition comprises 5% to 25% by weight, more preferably 8% to 25% by weight of hydrocarbon oil, based on the total weight of the composition.

The term “oil” as used herein means a non-aqueous compound that is immiscible with water and is a liquid at room temperature (25° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

The term "hydrocarbon oil" (also referred to as "hydrocarbon-based oil" or "hydrocarbonated oil"), as used herein, consists essentially of carbon and hydrogen atoms, optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms. Means an oil that is formed or even constituted. It can have alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.

Preferably the hydrocarbon oil is a non-volatile oil. The term "non-volatile oil" refers to an oil whose non-zero vapor pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure is less than 0.02 mmHg (2.66 Pa), and better less than 10 ^-3 mmHg (0.13 Pa). means.

Preferably the hydrocarbon oil is a non-polar oil. The term “non-polar oil” as used herein means an oil having a solubility parameter at 25° C., δ _a , equal to 0 (J/cm ³ ) ^1/2 . The definition and calculation of the solubility parameters in the Hansen three-dimensional solubility space are described in the article "The three dimensional solubility parameters" by CM Hansen, J. Paint Technol., Vol. 39, page 105 (1967).

(a) Hydrocarbon oils can be of vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin. Preferably, the (a) hydrocarbon oil may be selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin. Preferably, the (a) hydrocarbon oil has more than 16 carbon atoms.

Specifically, the (a) hydrocarbon oil is selected from the following:
-Liquid paraffin or its derivatives,
-Squalane,
-Isoeicosan,
-Naphthalene oil,
-Polybutylene, for example Indopol H-100 (molar mass or MW=965 g/mol), Indopol H-300 (MW=134 g/mol) and Indopol H-1500 (MW=2160 g/mol) manufactured or sold by Amoco. ),
-Polyisobutene,
-Hydrogenated polyisobutylene, for example Parleam (registered trademark) sold by NOF CORPORATION, Panalane H-300E (MW=1340 g/mol) manufactured or sold by Amoco, manufactured or sold by Synteal Viseal 20000 (MW=6000g/mol), and Rewopal PIB1000 (MW=1000g/mol) manufactured or sold by Witco, or alternatively, Parleam Lite sold by NOF Corporation,
-Decene/butene copolymer, polybutene/polyisobutene copolymer, especially Indopol L-14,
-Polydecene and hydrogenated polydecene, such as Puresyn 10 (MW=723 g/mol) and Puresyn 150 (MW=9200 g/mol) manufactured or sold by Mobil Chemicals, or alternatively Puresyn 6, sold by ExxonMobil Chemical.
-As well as mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the (a) hydrocarbon oil is selected from the group consisting of polybutene, polyisobutene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, polydecene and hydrogenated polydecene, and mixtures thereof. More preferably, the (a) hydrocarbon oil is hydrogenated polyisobutene.

(b) Aromatic Silicone Oil The composition according to the invention comprises (b) at least one aromatic silicone oil. Two or more types of aromatic silicone oil can be used in combination.

In particular, the composition according to the invention comprises 43 to 90% by weight of aromatic silicone oil, preferably between 45 and 70% by weight, more preferably 50 to 70% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Between aromatic silicone oils.

The expression "aromatic silicone oil" (also referred to as "phenyl silicone oil" or "phenylated silicone oil"), as used herein, means a silicone oil having at least one phenyl substituent.

Preferably, the aromatic silicone oil is a non-volatile oil.

Furthermore, the aromatic silicone is preferably selected from compounds that are not compatible with (a).

Compatibility Testing For the purposes of the present invention, the term “incompatible oil” means that mixing these two oils does not lead to a homogeneous one-phase solution. The mixing is carried out with each oil having the same mass.

More specifically, oils are said to be "incompatible" when their mixing leads to phase separation, according to the following protocol.

For oils with viscosities less than 10,000 cPs (10 Pa.s) at 25°C, two oils to be evaluated were prepared at room temperature using a conical plastic centrifuge tube (reference: Corning®). Introduction into a 15 mL PET centrifuge tube, Rack Packed with Plug Seal Cap, Sterile (#430055 product) (at the desired mass ratio for the composition), which is placed in a Vortex Genie 2 machine, stirring at speed 10. Perform for 10 seconds, then manually invert the tube before replacing it in the stirrer.This cycle is repeated 3 times in succession.The mixture is then left at room temperature for 48 hours.

If at least one of the oils has a viscosity of 10,000 cPs (10 Pa.s) or more at 25° C., the mixture of the two oils (5 g/5 g) is subjected to the three agitation cycles described above. Place in the oven at 50°C for 30 minutes before.

