FR3044224A1 - COMPOSITION COMPRISING CHLORPHENESIN - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, in particular for coating keratinous fibers such as eyelashes, comprising: an aqueous phase; - A lamellar Lβ phase formed by a surfactant system structuring the aqueous phase, said surfactant system comprising a surfactant content (s) greater than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; at least one wax, the wax (es) being present in a total content greater than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and chlorphenesin, preferably in a content greater than or equal to 0.05% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. It also relates to a process for coating keratinous fibers, in particular eyelash makeup, comprising a step of applying to said keratin fibers a composition according to the invention.

Description

The present invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition for coating keratinous fibers, and in particular eyelashes or eyebrows. In particular, said composition is a makeup composition and possibly an eyelash care product. The present invention also relates to a process for coating keratinous fibers, in particular a process for makeup and possibly care of the eyelashes.

The composition used may in particular be in the form of a product for eyelashes such as a mascara, or a product for the eyebrows. More preferably, the invention relates to a mascara.

By "mascara" is meant a composition intended to be applied to the eyelashes: it may be an eyelash makeup composition, an eyelash makeup base (also called a base coat), a composition to be applied to an eyelash. mascara, also called top-coat, or else a composition for cosmetic treatment of eyelashes. Mascara is especially intended for human eyelashes, but also false eyelashes.

Mascaras conventionally comprise a significant amount of waxes and are commonly prepared according to two types of formulation: aqueous mascaras so-called cream mascaras, in the form of dispersion of waxes in water; anhydrous or low-water mascaras, so-called mascaras water-proofs, in the form of dispersions of waxes in organic solvents.

The present invention relates more specifically to so-called aqueous mascaras.

Aqueous mascaras generally consist of wax emulsions based on anionic surfactant system. However, these emulsions have the disadvantage of being relatively opaque and therefore limit the color intensity.

Thus, to overcome this defect, compositions comprising a new architecture based on the combination of a microdispersion of wax and lamellar phases formed by a surfactant system preferably nonionic have been developed (FR 2 996 765 and FR 3 019 737).

For obvious reasons, improving eyelash makeup compositions is a constant concern. Thus, along with the optimization of makeup effects, it is permanently sought to increase the stability over time and of course the safety of these compositions.

More specifically, with regard to this last aspect of safety, it is conventionally formulated within these compositions one or more preservatives dedicated to guarantee them microbiological protection.

However, some conventional preservatives, such as for example phenoxyethanol, need to be introduced in a relatively high content to be able to ensure the safety of a composition. Unfortunately, too much of some preservatives can have a negative impact elsewhere. Thus, the presence of phenoxy ethanol at a rate greater than 1.5% has the consequence of altering the architecture considered in FR 2 996 765 and FR 3 019 737 by softening the lamellar phases and thus developing a tack on the eyelashes.

One of the objectives of the present invention is therefore to propose a formulation with a lamellar phase architecture that is both satisfactory in terms of microbiological protection and allows the formation of a non-sticky deposit.

Unexpectedly, the inventors have found that the presence of a specific conservative precisely allowed to meet all of these objectives.

Thus, the present invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, in particular for coating keratinous fibers such as eyelashes, comprising: an aqueous phase; a lamellar phase LP formed by a surfactant system structuring the aqueous phase, said surfactant system comprising a surfactant content (s) greater than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; at least one wax, the wax (es) being present (s) in a total content greater than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and chlorphenesin, preferably in a higher content or equal to 0.05% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The inventors have thus found that, quite surprisingly, the combination of chlorphénésine with the specific architecture described above made it possible to protect the cosmetic formula obtained from the microbial contamination, while ensuring a rigid and non-sticky deposit.

In addition, the composition according to the invention has a creamy and pleasant texture and a good curling effect of the eyelashes is found after its application.

The subject of the present invention is also, according to a second aspect, a kit or kit for coating keratinous fibers comprising: at least one cosmetic composition for coating keratinous fibers as previously described, and at least one applicator of the composition, said applicator comprising means, optionally in relief, configured to engage with said keratinous fibers, such as eyelashes or eyebrows, to smooth and / or separate eyelashes or eyebrows. Such reliefs may include teeth, bristles or other. Said assembly, and in particular said applicator, may optionally be equipped with means for vibrating and / or heating said composition.

The subject of the present invention is also, according to a third aspect, an assembly or kit for conditioning and applying a composition for coating keratin fibers, comprising: a device for conditioning said cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibers, such as previously described, - an applicator of said composition.

Said applicator may be secured to a gripping member forming a cover for said conditioning device. In other words said applicator can be mounted in a removable position on said device between a closed position and a position released from a dispensing opening of the packaging device of said composition.

The subject of the present invention is also, according to a fourth aspect, a process for coating keratinous fibers, and in particular eyelash makeup, comprising a step of applying to said keratin fibers a cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibers such as previously described.

Throughout the following description and unless expressly stated: - the term "alkyl (e)" means a linear or branched, preferably linear, saturated, C8-C24, better still C12-C20 hydrocarbon or hydrocarbon group or chain, preferably C14-C18. - The "hydrocarbon chain" is optionally "(poly) unsaturated" when it comprises one or more double bonds and / or one or more triple bonds, conjugated or not; preferably this hydrocarbon chain is saturated. (Poly) oxyalkylene means that one or more -OH functions, in particular derived from a hydroxyl function or from a carboxylic function, may be substituted with an oxyalkylene group, particular oxyethylene. Other characteristics, properties and advantages of the present invention will emerge more clearly on reading the description and examples which follow.

chlorphenesin

As specified above, the composition of the invention comprises chlorphenesin, preferably in a content greater than or equal to 0.05% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. More preferably, this content is greater than or equal to 0.1% by weight, in particular greater than or equal to 0.15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, this content is less than or equal to 3% by weight, in particular 2.5% by weight, and preferably 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Chlorphenesin acts as a preservative within the composition of the invention and thus ensures its microbiological protection.

The inventors have found that the introduction of this preservative in the range of contents mentioned above allows the composition obtained both to effectively fight against microbes while remaining able to form a non-sticky deposit on the eyelashes.

Of course, chlorphenesin may be associated with at least one additional preservative. These additional preservatives may be any preservative known to those skilled in the art. When at least one additional preservative is present in the composition according to the invention, the total content of preservative (s) additional (s) is preferably not more than 3% by weight, preferably it will from 0.05 to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 2.5% by weight, in particular from 0.3 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In particular, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one additional preservative preferably selected from phenoxyethanol, benzoic acid, benzyl alcohol, dehydroacetic acid, and mixtures thereof, more preferably chosen from phenoxyethanol, dehydroacetic acid, and mixtures thereof, said additional preservative (s) being preferentially present in a total content ranging from 0.05 to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 2, 5% by weight, in particular from 0.3 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

More particularly, when the composition comprises phenoxyethanol, it is present in a content not exceeding 2% by weight, or even 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a total content of chlorphenesin, and optionally an additional preservative (s), ranging from 0.05 to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.3 to 2% by weight. , 5%, in particular from 0.5 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Composition according to the invention

The composition according to the invention may in particular be a make-up composition, a makeup base or "base coat", a "top-coat" composition to be applied to a make-up. In particular, it is a mascara.

It may especially have a viscosity at 25 ° C ranging from 5 to 50 Pa.s, in particular measured using a Rheomat RM100® apparatus.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention is in the form of an emulsion, in particular an emulsion of the wax (s) type in water.

Aqueous phase

The composition according to the invention comprises an aqueous phase, which can form a continuous phase of the composition.

The aqueous phase comprises water. It may also comprise at least one water-soluble solvent and / or at least one water-soluble film-forming polymer.

By "water-soluble solvent" is meant in the present invention a liquid compound at room temperature and miscible with water.

The water-soluble solvents that can be used in the compositions according to the invention can moreover be volatile.

