JP2004262919A - Cosmetic composition containing hydrocarbon oil and silicone oil - Google Patents

Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To obtain a cosmetic composition exhibiting excellent cosmetic and feeling characteristics, especially staying power over time and further characteristics of gloss and comfort, and also forming a film having a sufficient staying power for lasting such characteristics for a whole day, especially in the point of the gloss. <P>SOLUTION: This cosmetic composition contains at least one phenylsilicone oil having ≥500 cSt viscosity and at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil having ≥500 g/mol molecular weight in a physiologically acceptable medium, and has >100 mean luster among 200 and >40 staying power among 100 after application. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2004,JPO&NCIPI

Description

  The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising a high viscosity phenyl silicone oil, a non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, a rheology modifier and a particulate phase in a physiologically acceptable medium. The composition is especially a care or makeup composition for skin, lips, or human skin skeletal appendages, such as hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, or nails, on both the human face and human body, including the scalp. . The compositions have significant cosmetic properties, in particular holding power, and impart gloss and / or comfort properties to the makeup or care product.

  The compositions according to the invention are in particular in the form of a make-up product for keratin substances (skin, lips, dermatologic appendages) and may have potentially non-therapeutic treatment and / or care properties. In particular this comprises a lipstick or lip gloss, foundation, loose or compact powder, brusher or eyeshadow, makeup base, concealer, tattoo product, mascara, eyeliner, nail enamel, artificial tanning product, or hair care or hair coloring product I do.

  The use of silicone compounds in cosmetic compositions, especially in make-up compositions, is familiar to the formulator. By way of example, mention may be made of EP-A-0407205, which describes a composition comprising a combination of silicone rubber and silicone oil, having excellent holding power, elongation and comfort. In particular, this combination gives the cosmetic composition exceptional sensory properties, in particular a non-greasy feel, spreading and lubricating properties, so that a particularly homogeneous film is obtained on the skin.

  Also known are the use of these silicone compounds for the purpose of increasing the holding power of cosmetic compositions, in particular make-up. The problem of poor retention is that, in the case of foundations and blushes, as a result of interaction with sebum and / or sweating, which is generally secreted by the skin, or in the case of lipsticks, with saliva Is characterized by a change in color (color change, fading) as a result of This requires the user to apply new makeup at frequent intervals, which wastes time.

  However, these silicone compounds sometimes cause formulation problems, especially the difficulty of dispersing the pigment in the composition containing the silicone medium, which results in poor color development of the composition and a more granular appearance. However, this keeps consumers away from this type of product and is undesirable for the production of shiny compositions.

  However, there are a number of cosmetic compositions in which the gloss properties of the deposited film, after application to keratin materials (skin, lip, skin skeletal deposits), are very important. For example, lipsticks, eye shadows, nail enamels, or certain hair products can be mentioned.

  FR 277 1628 describes the use of silicone rubber in a solution in phenyltrimethicone in a cosmetic composition. This rubber has the advantage of being soluble with the oils commonly used in cosmetics.

  EP 1112734 includes a transfer resistant composition comprising a hydrocarbon oil and a silicone oil that are insoluble in each other. The composition further comprises a volatile solvent.

EP-A-0407205 FR2771628 EP1112734 FR0207108 EP-A-1068854 EP-A-1086945 "Specialist Surfactants" edited by D. Robb, 1997, pp. 209-263, chapter 8 by P. Terech

  It is known among formulators to use oils with a high viscosity and a high refractive index, such as oily polymers, such as polybutene or certain vegetable oils (such as castor oil), to improve the gloss. However, it is not possible with these compounds to obtain films of the composition having sufficient holding power to last all day, especially in terms of gloss.

  Surprisingly, applicants have found that by using a combination of a high viscosity phenyl silicone oil and a non-volatile hydrocarbon oil that are soluble or dispersible with each other, excellent cosmetic and sensory properties, especially retention over time, It has been found that compositions exhibiting gloss and comfort properties and which are non-irritating are obtained with keratin materials.

  The present invention firstly provides, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one phenyl silicone oil whose viscosity is above 500 cSt and at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil having a molecular weight of more than 500 g / mol. A cosmetic composition comprising: a cosmetic composition having an average gloss greater than 100 out of 200 and a post-trial retention greater than 40 out of 100.

  The average gloss is conventionally measured using a gloss meter according to the following method. A Leneta contrast chart, part number Form 1A Penopac (Leneta contrast chart referenced Form 1A) is spread using an automatic spreader with a 50 μm layer of the composition whose average gloss is to be evaluated. The layer covers at least the white background of the chart. Immediately thereafter, the gloss is measured at 20 ° on a white background using a Byk Gardner microTri-Gloss gloss meter. The gloss of the composition may also be measured one hour after applying the composition.

  The average gloss of the composition measured at the time of application is preferably greater than 120, 130, 140, 150, and more preferably 160 out of 200.

  The average gloss of the composition measured one hour after application is preferably greater than 120 out of 200, more preferably greater than 130.

  The post-trial retention of the compositions of the present invention can be evaluated in groups of at least 10 people as described below. For each person, the decrease in the diffusion index of the incident light is measured with a film camera on the lips intended for cosmetic application. Calculate the average of 10 measurements. The measurement conditions are described in patent application FR0207108, the contents of which are incorporated herein by reference. Thereafter, each person applies a tissue to each lip. The decrease in the diffusion index of the incident light on the makeup lips is measured again and the average of the measurements is calculated. Participants in the retention evaluation drink hot drinks, then drink glass of water, eat four sandwiches and half an apple. The decrease in the diffusion index of the incident light after this meal on the makeup lips is measured and the average of the measurements is calculated.

