CN106999418B

CN106999418B - Composition comprising hydrocarbon oil, aromatic silicone oil, wax and pasty fatty substance

Info

Publication number: CN106999418B
Application number: CN201580065329.9A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 白井雅子
Original assignee: LOreal SA
Current assignee: LOreal SA
Priority date: 2014-12-08
Filing date: 2015-12-01
Publication date: 2021-12-07
Anticipated expiration: 2035-12-01
Also published as: JP2016108280A; KR20170075790A; KR102092087B1; CN106999418A; JP6723684B2; WO2016093184A1

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition comprising: (a) at least one hydrocarbon oil, (b) at least one aromatic silicone oil, (c) at least one wax, and (d) at least one pasty fatty substance, wherein (d) pasty fatty substance comprises an ester of a fatty acid and a branched polyol or dimer of a polyol, wherein only a portion of the hydroxyl groups of the polyol or dimer of a polyol are esterified with the fatty acid.

Description

Composition comprising hydrocarbon oil, aromatic silicone oil, wax and pasty fatty substance

Technical Field

The present invention relates to a composition, more particularly a cosmetic solid composition for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips, comprising specific contents of hydrocarbon oils, aromatic silicone oils, waxes and pasty fatty substances.

The invention also relates to the use of such a composition for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips.

Background

Generally, when women use cosmetic products, especially lip products such as lipstick or lip gloss, they want the product not to transfer easily after application and the deposit of the product is shiny.

To date, some prior art documents have been published relating to cosmetic solid compositions for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips.

WO 2013/191300 discloses a solid cosmetic composition for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one fatty phase comprising:

-from 5% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of a non-volatile hydrocarbonated apolar oil or mixture thereof,

-a total content of non-volatile silicone oils ranging from 43% to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, at least one of which is a non-volatile phenylated silicone oil, and

-from 3% to 30% by weight of wax or a mixture thereof, relative to the total weight of the composition.

WO 2012/165130 discloses a cosmetic for lips characterized by comprising: (a)5 to 30 mass% of hydrogenated polyisobutene; (b)30 to 70 mass% of one or more methylphenylsilicones that separate when mixed with (a) at 25 ℃; (c) an oil content of 0.5 to 15 mass%, which is in: and when mixed with (a); and (b) separating upon mixing at 25 ℃; and (d)4 to 12 mass% of a wax.

JP-A-2012-82188 discloses ｃA solid cosmetic for lips, which comprises (ｃA) an adhesive oil (adhesive oil); (b) an exudation oil (seepage oil) having a lower viscosity than the viscosity of the adhesion oil; and (c) a wax which, when mixed with at least the exuded oil, disperses at 90 ℃ and solidifies at 25 ℃, and which separates when mixing (a) and (b) at 25 ℃, and is characterized in that (a) the adhesive oil disperses into (b) the exuded oil or (b) the exuded oil disperses into (a) the adhesive oil.

However, there remains a need to obtain cosmetic products for the skin and/or lips that provide deposits having good resistance to color transfer and effective in exhibiting shine.

Disclosure of Invention

It is an object of the present invention to provide compositions for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips, which produce deposits having good resistance to color transfer and effective in showing shine.

Another object of the present invention is the use of such a composition for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips.

The inventors have made intensive studies and have surprisingly found that the composition according to the invention provides glossy deposits with good transfer resistance.

Accordingly, the above object of the present invention can be achieved by a composition comprising:

at least one hydrocarbon oil (a) at least one hydrocarbon oil,

at least one aromatic silicone oil (b),

- (c) at least one wax, and

- (d) at least one pasty fatty substance,

wherein (d) the pasty fatty substance comprises an ester of a fatty acid and a branched polyol or dimer of a polyol, wherein only a portion of the hydroxyl groups of the polyol or dimer of a polyol are esterified with the fatty acid.

Preferably, the fatty acids comprise two or more types of fatty acids.

Preferably, the fatty acid further comprises a branched fatty acid and/or a hydroxy fatty acid.

In one embodiment, the polyol has from 3 to 12 hydroxyl groups, preferably from 4 to 10 hydroxyl groups, and more preferably from 5 to 8 hydroxyl groups.

Preferably, the hydrocarbon oil (a) comprises a non-polar hydrocarbon oil, preferably a non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oil, and more preferably hydrogenated polyisobutene.

In a preferred embodiment, (b) the aromatic silicone oil comprises a non-volatile aromatic silicone oil, preferably trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane.

The (a) hydrocarbon oil may be included in an amount of 5 to 30% by weight, preferably 5 to 25% by weight, more preferably 8 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The (b) aromatic silicone oil may be included in an amount of 43 to 90% by weight, preferably 45 to 70% by weight, more preferably 50 to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The (c) wax may be included in an amount of 3 to 30% by weight, preferably 4 to 20% by weight, more preferably 5 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The (d) pasty fatty substance may be included in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 18% by weight, more preferably from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention is a solid.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention is a cosmetic composition for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips.

The invention also relates to the use of said composition for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips, comprising the application of said composition to the skin and/or the lips.

Best Mode for Carrying Out The Invention

The composition according to the invention comprises:

at least one hydrocarbon oil (a) at least one hydrocarbon oil,

at least one aromatic silicone oil (b),

- (c) at least one wax, and

- (d) at least one pasty fatty substance,

The compositions according to the invention can produce deposits having improved resistance to color transfer and effective gloss development.

Hereinafter, the composition according to the present invention will be explained in a more detailed manner.

[ composition ]

The composition according to the invention may be in the form of a solid composition. In addition, the composition can be used for making up the skin and/or the lips, in particular for the facial skin or the body skin; it may be a skin tone product such as a foundation, face powder or eye shadow; lip products, such as lipstick or lip care products; concealer the product; blush; an eye line; lip or eyeliner; a body cosmetic product.