Among the water-soluble solvents that can be used in the compositions in accordance with the invention, there may be mentioned lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol and isopropanol, glycols having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms. carbon such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol and dipropylene glycol.

The aqueous phase (water and optionally the solvent miscible with water), and in particular water, is generally present in the composition according to the present application in a content ranging from 30 to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 40 to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

This content in the aqueous phase includes the water deliberately added to the composition but also the water possibly coming from aqueous dispersions of film-forming polymers.

Dry extract

The composition according to the invention advantageously comprises a solids content greater than or equal to 40%, in particular 42%, and preferably 45%.

For the purpose of the present invention, the "dry matter content" denotes the content of non-volatile matter.

The amount of dry extract (abbreviated as ES) of a composition according to the invention is measured by means of a commercial halogen desiccant "HALOGEN MOISTURE ANALYZER HR 73" from METTLER TOLEDO. The measurement is based on the weight loss of a sample dried by halogen heating and thus represents the percentage of residual material once the water and volatiles have evaporated.

This technique is fully described in the device documentation provided by METTLER TOLEDO.

The measurement protocol is as follows:

About 2 g of the composition, hereinafter the sample, is spread on a metal cup which is introduced into the halogen desiccant mentioned above. The sample is then subjected to a temperature of 105 ° C until a constant weight is obtained. The wet mass of the sample, corresponding to its initial mass, and the dry mass of the sample, corresponding to its mass after halogen heating, are measured by means of a precision balance. The experimental error related to the measurement is about plus or minus 2%.

The content of Dry Extract is calculated as follows:

Dry Extract Content (in% by weight) = 100 x (Dry Weight / Wet Mass).

Surfactant system

A composition in accordance with the invention comprises a surfactant system forming a lamellar phase LP in the aqueous phase.

This surfactant system structuring the aqueous phase into a lamellar LP phase comprises a surfactant (s) content, preferably nonionic (s), greater than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the surfactant system comprises at least one nonionic surfactant, in particular it comprises a total content of nonionic surfactant (s) greater than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The surfactant system advantageously comprises a total content of surfactant (s), preferably nonionic (s), greater than or equal to 15% by weight, in particular 16% by weight, more particularly ranging from 15 to 45% by weight, more preferably 16 to 40% by weight, more preferably 16 to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises a surfactant system comprising: at least one nonionic surfactant with an HLB value at 25 ° C. of less than 8, and at least one nonionic surfactant with a HLB value of 25. ° C greater than or equal to 8, at least one of the non-ionic surfactant (s) of HLB value at 25 ° C of less than 8, and at least one of the surfactant (s) not ionic (s) of HLB value at 25 ° C greater than or equal to 8 corresponding to the following formula (I): (ALK- [C (O)] a- [0] b) cX (I)

Formula (I) in which: - ALK is a C7-C23, preferably C11-C21, more preferably C15-C17 alkyl group, - a and b are integers between 0 and 100, c is a number an integer between 1 and 100, in particular between 1 and 3, preferably equal to 1, a and b being preferably equal to 0 or 1, X is a (poly) oxyalkylene group optionally substituted and / or terminated by a hydroxy group, X being preferably an oxyethylene group (CH 2 CH 2 O) n or (OCH 2 CH 2) n in which n is greater than or equal to 1, for example between 1 and 200, said (poly) oxyalkylene group preferably being a polyethylene glycol or being the result of at least one substitution of a hydroxy group, preferably selected from (poly) glycerols.

In particular: ALK- [C (O)] a- [0] b generally means that the alkyl group AT, K may be derived from a fatty acid or a fatty alcohol.

[C (O)] a- [0] b means that the ALK group may comprise at least one function chosen from a COO ester function (when a + b = 1), a carbonyl function CO (when a = 1 and b = 0), an oxy function O (when a = 0 and b = 1), or be directly connected to the oxyalkylenated group (when a + b = 0).

The compounds of formula (I) preferably result from an esterification, more preferably from a mono-esterification, or from an etherification (or alkoxylation), more preferably from a mono-etherification (or mono-alkoxylation).

The group X is preferably chosen from: i) H0- (ALK-O) z-CH2-CH [(OALK) y-OH] -CH2- (O-ALK) x - (*) in which: identical ALK or differing from C 1 -C 6 alkylene, especially C 1 -C 4 alkylene, preferably ethylene, - x, y, z being an integer from 0 to 200, with the proviso that x + y + z is other than 0, preferably x + y + z is included between 1 and 150, in particular between 20 and 60; ii) H- (ALK-O) x - (*) and H- (O-ALK) x - (*), preferably H- (O-ALK) x - (*) in which: ALK identical or different C1-C6, in particular C1-C4, preferably ethylene, - x being an integer other than 0 and preferably between 1 and 200.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, at least one of the non-ionic surfactant (s) of HLB value at 25 ° C. of less than 8, and the nonionic surfactant (s) of HLB value at 25 ° C greater than or equal to 8, preferably the non-ionic surfactant (s) of HLB value at 25 ° C lower than 8, and the nonionic surfactant (s) (s) HLB value at 25 ° C greater than or equal to 8, is (are) selected from: those having the following formula (Γ): ALK- (0-CH2-CH2) "- 0H (Γ) )

Formula (Γ) in which: - ALK is a C8-C24, preferably a C12-C22, more preferably C16-C18, alkyl group, - n is an integer other than 0, between 1 and 200, preferably including between 1 and 10, better still between 2 and 6 for the non-ionic surfactant (s) of HLB value at 25 ° C. of less than 8, preferably of between 20 and 200, for the surfactant (s) ( s) nonionic (s) of HLB value at 25 ° C greater than or equal to 8; those having the following formula (I "): (ALK- [C (O)] a- [0] b) c- (Gly) d (F ')

Formula (F ') in which: -ALK is a C7-C23 alkyl group, preferably a C1-C2i group, more preferably a C15-C17 group; - a and b are integers between 0 and 100, c is a an integer between 1 and 100, in particular between 1 and 3, preferably equal to 1, a and b being preferably equal to 0 or 1, - Gly is a glycerol group, optionally substituted and / or terminated by a group hydroxy, in particular in which at least one of the -OH functions, and preferably a single -OH function, is substituted by the group (ALK- [C (O)] a- [0] b) c, preferentially ALK- (CO) ) -0, - d is an integer between 1 and 20, preferably between 1 and 12, in particular between 1 and 2 for the non-ionic surfactant (s) of HLB value at 25 ° C. less than 8, and between 4 and 20 for the non-ionic surfactant (s) of HLB value at 25 ° C greater than or equal to 8; and their mixtures.

The HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) value according to Griffin is defined in J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (volume 5), pages 249-256. Reference can be made to the document "Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, KIRK-OTHMER", Vol. 22, p. 333-432, 3rd edition, 1979, WILEY, for the definition of the properties and emulsifying functions of surfactants, in particular p. 347-377 of this reference.