  Post-trial retention measures a) the difference between the reduction of the diffusion index of the incident light on the lips after makeup after meals and the reduction of the diffusion index of the raw lips before application of the make-up, and b) Expressed as a percentage of the difference between the decrease in the diffusion index of the incident light on the makeup lips and the reduction in the diffusion index of the raw lips.

  The post-trial holding power of the composition according to the invention is greater than 40 out of 100, preferably greater than 50 out of 100.

  Secondly, the invention relates to a method comprising the steps of: a) in a physiologically acceptable medium, a) at least one phenylsilicone oil having a viscosity of at least 500 cSt; b) 600 g / mol A cosmetic composition comprising at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil having a higher molecular weight, and c) at least one rheology modifier, wherein said rheology modifier is a silicone wax.

  Thirdly, the present invention relates to a process comprising the steps of: a) in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one phenylsilicone oil having a viscosity of at least 500 cSt, b) at least one non-volatile carbon having a molecular weight of greater than 600 g / mol. A cosmetic composition comprising hydrogen oil and c) a particulate phase and less than 5% of a non-volatile oil.

  The invention further relates, fourthly, to at least one phenyl silicone oil having a viscosity of at least 500 cSt and at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil having a molecular weight of more than 600 g / mol in a physiologically acceptable medium. , Wherein the hydrocarbon oil is soluble or dispersible in the silicone oil.

  Similarly, the present invention relates to a phenyl silicone oil having a high viscosity of 500 cSt or more in a composition comprising a physiologically acceptable medium, and a phenyl silicone oil soluble or dispersible in said silicone oil and having a viscosity of more than 600 g / mol. There is provided the use of a combination with at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil having a different molecular weight, said composition having retention and gloss properties.

  Similarly, the present invention relates to at least one high-viscosity phenylsilicone as an agent for imparting holding power and / or gloss and / or comfort to a composition comprising a physiologically acceptable medium. There is provided the use of a combination of an oil with at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil having a molecular weight of more than 600 g / mol.

  The present invention is further directed to a cosmetic method for imparting holding and / or gloss and / or comfort properties to a film of a cosmetic composition, comprising at least one high viscosity phenyl silicone oil in said composition; A method comprising introducing an effective amount with at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil soluble or dispersible in the silicone oil and having a molecular weight greater than 600 g / mol.

  "Physiologically acceptable" means non-toxic and can be applied to human skin (including the inside of the eyelids), lips or dermatome.

"At least" one compound means one or more compounds.
“Oil” means any non-aqueous medium that is liquid at normal temperature (25 ° C.) and normal pressure (760 mmHg).
"Non-volatile" compounds are compounds that can be maintained on the skin or lips for hours. Non-volatile compounds especially have a non-zero vapor pressure of less than 0.02 mmHg (2.66 Pa) at normal temperature and pressure.

  "Volatile" compounds are compounds that can evaporate from the skin or lips in less than one hour. The volatile compound is selected from compounds having a vapor pressure of 0.02 mm to 300 mmHg (2.66 Pa to 40 000 Pa), preferably 0.1 to 90 mmHg (13 Pa to 12000 Pa), especially at normal temperature and normal pressure.

  “High viscosity” phenyl silicone oil is an oil having a viscosity of at least 500 cSt at 25 ° C., measured according to ASTM D-445 standards. The silicone oil is preferably not a silicone rubber. The high viscosity phenyl silicone oil advantageously has a viscosity at 25 ° C. of, for example, 500 to 10,000 cSt, preferably 600 to 5000 cSt, more preferably 600 to 3000 cSt.

  The composition according to the invention advantageously further comprises a low-viscosity phenylsilicone oil having a viscosity at 25 ° C. of less than 500 cSt, measured according to ASTM D-445 standard. The low viscosity phenyl silicone oil preferably has a viscosity at 25 ° C. of, for example, 5 to 499 cSt, preferably 5 to 300 cSt, more preferably 5 to 100 cSt.

  The high viscosity phenyl silicone oil and the low viscosity phenyl silicone oil (if present) include, for example, phenyltrimethicone, phenyldimethicone, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxane, diphenyldimethicone, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxane, or a different phenylsilicone. It may be a mixture of oils, and especially those corresponding to formula (A) below.

Where:
R ₉ and R ₁₂ are each independently a C ₁ -C ₃₀ alkyl group, an aryl group, or an aralkyl group,
R ₁₀ and R ₁₁ are each independently a C ₁ -C ₃₀ alkyl group or an aryl group or an aralkyl group,
U, v, w, and x are each independently an integer from 0 to 900 (provided that the sum of v + w + x is not 0 and the sum of u + v + w + x is 1 to 900; in particular, u + v + w + x is 1 to 900) Assume 800.
Preferably, v is 0.

The low-viscosity phenyl silicone oil preferably satisfies that the sum of u + v + w + x in the formula (A) is 1 to 150, more preferably 1 to 100, and further preferably 1 to 50. Preferably, in the formula (A), the sum of u + v + w + x satisfies 151 to 900, more preferably 160 to 800, furthermore 160 to 500.
In particular, the low viscosity phenyl silicone oil satisfies the following formula (B).

Where:
R ₈ is a C ₁ -C ₃₀ alkyl group, an aryl group, or an aralkyl group,
N is an integer of 0 to 100, more preferably less than 100,
M is an integer of 0 to 100, more preferably less than 100,
(However, it is assumed that the sum of n + m is 1 to 100, more preferably less than 100.)

