FR3031298A1 - MASCARA SUNFLOWER WAX AND VOLATILE HYDROCARBON OIL - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a set of packaging and application of a make-up and / or care composition for keratinous fibers, in particular eyelashes or eyebrows, comprising: i) an anhydrous make-up and / or care composition, comprising: at least one sunflower wax and a volatile hydrocarbon oil, ii) an application element of said composition, and iii) heating means for bringing said composition to a temperature conducive to its deformability. An anhydrous composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, comprising at least one sunflower wax and a volatile hydrocarbon oil, as well as its use, are also claimed.

Description

The present invention relates to the field of makeup and / or care of keratin materials. It relates primarily to a set of packaging and application of a make-up composition and / or care of keratin fibers. It also relates to a cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibers, such as eyelashes and eyebrows, or false eyelashes, the application of which is compatible with heating. The subject of the invention is also a corresponding cosmetic process for makeup and / or care of these keratin materials. More particularly, the compositions considered according to the invention are in the form of a product for eyelashes such as a mascara, or a product for the eyebrows. It is advantageously a mascara. By "mascara" is meant a composition intended to be applied to the eyelashes: it may be an eyelash makeup composition, an eyelash makeup base (also called a base coat), a composition to be applied to an eyelash. mascara, also called top-coat, or else a composition for cosmetic treatment of eyelashes. Mascara is especially intended for human eyelashes, but also false eyelashes. According to one of its aspects, the present invention relates more particularly to so-called curling mascaras. Such compositions, especially based on hard waxes and tensor polymers, and dedicated to cold application, are described in particular in patent EP 0 928 607. With these compositions, the bending effect of the eyelashes can sometimes be judged. insufficient. In addition, its behavior in time is not optimal. In the application WO 00/74519, improved bending properties are reported using organogelators to replace all or part of the waxes of the composition. Experience has shown that the results obtained in terms of bending are disappointing. There are also different types of devices known as "curlers". According to a first type, the device is configured in the form of a clamp which, cold, before application of the make-up, makes it possible to pinch the eyelashes so as to induce curvature of the eyelashes before makeup of the latter. The implementation of this method is very difficult to achieve. In addition, this method has the major disadvantage of degrading the morphology of the eyelashes or even leading to tearing of the eyelashes. The results are also not optimal in terms of bending amplitude and especially the durability of the bending. It is also known to use such a device after application of the product. Experience has shown that the quality of the deposit is deteriorated by this subsequent step of shaping the eyelashes. What is more, this type of makeup is done in two gestures, the first dedicated to the application of the make-up composition on the keratinous fibers, and the second dedicated to mechanically provide the curvature to the keratin fiber coated with the composition. For obvious reasons, this requires more time on the part of the user, with very often an impossibility to reproduce the same quality of makeup with each use. More recently, US-A-5,775,344 has described a set of packaging and application of a product, including eyelashes, comprising a container containing the composition to be applied. A cover for closing an opening of the container is integral with a heating rod whose end is secured to an applicator, in particular in the form of a brush. The walls of the container are equipped with heating means so as to heat its contents prior to opening the container.

This type of device is therefore conducive to makeup in a single gesture, the composition being heated before application. However, the heated product can undergo harmful modifications as and when the heating takes place, for example impacting the stability of the product in the container, which can then be manifested by the formation of an inhomogeneous deposit when it is applied to the fiber keratin or more generally by a significant loss of quality of the product contained in the container may lead to an impossibility of sampling and / or application of the product. Furthermore, the compositions currently proposed with this type of device are not satisfactory to provide a significant initial bending effect and whose hold is sustained over time. The present invention specifically aims to meet this need.

Thus, the main object of the present invention is to provide a composition for coating keratinous fibers which makes it possible to bend the eyelashes in particular under the action of heat, and in particular to have good application properties in terms of slipperiness and playtime, this improvement being both in terms of initial bending and holding of this bending over time. The present invention also aims to provide a keratinous fiber coating composition having good application properties in terms of slipperiness and playtime. For the purposes of the invention, the term "playtime" is particularly representative of the frequency of the passage of the applicator in the eyelashes until the appearance of the first grains without the application being hampered by a feeling of brake. Another object is also to provide a composition compatible with an application using a heating instrument, such as a heating brush, which can take the composition, heat and apply the composition thus heated.

Another object of the present invention is to provide a composition for coating keratinous fibers, preferably a mascara, having a good hold on the eyelashes, and which is compatible with heating during its application. Another object of the present invention is to obtain a composition for coating keratinous fibers, preferably a mascara, giving rise to a loading deposit. Another object of the present invention is to provide a composition for coating keratinous fibers, preferably a mascara, allowing good separation of the eyelashes during its application. Thus, according to a first of its aspects, the present invention relates to a set of packaging and application of a composition for makeup and / or care of keratinous fibers, in particular eyelashes or eyebrows, comprising: i) a composition makeup and / or anhydrous care, comprising at least one sunflower wax and a volatile hydrocarbon oil, ii) an application member of said composition, and iii) heating means for bringing said composition to a temperature conducive to its deformability.

Advantageously, the composition may be contained in an assembly of the invention within a container or reservoir. Advantageously, the heating means of a packaging and application unit according to the invention are suitable for bringing the composition to a temperature greater than or equal to 30 ° C, preferably greater than or equal to 45 ° C, in particular to a temperature of between 50 ° C and 75 ° C, more preferably between 60 ° C and 65 ° C. Advantageously, these heating means are associated with the application element. As stated above, the combination of a composition according to the invention with a heating tool proves to have a beneficial effect on the desired effect. Thus, a composition according to the invention, which is non-invasive for the eyelashes, advantageously has an immediate bending effect greater than or equal to 150 with respect to a non-masked initial state of a false-eyelash test specimen. In addition, and as can be seen from the examples which follow, the inventors have, surprisingly, found that the compositions according to the invention exhibit a holding of the eyelashes curve made with respect to an initial state of the eyelashes not made with minus 6 hours, especially at least 12 hours, better until 24 hours. This behavior of the curve can be evaluated according to the make-up and evaluation protocol given below. More precisely, between the initial curled makeup state and the final curled makeup state, after 6 hours, better 12 hours, or even 24 hours, it is advantageously observed a maximum bending loss of less than or equal to 30 ° A. According to an advantageous embodiment, said composition comprises, as volatile hydrocarbon oil, at least isododecane, and preferably isododecane and isohexadecane. According to another embodiment, the compositions considered according to the invention comprise at least one volatile silicone oil. In particular, the volatile silicone oil may be chosen from linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) having from 3 to 7 silicon atoms. According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention is a mascara.

According to one embodiment, the compositions considered according to the invention comprise at least one polymer chosen from the group consisting of semicrystalline polymers, in particular chosen from poly (C 10 -C 30) alkyl acrylates; liposoluble film-forming polymers, especially a vinyl ester copolymer; and polymers (A) derived from the (co) polymerization of at least one C4 alkene monomer, and preferably comprises at least one semi-crystalline polymer, at least one liposoluble film-forming polymer and at least one polymer (A). ) derived from the (co) polymerization of at least one at least one C4 alkene monomer. In particular, the polymer (A) may have a molecular weight greater than or equal to 750 g / mol, advantageously between 800 and 10,000 g / mol, more preferably between 900 and 5,000 g / mol, and is preferably a homopolymer of polybut-1-ene. According to one embodiment, the compositions considered according to the invention further comprise at least one microwax, in particular a carnauba microwax.

According to one embodiment, the compositions considered according to the invention further comprise at least one non-volatile oil. According to another embodiment, the compositions considered according to the invention comprise at least one dyestuff, preferably chosen from pulverulent materials, liposoluble dyes, water-soluble dyes, and mixtures thereof. According to another of its aspects, the present invention further provides an anhydrous composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, comprising at least one sunflower wax and a volatile hydrocarbon oil. The subject of the invention is also a cosmetic process for makeup and / or non-therapeutic care of keratinous fibers, in particular eyelashes or eyebrows, comprising the application to said keratin fibers of a cosmetic composition according to the present invention, said wherein the composition is heated to a temperature greater than or equal to 30 ° C, preferably greater than or equal to 45 ° C, particularly at a temperature of between 50 ° C and 75 ° C, more preferably 60 ° C to 65 ° C.

In the preferred embodiment of the invention, the compositions are heated before application to the keratinous fibers. According to a preferred variant, the compositions considered according to the invention are an eyelash coating composition, in particular care and / or make-up of eyelashes and / or eyebrows and more particularly a mascara. The present invention relates more particularly to anhydrous or low-moisture mascaras, so-called waterproof mascaras, in the form of dispersions of waxes in organic solvents, in particular volatile organic solvents, more particularly volatile hydrocarbon solvents C 8 -C 16.

By "anhydrous composition" is meant a composition containing less than 5% by weight of water, better still less than 2% by weight of water, or even less than 0.5% by weight of water, and in particular free of water. water, relative to the total weight of the composition. If necessary, such small amounts of water may in particular be brought by ingredients of the composition which may contain residual amounts.

According to one particular aspect, the subject of the present invention is the cosmetic use of a composition according to the present invention, for obtaining a film deposited on keratinous fibers, in particular eyelashes or eyebrows, which is homogeneous and has improved bending properties and / or improved holding of this bending over time. Finally, according to another of its aspects, the present invention relates to the cosmetic use of a composition according to the present invention, to obtain a mascara with good playtime properties.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE COMPOSITION ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION As is apparent from the foregoing, the compositions according to the invention are suitable for deposition on keratin fibers, such as eyelashes or eyebrows.

