FR3080035A1 - COSMETIC COMPOSITION FOR KERATIN FIBERS - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to a composition, preferably cosmetic care and / or makeup of keratin materials, in particular eyelashes and / or eyebrows, comprising: - (1) at least one polyol ester and acid (s) fatty acid (s) said fatty acid (s) having a number of carbon atoms greater than or equal to 20; - (2) at least one fatty acid having from 14 carbon atoms to less than 20 carbon atoms; carbon, - (3) at least one organic base, in particular derived from an alkanolamine, capable of at least partially neutralizing said fatty acid (2), - (4) at least one fatty alcohol preferably chosen from fatty alcohols. C14-C30, more preferably selected from linear and saturated C14-C24 fatty acids, more preferably C14-C20, - (5) at least one semi-crystalline polymer, and - (6) water.

Description

COSMETIC COMPOSITION FOR KERATINIC FIBERS

The present invention relates to the field of care and / or make-up of keratin materials, and aims to propose compositions more particularly dedicated to making up the eyelashes or eyebrows.

By "keratin materials" is preferably meant human keratin materials, in particular keratin fibers.

By “keratin fibers” is meant in particular the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows, and preferably the eyelashes. This term "keratin fibers", within the meaning of the present invention also extends to synthetic false eyelashes.

In general, the compositions dedicated to making up keratin fibers, for example the eyelashes, aim to densify the thickness and the visual perception of the eyelashes and ultimately the look. These mascaras are qualified as aqueous or even cream mascaras, when they are formulated in aqueous base and anhydrous mascaras when they are formulated in the dispersed state in an organic solvent medium.

A wide variety of cosmetic effects can be provided by the application of a mascara to the keratin fibers and in particular the eyelashes, such as for example a volumizing, lengthening, thickening and more particularly loading effect.

These effects are mainly adjusted through the quantity and nature of the particles and especially those of the waxes present in mascaras. In general, mascaras indeed have a significant amount of wax (es) and in particular from 10 to 35% by weight of waxes, more generally from 15 to 30% by weight relative to their total weight.

For obvious reasons, the improvement of the mascara textures which condition the manifestation of one or more makeup effects is a constant concern of the cosmetic formulator.

Furthermore, it is expected that the specific effects attached to a particular formulation, for example loading and also providing excellent separation of the made-up eyelashes, will be reproduced almost identically by all the batches of manufacture of the same formulation.

Satisfying these expectations and / or objectives therefore requires being able to precisely adjust the texture of a mascara and reproduce it as faithfully as possible with batches not necessarily manufactured at the same time but identical in terms of ingredients. and therefore having to provide makeup effects in theory also identical.

However, as stated above, the mascaras currently available are, for the most part, formulated with a significant quantity of waxes. However, as detailed in the document Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry 2015, Wiley-VCH Verlag GmbH & Co. KGaA, Weinheim 10.1002 / 14356007.a28.pub2 most of the waxes do not consist of a single chemical compound but are rather mixtures complex. They can be mixtures of oligomers and / or polymers which, in many cases, also have molecular weights, molecular weight distributions and varying degrees of branching. Thus, a polar wax is conventionally formed from a mixture of alkanes, fatty alcohols and fatty esters, the length of the fatty chains of which varies according to the melting point.

It is therefore very difficult for the manufacturers of these waxes to guarantee a strictly identical composition for all the manufacturing batches. More specifically, there may be, between several manufacturing batches of the same wax, variability in the chemical nature of some of its constituent compounds. Similarly, the proportionality of some of its constituent compounds is also likely to vary between manufacturing batches.

For obvious reasons, these variabilities have a significant impact on the properties of the wax and therefore on those of the mascara incorporating this wax in significant quantities. Thus, two mascara formulations of identical composition and therefore produced from the same conventional wax and in the same quantity, may nevertheless diverge in terms of rheological properties and therefore of texture, if they have been produced from two production batches. distinct in this wax.

Consequently, the use of conventional waxes, in particular in significant quantities, in mascara compositions, does not make it possible to guarantee to users, the reproduction of finely adjusted and completely identical rheological properties on all mascara specimens of a same composition.

The present invention aims precisely to provide mascara compositions free from this limitation.

Thus, a first object of the present invention is to access mascara compositions whose texturing properties are finely adjustable and reproducible.

Another object of the present invention is to provide an architecture of mascara developed from a preponderant proportion by weight of single-component ingredients. The predominant use of single-component ingredients advantageously makes it possible to overcome the risk of variability in composition which may exist between several batches of manufacture of a multicomponent ingredient and therefore of its impact on the final properties of the mascara.

Another object of the present invention is to provide an architecture of mascara making it possible to significantly reduce or even to get rid of the use of waxes but nevertheless remaining very satisfactory in terms of makeup effect.

Thus, another object of the invention is to provide consumers with compositions, in particular cosmetic compositions, and in particular mascaras, compatible with a long playtime while making it possible to preserve the separation of the eyelashes.

Another object of the invention is to provide, in addition, consumers with compositions which have a creamy texture.

Finally, an object of the invention is to meet, essentially, the aforementioned objects, while providing the composition with great stability.

By "stable composition" is meant that the composition remains make-up after storage for two months at a temperature of 45 ° C. and that it retains its approval and its sensory signature on application. More specifically, a “stable composition” according to the invention exhibits an acceptable viscosity change, that is to say that the difference between the initial viscosity and the viscosity after storage for two months at a temperature of 45 ° C. remains less than 10 Pa.s.

Unexpectedly, the inventors have found that it is possible to significantly or even completely dispense with waxes as texturing agent in formulations for making up and / or caring for keratin fibers and therefore the limitations mentioned above, provided that very specific compounds are combined in such formulations.

Thus, the present invention relates, according to a first of its aspects, to a composition, preferably cosmetic, in particular for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, in particular eyelashes and / or eyebrows, comprising:

- (1) at least one polyol and fatty acid ester (s), the said fatty acid (s) having a number of carbon atoms greater than or equal to 20,

- (2) at least one fatty acid having from 14 carbon atoms to less than 20 carbon atoms,

- (3) at least one organic base, in particular derived from an alkanolamine, capable of at least partially neutralizing said fatty acid (2),

(4) at least one fatty alcohol preferably chosen from C ₄ -C30 fatty alcohols, better chosen from linear fatty alcohols and saturated with C14-C24, even better with C14-C20,

- (5) at least one semi-crystalline polymer, and

- (6) water.

Unexpectedly, the inventors have in fact found that the formulation in aqueous medium of at least one polyol ester and of fatty acid (s) (1), in combination with at least one neutralized form of a fatty acid having from 14 carbon atoms to less than 20 carbon atoms, at least one semi-crystalline polymer (5) and at least one fatty alcohol (4), gives access to compositions whose texture can be finely adjusted and guaranteed in reproducibility term.

As appears from what follows, these new compositions are advantageous in several aspects.

First of all, the compounds (1) to (5) required according to the invention are of synthetic origin and, as such, of increased purity compared for example to a natural wax.