The mixture is then observed.

Phases are said to be "separating" when the mixture separates into two phases and the separation of the two phases bounds sharply at the interface, and consequently the oils are not compatible.

In the opposite case, the mixture is observed with a phase contrast microscope at room temperature (about 25° C.). If a continuous phase and a dispersed phase in the form of droplets are observed, the phases are said to be "separated" and the oils are considered incompatible.

If only a single phase appears when observing the mixture, the phases are said to be "not separated" and the oils are considered compatible.

It is preferred that the composition comprises at least one (b) aromatic silicone that is not compatible with (a).

(b) The aromatic silicone may be selected from:
a) Aromatic silicone oil corresponding to the following formula (I):

(In the formula,
R groups independently of each other represent methyl or phenyl, provided that at least one R group represents phenyl).
Preferably, in this formula, the aromatic silicone oil comprises at least 3 phenyl groups, for example at least 4, at least 5 or at least 6.

b) Aromatic silicone oil corresponding to the following formula (II):

(In the formula,
R groups independently of each other represent methyl or phenyl, provided that at least one R group represents phenyl).
Preferably in this formula the aromatic silicone oil comprises at least 3 phenyl groups, for example at least 4 or at least 5.

c) Aromatic silicone oil corresponding to the following formula (III):

[In the formula,
Me represents methyl, y is between 1 1,000, X is represents a _{-CH 2 -CH (CH 3) (} Ph)]

d) Aromatic silicone oil corresponding to the following formula (IV):

(In the formula,
Me is methyl, Ph is phenyl, OR' represents the -OSiMe ₃ group,
y is 0 or ranges between 1 and 1000,
(z is in the range between 1 and 1000)
Specifically, y and z are numbers such that compound (IV) is a non-volatile oil.

According to the first embodiment, y ranges between 1 and 1000. It is possible to use, for example, trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone, sold in particular by the company Wacker under the reference Belsil PDM 1000.

According to the second embodiment, y is equal to 0. It is possible to use, for example, phenyltrimethylsiloxytrisiloxane, which is sold in particular under the reference name Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid (DC556).

e) Aromatic silicone oils corresponding to formula (V), and mixtures thereof:

(In the formula,
R ₁ to R ₁₀ are, independently of each other, a saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C _{1 to} C ₃₀ hydrocarbon-based group,
(m, n, p and q are each independently an integer between 0 and 900, provided that the sum of n+m+q is other than 0)

Preferably, the sum of m+n+q is between 1 and 100. Preferably, the sum of m+n+p+q is between 1 and 900, and better still between 1 and 800. Preferably q is equal to 0.

Preferably, R ₁ to R ₁₀ , independently of one another, are saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, straight-chain or branched C _{1 to} C ₃₀ hydrocarbon radicals, in particular C _{1 to} C ₁₂ hydrocarbons. It represents a systemic group, in particular C _{3 to} C ₁₆ , more particularly C _{4 to} C ₁₀ , or a monocyclic or polycyclic C _{6 to} C ₁₄ and especially a C _{10 to} C ₁₃ aryl group, or an aralkyl group. Preferably, R ₁ to R ₁₀ each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl group, or a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl group. R ₁ to R ₁₀ may be particularly the same or may be a methyl group.

f) Aromatic silicone oils corresponding to formula (VI), and mixtures thereof:

(In the formula,
R ₁ to R ₆ are each independently a saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C _{1 to} C ₃₀ hydrocarbon group, and preferably R ₁ to R ₆ are C _{1 to} C ₃₀ alkyl group, an aryl group or an aralkyl group,
(m, n and p are, independently of each other, an integer between 0 and 100, provided that the sum of n+m is between 1 and 100)

Preferably, R ₁ to R ₆ , independently of one another, are saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, straight-chain or branched C _{1 to} C ₃₀ hydrocarbon groups, in particular C _{1 to} C ₁₂ hydrocarbons. system group represents a particular to the C ₃ -C _16, more specifically from C ₄ -C _10, or a monocyclic or polycyclic C ₆ -C ₁₄ and in particular C ₁₀ -C ₁₃ aryl group, or an aralkyl group. Preferably, R ₁ to R ₆ each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl group, or a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl group.