Nonionic surfactants with a HLB value at 25 ° C greater than or equal to 8

The nonionic surfactant (s) of HLB value, Griffin sense, at 25 ° C., greater than or equal to 8, preferably greater than or equal to 10, may advantageously be chosen. among: - (poly) oxyalkylenated, in particular oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated glycerol ethers, which can comprise from 20 to 200 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene units; - (poly) oxyalkylenated alcohols, in particular oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated alcohols, which may comprise from 20 to 200 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene units, preferably from 20 to 100 oxyethylene units, in particular fatty alcohols, in particular C 8 -C 24 fatty alcohols, and preferably C12-C18, ethoxylated such as ethoxylated stearyl alcohol containing 20 oxyethylene units (CTFA name "Steareth-20") such as BRIJ S20-PA- (SG) marketed by the company CRODA, ethoxylated cetearyl alcohol with 30 oxyethylene units (CTFA name "Ceteareth-30"); the fatty acid esters, in particular the fatty acid esters, in particular C 8 -C 24, and preferably C 16 -C 22, and polyethylene glycol (or PEG) (poly) oxyalkylenated esters (which can comprise from 20 to 200 oxyethylene units), such as PEG-50 stearate and PEG-40 monostearate marketed under the name MYRJ 52P® by the company UNIQEMA; esters of fatty acids, in particular of C 8 -C 24, and preferably of C 16 -C 22, and of (poly) oxyalkylenated, in particular oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated (which may contain from 20 to 200 oxyethylene and and / or oxypropylene), such as polyoxyethylenated glyceryl monostearate containing 200 oxyethylene units, sold under the name Simulsol 220 TM® by the company SEPPIC; polyoxyethylene glyceryl stearate 30 oxyethylene units such as the product TAGAT S® sold by the company GOLDSCHMIDT, polyoxyethylenated glyceryl oleate 30 oxyethylene units such as TAGAT O® product sold by GOLDSCHMIDT, 30% polyoxyethylene glyceryl cocoate oxyethylene units, such as the product VARIONIC LI 13® sold by the company SHEREX, the polyoxyethylenated glyceryl isostearate with 30 oxyethylene units, such as the product TAGAT L® sold by the company GOLDSCHMIDT and the polyoxyethylenated glyceryl laurate with 30 oxyethylene units, such as the product TAGAT I® from GOLDSCHMIDT; fatty acid esters, especially C 8 -C 24, and preferably C 16 -C 22, and polyglycerols, preferably comprising from 4 to 20 glycerol groups; fatty acid esters, especially of C 8 -C 24, and preferably of C 16 -C 22, and of (poly) oxyalkylenated sorbitol ethers, in particular oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethers (which may contain from 20 to 200 oxyethylene units and or oxypropylene), such as polysorbate 60 sold under the name Tween 60® by the company Uniqema; - and their mixtures; preferably from (poly) oxyalkylenated alcohols preferably comprising from 20 to 200 oxyethylene (or ethylene glycol) units.

By "fatty acid" is preferably meant a mono-fatty acid.

Preferably, the non-ionic surfactant (s) of Griffin's HLB value at 25 ° C, greater than or equal to 8, preferably greater than or equal to 10 comprises (include) an alcohol ( poly) oxyalkylenated comprising at least one C 8 -C 24 fatty alcohol ether and polyethylene glycol, said ether comprising at least 20 ethylene glycol units, more preferably between 20 and 200 ethylene glycol units.

An example of a nonionic surfactant (s) of Griffin's HLB value at 25 ° C., of greater than or equal to 8, is particularly preferred is ethoxylated stearyl alcohol containing 20 oxyethylene units (CTFA name "Steareth-20"). .

A composition according to the invention may in particular comprise a non-ionic surfactant (s) of Griffin's HLB value, at 25 ° C, greater than or equal to 8, preferably greater than or equal to 10, in a content greater than or equal to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 8 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Nonionic surfactant (s) of HLB value at 25 ° C less than 8

The nonionic surfactant (s) of HLB value, Griffin's sense, at 25 ° C., of less than 8 may advantageously be chosen from: ose esters and ethers (poly) oxyalkylenated; esters of fatty acids, in particular of C 8 -C 24 and preferably of C 16 -C 22, and of (poly) oxyalkylenated polyol, in particular (poly) oxyalkylenated glycerol or (poly) oxyalkylenated sorbitol, preferably glycerol ( poly) oxyalkylenated; esters of fatty acids, in particular of C8-C24, and preferably of C16-C22, and of (poly) glycerol, preferably comprising one or two glycerol group (s); (poly) oxyalkylenated alcohols; - and their mixtures; preferably, it (they) is (are) chosen from (poly) oxyalkylenated alcohols preferably comprising from 1 to 10 oxyethylene units.

By (poly) oxyalkylenated is meant from 1 to 10 group (s) (or units) oxyethylene (s), better from 2 to 6 group (s) oxyethylene (s).

By "fatty acid" is preferably meant a mono-fatty acid. By way of examples of non-ionic surfactants of Griffin's HLB value, at 25 ° C., of less than 8, it is particularly advantageous to mention ethoxylated stearyl alcohol with 2 oxyethylene units (CTFA name "Steareth- 2 ") as the one sold under the name BRIJ S2-SO- (TH) by the company CRODA.

The nonionic surfactant (s) of HLB value at 25 ° C. of less than 8 preferably comprises (include) a (poly) oxyalkylene alcohol comprising a C 8 -C 24 fatty alcohol ether and polyethylene glycol. said ether comprising from 1 to 10, more preferably from 2 to 6, ethylene glycol units.

A composition according to the invention may in particular comprise a non-ionic surfactant (s) of Griffin's HLB value, at 25 ° C., of less than 8, in a content of greater than or equal to 5% by weight. weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 5 and 15%, in particular between 5 and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a preferred embodiment, the non-ionic surfactant (s) of HLB value at 25 ° C. of less than 8 and the nonionic surfactant (s) of HLB value at 25 ° C. C greater than or equal to 8, preferably both of the formula (I), are present in a total content ranging from 15 to 45% by weight, more particularly ranging from 16 to 40% by weight, more preferably from 16 to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The nonionic surfactant (s) of HLB value at 25 ° C lower than 8 and the nonionic surfactant (s) of HLB value at 25 ° C greater than or equal to 8, preferably both of the formula (I), are preferably present in a respective total content such that the weight ratio of the surfactant (s) (s) nonionic (s) of HLB value at 25 ° C lower than 8 on the the nonionic surfactant (s) of HLB value at 25 ° C. greater than or equal to 8 is from 1/5 to 5, preferably from 1/4 to 3, in particular from 1/3 to 3 / 2.

Preferably, a composition according to the invention is free of anionic surfactant (s).

Preferably, a composition according to the invention is free of amphoteric surfactant (s).

Moreover, the emulsifying system may comprise one or more co-surfactant (s) chosen from fatty alcohols comprising from 10 to 26 carbon atoms, better still from 12 to 24 carbon atoms and more preferably from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

LB lamellar phase

The surfactant system according to the invention organizes the aqueous phase in the form of an LP lamellar phase, or paracristalline LP phase, or gel lamellar phase.

This composition is stable at ambient temperature of 25 ° C. and has a viscosity preferably ranging from 5 to 50 Pa.s, measured at room temperature of 25 ° C. using a Rheomat RMI 00®.

The term "gel lamellar phase" or "paracristalline LP phase" is understood to mean a phase in which the molecules of surfactants and / or more generally of amphiphilic compounds are organized in the form of bimolecular layers spaced apart by aqueous sheets. Within the bimolecular layers, the molecules are distributed in a hexagonal geometry, their hydrocarbon chains are in a crystalline state and are oriented perpendicular to the plane of the bimolecular layers but have no specific orientation with respect to each other in the plane of these layers.

The LP paracrystalline phases are metastable phases in which the fatty chains are in the solid state and are randomly arranged relative to each other, unlike the paracristalline micellar, hexagonal, cubic and lamellar fluid phases (La) within of which the fatty chains are in the liquid state, and in contrast to the crystalline phases in which the fatty chains are in the solid state and oriented in an orderly manner with respect to each other. LP paracrystalline phases are metastable and, in general, they tend to evolve towards crystallization. However, the applicant has found a particular surfactant system for obtaining a stable LP paracristalline phase, and thus cosmetic compositions for coating keratinous fibers, in particular eyelashes, stable and comfortable to apply, having a curling effect, by using a particular system of surfactant type according to particular contents.

To identify the gel lamellar phase or paracristalline LP phase of the surfactant system present in the composition of the invention, it is possible to use different techniques, and in particular the X-ray diffraction technique.