They are also, as an individual compound, single-component or a very specific number of components as opposed to the majority of conventional waxes which are often multi-component or even with an indefinite number of compounds such as natural waxes and certain synthetic waxes. .

These two specificities are particularly interesting because they make it possible to get rid of a risk of variability with regard to their respective compositions.

As is apparent from the examples below, the compositions in accordance with the invention and based on the use of compounds (1) to (5) as texturing agent prove to be very satisfactory in terms of makeup effects .

Thus, compositions according to the invention can have a creamy texture and which turns out to be finely adjustable thanks to the implementation of the combination required according to the invention.

Obtaining these properties is conditioned by the use of compounds (1) to (5) and advantageously therefore does not require the additional presence of waxes, in particular in significant quantities.

Thus, the compositions according to the invention advantageously comprise less than 5% in waxes as defined below.

The term “waxes” is intended to mean lipophilic compounds, solid at room temperature (20 ° C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg), with reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point greater than or equal to 40 ° C up to 120 ° C.

Within the meaning of the invention, the waxes concerned by this limitation in quantity mentioned above are distinct from those capable of being represented by the polyol ester component and fatty acid (s) (1) and fatty alcohol (4 ) required according to the invention.

Finally, the manifestation of the makeup effects provided by the combination of compounds (1) to (5) is not acquired at the expense of the stability of the compositions.

According to another of its aspects, the present invention relates to a particularly cosmetic process for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, in particular the eyelashes and / or eyebrows, comprising at least one step consisting in applying to said keratin materials, in particular eyelashes and / or eyebrows, a composition in accordance with the invention.

ESTER OF POLYOL AND ACID) FAT (1)

As stated above, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one polyol ester and of fatty acid (s) (1), the said fatty acid (s) having a number of atoms of carbon greater than or equal to 20.

The composition according to the invention comprises at least 5.0% by weight, preferably at least 6.0% by weight, better still at least 7.0% by weight of polyol ester (s) and of acid (s) ) fat relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the polyol ester (s) and fatty acid (s) are present in the composition in a content ranging from 6.0% to 35.0% by weight, preferably 7.0% and 30.0%, or even preferably 8.0% to 28.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Within the meaning of the invention, the term “polyol ester and fatty acid (s)” includes both monoesters and polyesters of polyol and fatty acid (s).

The composition according to the invention may comprise a single polyol ester and fatty acid (s) (1) or several polyol esters and fatty acid (s) (1).

If several esters are present, these can be added separately during the preparation of the composition and their mixture can then be formed in situ. They can also be used in the form of a mixture already commercially available and in which the weight proportion and the degree of purity of each of the esters are controlled. In other words, the composition of these mixtures is faithfully reproducible as opposed to mixtures of polyol esters and fatty acid (s) generated via an esterification process, the distribution of the fatty chains of the initial reactants resulting in a mixture of multiple ester compounds whose composition is complex; like for example the KESTERWAX K82P appearing under the name INCI SYNTHETIC BEESWAX.

In particular, the ester of polyol and of fatty acid (s) is chosen from esters of glycerol and of fatty acid (s).

Thus, the esters of glycerol and of fatty acid (s) according to the invention correspond to the following formula (I):

Ri- O - CH ₂ - CHO - CH ₂ - O - R ₃ i (D r ₂ in which Ri, R ₂ and R ₃ may represent, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom H or an acyl radical, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, having a number of carbon atoms greater than or equal to 20, at least one of Ri, R ₂ and / or R ₃ representing an acyl radical, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, having a number of carbon atoms greater than or equal to 20.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the acyl radicals representing respectively Ri, R2 and R3 are chosen such that the compound of formula (I) is solid at a temperature less than or equal to 30 ° C.

In a preferred embodiment, the esters of glycerol and of fatty acid (s) according to the invention have a melting point above 50 ° C.

The melting temperature can be measured by any known method and in particular using a differential scanning calorimeter (D.S.C).

In a preferred embodiment of the invention, when Ri, R2 and / or R3 represent, independently of each other, acyl radicals, these acyl radicals are linear.

In a preferred embodiment of the invention, when Ri, R2 and / or R3 represent, independently of one another, acyl radicals, these acyl radicals are saturated.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, when Ri, R2 and / or R3 represent, independently of each other, acyl radicals, these acyl radicals are linear and saturated.

In a preferred embodiment of the invention, when Ri, R2 and / or R3 represent, independently of one another, acyl radicals, these acyl radicals are identical.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, when Ri, R2 and / or R3 represent, independently of each other, acyl radicals, these radicals have a number of carbon atoms ranging from 20 to 30, preferably of 20 to 24. In particular, Ri, R2 and / or R3 are chosen from arachidyl or behenyl, better still behenyl.

Preferably, when Ri, R2 and / or R3 represent, independently of one another, acyl radicals, these radicals are behenyl radicals.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the ester (s) of polyol and of fatty acid (s) (1) is (are) chosen (s) from a triester of glycerol and of acid (s ) fatty and a mixture of mono-, di-, tri-ester of glycerol and fatty acid (s).

In particular, the ester (s) of polyol and fatty acid (s) (1) is chosen from the triester of glycerol and behenic acid (or tribehenine) and a mixture of mono-, di- and tri-esters of glycerol and behenic acid (s), the better the tribehenine.

The mono-, di- and tri-esters of glycerol and behenic acid (s) are also found under the names glyceryl behenate, glyceryl dibehenate and glyceryl tribehenate (or tribehenine), respectively.

A triester of glycerol and of behenic acid which may be suitable for the invention is for example the product sold under the name Synchrowax HRC-PA- (MH) marketed by the company Croda.

A mixture of mono-, di- and tri-esters of glycerol and behenic acid (s) which may be suitable for the invention is for example Compritol 888 CG ATO sold by the company Gattefosse.

ION SURFACTANT

As specified above, the polyol and fatty acid ester (s) used according to the invention are associated with at least one ionic surfactant resulting from the neutralization of a fatty acid (2) comprising 14 less than 20 carbon atoms with an organic base (3).

More specifically, the ionic surfactant considered according to the invention results from the at least partial neutralization of the carboxylic functions of a fatty acid (2) comprising from 14 to less than 20 carbon atoms with an organic base (3).

FATTY ACID (2)

The fatty acid according to the invention comprises from 14 to less than 20 carbon atoms. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the fatty acid comprises from 16 to less than 20 carbon atoms. According to a particularly preferred mode, the number of carbon atoms in the fatty acid varies from 16 to 18.

In particular, the fatty acid (s) according to the invention is (are) chosen from linear fatty acids, saturated fatty acids and their mixtures.

According to a particularly advantageous embodiment of the invention, the fatty acid (s) of the ionic surfactant is (are) chosen from linear and saturated fatty acids.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the fatty acid (s) is (are) chosen from palmitic acid, stearic acid and their mixtures, and preferably comprises at least the stearic acid with INCI name STEARIC ACID.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition uses as fatty acid (2) a mixture of C 16 -C 18 fatty acids, preferably a mixture of fatty acids having 16 carbon atoms , such as palmitic acid, and fatty acids having 18 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid.