  High viscosity phenyl silicone oils that can be used in the present invention include oils from PCR, 15M30 (500cSt) or Belsil PDM 1000 (1000cSt) from Wacker. The values in parentheses represent the viscosity at 25 ° C.

  Low viscosity phenyl silicone oils usable in the present invention include DC556 (22.5 cSt) and SF558 (10-20 cSt) manufactured by Dow Corning, AV8853 (4-6 cSt) manufactured by Goldschmidt, and Silbione 70 manufactured by Rhone Poulenc. 633 V 30 (28 cSt), PCR 15M 40 (50-100 cSt), 15M 50 (20-25 cSt), Bayer SF1550 (25 cSt), PK 20 (20 cSt), Wacker Belsil PDM 200 (200 cSt) and Belsil PDM 20 (20 cSt), and KF53 (175 cSt), KF54 (400 cSt), and KF56 (14 cSt) manufactured by Shin-Etsu.

  The high viscosity phenyl silicone oil may represent from 5 to 99%, preferably from 7.5 to 80%, more preferably from 10 to 60%, very preferably from 20 to 50% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

  The low viscosity phenyl silicone oil, if present, is from 5 to 99%, preferably 7.5 to 80%, more preferably 10 to 60%, very preferably 10 to 40% by weight of the total weight of the composition. May occupy.

  The weight ratio between the low viscosity phenyl silicone oil and the high viscosity phenyl silicone oil is, for example, 1/10 to 10/1, preferably 2/10 to 10/2, more preferably 3/10 to 10/5. May be. Preferably, this weight ratio is 1/3.

  The composition according to the invention has a molecular weight of more than 500 g / mol, preferably more than 600 g / mol, more preferably more than 650 g / mol, but not more than 15000 g / mol, and / or 20 ° C. Further comprising at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil having a refractive index greater than 1.440, advantageously greater than 1.450, more preferably greater than 1.460 (the refractive index is measured with a refractometer). .

  A "hydrocarbon" compound is a compound that contains primarily carbon and hydrogen atoms and any one or more functional groups selected from hydroxyl, ester, ether, and carboxyl functional groups. These compounds do not particularly have a -Si-O- group.

This non-volatile hydrocarbon oil is
Lipophilic polymers such as polybutylene, such as Indopol H-100 (molar mass or MM = 965 g / mol), Indopol H-300 (MM = 1340 g / mol), Indopol H-1500 (manufactured or marketed by the company Amoco) MM = 2160g / mol),
Hydrogenated polyisobutylene, such as Panalane H-300 E manufactured or sold by Amoco (M = 1340 g / mol, refractive index: 1.498), Viseal 20000 manufactured or sold by Synteal (MM = 6000 g / mol), and Rewopal PIB 1000 manufactured or sold by Witco (MM = 1000 g / mol),
Polydecenes and hydrogenated polydecenes, for example Puresyn 10 (MM = 723 g / mol) and Puresyn 150 (MM = 9200 g / mol), manufactured or sold by Mobil Chemicals,
Esters, for example linear fatty acid esters having 30 to 70 carbon atoms, for example pentaerythrityl tetraperargonate (MM = 697.05 g / mol);
Hydroxy esters such as diisomerate (MM = 639 g / mol, refractive index: 1.462),
Aromatic esters such as tridecyl trimellitate (MM = 757.19 g / mol),
Esters of C ₂₄ -C ₂₈ branched fatty acids or fatty alcohols, for example those described in EP-A-0955039, especially triisocetyl citrate (MM = 856 g / mol), pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate (MM = 697.05 g / mol), glyceryl triisostearate (MM = 891.51 g / mol), glyceryl triisostearate (MM = 1143.98 g / mol), pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate (MM = 1202.02 g / mol) mol), poly-2-glyceryl = tetraisostearate (MM = 1232.04 g / mol), or pentaerythrityl = 2-tetradecyltetradecanoate (MM = 1538.66 g / mol),
Oils of plant origin, such as sesame oil (820.6 g / mol),
A mixture of these,
You can choose from.

The volatile hydrocarbon oil is preferably straight-chain fatty acid ester having a total carbon number of 30 to 70, hydroxy esters, aromatic esters, esters of C ₂₄ -C ₂₈ minutes branched fatty acids or fatty alcohols, and their Selected from a mixture of

  The non-volatile hydrocarbon oil is preferably selected from linear fatty acid esters, esters of polyhydric acids with and without hydroxyl groups and fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof. More preferably, the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil is a hydroxyl-containing polyester, especially a polyester of a fatty monoalcohol and a hydroxy-containing polycarboxylic acid. The fatty monoalcohol preferably contains 16 to 22 carbon atoms and the polycarboxylic acid is preferably a dicarboxylic acid.

  The non-volatile hydrocarbon oil may comprise from 5 to 99%, preferably from 10 to 60%, more preferably from 15 to 50%, based on the total weight of the composition.

  The composition according to the invention comprises at least one rheology modifier, which makes up the physiologically acceptable medium.

  The rheology modifier can thicken and / or gel the composition. This may be present in an amount effective to increase the viscosity of the composition, particularly to the point where a solid gel, a product that does not flow under its own weight, is obtained. Thus, it is possible to obtain a stick. The rheology modifier is advantageously selected from waxes, fatty compounds which are pasty at room temperature (25 ° C.), lipophilic gelling agents, and mixtures thereof.