Wide Angle X-Ray Scattering (WAXS) X-Ray Diffraction

X-ray diagrams were recorded by a Mar345 image plate detector (Maresearch, Norderstedt, Germany), mounted on an FR591 rotary anode X-ray generator (Bruker, Courtaboeuf, France), used at 50 kV and 50 kV. 50 mA. Monochromatic CuKa radiation (λ = 1.541 Å) was focused with a focal spot of 350 μm to 320 mm by double reflection on a multilayered Montel mirror of elliptical cross section (Incoatec, Geesthacht, Germany). The beam was defined under vacuum by four motorized carbon-tungsten slots (JJ-Xray, Roskilde, Denmark) positioned in front of the mirror (500 μm). Four additional protection slots were placed at the focal point at a separation distance of the slots of 220 mm. The flow downstream of the mica exit windows was 3 x 108 photons / sec. A 2 mm diameter circular wire harness was placed in the air 150 mm downstream of the sample and the detector was positioned at 360 mm. X-ray diagrams were therefore recorded for a reciprocal spacing range q = 47t * sin θ / λ of 0.03-1.8 Å'1, where Θ is the diffraction angle. Recurrent distances d = 2 π / q should be between 200 Å and 3.5 Å. The samples were placed in 1.2-1.3 mm glass capillaries (Glas W. Müller, Germany) and introduced into a homemade capillary fixing device, which can hold up to 20 capillaries at a temperature of controlled.

Cirefs)

A composition according to the invention comprises at least 5% by weight of at least one wax, better still at least 10% by weight, or even at least 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The wax (es) is (are) in general a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25 ° C.), with reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point greater than or equal to at 30 ° C up to 200 ° C and in particular up to 120 ° C.

For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "DSC Q2000" by the company TA Instruments.

Preferably, the waxes have a melting enthalpy AHf greater than or equal to 70 J / g.

Preferably, the waxes comprise at least one crystallizable part, visible by X-ray observations.

The measurement protocol is as follows:

A sample of 5 mg of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise from -20 ° C. to 120 ° C. at the heating rate of 10 ° C./min, then is cooled from 120 ° C. to -20 ° C at a cooling rate of 10 ° C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from -20 ° C to 120 ° C at a heating rate of 5 ° C / minute. During the second rise in temperature, the following parameters are measured: the melting point (Tf) of the wax, as previously mentioned, corresponding to the temperature of the most endothermic peak of the observed melting curve, representing the variation of the the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature; AHf: melting terthalpy of the wax corresponding to the integral of the whole of the melting curve obtained. This enthalpy of fusion of the wax is the amount of energy required to pass the compound from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J / g.

The wax (es) may be hydrocarbon (s), fluorinated (s) and / or silicone (s) and may be of vegetable, mineral, animal and / or synthetic origin.

Preferably, the wax (es) is (are) present in a total content ranging from 10 to 35%, better still from 12 to 30%, in particular from 15 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight. of the composition.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention has a total content of wax (es) and a total content of surfactant system such that the weight ratio of the wax (es) on the surfactant system is less than or equal to 2, preferably strictly less than 1.5, in particular between 1/3 and 1.25.

The composition of the invention preferably comprises as wax at least one polar wax. Even more preferably, it comprises as wax at least one polar wax and at least one apolar wax.

Polar wax

By "polar" wax is meant a wax whose solubility parameter calculated beyond its melting point δa is other than 0 (J / cm 3) '2.

In particular, "polar" wax is understood to mean a wax whose chemical structure is formed essentially or even consisting of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and comprising at least one highly electronegative heteroatom such as an oxygen atom. , nitrogen, silicon or phosphorus.

The definition and calculation of the solubility parameters in the HANSEN three-dimensional solubility space are described in the article by C. M. Hansen: "The three dimensional solubility parameters" J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967).

According to this Hansen space: - 5d characterizes the LONDON dispersion forces resulting from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular shocks; - δρ characterizes the DEBYE interaction forces between permanent dipoles as well as the KEESOM interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles; hh characterizes the specific interaction forces (hydrogen bond, acid / base, donor / acceptor, etc.) type; - oa is determined by the equation: δa = (δρ2 + ôh2) 2.

The parameters δρ, ôh, δο and δa are expressed in (J / cm3) / 2.

The polar wax (es) is (are) preferably present in a content of greater than or equal to 2%, in particular in a content ranging from 5 to 20%, more preferably from 8 to 15%. % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The polar waxes may especially be hydrocarbon, fluorinated or silicone.

Preferably, the polar waxes may be hydrocarbon-based.

By "hydrocarbon wax" is meant a wax formed essentially, or even constituted, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly of oxygen, nitrogen, and not containing a silicon atom or fluorine. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups.

By "ester wax" is meant according to the invention a wax comprising at least one ester function. By "alcohol wax" is meant according to the invention a wax comprising at least one alcohol function, that is to say comprising at least one free hydroxyl (OH) group.

It is especially possible to use as polar waxes those as chosen from: i) waxes of formula R 1 COOR 2 in which R 1 and R 2 represent linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chains whose number of atoms ranges from 10 to 50, which may contain a heteroatom such as O, N or P and whose melting point temperature varies from 25 to 120 ° C. ii) di- (1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate, sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company Heterene. iii) diester waxes of a dicarboxylic acid of general formula R3 - (- OCO-R4-COO-R5), in which R3 and R5 are identical or different, preferably identical and represent a C4-C30 alkyl group (group alkyl comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms) and R4 represents a C4-C30 aliphatic group (linear or branched alkyl group comprising 4 to 30 carbon atoms) which may or may not contain one or more unsaturations, and preferably linear and unsaturated. iv) We may also mention the waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having C8-C32 linear or branched fatty chains, for example such as hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, and waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol. v) Beeswax, synthetic beeswax, polyglycerolated beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, oxypropylene lanolin wax, rice bran wax, Ouricury wax , Alfa wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax, sumac wax, montan wax, orange wax, laurel wax, wax Hydrogenated Jojoba, sunflower wax, lemon wax, olive wax, berry wax.

According to another embodiment, the polar wax may be an alcohol wax. By "alcohol wax" is meant according to the invention a wax comprising at least one alcohol function, that is to say comprising at least one free hydroxyl (OH) group. As alcohol wax, mention may be made, for example, of the wax C30-50 Alcohols Performacol® 550 Alcohol marketed by New Phase Technologie, stearyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol.

It is also possible to use silicone waxes, which may advantageously be substituted polysiloxanes, preferably at a low melting point.

By "silicone wax" is meant an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular comprising Si-O groups.

Among the commercial silicone waxes of this type, mention may be made especially of those sold under the names Abilwax 9800, 9801 or 9810 (Goldschmidt), KF910 and KF7002 (ShinEtsu), or 176-1118-3 and 176-11481 (General Electric).

The silicone waxes that may be used may also be alkyls or alkoxydimethicones, as well as (C 20 -C 18) alkyl dimethicones, in particular (C 30 -C 45) alkyl dimethicones, such as the silicone wax sold under the name SF-1642 by the company GE-Bayer Silicones. or C30-45 Alkyldimethylsilyl Polypropylsilsesquioxane under the name SW-8005® C30 Resin Wax sold by the company Dow Corning.

In the context of the present invention, there may be mentioned as particularly advantageous polar wax beeswax, for example that marketed under the name White Beeswax SP-453P by the company Strahl & Pitsch or carnauba wax such as that sold under the name Cerauba Tl by the company Baerlocher.

Apolar wax

By "apolar wax", within the meaning of the present invention, is meant a wax whose solubility parameter at 25 ° C as defined below, 0a is equal to 0 (J / cm3) / 2.

The apolar waxes are in particular hydrocarbon waxes consisting solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms and free of heteroatoms such as N, O, Si and P.

The apolar wax (es) is (are) preferably present in a total content greater than or equal to 2%, in particular in a content ranging from 4 to 20%, more preferably from 5 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The apolar waxes are chosen from microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite, polyethylene waxes, and mixtures thereof.

