FR3100131A1 - Cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibers - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibers The subject of the present invention is a composition, preferably cosmetic, in particular for coating keratin fibers such as the eyelashes, comprising: an aqueous phase, a lamellar phase Lβ formed by a surfactant system structuring the phase aqueous, said surfactant system being present in a content greater than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and said surfactant system comprising at least 5% by weight relative to the total weight of composition of a non-surfactant ionic HLB at 25 ° C greater than or equal to 8, and at least 5% by weight relative to the total weight of composition of a nonionic HLB surfactant at 25 ° C less than 8, at least 3% by weight per relative to the total weight of composition of a hydrotropic solvent chosen from the solvents of formula (I), and at least one direct acid dye compatible with application around the eyes, chosen from the necks lamps with an anthraquinone, azine, azo, polymethine, triarylmethane or xanthene nucleus, and dyes comprising at least one –NO2 group. Figure for abstract: none

Description

Cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibers

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibres, and in particular the eyelashes or eyebrows. In particular, said cosmetic composition is a composition for making up, and optionally for caring for the eyelashes. The present invention also relates to a process for coating keratin fibres, in particular a process for making up and optionally caring for the eyelashes. The present invention also relates to particular uses.

The composition used may in particular be in the form of a product for the eyelashes such as a mascara, or a product for the eyebrows. More preferably, the invention relates to a mascara. "Mascara" means a composition intended to be applied to the eyelashes: it may be an eyelash makeup composition, an eyelash makeup base (also called a base coat), a composition to be applied on a mascara, also called a top-coat, or even a cosmetic treatment composition for the eyelashes. The mascara is more particularly intended for the eyelashes of human beings.

Mascaras are notably prepared according to two types of formulation: aqueous mascaras known as cream mascaras, in the form of a dispersion of waxes in water; anhydrous or low-water-content mascaras, referred to as waterproof mascaras, in the form of dispersions of waxes in organic solvents.

The present application relates more specifically to so-called aqueous mascaras. The compositions for coating the keratin fibers of such a type of mascara generally consist of at least one fatty phase dispersed in an aqueous liquid phase by means of an emulsifying system.

Mascara users appreciate this product for its ability to intensify the look by strengthening the individual diameter of the eyelashes and intensifying their color, in particular that of their tip which is transparent. This last characteristic particularly makes it possible to give an impression of elongation of the eyelash.

However, although these products are appreciated for their performance and the immediacy of their effects, there is a need to improve their durability, in particular with regard to the lengthening of eyelashes.

To do this, it was considered to color the eyelashes permanently or semi-permanently using direct dyes (this is the case, for example, with the Volume Colorist product from Rimmel). However, these products only color the eyelashes very slightly. However, among all the keratinous fibres, the eyelashes, like the eyebrows, have the characteristic of being very slightly porous and therefore of being very insensitive to the penetration of organic molecules, in particular dyes. It appears that the results are generally considered unsatisfactory in terms of lengthening the eyelash over time.

Application EP0962216 (Kao) describes hair coloring compositions, comprising an acid dye, propylene carbonate and/or benzyloxyethanol and/or benzyl alcohol. However, such compositions are suitable for application to the hair, and are not suitable for application to the eyelashes or the eyebrows. Indeed, they are difficult to apply, their wettability is not optimal and they do not add volume like a mascara.

There is thus a need for a composition for coating keratinous fibres, preferably a mascara, conferring an immediate volumizing effect and residual coloring of the eyelash and/or eyebrow, and in particular as regards the tip of the eyelash.

Consequently, the subject of the present invention is a composition, preferably cosmetic, in particular for coating keratin fibers such as the eyelashes, comprising:

- an aqueous phase,

- a lamellar phase Lβ formed by a surfactant system structuring the aqueous phase, said surfactant system being present in a content greater than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and said surfactant system comprising at least 5% by weight relative to the total composition weight of a nonionic surfactant with an HLB at 25°C greater than or equal to 8, and at least 5% by weight relative to the total composition weight of a nonionic surfactant with an HLB at 25 °C below 8,

- at least 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of a hydrotropic solvent chosen from the solvents of formula (I):

(I)

where R1 represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-4 alkyl group, and

- at least one direct acid dye compatible with application around the eyes, chosen from dyes having an anthraquinone, azine, azo, polymethine, triarylmethane or xanthene nucleus, and dyes comprising at least one –NO2 group.

Surprisingly and unexpectedly, the inventors have succeeded in formulating such compositions, in particular suitable for coating keratin fibers such as the eyelashes, in particular a mascara composition, which very significantly improve the rise of direct acid dyes in the eyelash and/ or the eyebrow. The combination of a hydrotropic solvent of formula (I) and a non-ionic lamellar phase provides an immediate volume result and persistent coloring of the eyelash and/or eyebrow after make-up removal, and in particular at the tip of the eyelash.

The present invention also relates, according to a second aspect, to an assembly or kit for coating keratin fibers comprising:

- at least one cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibers as described above, and

- at least one applicator of the composition, said applicator comprising means, where appropriate in relief, configured to come into engagement with said keratin fibres, such as the eyelashes or the eyebrows, in order to smooth and/or separate the eyelashes or the eyebrows. Such reliefs may include teeth, hairs or the like.

The present invention also relates, according to a third aspect, to a set, or kit, for packaging and applying a composition for coating keratin fibers comprising:

- a conditioning device comprising said cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibers as previously described, and

- an applicator of said composition.

Said applicator may be secured to a gripping member forming a cover for said packaging device. In other words, said applicator can be mounted in a removable position on said device between a closed position and a position disengaged from an opening for dispensing the device for packaging said composition.

A subject of the present invention is also a process for coating keratin fibers comprising the application to said keratin fibers of a composition according to the invention.

The composition according to the present invention is now described in detail.

The composition according to the invention can be rinsed out or left on. Preferably, it is not rinsed out.

Aqueous phase

The composition according to the invention comprises an aqueous phase, which can form a continuous phase of the composition.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a continuous aqueous phase. By “continuous” aqueous phase composition, it is meant that the composition has a conductivity, measured at 25° C., greater than 23 μS/cm (microSiemens/cm), the conductivity being measured for example using a conductivity meter MPC227 from Mettler Toledo and an Inlab730 conductivity measuring cell. The measurement cell is immersed in the composition, so as to eliminate the air bubbles liable to form between the two electrodes of the cell. The conductivity reading is taken as soon as the conductivity meter value has stabilized. An average is calculated over at least three successive measurements.

The aqueous phase includes water. It can also comprise at least one water-soluble solvent.

By “water-soluble solvent”, is meant in the present invention a compound that is liquid at room temperature and miscible with water.

The water-soluble solvents that can be used in the compositions according to the invention can also be volatile.

Among the water-soluble solvents which can be used in the compositions in accordance with the invention, mention may in particular be made of lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethanol and isopropanol, glycols having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms. carbon such as propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol and dipropylene glycol.

The water is preferably present in the composition according to the present application in a content ranging from 30 to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 40 to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 40 to 55% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The aqueous phase (water and optionally the water-miscible solvent) is preferably present in the composition according to the present application in a content ranging from 30 to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 40 to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 45 to 55% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. This aqueous phase content includes not only the water deliberately added to the composition, but also the water possibly brought in by other ingredients.