  The rheology modifier may be present at 0.5 to 65%, preferably 1 to 50%, more preferably 3 to 40%, very preferably 5 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

  For the purposes of the present invention, a "wax" is a solid at room temperature (25 ° C), reversibly changes from a solid to a liquid, having a temperature above 30 ° C, more preferably above 45 ° C, It is a lipophilic fatty compound having a melting point of about 1, a hardness of more than 0.5 MPa at room temperature, and having an anisotropic crystalline structure in a solid state. By bringing the wax to its melting temperature, it can be miscible with the oil and form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but by returning the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, the wax Recrystallize in oil.

  The waxes which can be used according to the invention include those generally used in the cosmetics field, in particular those of natural origin, such as, for example, beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricaly wax, mokurou, cork. Fiber wax, or sugarcane wax, rice bran, montan wax, paraffin wax, lignite wax, or microcrystalline wax, ceresin or ozokerite, hydrogenated oils, such as hydrogenated castor oil or jojoba oil; synthetic waxes, such as ethylene polymerization or co-polymerization Esters of fatty acids such as polyethylene wax obtained by polymerization, and Fischer-Tropsch wax or octacosanyl stearate, glycerides and silicone waxes which are solid at 30 ° C., preferably at 45 ° C. A ru- or alkoxy-dimethicone, wherein the alkyl or alkoxy chain has from 10 to 45 carbon atoms, which is solid at 30 ° C. and whose ester chain contains at least 10 carbon atoms, Or di (1,1,1-trimethylol-propane) tetrastearate (manufactured or marketed by Heterene under the name HEST 2T-4S); and mixtures thereof.

The rheology modifier preferably comprises a mixture of a microcrystalline wax and a silicone wax, for example an alkyl dimethicone having a C ₃₀ -C ₄₅ alkyl chain.

  The wax may be present in an amount of 0.1 to 50%, more preferably 1 to 30%, very preferably 3 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

  The rheology modifier may also be a fatty compound in the form of a paste at normal temperature (25 ° C.). “Pastey fatty compound” means a fatty substance having a hardness of 0.001 to 0.5 MPa, preferably 0.005 to 0.4 MPa, measured at room temperature. The paste also has a melting point between 20 and 60 ° C, preferably between 25 and 45 ° C. Pasty compounds are viscous products that include a solid fraction and a liquid fraction.

  These fatty substances are preferably hydrocarbon compounds, optionally of polymeric nature. They may also be selected from silicone compounds and / or fluorinated compounds. They may likewise be present in the form of mixtures of hydrocarbons and / or silicones and / or fluorinated compounds. In the case of a mixture of different pasty fatty substances, it is preferred to use the pasty hydrocarbon compounds in a major proportion.

  Pasty compounds suitable for use in the compositions according to the present invention include lanolin and lanolin derivatives, such as acetylated lanolin, magnesium lanolin, or oxypropylene lanolin, and mixtures thereof. Esters of fatty acids or fatty alcohols, especially those having a melting point of 20 to 35 ° C., such as triisostearyl citrate, arachidyl propionate and polyvinyl laurate; cholesterol esters; It is also possible to use triglycerides of origin, for example hydrogenated vegetable oils, viscous polyesters, for example poly (12-hydroxystearic acid), and mixtures thereof. Useful plant-derived triglycerides include derivatives of hydrogenated castor oil, such as Thixinr from Rheox, or lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, and stearic acid, manufactured or marketed by Sasol under the number Softisan 100. A mixture of triglycerides is included.

  Silicone pasty fatty substances, such as pendant chains of alkyl or alkoxy type having 8 to 24 carbon atoms, polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) having a melting point of 20-55 ° C., such as stearyl dimethicone, in particular products from Dow Corning Commercially available under the trade names DC2503 and DC25514, and mixtures thereof.

  The pasty fatty substance, when present, is present in a proportion of from 0.1 to 60% by weight, preferably in a proportion of 1-45% by weight, even more preferably in a proportion of 2-30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. It may be present in the composition.

The lipophilic gelling agent may be organic or inorganic, polymeric or molecular. Inorganic parent As mentioned in the good oily gelling agent, optionally modified clays, for example C ₁₀ to fatty acid chloride hectorite modified with a C _22, for example hectorite modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride hectorite; Exothermic silica, optionally with a hydrophobic surface treatment, with a particle size of less than 1 μm. Polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agents are, for example, partially or fully crosslinked, three-dimensionally structured, elastic organopolysiloxanes, such as those sold by the company Shin-Etsu under the names KSG6, KSG16 and KSG18, Dow Corning Trefil E-505C or Trefil E-506C sold by the company, Gransil SR-CYC, SR DMF10, SR-DC556, SR 5CYC gel, SR DMF 10 gel, and SR DC 556 gel sold by Grant Industries ethylcellulose, e.g. sold under the name Ethocel by Dow Chemical;; commercially available SF1204 and JK113 by company a copolymer of ethylene diamine and diacid condensed C _36, those having a weight average molecular weight of approximately 6000, for example, Arizona Compounds sold under the name Uniclear 80 and Uniclear 100 by Chemicals, rubbers, especially silicone rubbers, e.g. PDMS with a viscosity greater than 100000 centistokes, saturated or unsaturated alkyl chains Substituted sugar units per one 1 to 6, more preferably galactomannan containing from 2 to 4 hydroxyl groups, such as C ₁ to C _6, it is preferably alkylated with an alkyl chain of C ₁ to C ₃ guar gum , And mixtures thereof.

