FR2976487A1 - COSMETIC COMPOSITION FOR COATING KERATINIC FIBERS OF THE EMULSION TYPE AND METHOD FOR COATING KERATIN FIBERS - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibers of the emulsion type, comprising: - an aqueous phase, - a waxy phase dispersed in the aqueous phase by means of an emulsifying system, and in which the emulsifying system comprises at least three surfactants comprising: at least one C -C, preferably C, alkoxylated ether of C -C fatty alcohols having from 1 to 150 alkoxy groups, at least one C -C alkoxylated ester, preferably C 1 -C fatty acid, comprising from 1 to 150 alkoxyl groups, and - at least one ester derived from at least one C -C fatty acid and from at least one (poly) primary hydroxyalkylamine . The present invention also relates to a process for coating keratinous fibers, in particular eyelash makeup, comprising a step of applying said cosmetic composition for coating keratinous fibers.

Description

Cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibers of the emulsion type and method for coating keratinous fibers

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for coating keratinous fibers, and in particular eyelashes or eyebrows. In particular, said cosmetic composition is a makeup composition and possibly an eyelash care product. The present invention also relates to a process for coating keratinous fibers, in particular a process for makeup and possibly care of the eyelashes.

The composition used may in particular be in the form of a product for eyelashes such as a mascara, or a product for the eyebrows. More preferably, the invention relates to a mascara. By "mascara" is meant a composition intended to be applied to the eyelashes: it may be an eyelash makeup composition, an eyelash makeup base (also called a base coat), a composition to be applied to an eyelash. mascara, also called top-coat, or else a composition for cosmetic treatment of eyelashes. Mascara is especially intended for human eyelashes, but also false eyelashes.

Mascaras are especially prepared according to two types of formulation: aqueous mascaras called cream mascaras, in the form of dispersion of waxes in water; anhydrous or low-water mascaras, so-called mascaras water-proofs, in the form of dispersions of waxes in organic solvents. The present application relates more specifically to so-called aqueous mascaras.

The compositions for coating keratinous fibers with such a type of mascara generally consist of at least one fatty phase generally formed of one or more waxes dispersed in an aqueous liquid phase by means of an emulsifying or conveyed system. (s) in an organic solvent. These compositions generally have a particular color effect, often black, related to the presence of pigments.

The application of mascara aims in particular to increase the volume of the eyelashes and consequently increase the intensity of the gaze. For this, there are many thickening or volumizing mascaras whose principle is to deposit the maximum material on the eyelashes so as to obtain this volumizing effect (or charging).

It is in particular through the quantity of solid particles (in particular waxes which make it possible to structure the composition) that the desired application specificities for the compositions can be adjusted, for example their fluidity or consistency, as well as their thickening power (also called power charging or makeup).

These solid particles are dispersed in the cream mascara using an emulsifying system composed of one or more surfactant (s).

Among the emulsifiers or conventional emulsifying systems, there are: cetyl phosphate, however the use of cetyl phosphate alone leads to an agglomeration of the pigments as well as to a coarse dispersion of the waxes; this frequently results in a "gray" and not black mascara; the emulsifying systems based on steareth-20 and steareth-2, however the use of these systems leads to very fluid mascaras whose consistency is unsatisfactory for a volumizing mascara; emulsifying systems based on cetyl phosphate and steareth-2; and emulsifying systems based on triethanolamine stearate.

An object of the present invention is therefore to obtain a composition for coating keratinous fibers, preferably a mascara, giving rise to a charging deposit or covering, of good volume on the eyelashes.

An object of the present invention also lies in the development of a keratinous fiber coating composition and a keratinous fiber coating process, with good hold on the eyelashes or eyebrows.

In particular, an object of the present invention is to provide a composition for coating keratinous fibers of good resistance, resistant to friction and / or water, especially to ambient humidity, tears, sweat and / or or sebum.

An object of the present invention is also to provide a composition for coating keratinous fibers allowing good separation of the eyelashes during its application, without the formation of bundles of eyelashes, and this by ensuring a deposit of smooth and regular material (without clusters of composition).

An object of the present application is more particularly to provide a mascara in which not only the waxes but also the pigments are homogeneously dispersed, said mascara having a sufficiently thick texture to obtain a charging deposit, conferring a good volume to the eyelashes, having a satisfactory consistency allowing easy application to the eyelashes and a regular deposit, it is smooth and homogeneous wax.

Surprisingly and unexpectedly, the inventors of the present application solved this problem (s) by means of a particular emulsifying system containing a combination of at least three agents or families of surfactants.

The inventors of the present application have been able to observe in particular that the emulsifying system defined in the present application allows a good dispersion of pigments and / or waxes, this dispersion is of the quality of those obtained with emulsifying systems based on triethanolamine stearate . This composition makes it possible to obtain a make-up loading keratinous fibers, a smooth and homogeneous deposit on said fibers, and a good separation of make-up lashes.

Accordingly, the subject of the present invention is a cosmetic composition for coating keratinous fibers, preferably eyelashes, preferably a mascara composition, of the emulsion type, preferably wax (es) in water, comprising: an aqueous phase, a waxy phase dispersed in the aqueous phase by means of an emulsifying system, in which the emulsifying system comprises at least three surfactants comprising: at least one C2-C8, preferably C2, alkoxylated ether of fatty alcohols; C8-C24 having from 1 to 150 alkoxyl groups inclusive, - at least one C2-C8, preferably C2-alkoxy, C8-C24 fatty acid ester, having from 1 to 150 alkoxyl groups, and at least one ester derived from at least one O16-C30 fatty acid and at least one primary (poly) hydroxyalkylamine.

By alkoxylated is meant a compound comprising one or more alkoxyl groups - (O-CH2-CH2) n-, ie one or more oxyethylene groups, or - (O-CH2-CH2-CH2) n-, ie one or more oxypropylene groups, preferably one or more oxyethylene groups.

Primary (poly) hydroxyalkylamine is understood to mean in particular a primary dihydroxyalkylamine, it being understood that by primary is meant a primary amine function, ie -NH2, and the alkyl group is a linear or branched C1-C8 hydrocarbon chain, preferably a branched C4, such as 1,3-dihydroxy-2-methylpropyl.