R ₁ to R ₆ may be particularly the same or may be a methyl group. Preferably, in formula (VI), m=1 or 2 or 3, and/or n=0, and/or p=0 or 1 may be applied.

g) Aromatic silicone oils corresponding to formula (VII), and mixtures thereof:

(In the formula,
R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₅ and R ₆ together or separately are alkyl groups having 1 to 6 carbon atoms,
R ₃ and R ₄ are, together or separately, an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or an aryl group, provided that at least one of R ₃ and R ₄ is a phenyl group,
X is an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl group or a vinyl group,
n and p are integers equal to or greater than 1, selected to give an oil with a weight average molecular weight of less than 200,000 g/mol, preferably less than 150,000 g/mol, more preferably less than 100,000 g/mol)

Examples of preferred aromatic silicone oils that may be mentioned include, for example:
-Phenyl silicone oil preferably selected from: tetramethyltetraphenyltrisiloxane (e.g. PH-1554 HRI or Dow Corning 554 Cosmetic Fluid from Dow Corning), trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone [e.g. Belsil PDM 1000 from Wacker. Formula (IV) above)], phenyltrimethicone (eg, phenyltrimethicone sold under the trade name DC556 by Dow Corning), phenyldimethicone, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxane, diphenyldimethicone [eg Shin-Etsu Chemical. KF-54 (400cSt) from Kogyo Kogyo, KF54HV (5000cSt) from Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd., KF-50-300CS (300cSt) from Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd., KF-53 from Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd. (175cSt), KF-50-100CS (100cSt) from Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd., diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxane, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicate, trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane (eg Dow Corning PH by Dow Corning). -1555 product sold by HRI Cosmetic Fluid), diphenylsiloxyphenyltrimethicone (eg KF56A from Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.)
as well as
-A mixture of them.

The aromatic silicone is more preferably selected from:
-Phenyltrimethicone
-Diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone
-Diphenylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone
-Trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane
-Phenyldimethicone
-Phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxane
-Diphenyldimethicone
-Diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxane, and
-2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicate, and
-A mixture of them.

Preferably, the weight average molecular weight of the aromatic silicone oil according to the present invention is in the range of 500 to 10,000 g/mol.

In one aspect, (b) the aromatic silicone oil is at least one aromatic silicone oil having no dimethicone moiety, or at least one aromatic silicone oil having no dimethicone moiety, and at least It is selected from a mixture with one or more aromatic silicone oils having one dimethicone moiety.

When the composition comprises a mixture of an aromatic silicone oil having no dimethicone moiety and an aromatic silicone oil having a dimethicone moiety, at least one dimethicone moiety of the aromatic silicone oil having no dimethicone moiety. The weight ratio to the aromatic silicone oil having: may be 1:1 to 10:1, preferably 2:1 to 7:1, more preferably 3:1 to 5:1.

Most preferably, (b) the aromatic silicone oil is trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane, represented by formula (VIII):

(In the formula,
Me represents methyl and Ph represents phenyl).

Trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane is, for example, by Dow Corning under the reference name PH-1555 HRI or Dow Corning 555 Cosmetic Fluid (Chemical name: 1,3,5-trimethyl-1,1,3,5,5-pentaphenyltrisiloxane). Siloxane, INCI name: trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane) or sold by the company Dow Corning under the reference Dow Corning 554 Cosmetic Fluid.

Examples of aromatic silicone oils having at least one dimethicone moiety are, for example, those of formula (IV) (wherein y is not 0), formula (V) (where p is 0 without, R ₃ and R ₄ are CH ₃₎ and formula (VI) (wherein, p is not the 0, R ₃ and R ₄ is a compound represented by CH ₃ is a), for example, trimethylsiloxy Phenyldimethicone [for example Belsil PDM 1000 from Wacker (see formula (IV) above)], phenyldimethicone, diphenyldimethicone [eg KF-54 (400cSt) from Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Shin-Etsu Chemical] KF54HV (5000cSt) from Kogyo Co., Ltd., KF-50-300CS (300cSt) from Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd., KF-53 (175cSt) from Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd., and KF- from Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd. 50-100CS (100cSt)].

According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the (b) aromatic silicone oil is selected among aromatic silicone oils having no dimethicone moiety and mixtures thereof.

Specifically, and preferably, the (b) aromatic silicone oil is a mixture of trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane and diphenylsiloxyphenyltrimethicone.

(c) Wax The composition according to the invention comprises (c) at least one wax. You may use it in combination of 2 or more types of wax.

The composition according to the invention comprises 3 to 30% by weight of wax, preferably 4 to 20% by weight and more preferably 5 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

The term "wax," as used herein, is a solid at room temperature, with a reversible solid/liquid state change, a melting point of 30°C or higher, a melting point of up to 200°C, in particular up to 120°C. Means a lipophilic compound which may be

Specifically, the wax (c) suitable for the present invention can have a melting point of 45° C. or higher, specifically 55° C. or higher.