According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the composition is intended for making up the lips and it is more particularly a lipstick (stick of lipstick).

The compositions under consideration according to the invention and used in the process according to the invention are in solid form at 20 ℃.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "solid" characterizes the state of the composition at a temperature of 20 ℃. In particular, the solid composition according to the invention has a density of more than 30Nm at a temperature of 20 ℃ and at atmospheric pressure (760mmHg)^-1And preferably more than 40Nm^-1The hardness of (2).

Protocol for hardness determination:

the hardness of the compositions, in particular of the lipstick stick type, is determined according to the following protocol.

The lipstick sticks were stored at 20 ℃ for 24 hours, after which the hardness was measured.

The hardness can be determined at 20 ℃ by the "cheese wire" method, which consists in cutting a product rod (which is preferably a cylinder) transversely by means of a rigid tungsten wire with a diameter of 250 μm, by moving the wire at a speed of 100mm/min relative to the rod.

Hardness (in Nm) of samples of the compositions of the invention^-1Indicated) were measured using a DFGS2 tensile tester from Indelco-Chatillon corporation.

The measurement was repeated 3 times and then averaged. The average of the three values read using the tensile tester above (noted as Y) is given in grams. The average is converted to newtons and then divided by L, which represents the longest distance the filament has traveled. In the case of a cylindrical rod, L is equal to the diameter (in meters).

The hardness is converted into Nm by the following equation^-1：

(Y×10^-3×9.8)/L

For the measurements at the different temperatures, the rods were stored at the new temperature for 24 hours before the measurements were performed.

As indicated previously, according to this determination method, the solid composition according to the invention has a density of greater than or equal to 30Nm at 20 ℃^-1Preferably more than 40Nm^-1The hardness of (2).

Preferably, the composition according to the invention has in particular less than 500Nm at 20 ℃^-1In particular less than 400Nm^-1And preferably less than 300Nm^-1The hardness of (2).

Preferably, the composition according to the invention has, in particular, between 40Nm at 20 ℃^-1And 200Nm^-1A hardness value in between.

Preferably, the hardness is between 45Nm^-1And 100Nm^-1In the meantime.

Advantageously, the compositions under consideration according to the invention are oil-in-oil type compositions. In the oil-in-oil type composition of the present invention, (b) the aromatic silicone oil and (a) the hydrocarbon oil are in a stable oil-in-oil state before application without being separated from each other (i.e., without macroscopic phase separation of the (a) and (b) compounds). After the application, (b) the aromatic silicone oil reaches the surface of the deposit, and the separated aromatic silicone oil covers the adherent layer of the hydrocarbon oil. Thus, the resulting composition has good transfer resistance (especially color transfer resistance).

In addition to good transfer resistance, the inventors of the present application surprisingly found that the composition according to the present invention is effective in providing deposits with significant gloss, and completed the present invention.

Preferably, the oil-in-oil state of the composition of the present invention is not (b) the aromatic silicone oil (a) the hydrocarbon oil state.

Preferably, the oil-in-oil state of the composition of the present invention is (a) a hydrocarbon oil-in-oil state and (b) an aromatic silicone oil state.

(a) Hydrocarbon oil

The composition according to the invention comprises (a) at least one hydrocarbon oil. Two or more types of hydrocarbon oils may be used in combination.

More specifically, the composition according to the invention comprises from 5% to 30% by total weight of hydrocarbon oil, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition comprises from 5% to 25% by weight, more preferably from 8% to 25% by weight, of hydrocarbon oil, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The term "oil" as used herein means a water-immiscible non-aqueous compound that is liquid at room temperature (25 ℃) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

The term "hydrocarbon oil" (also referred to as "hydrocarbon-based oil" or "hydrocarbonated oil") as used herein means an oil consisting essentially of, or even consisting of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.

Preferably, the hydrocarbon oil is a non-volatile oil. The term "non-volatile oil" means an oil having a vapor pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure which is non-zero and less than 0.02mmHg (2.66Pa) and better still less than 10^-3mmHg (0.13Pa) oil.

Preferably, the hydrocarbon oil is a non-polar oil. The term "apolar oil" as used herein means a solubility parameter δ a equal to 0 (J/cm) at 25 ℃. (J/cm)³)^1/2The oil of (1). Definition and calculation of solubility parameters in hansenthreedimensional solubility space (Hansenthree-dimensional solubility space) in c.m. hansen paper: "the same-dimensional solubility parameters", J.Point techniques, 39,105 (1967).

(a) The hydrocarbon oils may be of vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin. Preferably, (a) the hydrocarbon oil may be chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin. Preferably, the (a) hydrocarbon oil contains more than 16 carbon atoms.

In particular, the (a) hydrocarbon oil may be selected from:

-liquid paraffin or a derivative thereof,

-squalane, which is a mixture of squalane,

-an isoeicosane, a mixture of isoeicosane,

-a naphthalene oil,

polybutenes, such as Indopol H-100 (molar mass or MW 965g/mol), Indopol H-300(MW 1340g/mol) and Indopol H-1500(MW 2160g/mol), which are sold or manufactured by the company Amoco,

-a polyisobutylene,

hydrogenated polyisobutenes, for example, sold by the company Nippon Oil falls

Panalane H-300E (MW 1340g/mol), sold or manufactured by Amoco, sold by Synteal, IncOr Viseal 20000(MW 6000g/mol) manufactured and Rewopal PIB 1000(MW 1000g/mol) sold or manufactured by Witco, or alternatively Parleam Lite sold by NOF Corporation,

-decene/butene copolymers, polybutene/polyisobutene copolymers, in particular Indopol L-14,

polydecenes and hydrogenated polydecenes, such as Puresyn 10(MW 723g/mol) and Puresyn 150(MW 9200g/mol), sold or made by Mobil Chemicals, or Puresyn 6, alternatively sold by ExxonMobil Chemical, and

-mixtures thereof.