Surfactant system

A composition in accordance with the invention comprises a surfactant system forming an Lβ lamellar phase in the aqueous phase. This surfactant system comprises at least two nonionic surfactants, such that the composition comprises at least 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of nonionic surfactant of HLB at 25° C. greater than or equal to 8, and at least 5 % by weight relative to the total weight of nonionic surfactant composition of HLB at 25° C. less than 8.

This surfactant system structuring the aqueous phase into an Lβ lamellar phase is present in a content greater than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 15 to 40% by weight, better still from 16 to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In other words, the surfactant system comprises a total content of surfactant(s) greater than or equal to 15% by weight, preferably from 15 to 40% by weight, better still from 16 to 35% by weight relative to the total weight. of composition.

The surfactant system comprises at least 5% by weight relative to the total composition weight of a nonionic surfactant with an HLB at 25° C. greater than or equal to 8, and at least 5% by weight relative to the total composition weight of a nonionic surfactant with an HLB at 25°C of less than 8.

Preferably, the surfactant system consists solely of one or more nonionic surfactant(s). Thus, preferably, the surfactant system contains less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, of anionic surfactant, of zwitterionic surfactant and / or cationic surfactant.

The surfactant system comprises at least one nonionic surfactant with an HLB at 25°C greater than or equal to 8, preferably greater than or equal to 10. The surfactant system also comprises at least one nonionic surfactant with an HLB at 25°C less than 8 .

Preferably, the surfactant system comprises at least one nonionic surfactant with an HLB at 25° C. greater than or equal to 10; and at least one surfactant with an HLB at 25°C of less than 8.

The HLB value (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) according to GRIFFIN is defined in J. Soc. cosm. Chem. 1954 (volume 5), pages 249-256. Reference may be made to the document “Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, KIRK-OTHMER”, volume 22, p. 333-432, ^3rd edition, 1979, WILEY, for the definition of the properties and functions of surfactants, in particular p. 347-377 of this reference.

The surfactants which constitute the surfactant system according to the invention can be chosen from:

- esters and ethers of (poly)oxyalkylenated or non-(poly)oxyalkylenated monosaccharides, including (poly)oxyalkylenated sorbitol ethers,

- (poly)oxyalkylenated glycerol ethers,

- (poly)oxyalkylenated or non-(poly)oxyalkylenated polyol esters. Esters of (poly)oxyalkylenated polyols are preferred, in particular (poly)oxyalkylenated polyol ester, (poly)oxyalkylenated glycerol, (poly)oxyalkylenated sorbitol or (poly)oxyalkylenated polyethylene glycol, and

- (poly)oxyalkylenated or non-(poly)oxyalkylenated alcohols. (Poly)oxyalkylenated alcohols are preferred. Preferred alcohols are C8-24 fatty alcohol ethers or polyethylene glycol ethers having 1 to 200 and preferably 2 to 100 ethylene glycol units. Fatty alcohols are also a possible alternative, for example C _16-24 fatty alcohols comprising a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain, preferably primary fatty alcohols which have a saturated linear chain, such as in particular stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the surfactant system comprises a nonionic surfactant of the following general formula (II):

(II)

in which :

- ALK1 is a C7-23, preferably C11-21 and more preferably C15-19 alkyl group,

- a and b are integers between 0 and 100, a and b are preferably equal to 0,

- c is an integer between 1 and 100, particularly between 1 and 3 and preferably equal to 1,

- Z is a group substituted or terminated by a hydroxyl group:

- Z is preferably an oxyethylenated group (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _q or (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _q in which q is an integer greater than or equal to 1. Preferably the (poly)oxyalkylenated group is a polyethylene glycol or chosen from polyglycerols,

- Z is preferably chosen from formulas (G) and (H):

(G)

Formula in which:

- ALK2, identical or different, represent a C1-6 alkylene group, particularly C1-4, preferably ethylene,

- s, t and u are integers between 0 and 100, it being understood that s+t+u is not equal to 0 and is preferably between 1 and 100.

(M)

And

(M)

and preferably

(M)

Formulas in which:

- ALK2, identical or different, represents an alkylene group in C1-6, particularly in C1-4 and preferentially ethylene.

- u represents an integer different from 0 and preferably between 1 and 200.

Preferably, the surfactant system comprises a nonionic surfactant of the following general formula (III):

(III)

in which

- ALK3 is a C8-24, preferably C12-22 and more preferably C16-18 alkyl group.

- v is an integer between 1 and 200, better between 2 and 200.

Preferably, the nonionic surfactant with an HLB at 25° C. of less than 8 is chosen from (poly)oxyalkylenated alcohols, preferably oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylene alcohols having from 1 to 15 ethylene glycol and/or propylene glycol units, preferably ethoxylated C8-24 fatty alcohols, in particular _C16-24 , such as ethoxylated stearyl alcohol comprising 2 oxyethylene units (INCI name: steareth-2) such as Brij 72 from Uniqema.

Preferably, the nonionic surfactant with an HLB at 25°C greater than or equal to 8 is chosen from:

- fatty acid esters (in particular of C8-C24 acid, and preferably C16-C22 acid) and oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylene glycerol ethers (which may contain from 1 to 150 oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylene groups) , such as PEG-200 glyceryl monostearate sold under the name Simulsol 220™ by the company SEPPIC; polyethoxylated glyceryl stearate containing 30 ethylene oxide groups such as the product TAGAT S sold by the company GOLDSCHMIDT, polyethoxylated glyceryl oleate containing 30 ethylene oxide groups such as the product TAGAT O sold by the company GOLDSCHMIDT , polyethoxylated glyceryl cocoate with 30 ethylene oxide groups such as the product VARIONIC LI 13 sold by the company SHEREX or polyethoxylated glyceryl isostearate with 30 ethylene oxide groups such as the product TAGAT L sold by the GOLDSCHMIDT company; And

- oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylene ethers (which may contain from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene groups) of fatty alcohols (in particular C8-C24 alcohol, and preferably C12-C18 alcohol) such as oxyethylenated ether stearyl alcohol with 20 oxyethylenated groups (CTFA name "Steareth-20") such as BRIJ 78 marketed by the company UNIQUEMA, the oxyethylenated ether of cetearyl alcohol with 30 oxyethylenated groups (CTFA name "Ceteareth-30" ) and the oxyethylenated ether of the mixture of C12-C15 fatty alcohols containing 7 oxyethylenated groups (CTFA name “C12-15 Pareth-7” marketed under the name NEODOL 25-7 by SHELL CHEMICALS.

According to the invention, the nonionic lamellar phase results from the combination of a nonionic surfactant with an HLB at 25°C greater than or equal to 8, with a nonionic surfactant with an HLB at 25°C less than 8. Thus, the surfactant system according to the invention comprises at least one nonionic surfactant with an HLB at 25°C greater than or equal to 8, and at least one nonionic surfactant with an HLB at 25°C less than 8.

According to a preferred embodiment, the surfactant system comprises a mixture of at least two (poly)oxyalkylenated alcohols, preferably of at least two C8-24 fatty alcohol ethers or of at least two polyethylene glycol ethers having 2 to 20 ethylene glycol units.

Lamellar phase Lβ

The surfactant system in accordance with the invention organizes the aqueous phase in the form of an Lβ lamellar phase, or Lβ paracrystalline phase, or gel lamellar phase.

This composition is stable at room temperature of 25°C. Preferably, it has a viscosity ranging from 5 to 50 Pa.s, measured at an ambient temperature of 25° C. using a Rhéomat RM100®.