  As a preferred lipophilic gelling agent, also referred to as an organic geller, it establishes a physical interaction between its molecules, and thus involves the formation of a 3D supramolecular network, which is responsible for the gelation of the liquid fatty phase. A non-polymeric molecular organic gelling agent, which is a compound capable of causing self-aggregation of one another, is used.

  A “liquid fatty phase” for the purposes of the present invention is a fatty phase that is liquid at normal temperature (25 ° C.) and normal pressure (760 mmHg or 105 Pa), also called oil, and generally compatible with each other. Contains one or more fatty substances that are liquid at room temperature. In particular, this liquid fatty phase comprises the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil described above.

  From the formation of a network of fibrils (by stacking or agglomeration of organic geller molecules), a supramolecular network may be formed, which immobilizes the molecules in the liquid fatty phase.

  The tendency of this network of fibrils, and thus the formation of gels, depends on the nature (or chemical class) of the organic geller, or on the nature of the substituents carried on the molecule for a given chemical class, and on the nature of the liquid fatty phase. Depends on. Physical interactions vary, but look into co-crystallization. These interactions are, among others, self-supplementary hydrogen interaction types, π interactions between unsaturated rings, dipole interactions, coordination bonds with organometallic derivatives, and combinations thereof. Generally speaking, each molecule of an organic geller can establish physical interactions with many types of neighboring molecules.

  Furthermore, advantageously, the molecules of the organic gellar according to the invention comprise at least one group capable of establishing a hydrogen bond, more preferably at least two groups capable of establishing a hydrogen bond, at least one aromatic ring And more preferably at least two aromatic rings, at least one or more ethylenically unsaturated bonds and / or at least one or more asymmetric carbons. The group capable of forming a hydrogen bond is preferably selected from hydroxyl, carbonyl, amine, carboxylic acid, amide, urea, and benzyl groups, and mixtures thereof.

  The organic geller according to the present invention is soluble in the liquid fatty phase after heating to the point where a transparent and uniform liquid phase is obtained. These may be solid or liquid at normal temperature and pressure.

  Molecular organic gellers that can be used in the compositions according to the invention are, in particular, “Specialist Surfactants” edited by D. Robb, 1997, pp. 209-263, chapter 8 by P. Terech, European patent application EP-A-1068854. And EP-A-1086945 or WO-A-02 / 47031.

Among these organic gellers, in particular, amides of carboxylic acids, especially tricarboxylic acids, such as cyclohexanetricarboxamide (see EP-A-1068854), each having 1 to 22 carbon atoms, for example 6 to 18 carbon atoms. Diamines having a hydrocarbon chain, wherein said chain is substituted or unsubstituted by at least one substituent selected from esters, ureas and fluoro groups (see application EP-A-1086945), and especially Diaminocyclohexanes, especially diamides resulting from the reaction of trans-form diaminocyclohexane with acid chlorides, such as N, N'-bis (dodecanoyl) -1,2-diaminocyclohexane, amides of N-acylamino acids, such as N-acylamino acids And diamides resulting from the reaction of amines containing 1 to 22 carbon atoms, such as those described in WO-93 / 23008. , Especially an amide of N- acyl glutamate, which the acyl group represents an alkyl chain of C ₈ to C _22, manufactured under the name GP-1, for example, by N- lauroyl -L- glutamate dibutylamide (Ajinomoto Co. Or commercially available), and mixtures thereof.

  The lipophilic gelling agent may represent from 0.1 to 50%, preferably from 1 to 30%, more preferably from 2 to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

The particulate phase present in the composition according to the invention comprises pigments and / or nacres and / or fillers conventionally used in cosmetic compositions.
The fine particle phase is generally present in a proportion of 0.01 to 60% by weight, preferably 10 to 25% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

  According to the present invention, the rheology modifier is sequestered from the particulate phase, especially the filler optionally present in said particulate phase.

  The pigments may be white or colored, inorganic or organic, coated or uncoated, and spherical or elongated. Inorganic pigments include optionally surface treated titanium dioxide, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, and zinc oxide, iron oxide (black, yellow, brown, or red), or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate And Prussian blue. Organic pigments include organic lake type pigments of carbon black, barium, strontium, calcium or aluminum, or lakes based on coquinyl carmine. The pigment may be present in the final composition in a proportion of 0.05 to 40% by weight, preferably 2 to 20% for non-powder compositions.

  Nacreous pigments are white nacreous pigments, such as mica coated with titanium or bismuth oxychloride, colored nacreous pigments, such as titanium mica using iron oxide, especially titanium mica using Prussian blue or chromium oxide, as described above. May be selected from titanium mica using organic pigments of the type and nacre pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. It is also possible to use pigments having goniochromatic properties, in particular liquid crystal pigments or multilayer pigments. The nacre may be present at a level of from 0.01 to 20%, preferably at a level of from about 1 to 15%, based on the total weight of the composition.

  The filler (if present) may be present in a proportion of 0.01 to 35%, preferably 0.5 to 15% of the total weight of the composition. In particular talc, mica, kaolin, lauroyllysine, polyamide powders such as Nylon® (especially Orgasol), and polyethylene powders, polytetrafluoroethylene (Teflon®) powders, starch, boron nitride, copolymer microspheres, Examples include Expancel® (Nobel Industrie), Polytrap® (Dow Corning), Polypore® L200 (Chemdal Corporation), and silicone resin microbeads (eg, Tospeal®, manufactured by Toshiba). May be.

  The compositions according to the invention preferably contain no or little volatile oils, in particular less than 10%, preferably less than 5%, more preferably less than 2%, relative to the total weight of the composition; advantageously Contains no volatile oils.