By bringing the wax into the liquid state (melting) it is possible to make it miscible with any oils that may be present and form a homogeneous mixture under the microscope, but at the temperature of the mixture. Upon returning the to room temperature, recrystallization of the wax in the mixture oil is observed.

For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the highest endothermic peak observed by the thermal analysis (DSC) described in ISO standard 11357-3, 1999. The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), such as the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA Instruments, according to general technical knowledge in the art.

The wax may in particular have a hardness ranging from 0.05 MPa to 15 MPa, preferably 6 MPa to 15 MPa. Hardness is determined by measuring the compressive force measured at 20° C. using a texturometer sold under the name TA-TX2i by the company Rheo. This texturometer comprises a stainless steel cylinder with a diameter of 2 mm, which cylinder moves at a measuring speed of 0.1 mm/s and penetrates into the wax to a penetration depth of 0.3 mm.

According to a preferred embodiment, the wax is a non-polar wax. The term “non-polar wax” as used herein means a wax, as defined above, having a solubility parameter δ _a at 25° C. equal to 0 (J/cm ³ ) ^1/2 . The definition and calculation of the solubility parameters in Hansen's three-dimensional solubility space are described in the article by CM Hansen, "The three dimensional solubility parameters", J. Paint Technol., Vol. 39, page 105 (1967).

In particular, the term "non-polar wax" means a wax formed only from non-polar waxes and not from mixtures that also include other types of waxes that are not non-polar waxes.

Examples of non-polar waxes suitable for use in the present invention include hydrocarbon waxes such as microcrystalline wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite and polyethylene wax, among others.

“Hydrocarbon wax,” as used herein, refers to a wax that is formed solely from carbon and hydrogen atoms and does not contain heteroatoms such as N, O and P.

Examples of polyethylene waxes include Performalene 500-L Polyethylene and Performalene 400 Polyethylene sold by New Phase Technologies. Examples of ozokelite include Ozokerite Wax SP 1020P. Microcrystalline waxes that can be used include Multiwax W445 (registered trademark) sold by Sonneborn, and Microwax HW (registered trademark) and Base Wax 30540 (registered trademark) sold by Paramelt.

(d) Pasty fatty substance The composition according to the invention comprises (d) at least one pasty fatty substance. Two or more kinds of pasty fatty substances may be used in combination.

The composition according to the invention, based on the total weight of the composition, 0.5 to 20% by weight of a pasty fatty substance, preferably 1 to 18% by weight, more preferably 5 to 15% by weight of a pasty fatty substance. Including.

The term "pasty fatty substance", for the purposes of the present invention, exhibits a solid/liquid reversible state change, which exhibits an anisotropic crystalline configuration in the solid state and comprises a liquid fraction and a solid fraction at a temperature of 23°C. Is understood to mean a lipophilic fatty compound.

The term "pasty" as used herein is understood to mean compounds with a hardness in the range of 0.001 to 0.5 MPa, preferably 0.002 to 0.4 MPa at 20°C.

The pasty fatty substance (d) of the present invention comprises an ester of a fatty acid and a branched polyol or a dimer of the polyol. Furthermore, in the ester, only part of the hydroxyl groups of the branched polyol or the dimer of the polyol is esterified with fatty acids.

The polyol in the ester comprises a branched polyol. Two or more different polyols can be used in combination.

The branched polyol may be aliphatic, cyclic or aromatic. Preferably, the branched polyol is an aliphatic branched polyol.

The branched polyol may contain from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 4 to 20 carbon atoms, more preferably 6 to 16 carbon atoms.

The branched polyol in the ester may have 3 to 12 hydroxyl groups, preferably 4 to 10 hydroxyl groups, more preferably 5 to 8 hydroxyl groups.

Preferably, the branched polyol is selected among branched sugar alcohols.

The polyol dimer may be a linear or branched polyol dimer. Preferably, the dimer of the polyol is the dimer of the branched polyols described herein.

Non-limiting examples of branched polyols or dimers thereof in the ester include ethylene glycol, pentanetriol, pentaerythritol, dipentaerythritol, neopentyl glycol, and combinations thereof, preferably dipentaerythritol. Can be mentioned.

According to the invention, (d) the pasty fatty substance comprises an ester in which only part of the branched polyol or its dimer is esterified with fatty acids.

The ester compound in which only a part of the branched polyol or its dimer is esterified corresponds to the ester compound in which the hydroxyl group of the polyol or its dimer is not completely esterified. That is, the ester compound comprises residues of branched polyols or dimers of polyols that are not fully esterified. In other words, the ester contains at least one unreacted hydroxyl group derived from the branched polyol/its dimer. Preferably, the ester contains two unreacted hydroxyl groups derived from the polyol or its dimer.