A preferred stearic acid suitable for the invention is, for example, Stearic Acid 1850 sold by the company Southern Acids.

A composition according to the invention may comprise at least 3.0% by weight of fatty acid (s) (2) relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the fatty acid is present in a content ranging from 3.5% to 20.0% by weight, preferably from 4.0 to 20.0%, better still from 4.5% at 15.0%, even better from 5.0% to 15.0% by weight of fatty acid (2), in particular stearic acid, relative to the total weight of the composition.

As mentioned above, this fatty acid is used in an ionic form generated via its interaction with an organic base. This base is used in an amount sufficient to be able to at least partially neutralize at least one fatty acid (2).

ORGANIC BASE (3)

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one organic base.

The organic base (s) can in particular be chosen from ammonium, and its amine and amino alcohol derivatives.

Preferably, the base of organic origin is chosen from alkanolamines such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, aminomethyl propanol, tromethamine and aminomethylpropanediol. According to a particular embodiment, the base is a primary (poly) hydroxyalkylamine. By primary (poly) hydroxyalkylamine is meant in particular a primary dihydroxyalkylamine, it being understood that by primary is meant a primary amine function, ie -NH2, and the alkyl group being a linear or branched C1-C5 hydrocarbon chain, preferably a branched C ₄ , such as 1,3-dihydroxy-2 methyl propyl. The primary (poly) hydroxyalkylamine is preferably 1,3-dihydroxy-2-methyl-2propylamine (also called aminomethylpropanediol or AMPD).

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the base of organic origin is chosen from triethanolamine, aminomethyl propanol and / or aminomethylpropanediol, and preferably comprises aminomethylpropanediol.

Such an aminomethylpropanediol suitable for the invention is for example the AMPD Ultra PC sold by the company Angus (Dow Coming).

The amount of organic base is adjusted to obtain sufficient neutralization to confer effective ionicity on the associated fatty acid (2). This adjustment clearly falls within the general competence of those skilled in the art.

Preferably, the organic base is present in an amount sufficient to neutralize part or all of the carboxylic functions of the fatty acid (s) (2) comprising from 14 to less than 20 carbon atoms. In a preferred embodiment, the amount of base is such that it is able to neutralize all the acid functions of the fatty acid (2).

For example, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least 0.1% by weight, better still at least 0.15% by weight of base relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the base is present in a content ranging from 0.2% to 3.0% by weight, preferably from 0.3% to 2.0% by weight of organic base (s) (s), in particular of aminomethylpropanediol, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, an ionic surfactant is obtained from the total neutralization of stearic acid with an aminomethylpropanediol.

The fatty acid (2) and the organic base (3) composing the neutralized ionic surfactant according to the invention can be introduced into the composition in the form of a single commercial material, or one after the other in the form of two separate commercial materials. Preferably, the fatty acid (2) and the organic base (3) will be introduced into the composition in the form of two separate commercial materials.

FAT ALCOHOL (4)

The compositions according to the invention also comprise at least one fatty alcohol. A composition can therefore comprise a single fatty alcohol according to the invention or several distinct fatty alcohols.

If several distinct fatty alcohols are present, these can be added separately during the preparation of the composition and their mixture can then be formed in situ. They can also be used in the form of a mixture already commercially available and in which the weight proportion and the degree of purity of each of the fatty alcohols are controlled. In other words, the composition of these mixtures is faithfully reproducible as opposed to mixtures of fatty alcohols generated via synthesis from raw materials from complex mixtures.

The fatty alcohol (s) is (are) in particular chosen (s) from linear or branched fatty alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, in C14-C30, preferably in C14-C24, and even better in C14-C20 ·

The fatty alcohol or alcohols is (are) in particular chosen from linear and saturated C14-C30 fatty alcohols, preferably linear and saturated C14C24 fatty alcohols, better the linear and saturated C14-C20 fatty alcohols

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the fatty alcohol is in the form of a mixture of several different fatty alcohols, preferably is a mixture of several linear fatty alcohols and saturated in C14-C30, better in C14-C24, even better in C14-C20.

Preferably, the fatty alcohol according to the invention is chosen from cetyl alcohol (Ci6), stearic alcohol (Cis) and their mixtures (also called "cetearl alcohol").

Preferably, the fatty alcohol according to the invention is a mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearic alcohol. Such a mixture is sold in particular under the name Lannette O OR / MB by the company BASF.

According to a preferred embodiment, the fatty alcohol is solid at room temperature.

The fatty alcohol is present in the compositions of the invention in amounts ranging from 1.0% to 20.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 2.0% to 15.0% by weight and even more particularly from 3.0% to 10.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

SEMI-CRYSTALLINE POLYMER (5)

The composition according to the invention comprises at least 2.0% by weight, preferably from 3.0% to 20.0% by weight, better from 4.0% to 15.0% by weight, better still from 5.0 % to 15.0% by weight of semi-crystalline polymer (s) relative to the total weight of the composition.

By "polymers" is meant in the sense of the invention compounds comprising at least 2 repeating units, preferably at least 3 repeating units and more especially at least 10 repeating units.

By “semi-crystalline polymer” is meant within the meaning of the invention, polymers comprising a crystallizable part and an amorphous part and having a reversible phase change temperature of the first order, in particular of melting (solid-liquid transition) . The crystallizable part is preferably a side chain (or pendant chain) to the skeleton.

Apart from the crystallizable chains or sequences, the sequences of the polymers are amorphous.

By “crystallizable chain or sequence” is meant within the meaning of the invention a chain or sequence which if it were alone would pass from the amorphous state to the crystalline state, reversibly, depending on whether one is above or below the melting temperature. A chain within the meaning of the invention is a group of atoms, pendant or lateral with respect to the skeleton of the polymer.

When the crystallizable part is a chain hanging from the skeleton, the semi-crystalline polymer can be a homopolymer or a copolymer.

Preferably, the semi-crystalline polymer has an organic structure.

By "organic compound" or "with organic structure" is meant compounds containing carbon atoms and hydrogen atoms and optionally heteroatoms such as S, O, N, P alone or in combination.

The semi-crystalline polymer (s) according to the invention are solids at room temperature (25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg), the melting temperature of which is greater than or equal to 30 ° C.

The melting point values correspond to the melting point measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DS C), such as the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by the company METTLER, with a rise in temperature of 5 ° C or 10 ° C per minute. (The melting point considered is the point corresponding to the temperature of the most endothermic peak of the thermogram).

According to a particular embodiment, the semi-crystalline polymer or polymers used in the composition of the invention have a melting point (or melting point) pE of less than 95 ° C, preferably less than 85 ° C. The semi-crystalline polymer (s) can thus have a melting point pE ranging from 30 ° C and 95 ° C, and preferably from 40 ° C and 85 ° C. This melting temperature is preferably a first order state change temperature.

According to the invention, the semi-crystalline polymers are advantageously soluble in the fatty phase, in particular at least 1.0% by weight, at a temperature above their melting temperature. Preferably, the polymer backbone of semicrystalline polymers is soluble in the fatty phase at a temperature above their melting temperature.