As ozokerite, mention may be made of Ozokerite Wax SP 1020 P.

Microcrystalline waxes that may be used include Multiwax W 445® sold by Sonneborn, Microwax HW® and Base Wax 30540® sold by Paramelt, and Cerewax® No. 3 sold by Baerlocher.

As polyethylene wax, mention may be made of Performalene 500-L Polyethylene and Performalene 400 Polyethylene marketed by New Phase Technologies, Asensa® SC 211 sold by the company Honeywell and as paraffin we may mention the Ceraffine 56-58 marketed by BAERLOCHER.

In the context of the present invention, there can be mentioned as particularly advantageous apolar wax paraffin wax, for example Ceraffine 56-58 marketed by BAERLOCHER.

Film forming polymer (s)

The composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one film-forming polymer chosen from water-soluble film-forming polymers and film-forming polymers in aqueous dispersion.

The composition according to the invention preferably comprises more precisely at least one water-soluble film-forming polymer.

In the present application, the term "film-forming polymer" is intended to mean a polymer capable of forming on its own or in the presence of a film-forming auxiliary agent a macroscopically continuous deposit, and preferably a cohesive deposit, and better still a deposit of which the cohesion and the mechanical properties are such that said deposit can be isolable and manipulable in isolation, for example when said deposit is made by casting on a non-stick surface such as a Teflon or silicone surface.

A composition according to the invention preferably comprises a solids content of polymer (s) film-forming (s) ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5 to 8 %, better from 1 to 5%.

More preferably, a composition according to the invention preferably comprises a total content of dry matter of polymer (s) film (s) water-soluble (s) ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5 to 8%, more preferably from 1 to 5%.

It may also comprise at least one aqueous dispersion of particles formed from one or more film-forming polymers. Thus a composition may comprise at least one additional film-forming polymer, distinct from water-soluble film-forming polymers.

Water-soluble film-forming polymer

The compositions according to the present invention preferably comprise at least one water-soluble film-forming polymer.

The total dry matter content of "water-soluble film-forming polymer (s)" may range from 0.1 to 10%, preferably from 0.5 to 8% and better still from 1 to 5% by weight. relative to the total weight of the composition.

Examples of water-soluble film-forming polymers that may be mentioned include: proteins, such as proteins of vegetable origin, such as wheat or soy proteins; proteins of animal origin such as keratins, for example keratin hydrolysates and keratin sulfonates; cellulose polymers such as hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, methylcellulose, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, as well as quaternized cellulose derivatives; acrylic polymers or copolymers, such as polyacrylates or polymethacrylates; vinyl polymers, such as polyvinylpyrrolidones, copolymers of methylvinyl ether and of malic anhydride, the copolymer of vinyl acetate and crotonic acid, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinyl acetate; copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and caprolactam; polyvinyl alcohol; anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic chitin or chitosan polymers, gum arabic, guar gum, xanthan derivatives, karaya gum, acacia gum; alginates and carrageenans; glycoaminoglycans, hyaluronic acid and its derivatives; - deoxyribonucleic acid; - Muccopolysaccharides such as chondroitin sulfate, and - their mixtures.

Coloring matters

The compositions according to the invention preferably comprise at least one dyestuff.

This (or these) dyestuff (s) is (or are) preferably chosen from pulverulent materials, liposoluble dyes, water-soluble dyes, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one pulverulent dyestuff. The pulverulent dyestuffs may be chosen from pigments and nacres, preferably from pigments.

The pigments may be white or colored, mineral and / or organic, coated or uncoated. Mention may be made, among mineral pigments, of metal oxides, in particular titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, oxides of zirconium, zinc or cerium, and also oxides of iron, titanium or chromium, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue. Among the organic pigments, mention may be made of carbon black, D type pigments & C, and lacquers based on carmine cochineal, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum.

The nacres may be chosen from white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

Liposoluble dyes are, for example, Sudan Red, D & C Red 17, D & C Green 6, β-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, D & C Yellow 11, D & C Violet 2, D & C Orange 5, yellow quinoline, annatto.

Preferably, the pigments contained in the compositions according to the invention are chosen from metal oxides.

Thus, the composition according to the invention advantageously comprises at least one dyestuff chosen from one or more pulverulent material (s), preferably metal oxides. More particularly, it comprises at least iron oxides.

These dyestuffs may be present in a content ranging from 0.01 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 3 to 22% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the dye (s) is (are) chosen from one or more metal oxide (s) present in a content greater than or equal to 2% by weight relative to total weight of the composition, advantageously between 3 and 22% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

loads

The compositions according to the invention may also comprise at least one filler.

The fillers may be selected from those well known to those skilled in the art and commonly used in cosmetic compositions. The fillers can be mineral or organic, lamellar or spherical. Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, polyamide powders such as Nylon® sold under the name Orgasol® by Atochem, poly-P-alanine and polyethylene, and tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders. such as Teflon®, lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride, expanded polymeric hollow microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile such as those sold under the name Expancel® by Nobel Industrie, acrylic powders such as those sold under the name Polytrap® by the company Dow Corning, polymethyl methacrylate particles and silicone resin microspheres (Toshiba's Tospearls®, for example), precipitated calcium carbonate, carbonate and Thydro-magnesium carbonate, Thydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres (Silica Beads® from MAPRECOS), glass or carbon microcapsules metallic amines derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, and in particular from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate.

The fillers can represent from 0.1 to 15%, in particular from 0.5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Cosmetic assets

The compositions in accordance with the invention may also comprise at least one cosmetic active agent.

As cosmetic active agents that can be used in the compositions in accordance with the invention, mention may in particular be made of antioxidants, perfumes, neutralizers, emollients, coalescence agents, moisturizers, vitamins and especially solar filters, and their mixtures.

Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional additives and / or their amount so that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially impaired by the addition envisaged.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention is not rinsed.

Preferably, the composition is a makeup composition and in particular a mascara.

Oil or organic solvent

The compositions according to the invention are preferably free of oil or organic solvent. However, they can understand it.

The compositions according to the invention may in particular comprise at least one oil chosen from at least one non-volatile oil, at least one volatile oil, and their mixtures.

Non-volatile oil

By "oil" is meant a liquid fatty substance at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.

"Non-volatile oil" means an oil remaining on the skin or keratin fiber at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. More specifically, a non-volatile oil has an evaporation rate strictly less than 0.01 mg / cm 2 / min.

To measure this rate of evaporation is introduced into a crystallizer, with a diameter of 7 cm, placed on a scale located in a large chamber of about 0.3 m 3 temperature-controlled, at a temperature of 25 ° C, and in hygrometry, at a relative humidity of 50%, 15 g of oil or oil mixture to be tested. The liquid is allowed to evaporate freely, without stirring, providing ventilation by a fan (PAPST-MOTOREN, reference 8550 N, rotating at 2700 revolutions per minute) arranged in a vertical position above the crystallizer containing said oil or said mixture, the blades being directed to the crystallizer and at a distance of 20 cm from the bottom of the crystallizer. The mass of oil remaining in the crystallizer is measured at regular intervals.

The evaporation rates are expressed in mg of evaporated oil per unit area (cm2) and per unit of time (minute).

Said at least one non-volatile oil may be selected from hydrocarbon oils and silicone oils, and mixtures thereof, preferably from hydrocarbon oils.

The non-volatile hydrocarbon oils that are suitable for the present invention may in particular be chosen from: hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as triglycerides consisting of esters of fatty acids and of glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths various C4 to C28, the latter being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils include wheat germ, sunflower, grape seed, sesame, maize, apricot, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soya, sweet almond, rapeseed, cotton, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, palm, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, sesame, pumpkin, rapeseed, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, bancoulier, passiflora, muscat rose; or alternatively caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, such as those sold by Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by the company Sasol; synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms; - linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin other than the polymers according to the invention, such as petroleum jelly, polybutenes, polydecenes, squalane, and mixtures thereof; synthetic esters, such as the oils of formula R 1 COOR 2 in which R 1 represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, and R 2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, especially a branched hydrocarbon chain, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms at provided that R1 + R2 is> 10, such as, for example, purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate, hexyl laurate diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearate isostearate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters; - at room temperature liquid alcohol with a branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol; higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and mixtures thereof.