By gel lamellar phase or Lβ paracrystalline phase is meant a phase in which the molecules of surfactants and/or more generally of amphiphilic compounds are organized in the form of bimolecular layers spaced apart by aqueous sheets. Within the bimolecular layers, the molecules are distributed in a hexagonal geometry, their hydrocarbon chains are in a crystalline state and are oriented perpendicular to the plane of the bimolecular layers but have no specific orientation with respect to each other in the plane. of these layers.

Lβ paracrystalline phases are metastable phases in which the fatty chains are in the solid state and are randomly arranged relative to each other, unlike fluid micellar and lamellar (Lα) paracrystalline phases in which the fatty chains are in the liquid state, and unlike the crystalline phases in which the fatty chains are in the solid state and oriented in an orderly manner with respect to each other.

To identify the gel lamellar phase or Lβ paracrystalline phase of the surfactant system present in the composition of the invention, various techniques can be used, and in particular the X-ray diffraction technique.

Diffraction of X-rays at wide angles (Wide angle X-ray Scattering - WAXS)

X-ray patterns were recorded by a Mar345 image plate detector (Maresearch, Norderstedt, Germany), mounted on an FR591 rotating anode X-ray generator (Bruker, Courtaboeuf, France), operated at 50 kV and at 50mA. Monochromatic CuKα radiation (λ = 1.541 Å) was focused with a focal spot of 350 μm at 320 mm by double reflection on a multilayer Montel mirror of elliptical cross-section (Incoatec, Geesthacht, Germany). The beam was defined under vacuum by four motorized carbon-tungsten slits (JJ-Xray, Roskilde, Denmark) positioned in front of the mirror (500 µm). Four additional shield slits were placed at the focal point at a slit separation distance of 220 mm. The flux downstream of the mica exit windows was 3 x 10 ⁸ photons/s. A 2mm diameter circular wire beam stopper was placed in air 150mm downstream of the sample and the detector was positioned 360mm away. X-ray patterns were therefore recorded for a reciprocal spacing range q = 4π*sin θ/λ of 0.03-1.8 Å ^-1 , where θ is the diffraction angle. Recurrent distances d = 2π/q should be between 200 Å and 3.5 Å. Samples were placed in 1.2-1.3 mm glass capillaries (Glas W. Müller, Germany) and introduced into a home-made capillary holder, which can hold up to 20 capillaries at a temperature controlled.

hydrotropic solvent

A composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least 3% of a hydrotropic solvent chosen from the solvents of formula (I):

(I)

where R1 represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-4 alkyl group.

In particular the solvent is ethylene carbonate or propylene carbonate, preferably propylene carbonate.

The hydrotropic solvent is present in a total content greater than or equal to 3% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 5%, in particular from 5 to 35% by weight, better still from 8 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of composition.

Acid Direct Dye

A composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least one direct acid dye compatible with an application around the eyes.

This direct acid dye is chosen from dyes having an anthraquinone, azine, azo, polymethine, triarylmethane or xanthene nucleus, and dyes comprising at least one –NO2 group.

By "acid direct dye" is meant an acid dye which is present in free form in the composition. In particular, it is not supported by a support, such as alumina. Thus, preferably, the acid direct dye is dissolved in the aqueous phase.

In particular, the acid direct dye is different from a lacquer.

In addition, it is compatible with an application around/on the eyes.

The acid direct dye is advantageously present in a total content of from 0.1 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

It is chosen from dyes having an anthraquinone, azine, azo, polymethine, triarylmethane or xanthene nucleus, and dyes comprising at least one –NO2 group.

Dyes having an anthraquinone nucleus are preferably those of the following formulas:

CI60730 (Acid Violet 43)

CI61570 (Acid Green 25)

CI61585 (Acid Blue 80)

CI62045 (Acid Blue 62)

The dye having an azine nucleus is preferably that of the following formula:

CI50325 (Acid Violet 50)

Dyes having an azo ring are preferably those of the following formulas:

CI14700 (FD&C Red 4)

CI14720 (Acid Red 14)

CI15620 (Acid Red 88)

CI15850 (D&C Red 7)

CI16035 (FD&C Red 40)

CI16185 (Acid Red 27)

CI16255 (Acid Red 18)

CI16290 (Acid Red 41)

CI17200 (Acid Red 33)

CI18050 (Acid Red 1)

CI18130 (Acid Red 155)

CI18736 (Acid Red 180)

CI24790 (Acid Red 163)

CI27290 (Acid Red 73)

CI14270 (Acid Orange 6)

CI15510 (Acid Orange 7)

CI15980 (Food Orange 2)

CI15985 (Food Yellow 3)

CI16230 (Acid Orange 10)

CI20170 (Acid Orange 24)

CI20470 (Acid Black 1)

CI27755 (Food Black No. 2)

CI28440 (Food Black 1)

CI50420 (Acid Black 2)

CI13015 (Acid Yellow 9)

CI18820 (Acid Yellow 11)

CI18965 (Acid Yellow 17)

CI19140 (Acid Yellow 23)

The dye having a polymethine nucleus is preferably that of the following formula:

(betanin)

Dyes having a triarylmethane nucleus are preferably those of the following formulas:

(bromocresol green)

CI42053 (Food Green 3)

CI42100 (Acid Green 9)

CI42170 (Acid Green 22)

CI44090 (Acid Green 50)

(bromothylol blue)

CI42045 (Acid Blue 1)

CI42080 (Acid Blue 7)

CI42090 (Acid Blue 9)

CI42090 (FDC Blue No. 1)

CI42735 (Acid Blue 104)

Dyes having a xanthene nucleus are preferably those of the following formulas:

CI45190 (Acid Violet 9)

CI45100 (Acid Red 52)

45220 (Acid Red 50)

CI45380 (Acid Red 87)

CI45405 (Acid Red 98)

CI45410 (Acid Red 92)

CI45425 (Acid Red 95)

CI45430 (Acid Red 51)

CI45370 (Acid Orange 11)

CI45396 (Solvent Orange 16)

CI45350 (Acid Yellow 73)

CI45340 (Acid Yellow 73 Fluorescein)

Finally, the colorant comprises at least one –NO2 group is preferably that of the following formula:

CI10316 (Acid Yellow 1)

Preferably, the dye is chosen from dyes having an anthraquinone, azo, triarylmethane or xanthene nucleus.

Preferably, the colorant is selected from:

CI60730 (Acid Violet 43)

CI42053 (Food Green 3)

CI61570 (Acid Green 25)

CI14700 (FD&C Red 4)

CI15850 (D&C Red 7)

CI16035 (FD&C Red 40)

CI45380 (Acid Red 87)

CI45410 (Acid Red 92)

CI15510 (Acid Orange 7)

CI17200 (Acid Red 33)

CI15985 (Food Yellow 3)

CI19140 (Acid Yellow 23)

CI42045 (Acid Blue 1)

And

CI42090 (Acid Blue 9).

Preferably, the dye is chosen from dyes having an anthraquinone, azo or triarylmethane nucleus.

More preferably, such dyes are described above.

Preferably, the colorant is selected from:

CI60730 (Acid Violet 43)

CI61570 (Acid Green 25)

CI14700 (FD&C Red 4)

CI15850 (D&C Red 7)

CI16035 (FD&C Red 40)

CI17200 (Acid Red 33)

CI15985 (Food Yellow 3)

CI19140 (Acid Yellow 23)

And

CI42090 (Acid Blue 9).

In addition to the compounds described above, the composition according to the invention may also comprise the various ingredients as described below.