This composition thus gives rise to a thick mascara while maintaining a good dispersion of the pigments, a fine emulsion and a good result on application (loading and separating effect).

The subject of the present invention is also, according to a second aspect, a kit or kit for coating keratinous fibers comprising: at least one cosmetic composition for coating keratinous fibers as previously described, and at least one applicator of the composition, said applicator comprising means, optionally in relief, configured to engage with said keratinous fibers, such as eyelashes or eyebrows, to smooth and / or separate eyelashes or eyebrows. Such reliefs may include teeth, bristles or other. Said assembly, and in particular said applicator, may optionally be equipped with means for vibrating and / or heating said composition.

The subject of the present invention is also, according to a third aspect, an assembly or kit for conditioning and applying a composition for coating keratin fibers, comprising: a device for conditioning said cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibers, such as previously described, - an applicator of said composition.

Said applicator may be secured to a gripping member forming a cover for said conditioning device. In other words, said applicator can be mounted in a removable position on said device between a closed position and a position disengaged from a dispensing opening of the packaging device of said composition. The subject of the present invention is, according to a fourth aspect, a method of coating keratin fibers, and in particular eyelash makeup, comprising a step of applying a cosmetic composition for coating keratinous fibers as previously described.

According to particular preferred embodiments of the present invention: said C2-C8, preferably C2-alkoxylated ether (s), of C8-C24 fatty alcohols may comprise from 2 to 100 alkoxyl groups; more preferably from 2 to 30 alkoxy groups, more preferably from 2 to 20 alkoxy groups; the C2-C8 alkoxylated ether (s) of C8-C24 fatty alcohol may (or may) comprise a C12-C20 fatty alcohol, preferably a C16-C8 fatty alcohol; this (or these) C2-C8 alkoxylated ether of C8-C24 fatty alcohol may contain an oxyethylenated ether of stearyl alcohol of 2 to 100 oxyethylene units, better still 2 to 30 oxyethylene units, more preferably from 2 to 20 oxyethylene units; this (or these) C2-C8 alkoxylated ether of C8-C24 fatty alcohols may be present at a content greater than or equal to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 1 and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; the C2-C8 alkoxylated ester (s) of fatty acid, preferably C2, of C8-C24 fatty alcohols may contain, inclusive of, 20 to 60 alkoxyl groups, more preferably 40 alkoxyl groups; the said C2-C8 alkoxylated C8-C24 fatty acid ester may (or may) comprise a C12-C20 fatty acid, preferably a C16-C18 fatty acid; this (or these) C 8 -C 24 fatty acid alkoxylated C 2 -C 8 ester may (or may) comprise an oxyethylenated stearic acid ester of, inclusive, 20 to 60 oxyethylene units, more preferably 40 oxyethylene units ( still called PEG-40 stearate); this (or these) alkoxylated C 8 -C 24 fatty acid ester may be present in a content greater than or equal to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 1 and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; said ester derived from at least one C16-C30 fatty acid and from at least one primary (poly) hydroxyalkylamine may be derived from a C16-C18 fatty acid; this (or these) ester (s) derived from at least one C16-C30 fatty acid and from at least one primary (poly) hydroxyalkylamine may (or may be) derived from a primary dihydroxyalkylamine, the group alkyl being a linear or branched C1-C8 hydrocarbon chain, preferably a branched C4 hydrocarbon chain, such as 1,3-dihydroxy-2-methylpropyl; this (or these) ester (s) derived (s) from at least one C16-C30 fatty acid and from at least one (poly) hydroxyalkylamine primary may be 1,3-dihydroxy-2-methyl-2-propylamine stearate (still called AMPD stearate); this (or these) ester (s) derived (s) from at least one C16-C30 fatty acid and at least one (poly) primary hydroxyalkylamine may (or may) be present at a content greater than or equal to 0.1 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.5 and 2.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; the emulsifying system, formed by the combination of surfactants according to the present invention, may be present at a total content greater than 1% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition, preferably between 1.5 and 12.5% by weight; weight relative to the total weight of the composition; the emulsion may be of the wax-in-water type; said composition may comprise a fatty phase dispersed in the aqueous phase; - The fatty phase may comprise mainly waxes; said composition may comprise one or more waxes, preferably several; - this or these wax (s) can be chosen from among beeswax, lanolin wax, Chinese insect waxes, rice wax, carnauba wax, wax of Candelilla, Ouricurry wax, Alfa wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax, sumac wax, montan wax, microcrystalline wax, wax paraffin, ozokerite, polyethylene wax, waxes obtained by the Fisher-Tropsch synthesis, a C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy) stearate, the waxy copolymers and their esters, and the waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having C8-C32 fatty chains, linear or branched, waxes obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with stearyl alcohol, waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, silicone waxes such as alkyl or alkoxy dimethicone having 16 45 carbon atoms, fluorinated waxes, and their (s) mixture (s); said composition may comprise at least one wax chosen from candelilla wax, carnauba wax, beeswax, paraffin wax, polyethylene wax, rice wax, and their mixture (s) ; the wax (es) may be present at a content greater than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, better still at 7% by weight, or even 10% by weight; weight relative to the total weight of the composition; the emulsifying system used in the invention may constitute the main surfactant system of the cosmetic composition; the cosmetic composition comprises less than 1%, preferably less than 0.5% by weight of triethanolamine, or is free of triethanolamine; the cosmetic composition comprises at least one hydrophilic or lipophilic film-forming polymer and / or at least one hydrophilic gelling agent; the cosmetic composition may comprise at least one volatile or non-volatile oil, for example a hydrocarbon or silicone oil; - said composition may comprise at least one non-volatile oil, or not, for example hydrocarbon or silicone; the cosmetic composition may comprise at least one pulverulent dyestuff chosen from pigments, and preferably chosen from metal oxides, in particular iron oxides and titanium oxides; - The metal oxide (s) is (are) preferably present at a content greater than or equal to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, advantageously between 3 and 12 inclusive. % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; the composition may be a make-up composition, a make-up base, a so-called "top-coat" composition to be applied to a make-up, or a cosmetic treatment, care or keratinous fiber composition.