Preferably, the crystallizable blocks or chains of the semi-crystalline polymers represent at least 30% of the total weight of each polymer and better still at least 40%.

When the semi-crystalline polymers of the invention have crystallizable blocks, they can be copolymers, block or multi-block. They can be obtained by polymerization of monomer with reactive (or ethylenic) double bonds or by polycondensation. When the polymers of the invention are polymers with crystallizable side chains, the latter are advantageously in random or statistical form.

Preferably, the semi-crystalline polymers of the invention are of synthetic origin.

According to a preferred embodiment, the semi-crystalline polymer is chosen from homopolymers and copolymers comprising units resulting from the polymerization of one or more monomers carrying hydrophobic side chain (s) crystallizable (s) ,

The semi-crystalline polymers which can be used in the invention can be chosen in particular from homo- or co-polymers, in particular those carrying at least one crystallizable side chain, such as those described in document US-A-5,156,911.

In a preferred embodiment, the crystallizable side chain (s) are hydrophobic.

These homo- or co-polymers can result:

- polymerization, in particular radical polymerization, of one or more monomers with reactive or ethylenic double bond (s) with respect to a polymerization, namely with vinyl, (meth) acrylic group or allyl.

- polycondensation of one or more monomers bearing co-reactive groups (carboxylic or sulfonic acid, alcohol, amine or isocyanate), such as, for example, polyesters, polyurethanes, polyethers, polyureas.

Generally, the crystallizable units (chains or sequences) of the semi-crystalline polymers according to the invention come from monomer (s) with crystallizable block (s) or chain (s), used for the manufacture of semi-crystalline polymers. These polymers are preferably chosen in particular from homopolymers and copolymers resulting from the polymerization of at least one monomer with crystallizable chain (s) which can be represented by formula (II):

- Μ-S ^c (Π) with M representing an atony of the polymer backbone, C representing a crystallizable group, and S representing a spacer. The crystallizable "-SC" chains being aliphatic or aromatic hydrocarbon chains, comprising saturated or unsaturated alkyl hydrocarbon chains, for example C10-C40, preferably C10-C30.

"C" represents in particular a group (CfLjn linear or branched or cyclic, with n integer ranging from 10 to 40. Preferably "C" is a linear group. Preferably, "S" and "C" are different.

When the crystallizable chains are aliphatic hydrocarbon chains, they comprise alkyl hydrocarbon chains with at least 10 carbon atoms and at most 40 carbon atoms and better still at most 30 carbon atoms. H is in particular aliphatic chains or alkyl chains having at least 10 carbon atoms and preferably, these are C10-C40 alkyl chains, preferably C10C30 ·

Preferably, the crystallizable chains are C10-C30 aliphatic hydrocarbon chains.

As examples of semi-crystalline homopolymers or copolymers with crystallizable chain (s) suitable for the invention, mention may be made of those resulting from the polymerization of one or more of the following monomers: alkyl (meth) acrylates saturated with the C10-C30 alkyl group, the N-alkyl (meth) acrylamides with the Cio-C30 alkyl group, the vinyl esters with alkyl chains with the Cio-C30 alkyl group, the vinyl ethers with alkyl chains with the Cio to C30 alkyl group, Cio to C30 alpha-olefins such as, for example, octadecene, para-alkyl styrenes with an alkyl group containing from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, their mixtures.

When the polymers result from a polycondensation, the crystallizable hydrocarbon chains as defined above, are carried by a monomer which can be a diacid, a diol, a diamine, a di-isocyanate.

When the polymers which are the subject of the invention are copolymers, they additionally contain from 0 to 50% of groups Y which is a polar monomer, a non-polar monomer or a mixture of the two.

When Y is a polar monomer, it is either a monomer carrying polyoxyalkylenated groups (in particular oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated), a hydroxy (meth) acrylate such as hydroxyethyl acrylate, (meth) acrylamide, a N-alkyl (meth) acrylamide, an NN-dialkyl (meth) acrylamide such as for example NN-diisopropylacrylamide or N-vinyl-pyrolidone (NVP), N-vinyl caprolactam, a monomer carrying at least one acid group carboxylic like (meth) acrylic acids, crotonic, itaconic, maleic, fumaric or carrying a carboxylic acid anhydride group like maleic anhydride, and mixtures thereof.

When Y is a non-polar monomer, it may be an ester of the branched or cyclic linear (meth) acrylate type, a vinyl ester, an alkyl vinyl ether, an alpha-olefin, styrene or styrene substituted by an alkyl group. in C 1 to C 10, such as (- methylstyrene, a macromonomer of the polyorganosiloxane type with vinyl unsaturation.

Preferably, the semi-crystalline polymers with a crystallizable side chain (s) are homopolymers of alkyl (meth) acrylate or of alkyl (meth) acrylamide with an alkyl group as defined above, and in particular in C10-C30, copolymers of these monomers with a hydrophilic monomer preferably of a different nature from (meth) acrylic acid such as N-vinylpyrrolidone or hydroxyethyl (meth) acrylate and their mixtures.

It is also possible to use the semi-crystalline polymers obtained by copolymerization of behenyl acrylate and acrylic acid or Nvinylpyrrolidone, as described in documents US-A-5,519,063.

Advantageously, the semi-crystalline polymer (s) with crystallizable side chain (s) have a weight-average molecular mass Mp ranging from 5,000 g / mol to 1,000,000 g / mol, preferably 10,000 g / mol to 800,000 g / mol, preferably from 15,000 g / mol to 500,000 g / mol, more preferably from 80,000 g / mol to 200,000 g / mol.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the semi-crystalline polymer can be chosen from homo- and copolymers resulting from the polymerization of at least one monomer with crystallizable side chain (s) chosen from (meth) C10 to C30 saturated alkyl acrylates, which can be represented by the following formula:

CH = C-C-X-R

R! 0 in which Ri is H or CH3, R represents a C10 to C30 alkyl group, and X represents O.

According to a more particular embodiment of the invention, the semi-crystalline polymer is derived from the polymerization of monomers with crystallizable side chain (s) chosen from saturated Cio to C30 alkyl (meth) acrylates ·

The semi-crystalline polymers with a side chain which can be crystallized, can be chosen from the copolymers resulting from the copolymerization of acrylic acid and (meth) acrylate of Cio to C30 alkyl, in particular such as those described in patent US-A5,156,911 .

The semi-crystalline polymers can be in particular those described in Examples 3, 4, 5, 7, 9 of US-A-5,156,911 and more particularly those obtained by copolymerization:

- acrylic acid, hexadecylacrylate and isodecylacrylate in a 1/16/3 ratio,

- acrylic acid and pentadecylacrylate in a 1/19 ratio,

- acrylic acid, hexadecylacrylate, ethylacrylate in a ratio 2.5 / 76.5 / 20,

- acrylic acid, hexadecylacrylate and methylacrylate in a 5/85/10 ratio,

- acrylic acid, polyoctadecylmethacrylate in a ratio 2.5 / 97.5.