Preferably, (a) the hydrocarbon oil is selected from the group consisting of polybutene, polyisobutene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, polydecene and hydrogenated polydecene, and mixtures thereof. More preferably, (a) the hydrocarbon oil is hydrogenated polyisobutene.

(b) Aromatic silicone oil

The composition according to the invention comprises (b) at least one aromatic silicone oil. Two or more types of aromatic silicone oils may be used in combination.

In particular, the composition according to the invention comprises from 43% to 90% by weight of aromatic silicone oil, preferably between 45% and 70% by weight, more preferably between 50% and 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The expression "aromatic silicone oil" (also referred to as "phenyl silicone oil" or "phenylated silicone oil") as used herein denotes a silicone oil having at least one phenyl substituent.

Preferably, the aromatic silicone oil is a non-volatile oil.

Furthermore, the aromatic silicone is preferably selected from compounds incompatible with (a).

Compatibility testing

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "incompatible oils" means that the mixing of the two oils does not produce a homogeneous, single-phase solution. The mixing was performed using the same weight of each oil.

More particularly, oils are said to be "incompatible" when they are mixed according to the following protocol resulting in phase separation.

For oils with viscosities less than 10,000cPs (10pa.s) at 25 ℃, the two oils to be evaluated are introduced (in the weight ratio required for the composition) into a conical-tipped plastic centrifuge tube (ref) at room temperature.

A15 mL PET centrifuge tube, sealed with a plunger in a tightly sealed holder (Rack Packed with Plug Seal Cap), sterile (Product #430055), was placed in a Vortex Genie 2 machine. Stirring was carried out at speed 10 for 10 seconds, after which the tube was manually inverted before it was placed back into the Vortex machine. This cycle was repeated 3 consecutive times. The mixture was then allowed to stand at room temperature for 48 hours.

If at least one of the oils has a viscosity greater than or equal to 10,000cPs (10pa.s) at 25 ℃, the mixture of the two oils (5g/5g) is placed in an oven at 50 ℃ for 30 minutes, after which three previous stirring cycles are carried out.

The mixture was then observed.

When the mixture separates into two phases and the separation profile of the two phases is clearly limited at the interface, the phases are said to be "separated" and the oils are therefore incompatible.

In the opposite case, the mixture was observed at room temperature (about 25 ℃) using a phase contrast microscope. If a continuous phase and a dispersed phase in the form of droplets are observed, the phases are said to be "separated" and the oils are considered to be incompatible.

If the observation of the mixture shows only a single phase, the phases are said to be "non-separating" and the oils are considered compatible.

Preferably, the composition comprises at least one (b) aromatic silicone, which is incompatible with (a).

(b) The aromatic silicone oil may be selected from:

a) an aromatic silicone oil corresponding to the following formula (I):

wherein the R groups independently of each other represent methyl or phenyl, with the proviso that at least one R group represents phenyl. Preferably, in this formula, the aromatic silicone oil comprises at least three phenyl groups, for example at least 4, at least 5 or at least 6 phenyl groups.

b) An aromatic silicone oil corresponding to the following formula (II):

wherein the R groups independently of each other represent methyl or phenyl, with the proviso that at least one R group represents phenyl. Preferably, in this formula, the aromatic silicone oil comprises at least three phenyl groups, for example at least 4 or at least 5 phenyl groups.

c) An aromatic silicone oil corresponding to the following formula (III):

wherein Me represents methyl, y is between 1 and 1,000 and X represents-CH₂-CH(CH₃)(Ph)。

d) An aromatic silicone oil corresponding to the following formula (IV):

wherein Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR' represents the group-OSiMe₃And y is 0 or in the range between 1 and 1000, and z is in the range between 1 and 1000. In particular, y and z render compound (IV) a non-volatile oil.

According to the first embodiment, y ranges between 1 and 1000. For example, trimethylsiloxyphenyl polydimethylsiloxane, sold in particular by the company Wacker under the reference Belsil PDM 1000, can be used.

According to a second embodiment, y is equal to 0. For example, phenyltrimethylsiloxytrisiloxane, sold inter alia with reference to Dow Corning 556Cosmetic Grade Fluid (DC556), may be used.

e) An aromatic silicone oil corresponding to the following formula (V), and mixtures thereof:

wherein:

-R₁to R₁₀Are independently of one another saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C₁-C₃₀The group of a hydrocarbon or a mixture of hydrocarbons,

-m, n, p and q are, independently of each other, integers between 0 and 900, with the proviso that the sum m + n + q is not 0.

Preferably, the sum m + n + q is between 1 and 100. Preferably, the sum m + n + p + q is between 1 and 900 and better still between 1 and 800. Preferably, q is equal to 0.

Preferably, R₁To R₁₀Independently of one another, represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C₁-C₃₀Hydrocarbyl, preferably saturated, and especially based on C₁-C₁₂Of hydrocarbons, especially C₃-C₁₆And more particularly C₄-C₁₀Or monocyclic or polycyclic C₆-C₁₄And especially C₁₀-C₁₃Aryl, or aralkyl. Preferably, R₁To R₁₀May each represent methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl, or alternatively phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl. R₁To R₁₀May in particular be identical and may additionally be methyl.

f) Aromatic silicone oils corresponding to the following formula (VI):

wherein:

-R₁to R₆Are independently of one another saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C₁-C₃₀Hydrocarbon radicals, preferablyR₁To R₆Is C₁-C₃₀Alkyl, aryl or aralkyl radicals

-m, n and p are, independently of each other, integers between 0 and 100, with the proviso that the sum n + m is between 1 and 100.