I. Characteristics of the Physical Properties Bending effect and durability of this effect It has also been noted an improved and prolonged immediate bending effect of the keratin materials on which a composition according to the invention is applied. This bending has been evaluated according to the method explained later in this text. Thus, according to this method, a bending effect of a composition tested on a false eyelash specimen is evaluated by comparison with the curling of the eyelashes before application of the composition. For this, photos of the eyelashes are taken before and after application of the tested composition, if necessary at different times after application to observe the duration of this effect over time. The measurements are carried out manually on the photographs with a trigonometric protractor, and make it possible to determine a median angle "a" created between the base of the specimen and the plot of the average height of the fringe of the false eyelashes. As shown in Figure 2, the larger the angle "a", the more the eyelashes are bent. A composition according to the invention, which is non-invasive for the eyelashes, thus preferably has an initial bending effect of greater than or equal to 150, or even greater than or equal to 20 ° with respect to a non-masked initial state of a false test specimen. eyelashes, and retains after 8 hours, better after 12 hours, even better after 24 hours, a curling effect of the eyelashes greater than or equal to 150, or even greater than or equal to 20 °. Between the initial curled makeup state and the final curled makeup state, after 6 hours, better 12 hours, or even 24 hours, it is advantageously observed a maximum bending loss of less than or equal to 30 ° A. Playtime The compositions according to the invention advantageously have an optimized playtime.

For the purposes of the invention, the playtime qualifies the number of passages of the applicator in the eyelashes until the appearance of the first grains without the application being hampered by a feeling of brake. A protocol for qualifying this playtime is detailed in the examples below.

In view of the number of passages of the brush until the occurrence of grains, the compositions are qualified on a scale ranging from 1 (very good playtime) to 5 (very bad playtime), the formulas of the invention thus advantageously have a playtime less than 4 and more precisely 3, representative of a satisfactory playtime. After 15 passes of the brush, the false eyelash specimen does not present grains after makeup with a composition according to the invention. The formulas of the invention thus advantageously have a playtime value, measured in accordance with the protocol indicated below, of less than 4. Viscosity The compositions according to the invention advantageously have a texture that is suitable for their handling with a mascara-type brush. They are thus advantageously deformable in response to a mechanical but also thermal stimulus. According to a preferred variant, a cosmetic composition according to the invention is fluid at ambient temperature. Within the meaning of the invention, the qualification of "fluid" intends to characterize the fact that a composition according to the invention is not solid. In other words, it has sufficient fluidity to be endowed with flow properties. A composition of the mascara type is for example representative of this type of fluidity.

In particular, a composition according to the invention may advantageously have a viscosity evaluated by Rheomat R1V1200® with mobile 5, at 25 ° C. and 1 atm, ranging from 0.1 Pa.s to 50 Pa.s, and better ranging from 5 Pa.s and 30 Pa.s. II. Characterization of the compounds of the composition As can be seen from the foregoing, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one sunflower wax and at least one hydrocarbon volatile solvent.

Sunflower Wax "Wax" generally means a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25 ° C), with reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point greater than or equal to 30 ° C. C up to 200 ° C.

For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by the company TA Instruments.

The measurement protocol is as follows: A sample of 5 mg of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise from -20 ° C to 100 ° C, at the heating rate of 10 ° C / minute, then cooled from 100 ° C to -20 ° C at a cooling rate of 10 ° C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from -20 ° C to 100 ° C at a heating rate of 5 ° C / minute. During the second temperature rise, the variation of the power difference absorbed by the empty crucible and the crucible containing the wax sample as a function of temperature is measured. The melting point of the compound is the value of the temperature corresponding to the peak apex of the curve representing the variation of the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature. As sunflower wax suitable for the invention may especially be mentioned those especially marketed by KOSTER KEUNEN under the name Sunflower wax. Such a wax preferably comprises at least 90% of C42 to C60 compound (s), better still at least 95%, or even at least 99% of such compound (s). A composition according to the invention may in particular comprise from 0.1% to 10% by weight, and in particular from 1% to 5% by weight of sunflower wax, relative to the total weight of the composition. Of course this sunflower wax may be advantageously associated with one or more additional waxes.

Advantageously, if at least one other wax is present, the sunflower wax represents at most 25% by weight of the total weight of wax relative to the total weight of the composition.

Additional wax "Additional wax" means a wax which is not introduced in the micron state into said composition according to the invention, and which is different from sunflower wax. Preferably, during the preparation of a composition according to the invention, this (these) additional wax (s) undergoes (undergo) a heating step which leads to an at least partial melting of the said (s) additional wax (es). The additional wax (es) may be present in a composition according to the invention so that the total amount of additional wax and sunflower wax represents a higher content or equal to 5% by weight, preferably between 5% and 30% by weight, in particular between 8% and 20% by weight, preferably between 10% and 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition . These additional waxes are chosen from solid waxes at room temperature (25 ° C.) of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin and mixtures thereof.

These additional waxes advantageously have crystalline properties. A composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one additional wax selected from the group consisting of polar waxes, apolar waxes, and their mixture in particular comprises at least one polar wax and at least one apolar wax. Preferably a composition according to the invention comprises at least one additional wax chosen from the group consisting of carnauba wax, beeswax, in particular white beeswax, ozokerite wax, paraffin wax and their mixtures. a) Apolar waxes By "apolar wax", within the meaning of the present invention, is meant a wax whose solubility parameter at 25 ° C as defined below, δa is equal to 0 (J / cm3) 1/4 .

The definition and calculation of the solubility parameters in Hansen's three-dimensional solubility space are described in the article by C. M. Hansen: "The three dimensionnai soiubiiityparameters" J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967). According to this Hansen space: - δp characterizes the London dispersion forces resulting from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular shocks; δp characterizes the Debye interaction forces between permanent dipoles as well as the Keesom interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles; hh characterizes the specific interaction forces (hydrogen bond, acid / base, donor / acceptor, etc.) type; - 15a is determined by the equation: δa = (δp2 h2) 1/4. The parameters δp, δh, 15D and δa are expressed in (J / cm3) 1/4. The apolar waxes are in particular hydrocarbon waxes consisting solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms and free from heteroatoms such as N, O, Si and P. The apolar waxes are chosen from microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite, polyethylene waxes, and mixtures thereof. As ozokerite, mention may be made of Ozokerite Wax SP 1020 P. As microcrystalline waxes that may be used, mention may be made of Multiwax W 445® sold by the company Sonneborn, Microwax HW® and Base Wax 30540® marketed by the company Paramelt, and Cerewax® N ° 3 marketed by the company Baerlocher. As polyethylene wax, mention may be made of Performalene 500-L Polyethylene and Performalene 400 Polyethylene marketed by New Phase Technologies, Asensa® SC 25 211 sold by the company Honeywell and as paraffin we may mention the Ceraffine 56-58 marketed by BAERLOCHER. b) Polar waxes For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polar wax" is intended to mean a wax whose solubility parameter at 25 ° C 6a is other than 0 (J / cm 3) 1/4. In particular, "polar wax" is understood to mean a wax whose chemical structure is formed essentially or even consisting of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and comprising at least one highly electronegative heteroatom such as an oxygen atom. , nitrogen, silicon or phosphorus. The polar waxes may especially be hydrocarbon, fluorinated or silicone.

Preferably, the polar waxes may be hydrocarbon-based. By "hydrocarbon wax" is meant a wax formed essentially, or even constituted, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly of oxygen, nitrogen, and not containing a silicon atom or fluorine. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups.

By "ester wax" is meant according to the invention a wax comprising at least one ester function. By "alcohol wax" is meant according to the invention a wax comprising at least one alcohol function, that is to say comprising at least one free hydroxyl (OH) group. It is especially possible to use as polar waxes those as chosen from: i) waxes of formula R 1 COOR 2 in which R 1 and R 2 represent linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chains whose number of atoms varies from 10 to 50, which may contain a heteroatom such as O, N or P and whose melting point temperature varies from 25 to 120 ° C. ii) di- (trimethylol-l, l, l, l, l propane tetrastearate, sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company Heterene. iii) diester waxes of a dicarboxylic acid of general formula R3 - (- 000-R4-COO-R5), in which R3 and R5 are identical or different, preferably identical and represent a C4-C30 alkyl group (group alkyl comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms) and R4 represents a C4-C30 aliphatic group (linear or branched alkyl group comprising 4 to 30 carbon atoms) which may or may not contain one or more unsaturations, and preferably linear and unsaturated. iv) We may also mention the waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched, C8-c32 fatty chains, for example such as hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, and the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol. v) Beeswax, synthetic beeswax, polyglycerolated beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, oxypropylene lanolin wax, rice bran wax, Ouricury wax , Alfa wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax, sumac wax, montan wax, orange wax, laurel wax, wax Hydrogenated Jojoba, lemon wax, olive wax and berry wax. According to another embodiment, the polar wax may be an alcohol wax. By "alcohol wax" is meant according to the invention a wax comprising at least one alcohol function, that is to say comprising at least one free hydroxyl (OH) group. As alcohol wax, mention may be made, for example, of the wax C30-50 Alcohols Performacol® 550 Alcohol marketed by New Phase Technologie, stearyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol. It is also possible to use silicone waxes, which may advantageously be substituted polysiloxanes, preferably at a low melting point. By "silicone wax" is meant an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular comprising Si-O groups.