As a particular example of a semi-crystalline polymer which can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of the Intelimer® products from the company Landec described in the brochure “Intelimer® polymers”, Landec IP22 (Rev. 4-97) . These polymers are in solid form at room temperature (25 ° C). They carry crystallizable side chains and have the above formula (II). These are (Cio-C3o) alkyl polyacrylates, which are particularly suitable as semi-crystalline polymers which can be included in a composition in accordance with the present invention.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the semi-crystalline polymer (s) (5) according to the invention is (are) derived from a monomer with a crystallizable chain chosen from saturated C10 to C30 alkyl (meth) acrylates and more particularly from poly (stearyl acrylate), poly (behenyl acrylate) and their mixtures.

Preferably, the semi-crystalline polymers suitable for the invention are in particular poly (stearyl) acrylate, in particular that marketed under the name Intelimer® IPA 13-1, from the company Air Products and Chemicals or Landec, which is a poly (stearylacrylate of which the melting temperature is equal to 49 ° C., or behenyl polyacrylate, sold under the name Intelimer® IPA 13-6, from the company Air Products and Chemicals or Landec, which is a behenyl polyacrylate, the melting temperature of which is equal to 65 ° C.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the semi-crystalline polymer is at least one poly (behenyl acrylate).

Examples of homopolymers or copolymers suitable as semi-crystalline polymers for the invention preferably comprise from 50 to 100% by weight of units resulting from the polymerization of one or more monomers carrying a hydrophobic crystallizable side chain.

WATER (6)

A composition according to the invention comprises water.

In particular, a composition according to the invention comprises at least 30.0% by weight, better still at least 40.0% by weight, or even a content of 50% to 60% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.

In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises:

- (1) at least one triester of glycerol and fatty acid (s) C20-C24,

- (2) at least one fatty acid chosen from stearic acid, palmitic acid and their mixtures,

- (3) at least aminomethylpropanediol,

- (4) at least one linear and saturated fatty alcohol chosen from those in C14-C20,

- (5) at least one semi-crystalline polymer resulting from the polymerization of at least one monomer with crystallizable side chain (s), and

- (6) water.

In another particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises:

- (1) at least one triester of glycerol and fatty acid (s) C20-C24,

- (2) at least stearic acid as fatty acid,

- (3) at least aminomethylpropanediol,

- (4) at least one mixture of cetyl and stearilic alcohol as fatty alcohol,

- (5) at least one behenyl polyacrylate as semi-crystalline polymer resulting from the polymerization of at least one monomer with crystallizable side chain (s), and

- (6) water.

In yet another particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises

- (1) at least tribehenine as triester of glycerol and fatty acid (s) C20-C24,

- (2) at least one fatty acid chosen from stearic acid, palmitic acid and their mixtures,

- (3) at least aminomethylpropanediol,

- (4) at least one mixture of cetyl and stearic alcohol as fatty alcohol,

- (5) at least one behenyl polyacrylate as semi-crystalline polymer resulting from the polymerization of at least one monomer with crystallizable side chain (s), and

- (6) water.

In yet another particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises:

- (1) at least tribehenine as triester of glycerol and fatty acid (s) C20-C24,

- (2) at least stearic acid as fatty acid,

- (3) at least aminomethylpropanediol,

- (4) at least one linear and saturated fatty alcohol chosen from those in C14-C20,

- (5) at least one behenyl polyacrylate as semi-crystalline polymer resulting from the polymerization of at least one monomer with crystallizable side chain (s), and

- (6) water.

In yet another particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises:

- (1) at least tribehenine as triester of glycerol and fatty acid (s) C20-C24,

- (2) at least stearic acid as fatty acid,

- (3) at least aminomethylpropanediol,

- (4) at least one mixture of cetyl and stearic alcohol as fatty alcohol,

- (5) at least one semi-crystalline polymer resulting from the polymerization of at least one monomer with crystallizable side chain (s), and

- (6) water.

In yet another very particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises:

- (1) at least tribehenine as triester of glycerol and fatty acid (s) C20-C24,

- (2) at least stearic acid as fatty acid,

- (3) at least aminomethylpropanediol,

- (4) at least one mixture of cetyl and stearic alcohol as fatty alcohol,

- (5) at least one behenyl polyacrylate as semi-crystalline polymer resulting from the polymerization of at least one monomer with crystallizable side chain (s), and

- (6) water.

OTHER COMPONENTS

In addition to the aforementioned compounds, a composition according to the invention can of course comprise additional ingredients.

a) Waxes

Thus, a composition according to the invention can also comprise a wax.

However, with regard to the objectives targeted by the present invention, the compositions according to the invention preferably comprise a reduced amount of wax and in particular less than 5% by weight or even less than 3% by weight of waxes relative to their total weight.

As specified in the preamble, within the meaning of the invention, the term “waxes” means lipophilic compounds, solid at room temperature (20 ° C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg), with change of solid / liquid state reversible, having a melting point greater than or equal to 40 ° C up to 120 ° C.

It is recalled that for the purposes of the invention, the waxes concerned by the abovementioned quantity limitation are distinct from those capable of being represented by the polyol ester component and fatty acid (s) (1) and / or the fatty alcohol component (4) required according to the invention.

Are more particularly concerned by this limitation, the waxes formed from complex mixtures and in particular described in the document Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry 2015, Wiley-VCH Verlag GmbH & Co. KGaA,

Such waxes can in particular be natural but also synthetic.

The term “natural” wax is intended to denote any wax preexisting in nature or which can be transformed, extracted or purified from natural compounds existing in nature.

Among the natural waxes, mention may be made of so-called fossil waxes, including those of petroleum origin such as ozocerite, pyropissite, macrocrystalline waxes also known as paraffins - including crude or slack wax, slack wax, oiled slack wax, soft waxes, semi-refined waxes, filtered waxes, refined waxes - and microcrystalline waxes called microcires including “bright stock” slack wax. Fossil waxes still contain lignite, also known as montan wax, or peat wax.

As natural waxes other than fossil waxes, mention may be made of animal and vegetable waxes.

Examples of vegetable waxes that may be mentioned are camauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricuri wax, sugar cane wax, jojoba wax, Trithrinax campestris wax, raffia wax , alfalfa wax, wax extracted from Douglas fir, sisal wax, linseed wax, cotton wax, dammar Batavia wax, cereal wax, tea wax, coffee wax , rice wax, palm wax, Japanese wax, their mixtures and their derivatives.

Examples of animal waxes include, beeswax, Ghedda wax, shellac, Chinese wax, lanolin also known as wool wax, their mixtures and their derivatives.

These waxes are generally multi-component. For example, natural beeswax is composed of approximately 70% of esters for the majority of monoesters (fatty acid and fatty alcohol), but also of hydroxy-esters, of di- and tri- esters and esters of sterols, as well as linear long chain hydrocarbons, free acids and free alcohols. For obvious reasons, the proportion by weight of their ingredients and their degree of purity are difficult to guarantee from one production batch to another.