Other characteristics, properties and advantages of the present invention will emerge more clearly on reading the description and examples which follow.

Aqueous Phase The composition according to the invention comprises an aqueous phase, which can form a continuous phase of the composition. The aqueous phase comprises water. It may also comprise at least one water-soluble solvent. By "water-soluble solvent" is meant in the present invention a liquid compound at room temperature and miscible with water.

The water-soluble solvents that can be used in the compositions according to the invention can moreover be volatile. Among the water-soluble solvents that can be used in the compositions in accordance with the invention, there may be mentioned lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol and isopropanol, glycols having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms. carbon such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol and dipropylene glycol. The aqueous phase (water and optionally the solvent miscible with water) is generally present in the composition according to the present application in a content ranging from 20 to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 25 to 80% by weight, preferably ranging from 30 to 70% by weight, and more preferably from 35 to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Fat phase A fat phase according to the invention comprises at least one waxy phase. This waxy phase includes one or more wax (es). This fatty phase may also comprise constituents chosen in particular from at least one volatile oil, at least one non-volatile oil, and their mixture (s).

Said fatty phase may comprise predominantly waxes.

Waxy phase or wax (es) The wax (es) considered in the context of the present invention is (are) in general a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25 ° C.), reversible solid state / liquid change, having a melting point greater than or equal to 30 ° C up to 200 ° C and in particular up to 120 ° C. In particular, the waxes that are suitable for the invention may have a melting point greater than or equal to 45 ° C., and in particular greater than or equal to 55 ° C.

For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "DSC Q2000" by the company TA Instruments.

Preferably, the waxes have a melting enthalpy AHf greater than or equal to 70 J / g. Preferably, the waxes comprise at least one crystallizable part, visible by X-ray observations. The measurement protocol is as follows: A sample of 5 mg of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise of -20. ° C at 120 ° C, at the heating rate of 10 ° C / minute, then is cooled from 120 ° C to -20 ° C at a cooling rate of 10 ° C / minute and finally subjected to a second rise in temperature ranging from -20 ° C to 120 ° C at a heating rate of 5 ° C / minute. During the second rise in temperature, the following parameters are measured: the melting point (Tf) of the wax, as previously mentioned, corresponding to the temperature of the most endothermic peak of the observed melting curve, representing the variation of the difference in power absorbed as a function of temperature, - 4Hf: the melting enthalpy of the wax corresponding to the integral of the whole of the melting curve obtained. This enthalpy of fusion of the wax is the amount of energy required to pass the compound from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J / g. The wax (es) may be hydrocarbon (s), fluorinated (s) and / or silicone (s) and may be of vegetable, mineral, animal and / or synthetic origin.

The wax (es) may be present at a content greater than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, better still at 7% by weight, or even 10% by weight per relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, it (they) is (are) present (s) in a content ranging from 12 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, better from 14 to 35% and even better from 16 to 30% by weight. weight.

Hydrocarbon waxes such as beeswax, lanolin wax, and Chinese insect waxes can be preferably used as waxes; rice wax, Carnauba wax, Candelilla wax, Ouricurry wax, Alfa wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax ; montan wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffin wax and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers and their esters. Mention may also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched C8-C32 fatty chains.

Among these, there may be mentioned hydrogenated jojoba oil, isomerized jojoba oil such as trans isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil manufactured or marketed by Desert Whale under the trade reference ISO-JOJOBA-50 ®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil and hydrogenated lanolin oil, di- (trimethylol-1,1,1 propane) tetrastearate sold under the name " HEST 2T-4S "by the company HETERENE, the tetrahenate di- (trimethylol-1,1,1 propane) sold under the name HEST 2T-4B by the company HETERENE. Mention may also be made of silicone waxes such as alkyl or alkoxydimetone having from 16 to 45 carbon atoms, fluorinated waxes.

It is also possible to use the wax obtained by hydrogenation of esterified olive oil with the stearyl alcohol sold under the name "PHYTOWAX Olive 18 L 57" or even the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with alcohol. cetyl sold under the name "PHYTOWAX ricin 16L64 and 22L73", by the company SOPHIM. Such waxes are described in application FR-A-2792190. The composition may comprise at least one apolar wax. Preferably, the wax or waxes comprise one or more apolar waxes chosen from polyethylene wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite and their mixture (s). (s). The composition may comprise at least one polar wax. By "polar wax" is meant waxes comprising in their chemical structure, in addition to the carbon and hydrogen atoms, at least one highly electronegative heteroatom, such as O, N or P. Preferably, the wax or waxes ( (s) has one or more polar wax (s) selected from carnauba wax, candelilla wax, natural (or bleached) beeswax and synthetic beeswax, and s) mixture (s). As synthetic beeswax, mention may be made of the wax sold under the name Cyclochem 326 A by Evonik Goldschmidt (INCI name: Synthetic Beeswax). Preferably, the composition comprises a mixture of polar wax (es) and non-polar wax (es). The composition may comprise at least one wax having a hardness ranging from 0.05 MPa to 15 MPa, and preferably ranging from 6 MPa to 15 MPa. The hardness is determined by measuring the compression force measured at 20 ° C. using the texturometer sold under the name TA-TX2i by the company RHEO, equipped with a stainless steel cylinder with a diameter of 2 mm. moving at the measuring speed of 0.1 mm / s, and penetrating into the wax at a penetration depth of 0.3 mm. According to one particular embodiment, the compositions in accordance with the invention may comprise at least one so-called sticking wax, that is to say having a tack greater than or equal to 0.7 Ns and a hardness of less than or equal to 3, 5 MPa. The use of such a tacky wax may in particular make it possible to obtain a cosmetic composition which is easily applied to the eyelashes, having good grip on the eyelashes and which leads to the formation of a smooth, homogeneous makeup and thickening.