Preferably, R₁To R₆Independently of one another, represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C₁-C₃₀Hydrocarbyl, preferably saturated, and especially based on C₁-C₁₂Of hydrocarbons, especially C₃-C₁₆And more particularly C₄-C₁₀Or monocyclic or polycyclic C₆-C₁₄And especially C₁₀-C₁₃Aryl, or aralkyl. Preferably, R₁To R₆May each represent methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl, or alternatively phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl.

R₁To R₆May in particular be identical and may additionally be methyl. Preferably, m ═ 1 or 2 or 3, and/or n ═ 0 and/or p ═ 0 or 1 can be applied to formula (VI).

g) Aromatic silicone oils corresponding to the following formula (VII):

wherein:

R₁、R₂、R₅and R₆Together or separately, an alkyl group containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms,

R₃and R₄Together or separately, an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or an aryl group, with the proviso that R₃And R₄At least one of which is a phenyl group,

x is an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl group or a vinyl group,

n and p are integers equal to 1 or more, selected so as to obtain an oil having a weight-average molecular weight of less than 200,000g/mol, preferably less than 150,000g/mol and more preferably less than 100,000 g/mol.

As preferred aromatic silicone oils, mention may be made, by way of example, of silicone oils such as:

-phenyl silicone oils, preferably selected from: tetramethyltetraphenyltrisiloxanes (e.g., PH-1554HRI from Dow Corning or Dow Corning 554Cosmetic Fluid), trimethylsiloxyphenyldimethicones (e.g., Belsil PDM 1000 from Wacker corporation (see formula (IV)) phenyl trimethicones (e.g., phenyl trimethicones sold under the trade name DC556 by Dow Corning), phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones (e.g., KF-54 from Shin Etsu (400cSt), KF54HV from Shin Etsu (5000cSt), KF-50-300CS from Shin Etsu (300cSt), KF-53 from Shin Etsu (cSt), KF-50-100CS from Shin Etsu (100cSt)), diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilyl silicate, Trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane (e.g., the product sold by Dow Corning under the name Dow Corning PH-1555HRI Cosmetic fluid), diphenylsiloxyphenyltrimethicones (e.g., KF56A from Shin Etsu), and

-mixtures thereof.

More preferably, the aromatic silicone is selected from:

-a phenyl-polytrimethylsiloxane,

-diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicones,

-diphenylsiloxyphenyl polydimethylsiloxanes,

-a trimethyl-pentaphenyl-trisiloxane,

-a phenyl Polydimethylsiloxane (PDMDO),

-phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxane,

-a mixture of diphenyl-polydimethylsiloxane and of diphenyl-polydimethylsiloxane,

-diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxane, and

-2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicate, and

-mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the weight average molecular weight of the aromatic silicone oil according to the present invention is in the range of 500 to 10,000 g/mol.

In one aspect, (b) the aromatic silicone oil is selected from one or more aromatic silicone oils not having a polydimethylsiloxane moiety, or a mixture of one or more aromatic silicone oils not having a polydimethylsiloxane moiety and one or more aromatic silicone oils having at least one polydimethylsiloxane moiety.

If the composition comprises a mixture of aromatic silicone oils free of dimethicone parts and aromatic silicone oils having dimethicone parts, the weight ratio of aromatic silicone oil without dimethicone parts to aromatic silicone oil having at least one dimethicone part may be from 1:1 to 10:1, preferably from 2:1 to 7:1, and more preferably from 3:1 to 5: 1.

Most preferably, (b) the aromatic silicone oil is trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane represented by the following formula (VIII):

wherein Me represents methyl and Ph represents phenyl.

Trimethylpentyltrisiloxanes are for example manufactured by Dow Corning with reference to PH-1555HRI or Dow Corning 555Cosmetic Fluid (chemical name: 1,3, 5-trimethyl-1, 1,3,5, 5-pentaphenyltrisiloxane; INCI name: trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane) or sold by Dow Corning with reference to Dow Corning 554Cosmetic Fluid.

Examples of the aromatic silicone oil having at least one polydimethylsiloxane moiety are described above, for example, compounds represented by the following formulae: formula (IV) wherein y is other than 0; formula (V) wherein p is not 0 and R₃And R₄Is CH₃(ii) a And formula (VI) wherein p is not 0 and R₃And R₄Is CH₃For example trimethylsiloxyphenylpolydimethylsiloxanes (for example Belsil PDM 1000 from Wacker (see formula (IV) above)), phenyl polydimethylsiloxanes, diphenyl polydimethylsiloxanes (for example KF-54 from Shin Etsu (400cSt), KF54HV from Shin Etsu (5000cSt), K from Shin EtsuF-50-300CS (300cSt), KF-53 from Shin Etsu (175cSt), and KF-50-100CS from Shin Etsu (100 cSt)).

According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the aromatic silicone oil (b) is chosen from aromatic silicone oils not having a polydimethylsiloxane moiety and mixtures thereof.

Particularly preferably, (b) the aromatic silicone oil is a mixture of trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane and diphenylsiloxyphenylpolytrimethylsiloxane.

(c) Wax

The composition according to the invention comprises (c) at least one wax. Two or more waxes may be used in combination.

The composition according to the invention comprises from 3% to 30% by weight of wax, preferably from 4% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 5% to 10% by weight of wax, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The term "wax" as used herein denotes a lipophilic compound that is solid at room temperature, has a reversible state change in the solid/liquid state, has a melting point of greater than or equal to 30 ℃, which may be up to 200 ℃ and in particular up to 120 ℃.

In particular, the (c) waxes suitable for the present invention may have a melting point greater than or equal to 45 ℃ and in particular greater than or equal to 55 ℃.