The term "residue of a polyol" or "residue of a dimer of a polyol" as used herein means a polyol/dimer in which the hydrogen atom has been removed from its hydroxy group. The term “fatty acid residue”, as used herein, means a fatty acid having a hydroxyl group removed from its carboxyl group.

The fatty acids in the ester may include more than one type of fatty acid. Preferably the fatty acid comprises at least one branched fatty acid. The branched fatty acid may be a saturated or unsaturated branched aliphatic fatty acid. The number of carbon atoms of the branched fatty acid may be 4 to 30, preferably 8 to 26, more preferably 12 to 22. Such fatty acids include, but are not limited to, isostearic acid, isoarachidic acid and octyldodecanoic acid, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the fatty acids in the ester include at least one hydroxyl fatty acid. Hydroxyl fatty acid means a hydroxylated aliphatic fatty acid. Such hydroxyl fatty acids may have 4 to 30 carbon atoms, such as 8 to 26 carbon atoms, or 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and have 1 to 20 hydroxyl groups, such as 1 to 10 carbon atoms. Or may have 1 to 6 hydroxyl groups. Two or more different hydroxyl fatty acids can be used in combination. Preferably, the hydroxyl fatty acid is a monohydroxylated fatty acid such as 12-hydroxystearic acid.

In another aspect of the invention, the fatty acids in the ester may include linear aliphatic fatty acids. Such linear fatty acids may be saturated or unsaturated and the fatty acids may have 4 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 26 carbon atoms, more preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms. ..

Non-limiting examples of additional linear fatty acids include hexanoic acid, heptanoic acid, octanoic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, nonanoic acid, decanoic acid, undecanoic acid, dodecanoic acid, tridecanoic acid, tetradecanoic acid, pentadecanoic acid. , Hexadecanoic acid, hexyldecanoic acid, heptadecanoic acid, octadecanoic acid, nonadecanoic acid, eicosanoic acid, heneicosanoic acid, docosanoic acid, palmitooleic acid, and mixtures thereof.

In a further preferred embodiment of the present invention, the fatty acid in the ester compound is a mixture of branched fatty acid such as isostearic acid, isoarachidic acid and octyldodecanoic acid and hydroxyl fatty acid such as 12-hydroxystearic acid. More specifically, the fatty acid is a mixture of 12-hydroxystearic acid and isostearic acid.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, (d) the pasty fatty substance is a tetraester of a mixture of dipentaerythritol and 12-hydroxystearic acid and isostearic acid, for example tetrahydroxystearic acid/tetraisostearic acid. It is dipentaerythrityl (trade name Salacos-168EV from Nisshin Oillio Co., Ltd.).

(e) Other Ingredients The composition according to the invention may comprise other ingredients commonly used in cosmetic compositions for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or lips. Other components can include, but are not limited to, physiologically acceptable media, oils other than components (a) and (b), fillers, dyes and various additives.

Physiologically acceptable medium For the purposes of the present invention, the term "physiologically acceptable medium" means a medium suitable for applying the cosmetic composition to the skin and/or the lips, for example a cosmetic composition. It is intended to indicate water, a water-miscible solvent or an organic solvent commonly used in the industry.

The physiologically acceptable medium (acceptable, tolerability, toxicity and feel) will be conditioned on the nature of the support on which the composition is to be applied, and also thereat It is generally adapted to the form.

In a preferred embodiment, especially in the case of compositions intended to care and/or make up the lips, the composition used according to the invention is anhydrous or to the total weight of the composition. In contrast, it contains less than 3% by weight of water, preferably less than 1% by weight.

The term "anhydrous" specifically means that water, preferably not intentionally added to the composition, may be present in trace amounts in the various compounds used in the composition.

Other oil
(Non-aromatic silicone oil)
The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one non-aromatic silicone oil.

The expression "non-aromatic silicone oil" means a silicone oil that has no phenyl substituents.

Representative of these non-aromatic silicone oils that may be mentioned are polydimethylsiloxanes; alkyldimethicones; vinylmethylmethicones; and also optionally fluorinated aliphatic groups, or hydroxyls, thiols and/or amines. Silicones modified with functional groups such as groups are included. “Dimethicone” (INCI name) corresponds to polydimethylsiloxane (chemical name).