The tacky wax used may in particular have a tack ranging from 0.7 Ns to 30 Ns, in particular greater than or equal to 1 Ns, in particular ranging from 1 Ns to 20 Ns, in particular greater than or equal to 2 Ns, in particular ranging from 2 Ns at 10 Ns, and in particular ranging from 2 Ns to 5 Ns The stickiness of the wax is determined by measuring the evolution of the force (compressive force or stretching force) as a function of time, at 20 ° C. using the texturometer sold under the name "TA-TX2i" ® "by the company RHEO, equipped with a mobile cone-shaped acrylic polymer forming an angle of 45 °. The measurement protocol is as follows: The wax is melted at a temperature equal to the melting point of the wax + 10 ° C. The melted wax is poured into a container 25 mm in diameter and 20 mm deep. The wax is recrystallized at room temperature (25 ° C) for 24 hours so that the surface of the wax is flat and smooth, then the wax is kept for at least 1 hour at 20 ° C before measuring. tights. The mobile of the texturometer is moved at a speed of 0.5 mm / s, then penetrates into the wax to a depth of penetration of 2 mm. When the mobile penetrated the wax to the depth of 2 mm, the mobile is held stationary for 1 second (corresponding to the relaxation time) and then removed at a speed of 0.5 mm / s. During the relaxation time, the force (compression force) decreases sharply until it becomes zero and then, when the mobile is removed, the force (stretching force) becomes negative and then increases again to the value 0. The pantyhose corresponds to the integral of the force vs. time curve for the part of the curve corresponding to the negative values of the force (stretching force). The value of the sticky is expressed in N.s.

The tacky wax that can be used generally has a hardness of less than or equal to 3.5 MPa, in particular ranging from 0.01 MPa to 3.5 MPa, in particular ranging from 0.05 MPa to 3 MPa, or even from 0 to 1 MPa at 2.5 MPa. The hardness is measured according to the protocol described above. As sticky wax, a C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy) stearate (the alkyl group comprising 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or in a mixture, in particular a 12- (12'-hydroxystearyloxy) stearate, may be used. C20-C40 alkyl of formula (II): ## STR1 ## wherein m is an integer ranging from 18 to 20; 38, or a mixture of compounds of formula (II). Such a wax is especially sold under the names "Kester Wax K 82 P®" and "Kester Wax K 80 P®" by the company Koster Keunen. The waxes mentioned above generally have an initial melting point below 45 ° C. It is also possible to use the microcrystalline wax sold under the reference SP18 by the company Strahl and Pitsch, which has a hardness of approximately 0.46 MPa and a tack value of approximately 1 N.sup.3. The wax (es) may be present in the form of an aqueous microdispersion of wax. By aqueous microdispersion of wax is meant an aqueous dispersion of wax particles in which the size of said wax particles is less than or equal to about 1 μm. Microdispersions of wax are stable dispersions of colloidal wax particles, and are especially described in "Microemulsions Theory and Practice", L. M. Prince Ed., Academic Press (1977) pages 21-32. In particular, these microdispersions of wax can be obtained by melting the wax in the presence of a surfactant, and optionally a portion of the water, and then gradually adding hot water with stirring. The intermediate formation of a water-in-oil emulsion is observed, followed by a phase inversion with final obtaining of an oil-in-water type microemulsion. On cooling, a stable microdispersion of solid colloidal particles of wax is obtained. The microdispersions of wax can also be obtained by stirring the mixture of wax, surfactant and water using stirring means such as ultrasound, the high-pressure homogenizer, the turbines. The particles of the microdispersion of wax preferably have average dimensions of less than 1 μm (in particular ranging from 0.02 μm to 0.99 μm), preferably less than 0.5 μm (in particular ranging from 0.06 μm to 0 μm). , 5 pm).

Oil or organic solvent The compositions according to the present application may also contain one or more oil (s) or organic solvent (s). By "oil" is meant a liquid fatty substance at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one volatile oil and / or at least one non-volatile oil, and their mixtures.

Volatile oil The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one volatile oil. By "volatile oil" is meant an oil (or non-aqueous medium) capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil, liquid at room temperature. More specifically, a volatile oil has an evaporation rate of between 0.01 and 200 mg / cm 2 / min, inclusive.

To measure this evaporation rate is introduced into a crystallizer, with a diameter of 7 cm, placed on a scale located in a large chamber of about 0.3 m 3 regulated in temperature, at a temperature of 25 ° C., and in hygrometry, at a relative humidity of 50%, 15 g of oil or oil mixture to be tested. The liquid is allowed to evaporate freely, without stirring, providing ventilation by a fan (PAPST-MOTOREN, reference 8550 N, rotating at 2700 revolutions per minute) arranged in a vertical position above the crystallizer containing said oil or said mixture, the blades being directed to the crystallizer and at a distance of 20cm from the bottom of the crystallizer. The mass of oil remaining in the crystallizer is measured at regular intervals.

The evaporation rates are expressed in mg of evaporated oil per unit area (cm2) and per unit of time (minute).

This volatile oil can be hydrocarbon-based. The volatile hydrocarbon oil may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils having from 7 to 16 carbon atoms. The composition according to the invention may contain one or more branched alkane (s) volatile (s). By "one or more branched alkane (s) volatile (s)" is meant indifferently "one or more volatile branched alkane (s) oil (s)".