By bringing the wax into a liquid state (melting), it is possible to make it miscible with the oil that may be present and to form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but after bringing the temperature of the mixture back to room temperature, recrystallization of the wax in the oil of the mixture is observed.

For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the melting point determined by, for example, standard ISO 11357-3; temperature of the maximum endothermic peak observed by thermal analysis (DSC) as described in 1999.

The melting point of the wax may be determined using a Differential Scanning Calorimeter (DSC), such as that sold under the name MDSC 2920 by TA Instruments, according to common technical knowledge in the art.

The wax may in particular have a hardness in the range from 0.05 to 15MPa and preferably in the range from 6 to 15 MPa. The hardness is determined by measuring the compression force, which is measured at 20 ℃ using a consistometer (texturometer) sold under the name TA-TX2i by the company Rheo, which is equipped with a stainless steel cylinder having a diameter of 2mm, is moved at a measuring speed of 0.1mm/s and penetrates into the wax to a penetration depth of 0.3 mm.

According to a preferred embodiment, the wax is a non-polar wax. The term "non-polar wax" as used herein denotes the solubility parameter δ at 25 ℃ as defined previously_aEqual to 0 (J/cm)³)^1/2The wax of (1). Definition and calculation of solubility parameters in hansen three-dimensional solubility space in c.m. hansen paper: "the same-dimensional solubility parameters", J.Point techniques, 39,105 (1967).

In particular, the term "non-polar wax" denotes a wax formed only from a non-polar wax and not from a mixture that also comprises other types of waxes that are not non-polar waxes.

As examples of non-polar waxes suitable for use in the present invention, mention may be made in particular of hydrocarbon-based waxes, such as microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite and polyethylene waxes.

As used herein, "hydrocarbon wax" means a wax formed solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and free of heteroatoms such as N, O and P.

Polyethylene waxes that may be mentioned include Performalene 500-L Polyethylene and Performalene400Polyethylene, sold by New phase Technologies. Ozokerite Wax, Ozokerite Wax SP 1020P, may be mentioned. As microcrystalline waxes which may be used, mention may be made of the Multiwax W sold by Sonneborn

And Microwax sold by Parameter corporation

And Base Wax

(d) Pasty fatty substance

The composition according to the invention comprises (d) at least one pasty fatty substance. Two or more pasty fatty substances may be used in combination.

The composition according to the invention comprises from 0.5% to 20% by weight of pasty fatty substances, preferably from 1% to 18% by weight, more preferably from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Within the meaning of the present invention, the term "pasty fatty substance" is understood to mean a lipophilic fatty compound having a reversible solid/liquid state change, which exhibits an anisotropic crystal arrangement in the solid state and comprises a liquid portion and a solid portion at a temperature of 23 ℃.

The term "pasty" as used herein is understood to mean a compound having a hardness at 20 ℃ ranging from 0.001 to 0.5MPa, preferably from 0.002 to 0.4 MPa.

The (d) pasty fatty substance of the present invention comprises an ester of a fatty acid and a branched polyol or a dimer of a polyol. In addition, in the ester, only a part of the hydroxyl groups of the branched polyol or dimer of the polyol is esterified with the fatty acid.

The polyol in the ester comprises a branched polyol. Two or more different polyols may be used in combination.

The branched polyols may be aliphatic, cyclic or aromatic. Preferably, the branched polyol is an aliphatic branched polyol.

The branched polyol may contain 2 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 4 to 20 carbon atoms, and more preferably 6 to 16 carbon atoms.

The branched polyol in the ester may have 3 to 12 hydroxyl groups, preferably 4 to 10 hydroxyl groups and more preferably 5 to 8 hydroxyl groups.

Preferably, the branched polyol is selected from branched sugar alcohols.

The dimer of the polyol may be a dimer of a linear or branched polyol. Preferably, the dimer of the polyol is a dimer of a branched polyol as described herein.

Non-limiting examples of branched polyols or dimers thereof in the esters include ethylene glycol, pentatriol, pentaerythritol, dipentaerythritol, neopentyl glycol, and combinations thereof, and dipentaerythritol is preferred.

According to the invention, (d) the pasty fatty substance comprises an ester in which only a part of the branched polyol or its dimer is esterified with a fatty acid.

The ester compound in which only a part of the branched polyol or its dimer is esterified corresponds to an ester compound in which the hydroxyl groups of the polyol or its dimer are not completely esterified. That is, the ester compound comprises a branched polyol or dimer of polyol residues that are not fully esterified. In other words, the ester includes at least one unreacted hydroxyl group derived from the branched polyol/dimer thereof. Preferably, the ester comprises two unreacted hydroxyl groups derived from the polyol or dimer thereof.

The term "polyol residue" or "dimer of polyol residues" as used herein means a polyol/dimer in which hydrogen atoms have been removed from its hydroxyl groups. The term "fatty acid residue" as used herein denotes a fatty acid from which a hydroxyl group has been removed from its carboxyl group.

The fatty acids in the ester may comprise two or more types of fatty acids. Preferably, the fatty acid comprises at least one branched fatty acid. The branched fatty acid may be a saturated or unsaturated branched aliphatic fatty acid. The number of carbon atoms of the branched fatty acid may be from 4 to 30, preferably from 8 to 26, and more preferably from 12 to 22. Such fatty acids include, but are not limited to, isostearic acid, isoeicosanoic acid, and octyldodecanoic acid, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the fatty acid in the ester comprises at least one hydroxy fatty acid. The hydroxy fatty acid means a hydroxylated aliphatic fatty acid. Such hydroxy fatty acids may have 4 to 30 carbon atoms, such as 8 to 26 carbon atoms or 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and 1 to 20 hydroxyl groups, such as 1 to 10 hydroxyl groups or 1 to 6 hydroxyl groups. Two or more different hydroxy fatty acids may be used in combination. Preferably, the hydroxy fatty acid is a monohydroxylated fatty acid, such as 12-hydroxystearic acid.