Film-forming polymer

The composition can also comprise at least one film-forming polymer.

This polymer can be present as such, in particular this is the case of water-soluble (water-soluble) film-forming polymers; or else present in the form of an aqueous dispersion of particles (latex or pseudo latex).

Typically, in the case of latexes or pseudo latexes, the size of the particles has an average diameter less than or equal to 5 μm, preferentially less than or equal to 2 μm, and even more preferentially less than 1 μm. The particles can be electronically uncharged, or negatively or positively charged.

Preferably, in the case of latexes or pseudo-latexes, the film-forming polymer is chosen from free-radical or polycondensed synthetic polymers, polymers of natural origin and mixtures thereof. In general, these polymers are random polymers, block copolymers of the AB or ABA or ABCD type, etc. , multiblock copolymers or graft polymers.

Preferably, the film-forming polymer is chosen from aqueous dispersions of acrylic polymers, polyurethanes, sulfopolyesters, vinyls, polyvinyl acetates, vinylpyrrolidones and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the film-forming polymer is chosen from acrylic polymers and their derivatives. Among the acrylic polymers, styrene-acrylic polymers are preferred, in particular the styrene/acrylate/ammonium methacrylate copolymer (Syntran 5760 CG from Interpolymer), and among the polyurethane polymers, the polyester-polyurethane polymers and their derivatives are preferred.

If the film-forming polymer is of natural origin, it is chosen from shellac resin, sandarc gum, dammar resins, elemi gums, copal resins, water-insoluble cellulosic polymers such as nitrocellulose , methylcellulose and modified cellulose esters, in particular carboxyalkyl cellulose esters.

As for the water-soluble (water-soluble) film-forming polymers, they are preferably chosen from:

- proteins of plant origin such as wheat or soy proteins;

- cellulosic polymers such as hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, quaternized cellulose derivatives;

- vinyl polymers such as polyvinylpyrrolidones (Luviskol K30);

- polyvinyl alcohols;

- gum arabic, guar gum, xanthan derivatives, karaya gum, acacia gum;

- alginates and carrageenans.

The film-forming polymer is preferably present in a content of active material greater than or equal to 1% by weight, preferably equal to or greater than 1.2% by weight, and more preferably between 1% and 20% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

Gelling agent

The composition can also comprise at least one gelling agent. This gelling agent is preferably hydrophilic.

The hydrophilic gelling agent can be selected from:

- Homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acids or their salt or their esters;

- Copolymers of acrylic acids and acrylamide in their sodium salt form;

- Polyhydroxycarboxylic acids in the form of sodium salts;

- Polyacrylic acid/alkyl acrylate copolymers;

- AMPS (polyacrylamidomethylpropane sulfonic acid partially neutralized by ammonia and highly cross-linked);

- AMPS/acrylamide copolymers;

- AMPS/polyoxyethylene alkyl methacrylate copolymers, cross-linked or not; And

- Associative polymers and in particular associative polyurethanes.

Preferably, the hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from AMPS, AMPS/acrylamide copolymers and mixtures thereof.

The gelling agent, in particular hydrophilic, may be present in a content of from 0.1% to 5% by weight and more preferably from 0.5% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Raincoats)

A composition according to the invention may comprise at least one wax.

More specifically, a composition according to the invention advantageously comprises less than 25% by weight of wax(es), in particular less than 20% by weight of wax(es), relative to the total weight of the composition.

The wax(es) can be present in a content of 5% to 25% by weight and more preferably from 10% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The wax(es) is (are) generally a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25°C), with a reversible solid/liquid state change, having a melting point greater than or equal to at 30°C, possibly up to 200°C and in particular up to 120°C.

Within the meaning of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in standard ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "DSC Q2000" by the company TA Instruments.

Preferably, the waxes have an enthalpy of fusion ΔHf greater than or equal to 70 J/g.

The measurement protocol is as follows:

A sample of 5 mg of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to an initial rise in temperature ranging from -20°C to 120°C, at the heating rate of
10°C/minute, then is cooled from 120°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of
10°C/minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 120°C at a heating rate of 5°C/minute. During the second temperature rise, the following parameters are measured:

- the melting point (T _f ) of the wax, as previously mentioned corresponding to the temperature of the most endothermic peak of the melting curve observed, representing the variation of the difference in power absorbed as a function of temperature,

- ∆Hf: the melting enthalpy of the wax corresponding to the integral of the entire melting curve obtained. This wax melting enthalpy is the amount of energy required to change the compound from solid to liquid state. It is expressed in J/g.

The wax(es) may be hydrocarbon(s), fluorinated(s) and/or silicone(s) and be of plant, mineral, animal and/or synthetic origin.

A composition in accordance with the invention may comprise at least one wax chosen from the group consisting of polar waxes, apolar waxes and their mixture.

A composition in accordance with the invention advantageously comprises at least one polar wax.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition advantageously comprises at least one wax.

The waxes are in particular those described in the document Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry 2015, Wiley-VCH Verlag GmbH & Co. KGaA,

Such waxes can in particular be natural but also synthetic.

By “natural” wax is meant any wax that pre-exists in nature or that can be transformed, extracted or purified from natural compounds that exist in nature.

Among natural waxes, mention may be made in particular of so-called fossil waxes, including those of petroleum origin such as ozocerite, pyropissite, macrocrystalline waxes, also called paraffins – including raw waxes or slack wax, slack wax raffinates, deoiled slack wax, soft waxes, semi-refined waxes, filtered waxes, refined waxes – and microcrystalline waxes called microwaxes including slack wax from "bright stock". Fossil waxes still contain lignite, also known as montan wax, or peat wax.

As natural waxes other than fossil waxes, mention may be made of animal and vegetable waxes.

By way of example of vegetable waxes, mention may be made of carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricuri wax, sugar cane wax, jojoba wax, Trithrinax campestris wax, raffia wax , alfalfa wax, wax extracted from Douglas fir, sisal wax, linseed wax, cotton wax, Batavia dammar wax, cereal wax, tea wax, coffee wax , rice wax, palm wax, Japanese wax, their mixtures and their derivatives.

By way of example of animal waxes, mention may be made of beeswax, Ghedda wax, shellac, Chinese wax, lanolin also called wool wax, their mixtures and their derivatives.

By "synthetic" wax is meant waxes whose synthesis requires one or more chemical reactions conducted by man.

Among synthetic waxes, we can distinguish between semi-synthetic waxes and totally synthetic waxes. The synthetic waxes can be waxes obtained by a Fischer-Tropsch process, consisting for example of paraffins with a number of carbon atoms ranging from 20 to 50 or polyolefin waxes, for example homo- or copolymers of ethylene, propene or butene, or even longer chain α-olefins. The latter can be obtained by thermomechanical degradation of plastic polyethylene, by the Ziegler process, by high-pressure processes, or even via processes catalyzed by metallocene species. These waxes can be crystallizable, partially crystallizable or amorphous. The aforementioned synthetic waxes are generally apolar and can be chemically treated to obtain polar waxes, for example by one or more of the following reactions: air oxidation, grafting, esterification, neutralization with metallic soaps, amidification, direct copolymerizations or addition reactions.

Oil

The compositions according to the invention may comprise at least one oil. The oil can be chosen from non-volatile oils, volatile oils, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the composition comprises less than 10% by weight of oil, preferably less than 5% by weight of oil. Preferably, the composition comprises less than 10% by weight, preferably less than 5% by weight, preferably is free of any volatile oil.