As hydrocarbon-based volatile oil having from 7 to 16 carbon atoms, mention may be made in particular of branched C 8 -C 16 alkanes such as iso-alkanes (also known as isoparaffins) at C 8 -C 16, isododecane, isodecane and isohexadecane and for example the oils sold under the trade names of Isopars or permetyls, branched C8-C16 esters such as isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the hydrocarbonaceous volatile oil having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms is chosen from isododecane, isodecane and isohexadecane, and mixtures thereof, and is especially isododecane. The composition according to the invention may contain one or more volatile linear alkane (s). By "one or more volatile linear alkane (s)" is meant indifferently "one or more volatile linear alkane (s) oil (s)". A volatile linear alkane suitable for the invention is liquid at ambient temperature (about 25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). By "volatile linear alkane" suitable for the invention is meant a linear cosmetic alkane, capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm). Hg, that is to say 101 325 Pa), liquid at room temperature, especially having an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 15 mg / cm 2 / min, at room temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure. (760 mmHg). Linear alkanes, preferably of plant origin, comprising from 7 to 15 carbon atoms, in particular from 9 to 14 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 11 to 13 carbon atoms. By way of example of a linear alkane which is suitable for the invention, mention may be made of the alkanes described in the patent applications of the company Cognis WO 2007/068371, or WO2008 / 155059 (distinct alkane mixtures and differing from less a carbon). These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, themselves obtained from coconut oil or palm oil. By way of example of a linear alkane suitable for the invention, mention may be made of n-heptane (C7), n-octane (C8), n-nonane (C9), n-decane (C10), n-undecane (C11), ndodecane (C12), n-tridecane (C13), n-tetradecane (C14), pentadecane (C15), and mixtures thereof, and in particular the n-undecane mixture (Cl 1) and n-tridecane (C13) described in Example 1 of the application WO2008 / 155059 of the Cognis Company. Mention may also be made of n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97, as well as their mixtures. The linear alkane may be used alone or as a mixture of at least two different alkanes and differing from each other by a carbon number of at least 1, and in particular a mixture of at least two linear alkanes containing from 10 to 14 carbon atoms. carbon atoms differing from each other by a carbon number of at least 2, and in particular a mixture of volatile linear C11 / C13 alkanes or a mixture of linear C12 / C14 alkanes, in particular a n-butyl mixture. undecane / n-tridecane (such a mixture can be obtained according to Example 1 or Example 2 of WO 2008/155059).

Alternatively or additionally, the composition produced may comprise at least one volatile silicone oil or solvent compatible with a cosmetic use. By silicone oil is meant an oil containing at least one silicon atom, and in particular containing Si-O groups. According to one embodiment, said composition comprises less than 10% by weight of non-volatile silicone oil (s), relative to the total weight of the composition, better still less than 5% by weight, or even is free from silicone oil. As silicone volatile oil, mention may be made of cyclic polysiloxanes, linear polysiloxanes and mixtures thereof. Volatile linear polysiloxanes that may be mentioned include hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, tetradecamethylhexasiloxane and hexadecamethylheptasiloxane. Cyclic volatile polysiloxanes that may be mentioned include hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane.

Alternatively or additionally, the composition produced may comprise at least one volatile fluorinated oil. By fluorinated oil is meant an oil containing at least one fluorine atom.

As fluorinated volatile oil, there may be mentioned nonafluoromethoxybutane or perfluoromethylcyclopentane, and mixtures thereof.

The volatile oil may be present in a content ranging from 0.05% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight, and preferably ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight. in weight. In particular, the volatile oil may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.2 to 20%, preferably 0.5 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. According to a preferred variant, the composition is free of volatile oil.

Non-volatile oil The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one non-volatile oil. "Non-volatile oil" means an oil remaining on the skin or keratin fiber at room temperature and pressure. More specifically, a non-volatile oil has an evaporation rate strictly less than 0.01 mg / cm 2 / min.

Said at least one non-volatile oil that is suitable for the present invention may be chosen from hydrocarbon oils and silicone oils. The non-volatile hydrocarbon oils that are suitable for the present invention may in particular be chosen from: hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as triglycerides consisting of esters of fatty acids and of glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths various C4 to C28, the latter being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils include wheat germ, sunflower, grape seed, sesame, maize, apricot, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soya, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cotton, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, sesame, pumpkin, rapeseed, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, bancoulier, passiflora, muscat rose; or alternatively caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, such as those sold by Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by the company Sasol; synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms; linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, and squalane, and mixtures thereof; synthetic esters such as the oils of formula R 1 COOR 2 in which R 1 represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R 2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, especially branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms with the proviso that R1 + R2 is> 10, such as, for example, purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate, laurate. hexyl, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearate isostearate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate ; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters - branched-chain and / or unsaturated carbon-chain liquid fatty alcohols having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyl dodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol; higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and mixtures thereof. The nonvolatile silicone oils that are suitable for the present invention may in particular be chosen from: the non-volatile silicone oils that may be used in the composition in accordance with the invention may be non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl groups or alkoxy, pendant and / or silicone chain end, groups each having 2 to 24 carbon atoms, phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates.

The content of oil or non-volatile organic solvent in the composition according to the invention may range from 0.01 to 30% by weight, in particular from 0.1 to 25% by weight, and preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight. % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably a nonvolatile silicone oil.

According to a preferred variant, the composition may be free of non-volatile oil. According to a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises less than 5% by weight of oil (s), and more preferably is free of volatile oil and non-volatile oil.