  The composition according to the invention may further comprise further non-aqueous compounds other than the phenyl silicone oil and a non-volatile hydrocarbon oil having a molecular weight of more than 500 g / mol, wherein the compound is an oil, a rubber, a resin, It is selected from oily polymers, and mixtures thereof.

The rubber that can be used in the present invention is generally present in a form that is soluble in oil, and the resin may be liquid or solid at room temperature.
The nature and amount of rubber and resin are a function of the desired texture and mechanical properties.

Further oils may be hydrocarbon and / or silicone and / or fluorinated oils. These oils may be of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin. Possible examples of further oils that can be used in the present invention include:
-Hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene;
Vegetable hydrocarbon oils, for example liquid triglycerides of fatty acids having 4 to 10 carbon atoms, for example heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or jojoba oil;
Linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as liquid paraffin and their derivatives, and petrolatum;
Synthetic esters and ethers, especially esters and ethers of fatty acids, for example of the formula R ₁ COOR ₂ , wherein R ₁ represents the residue of a higher fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R ₂ represents from 1 to 40 carbon atoms Oils, such as isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, and 2-octyldodecyl, which represent a hydrocarbon chain containing atoms, where 10 ≦ R ₁ + R ₂ ≦ 41. Kate;
Fatty alcohols having 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, and oleyl alcohol;
C ₈ -C ₂₆ higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or isostearic acid;
-Fluorinated oils, optionally with partially hydrocarbon and / or silicone fractions;
Silicone oils, for example volatile or non-volatile, linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS); polydimethyl containing 2 to 24 carbon atoms, containing pendant or terminal alkyl or alkoxy groups of the silicone chain. Siloxane;
· And mixtures thereof;
Is included.

    The composition of the present invention comprises at least one additive conventionally used in the field of concern, such as water, dyes, fragrances, fragrances, antioxidants, preservatives, neutralizing agents, aqueous gelling agents, dispersants, It may further comprise cosmetic actives, and mixtures thereof. This additive other than water may make up from 1 to 70% of the total weight of the composition, more preferably from 1 to 60%, and from 0.0005 to 20%, more preferably from 0.001 to 20% of the total weight of the composition in the composition. May be present at a rate of 10%.

  "Beauty actives" are lipophilic or hydrophilic compounds that are beneficial to keratin substances, especially to the skin and lips.

The cosmetic actives which can be used according to the invention include vitamins A, E, C, B ₃ and F, provitamins such as D-panthenol, sedative actives such as α-bisabolol, aloe vera, allantoin, plant extracts Or essential oils, protective agents or reconstituting agents such as ceramides, freshness actives such as menthol and its derivatives, emollients (cocoa butter, dimethicone), humectants (arginine PCA), anti-wrinkle actives, It includes essential fatty acids, sunscreens, and mixtures thereof.

  The person skilled in the art will, of course, be able to add any supplemental additives and / or their amounts in such a way that the advantageous properties according to the invention are not impaired or essentially impaired by the intended addition. Would choose.

  The applications of the compositions according to the invention are diverse and relate to all cosmetic products, whether colored or not, in particular to lip makeup products such as lipsticks or lip glosses or also lip pencils.

  In a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention is in the form of a molded product, for example in the form of a stick, in the form of a dish usable by direct contact with a sponge, or in the form of a heating bag. It may be. In particular, it is in solid form, in which case it is used as a molded foundation, molded brusher or eyeshadow, lipstick, lip care base or balm, or concealer product. It may also be used in the form of a liquid foundation or lipstick, lip gloss, sunscreen product, or skin coloring product.

The composition according to the invention may comprise less than 5% by weight of added water, based on the total weight of the composition. In this case, it may in particular be present in the form of an oily gel, an oily liquid, an anhydrous paste or a stick, comprising a vesicle dispersion of ionic and / or nonionic lipids.
It may also be present in the form of a single or multiple emulsion with an oily or aqueous continuous phase, or in the form of an oily dispersion in an aqueous phase with vesicles of ionic and / or nonionic lipids.

  The composition according to the invention may be present in the form of a colored or colorless skin care composition, in the form of a sun protection composition or a makeup removal composition, or in the form of a hygiene composition. If it contains a cosmetic active, it may be used as a non-therapeutic treatment or care base on the skin, eg hands or face, or lips (lip balm that protects lips from cold and / or sun and / or wind), or May be used as a tanning product.

  The compositions according to the invention may also be used in the form of colored skin make-up products, in particular facial make-up products, such as blusher, blusher or eyeshadow, body make-up products such as semi-permanent tattoo products, or lip make-up Products, for example in the form of lipsticks or lip glosses, with potential non-therapeutic treatment or care properties, products for the makeup of skin skeletal appendages, such as nail enamels, mascaras, eyeliners, or It may be present as a hair care or hair coloring product.

The composition according to the invention is preferably present in the form of a lip makeup product, for example a lipstick or a lip gloss.
The lip makeup product is advantageously present in anhydrous form.

  The compositions of the present invention are, of course, physiologically acceptable, ie, non-toxic and can be applied to human skin (including the inside of the eyelids), lips, or skin skeletal appendages. It is especially cosmetically acceptable, that is to say comfortable in taste, feel, appearance and / or odor and can be applied several times a day for many months.

The compositions according to the invention may be manufactured by known processes commonly used in the cosmetics field.
The purpose of the following examples is to provide a non-limiting illustration of the present subject matter. The amounts are given in% by weight.