Non-volatile oil

By "oil" is meant a fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.

By “non-volatile oil”, is meant an oil remaining on the skin or the keratin fiber at ambient temperature and pressure. More specifically, a non-volatile oil has an evaporation rate strictly lower than 0.01 mg/cm ² /min.

To measure this rate of evaporation, one introduces into a crystallizer, diameter 7 cm, placed on a balance located in a large enclosure of about 0.3m ³ regulated in temperature, at a temperature of 25°C, and in hygrometry, at 50% relative humidity, 15g of oil or oil mixture to be tested. The liquid is allowed to evaporate freely, without stirring it, providing ventilation by a fan (PAPST-MOTOREN, reference 8550 N, rotating at 2700 revolutions per minute) placed in a vertical position above the crystallizer containing said oil or said mixture, the blades being directed towards the crystallizer and at a distance of 20cm from the bottom of the crystallizer. The mass of oil remaining in the crystallizer is measured at regular intervals. The evaporation rates are expressed in mg of oil evaporated per unit area (cm ² ) and per unit time (minute).

Said at least one non-volatile oil can be chosen from hydrocarbon oils and silicone oils, and mixtures thereof, preferably from hydrocarbon oils.

The non-volatile hydrocarbon oils suitable for the present invention may in particular be chosen from:

- hydrocarbon oils of plant origin such as triglycerides consisting of esters of fatty acids and glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths varying from C4 to C28, the latter possibly being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated ; these oils are in particular wheat germ, sunflower, grapeseed, sesame, corn, apricot, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soybean oil, sweet almond, rapeseed, cotton, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, palm, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, sesame, squash, rapeseed, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, bankoulier, passionflower, muscat rose; or alternatively caprylic/capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by the company Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names of Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by the company Sasol;

- synthetic ethers having 10 to 40 carbon atoms;

- linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin other than the polymers according to the invention, such as petroleum jelly, polybutenes, polydecenes, squalane, and mixtures thereof;

- synthetic esters such as oils of formula R1COOR2 in which R1 represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain in particular branched containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms at provided that R1 + R2 is ≥ 10, such as Purcellin's oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12 to C15 alcohol benzoate, hexyl laurate , diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethyl-hexyl palmitate, isostearate isostearate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, di-isostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters

- fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature with a branched and/or unsaturated carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyl dodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol;

- higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and mixtures thereof;

- the non-volatile silicone oils which can be used in the composition in accordance with the invention may be non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, pendent and/or at the end of the silicone chain, groups each having 2 with 24 carbon atoms, phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates.

According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises less than 3% by weight of non-volatile oil(s) relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably is free thereof.

volatile oil

The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one volatile oil.

By "volatile oil" is meant an oil (or non-aqueous medium) capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. Volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil, liquid at room temperature. More specifically, a volatile oil has an evaporation rate of between 0.01 and 200 mg/cm ² /min, limits included.

This volatile oil can be hydrocarbon.

The volatile hydrocarbon-based oil can be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils having from 7 to 16 carbon atoms.

The composition according to the invention may contain one or more volatile branched alkane(s). "One or more volatile branched alkane(s)" means "one or more volatile branched alkane oil(s)".

As volatile hydrocarbon oil having from 7 to 16 carbon atoms, mention may in particular be made of branched C8-C16 alkanes such as C8-C16 iso-alkanes (also called isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane and for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopars or Permetyls, branched C8-C16 esters such as iso-hexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the hydrocarbon-based volatile oil having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms is chosen from isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane and mixtures thereof, and is in particular isododecane.

The composition according to the invention may contain one or more volatile linear alkane(s). "One or more volatile linear alkane(s)" means "one or more volatile linear alkane oil(s)".

A volatile linear alkane suitable for the invention is liquid at room temperature (about 25° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).

By "volatile linear alkane" suitable for the invention is meant a cosmetic linear alkane, capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature (25° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg, i.e. 101,325 Pa), liquid at room temperature, having in particular an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 15 mg/cm²/min, at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760mm Hg).

Linear alkanes, preferably of vegetable origin, comprising from 7 to 15 carbon atoms, in particular from 9 to 14 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 11 to 13 carbon atoms.

As an example of a linear alkane suitable for the invention, mention may be made of the alkanes described in the patent applications of the company Cognis WO 2007/068371, or WO2008/155059 (mixtures of distinct alkanes and differing from at minus one carbon). These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, themselves obtained from copra or palm oil.

By way of example of a linear alkane suitable for the invention, mention may be made of n-heptane (C7), n-octane (C8), n-nonane (C9), n-decane (C10), n-undecane (C11), n-dodecane (C12), n-tridecane (C13), n-tetradecane (C14), -pentadecane (C15), and mixtures thereof, and in particular the mixture of n -undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13) described in example 1 of application WO2008/155059 from Cognis. Mention may also be made of n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97, as well as their mixtures.

The linear alkane may be used alone or as a mixture of at least two distinct alkanes and differing from each other by a carbon number of at least 1, and in particular a mixture of at least two linear alkanes comprising from 10 to 14 carbon atoms which are distinct and differ from each other by a carbon number of at least 2, and in particular a mixture of volatile linear C11/C13 alkanes or a mixture of linear C12/C14 alkanes, in particular a mixture n- undecane/n-tridecane (such a mixture can be obtained according to example 1 or example 2 of WO 2008/155059).

As a variant or additionally, the composition produced can comprise at least one volatile silicone oil or solvent, compatible with cosmetic use.

By silicone oil is meant an oil containing at least one silicon atom, and in particular containing Si—O groups. According to one embodiment, said composition comprises less than 10% by weight of volatile silicone oil(s), relative to the total weight of the composition, better still less than 5% by weight, or even is free of oil volatile silicone.

As volatile silicone oil, mention may be made of cyclic polysiloxanes, linear polysiloxanes and mixtures thereof. As linear volatile polysiloxanes, mention may be made of hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, tetradecamethylhexasiloxane and hexadecamethylheptasiloxane. As volatile cyclic polysiloxanes, mention may be made of hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcylotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane.

A composition according to the invention is preferably free of volatile oil. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 10% by weight, preferably less than 5% by weight, preferably is free of any volatile hydrocarbon-based oil. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 10% by weight, preferably less than 5% by weight, preferably is free of isododecane.

Powdery dyestuffs

The compositions according to the invention may comprise at least one powdery dyestuff. The pulverulent dyestuffs can be chosen from pigments and nacres, preferably from pigments.

The pigments can be white or colored, mineral and/or organic, coated or not. Mention may be made, among the mineral pigments, of metal oxides, in particular titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium, zinc or cerium oxides, as well as iron, titanium or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue. Among the organic pigments, mention may be made of carbon black, D & C type pigments, and lakes based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum.

The nacres can be chosen from white pearlescent pigments such as mica covered with titanium or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with in particular ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

These pulverulent dyestuffs may be present in a content ranging from 0.01 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 3 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention contains less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, preferably is free of lacquer, in particular organic lacquer.