The nonvolatile silicone oils that are suitable for the present invention may in particular be chosen from: the non-volatile silicone oils that may be used in the composition in accordance with the invention may be non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl groups or alkoxy, pendant and / or silicone chain end, groups each having 2 to 24 carbon atoms, phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates.

A composition according to the invention optionally comprises at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil of plant origin, such as triglycerides consisting of esters of fatty acids and of glycerol, the fatty acids of which can have various chain lengths of C4 to C28. , especially palm oil and hydrogenated jojoba. A composition according to the invention is preferably free of non-volatile oil (s) silicone (s).

A composition according to the invention is preferably free of non-volatile oil. However, the total content of nonvolatile oil (s) in a composition according to the invention is less than or equal to 10% by weight, in particular less than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Volatile oil

The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one volatile oil.

By "volatile oil" is meant an oil (or non-aqueous medium) capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil, liquid at room temperature. More specifically, a volatile oil has an evaporation rate of between 0.01 and 200 mg / cm 2 / min, inclusive.

This volatile oil can be hydrocarbon-based. The volatile hydrocarbon oil may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils having from 7 to 16 carbon atoms.

The composition according to the invention may contain one or more branched alkane (s) volatile (s). By "one or more branched alkane (s) volatile (s)" is meant indifferently "one or more volatile branched alkane (s) oil (s)".

As hydrocarbon-based volatile oil having from 7 to 16 carbon atoms, there may be mentioned in particular branched C 8 -C 18 alkanes such as iso-alkanes (also called isoparaffins) C 6 -C 16, isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane and for example the oils sold under the trade names of Isopars or permetyls, branched C8-C16 esters such as isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the hydrocarbonaceous volatile oil having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms is chosen from isododecane, isodecane and isohexadecane, and mixtures thereof, and is especially isododecane.

The composition according to the invention may contain one or more volatile linear alkane (s). By "one or more volatile linear alkane (s)" is meant indifferently "one or more volatile linear alkane (s) oil (s)".

A volatile linear alkane suitable for the invention is liquid at ambient temperature (about 25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

By "volatile linear alkane" suitable for the invention is meant a linear cosmetic alkane, capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm). Hg, ie 101,325 Pa), liquid at room temperature, especially having an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 15 mg / cm 2 / min, at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 ° C.). mm Hg).

Linear alues, preferably of plant origin, comprising from 7 to 15 carbon atoms, in particular from 9 to 14 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 11 to 13 carbon atoms. By way of example of a linear alkane which is suitable for the invention, mention may be made of the alkanes described in the patent applications of Cognis WO 2007/068371, or WO2008 / 155059 (distinct alkane mixtures and differing from less a carbon). These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, themselves obtained from coconut oil or palm oil. By way of example of a linear alkane suitable for the invention, mention may be made of n-heptane (C7), n-octane (C8), n-nonane (C9), n-decane (C10), n-undecane (Cil), ndodecane (C12), n-tridecane (C13), n-tetradecane (C14), pentadecane (C15), and mixtures thereof, and in particular the mixture of n-undecane (Cil) and n-tridecane (C13) described in Example 1 of Application WO2008 / 155059 from Cognis. Mention may also be made of n-dodecane (Cl 2) and n-tetradecane (Cl 4) sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97, and mixtures thereof.

The linear alkane may be used alone or as a mixture of at least two different alkanes and differing from each other by a carbon number of at least 1, and in particular a mixture of at least two linear alkanes containing from 10 to 14 carbon atoms. different carbon atoms and differing from each other by a carbon number of at least 2, and in particular a mixture of linear volatile C1 1 / C13 alkanes or a mixture of linear C12 / C14 alkanes, in particular a mixture of -undecane / n-tridecane (such a mixture can be obtained according to Example 1 or Example 2 of WO 2008/155059).

Alternatively or additionally, the composition produced may comprise at least one volatile silicone oil or solvent compatible with a cosmetic use.

By silicone oil is meant an oil containing at least one silicon atom, and in particular containing Si-O groups. According to one embodiment, said composition comprises less than 10% by weight of non-volatile silicone oil (s), relative to the total weight of the composition, better still less than 5% by weight, or even is free from silicone oil.

As silicone volatile oil, mention may be made of cyclic polysiloxanes, linear polysiloxanes and mixtures thereof. Volatile linear polysiloxanes that may be mentioned include hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, tetradecamethylhexasiloxane and hexadecamethylheptasiloxane. Cyclic volatile polysiloxanes that may be mentioned include hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane.

Alternatively or additionally, the composition produced may comprise at least one volatile fluorinated oil.

By fluorinated oil is meant an oil containing at least one fluorine atom.

As fluorinated volatile oil, there may be mentioned nonafluoromethoxybutane or perfluoromethylcyclopentane, and mixtures thereof.

A composition according to the invention is preferably free of non-volatile oil. However, at least one volatile oil may be present in a content of less than or equal to 10% by weight, in particular less than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Together

A keratin fiber coating assembly adapted to the invention may comprise an applicator configured to apply said cosmetic composition for coating keratinous fibers, and if necessary a conditioning device adapted to receive said composition.

Applicator The applicator may comprise means for smoothing and / or separating the keratin fibers, such as eyelashes or eyebrows, especially in the form of teeth, bristles or other reliefs. The applicator is arranged to apply the composition to the eyelashes or the eyebrows, and may comprise for example a brush or a comb. The applicator can still be used for makeup finishing, on a region of eyelashes or eyebrows made up or loaded with the composition.

The brush may comprise a twisted core and bristles caught between the turns of the core, or be carried out otherwise.

The comb is for example made in one piece by molding plastic material.

In some exemplary embodiments, the applicator element is mounted at the end of a rod, which may be flexible, which may contribute to improving comfort at the application.

Conditioning device

The packaging device may comprise a container intended to house the coating composition of the keratinous fibers. This composition can then be taken from the container by immersing the applicator therein.

This applicator may be integral with a closure element of the container. This closure element may form a gripping member of the applicator. This gripping member may form a cap to removably mount on said container by any suitable means such as screwing, latching, fitting or other. Such a container can thus reversibly accommodate said applicator.

This container may optionally be equipped with a wiper adapted to rid a surplus of product taken by the applicator.

A process for applying the composition according to the invention to the eyelashes or the eyebrows may also comprise the following steps: forming a deposit of the cosmetic composition on the eyelashes or the eyebrows, leaving the deposit on the eyelashes or the eyebrows the deposit can dry.

It should be noted that according to another embodiment the applicator can form a product container. In such a case a container may for example be provided in the gripping member and an internal channel may internally connect the gripping member to the relief elements application.

Finally, it should be noted that the packaging and application assembly can be in the form of a kit, the applicator and the packaging device can be housed separately under the same packaging article.

Throughout the description, including the claims, the phrase "having one" should be understood as being synonymous with "having at least one", unless the opposite is specified.

Expressions "between ... and ...", "from ... to ..." and "varying from ... to ..." must be understood to include limits, unless the opposite is specified.

The following examples are given by way of illustration of the present invention, and can not limit the scope thereof.

EXAMPLE

Mascaras conforming (compositions 1 to 3) and non-compliant (compositions 4 to 6) formulations to the invention are described in the table below.

The compositions are prepared from the weight proportions described below. The percentages are by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

It is understood that the proportions indicated correspond to the contents of active ingredient.