Among the commercial silicone waxes of this type, mention may be made in particular of those sold under the names Abilwax 9800, 9801 or 9810 (Goldschmidt), KF910 and KF7002 (Shin Etsu), or 176-1118-3 and 176-11481 (General Electric ). The silicone waxes that may be used may also be alkyls or alkoxydimethicones, as well as (C 20 -C 60) alkyl dimethicones, in particular (C 30 -C 45) alkyl dimethicones, such as the silicone wax sold under the name SF-1642 by the company GE-Bayer Silicones. or C30-45 Alkyldimethylsilyl Polypropylsilsesquioxane under the name SW-8005® C30 Resin Wax sold by the company Dow Corning. In the context of the present invention, there may be mentioned as a particularly advantageous wax beeswax, for example that marketed under the name White Beeswax SP-453P by the company Strahl & Pitsch or a paraffin wax. According to a particular variant, a composition of the invention may also comprise at least one wax in a micronized form, called "microcreen" and advantageously carnauba and / or mixtures thereof.

The term "micronized wax" or "microwax" means a wax which is in a powder form and whose particle size is between 0.5 and 50 microns, preferably between 1 and 30 microns, or even between 3 and 25 microns. This (these) microcircle (s) is (are) introduced (s) in the micronic state in said composition according to the invention. In particular, during the preparation of a composition in accordance with the invention, this (these) microcircle (s) undergoes (undergoes) no heating step, preferably being introduced cold, that is to say at a temperature such that the (the) microwax (s) do not undergo melting. The microwaxes that can be used in the compositions according to the invention are chosen from solid and rigid waxes at room temperature, of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the microwaves according to the invention have a melting point ranging from 60 ° C. to 160 ° C., and in particular greater than or equal to 70 ° C., in particular ranging from 80 ° C. to 150 ° C., in particular ranging from 80 ° C. ° C to 140 ° C or even 80 ° C to 105 ° C.

Note that we will ensure, in the manufacturing process, not to melt the microcircle. Advantageously, the temperature of the composition during the manufacturing process does not exceed a temperature below 30 ° C relative to the melting temperature of the microwax. Advantageously, the heating temperature of the heating means is less than or equal to 5 ° C relative to the melting temperature of the (the) microwax (s), preferably strictly below 5 ° C with respect to the melting temperature of the (the) microwax (s). According to a preferred embodiment, the micronized waxes considered according to the invention have a number-average molecular mass of between 300 and 10,000 g / mol, and preferably between 400 and 3,000 g / mol. As microwaxes that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of: - Carnauba microwaxes, such as that marketed under the name "MicroCare 350®" by the company Micro Powders, - synthetic wax microwaxes, such as that marketed under the name "MicroEase 114S" by MICRO POWDERS, - micro-waxes consisting of a mixture of Carnauba wax and polyethylene wax such as those sold under the names "MicroCare 300®" and " 310e "by the company MICRO POWDERS, - microwaxes consisting of a mixture of Carnauba wax and synthetic wax, such as that marketed under the name" MicroCare 325 "by the company MICRO POWDERS, - polyethylene microwaxes such as those marketed under the names "MicroPoly 200®", "220®", "220L®" and "250S®" by the company MICRO POWDERS, and those marketed under the name "CERAPURE 10 H5-C" by the company SHAMROCK, and - polypropylene microwaxes, such as that sold under the name "MATTEWAX" by the company MICRO POWDERS. Carnauba microwaves and particularly those marketed by MICROPOWDERS under the names Microcare are particularly suitable for the invention. Preferably, a composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least one Carnauba microcircle, for example that marketed under the name "MicroCare 350®" by the company MICRO POWDERS. A composition according to the invention may in particular comprise a content of microcircle between 0.1% and 15% by weight, in particular between 2% and 12% by weight, more particularly between 5% and 10% by weight, relative to to the total weight of the composition. In the compositions according to the invention, the sunflower wax is present in a form associated with at least one volatile organic solvent, in particular at least one volatile hydrocarbon solvent. Volatile hydrocarbon oil also known as volatile hydrocarbon solvent By "oil" is meant a fatty substance that is liquid at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure.

Within the meaning of the invention, a volatile oil has, at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), a vapor pressure ranging from 0.02 mm to 300 mmHg (2.66 Pa). at 40,000 Pa) and better from 0.1 to 90 mm Hg (from 13 Pa to 12,000 Pa). The nonvolatile oils then correspond to a vapor pressure of less than 0.02 mmHg (2.66 Pa), and more preferably less than 101 mmHg (0.13 Pa). By "hydrocarbon oil" is meant an oil formed essentially, or even constituted, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly of oxygen, nitrogen, and not containing a silicon atom or fluorine. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups.

The volatile hydrocarbon oils (also called solvents) may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially C8-C16 branched alkanes such as C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffins). such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopar or permetyls, branched C8-C16 esters , isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the volatile hydrocarbon oil is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof, in particular from isododecane, isodecane and isohexadecane, and is especially isododecane.

It is also possible to mention volatile linear alkanes comprising from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular from 10 to 15 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 11 to 13 carbon atoms, for example such as n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97, as well as their mixtures, the undecane-tridecane mixture, the mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane ( C13) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of WO 2008/155059 from Cognis, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the volatile hydrocarbon solvent is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof. Advantageously, it is at least isododecane.

Advantageously, the volatile hydrocarbon solvent considered according to the invention is a mixture of isododecane and isohexadecane.

Preferably, this mixture is formed in an isododecane / isohexadecane weight ratio ranging from 0.2 to 2, more preferably from 0.3 to 1.5. Advantageously, a composition according to the invention comprises from 10% to 60% by weight, and in particular from 15% to 40% by weight, of hydrocarbon solvent (s) volatile (s) relative to the total weight of the composition. Of course, this solvent or mixture of volatile hydrocarbon solvents may be combined with other nonvolatile hydrocarbon solvents and / or volatile and nonvolatile silicone solvents as defined below. According to an alternative embodiment, a composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one volatile silicone oil. Volatile silicone oil also known as volatile silicone solvent By "silicone oil" is meant an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular comprising Si-O groups.

The volatile silicone oil that may be used in the invention may be chosen from silicone oils having a flash point ranging from 40 ° C. to 150 ° C., preferably having a flash point greater than 55 ° C. and less than or equal to 105 ° C. and preferably ranging from 65 ° C to 95 ° C. The flash point is in particular measured according to the ISO 3679 standard. The volatile silicone oil may be chosen from linear or cyclic silicone oils such as linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) having from 3 to 7 silicon atoms. Volatile silicone oils that may be mentioned include linear silicone volatile oils such as hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, tetradecamethylhexasiloxane, hexadecamethylheptasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane. Cyclic silicone volatile oils that may be mentioned include hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane. Advantageously, it is cyclohexadimethylsiloxane (D6).

Advantageously, a composition according to the invention comprises from 0.1% to 25% by weight, preferably from 5% to 20% by weight, and in particular from 8% to 18% by weight of silicone solvent (s) (s). ) volatile (s) in relation to its total weight.

According to a preferred variant, a composition according to the invention comprises a weight ratio of volatile hydrocarbon solvent (s) volatile (s) / solvent (s) silicone (s) volatile (s) greater than 0.5, in particular greater or equal to 1, for example between 1 and 5, better between 1.2 and 3.5. This weight ratio can in particular be greater than 3.

Advantageously, a composition according to the invention comprises a total content of volatile hydrocarbon and silicone oils greater than 10% by weight and preferably ranging from 15% to 60% by weight, especially from 20% to 55% by weight, preferably from 25% to 50% by weight, more preferably 30% to 45% by weight, based on its total weight. A composition according to the invention may also advantageously comprise at least one polymer chosen from polymers (A) derived from the (co) polymerization of at least one at least one C4 alkene monomer, liposoluble film-forming polymers (B) and polymers semi-crystalline (C).

Liposoluble Film-forming Polymer A liposoluble film-forming polymer (B) is a polymer soluble in an oily phase comprising oils or organic solvents. For the purposes of the invention, the term "film-forming polymer" means a polymer capable of forming, by itself or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a macroscopically continuous deposition, and preferably a cohesive deposit, and better still a deposit whose cohesion and mechanical properties are such that said deposit can be isolatable and manipulable in isolation, for example when said deposit is made by casting on a non-stick surface such as a Teflon or silicone surface.

Advantageously, this liposoluble film-forming polymer is a vinyl ester copolymer. Vinyl ester copolymers (the vinyl group being directly connected to the oxygen atom of the ester group and the vinyl ester having a saturated hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, from 1 to 19) are thus particularly suitable for the invention. carbon atoms, linked to the carbonyl ester group) and at least one other monomer which may be a vinyl ester (different from the vinyl ester already present), an α-olefin (having from 8 to 28 carbon atoms) an alkyl vinyl ether (in which the alkyl group contains from 2 to 18 carbon atoms), or an allylic or methallyl ester (having a saturated hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, from 1 to 19 carbon atoms, linked to the carbonyl of the ester group); .