An organic lacquer is supported by an organic medium such as rosin or aluminum benzoate, for example. Among the organic lakes, mention may in particular be made of those known under the following names: D&C Red No. 2 Aluminum Lake, D&C Red No. 3 Aluminum Lake, D&C Red No. 4 Aluminum Lake, D&C Red No. 6 Aluminum Lake, D&C Red No. 6 Aluminum Lake, D&C Red No. 6 Aluminum Lake, D&C Red No. 6 Aluminum Lake, D&C Red No. Red #6 Barium lake, D&C Red #7 Aluminum lake, D&C Red #7 Barium lake, D&C Red #7 Calcium lake, D&C Red #9 Aluminum lake, D&C Red #9 Barium lake, D&C Red # ° 19 Aluminum lake, D&C Red #19 Barium lake, D&C Red #21 Aluminum lake, D&C Red #22 Aluminum lake, D&C Red #27 Aluminum lake, D&C Red #27 Barium lake, D&C Red #27 Calcium lake, D&C Red #28 Aluminum lake, D&C Red #31 Calcium lake, D&C Red #33 Aluminum lake, D&C Red #34 Calcium lake, D&C Red #40 Aluminum lake, D&C Blue #1 Aluminum lake , D&C Green #3 Aluminum lake, D&C Orange #4 Aluminum lake, D&C Orange #5 Zirconium lake, D&C Orange #10 Aluminum lake, D&C Orange #17 Barium lake, D&C Yellow #5 Zirconium lake, D&C Yellow #6 Aluminum lake, D&C Yellow #10 Aluminum lake, FD&C Blue #1 Aluminum lake, FD&C Red #4 Aluminum lake, FD&C Red #40 Aluminum lake, FD&C Yellow #5 Aluminum lake, FD&C Yellow # ° 6 Aluminum lake.

Expenses

The compositions in accordance with the invention may also comprise at least one filler.

The fillers can be chosen from those well known to those skilled in the art and commonly used in cosmetic compositions. The fillers can be mineral or organic, lamellar or spherical. Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, polyamide powders such as Nylon ^® marketed under the name Orgasol ^® by the company Atochem, poly-β-alanine and polyethylene, powders of tetrafluoroethylene polymers such as Teflon ^® , lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride, expanded polymeric hollow microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride/acrylonitrile such as those marketed under the name Expancel ^® by the company Nobel Industrie, acrylic powders such as those marketed under the name ^Polytrap® by Dow Corning, polymethyl methacrylate particles and silicone resin microbeads ( ^Tospearls® from Toshiba, for example), precipitated calcium carbonate, carbonate and magnesium hydro-carbonate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres (Silica Beads ^® from MAPRECOS), glass or ceramic microcapsules.

The fillers may be present in a content of less than or equal to 10% by weight, more preferably less than 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and even more preferably is free of filler.

Cosmetic active ingredients

The compositions in accordance with the invention may also comprise at least one cosmetic active ingredient.

As cosmetic active agents which can be used in the compositions in accordance with the invention, mention may in particular be made of antioxidants, preservatives, perfumes, neutralizers, emollients, coalescence agents, moisturizers, vitamins and filters, in particular sunscreens. , chelating agents, and mixtures thereof.

Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose the possible additional additives and/or their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or substantially not, altered by the addition envisaged.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention is not rinsed out. Advantageously, the composition is a makeup composition and in particular a mascara.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one pH agent. Preferably, the pH of the composition is set between 2 and 8, more particularly between 2.2 and 7 and even more particularly between 3 and 6.5. The pH is adjusted by means of a strong base, such as NaOH for example, or a weak one; or a strong or weak acid. Among the weak bases, mention may be made in particular of low molecular weight amines such as ammonia, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, 2-amino-methyl-propanol for example, or their salt such as ammonium acetate. The strong acid can be HCl for example, while the weak acid can be in particular a mono or polycarboxylic acid such as citric acid or lactic acid for example.

Dry extract

The composition according to the invention advantageously comprises a dry extract content greater than or equal to 40%, better still 42%, in particular 45%, or even 48%.

Within the meaning of the present invention, the “ dry extract content ” designates the content of non-volatile matter.

The amount of dry extract (abbreviated ES) of a composition according to the invention is measured using a commercial halogen desiccator "HALOGEN MOISTURE ANALYZER HR 73" from Mettler TOLEDO. The measurement is made on the basis of the weight loss of a sample dried by halogen heating and therefore represents the percentage of residual material once the water and volatile materials have evaporated.

This technique is fully described in the device documentation provided by Mettler TOLEDO.

The measurement protocol is as follows:

Approximately 2 g of the composition, hereinafter the sample, is spread on a metal dish which is introduced into the halogen desiccator mentioned above. The sample is then subjected to a temperature of 105°C until a constant weight is obtained. The Wet Mass of the sample, corresponding to its initial mass, and the Dry Mass of the sample, corresponding to its mass after halogen heating, are measured using a precision balance.

The experimental error related to the measurement is of the order of plus or minus 2%.

The Solids content is calculated as follows:

Together

The present invention also relates to an assembly or kit for coating keratin fibers comprising:

- at least one cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibers as described above, and

- at least one applicator of the composition, said applicator comprising means, where appropriate in relief, configured to come into engagement with said keratin fibres, such as the eyelashes or the eyebrows, in order to smooth and/or separate the eyelashes or the eyebrows. Such reliefs may include teeth, hairs or the like.

It also relates to a set, or kit, for packaging and applying a composition for coating keratin fibers comprising:

- a conditioning device comprising said cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibers as previously described, and

- an applicator of said composition.

An assembly for coating keratin fibers adapted to the invention may comprise an applicator configured to apply said cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibers, and where appropriate a conditioning device adapted to receive said composition.

Applicator

The applicator can comprise means making it possible to smooth and/or separate the keratin fibres, such as the eyelashes or the eyebrows, in particular in the form of teeth, hairs or other reliefs. The applicator allows in particular to avoid dripping on application.

The applicator is designed to apply the composition to the eyelashes or the eyebrows, and may comprise, for example, a brush or a comb.

The applicator can also be used for finishing the makeup, on a region of the eyelashes or eyebrows that has been made up or loaded with the composition.

The brush may comprise a twisted core and bristles caught between the turns of the core, or be made in another way.

The comb is for example made in one piece by molding plastic material.

In certain exemplary embodiments, the application element is mounted at the end of a rod, which can be flexible, which can contribute to improving the comfort on application.

Conditioning device

The conditioning device may comprise a container intended to house the composition for coating keratin fibers. This composition can then be taken from the container by immersing the applicator therein.

This applicator can be integral with a closure element of the container. This closure element can form a member for gripping the applicator. This gripping member can form a cover to be removably mounted on said container by any appropriate means such as by screwing, snap-fitting, fitting or otherwise. Such a container can therefore reversibly house said applicator.

This container may optionally be equipped with a wiper suitable for removing excess product taken up by the applicator.

It should be noted that according to another embodiment, the applicator can form a product container. In such a case, a container can for example be provided in the gripping member and an internal channel can internally connect this gripping member to the raised application elements.

Finally, it should be noted that the packaging and application assembly may be in the form of a kit, the applicator and the packaging device being able to be housed separately in the same packaging article.

A subject of the present invention is also a process for coating keratin fibers comprising the application to said keratin fibers of a composition according to the invention.

A method for applying the composition according to the invention to the eyelashes or eyebrows may also comprise the following steps:

- forming a deposit of the cosmetic composition on the eyelashes or the eyebrows,

- leave the deposit on the eyelashes or eyebrows, as the deposit may dry out.

Typically, after make-up removal, the tips of the eyelashes appear more colored.

The following examples are given by way of illustration of the present invention, and cannot limit its scope.

EXAMPLES

Example 1

I - Preparations of compositions:

Control mascara compositions (i.e. compositions 29 to 33) and mascara compositions in accordance with the invention (i.e. compositions 49 to 53) were prepared.