The non-aromatic silicone oil may be selected from:
-Non-volatile polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS)
PDMS which are pendant and/or at the end of the silicone chain and in which these groups each contain an alkyl or alkoxy group having 2 to 24 carbon atoms, for example the commercial reference ABIL WAX 9801 from the company Evonik Goldschmidt. Cetyl dimethicone for sale
-PDMS containing functional groups such as aliphatic and/or aromatic groups or hydroxyl, thiol and/or amine groups
A polyalkylmethylsiloxane, for example cetyl dimethicone sold under the commercial reference ABIL WAX9801 by the company Evonik Goldschmidt, or a polyalkylmethylsiloxane optionally substituted with fluorinated groups, for example polymethyltrifluoropropyldimethylsiloxane
-Polyalkylmethylsiloxane substituted with functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and/or amine groups
-Polysiloxanes modified with fatty acids, fatty alcohols or polyoxyalkylenes, and mixtures thereof.

(Fluoro oil)
The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one fluoro oil.

The term "fluoro oil" means an oil containing at least one fluorine atom.

Fluoro oils that may be used in the present invention may be selected from fluorosilicone oils, fluoropolyethers and fluorosilicones described in EP-A-847752, and perfluoro compounds.

The term "perfluoro compound" means a compound in which all hydrogen atoms have been replaced by fluorine atoms. Examples of perfluoro oils that may be used in the present invention include perfluorodecalin and perfluoroperhydrophenanthrene.

Fillers The makeup and/or care composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more fillers.

The term "filler" should be understood to mean particles of any shape, colorless or white, inorganic or synthetic, which are insoluble in the medium of the composition, regardless of the temperature at which the composition is manufactured. .. These fillers are particularly useful for modifying the rheology or texture of the composition.

The filler may be inorganic or organic and has any shape such as small flat, spherical or elliptical regardless of crystallographic form (e.g., layered, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic). be able to. Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, clay, titanium dioxide, tin oxide, benton, fumed silica particles and polyamide [Nylon, optionally treated hydrophilically or hydrophobically. ® powder [Orgasol ® from Atochem], poly-β-alanine powder and polyethylene powder, tetrafluoroethylene polymer [Teflon ®] powder, lauroyl lysine, starch, boron nitride, hollow Polymeric microspheres such as polyvinylidene chloride/acrylonitrile microspheres such as Expancel® (Nobel Industrie), acrylic acid copolymer microspheres [eg Polytrap® from Dow Corning] and silicone resin microbeads [eg Tospearls® from Toshiba Corporation], calcium aluminum borosilicate, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium bicarbonate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres [Silica Beads® from Maprecos], elastomeric Polyorganosiloxane particles, glass or ceramic microcapsules, and metallic soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, and preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc stearate, stearic acid. Magnesium, lithium stearate, zinc laurate or magnesium myristate, and mixtures thereof.

They may also be particles comprising a copolymer, said copolymer comprising trimethylolhexyl lactone. In particular, it may be a copolymer of hexamethylene diisocyanate/trimethylolhexyl lactone. Such trimethylolhexylactone cross-polymer particles are, for example, commercially available, for example, under the name Plastic Powder D-400 (registered trademark) or Plastic Powder D-800 (registered trademark) from Tohoku Pigment Co., Ltd.

The filler may be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, better 1% to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

Dyes The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one dye (also known as colorant), these are pigments, water-soluble or fat-soluble dyes, pearls, which are well known to the person skilled in the art. It may be selected from brighteners and glitter flakes, and mixtures thereof.

The term "pigment" should be understood as meaning white or colored, inorganic or organic particles, which are insoluble in aqueous solutions.

Inorganic pigments which can be used according to the invention include titanium oxide, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, and also zinc oxide, iron oxide or chromium oxide, ferric blue, manganese violet, ultramarine blue and chromium hydroxide. ..

It can also be a pigment with a structure which may be of the type eg sericite/brown iron oxide/titanium dioxide/silica. Such pigments are sold, for example, by the company Chemicals and Catalysts under the reference name Coverleaf NS or JS and have a contrast ratio in the region of 30.

Dyes can also include pigments with a structure that can be, for example, the type of silica microspheres containing iron oxide. An example of a pigment having this structure is the product sold by Miyoshi Kasei Co. under the reference name PC BALL PC-LL-100P, which consists of silica microspheres containing yellow iron oxide.

Among the organic pigments which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of carbon black, D&C type pigments, cochineal carmine-based or barium-based, strontium-based, calcium- or aluminum-based lakes, or, alternatively, European patents. There are diketopyrrolopyrroles (DPPs) described in A-542669, European Patent A-787730, European Patent A-787731 and International Publication No. A-96/08537.