These copolymers may be crosslinked using crosslinking agents which may be of the vinyl type, or of the allyl or methallyl type, such as tetraallyloxyethane, divinylbenzene, divinyl octanedioate, divinyl dodecanedioate, and octadecanedioate. divinyl. Examples of such copolymers include vinyl acetate / allyl stearate copolymers, vinyl acetate / vinyl laurate, vinyl acetate / vinyl stearate, vinyl acetate / octadecene, vinyl acetate / octadecylvinyl ether, vinyl propionate / allyl laurate, vinyl propionate / vinyl laurate, vinyl stearate / octadecene-1, vinyl acetate / dodecene-1, vinyl e / ethylvinyl ether stearate, vinyl propionate / cetyl vinyl ether, stearate vinyl acetate / allyl acetate, 2,2-dimethyl-2-vinyl octanoate / vinyl laurate, 2,2-dimethyl-2,2-allyl pentanoate / vinyl laurate, dimethyl vinyl propionate / vinyl stearate, allyl dimethyl propionate / vinyl stearate, vinyl propionate / vinyl stearate, crosslinked with 0.2% divinyl benzene, vinyl dimethyl propionate / vinyl laurate, crosslinked with 0.2% divinyl benzene, vinyl acetate / octadecyl vinyl ether, crosslinked with 0.2% tetraally loxyethane, vinyl acetate / allyl stearate, cross-linked with 0.2% divinyl benzene, vinyl acetate / octadecene-1 cross-linked with 0.2% divinyl benzene and allyl propionate / allyl stearate crosslinked with 0 2% divinyl benzene. As copolymers, it is more particularly considered those resulting from copolymerization of vinyl esters having from 9 to 22 carbon atoms or of alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, the alkyl radicals having from 10 to 20 carbon atoms. Such copolymers may be chosen in particular from copolymers of vinyl polycrystearate, vinyl polystearate crosslinked with divinylbenzene, diallyl ether or diallyl phthalate, copolymers of stearyl poly (meth) acrylate, vinyl polylaurate , poly (meth) acrylate lauryl, these poly (meth) acrylates can be crosslinked using dimethacrylate ethylene glycol or tetraethylene glycol.

These copolymers may have a weight average molecular weight ranging from 2,000 to 500,000 and preferably from 4,000 to 200,000. The vinyl ester copolymer may advantageously be chosen from the vinyl acetate / allyl stearate copolymer (sold in particular under the name Mexomère 5 PQ by Chimex)) and vinyl polylaurate (sold in particular under the name Mexomère PP by Chimex), and mixtures thereof. Advantageously, a composition according to the invention comprises from 1% to 20% by weight, and in particular from 2% to 10% by weight, for example from 2.5% to 5% by weight of liposoluble film-forming polymer relative to its composition. total weight. Semi-crystalline polymer (POSC) The cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise at least one semi-crystalline polymer (C). Preferably, the semi-crystalline polymer has an organic structure, and a melting temperature greater than or equal to 30 ° C. For the purposes of the invention, the term "semi-crystalline polymer" is intended to mean polymers comprising a crystallizable part and an amorphous part and having a first-order reversible phase change temperature, in particular melting (solid-liquid transition). . The crystallizable portion is either a side chain (or pendant chain) or a sequence in the backbone. When the crystallizable portion of the semi-crystalline polymer is a sequence of the polymer backbone, this crystallizable block is of a different chemical nature from that of the amorphous sequences; in this case, the semicrystalline polymer is a block copolymer, for example of the diblock, triblock or multiblock type. When the crystallizable portion is a chain pendant to the backbone, the semi-crystalline polymer may be a homopolymer or a copolymer. The melting temperature of the semi-crystalline polymer is preferably less than 120 ° C. The melting temperature of the semi-crystalline polymer is preferably greater than or equal to 40 ° C and less than 85 ° C. The semi-crystalline polymer (s) according to the invention are solids at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), whose melting temperature is greater than or equal to 30 ° C. The melting point values correspond to the melting point measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), such as the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by the Mettler company, with a temperature rise of 5 °. C or 10 ° C per minute. The melting point considered is the point corresponding to the temperature of the most endothermic peak of the thermogram. Apart from crystallizable chains or blocks, the sequences of the polymers are amorphous. By "chain or crystallizable block" is meant, in the sense of the invention, a chain or sequence which, if it were alone, would pass from the amorphous state to the crystalline state, reversibly, depending on whether it is above or below below the melting temperature. A chain within the meaning of the invention is a group of atoms, during or lateral to the backbone of the polymer. A sequence is a group of atoms belonging to the backbone, a group constituting one of the repeating units of the polymer. The crystallizable sequences or chains of the semi-crystalline polymers may represent at least 30% of the total weight of each polymer and better still at least 40%. Crystallizable side-chain semi-crystalline polymers are homo- or copolymers. The semicrystalline polymers of the invention with crystallizable sequences are copolymers, sequential or multisequenced. They can be obtained by reactive (or ethylenic) double bond monomer polymerization or by polycondensation. When the polymers of the invention are crystallizable side chain polymers, the latter are advantageously in random or statistical form. The semi-crystalline polymers of the invention may be of synthetic origin. In particular, the semi-crystalline polymer may be chosen from: homopolymers and copolymers comprising units resulting from the polymerization of one or more monomers bearing crystallizable lateral chain (s) hydrophobic (s), polymers carrying at least one crystallizable block in the backbone; polyester, aliphatic or aromatic or aliphatic / aromatic polycondensates; metallocene catalyzed ethylene and propylene copolymers; and acrylate / silicone copolymers. The semicrystalline polymers that may be used in the invention may be chosen in particular from: - block copolymers of polyolefins with controlled crystallization, the monomers of which are described in EP 0 951 897, - polycondensates, and in particular of the polyester, aliphatic or aromatic type or aliphatic / aromatic, copolymers of ethylene and propylene prepared by metallocene catalysis, homopolymers or copolymers carrying at least one crystallizable side chain and homo- or co-polymers carrying in the skeleton at least one sequence crystallizable, such as those described in US 5,156,911, such as (Cio-C30) alkyl polyacrylates corresponding to Intelimer® from Landec described in the brochure "Intelimere polymers", Landec IP22 (Rev. 4-97) and for example the product Intelimer® IPA 13-6 from Landec, which is a stearyl polyacrylate with a molecular weight of about 145,000 and whose temper ature of fusion is equal to 49 ° C, homopolymers or copolymers bearing at least one crystallizable side chain, in particular with fluorinated group (s), as described in document WO 01/19333, acrylate / silicone copolymers, such as copolymers of acrylic acid and polydimethylsiloxane grafted stearyl acrylate, polydimethylsiloxane grafted stearyl methacrylate copolymers, polydimethylsiloxane grafted stearyl methacrylate and acrylic acid copolymers, copolymers of methyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, ethyl-2-hexyl acrylate and stearyl methacrylate with polydimethylsiloxane grafts. Mention may in particular be made of the copolymers sold by the company SHIN-ETSU under the names KP-561 (CTFA name: acrylates / dimethicone), KP-541 (CTFA name: acrylates / dimethicone and isopropyl alcohol), KP-545 (CTFA name acrylates / dimethicone and Cyclopentasiloxane), and mixtures thereof.

In the context of the present invention, poly (C 10 -C 30) alkyl acrylates, for example the one marketed under the name Intelimer IPA 13-1 NG by the company Air Products and Chemical, may be mentioned as particularly advantageous semicrystalline polymers. Advantageously, a composition according to the invention comprises from 1% to 10% by weight and in particular from 2% to 5% by weight of semi-crystalline polymer (s) relative to its total weight. According to an alternative embodiment, a composition according to the invention may comprise a mixture of polymer (B) and (C). Polymer (A) A polymer (A) according to the invention advantageously has a molecular weight Mw greater than or equal to 750 g / mol, advantageously between 800 and 10,000 g / mol, more preferably between 900 and 5,000 g / mol mol. A polymer (A) is preferably derived from the (co) polymerization of at least one C4-C12, preferably C4, C10 or C12, preferably C4, linear and / or branched alkene monomer. Preferably, the polymer (A) according to the invention is at least partly, preferably totally, hydrogenated. A polymer (A) according to the invention advantageously has at least 10 monomers, preferably between 12 and 50 monomers, more preferably between 15 and 40 monomers. Preferably, said polymer (A) comprises at least one monomer chosen from the 4 isomers of butene structure, namely but-1-ene, (Z) -but-2-ene, (E) -but- 2e, 2-methylprop-1-ene (or isobutene), and mixtures thereof. The term poly (iso) butene covers polymers derived from at least one of these monomers in the remainder of this description. Preferably, said polymer (A) comprises at least one monomer of 2-methylprop-1-ene. According to a particular embodiment, said polymer (A) is derived from the copolymerization of at least two of these 4 isomers. Preferably one of these two isomers is 2-methylprop-1-ene. According to a particular embodiment, said resulting polymer (A) comprises a mixture of polybut-1-ene monomer and 2-methylprop-1-ene.

According to another embodiment, said polymer is a homopolymer of polybut-1-ene. Preferably, said polymer (A) is selected from poly (iso) butene, polydecene, polydodecene, and mixtures thereof, optionally at least partially hydrogenated, and preferably is poly (iso) butene. The polymer (A) according to the invention advantageously has at 100 ° C a kinematic viscosity of greater than 1000 centistokes, preferably between 2000 and 8000 centistokes, more preferably between 2500 and 5000 centistokes.