(Examples 1-4: Comparative Test-Lipstick)
The compositions characterized in Table 1 are as follows.
The composition of Example 1 comprises silicone oil, cyclopentasiloxane;
The composition of Example 2 comprises a volatile hydrocarbon oil, isododecane having a molecular weight of 170 g / mol;
The composition of Example 3 comprises a non-volatile hydrocarbon, isononyl isononanoate having a molecular weight of 284 g / mol and a refractive index of 1.436;
The composition of Example 4 according to the invention comprises diisostearyl malate having a molecular weight of 639 g / mol and a refractive index of 1.462.

(operation)
The pigment (phase C) is milled in phase A diisostearyl malate, after which the milled product is mixed with phase B (wax and paste) and the remainder of phase A. The mixture is heated in a jacketed pot for at least 30 minutes after the wax has completely dissolved.
The paste obtained is molded in a mold suitable for a stick, which is heated at 40-42 ° C and then kept at -18 ° C for 30 minutes. Remove the stick from the mold.

(Cosmetic evaluation)
Four lipsticks were evaluated by five qualified individuals according to various criteria.
The sticks of Examples 2 and 3 were determined to have poor adhesion properties due to excessively soft consistency; the stick of Example 1 was determined to adhere well to the lips but lost gloss over time .
The stick of Example 4 according to the present invention was determined to adhere well and the film of the composition was determined to be uniform and glossy.

(Example 5: Lipstick)
Phase A: Diisostearyl malate The remaining amount to be 100 phenyltrimethyltrisiloxane (20 cSt),
DC556 18 manufactured or sold by Dow Corning
Phenyltrimethyltrisiloxane (1000 cSt),
Belsil PDM 1000 27 manufactured or marketed by Wacker
B: Microcrystalline wax 10
C ₃₀ -C ₄₅ alkyl dimethicone 2.5
A mixture of triglycerides of lauric, myristic, palmitic and stearic acids (50/20/10/10),
Softisan 100 10 manufactured or sold by Sasol
C: Red 7 0.26
Red 21 0.06
Iron oxide black 0.09
Iron oxide tea 2.1
Titanium oxide mica 1.8
The operation is similar to that of the first to fourth embodiments.

(Cosmetic evaluation)
The holding power of this composition was assessed using a panel of 12 qualified lipstick-applied persons using instrumental and sensory methods.

The holding power was evaluated as follows.
-In the first stage, an assessment of the overall "sensory" retention is carried out 1 hour after application of the preparation on the lips.
• In the second stage, the “instrumental” retention was assessed after a series of tests in which “chewing” two tissue papers, drinking hot and then cold drinks, eating four sandwiches and one apple. Execute.

Sensory retention was rated on a scale of 1 to 10, where 1 corresponds to a formulation with no retention and 10 corresponds to a formulation with excellent retention.
Instrumental holding power is rated on a scale of 1 to 100, where 1 corresponds to a formulation with no holding power and 100 corresponds to a formulation with very good holding power.

Gloss and comfort were also evaluated by these 12 individuals.
Gloss was evaluated immediately after application of the formulation and one hour after that (the instrumental gloss was evaluated on a scale of 1 to 200, 1 corresponding to a completely dull formulation, 200 corresponding to a very glossy formulation Do). Instrumental gloss is measured using a gloss meter according to the following method. The Leneta contrast chart, Part No. Form 1A Penopac, is spread using an automatic spreader with a 50 μm layer of the composition whose average gloss is to be evaluated. The layer covers at least the white background of the chart. The gloss is then measured at 20 ° on a white background using a Byk Gardner microTri-Gloss gloss meter.
-Comfort was measured after 1 hour.

  The composition has excellent cosmetic properties, especially gloss and comfort, and its retention over time is satisfactory. The application of the film of the composition (easiness of application and lubricity) was also determined to be sufficient.

Claims (38)

  A cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one phenyl silicone oil having a high viscosity of 500 cSt or more and at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil having a molecular weight of more than 500 g / mol. A cosmetic composition having an average gloss greater than 100 out of 200 and a post-trial holding power greater than 40 out of 100.   A) at least one phenylsilicone oil having a high viscosity of at least 500 cSt in a physiologically acceptable medium; b) at least one soluble or dispersible in said silicone oil and having a molecular weight greater than 500 g / mol. Cosmetic composition comprising one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil and c) at least one rheology modifier, characterized in that said rheology modifier is a silicone wax.   In a physiologically acceptable medium, a) at least one phenyl silicone oil having a high viscosity of 500 cSt or more, b) at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil having a molecular weight of more than 600 g / mol, and c) fine particles. A cosmetic composition comprising a phase, wherein the cosmetic composition comprises less than 5% volatile oil.   A cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one phenyl silicone oil having a high viscosity of 500 cSt or more and at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil having a molecular weight of more than 600 g / mol. A cosmetic composition wherein the hydrocarbon oil is soluble or dispersible in the silicone oil.   The non-volatile hydrocarbon oil is selected from straight-chain fatty acid esters and polyesters of fatty alcohols and polyhydric acids with or without hydroxyl groups and mixtures thereof, characterized in that: A composition according to any one of the preceding claims.   6. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil is selected from hydroxyl-containing polyesters, especially polyesters of fatty monoalcohols and hydroxyl-containing polycarboxylic acids. .   The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil has a total carbon number of 30 to 70.   The non-volatile hydrocarbon oil is pentaerythrityl tetraperargonate, diisostearyl malate, tridecyl trimellitate, triisocetyl citrate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, glyceryl triisostearate, glyceryl = 2 8. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition is selected from tridecyl tetradecanoate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, and mixtures thereof.   9. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil accounts for 5 to 99% by weight, preferably 10 to 60% by weight, more preferably 15 to 50% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims.   The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the high viscosity phenyl silicone oil has a viscosity of 500 to 10,000 cSt at 25 ° C.   The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein the high viscosity phenyl silicone oil has a viscosity of 600 to 5000 cSt at 25 ° C.   The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, wherein the high viscosity phenyl silicone oil has a viscosity at 25 ° C of 600 to 3000 cSt.   13. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the high viscosity phenyl silicone oil comprises from 5 to 99% by weight of the composition.   14. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising a phenyl silicone oil having a low viscosity of less than 500 cSt.   15. The composition according to claim 14, wherein the low viscosity phenyl silicone oil has a viscosity of 5 to 500 cSt at 25C.   The composition according to claim 11 or 12, wherein the low viscosity phenyl silicone oil has a viscosity of 5 to 300 cSt at 25 ° C.   14. The composition according to any one of claims 11 to 13, wherein the low viscosity phenyl silicone oil has a viscosity at 25 [deg.] C of 5 to 100 cSt. The high-viscosity phenyl silicone oil and / or the low-viscosity phenyl silicone oil are represented by the following formula (A):