The term "pearlescent agent" may or may not be iridescent, and is specifically produced in its shell by certain mollusks or otherwise synthesized and produces optical interference. It is to be understood as meaning colored particles of any form, which have a color effect through.

Pearlescent agents are based on iron oxide coated titanium mica, bismuth oxychloride coated mica, chromium oxide coated titanium mica, organic dye coated titanium mica, and also bismuth oxychloride based It can be selected from pearlescent pigments such as pearlescent pigments. They can also be particles of mica, on the surface of which at least two continuous phases of metal oxides and/or organic dyes are laminated.

Among the commercially available pearlescent agents, mention may be made of the pearlescent agents Timica, Flamenco and Duochrome (mica) sold by Engelhard, the Timiron pearlescent agents sold by Merck, Eckart. There are Prestige mica based pearlescent agents sold by the company and Sunshine synthetic mica based pearlescent agents sold by Sun Chemical.

The term "dye" should be understood to mean a compound which is generally an organic compound, which is soluble in fatty substances such as oils or in the hydroalcoholic phase.

The composition according to the invention can also comprise water-soluble or fat-soluble dyes. The fat-soluble dyes are, for example, Sudan Red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, β-carotene, Sudan Brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5 and Quinoline Yellow. The water-soluble dye is, for example, beetroot juice or methylene blue.

The composition according to the invention can also contain at least one material with a special optical effect as a dye.

This effect differs from simple prior art tonal effects, i.e. uniform and stabilized effects such as those produced by standard dyes, e.g. monochromatic pigments. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "stabilized" means that there is no effect of color variation, depending on the viewing angle, or alternatively in response to temperature changes.

For example, this substance may be selected from particles having metallic shades, goniochromatic colorants, diffractive pigments, thermochromic agents, optical brighteners, and also fibers, in particular interference fibers. Needless to say, these various substances can be combined to simultaneously impart two types of effects or even a novel effect according to the present invention.

The dye may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 20% by weight, based on the weight of the composition.

Additives The composition according to the invention may also comprise, as a function of the intended use of the composition, at least one additive normally used in cosmetics, which is, for example, particularly hydrophobic. There are reducing agents, thickening agents, film forming agents, and silicone elastomers, softening agents, emollients, antifoaming agents, antioxidants, wetting agents, UV screening agents, preservatives, ceramides, cosmetic active agents, peptizers. , Neutralizing agents, fragrances, proteins, vitamins, propellants, hydrophilic or lipophilic, film-forming or non-film-forming polymers; lipophilic or hydrophilic gelling agents.

The above additives are generally present in their respective amounts between 0.01% and 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

Method of Preparation The composition according to the invention may be prepared by mixing the ingredients in a mixer well known in the art. Generally, the wax (c) is mixed under heating to reduce its viscosity.

It is preferable to add (b) the aromatic silicone oil after thoroughly mixing (a) the hydrocarbon oil, (c) the wax, and (d) the pasty fatty substance.

[Use of solid cosmetic composition]
The invention also relates to the use of the composition according to the invention for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips, comprising the step of applying the composition to the skin and/or the lips.

The invention also provides a cosmetic method for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips, comprising the step of applying at least one composition according to the invention to the skin and/or the lips.

With such uses and methods according to the invention, bright deposits with good color transfer resistance can be applied to the skin and/or the lips.

The invention will be described in more detail by way of examples, which should not be construed as limiting the scope of the invention.

Cosmetic Formulation of Solid Lip Products (Lipsticks) The compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 to 5 were prepared as solid lip makeup products. The components are shown below (shown in Table 1. In Table 1, all components are based on "wt%" of the active ingredient.

The following components were used as components (a) to (d) in the examples.
(a) Hydrogenated polyisobutene (PARLEAM V)
(b) Diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone (KF-56A)
(b) Trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane (DOW CORNING PH-1555 HRI COSMETIC FLUID)
(c) Polyethylene (PERFORMALENE 500-L POLYETHYLENE)
(c) Ozoke Light (OZOKERITE WAX SP 1020 P)
(d1) Tetrahydroxystearic acid/dipentaerythrityl tetraisostearate (Salacos-168EV from Nisshin Oillio Co., Ltd.)
(d'1) Dipentaerythrityl hexahydroxystearate (Salacos-168M from Nisshin Oillio Co., Ltd.)
(d'2) Dimer dilinoleic acid Dimer dilinoleyl bis (behenyl/isostearyl/phytosteryl) (Plandol-G)
(d'3) Bisdiglyceryl polyacyl adipate-2 (SOFTISAN 649)
(d'4) Petrolatum (ULTIMA WHITE PET USP)
(d'5) Macadamia nut fatty acid phytosteryl (YOFCO MAS)

Methods of Preparation The compositions of Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-5 were obtained according to the following protocol:

In the first stage, half of the (a) hydrogenated polyisobutene, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, filler and pigment were ground in a three-roll mill to obtain a pigment material.