The polymer (A) according to the invention has at 25 ° C. a static viscosity greater than or equal to 20,000 mPa.s, preferably greater than or equal to 65,000 mPa.s, preferably greater than or equal to 350,000 mPa.s. for example, inclusive of between 25,000 and 800,000 mPa.s, more preferably between 400,000 and 600,000 mPa.s. Such a viscosity can be measured using an R575 rheometer marketed by HAAKE provided with a plate or cone with a diameter of 60 mm inclined by 2 °. The polymer (A) used in the context of the present invention may for example be chosen from Indopol H-100, Indopol H-300, Indopol H-1500 from Amoco, Parléam V, Parléam. HV and Parléam SV of NOF Corporation. Preferentially, the Indopol H-1500 or the Parléam SV will be used.

The total content of polymer (s) (A) according to the invention is between 2% and 20% by weight, in particular between 5% and 15% by weight, for example between 8% and 12% by weight, relative to to the total weight of the composition. Non-volatile oil According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one non-volatile oil. "Non-volatile oil" means an oil remaining on the skin or keratin fiber at room temperature and pressure. More specifically, a non-volatile oil has an evaporation rate strictly less than 0.01 mg / cm 2 / min.

To measure this evaporation rate is introduced into a crystallizer, with a diameter of 7 cm, placed on a scale located in a large enclosure of about 0.3 m3 temperature-controlled, at a temperature of 25 ° C., and in hygrometry at a relative humidity of 50%, 15 g of oil or oil mixture to be tested. The liquid is allowed to evaporate freely, without stirring, providing ventilation by a fan (PAPSTMOTOREN, reference 8550 N, rotating at 2700 revolutions per minute) arranged in a vertical position above the crystallizer containing said oil or said mixing, the blades being directed to the crystallizer and at a distance of 20 cm from the bottom of the crystallizer. The mass of oil remaining in the crystallizer is measured at regular intervals. The evaporation rates are expressed in mg of evaporated oil per unit area (cm2) and per unit of time (minute).

The non-volatile hydrocarbon oils that are suitable for the present invention may in particular be chosen from: hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as triglycerides consisting of esters of fatty acids and of glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths various C4 to C28, the latter being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils include wheat germ, sunflower, grape seed, sesame, maize, apricot, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soya, sweet almond, rapeseed, cotton, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, palm, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, sesame, pumpkin, rapeseed, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, bancoulier, passiflora, muscat rose; or the triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids, such as those sold by the company Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810e, 812® and 818® by the company Sasol; synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms; - linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin other than the polymers according to the invention, such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, squalane, and mixtures thereof; synthetic esters such as oils of formula R1COOR2 in which R1 represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a particularly branched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms at provided that R1 + R2 is> 10, such as, for example, purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate, hexyl laurate diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearate isostearate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxyl esters such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters; at room temperature liquids with a branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyl dodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol or 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol; higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and mixtures thereof. The non-volatile silicone oils that are suitable for the present invention may in particular be chosen from: non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, during and / or at the end of the silicone chain, groups each having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenyl siloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl tri siloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates.

The total content of non-volatile oil (s), preferably hydrocarbon-based, in the composition according to the invention ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.1% to 8% by weight. and preferably from 0.25% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises less than 5% by weight of non-volatile oil (s) relative to the total weight of the composition. Pasty fatty substance According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one pasty fatty substance; For the purposes of the present invention, the term "pasty fatty substance" is intended to mean a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid / liquid state change and comprising, at a temperature of 23 ° C., a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. In other words, the starting melting temperature of the pasty compound may be less than 23 ° C. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 23 ° C. may represent from 9% to 97% by weight of the compound. This liquid fraction at 23 ° C is preferably between 15% and 85%, more preferably between 40% and 85% by weight. Preferably, the pasty fatty substances have an end-of-melting temperature of less than 60 ° C.

Preferably, the pasty fatty substances have a hardness less than or equal to 6 MPa. Preferably, the pasty fatty substances have in the solid state a crystalline organization, visible by X-ray diffraction characterizations.

For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of a paste or a wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "DSC Q2000" by the company TA Instruments .

For measuring the melting temperature and determining the end-of-melting temperature, the sample preparation and measurement protocols are as follows. A 5 mg sample of pasty fatty substance preheated to 80 ° C. and taken with magnetic stirring using an equally heated spatula is placed in an airtight aluminum capsule, or crucible. Two tests are carried out to ensure the reproducibility of the results. The measurements are carried out on the calorimeter aroused. The oven is subjected to a nitrogen sweep. Cooling is ensured by the RCS 90 heat exchanger.

The sample is then subjected to the following protocol by being first brought to a temperature of 20 ° C. and then subjected to a first temperature rise ranging from 20 ° C. to 80 ° C., at the heating rate of 5 ° C. / minute, then cooled from 80 ° C to -80 ° C at a cooling rate of 5 ° C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from -80 ° C to 80 ° C at a heating rate 5 ° C / minute. During the second temperature rise, the variation of the power difference absorbed by the empty crucible and the crucible containing the pasty or wax sample is measured as a function of temperature. The melting point of the compound is the value of the temperature corresponding to the peak apex of the curve representing the variation of the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature. The end of melting temperature corresponds to the temperature at which 95% of the sample melted.

The liquid fraction by weight of the pasty compound at 23 ° C. is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23 ° C. to the heat of fusion of the pasty compound. The heat of fusion of the pasty compound is the enthalpy consumed by the compound to pass from the solid state to the liquid state. The pasty compound is said to be in the solid state when the entirety of its mass is in crystalline solid form. The pasty compound is said to be in a liquid state when all of its mass is in liquid form. The melting enthalpy of the pasty compound is equal to the integral of the whole of the melting curve obtained with the aid of the calorimeter evoked, with a rise in temperature of 5 ° C. or 10 ° C. per minute, according to the ISO 11357-3: 1999. The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is the amount of energy required to pass the compound from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J / g. The heat of fusion consumed at 23 ° C is the amount of energy absorbed by the sample to change from the solid state to the state that it has at 23 ° C consisting of a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32 ° C preferably represents from 30% to 100% by weight of the compound, preferably from 50% to 100%, more preferably from 60% to 100% by weight of the compound. When the liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32 ° C. is equal to 100%, the temperature of the end of the melting range of the pasty compound is less than or equal to 32 ° C. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32 ° C. is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32 ° C. to the heat of fusion of the pasty compound. The enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32 ° C. is calculated in the same way as the heat of fusion consumed at 23 ° C.

For the measurement of hardness, sample preparation and measurement protocols are as follows. The pasty fat is placed in a mold 75 mm in diameter which is filled to about 75% of its height. In order to overcome the thermal past and control the crystallization, the mold is placed in the Vôtsch VC0018 programmable oven where it is first heated to 80 ° C for 60 minutes, then cooled from 80 ° C to 0 ° C at a cooling rate of 5 ° C / minute, then left at the stabilized temperature of 0 ° C for 60 minutes, then subjected to a temperature rise from 0 ° C to 20 ° C, at a rate of heat of 5 ° C / minute, then left at the stabilized temperature of 20 ° C for 180 minutes. The compression force measurement is performed with the Swantech TA / TX2i texurometer. The mobile used is chosen according to the texture: - mobile cylindrical steel 2 mm in diameter for very rigid raw materials; - Cylindrical 12 mm diameter steel mobile for inferior raw materials; The measurement comprises 3 steps: a first step after automatic detection of the surface of the sample where the mobile moves at a measuring speed of 0.1 mm / s, and penetrates into the pasty fatty substance at a depth of penetration of 0.3 mm, the software records the value of the maximum force reached; a second so-called relaxation stage where the mobile stays at this position for one second and where the force is noted after 1 second of relaxation; finally a third so-called withdrawal step where the mobile returns to its initial position at the speed of 1 mm / s and the energy of withdrawal of the probe (negative force) is recorded. The value of the hardness measured in the first step corresponds to the maximum compression force measured in Newton divided by the area of the cylinder of the texturometer expressed in mm 2 in contact with the pasty fatty substance. The value of hardness obtained is expressed in mega-pascals or MPa. The pasty fatty substance is preferably chosen from synthetic compounds and compounds of plant origin. A pasty compound can be obtained synthetically from starting materials of plant origin. The pasty compound is advantageously chosen from: lanolin and its derivatives, petrolatum, in particular that whose INCI name is petrolatum and sold under the name ULTIMA WHITE PET USP by Perenco, polyol ethers chosen from ethers of pentaerythritol and polyalkylene glycol, fatty alcohol and sugar ethers, and mixtures thereof. pentaerythritol ether and polyethylene glycol comprising 5 oxyethylenated units (50E) (CTFA name: PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether), pentaerythritol ether and polypropylene glycol comprising 5 oxypropylene units (5 PO) (CTFA name: PPG- 5 Pentaerythrityl Ether), and mixtures thereof, and more particularly the PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether mixture, PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether and soybean oil, sold under the name "Lanolide" by the company Vevy, a mixture in which the constituents are in a ratio by weight 46/46/8: 46% of PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether, 46% of PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether and 8% of soybean oil, - polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds, - polymeric or non-polymeric fluorinated compounds, vinyl polymers, in particular: homopolymers and copolymers of olefins, homopolymers and copolymers of hydrogenated dienes, linear or branched oligomers, homo or copolymers of alkyl (meth) acrylates, preferably a C 8 -C 30 alkyl group; homo and copolymer oligomers of vinyl esters having C 8 -C 30 alkyl groups; homo- and copolymer oligomers of vinyl ethers having C 8 -C 30 alkyl groups; the fat-soluble polyethers resulting therefrom; polyetherification between one or more C 2 -C 100 diols, preferably C 2 -C 50 diols, and / or mixtures thereof. The pasty compound is preferably a polymer, in particular a hydrocarbon polymer.