By "synthetic" wax is meant waxes whose synthesis requires one or more chemical reactions carried out by man.

Among the synthetic waxes, semi-synthetic waxes and totally synthetic waxes can be distinguished. The synthetic waxes can be waxes obtained by a Fischer-Tropsch process, consisting for example of paraffins with a number of carbon atoms ranging from 20 to 50 or polyolefin waxes, for example homo or copolymers of ethylene, of propene or butene, or even α-olefins of longer chains. The latter can be obtained by thermomechanical degradation of polyethylene plastic, by the Ziegler process, by high pressure processes, or also by processes catalyzed by metallocene species. These waxes can be crystallizable, partially crystallizable or amorphous. The aforementioned synthetic waxes are generally apolar and can be chemically treated to obtain polar waxes, for example by one or more of the following reactions: air oxidation, grafting, esterification, neutralization with metallic soaps, amidation, direct copolymerizations or addition reactions.

Again, their composition may consist of a mixture of ingredients because the lengths of fatty chains are not well defined, thus forming a mixture of compounds of different lengths of fatty chains and which it is difficult for manufacturers to guarantee a perfect reproducibility from one production batch to another.

Consequently, the compositions according to the invention advantageously comprise less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 3% by weight of waxes, in particular in natural or synthetic multi-component wax relative to the total weight of the composition.

Within the meaning of the invention, a multi-component wax denotes a wax consisting of a mixture of several ingredients, either as it naturally exists like natural waxes, or as it is formed during the process of industrial synthesis of these materials.

In a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition is devoid of these waxes, in particular natural or synthetic multi-component wax.

As specified above, the preferred texturing compounds according to the invention are, by contrast and advantageously, mono-component, synthetic compounds, and therefore available in a form purified to more than 99%, like the compound (1) required according to the invention.

b) other surfactants

The composition according to the invention may comprise other surfactants than that formed by the neutralization of a fatty acid having from 14 carbon atoms to less than 20 carbon atoms (2) by the organic base (3) as co -tensioactifs.

However, according to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises less than 5.0% by weight, preferably less than 2.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of nonionic surfactants, and in particular of HLB nonionic surfactants, measured at 25 ° C, greater than or equal to 7.

The term HLB (from the English "Hydrophilic Lipophilie Balance") is well known to those skilled in the art, and designates the hydrophilic-lipophilic balance of a surfactant determined at 25 ° C in the sense of Griffin. By hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) is meant the balance between the size and strength of the hydrophilic group and the size and strength of the lipophilic group of the surfactant. The HLB value according to Griffin is defined in J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (volume 5), pages 249-256.

In a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition is devoid of nonionic surfactants of HLB at 25 ° C. greater than or equal to 7.

c) Hydrophilic film-forming polymer (s)

A composition according to the invention may preferably comprise at least one hydrophilic film-forming polymer.

Within the meaning of the present invention, the term “hydrophilic polymer” means a water-soluble polymer.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “water-soluble polymer” means a polymer which, introduced into water at a concentration equal to 1%, leads to a macroscopically homogeneous solution, the light transmittance of which at a wavelength equal to 500 nm, through a 1 cm thick sample, is at least 10%.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “film-forming polymer” means a polymer capable of forming on its own or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a macroscopically continuous deposit, and preferably a cohesive deposit, and better still a deposit of which the cohesion and the mechanical properties are such that the said deposit can be isolable and can be handled in isolation, for example when the said deposit is produced by casting on a non-stick surface such as a teflon or silicone surface.

A particularly advantageous hydrophilic film-forming polymer within the meaning of the invention is a hydrophilic (poly) vinylpyrrolidone polymer.

A hydrophilic (poly) vinylpyrrolidone polymer suitable for the invention can have a weight average molecular weight, Mw, ranging from 1500 to 500,000 g / mol.

A composition according to the invention comprises a total dry matter content of hydrophilic polymer (s) (poly) vinylpyrrolidone greater than or equal to 0.5% by weight, preferably 1.0% by weight, more preferably at 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention preferably comprises from 0.1% to 15.0% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10.0% by weight, better still from 1.0% to 8.0% by weight hydrophilic film-forming polymer (s) relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the hydrophilic polymer (s) (poly) vinylpyrrolidone in accordance with the invention is (are) linear (s).

In particular, the hydrophilic polymer (s) (poly) vinylpyrrolidone in accordance with the invention is (are) chosen from random polymers, block copolymers and their mixture. By “block copolymer” is meant a polymer comprising at least 2 separate blocks or blocks, preferably at least 3 separate blocks.

The hydrophilic polymer (s) (poly) vinylpyrrolidone is (are) chosen from:

- (poly) vinylpyrrolidone homopolymers,

- (poly) vinylpyrrolidone / (poly) vinyl acetate, ester copolymers

-the (poly) vinylpyrrolidone / (meth) acrylic copolymers, their salts, theirs and their mixture.

As homopolymers of (poly) vinylpyrrolidone, there may be mentioned for example

- POLYVINYLPYRROLIDONE (2500 g / mol) sold under the trade name KOLLIDON 17 PF by the company BASF,

- POLYVINYLPYRROLIDONE sold under the trade name LUVISKOL K 30 POWDER by the company BASF or also sold under the trade name PVP K 30L by the company ISP (ASHLAND),

- POLYVINYLPYRROLIDONE sold under the trade name PVP K 90 by the company ISP (ASHLAND).

As (poly) vinylpyrrolidone / (poly) vinyl acetate copolymers, mention may be made, for example, of the VINYLPYRROLIDONE / VINYL ACETATE (60/40) copolymer sold under the trade name LUVISKOL VA 64 POWDER by the company BASF.

d) Liquid fatty phase

A composition according to the invention can also comprise a liquid fatty phase.

Such a liquid fatty phase is an organic phase which is liquid at room temperature (20 ° C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg), non-aqueous and immiscible with water.

The liquid fatty phase may contain a non-volatile oil chosen from polar oils, non-polar oils and their mixtures.

A composition according to the invention may comprise from 1.0% to 20.0% by weight, from 2.0% to 12.0% by weight, and preferably from 2.0% to 8.0% by weight of non-volatile oil relative to the total weight of the composition.

A composition according to the invention generally comprises less than 5.0% by weight, preferably less than 2.0% by weight of volatile oil (s) relative to the total weight of the composition. In a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition is devoid of volatile oils.

By “volatile oil” is meant an oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than an hour, at ambient temperature (20 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg). More specifically, a volatile oil has an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 200 mg / cm ² .min.

e) Coloring matter

A composition according to the invention, and in particular those dedicated to make-up, generally comprises at least one coloring material such as pulverulent materials, liposoluble dyes, water-soluble dyes.

The pulverulent coloring matters can be chosen from pigments and nacres.

The pigments can be white or colored, mineral and / or organic, coated or not. Among the mineral pigments, mention may be made of titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium, zinc or cerium oxides, as well as iron or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, hydrate of chromium and ferric blue. Among the organic pigments, there may be mentioned carbon black, pigments of the D & C type, and lakes based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum.