In parallel, the remaining (a) hydrogenated polyisobutene, (c) wax, and component (d) or (d') were introduced into a heating pan and mixed at a temperature of approx. A mixture was obtained. After confirming that all the added components were well mixed, the component (b) was introduced. The pigment material obtained was incorporated into the mixture, then isohexadecane was introduced and stirring was continued until the mixture was homogeneous.

Finally, the composition was cast into a mold that had been preheated to 45°C to produce a stick with a diameter of 11.5 mm. The whole was left at room temperature for 5 minutes, then it was left to cool in the freezer for about 15 minutes to give a test lipstick.

Evaluation
(Color transfer resistance)
The transfer resistance was evaluated by applying the composition and rubbing the lower and upper lips together for 5 seconds, then pressing the lips into a white ceramic cup 5 minutes after application of the composition onto the lips.

(Glossiness)
Luminance was evaluated according to the following protocol:

The composition is applied on Bio Skin (Beaulax) by stroking it a certain number of times, and the brightness is measured with a gloss meter (GM-268, MINOLTA) under the conditions of an irradiation angle of 60 degrees and a reception angle of 60 degrees. did.

The amount of deposit was measured by its reduction in mass after application on BioSkin.

(Sensual performance)
The lipstick obtained according to Example 1 was evaluated by a consumer organoleptic test based on the following organoleptic properties by 10 panelists:
-Sliding
-Feel on the lips, and
-Stickiness immediately after application.

After the test, a fair judge asked the panelists a question.

result
(Color transfer resistance and glossiness)
The results of color transfer resistance and gloss are shown in Table 2 below.

As shown in Table 2, Example 1 has good color transfer resistance and good gloss, so that it can give a bright deposit on the lips. In particular, although the amount of the deposit of Example 1 was small as compared with the amount of the deposit of Comparative Example, Example 1 showed good brilliance. Therefore, it can be concluded that the composition according to Example 1 can effectively impart shine on the lips.

In contrast, the compound of any one of (d'1) to (d'5) is used as a pasty fatty substance containing no branched polyol moieties in which only some of the hydroxyl groups are esterified. Comparative Examples 1 to 5 that did not effectively produce the desired color transfer resistance and/or shine on the lips.

(Sensual performance)
The lipstick obtained according to Example 1 is highly valued according to the consumer sensory test, because it is
-Smooth slipperiness
-Soft feel on lips, and
-It is to give the feeling of no viscous immediately after application.

In addition, panelists evaluated the lipstick according to Example 1 as follows:
-The color appeared to be sufficient without adding excess coating.
-The lipstick imparts a shine that makes the lips appear wet immediately after application.
-The color lasted a long time.
-The lipstick did not make her feel thirsty throughout the day.

Claims (13)

(a) at least one hydrocarbon oil,
(b) at least one aromatic silicone oil,
(c) at least one wax,
(d) comprising at least one pasty fatty substance,
The (d) paste-like fatty substance contains an ester of a fatty acid and a branched polyol or a dimer of the polyol, and only part of the hydroxyl groups of the branched polyol or the dimer of the polyol is esterified with the fatty acid. ,
The fatty acid comprises a hydroxyl fatty acid having 4 to 30 carbon atoms ,
The (d) pasty fatty substance is contained in an amount of 0.5 to 20 mass% with respect to the total mass of the composition,
Composition. The composition of claim 1, wherein the fatty acid comprises more than one type of fatty acid. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the fatty acid comprises a branched fatty acid. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the polyol has 3 to 12 hydroxyl groups. 5. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the (a) hydrocarbon oil comprises a non-polar hydrocarbon oil. 6. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the (b) aromatic silicone oil comprises a non-volatile aromatic silicone oil. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the (a) hydrocarbon oil is contained in an amount of 5 to 30% by mass based on the total mass of the composition. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the (b) aromatic silicone oil is contained in an amount of 43 to 90% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the wax (c) is contained in an amount of 3 to 30% by mass based on the total mass of the composition. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the (d) pasty fatty substance is contained in an amount of 1 to 18% by mass based on the total mass of the composition. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, which is a solid. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, which is a cosmetic composition for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips. Composition for making up and/or caring for skin and/or lips according to any one of claims 1 to 12, comprising the step of applying a solid cosmetic composition to the skin and/or lips. Use of things.