Among the liposoluble polyethers, copolymers of ethylene oxide and / or of propylene oxide with long-chain C 6 -C 30 alkylene oxides are preferred, more preferably such as the weight ratio of ethylene oxide. and / or propylene oxide with alkylene oxides in the copolymer is from 5:95 to 70:30. In this family, mention will in particular be made of copolymers such as long-chain alkylene oxides are arranged in blocks having an average molecular weight of 1,000 to 10,000, for example a polyoxyethylene / polydodecyl glycol block copolymer such as dodecanediol ethers. (22 mol) and polyethylene glycol (45 0E) marketed under the trademark ELFACOS ST9 by Akzo Nobel. Among the esters, the following are particularly preferred: esters of an oligomeric glycerol, in particular the esters of diglycerol, in particular the condensates of adipic acid and of glycerol, for which part of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with a mixture of fatty acids such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid and isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, preferably such as bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2 sold under the trademark Softisan 649 by Sasol, - arachidyl propionate sold under the trade name Waxenol 801 by Alzo, - phytosterol esters, - triglycerides of fatty acids and their derivatives, such as, for example, triglycerides of fatty acids, in particular of C10 - C18, partially or fully hydrogenated such as those sold under the reference Softisan 100 by Sasol, - pentaerythritol esters, and mixtures thereof. The esters of diol dimer and diacid dimer, if appropriate, esterified on their (their) function (s) alcohol (s) or acid (s) free (s) by acidic radicals or alcohols, especially dimer dilinoleate esters, such esters may be chosen in particular from the following INCI nomenclature esters: bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl dimerdilinoleyl dimerdilinoleate (Plandool G), phytosteryl / isosteryl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl dimerdilinoleate (Plandool H or Plandool S), and their mixtures, mango butter, such as that marketed under the reference Lipex 203 by the company Aharushkarlshamn, shea butter, in particular the one whose INCI name is Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, such as that marketed under the reference Sheasofte by the company AARHUSKARL SHAMN, and mixtures thereof.

Among the pasty compounds, bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl dimeric dilinoleyl, bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2, dimerized hydrogenated castor oil dilinoleate, for example RISOCAST-DA-L sold by KOKYU ALCOHOL KOGYO, will preferably be chosen. hydrogenated castor oil isostearate, for example SALACOS HCIS (VL) sold by NISSHIN OIL, mango butter, shea butter, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone / eicosene, or their mixture (s). A composition according to the invention is preferably free of pasty fatty substances. However, a composition according to the invention may comprise one or more pasty fatty substances with a total content greater than or equal to 0.01% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, for example between 0.1% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Lipophilic gelling agent A composition according to the invention may advantageously comprise at least one lipophilic gelling agent.

The gelling agent (s) that may be used may be organic or inorganic, polymeric or molecular lipophilic gelling agents. As mineral lipophilic gelling agents, mention may be made of clays and fumed silica optionally treated with a hydrophobic surface, the particle size of which is less than 1 μm.

Polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agents are for example: partially or totally crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxanes, of three-dimensional structure, such as those sold under the names KSG60, KSG160 and KSG180 by the company SHIN-ETSU, by Trefil E-505C® and Trefil E-506C® by DOW-CORNING, Gransil SR-CYCO, SR DMI100, SR-DC5560, SR 5CYC gel®, SR DMI 10 gel® and SR DC 556 gel® by GRANT INDUSTRIES, SF 1204 ® and JK 113® by the company GENERAL ELECTRIC; ethylcellulose, such as that sold under the name Ethoce10 by the company DOW CHEMICAL; polycondensates of polyamide type resulting from the condensation between (a) at least one acid selected from dicarboxylic acids comprising at least 32 carbon atoms such as dimeric fatty acids and (13) an alkylene diamine and in particular ethylene diamine wherein the polyamide polymer comprises at least one terminal carboxylic acid group esterified or amidated with at least one monohydric alcohol or a monoamine comprising from 12 to 30 linear and saturated carbon atoms, and in particular, ethylene diamine copolymers / stearyl dilinoleate, such as that sold under the name Uniclear 100 VGO by the company ARIZONA CHEMICAL; silicone polyamides of the polyorganosiloxane type such as those described in documents US-A-5,874,069, US-A-5,919,441, US-A-6,051,216 and US-A-5,981,680, for instance those sold under the reference Dow Corning 2 -8179 and Dow Corning 2-8178 Gellant by the company Dow Corning; galactomannans containing from one to six, and in particular from two to four, hydroxyl groups per sac, substituted by a saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain, such as guar gum alkylated with C1-C6 alkyl chains, and in particular with C1 to C3 and mixtures thereof; block copolymers of the "diblock", "triblock" or "radial" type of the polystyrene / polyisoprene, polystyrene / polybutadiene type, such as those sold under the name Luvitol HSBe by the company BASF, of the polystyrene / copoly (ethylenepropylene) type, such as those marketed under the name Kratone by the company Shell Chemical Co. or alternatively from the polystyrene / copoly (ethylene-butylene) type, mixtures of triblock and radial (star) copolymers in isododecane, such as those marketed by the company PENRECO under the name Versagele such as, for example, the mixture of butylene / ethylene / styrene triblock copolymer and ethylene / propylene / styrene star copolymer in isododecane (Versagel M 5960). According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one dyestuff chosen from one or more pulverulent material (s), preferably metal oxides, and in particular iron oxides.

Dyestuffs The compositions in accordance with the invention may comprise at least one dyestuff. This (or these) dyestuff (s) is (or are) preferably chosen from pulverulent materials, fat-soluble dyes, water-soluble dyes, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one pulverulent dyestuff. The pulverulent dyestuffs may be chosen from pigments and nacres, preferably from pigments.

The pigments may be white or colored, mineral and / or organic, coated or uncoated. Mention may be made, among mineral pigments, of metal oxides, in particular titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, oxides of zirconium, zinc or cerium, and also oxides of iron, titanium or chromium, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue. Among the organic pigments, mention may be made of carbon black, D & C type pigments, and lacquers based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum. The nacres may be chosen from white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with ferric blue, or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. Liposoluble dyes are for example Sudan Red, D & C Red 17, D & C Green 6, 13-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, D & C Yellow 11, D & C Violet 2, D & C Orange 5, the yellow quinoline, the annatto.

Preferably, the pigments contained in the compositions according to the invention are chosen from metal oxides. These dyestuffs may be present in a content ranging from 0.01% to% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 3% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the coloring material (s) is (are) chosen from one or more metal oxide (s) present at a content greater than or equal to 2% by weight relative to to the total weight of the composition, advantageously between 3% and 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Charges The compositions in accordance with the invention may also comprise at least one additional charge that is distinct from the microwaxes. The fillers may be selected from those well known to those skilled in the art and commonly used in cosmetic compositions. The fillers can be mineral or organic, lamellar or spherical.

Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, polyamide powders such as Nylon® sold under the name Orgasole by Atochem, poly-13-alanine and polyethylene, and tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders such as Teflon®, lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride, expanded polymeric hollow microspheres such as polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile such as those sold under the name Expancele by Nobel Industrie, powders acrylics such as those sold under the name Polytrape by Dow Corning, polymethyl methacrylate particles and silicone resin microspheres (Toshiba Tospearlse, for example), precipitated calcium carbonate, carbonate and hydrochloric acid. magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres (Silica Beadse from MAPRECOS), glass or ceramic microcapsules that metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, and in particular from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate.

It can also be hectorite modified in particular. It is also possible to use a compound capable of swelling with heat and in particular thermally expandable particles such as unexpanded microspheres of copolymer of vinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile / methyl methacrylate or copolymer of acrylonitrile homopolymer, for example those sold respectively under the references Expancele 820 DU 40 and Expancele007WU by the company AKZO NOBEL.

The distinct charges of the microlayer (s) required according to the invention may represent from 0.1% to 15%, in particular from 3% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Fibers The compositions in accordance with the invention may also comprise at least one fiber which makes it possible to improve the lengthening effect. By "fiber" it is necessary to understand an object of length L and of diameter D such that L is much greater than D, D being the diameter of the circle in which the section of the fiber is inscribed. In particular, the L / D ratio (or form factor) is chosen in the range from 3.5 to 2500, in particular from 5 to 500, and more particularly from 5 to 150. The fibers that can be used in the composition of the invention may be fibers of synthetic or natural origin, mineral or organic. They can be short or long, unitary or organized, for example braided, hollow or full. Their shape can be any and in particular of circular or polygonal section (square, hexagonal or octagonal) depending on the specific application envisaged. In particular, their ends are blunt and / or polished to avoid injury. In particular, the fibers have a length ranging from 1 μm to 10 mm, in particular from 0.1 mm to 5 mm and more particularly from 0.3 mm to 3.5 mm. Their section may be in a circle with a diameter ranging from 2 nm to 500 μm, in particular ranging from 100 nm to 100 μm and more particularly from 1 μm to 50 μm. The weight or titer of the fibers is often given in denier or decitex and represents the weight in gram for 9 km of wire. The fibers according to the invention may in particular have a title chosen in the range from 0.15 to 30 denier and in particular from 0.18 to 18 denier.