In another aspect of the invention, the fatty acids in the ester may comprise straight chain aliphatic fatty acids. Such straight chain fatty acids may be saturated or unsaturated, and the number of carbon atoms of the fatty acid may be from 4 to 30, preferably from 8 to 26, and more preferably from 12 to 22.

Additional non-limiting examples of straight chain fatty acids include caproic acid, enanthic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, pelargonic acid, capric acid, undecanoic acid, dodecanoic acid, tridecanoic acid, tetradecanoic acid, pentadecanoic acid, hexadecanoic acid, hexyldecanoic acid, heptadecanoic acid, octadecanoic acid, nonadecanoic acid, eicosanoic acid, heneicosanoic acid, docosanoic acid, palmitoleic acid, and mixtures thereof.

In another preferred aspect of the present invention, the fatty acid in the ester compound is a mixture of branched fatty acids (e.g., isostearic acid, isoeicosanoic acid, and octyldodecanoic acid) and hydroxy fatty acids (e.g., 12-hydroxystearic acid). In particular, the fatty acid is a mixture of 12-hydroxystearic acid and isostearic acid.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, (d) the pasty fatty substance is a tetraester of dipentaerythritol with a mixture of 12-hydroxystearic acid and isostearic acid, for example dipentaerythritol tetrahydroxystearate/tetraisostearate (trade name: Salacos-168EV, from NISSHIN OILLIO).

(e) Other Components

The compositions according to the invention may comprise other components commonly used in cosmetic compositions for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips. The other components may include, but are not limited to, physiologically acceptable media, oils other than components (a) and (b), fillers, dyes, and various additives.

Physiologically acceptable medium

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "physiologically acceptable medium" is intended to mean a medium suitable for applying a cosmetic composition to the skin and/or the lips, such as water, water-miscible solvents, or organic solvents commonly used in cosmetic compositions.

The physiologically acceptable medium (acceptable tolerability, toxicology and feel) is generally adapted to the nature of the support on which the composition is to be applied and also to the form taken by the composition to be conditioned.

According to a preferred embodiment, in particular in the case of compositions intended for caring for and/or making up the lips, the compositions used according to the invention are anhydrous or contain less than 3% by weight of water and preferably less than 1% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The term "anhydrous" especially means that water is preferably not deliberately added to the composition, but may be present in trace amounts in the various compounds used in the composition.

Other oils

(non-aromatic silicone oil)

The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one non-aromatic silicone oil.

The expression "non-aromatic silicone oil" denotes a silicone oil having no phenyl substituents.

Representative examples of such non-aromatic silicone oils that may be mentioned include polydimethylsiloxane; alkyl polydimethyl siloxane; vinyl methyl methicone; and also silicones modified with optionally fluorinated aliphatic groups, or silicones modified with functional groups such as hydroxyl, mercapto and/or amine groups. "polydimethylsiloxane" (INCI name) corresponds to polydimethylsiloxane (chemical name).

The non-aromatic silicone oil may be selected from:

-non-volatile Polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS),

PDMS comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, said alkyl or alkoxy groups being pendant and/or terminal to the silicone chain, each of these groups containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, for example cetyl polydimethylsiloxane sold under the commercial reference ABIL WAX 9801 from Evonik Goldschmidt,

PDMS comprising aliphatic and/or aromatic groups or functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and/or amine groups,

polyalkylmethylsiloxanes, such as cetyl polydimethylsiloxane sold under the trade reference ABIL WAX 9801 from Evonik Goldschmidt, or polyalkylmethylsiloxanes optionally substituted with fluorinated groups, such as polymethyltrifluoropropyldimethylsiloxane,

polyalkylmethylsiloxanes substituted by functional groups such as hydroxyl, mercapto and/or amine groups,

polysiloxanes modified with fatty acids, fatty alcohols or polyoxyalkylenes, and mixtures thereof.

(fluoro substituted oil)

The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one fluorinated oil.

The term "fluoro oil" means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.

The fluoro oils useful in the present invention may be chosen from fluoro oils, fluoro polyethers and fluoro ketones as described in document EP-A-847752, and perfluorinated compounds.

The term "perfluoro compound" means a compound in which all hydrogen atoms have been replaced by fluorine atoms. Mention may be made, as examples of perfluorooils which can be used in the present invention, of perfluorodecalin and perfluoroperhydrophenanthrene.

Filler material

The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more fillers.

The term "filler" is understood to mean colorless or white, mineral or synthetic particles of any shape, insoluble in the medium of the composition, regardless of the temperature at which the composition is made. These fillers are used, inter alia, to improve the rheology or texture of the composition.

The filler may be mineral or organic and be of any shape, flake, spherical or oblong, regardless of crystal form (e.g., flake, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, etc.). Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, clay, titanium dioxide, tin oxide, bentone, pyrogenic silica particles, polyamides optionally treated hydrophilically or hydrophobicically

Powder (from Atochem)

) Poly-beta-alanine powder, polyethylene powder, and tetrafluoroethylene polymer

Powders, lauroyl lysine, starch, boron nitride, hollow polymeric microspheres such as polyvinylidene chloride/acrylonitrile microspheres, for example

(Nobel Industrie), acrylic copolymer microspheres (from Dow Corning Inc.)

) And silicone microbeads (e.g. from Toshiba)

) Calcium aluminoborosilicate, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium bicarbonate, hydroxyapatite, hollow Silica microspheres (Silica from maprocos)

) Elastomeric polyorganosiloxane particles, glass or ceramic microcapsules, and metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc stearate, magnesium stearate, lithium stearate, zinc laurate or magnesium myristate, and mixtures thereof.