The formulations of the control mascara compositions (i.e. compositions 29 to 33) are given in Table 1. They each contain 10% water.

The formulations of the mascara compositions in accordance with the invention (i.e. compositions 49 to 53) are given in Table 2. They each contain 10% propylene carbonate (instead of 10% water).

For each composition, a nonionic lamellar phase is used. Its exact formulation is given in Table 1 below:

Ingredients Composition
according to the invention
(% in weight) Phase A CARNAUBA WAX
(SP 63 from STRAHL & PITSCH) 12.3 POLYMETHYLENE WAX
(Cirebelle 108 from Cirebelle) 5.5 GLYCERYL MONO-STEARATE
OXYETHYLENE (30 EO)
(TAGAT S by EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT) 4.4 Phase B STEARETH 2 (Brij 72 from Uniqema) 8.9 STEARETH 20 (Brij 78P from Uniqema) 8.9 Water 33 Stage C Water Qsp 100 Stage D Conservatives Q's

These compositions were prepared as follows:

i. Preparation of phase A

All the raw materials used are carefully weighed using a scale (precision 0.01g). In a 500mL pan with a double jacket with circulation of hot oil to control the temperature, the different waxes are melted. Heat to about 95-98°C. Once the melted waxes are homogenized by stirring with the Moritz, it is a rotor stator type stirring: it consists of a fixed part in which a second mobile part rotates at variable speed, this device is used to achieve emulsions because it allows very high shear.

When the waxes are melted and homogenized, the oxyethylenated glyceryl monostearate (30 EO) is then added, and the mixture is emulsified for 10 minutes.

ii. Preparation of phase B

The ingredients are weighed, the steareth-2 and -20 in accordance with the invention are melted at 80°C, then the water previously heated in an electric kettle at 95°C and the pigments are added.

iii. Mixing of phases B and A

Phase A is poured with phase B and emulsified for 5 minutes at 95° C. under Moritz.

iv. Preparation of phase C

The water from phase C is poured into the A+B mixture in a bath thermostated at 95°C.

v. Add Phase D

Phase D is poured into the mixture of phase A+B+C when the temperature of the mixture is less than or equal to 45°C.

vi. End of wording

The mascara thus obtained is transferred to a closed jar to prevent it from drying on contact with air, it is then necessary to wait 24 hours to check the homogeneity of the formula.

This formula then serves as the basis for adding dye.

29 (Reference) 30 (Reference) 31 (Reference) 32 (Reference) 33 (Reference) Water 10.00% 10.00% 10.00% 10.00% 10.00% Propylene carbonate - - - - - Nonionic lamellar phase 88.00% 89.23% 89.74% 88.50% 79.19% ACID BLUE 9 (CI 42090) - - - - - ACID GREEN 25 (CI 61570) - - - - - FOOD YELLOW 3 (CI 15985) 2.00% - - - - D&C Red 7 (CI 15850) - 0.77% - - - ACID RED 33 (CI 17200) - - 0.26% - - FD&C RED 4 (CI 14700) - - - 2.00% - FD&C RED 40 (CI 16035) - - - - 10.81% ACID VIOLET 43 (CI 60730) - - - - - Acid YELLOW 23 (CI 19140) - - - - - measured pH 5.54 6.51 5.52 5.63 5.59

49 50 51 52 53 Water - - - - - Propylene carbonate 10.00% 10.00% 10.00% 10.00% 10.00% Nonionic lamellar phase 88.00% 89.23% 89.74% 88.50% 79.19% ACID BLUE 9 (CI 42090) - - - - - ACID GREEN 25 (CI 61570) - - - - - Food YELLOW 3 (CI 15985) 2.00% - - - - D&C Red 7 (CI 15850) - 0.77% - - - ACID RED 33 (CI 17200) - - 0.26% - - FD&C RED 4 (CI 14700) - - - 2.00% - FD&C RED 40 (CI 16035) - - - - 10.81% ACID VIOLET 43 (CI 60730) - - - - - Acid YELLOW 23 (CI 19140) - - - - - measured pH 5.79 6.35 5.78 5.83 5.83

II - Composition Ratings:

Compositions 29 to 33, and 49 to 53, are applied in a standardized manner (15 passes) using a mascara brush (Hypnôse mascara from Lancôme), wrung out by a wringer (Hypnôse wringer from Lancôme) on test specimens of false eyelashes made up of yak hair (because these hairs are keratin fibers similar in porosity to natural human keratin fibers such as the eyelash or the eyebrow).

After application, the colored specimens are left to dry. Once completely dry, the test tubes are removed in a standardized manner by applying 10 cotton pads soaked in 1.5 ml of micellar cleansing solution (gentle eye makeup remover from L'Oréal Paris).

Residual color is visually observed and scored against references (which do not contain solvent), with the following criteria:

"+" = low hold;

"++" = medium hold;

"+++" = good hold.

By "wear", we mean the persistence of the color (i.e. color hold) after makeup removal.

The results are as follows:

Hold after make-up removal

Formulation Outfit Reference 29 + Essay 49 ++ Reference 30 +/- Essay 50 +++ Reference 31 +/- Essay 51 ++ Reference 32 ++ Essay 52 +++ Reference 33 ++ Essay 53 +++

Example 2: comparison between a formula according to the invention (with direct acid dye) and a comparative formula (with lacquer)

The formulas performed are as follows:

58
(invention) 60
(comparative) Propylene carbonate 10% 10% Nonionic lamellar phase comprising
phases A to D described in example 1 above) 89% 82% Acid Direct Dye (ACID BLUE 9 (CI 42090)) 1% - Brilliant blue aluminum lake on alumina (UNIPURE BLUE LC 621, 12% active ingredient of acid BLUE 9) - 8.33% measured pH 5.64 5.93

The same protocol as that described in example 1 point II is carried out.

The results are given below:

Figure 1 shows the results before makeup removal.

Figure 2 shows the results after makeup removal.

Clearly, we see that at the same theoretical concentration of dye (in this case, a lacquer at 8.3% concentration), the coloring with the lacquer is significantly less than that with the dye.

The best coloring is obtained with the direct acid dye according to the invention.

Claims (18)