The fibers that can be used in the composition of the invention may be chosen from rigid or non-rigid fibers, they may be of synthetic or natural origin, mineral or organic. Furthermore, the fibers may or may not be treated on the surface, coated or uncoated, colored or unstained.

As fibers that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of non-rigid fibers such as polyamide (Nylon®) fibers or rigid fibers such as polyimide-amide fibers, such as those sold under the names KERIVIEL® KERMEL TECH® by RHODIA or poly- (p-phenyleneterephthalamide) (or aramid) sold especially under the name Kevlar® by the company DUPONT DE NEMOURS. The fibers may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 0.1% to 5% by weight, and more particularly from 0.3% to 3% by weight. Cosmetic additives The compositions in accordance with the invention may also comprise at least one cosmetic additive. As cosmetic additives that can be used in the compositions in accordance with the invention, mention may be made especially of antioxidants, preservatives, perfumes, neutralizers, emollients, thickeners, coalescing agents, plasticizers, moisturizers, vitamins , and their mixtures.

Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional additives and / or their amount so that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially impaired by the addition envisaged. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is not rinsed.

Advantageously, the composition is a makeup composition and in particular a mascara. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE APPLICATION KIT As is apparent from the foregoing, the invention is particularly intended to provide a set of packaging and application of this composition, conducive to its heating and not likely to alter appreciably, over the course of uses, its cosmetic properties. This set comprises in addition to the composition as defined above, at least: (a) an application element of this composition; and (b) heating means for bringing said composition, beforehand, simultaneously, or after its application, to a temperature conducive to its deformability. Such application elements and heating means that can be implemented with a composition of the invention are advantageously those described in application FR2996109. This set of packaging and application advantageously comprises a container or tank for housing the coating composition of the keratinous fibers.

This composition can then be taken from the container by immersing the applicator therein. This container may optionally be equipped with a wiper adapted to rid a surplus of product taken by the applicator. The applicator element or applicator advantageously comprises means for smoothing and / or separating the keratinous fibers, such as eyelashes or eyebrows, especially in the form of teeth, bristles or other reliefs. The applicator is therefore designed to apply the composition to the eyelashes or the eyebrows, and may comprise, for example, an application means such as a brush or a comb.

The applicator can still be used for makeup finishing, on a region of eyelashes or eyebrows made up or loaded with the composition. The applicator may be a brush or a comb. Preferably this applicator comprises at least one row of teeth obtained by molding.

More preferably, this applicator is a brush comprising a plurality of rows of teeth distributed along an axis of elongation of the brush, for example distributed parallel along this axis, and extending radially, inclined, some by relative to others, around a cross section of said brush. The applicator may be secured to a closure member of the container containing the composition. This closure element may form a gripping member of the applicator. This gripping member may form a cap to removably mount on said container by any suitable means such as screwing, latching, fitting or other. Such a container can thus reversibly accommodate said applicator. It should be noted that according to another embodiment the applicator can form a container for the composition. In such a case a container may for example be provided in the gripping member and an internal channel may internally connect the gripping member to the relief elements application. Finally, as stated above, the assembly according to the invention further comprises heating means.

Preferably, the heating means are capable of carrying the composition to be applied, at a temperature between 35 ° C and 100 ° C, and preferably between 40 ° C and 75 ° C. According to a first embodiment, the heating means are formed by a device distinct from the application element, said assembly then being configured in the form of a kit. Such a kit can be packaged inside a blister pack packaging. The heating means may be of the type described in patents US Pat. No. 6,009,884 or US Pat. No. 5,853,010. Other devices may also be used, such as those described in particular in US Pat. No. 6,220,252. An advantage of such a configuration is due to the fact that the makeup product can be packaged in a conventional packaging and application set, marketed: i) in combination with a heating device when it is intended to be used according to the invention; (ii) only when it is intended to be used cold.

Preferably, depending on the desired application characteristics, the user will be able to either use the product cold, or heat it to obtain a bending both more important and more durable. According to a preferred alternative, in particular illustrated in the application FR2996109, the heating means are associated with the application element. Thus, the overall dimensions and the overall cost of the device are notably reduced. In addition, this configuration offers the possibility with the same tool of both applying the product and curling eyelashes. The overall time required for makeup is substantially reduced. Such a device also has the advantage of being non-invasive for the user and easy to use, to maintain the usual gestures of makeup eyelashes.

The packaging and application assembly 1 shown in FIG. 1 comprises a container 2 containing a cosmetic product P to be applied to the eyelashes or eyebrows, for example mascara, and an applicator intended to take the product contained in the container. and apply it.

In the illustrated example, the body of the container 2 is open at its upper end to receive a nozzle 18 whose upper part constitutes the neck 4 of the container and the lower part serves as the wiper member 8. The container and / or the wiper member may be made differently, and the container may be made with a neck, for example come molded with the body, the wiper being reported in the neck.

The applicator comprises a rod 9, which is in the example described, rectilinear X-axis, provided at one end with an applicator member 5 and at a second end 10 with a closure member of the container, comprising for example a skirt 91 threaded internally, so as to be screwed on the neck 4 of the container 2. The application member comprises, in particular, a heating element 12 comprising a resistive wire 70.

According to a particular embodiment, the heating element 12 is fed by conductors 79, for example extending along the rod 9, connected to a power supply module 20, which is for example removably attached. on the closure member of the container. The ends 15 of the conductors 79 are for example provided with a connector 97 for connection to the power supply module 20. The power supply module 20 defines with the closure member of the container a gripping surface of the applicator and has a housing 25 for holding a battery or a battery. The power module may also include a manual control member of the operation of the heating element, such as a push button.

It is understood that in the context of the present invention the weight percentages given for a compound or a family of compounds, are always expressed by weight of dry matter of the compound in question.

Throughout the application, the wording "comprising a" or "comprising a" means "comprising at least one" or "comprising at least" one unless the contrary is specified. Expressions "between ... and ..." and "ranging from ..." must be understood as inclusive terms, unless otherwise specified.

In the description and examples, percentages are percentages by weight. The ingredients are mixed in the order and under the conditions readily determined by those skilled in the art. The invention is illustrated in greater detail in the examples and figures which follow and which are only presented by way of illustration of the invention.

Description of the Figures Figure la illustrates a packaging and application device 1 comprising a container 2 containing a cosmetic product P to be applied to the eyelashes or eyebrows, for example mascara, and an applicator intended to take the product contained in the container and apply it. Figure lb illustrates in isolation the application element of Figure la. Figure 2 illustrates the bending measurements (°) made using a trigonometric protractor on false-eyelash test specimens taken with a DVM RemoteControl video microscope (optical elements + Kappa video camera).

The first photo illustrates the bending measurement of false eyelash specimens in the absence of mascara. The second photo illustrates the measurement of bending false eyelashes after application of mascara. The third picture is a magnification of the second picture on which is detailed the bending characterized by an angle "a" created between the base of the specimen and the plot of the average height of the fringe.

Figure 3 illustrates the bending values measured from TO (15 minutes after applying the mascara) and then for the next 25 hours. These measurements were performed on false eyelash specimens (i) in the absence of makeup application; (ii) after application of a mascara according to the invention (Mascara 1); (iii) after application of a commercial composition Maybelline Volume Expresse wpe; and (iv) after application of an Agnès b heating brush and a Maybelline Volume Expresse wpe commercial composition. On the abscissa: Time after first measurement at TO; On the ordinate: bending value (°). Materials and Methods The protocols implemented in the examples below are detailed below.

A. Make-up and bend measurement protocol Makeup on false eyelashes specimens a) Description of false eyelashes specimens The test specimens consist of Caucasian hair mounted on an aluminum plate.

These specimens are of dimension 30 mm x 30 mm. They consist in particular of 60 strands of hair about 20 mm long that make a round trip (a node) and are distributed over 20 mm. These can especially be the B486 reference specimens sold by SP Equation. b) Protocol of the test in a single hot gesture Makeup is performed in a room where the humidity and temperature conditions are considered constant. The mascara is applied using an applicator (brush or comb) connected to a generator. The brush is put at a temperature of 65 ° C. The temperature is controlled using a thermal camera. The product is applied beforehand on the brush using a syringe. At the application temperature, the false eyelashes are made up manually from below by making 3 x 10 mascara passages spaced by 2 minutes with product recovery between each series of 10. c) Comparative test protocol 1 in a single classical gesture (without heating) / market waterproof formula Make-up is made in a room where the humidity and temperature conditions are considered constant.

The mascara is applied from its original pack: VOLUME EXPRESS Waterproof® by Maybelline. The false eyelashes are made up manually from below by making 3 x 10 passages of mascara spaced by 2 minutes with product recovery between each series of 10. d) Protocol of the test in two classic gestures: SHU UEMURA mechanical curler + makeup The makeup is performed in a room where humidity and temperature conditions are considered constant.

The mascara is applied from its original pack: VOLUME EXPRESS Waterproof® by Maybelline. At first, two manual and successive applications of the mechanical bending machine are carried out. Then, the false eyelashes are made up manually from below by realizing 3 x 10 passages of mascara spaced of 2 minutes with recovery of product between each series of 10. e) Protocol of the test in two classic gestures: heating curler Agnès B. + makeup Makeup is performed in a room where the humidity and temperature conditions are considered constant. The mascara is applied from its original pack: VOLUME EXPRESS Waterproof® by Maybelline. Firstly, ten manual and successive applications of the Curl Brush® heated curler by Agnès b. are performed on false eyelashes. The temperature of the heating curler is controlled using a thermal camera.