Emulsifying system Association of surfactants according to the invention The compositions according to the invention comprise an emulsifying system. This emulsifying system comprises in association a plurality of surfactants. The surfactants used in the composition according to the invention comprise: at least one C2-C8, preferably C2-alkoxylated ether, of C8-C24 fatty alcohols, preferably of C12-C20, more preferably of C16-C20; C18, such an ether preferably comprises from 1 to 150 alkoxy groups C2-C8, preferably C2, preferably inclusive of 2 to 100 alkoxy groups C2-C8, preferably C2; the alkoxyl groups are preferably oxyethylene units; this ether is advantageously chosen from oxyethylenated ether of stearyl alcohol with 2 oxyethylene units (CTFA name "Steareth-2"), such as BRIJ 72 sold by the company UNIQEMA, styrene alcohol oxyethylenated ether with 20 units oxyethylene (CTFA name "Steareth-20") such as BRIJ 78 marketed by the company UNIQEMA, oxyethylenated ether of cetyl alcohol with 30 oxyethylene units (CTFA name "Ceteareth-30"), oxyethylenated ether of the mixture of C12-C15 fatty alcohols comprising 7 oxyethylene units (CTFA name "C12-15 Pareth-7"), such as that sold under the name NEODOL 25-7® by Shell Chemicals, and their mixture, and preferably is the oxyethylenated ether stearyl alcohol with 20 oxyethylene units; this (or these) C2-C8 alkoxylated ether of C8-C24 fatty alcohols may be present at a content greater than or equal to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 1 and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; at least one C 2 -C 8, preferably C 2 -C 8, alkoxylated ester of C 8 -C 24 fatty acid, inclusive of from 1 to 150 C 2 -C 8 alkoxy groups, preferably C 2, more preferably from 20 to 60 groups; alkoxyls; said alkoxyl groups are preferably oxyethylene units; this ester is advantageously chosen from PEG-50 stearate and PEG-40 monostearate marketed under the name MYRJ 52P® by the company UNIQEMA, and their mixture; this (or these) alkoxylated C 8 -C 24 fatty acid ester may be present in a content greater than or equal to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 1 and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; at least one ester derived from at least one C16-C30 fatty acid, preferably C18 fatty acid, and at least one primary (poly) hydroxyalkylamine, preferably a primary dihydroxyalkylamine having as its alkyl group a C1-C6 hydrocarbon chain; C8, linear or branched, preferably a branched C4 hydrocarbon chain, such as 1,3-dihydroxy-2-methylpropyl; this (or these) ester (s) derived (s) from at least one C16-C30 fatty acid and from at least one (poly) hydroxyalkylamine primary may be 1,3-dihydroxy-2-methyl-2-propylamine stearate (also called 2-amino-2-methylpropane-1,3-diol stearate or more generally AMPD stearate); this (or these) ester (s) derived (s) from at least one C16-C30 fatty acid and at least one (poly) primary hydroxyalkylamine may (or may) be present at a content greater than or equal to 0.1 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.5 and 2.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. These surfactants provide a good fat-water phase emulsion, in particular wax (s) -in-water, which is stable and in particular gives the composition a viscosity suitable for obtaining a sheathing deposit, regular and separating. The value of HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) in the sense of GRIFFIN is defined in J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (volume 5), pages 249-256. These surfactants according to the invention are advantageously present in a total content ranging from 1.5 to 12.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In particular, these surfactants according to the invention may be present at a content greater than or equal to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular ranging from 3% to 10%, better still 4% to 9% by weight. weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Such contents ensure a good emulsion of the fatty phase in the aqueous phase and in particular waxes in the aqueous phase.

This combination of surfactants constitutes the emulsifying system, or surfactant system, principal of the composition.

By "main surfactant system" is meant a system which, in its absence, does not lead to the formation of a stable composition. By "stable" is meant a composition which, after having been placed in an oven at 45 ° C. for two months, does not show, after returning to ambient temperature, grains perceptible to the touch, when a thin layer of the composition is sheared between the fingers. According to a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the present application comprises less than 1%, preferably less than 0.5% by weight of triethanolamine, and better still, is free of triethanolamine. According to a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the present application comprises less than 1%, preferably less than 0.5% by weight of triethanolamine stearate, and better still, is free of triethanolamine stearate.

Aqent (s) Additional Surfactant (s) The cosmetic compositions according to the invention may further comprise one or more additional surfactant (s), ie other (s) than those responding to surfactants. according to the definitions of the present invention. This (these) additional surfactant (s) may be chosen from nonionic, anionic, cationic and amphoteric surfactants. Reference can be made to "Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, KIRK-OTHMER", Vol. 22, p. 333-432, 5th edition, 1979, WILEY, for the definition of the properties and emulsifying functions of surfactants, in particular p. 347-377 of this reference, for anionic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants. a) additional nonionic surfactants with an HLB greater than or equal to 8 at 25 ° C, used alone or as a mixture; mention may be made in particular of: glycerol ethers, oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated, which can comprise from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene units; fatty acid esters, especially of C 8 -C 24, and preferably of C 16 -C 22, and of oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated glycerol ethers (which may contain from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene units), such as polyoxyethylenated glyceryl monostearate with 200 oxyethylene units, sold under the name Simulsol 220 TM® by the company SEPPIC; polyoxyethylenated glyceryl stearate with 30 oxyethylene units, such as the product TAGAT S® sold by the company GOLDSCHMIDT, the polyoxyethylenated glyceryl oleate with 30 oxyethylene units, such as the product TAGAT O® sold by the company GOLDSCHMIDT, the polyoxyethylated glyceryl cocoate 30 oxyethylene units, such as the product VARIONIC LI 13® sold by the company SHEREX, the polyoxyethylenated glyceryl isostearate with 30 oxyethylene units, such as the product TAGAT L® sold by the company GOLDSCHMIDT and the polyoxyethylenated glyceryl laurate with 30 oxyethylene units, such as the product TAGAT 1® from GOLDSCHMIDT; the fatty acid esters, in particular C 8 -C 24, and preferably C 16 -C 22, and oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylene sorbitol ethers (which may comprise from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene units), such as polysorbate 60 sold under the name Tween 60® by the company Uniqema; dimethicone copolyol, such as that sold under the name Q2-5220® by the company Dow Corning; dimethicone copolyol benzoate, such as that sold under the name FINSOLV SLB 101® and 201® by the company FINTEX; copolymers of propylene oxide and ethylene oxide, also called EO / PO polycondensates, and mixtures thereof. The EO / PO polycondensates are more particularly copolymers consisting of polyethylene glycol and polypropylene glycol blocks, such as, for example, polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol / polyethylene glycol triblock polycondensates. These triblock polycondensates have, for example, the following chemical structure: H- (O-CH 2 -CH 2) (O-CH (CH 3) -CH 2) b- (O-CH 2 -CH 2) a-OH, in which a is from 2 at 120, and b ranges from 1 to 100. The EO / PO polycondensates preferably have a weight average molecular weight ranging from 1,000 to 15,000, and better still from 2,000 to 13,000. Advantageously, said EO / OP polycondensates have a cloud temperature, at 10 g / l in distilled water, greater than or equal to 20 ° C, preferably greater than or equal to 60 ° C. The cloud temperature is measured according to the ISO 1065 standard. As polycondensate EO / PO that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of the polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol / polyethylene glycol triblock polycondensates sold under the trade names SYNPERONIC® such as SYNPERONIC PE / L44®. and SYNPERONIC PE / F127® by ICI. b) additional nonionic surfactants with a HLB of less than 8 at 25 ° C., optionally combined with one or more nonionic surfactants with a HLB of greater than 8 at 25 ° C., as mentioned above, such as: and dies ethers such as sucrose stearate, sucrose cocoate, sorbitan stearate and mixtures thereof, for example Arlatone 2121® marketed by ICI or SPAN 65V by the company UNIQEMA; esters of fatty acids, in particular of C 8 -C 24, and preferably of C 16 -C 22, and of polyol, in particular glycerol or sorbitol, such as glyceryl stearate, for example sold under the name TEGIN M® by the company GOLDSCHMIDT, glyceryl laurate such as the product sold under the name IMWITOR 312® by the company HULS, polyglyceryl-2 stearate, sorbitan tristearate, and glyceryl ricinoleate; the mixture of cyclomethicone / dimethicone copolyol sold under the name Q2-3225C® by the company Dow Corning; c) additional anionic surfactants such as: salts of polyoxyethylenated fatty acids, in particular amine salts or alkali metal salts, and mixtures thereof; the phosphoric esters and their salts, and in particular the C14-C24 alkyl, preferably C16-C18, alkyl phosphates and mixtures thereof, in particular they may be chosen from DEA oleth-10 phosphate (Crodafos N). 10N from CRODA), cetyl phosphate (Amphisol K from Givaudan or ARLATONE MAP 160K from UNIQEMA), stearyl phosphate and cetearyl phosphate; sulphosuccinates such as "Disodium PEG-5 citrate lauryl sulphosuccinate" and "Disodium ricinoleamido MEA sulphosuccinate"; alkyl ether sulfates, such as sodium lauryl ether sulphate; isethionates; acylglutamates, such as "Disodium hydrogenated tallow glutamate" (AMISOFT HS-21 R® marketed by the company AJINOMOTO), and mixtures thereof.