The nacres can be chosen from white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearly pigments such as mica titanium with iron oxides, mica titanium with in particular ferric blue or l chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

The liposoluble dyes are for example Sudan red, D&C Red 17, D&C Green 6, β-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan brown, D&C Yellow 11, D&C Violet 2, D&C Orange 5, quinoline yellow, annatto.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a pulverulent coloring matter, preferably of the pigment type, in particular metal oxides.

Preferably, said coloring material is present in the composition in a content ranging from 2.0% to 25.0% by weight, preferably from 3.0% to 20.0%, more particularly from 4.0% to 15%. , 0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

f) Cosmetic active ingredients

As cosmetic active agents which can be used in the compositions according to the invention, there may be mentioned in particular antioxidants, preservatives, perfumes, neutralizers, cosmetic active agents such as, for example, emollients, vitamins and filters, in particular sunscreens, and their mixtures.

These additives can be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.01% to 15.0%, of the total weight of the composition.

Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional additives and / or their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, altered by the envisaged addition.

PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS

a) Dry extract

The composition according to the invention advantageously comprises a dry extract content of at least 42.0% by weight, and preferably at least 44.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, or even from 45.0% to 60.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

For the purposes of the present invention, the “dry extract content” denotes the content of non-volatile matter.

The amount of dry extract (abbreviated as ES) of a composition according to the invention is measured using a commercial halogen desiccator "HALOGEN MOISTURE ANALYZER HR 73" from Mettler TOLEDO. The measurement is made on the basis of the weight loss of a sample dried by halogen heating and therefore represents the percentage of residual matter once the water and volatile matter have evaporated.

This technique is fully described in the device documentation provided by Mettler TOLEDO.

The measurement protocol is as follows:

About 2 g of the composition, hereinafter the sample, are spread on a metal dish which is introduced into the halogen desiccator mentioned above. The sample is then subjected to a temperature of 105 ° C until a constant weight is obtained. The Wet Mass of the sample, corresponding to its initial mass, and the Dry Mass of the sample, corresponding to its mass after halogen heating, are measured using a precision balance.

The experimental error related to the measurement is of the order of plus or minus 2%.

The dry extract content is calculated as follows:

Dry Extract Content (expressed in% by weight) = 100 x (Dry Mass / Wet Mass).

b) Viscosity

A composition according to the invention is advantageously creamy at room temperature of 20 ° C.

It is characterized by a viscosity of less than 40 Pa.s, or even preferably less than 35 Pa.s, or even less than 30 Pa.s, measured at room temperature of 20 ° C using a Rheomat RM 100 ®.

Preferably, the viscosity of the compositions according to the invention varies from 2.0 to 40.0 Pa.s, or even preferably from 2.5 to 35.0 Pa.s, more particularly comprised from 3.0 to 30.0 Pa.s, measured at room temperature 20 ° C using a Rheomat RM100®.

Such a viscosity is particularly advantageous since it is best suited to the device for applying the mascara and it allows easy use for the consumer for a loading result.

The composition can be manufactured by known methods, generally used in the cosmetic field.

The composition used according to the invention may be a makeup composition, a makeup base, in particular keratin fibers, or base coat, a composition to be applied to makeup, also called a top coat, or even a treatment composition. keratin fibers.

More specifically, the composition according to the invention is a mascara.

Such compositions are especially prepared according to the general knowledge of those skilled in the art.

The expressions "ranging between ... and ..." and "going from ... to ..." must be understood bounds included, unless otherwise specified.

In the description and examples, unless otherwise indicated the percentages are percentages by weight. The percentages are therefore expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The ingredients are mixed, in the order and under the conditions easily determined by a person skilled in the art.

The invention will now be described by way of examples which are given for illustrative purposes only and should not be interpreted as limiting examples of the invention.

EXAMPLES

Example 1

Compositions of the mascara type in accordance with the invention (compositions 1) and compositions outside the invention (compositions 2 to 4) were prepared as described below.

Preparation of phase A

The raw materials were carefully weighed beforehand using a balance (accuracy = 0.01 g). The ingredients of phase A were melted in a double-pan pan in which circulates an oil whose temperature is controlled using a thermostatically controlled oil bath. The set temperature has been set at 90 ° C. After complete melting, the pigment was introduced with stirring by a Rayneri mixer. Stirring was continued until a homogeneous preparation was obtained.

Preparation of phase B

The water was previously heated using an electric kettle to 95 ° C. The preservatives and the organic base were introduced into water in a beaker at a temperature of 80 ° C. with stirring using a Rayneri mixer.

Emulsification of phases A and B

Phase B was poured into phase A with stirring for 5 minutes at 90 ° C. using a Rayneri mixer. Phase A + B was then cooled to room temperature with stirring.

End of formulation

The resulting mascara was transferred to a closed container to prevent it from drying out in contact with air. After 24 hours, the macroscopic uniformity of the sample, the state of dispersion of the fatty substances and of the pigment were evaluated under an optical microscope and the viscosity measured.

Composition 1 according to the invention:

Commercial reference INCI Name Composition 1 according to the invention AT Lanette O OR / MB by BASF CETEARYL ALCOOL (C16-C18) (compound (4)) 4.00 SYNCHROWAX HRC-PA- (MH) from Croda Tribehenin (compound (1)) 15,00 Intelimer IP A 13-6 Polymer from Air Products and Chemicals POLY Cio-Cao ALKYLACRYLATE (C22) (compound (5)) 6.00 Southem Stearic acid 1850 Acids STEARIC ACID (compound (2)) 6.00 Sunpuro black iron oxide C33-7001 from Sun IRON OXIDES 8.00 Polyvinyl pyrrolydone K 30 Powder from BASF POLYVINYL PYRROLYDONE 2.00 Protectol PE CO by BASF PHENOXYETHANOL 0.60

B Cosvat L by KRAEBER chlorphenesin 0.30 199602 Hydrolite CG from Symrise CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0.80 AMPD Ultra PC by Angus (Dow Corning) AMINOMETHYL PROPANEDIOL (compound (3)) 1.00 WATER qs Viscosity at 24H (in Pa.s) 2.9 Viscosity after 2 months at 45 ° C (in Pa.s) 6.4

Compositions from 2 to 4 outside the invention:

Reference commercial INCI Name Composition 2 outside the invention Composition 3 outside the invention Composition 4 outside the invention AT Lanette O BASF OR / MB CETEARYL ALCOHOL (C16-C18) 4.00 4.00 4.00 Synchrowax HRC-PA- (MH) from Croda Tribehenin - 21.0 - Compritol 888 CG ATO of Gattefosse GLYCERYL behenate 21.0 - - Intelimer IP A 136 Polymer from Air Products and Chemicals POLY Cio-C3O alkylacrylate (C22) - - 21.0 Southem Acids Stearic acid 1850 STEARIC ACID 6.00 6.00 6.00 Sunpuro black iron oxide C337001 from Sun IRON OXIDES 8.00 8.00 8.00 Polyvinyl pyrrolydone K 30 Powder from BASF POLYVINYL pyrrolidone 2.00 2.00 2.00 Protectol PE CO from BASF PHENOXYETHANOL 0.60 0.60 0.60

B Cosvat L from Kraeber chlorphenesin 0.30 0.30 0.30 199602 Hydrolite Symrise CG CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0.80 0.80 0.80 AMPD Ultra PC by Angus (Dow Coming) AMINOMETHYL propanediol 1.00 1.00 1.00 WATER qs qs qs Viscosity at 24H (in Pa.s) Too thick not measurable 0.35 1.1 Viscosity after 2 months at 45 ° C (in Pa.s) - 15.1 1.2

The stability of the compositions was examined after two months' stay at 45 ° C. of all the previous compositions. The texture of the sample which has remained at 45 ° C. is then compared with that of the sample which has remained at room temperature.