Then, the false eyelashes are made up manually from below by making 3 x 10 passages of mascara spaced of 2 minutes with product recovery between each series of 10.

Bending measurement a) Taking pictures The pictures are taken with a DVM RemoteControl video microscope (optical elements + Kappa video camera). Before treatment of false eyelashes, a photo is first taken of the bare test, that is to say, not made up. For this, it is held vertically using a clamp on a target. The faces above and below the test piece are then marked. The test piece is then made up as indicated above. Once the test tube is made up, a new photo is taken. The initial bending corresponds to the value TO, and is measured 15 minutes after application of the mascara.

This initial bending value is obtained by difference between the angle measured on test-tube made up with TO and that measured on the bare specimen. New photos are then taken at different times, namely: T 1h; T 3h; T 5h; T 6h; T 7h; and T 24h. b) Measurement of bending Measurements are made on the pictures taken as indicated above. The bending is characterized by a median angle "a" created or formed between the base of the specimen and the plot of the average height of the fringe. As illustrated in FIG. 2, a first point is located at the intersection of the axes of the target and a second point is also marked with regard to the average width of the tuft of eyelashes. A line is drawn between these two points and the angle thus formed between this line and the base of the target is measured. Thus, the bending value is given on the horizontal axis.

These measurements are performed manually with a trigonometric protractor, as also illustrated in Figure 2.

By convention we take the average height of fringe above the horizontal axis. B. Plavtime Measurement Protocol For each of the formulas used in the examples described below, the false eyelashes of the specimens are made up with the same gestures until the grains appear on the specimens. The number of applications carried out until the appearance of the first grains gives a measurement of the playtime of the composition tested.

Each of the tests is performed 3 times. The scale used for this measurement is as follows: Value 1: very good play-time, 30 to 40 applications without grains; Value 2: Acceptable play-time, 15 to 30 applications without grains; Value 3: Average play-time, 10 to 15 applications without grains; Value 4: Bad play-time, 5 to 10 applications without grains; Value 5: Very bad play-time, appearance of grains from the first applications.

EXAMPLES EXAMPLE 1 Compositions According to the Invention A mascara composition according to the invention was prepared as indicated below. 1 / Protocol of preparation All raw materials, with the exception of preservatives and microbeads of carnauba wax, are first introduced into the tank. The resulting mixture is heated to a temperature of 90 ° C. Around 70 ° C, turbines and blades are started to stir the mixture.

The mixture is dispersed for 20 min at the temperature of 90 ° C and then cooled with stirring (turbines and blades). The microbeads of carnauba wax are introduced into the mixture at a temperature of 35-40 ° C. under blades.

Cooling is continued until the ambient temperature is reached. The preservatives are then introduced under homogenization blades only then emptying. 2 / Mascara composition according to the invention T ype Chemical Name Mascara 1 Cosmetic (% by weight) Charge modified Hectorite Distearyl dimethyl 6 ammonium (Bentone 38 VCG - ELEMENTIS) Dyestuff Iron oxide black (CI: 77499) 6 (Sunpuro Black iron oxide C33-7001 - SUN) Fatty substances Beeswax white 8.7 (GR B 889 - KOSTER KEUNEN) Isohexadecane 15 Mircrobils of carnauba wax 7 (Microcare 350 - MICRO POWDERS) Refined Sunflower Wax 2,3 (SUNFLOWER WAX - KOSTER KEUNEN) Polymer Copolymer vinyl acetate / stearate 3 vinyl. allyl (65/35) (Mexomere PQ - Chimex) Polymer Polybutene (monoolefins / isoparaffins) (MW: 920) 10 (Indopol H 100 - INEOS) Condensate dihydrogen C36 1 Hydrogen / ethylenediamine, esterified with stearyl alcohol (PM : about 4000) stabilized (ANOX 20) (OLEOCRAFT LP-10-PA- (MV) - CRODA) Polymer Behenyl polyacrylate 3 POSC (Intelimer IPA 13-6 - AIR PRODUCTS AND CHEMICALS) Silicon Cyclohexadimethylsiloxane 10 (Viscosity: 8 CST) (KF-996 - SHIN ETSU) Dimethiconol 5 (Low Tack) Grafted Silicate Resin in Isododecane (40% Active BIOPSA) (Dow Corning 7-4405 Cosmetic Fluid - Dow Corning) Preservative 3 Propylene Carbonate (Arconate Propylene Carbonate - 2 Solvent LYONDELL) Isododecane 18 3 / Results The protocols described above were applied to this mascara composition in order to study in particular its bending and playtime properties.

The results obtained were compared with the results obtained: - in the absence of makeup application (negative control); with the Maybelline Volume Express WP® commercial composition (Comparative 1), and with the Maybelline Volume Express WP® commercial composition associated with the application of a Agnès b. (CURL BRUSHINGe HEATING Comb) (Comparative 2). All of these results are shown in Figure 3. First, the bending values measured in the absence of makeup reflect the natural bending of the eyelashes. The values thus obtained remain very low. The composition according to the invention confers a bending of eyelashes significantly greater than that obtained with the two comparative tests. Thus, the bending angle value obtained according to the invention is 2.5 times greater than that obtained with Comparative 2 and more than 4 times greater than that obtained with Comparative 1. The alteration over time of this bending is proportionally similar to that observed with the comparative compositions. In addition, a playtime value of less than 4 was obtained with the mascara according to the invention.

Claims (22)

REVENDICATIONS1. A set for conditioning and applying a composition for makeup and / or care of keratinous fibers, in particular eyelashes or eyebrows, comprising: i) an anhydrous makeup and / or care composition, comprising at least one wax of sunflower and a volatile hydrocarbon oil, ii) an application element of said composition, and iii) heating means for bringing said composition to a temperature conducive to its deformability. 2. The assembly of claim 1, wherein said composition comprises as volatile hydrocarbon oil at least isododecane, and preferably isododecane and isohexadécane. 3. An assembly according to claim 1 or 2, wherein said composition comprises from 10% to 60% by weight, and in particular from 15% to 40% by weight, of volatile hydrocarbon oil (s) relative to the total weight of the composition. An assembly according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said composition comprises from 0.1% to 10% by weight, and in particular from 1% to 5% by weight of sunflower wax, based on the total weight of the composition. 5. An assembly according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said composition further comprises at least one volatile silicone oil, especially chosen from linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) having from 3 to 7 atoms of silicon. 6. An assembly according to any preceding claim, wherein said composition further comprises at least one microwell, including a carnauba microcire. 7. Assembly according to the preceding claim, wherein the heating temperature of the heating means is less than or equal to 5 ° C relative to the melting temperature of the microcircle, preferably strictly less than 5 ° C with respect to the temperature. melting of the microwax. An assembly according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition comprises at least one polymer selected from the group consisting of semi-crystalline polymers; liposoluble film-forming polymers; and polymers (A) derived from the (co) polymerization of at least one C4 alkene monomer, and preferably comprises at least one semi-crystalline polymer, at least one liposoluble film-forming polymer and at least one polymer (A). ) derived from the (co) polymerization of at least one at least one C4 alkene monomer. 9. Assembly according to the preceding claim, wherein the liposoluble film-forming polymer is a vinyl ester copolymer. 10. The assembly of claim 8 or 9, wherein the semicrystalline polymer is selected from poly (Cio-C30) alkylacrylates. 11. An assembly according to any one of claims 8 to 10, wherein the polymer (A) has a molecular weight greater than or equal to 750 g / mol, preferably between 800 and 10 000 g / mol, more preferably included between 900 and 5000 g / mol and is preferably a homopolymer of polybut-1-ene. 12. An assembly according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said composition further comprises at least one non-volatile oil. 13. An assembly according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition comprises at least one dyestuff, preferably selected from pulverulent materials, fat-soluble dyes, water-soluble dyes, and mixtures thereof. 14. An assembly according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition is a mascara. 15. An assembly according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the heating means are adapted to bring the composition to a temperature greater than or equal to 30 ° C, preferably greater than or equal to 45 ° C, in particular at a temperature between 50 ° C and 75 ° C, more preferably between 60 ° C and 65 ° C. 16. An assembly according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the heating means are associated with the applicator element. 17. An anhydrous composition, especially cosmetic, comprising at least one sunflower wax and a volatile hydrocarbon oil. 18. Composition according to the preceding claim, being as defined according to any one of claims 2 to 14. 19. A cosmetic process for the makeup and / or non-therapeutic care of keratinous fibers, in particular eyelashes or eyebrows, comprising the application to said keratin fibers of a cosmetic composition as defined in any one of Claims 1 to 14. said composition being heated to a temperature greater than or equal to 30 ° C, preferably greater than or equal to 45 ° C, in particular at a temperature of between 50 ° C and 75 ° C, more preferably between 60 ° C and 65 ° C . 20. Method according to the preceding claim, wherein said composition is heated before application to the keratinous fibers. 21. Cosmetic use of a composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 14, for obtaining a film deposited on the keratinous fibers, in particular eyelashes or eyebrows, homogeneous and having improved bending properties and / or improved holding of this bending over time. 22. Cosmetic use of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 14, to obtain a mascara with good playtime properties.