[Where,
R ₉ and R ₁₂ are each independently a C ₁ -C ₃₀ alkyl group, an aryl group, or an aralkyl group,
R ₁₀ and R ₁₁ are each independently a C ₁ -C ₃₀ alkyl group or an aryl group or an aralkyl group,
U, v, w, and x are each independently an integer from 0 to 900 (provided that the sum of v + w + x is not 0 and the sum of u + v + w + x is 1 to 900; in particular, u + v + w + x is 1 to 900) 800)
18. The composition according to claim 14, wherein the composition is selected from the group consisting of:   The composition according to any one of claims 11 to 15, wherein the low viscosity phenyl silicone oil accounts for 5 to 99% by weight of the composition.   The composition according to any one of claims 11 to 16, wherein the weight ratio of the low viscosity phenyl silicone oil to the high viscosity silicone oil is 1/10 to 10/1.   The composition according to any one of claims 11 to 17, wherein the weight ratio of the low viscosity phenyl silicone oil to the high viscosity silicone oil is 2/10 to 10/2.   19. The composition according to claim 11, wherein the weight ratio of the low viscosity phenyl silicone oil to the high viscosity silicone oil is 3/10 to 10/5.   23. The method according to claim 1, wherein the rheology modifier is selected from waxes, fatty compounds which are pasty at ambient temperature (25 ° C.), lipophilic gelling agents, and mixtures thereof. A composition according to claim 1.   Characterized in that the rheology modifier accounts for 0.1 to 65% by weight, preferably 1 to 50% by weight, more preferably 3 to 40% by weight, very preferably 5 to 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 23, wherein   The silicone wax is an alkyl dimethicone or an alkoxy dimethicone having an alkyl or alkoxy group containing 10 to 45 carbon atoms, which is solid at 30 ° C. and whose ester chain contains at least 10 carbon atoms. 3. The composition according to claim 2, characterized in that it is selected from: methylsiloxane esters or alternatively di (1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate, and mixtures thereof.   Non-polar hydrocarbon waxes selected from paraffin, lignite wax or microcrystalline wax, ceresin or ozokerite, synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes obtained from the polymerization or copolymerization of ethylene, Fischer-Tropsch waxes, and mixtures thereof. 26. The composition according to claim 25, further comprising:   24. The composition according to claim 23, wherein the lipophilic gelling agent is an organic geller.   The organic geller is an amide of a tricarboxylic acid, a diamide having a hydrocarbon chain each containing 1 to 22 carbon atoms, wherein the chain is unsubstituted or at least one selected from ester, urea, and fluoro groups. 28. The composition according to claim 27, wherein the composition is selected from amides of N-acyl-amino acids, and mixtures thereof.   The organic geller is selected from cyclohexanetricarboxamide, a diamide resulting from the reaction of diaminocyclohexane with an acid chloride, a diamide resulting from the reaction of an N-acylamino acid with an amine containing 1 to 22 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof. A composition according to claim 27 or 28, characterized in that:   27. The composition according to claim 26, wherein the lipophilic gelling agent comprises from 0.1 to 50% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 30% by weight, very preferably from 2 to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. 29. The composition according to any one of claims 28 to 28.   31. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the particulate phase comprises a pigment and / or nacre and / or a filler.   32. The method according to claim 1, wherein the particulate phase is present in a proportion of 0.01 to 60% by weight, preferably 5 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition.   33. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition is in the form of a skin skeletal appendage and / or a care and / or makeup product for the lips, body or face.   34. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition is in the form of a lip makeup product.   35. The composition according to claim 34, which is in an anhydrous form.   At least one phenyl silicone oil having a high viscosity of at least 500 cSt in a composition comprising a physiologically acceptable medium, and having a molecular weight greater than 600 g / mol that is soluble or dispersible in said silicone oil; Use in combination with at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, wherein the composition has retention and gloss properties.   In a composition comprising a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one high-viscosity phenyl silicone oil as an agent for imparting holding power and gloss to the composition, and at least one having a molecular weight of more than 600 g / mol. Use in combination with two non-volatile hydrocarbon oils. A cosmetic method for imparting retention and gloss properties to a film of a cosmetic composition, wherein the composition comprises at least one high viscosity phenyl silicone oil and is soluble or dispersible in the silicone oil; Introducing an effective amount with at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil having a molecular weight of greater than 600 g / mol.