They may also be particles comprising a copolymer comprising trimethylol caprolactone. In particular, it may be a hexamethylene diisocyanate/trimethylol caprolactone copolymer. Such trimethylolpropane caprolactone cross-linked copolymer particles are especially commercially available, for example under the name Plastic Powder

Or Plastic Powder

Commercially available from Toshiki corporation.

The filler may be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight and better still from 1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Dye material

The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one dye (also called colorant) which may be chosen from pigments, water-soluble or liposoluble dyes, nacres and iridescent lakes, and mixtures thereof, well known to those skilled in the art.

The term "pigment" is understood to mean white or coloured, mineral or organic particles which are insoluble in aqueous solutions.

As mineral pigments which can be used in the present invention, mention may be made of titanium oxide, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, and also zinc oxide, iron oxide or chromium oxide, ferric blue, manganese violet, ultramarine blue and chromium hydrate.

It may also be a pigment having a structure which may be of the type sericite/brown iron oxide/titanium dioxide/silica, for example. Such pigments are sold, for example, by Chemicals and Catalysts under the reference Coverleaf NS or JS and have a contrast ratio in the region of 30.

The dye may also comprise a pigment having a structure which may be, for example, of the type of silica microspheres containing iron oxide. An example of a pigment having this structure is the product sold by the company Miyoshi under reference PC Ball PC-LL-100P, which consists of silica microspheres containing yellow iron oxide.

Among the organic pigments which can be used in the present invention, mention may be made of carbon black, pigments of the D & C type, lakes based on cochineal or on barium, strontium, calcium or aluminium, or alternatively Diketopyrrolopyrroles (DPP) as described in documents EP-A-542669, EP-A-787730, EP-A-787731 and WO-A-96/08537.

The term "nacre" should be understood to mean any form of coloured particles, which may or may not be iridescent, in particular produced by certain molluscs in their shell, or alternatively synthetic, and which have a colour effect via optical interference.

The nacres can be chosen from pearlescent pigments, such as titanium mica coated with iron oxide, mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with organic dyes and also pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also be mica particles on the surface of which at least two successive layers of metal oxide and/or organic dye are superimposed.

Among the nacres available on the market, mention may be made of the nacres Timica, Flamenco and Duochrome (based on mica) sold by the company Engelhard, Timiron nacres sold by the company Merck, Prestige mica-based nacres sold by the company Eckart, and Sunshine synthetic mica-based nacres sold by the company Sun Chemical.

The term "dye" is understood to mean a compound, generally organic, which is soluble in fatty substances such as oils or in the water-alcohol phase.

The composition according to the invention may also comprise water-soluble or liposoluble dyes. Examples of such liposoluble dyes are Sudan Red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, β -carotene, Sudan brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange5 and quinoline Yellow. The water-soluble dye is, for example, beetroot juice or methylene blue.

The compositions according to the invention may also contain at least one material having a specific optical effect as dye.

This effect is different from the simple regular hue effect, i.e. the uniform and stabilizing effect as produced by standard dyes (e.g. monochromatic pigments). For the purposes of the present invention, the term "stabilization" means the effect of lacking color variability with changes in viewing angle or alternatively in response to changes in temperature.

For example, the material may be selected from particles having a metallic colour, goniochromatic colorants, diffractive pigments, thermochromic agents, optical brighteners and also fibres, in particular interference fibres. Needless to say, these various materials may be combined so as to provide a simultaneous display of both effects, or even a display of the novel effects according to the invention.

The dye may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Additive agent

Depending on the intended use of the composition, the composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one additive commonly used in cosmetics, chosen, for example, from reducing agents, thickeners, film-forming agents (especially hydrophobic), silicone elastomers, emollients, antifoaming agents, antioxidants, moisturizers, UV-screening agents, preservatives, ceramides, cosmetic active agents, peptizing agents, neutralizing agents, fragrances, proteins, vitamins, propellants, hydrophilic or lipophilic, film-forming or non-film-forming polymers; lipophilic or hydrophilic gelling agents.

The above additives are generally each present in an amount of between 0.01% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preparation method

The composition according to the invention can be manufactured by mixing the ingredients with mixers well known in the art. Generally, the (c) wax is mixed under heat in order to reduce its viscosity.

It is preferable to add (b) the aromatic silicone oil after (a) the hydrocarbon oil, (c) the wax and (d) the pasty fatty substance are sufficiently mixed.

[ use of cosmetic solid composition ]

The invention also relates to the use of a composition according to the invention for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips, comprising the application of said composition to the skin and/or the lips.

The present invention also provides a cosmetic process for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips, comprising the application to the skin and/or the lips of at least one composition according to the invention.

Such use and method according to the invention can provide a glossy deposit with good resistance to color transfer to the skin and/or lips.

Examples

The present invention will be described in more detail by way of examples, which should not be construed as limiting the scope of the invention.

Cosmetic formulation for solid lip product (lipstick)

The compositions according to example 1 and comparative examples 1 to 5 were prepared as solid lip cosmetic products. The ingredients are shown in table 1 below. In table 1, all components are based on "wt%" of the active raw material.

The following ingredients were used as components (a) to (d) in the examples.