Preparation of compositions

The mascara formulations are prepared as follows. All the raw materials used are weighed carefully thanks to a scale (precision 0,01g).

i. Preparation of phase A

Phase A is prepared in a jacketed skillet with hot oil circulation to control the temperature. The set temperature is set at 95-98 ° C until the total melting of the waxes and surfactants.

ii. Preparation of phase B

The various ingredients are added to a beaker and stirred for 30 minutes using a Rayneri mixer at a temperature of 90 ° C.

or. Mixing of phases A and B

When phase A is melted, phase B is poured into phase A. The mixture is stirred for 30 minutes at 90 ° C. The preparation is then cooled to room temperature.

iv. Preparation of phase C

The ingredients of phase C are mixed in a beaker and are stirred for 5 minutes with a Rayneri mixer until a homogeneous preparation is obtained.

v. Addition of phase C

Phase C is introduced at ambient temperature with stirring until a homogeneous preparation is obtained. vi. End of formulation

The mascara thus obtained is transferred into an enclosed container to prevent drying in contact with the air.

Evaluation of the viscosity of the compositions i. Protocol

The viscosity (in Pa s) is measured at 25 ° C. using a rheometer, for example a Rheomat RM 100® rheometer. ii. Results

Evaluation of the antimicrobial activity of the compositions The antimicrobial efficacy of a composition was evaluated by the Challenge Test method or artificial contamination. i. Protocol

The challenge-test method consists of an artificial contamination of the sample by microbial strains of collection (bacteria, yeasts and molds)

and an evaluation of the number of revivifiable microorganisms seven days after inoculation.

In order to determine the effect of the exemplified compositions (whether or not in accordance with the present invention), the antimicrobial activity of these compositions was compared with the same compositions in which the preservatives (ie chlorphenesin and / or phenoxyethanol) were replaced by water (control compositions), after inoculation of about 106 CFU (colony-forming units) / gram of composition.

The following pure cultures of microorganisms are used.

ATCC = American Type Culture Collection

Strains of Gram - (Escherichia coli and Pseudomonas aeruginosa), gram + bacteria (Enterococcus faecalis), yeast (Candida albicans), and mold (Aspergillus niger) are seeded in transplanting medium, respectively the day before the inoculation for bacteria and yeast, and 5 days before inoculation for mold.

On the day of inoculation: a suspension in Tryptone salt diluent is prepared for the bacteria and the yeast, respectively, so as to obtain, on the spectrophotometer, an optical density suspension of between 35% and 45% of light transmitted at 544 nm. ; for mildew, the spores are removed by washing the agar with 6-7 ml of harvest solution and the suspension is recovered in a sterile flask or tube.

After homogenizing the microbial suspension, 0.2 ml of inoculum (the suspensions are used pure: between 1 * 108 and 3 * 108 CFU per ml) are introduced into each pill box and the mixture is perfectly homogenized using a spatula. the microbial suspension in the 20 g of test composition or control composition.

The level of microorganisms present in the composition corresponds, after homogenization, to a concentration of 106 seeds per gram of product, ie the inoculation at 1% of an inoculum with 108 seeds per ml.

After 7 days of contact time between the seeds and the composition at 22 ° C. ± 2 ° C. and in the dark, decimal dilutions are carried out and the number of revivifiable microorganisms remaining in the composition is counted. ii. Results

The following table accounts for the antimicrobial activity of the compositions according to the invention (compositions 1 to 3) and comparative compositions (compositions 4 to 6), expressed in number of reduction log after 7 days of contact, with respect to witness:

It is thus found that the compositions according to the invention as well as the composition outside the invention 6, which comprises 2% of phenoxyethanol as a preservative system have a good antimicrobial activity irrespective of the strain.

On the other hand, it appears that the compositions outside the invention 4 and 5 are not effective, which shows that a composition comprising a content of less than or equal to 1% of phenoxyethanol as a preservative system does not make it possible to ensure the microbiological protection of it.

Evaluation of the rigidity of the deposit i. Protocol

The rigidity of the deposit is evaluated by the measurement of the compressive force using a RT / TX2 texturometer of Rhéo.

The product is poured into a steel cup 75 mm in diameter which is filled to 75%. The measurement is made after placing the sample 24 hours at 20 ° C.

The experimental parameters are as follows: - mobile: stainless steel cylinder diameter 2mm; - Predictor: lmm / s; - measurement speed: 0.1mm / s;

- depth of penetration: 0.3mm; relaxation: 1 second; - removal of the mobile.

The hardness value is equal to the measurement of the stress measured at the end of the penetration divided by the surface of the cylinder.

For the purposes of the invention, a film is considered to be sufficiently rigid when its hardness is greater than or equal to 150 kPa.

It should be noted that below this value, the consumer may feel a too sticky product perception due to the insufficient hardness of the film. ii. Results

It is then found that the compositions according to the invention (compositions 1 to 3) as well as the compositions outside the invention 4 and 5 comprising, as a preservative system, a small amount of phenoxyethanol, namely less than or equal to 1%, allow the formation of a sufficiently rigid film on the eyelashes.

On the other hand, it appears that the composition outside the invention 6, comprising as conservative system a high amount of phenoxyethanol, namely 2%, is not satisfactory on this aspect, and therefore forms a sticky deposit on the eyelashes.

Conclusion

It has thus been demonstrated that the compositions according to the invention (compositions 1 to 3), that is to say endowed with a preservative system containing chlorphenesin, are satisfactory in terms of microbiological protection while allowing the formation of a sufficiently rigid deposit on the eyelashes to be non-sticky.

In contrast, compositions whose preservative system is devoid of chlorphenesin do not give this result. Indeed, it has been shown that when they contain only phenoxyethanol as a preservative, the latter must be

present in large quantities to obtain a good antimicrobial efficacy (the composition 6 which comprises 2% of phenoxyethanol is satisfactory, which is not the case of the compositions 4 and 5 whose phenoxyethanol content is less than or equal to 1%), but then form a deposit of insufficient rigidity, and therefore sticky.

Claims (20)

A composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, in particular for coating keratinous fibers such as eyelashes, comprising: an aqueous phase; a lamellar phase LP formed by a surfactant system structuring the aqueous phase, said surfactant system comprising a surfactant content (s) greater than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; at least one wax, the wax (es) being present (s) in a total content greater than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and chlorphenesin, preferably in a higher content or equal to 0.05% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 2. Composition according to claim 1, comprising at least one additional preservative, preferably selected from phenoxyethanol, benzoic acid, benzyl alcohol, dehydroacetic acid, and mixtures thereof, more preferably chosen from phenoxyethanol, dehydroacetic acid, and mixtures thereof, preferably said additional preservative (s) being present (s) in a total content ranging from 0.05 to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 2.5 % by weight, in particular from 0.3 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, comprising a total content of chlorphenesin, and optionally additional preservative (s), ranging from 0.05 to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.3 to 2. , 5%, in particular from 0.5 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the surfactant system comprises at least one nonionic surfactant, preferably said surfactant system comprises a total content of nonionic surfactant (s) greater than or equal to 15%. by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the surfactant system comprises: at least one nonionic surfactant of HLB value at 25 ° C of less than 8, and at least one nonionic surfactant of HLB value at 25 ° C greater than or equal to 8, at least one of the non-ionic surfactant (s) of HLB value at 25 ° C of less than 8, and at least one of the surfactant (s) not ionic (s) of HLB value at 25 ° C greater than or equal to 8 corresponding to the following formula (I): (ALK- [C (O)] a- [0] b) cX (I) Formula (I) in in which: ALK is a C 7 -C 23, preferably C 11 -C 21, more preferably C 15 -C 17 alkyl group; a and b are integers between 0 and 100, c is an integer between 1 and 100, in particular between 1 and 3, preferably equal to 1, a and b being preferably equal to 0 or 1, - X is a (poly) oxyalkylene group optionally substituted and / or terminated by a n hydroxy group, X being preferably an oxyethylene group (CH 2 CH 2 O) n or (OCH 2 CH 2) n, in which n is greater than or equal to 1, for example between 1 and 200, said (poly) oxyalkylene group preferably being a polyethylene glycol or being the result of at least one substitution of a hydroxy group, preferably selected from (poly) glycerols. The composition of claim 5, wherein the group X is selected from: i) HO- (ALK-O) z-CH 2 -CH [(OALK) y-OH] -CH 2 - (O-ALK) x- ( *) in which: - ALK identical or different representing a C1-C6 alkylene group, in particular C1-C4, preferably ethylene, - x, y, z being an integer between 0 and 200, it being understood that x + y + z is different from 0, preferably x + y + z is included between 1 and 150, in particular between 20 and 60; ii) H- (ALK-O) x - (*) and H- (O-ALK) x - (*), preferably H- (O-ALK) x - (*) in which: ALK identical or different C 1 -C 6 alkylene, in particular C 1 -C 4 alkylene, preferably ethylene, - x being an integer other than 0 and preferably between 1 and 200. The composition of claim 5 or 6, wherein at least one of the nonionic surfactant (s) of HLB value at 25 ° C lower than 8, and the surfactant (s) not ionic (s) HLB value at 25 ° C greater than or equal to 8, preferably the (the) surfactant (s) nonionic (s) of HLB value at 25 ° C less than 8, and the (the) surfactant (s) ( s) non-ionic (s) of HLB value at 25 ° C greater than or equal to 8, is (are) chosen from: those corresponding to the following formula (Γ): ALK- (O-CH 2 -CH 2) " In which: ALK is a C8-C24, preferably C12-C22, more preferably C16-C18, alkyl group, n is an integer different from 0, between 1 and 200, preferably between 1 and 10, more preferably between 2 and 6, for the non-ionic surfactant (s) of HLB value at 25 ° C. of less than 8, preferably of between 20 and 200, for the nonionic surfactant (s) of HLB value at 25 ° C higher or equal to 8; those corresponding to the following formula (Γ): (ALK- [C (O)] a- [0] b) c- (Gly) d (I ") Formula (F1) in which: - ALK is an alkyl group in C7-C23, preferably Cn-C2i, more preferably C15-C17, - a and b are integers between 0 and 100, c is an integer between 1 and 100, in particular between 1 and 3 , preferably 1, a and b being preferably 0 or 1, - Gly is a glycerol group, optionally substituted and / or terminated with a hydroxy group, in particular in which at least one of the -OH functions, and preferably a single -OH function, is substituted by the group (ALK- [C (O)] a- [0] b) c, preferentially ALK- (CO) -O, -d is an integer between 1 and 20 preferably between 1 and 12, in particular between 1 and 2 for the non-ionic surfactant (s) of HLB value at 25 ° C. of less than 8, and between 4 and 20 for the surfactant (s) nonionic acid (s) of HLB value at 25 ° C higher or equal to 8, and mixtures thereof. 8. Composition according to any one of claims 5 to 7, wherein the (the) surfactant (s) nonionic (s) of HLB value at 25 ° C of less than 8 is (are) chosen from: - (poly) oxyalkylenated esters and ethers; esters of fatty acids, in particular of Cs-C24, and preferably of C16-C22, and of (poly) oxyalkylenated polyol, in particular (poly) oxyalkylenated glycerol or (poly) oxyalkylenated sorbitol, preferably glycerol ( poly) oxyalkylenated; esters of fatty acids, in particular of Cs-C24, and preferably of C16-C22, and of (poly) glycerol, preferably comprising one or two glycerol group (s); (poly) oxyalkylenated alcohols; and their mixtures; preferably, it (they) is (are) chosen from (poly) oxyalkylenated alcohols preferably comprising from 1 to 10 oxyethylene units. 9. Composition according to any one of claims 5 to 8, wherein the (the) surfactant (s) nonionic (s) of HLB value at 25 ° C of less than 8 comprises (include) a (poly) oxyalkylenated alcohol comprising a C 8 -C 24 fatty alcohol ether and polyethylene glycol, said ether comprising between 1 to 10, better still between 2 and 6, ethylene glycol units. 10. Composition according to any one of claims 5 to 9, wherein the (the) surfactant (s) nonionic (s) of HLB value at 25 ° C greater than or equal to 8, preferably greater than or equal to 10, is (are) chosen from: - (poly) oxyalkylenated glycerol ethers, - (poly) oxyalkylenated alcohols, - (poly) oxyalkylenated fatty acid and polyethylene glycol esters, - acid esters and fatty esters of (poly) oxyalkylenated glycerol ethers, fatty acid esters of (poly) oxyalkylenated sorbitol ethers, fatty acid esters, especially of C 8 -C 24, and preferably of C 16 -C 24; C22, and polyglycerols, preferably comprising from 4 to 20 glycerol groups, and - their mixtures; preferably it (s) is (are) chosen from (poly) oxyalkylenated alcohols preferably comprising from 20 to 200 oxyethylene units. 11. Composition according to any one of claims 5 to 10, wherein the (the) surfactant (s) nonionic (s) of HLB value at 25 ° C greater than or equal to 8, comprises (include) an alcohol (poly ) Oxyalkylenated comprising at least one C 8 -C 24 fatty alcohol ether and polyethylene glycol, said ether comprising at least 20 ethylene glycol units, more preferably between 20 and 200 ethylene glycol units. 12. Composition according to any one of claims 5 to 11, wherein the (the) surfactant (s) nonionic (s) of HLB value at 25 ° C of formula (I) greater than or equal to 8 is (are) present (s) in a content greater than or equal to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 8 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 13. Composition according to any one of claims 5 to 12, wherein the (the) surfactant (s) nonionic (s) of HLB value at 25 ° C of formula (I) less than 8 is (are) present ( s) in a content greater than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 5 to 15%, in particular from 5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 14. Composition according to any one of claims 5 to 13, wherein the (the) surfactant (s) nonionic (s) of HLB value at 25 ° C less than 8 and the (the) surfactant (s) nonionic (s) (s) HLB value at 25 ° C greater than or equal to 8, are present in a total content ranging from 15 to 45%, more particularly ranging from 16 to 40%, more preferably from 16 to 35% by weight relative to total weight of the composition. 15. Composition according to any one of claims 5 to 14, wherein the (the) surfactant (s) nonionic (s) of HLB value at 25 ° C lower than 8 and the (the) surfactant (s) nonionic (s) (s) HLB value at 25 ° C greater than or equal to 8 preferably both of the formula (I) are present in a respective total content such that the weight ratio of the (s) surfactant (s) nonionic (s) (s) ) of HLB value at 25 ° C lower than 8 on the non-ionic surfactant (s) of HLB value at 25 ° C greater than or equal to 8 is 1/5 to 5, preferably 1 / 4 to 3, especially 1/3 to 3/2. 16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the wax (es) is (are) present in a total content ranging from 10 to 35%, preferably from 12 to 30%, in particularly from 15 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the total wax content (s) and the total content of the surfactant system are such that the weight ratio of the wax (es) to the surfactant system is less than or equal to 2, preferably strictly less than 1.5, in particular between 1/3 and 1.25. 18. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one film-forming polymer chosen from water-soluble film-forming polymers and film-forming polymers in aqueous dispersion, preferably from water-soluble film-forming polymers, the polymer (s) the film-forming agent (s) being preferably present in a solids content ranging from 0.1 to 10%, preferably from 0.5 to 8%, in particular from 1 to 5% by weight, relative to the weight total of said composition. 19. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one dyestuff chosen from one or more pulverulent material (s), preferably metal oxides, and in particular iron oxides. 20. A method of coating keratinous fibers, in particular eyelash makeup, comprising a step of applying to said keratinous fibers of a cosmetic composition for coating keratinous fibers according to any one of the preceding claims.