As described above, a stable composition is a composition which retains its texture, its homogeneity and the application of which remains pleasant. Conversely, a composition is qualified as unstable if its texture has become much thicker, if a phase separation appears or if the composition is no longer pleasant to the application.

All the results obtained are reported in the following table:

Composition according to the invention Compositions outside the invention 1 2 3 4 Aspect to the null eye Creamy texture Too thick, too rigid, no make-up Too fluid Too fluid Microscope Fine emulsion and homogeneous, Emulsion with fine crystals, inhomogeneous background, Fluid emulsion, spherical crystals and some platelets Emulsion too fluid, spherical crystals Stability Stable Not stable Not stable -

Composition 1 has adequate performance to be used for the care and / or make-up of the eyelashes.

On the other hand, the compositions outside the invention do not prove satisfactory in terms of stability.

Claims (24)

1. Composition, preferably cosmetic for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, in particular the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows, comprising: - (1) at least one polyol and fatty acid ester (s), the said fatty acid (s) having a number of carbon atoms greater than or equal to 20, - (2) at least one fatty acid having from 14 carbon atoms to less than 20 carbon atoms, - (3) at least one organic base, in particular derived from an alkanolamine, capable of at least partially neutralizing said fatty acid (2), (4) at least one fatty alcohol preferably chosen from fatty alcohols in C14-C30, better chosen from linear fatty alcohols and saturated in C14-C24, even better in C14-C20, - (5) at least one semi-crystalline polymer, and - (6) water. 2. Composition according to the preceding claim containing less than 5% by weight and preferably less than 3% by weight of waxes relative to the total weight of said composition. 3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the ester (s) of polyol and of fatty acid (s) (1) is (are) chosen from the esters of glycerol and d fatty acid (s) of formula (I) below: Ri- O - CH ₂ - CHO - CH ₂ - O - R ₃ I R2 ® in which Ri, R2 and R3 may represent, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or an acyl radical, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, having a number of carbon atoms greater than or equal to 20, at least one of Ri, R2 and / or R3 representing an acyl radical, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, having a number of carbon atoms greater than or equal to 20. 4. Composition according to the preceding claim, in which the radicals Ri, R2 and / or R3 are acyl radicals having a number of carbon atoms ranging from 20 to 30, preferably from 20 to 24, such as arachidyl or behenyl, better behenyl. 5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the ester (s) of polyol and of fatty acid (s) (1) is (are) chosen from a triester of glycerol and d fatty acid (s) and a mixture of glycerol mono-, di- and tri-esters of fatty acids, preferably chosen from glycerol and behenic triester and a mixture of mono-, di- and tri -esters of glycerol and behenic acid, the better the tribehenine. 6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least 5.0% by weight, preferably at least 6.0% by weight, especially at least 7.0% by weight, in particular 6.0% 35.0% by weight, preferably 7.0% to 30.0%, or even 8.0% to 28.0% by total weight of polyol ester (s) and acid (s) fat (1) relative to the total weight of said composition. 7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the fatty acid (s) (2) is (are) chosen from linear fatty acids and saturated fatty acids and their mixtures and preferably among linear and saturated fatty acids. 8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the fatty acid (s) (2) is (are) chosen from stearic acid, palmitic acid, and mixtures thereof, and preferably comprises at least stearic acid. 9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least 3.0% by weight, in particular from 3.5% to 20.0% by weight, preferably from 4.0% to 20.0% by weight. weight, better from 4.5% to 15.0% by weight, even better from 5.0% to 15.0% by total weight of fatty acid (2), in particular stearic acid, relative to the weight total of said composition. 10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the organic base (s) (3) is (are) chosen from triethanolamine, aminomethyl propanol and / or aminomethylpropanediol, and preferably comprises aminomethylpropanediol. 11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least 0.1% by weight, better still at least 0.15% by weight of organic base (3), in particular from 0.2% to 3.0% by weight. , preferably from 0.3% to 2.0% by total weight of organic base (s) (3), in particular of aminomethylpropanediol, relative to the total weight of the composition. 12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one fatty alcohol (4) chosen from cetyl alcohol (Ci6), stearic alcohol (Cis) and their mixtures and preferably is a mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearic alcohol. 13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least from 1.0% to 20.0%, preferably from 2.0 to 15.0% by weight and even more particularly from 3.0 to 10, 0% by weight of fatty alcohol (s) (4) relative to the total weight of the composition 14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the semi-crystalline polymer (s) (5) is (are) derived from a monomer with a chosen crystallizable chain (s) among the C10 to C30 saturated alkyl (meth) acrylates and more particularly from the poly (stearyl acrylate), the poly (behenyl acrylate) and their mixtures. 15. Composition according to the preceding claim, in which the semi-crystalline polymer (s) (5) is at least one poly (behenyl acrylate). 16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least 2.0% by weight and preferably from 3.0% to 20.0% by weight, better still from 4.0% to 15.0% by weight, or even 5.0% to 15.0% by total weight of semi-crystalline polymer (s) (5) relative to the total weight of the composition. 17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, the solids content of which is at least 42.0% by weight, preferably at least 44.0% by weight, or even from 45.0% to 60, 0% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. 18. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least 30% by weight, better still at least 40% by weight, or even a content of 50% to 60% by weight of water (6) relative to the total weight. of said composition. 19. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising less than 5.0% by weight, preferably less than 2.0% by weight of volatile oil (s) relative to the total weight of the composition. , even better, the composition is devoid of volatile oils. 20. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising less than 5.0%, preferably less than 2.0% by weight of nonionic surfactants of HLB, measured at 25 ° C, greater than or equal to 7, by relative to the total weight of the composition, even better the composition is devoid of nonionic surfactants of HLB, measured at 25 ° C., greater than or equal to 7. 21. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one hydrophilic polymer (poly) vinylpyrrolidone. 22. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one pulverulent coloring matter, preferably of the pigment type, for example metal oxides. 23. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising from 2.0% to 25.0% by weight, preferably from 3.0% to 20.0% by weight, more particularly from 4.0% 15.0% by total weight of coloring matter relative to the total weight of said composition. 24. A particularly cosmetic method for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, in particular the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows, comprising at least one step consisting in applying to said keratin materials, in particular the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows, a composition according to any one of claims 1 to