(a) Hydrogenated polyisobutene (PARLEAM V)

(b) Diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone (KF-56A)

(b) Trimethylpentyltrisiloxane (DOW CORNING PH-1555HRI COSMETIC FLUID)

(c) POLYETHYLENE (PERFORAMOLENE 500-L POLYETHYLENE)

(c) OZOKERITE (OZOKERITE WAX SP 1020P)

(d1) The method comprises the following steps Dipentaerythritol tetrahydroxystearate/tetraisostearate (Salacos-168EV from NISSIN OILLIO)

(d' 1): dipentaerythritol hexahydroxystearate (Salacos-168M from NISSIN OILLIO)

(d' 2): bis-behenyl alcohol/isostearyl alcohol/phytosterol dioleyl dioleate (Plandol-G)

(d' 3): bis-diglycerol polyacyladipate 2(SOFTISAN 649)

(d' 4): petrolatum (ULTIMA WHITE PET USP)

(d' 5): phytosterol macadamia nut oleate (YOFCO MAS)

Preparation method

The compositions of example 1 and comparative examples 1 to 5 were obtained according to the following scheme:

in the first stage, half of (a) the hydrogenated polyisobutene, pentaerythritol tetraisostearate, fillers and pigments are milled in a three-roll mill to obtain pigment material.

In parallel, the remainder of (a) hydrogenated polyisobutene, (c) wax and component (d) or (d') were introduced into a heating plate and mixed using Rayneri blending at a temperature of about 100 ℃ to obtain a homogeneous mixture. After confirming that all added ingredients were well mixed, component (b) was introduced. The pigment material was incorporated into the mixture, followed by the introduction of isohexadecane, and stirring was continued until the mixture was homogeneous.

Finally, the composition was poured into a mould preheated to 45 ℃ to produce a rod of 11.5mm diameter. The whole was left at room temperature for 5 minutes and then allowed to cool in a freezer for about 15 minutes to obtain a test lipstick.

Evaluation of

(resistance to color transfer)

The resistance to color transfer was evaluated after applying the composition and rubbing the lower and upper lips together for 5 seconds and after applying the composition to the lips by pressing the lips to a white ceramic cup for 5 minutes.

(gloss Properties)

Gloss was evaluated according to the following protocol:

the compositions were applied on Bio Skin (Beaulax) using a fixed number of strokes (strokes) and gloss was determined by a gloss meter (GM-268, MINOLTA) using conditions of 60 ℃ illumination angle and 60 ℃ acceptance angle.

The amount of sediment was determined by its weight loss after application to Bio Skin.

(organoleptic Properties)

The lipstick obtained according to example 1 was evaluated by 10 panelists according to the sensory consumer test for the following sensory properties:

-slidability (slipping),

-the tactile sensation of the lips, and

-tackiness right after application.

They were interviewed by a fair judge after the test.

Results

(color transfer resistance and gloss Properties)

The results of the color transfer resistance and gloss properties are shown in table 2 below.

As shown in table 2, example 1 had good color transfer resistance and good gloss properties, and thus it could provide a glossy deposit on the lips. In particular, although the deposit amount of example 1 was relatively low compared to those of comparative examples, it showed good gloss. Thus, it can be concluded that: the composition according to example 1 is effective to provide gloss on the lips.

In contrast, comparative examples 1 to 5 using the compound of any one of (d '1) to (d' 5) as a pasty fatty substance which does not include a branched polyol moiety in which only part of the hydroxyl groups are esterified, did not produce the desired color transfer resistance and/or did not effectively produce gloss on the lips.

(organoleptic Properties)

The lipstick obtained according to example 1 was highly evaluated according to sensory consumer tests, since it produced:

smooth sliding (smoothening),

a soft tactile impression to the lips, and

no sticky feel immediately after application.

Additionally, the panelists evaluated the lipsticks according to example 1 as follows:

the color was fully developed without adding additional coating.

It provides a shine to make the lips look wet just after application.

Color lasts for a long time.

It does not leave the lips feeling dry during the day.

Claims

1. A cosmetic composition comprising:

(a) at least one hydrocarbon oil containing more than 16 carbon atoms,

(b) at least one kind of phenyl silicone oil,

(c) at least one hydrocarbon-based wax, and

(d) at least one pasty fatty substance, which is,

wherein (d) the pasty fatty substance comprises an ester of a fatty acid and a branched polyol or dimer of a polyol, wherein only a portion of the hydroxyl groups of the polyol or dimer of a polyol are esterified with the fatty acid, the fatty acid comprising a hydroxy fatty acid having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, the ester comprising at least one unreacted hydroxyl group derived from the polyol or dimer of a polyol, and comprising (d) the pasty fatty substance in an amount of from 5 to 20 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the composition,

(b) the at least one phenyl silicone oil includes a phenyl silicone oil represented by the following formula (V):

wherein:

-m, n and q are, independently of one another, integers between 0 and 100, the sum m + n + q is between 1 and 100, and p is 0, and

comprising (a) a hydrocarbon oil in an amount of from 5 to 25% by weight, comprising (b) at least one phenyl silicone oil in an amount of from 45 to 70% by weight, and comprising (c) a wax in an amount of from 3 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the fatty acids comprise two or more types of fatty acids.

3. The composition of claim 1 or 2, wherein the fatty acid comprises a branched fatty acid.

4. The composition of claim 1, wherein the polyol has from 3 to 12 hydroxyl groups.

5. The composition of claim 1 wherein (a) the hydrocarbon oil comprises a non-polar hydrocarbon oil.

6. The composition of claim 1, wherein (b) the phenyl silicone oil comprises a non-volatile phenyl silicone oil.

7. The composition according to claim 1, wherein (a) hydrocarbon oil is contained in an amount of from 8 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. The composition according to claim 1, wherein (b) phenyl silicone oil is contained in an amount of from 50 to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. The composition according to claim 1, wherein (c) wax is contained in an amount of 4 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. Composition according to claim 1, wherein (d) pasty fatty substance is contained in an amount ranging from 5% to 18% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. The composition of claim 1, which is a solid.

12. The composition according to claim 1, which is a cosmetic composition for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips.

13. Use of a composition according to any one of the preceding claims for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips, comprising the application of the cosmetic solid composition to the skin and/or the lips.