Composition, preferably cosmetic, in particular for coating keratin fibers such as the eyelashes, comprising:
an aqueous phase,
a lamellar phase Lβ formed by a surfactant system structuring the aqueous phase, said surfactant system being present in a content greater than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and said surfactant system comprising at least 5% by weight relative to the total composition weight of a nonionic surfactant of HLB at 25°C greater than or equal to 8, and at least 5% by weight relative to the total composition weight of a nonionic surfactant of HLB at 25° C less than 8,
at least 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of a hydrotropic solvent chosen from the solvents of formula (I):
(I)
where R1 represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-4 alkyl group, and
at least one direct acid dye compatible with application around the eyes, chosen from dyes having an anthraquinone, azine, azo, polymethine, triarylmethane or xanthene nucleus, and dyes comprising at least one –NO2 group. Composition according to Claim 1, in which the hydrotropic solvent is present in a total content greater than or equal to 5% by weight, in particular from 5 to 35% by weight, better still from 8 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to Claim 1 or 2, in which the hydrotropic solvent is ethylene carbonate or propylene carbonate, preferably propylene carbonate. Composition according to one of Claims 1 to 3, in which the surfactant system comprises a total content of surfactant(s) ranging from 15 to 40% by weight, better still from 16 to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition . Composition according to one of Claims 1 to 4, in which the surfactant system comprises at least one nonionic surfactant chosen from:
esters and ethers of (poly)oxyalkylenated or non-(poly)oxyalkylenated monosaccharides, including (poly)oxyalkylenated sorbitol ethers,
(poly)oxyalkylenated glycerol ethers,
(poly)oxyalkylenated or non-(poly)oxyalkylenated polyol esters; (poly)oxyalkylenated polyol esters are preferred, in particular (poly)oxyalkylenated polyol ester, (poly)oxyalkylenated glycerol, (poly)oxyalkylenated sorbitol or (poly)oxyalkylenated polyethylene glycol, and
(poly)oxyalkylenated or non-alcohols; (poly)oxyalkylenated alcohols are preferred. Preferred alcohols are C8-24 fatty alcohol ethers or polyethylene glycol ethers having 1 to 200 and preferably 2 to 100 ethylene glycol units; fatty alcohols are also a possible alternative, for example C _16-24 fatty alcohols comprising a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain, preferably primary fatty alcohols which have a saturated linear chain, such as in particular stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol and mixtures thereof. Composition according to one of Claims 1 to 5, in which the surfactant system comprises a nonionic surfactant of general formula (II) below:
(II)
in which :
ALK1 is a C7-23, preferably C11-21 and more preferably C15-19 alkyl group,
a and b are integers between 0 and 100, a and b are preferably equal to 0,
c is an integer between 1 and 100, particularly between 1 and 3 and preferably equal to 1,
Z is a group substituted or terminated by a hydroxyl group:
Z is preferably an oxyethylenated group (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _q or (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _q in which q is an integer greater than or equal to 1, preferably the (poly)oxyalkylenated group is a polyethylene glycol or chosen from polyglycerols ,
Z is preferably chosen from formulas (G) and (H):
(G)
Formula in which:
ALK2, identical or different, represent a C1-6 alkylene group, particularly C1-4, preferably ethylene,
s, t and u are integers between 0 and 100, it being understood that s+t+u is not equal to 0 and is preferably between 1 and 100;
(M)
And
(M)
and preferably
(M)
Formulas in which:
ALK2, identical or different, represents a C1-6 alkylene group, particularly C1-4 and preferably ethylene,
u represents an integer different from 0 and preferably between 1 and 200. Composition according to one of Claims 1 to 6, in which the surfactant system comprises a nonionic surfactant of general formula (III) below:
(III)
in which:
ALK3 is a C8-24, preferably C12-22 and more preferably C16-18 alkyl group,
v is an integer between 1 and 200, better between 2 and 200. Composition according to one of Claims 1 to 7, in which:
the nonionic surfactant with an HLB at 25° C. of less than 8 is chosen from (poly)oxyalkylenated alcohols, preferably oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylene alcohols having from 1 to 15 ethylene glycol and/or propylene glycol units, preferably ethoxylated fatty alcohols C8-24, in particular _C16-24 , such as ethoxylated stearyl alcohol comprising 2 oxyethylene units,
and the nonionic surfactant with an HLB at 25°C greater than or equal to 8 is chosen from:
fatty acid esters, in particular of C8-C24 acid, and preferably C16-C22 acid, and oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylene glycerol ethers which may contain from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene groups, such as PEG-200 glyceryl monostearate; polyethoxylated glyceryl stearate containing 30 ethylene oxide groups, polyethoxylated glyceryl oleate containing 30 ethylene oxide groups, polyethoxylated glyceryl cocoate containing 30 ethylene oxide groups or isostearate of polyethoxylated glyceryl with 30 ethylene oxide groups; And
oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylene ethers, which may contain from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene groups, of fatty alcohols, in particular of C8-C24 alcohol, and preferably C12-C18, such as oxyethylenated ether of stearyl alcohol with 20 oxyethylenated groups, the oxyethylenated ether of cetearyl alcohol with 30 oxyethylenated groups and the oxyethylenated ether of the mixture of C12-C15 fatty alcohols containing 7 oxyethylenated groups. Composition according to one of Claims 1 to 8, in which the direct acid dye is chosen from:
CI60730 (Acid Violet 43)
CI61570 (Acid Green 25)
CI61585 (Acid Blue 80)
CI62045 (Acid Blue 62)
CI50325 (Acid Violet 50)
CI14700 (FD&C Red 4)
CI14720 (Acid Red 14)
CI15620 (Acid Red 88)
CI15850 (D&C Red 7)
CI16035 (FD&C Red 40)
CI16185 (Acid Red 27)
CI16255 (Acid Red 18)
CI16290 (Acid Red 41)
CI17200 (Acid Red 33)
CI18050 (Acid Red 1)
CI18130 (Acid Red 155)
CI18736 (Acid Red 180)
CI24790 (Acid Red 163)
CI27290 (Acid Red 73)
CI14270 (Acid Orange 6)
CI15510 (Acid Orange 7)
CI15980 (Food Orange 2)
CI15985 (Food Yellow 3)
CI16230 (Acid Orange 10)
CI20170 (Acid Orange 24)
CI20470 (Acid Black 1)
CI27755 (Food Black No. 2)
CI28440 (Food Black 1)
CI50420 (Acid Black 2)
CI13015 (Acid Yellow 9)
CI18820 (Acid Yellow 11)
CI18965 (Acid Yellow 17)
CI19140 (Acid Yellow 23)
(betanin)
(bromocresol green)
CI42053 (Food Green 3)
CI42100 (Acid Green 9)
CI42170 (Acid Green 22)
CI44090 (Acid Green 50)
(bromothylol blue)
CI42045 (Acid Blue 1)
CI42080 (Acid Blue 7)
CI42090 (Acid Blue 9)
CI42090 (FDC Blue No. 1)
CI42735 (Acid Blue 104)
CI45190 (Acid Violet 9)
CI45100 (Acid Red 52)
45220 (Acid Red 50)
CI45380 (Acid Red 87)
CI45405 (Acid Red 98)
CI45410 (Acid Red 92)
CI45425 (Acid Red 95)
CI45430 (Acid Red 51)
CI45370 (Acid Orange 11)
CI45396 (Solvent Orange 16)
CI45350 (Acid Yellow 73)
CI45340 (Acid Yellow 73 Fluorescein)
CI10316 (Acid Yellow 1). Composition according to one of Claims 1 to 9, in which the aqueous phase is present in the composition according to the present application in a content ranging from 30 to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 40 to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 45 to 55% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to one of Claims 1 to 10, in which the water is present in the composition according to the present application in a content ranging from 30 to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 40 to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 40 to 55% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to one of Claims 1 to 11, additionally comprising at least one wax. Composition according to one of Claims 1 to 12, additionally comprising at least one film-forming polymer, preferably water-soluble. Composition according to one of Claims 1 to 13, in which the direct acid dye is dissolved in the aqueous phase. Composition according to one of Claims 1 to 14, in which the direct acid dye is different from a lacquer. Set or kit for coating keratin fibers comprising:
at least one composition according to one of Claims 1 to 15, and
at least one applicator of the composition, said applicator comprising means, where appropriate in relief, configured to come into engagement with said keratin fibres. Set or kit for packaging and applying a composition for coating keratin fibers comprising:
a conditioning device comprising a composition according to one of Claims 1 to 15, and
an applicator of said composition. Process for coating keratin fibers comprising the application to said keratin fibers of a composition according to one of Claims 1 to 15.