As examples of cationic surfactants, mention may be made in particular of: alkylimidazolidiniums such as isostearylmethylimidonium ethosulphate, ammonium salts such as (C 12-30 alkyl) -tri halides ( C1-4 alkyl) ammonium such as N, N, N-trimethyl-1-docosanaminium chloride (or Behentrimonium chloride). The compositions according to the invention may also contain one or more amphoteric surfactants such as N-acylamino acids such as N-alkylaminoacetates and disodium cocoamphodiacetate, and amine oxides such as stearamine oxide, or surfactants. silicones such as dimethicone copolyols phosphates such as that sold under the name PECOSIL PS 100® by the company Phoenix Chemical. This (these) additional surfactant (s) may be present in the composition at a content of between 0 and 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Co-surfactant (s) According to a particular embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one co-surfactant. These (these) co-surfactant (s) is (are) advantageously chosen from fatty alcohols. The fatty alcohol (s) comprises (include) from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 26 carbon atoms, more preferably from 10 to 24 carbon atoms and more preferably from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

This (these) co-surfactant (s) may (may) be present in the composition at a content of between 0.1 and 5% by weight, better still between 0.5 and 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Film-forming polymer The compositions according to the present application may also contain at least one hydrophilic or lipophilic film-forming polymer. In the present application, the term "film-forming polymer" means a polymer capable of forming on its own or in the presence of a film-forming auxiliary agent, a macroscopically continuous and adherent film on the eyelashes, and preferably a cohesive film, and more preferably a film whose cohesion and mechanical properties are such that said film can be isolatable and manipulable in isolation, for example when said film is produced by casting on a non-stick surface such as a Teflon or silicone surface. In general, the dry matter content of "film-forming polymer" of the compositions according to the present application ranges from 0.1 to 40%, preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight and better still from 1 to 20% by weight. relative to the total weight of the composition, the hydrophilic film-forming polymer may be a water-soluble polymer or may be dispersed in an aqueous medium. Among the film-forming polymers that can be used in the composition of the present invention, mention may be made of synthetic polymers, of free-radical type or of polycondensate type, polymers of natural origin, and mixtures thereof. Examples of water-soluble film-forming polymers that may be mentioned include: proteins, such as proteins of vegetable origin, such as wheat or soy proteins; proteins of animal origin such as keratins, for example keratin hydrolysates and keratin sulfonates; cellulose polymers such as hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, methylcellulose, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose, as well as the quaternized derivatives of cellulose; acrylic polymers or copolymers, such as polyacrylates or polymethacrylates; vinyl polymers, such as polyvinylpyrrolidones, copolymers of methylvinyl ether and of malic anhydride, the copolymer of vinyl acetate and crotonic acid, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinyl acetate; copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and caprolactam; polyvinyl alcohol; anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic chitin or chitosan polymers; gum arabic, guar gum, xanthan derivatives, karaya gum; alginates and carrageenans; glycoaminoglycans, hyaluronic acid and its derivatives; - shellac resin, sandaraque gum, dammars, elemis, copals; Deoxyribonucleic acid; - Muccopolysaccharides such as chondroitin sulfate, and mixtures thereof. The film-forming polymer may also be present in the composition in the form of particles dispersed in an aqueous phase, generally known as latex or pseudolatex. The techniques for preparing these dispersions are well known to those skilled in the art. As the aqueous dispersion of film-forming polymer, it is possible to use the acrylic dispersions sold under the names Neocryl XK-90®, Neocryl A-1070®, Neocryl A-1090®, Neocryl® BT-62®, Neocryl A-1079® and Neocryl A- 523® by the company AVECIA-NEORESINS, Dow Latex 432® by the company DOW CHEMICAL, Daitosol 5000 AD® or Daitosol 5000 SJ® by the company DAITO KASEY KOGYO; Syntran 5760® by Interpolymer Allianz Opt® by Rohm and Haas or the aqueous polyurethane dispersions sold under the names Neorez R-981® and Neorez R-974® by the company Avecia-Neoresins, Avalure UR-405 ®, Avalure 25 UR-410®, Avalure UR-425®, Avalure UR-450®, Sancure 875®, Avalure UR-445® and Sancure 2060® by the company NOVEON, Impranil 85® by the company BAYER, Aquamere H- 1511® by the company HYDROMER; the sulpopolyesters sold under the trade name Eastman AQ® by Eastman Chemical Products, vinyl dispersions such as Mexomer PAM®, aqueous polyvinyl acetate dispersions such as "Vinybran®" from Nisshin Chemical or those marketed by the company; UNION CARBIDE, the aqueous dispersions of terpolymer vinyl pyrrolidone, dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide and lauryldimethylpropylmethacrylamidoammonium chloride such as Styleze W-ISP, aqueous dispersions of polyurethane / polyacrylic hybrid polymers such as those sold under the references "Hybridur®" by the company AIR PRODUCTS or "Duromer®" of NATIONAL STARCH, dispersions type core / shell: for example those sold by ATOFINA under the reference Kynar (core: fluorinated shell: acrylic) or those described in US 5,188 899 (core, silica - shell: silicone) and mixtures thereof. The lipophilic polymer may be in solution or in dispersion in a non-aqueous solvent phase.

Hydrophilic Gelling Agents The compositions according to the present application may also contain at least one hydrophilic gelling agent, they may be chosen from: homo or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acids or their salts and esters and in particular the products sold under the names VERSICOL F® or VERSICOL K® by ALLIED COLLOID, UTRAHOLD 8® by CIBA-GEIGY, polyacrylic acids of SYNTHALEN K type, copolymers of acrylic acid and acrylamide sold in the form of their sodium salt. sodium under the names RETEN® by Hercules, the sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids sold under the name HYDAGEN F® by HENKEL, - polyacrylic acid / alkyl acrylate copolymers of PEMULEN type, - AMPS ( Polyacrylamidomethyl propanesulfonic acid partially neutralized with ammonia and highly crosslinked) marketed by the company CLARIANT, - copolymers res AMPS / acrylamide SEPIGEL® type or SIMULGEL® marketed by Seppic, and - copolymers of AMPS / polyoxyethylenated alkyl methacrylate (crosslinked or not), and mixtures thereof. Associative polymers and in particular associative polyurethanes, such as the C16-OE120-C16 polymer from the company Servo Delden (marketed under the name Ser AD FX1100, urethane function molecule and weight average molecular weight of 1300), OE being an oxyethylenated unit, the urea-functional Rheolate 205 sold by the company Rheox or else the Rheolate 208 or 204 (these polymers being sold in pure form) or the DW 1206B from RHOM & HAAS with a C20 alkyl chain and with a urethane bond, sold at 20% active ingredient in water. It is also possible to use solutions or dispersions of these associative polyurethanes, especially in water or in a hydroalcoholic medium. By way of example, such polymers include SER AD fx1010, SER AD FX1035 and SER AD 1070 from SERVO DELDEN, Rheolate 255, Rheolate 278 and Rheolate 244 sold by RHEOX. It is also possible to use the product DW 1206F and DW 1206J, as well as Acrysol RM 184 or Acrysol 44 from Rhom & Haas, or even Borchigel LW 44 from Borchers, and their mixtures. Certain water-soluble film-forming polymers mentioned above can also act as water-soluble gelling agent. The hydrophilic gelling agents may be present in the compositions according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.05 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 to 20% and better still from 0.5. at 15% by weight.

Dyestuffs The compositions in accordance with the invention comprise at least one dyestuff. This (or these) dyestuff (s) is (or are) preferably chosen from pulverulent materials, liposoluble dyes, water-soluble dyes, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one pulverulent dyestuff. The pulverulent dyestuffs may be chosen from pigments and nacres, preferably from pigments. The pigments may be white or colored, mineral and / or organic, coated or uncoated. Mention may be made, among mineral pigments, of metal oxides, in particular titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, oxides of zirconium, zinc or cerium, and also oxides of iron, titanium or chromium, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue. Among the organic pigments, mention may be made of carbon black, D & C type pigments, and lacquers based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum. The nacres may be chosen from white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

Liposoluble dyes are for example Sudan Red, D & C Red 17, D & C Green 6, 6-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, D & C Yellow 11, D & C Violet 2, D & C Orange 5, the yellow quinoline, the annatto. Preferably, the pigments contained in the compositions according to the invention are chosen from metal oxides.

These dyestuffs may be present in a content ranging from 0.01 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 3 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the dye (s) is (are) chosen from one or more metal oxide (s) present (s) at a content greater than or equal to 2% by weight relative to total weight of the composition, advantageously between 3 and 12% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

Charges The compositions according to the invention may also comprise at least one filler. The fillers may be selected from those well known to those skilled in the art and commonly used in cosmetic compositions. The fillers can be mineral or organic, lamellar or spherical. Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, polyamide powders such as Nylon® sold under the name Orgasol® by Atochem, poly-13-alanine and polyethylene, and tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders. such as Teflon®, lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride, expanded polymeric hollow microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile such as those sold under the name Expancel® by Nobel Industrie, acrylic powders such as those sold under the name Polytrap® by the company Dow Corning, polymethyl methacrylate particles and silicone resin microspheres (Toshiba's Tospearls®, for example), precipitated calcium carbonate, carbonate and magnesium hydro-carbonate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres (MAPRECOS Silica Beads®), microcapsules of glass or metallic amines derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, and in particular from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate. It is also possible to use a compound capable of swelling with heat and in particular thermally expandable particles such as unexpanded microspheres of copolymer of vinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile / methyl methacrylate or copolymer of acrylonitrile homopolymer, for example those sold respectively under the references Expancel® 820 DU 40 and Expancel®007WU by the company AKZO NOBEL.

The fillers may represent from 0.1 to 25%, in particular from 0.2 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Fibers The compositions in accordance with the invention may also comprise at least one fiber which makes it possible to improve the lengthening effect. By "fiber" it is necessary to understand an object of length L and of diameter D such that L is much greater than D, D being the diameter of the circle in which the section of the fiber is inscribed. In particular, the L / D ratio (or form factor) is chosen in the range from 3.5 to 2500, in particular from 5 to 500, and more particularly from 5 to 150.

The fibers that can be used in the composition of the invention may be fibers of synthetic or natural, mineral or organic origin. They can be short or long, unitary or organized, for example braided, hollow or full. Their shape can be any and in particular of circular or polygonal section (square, hexagonal or octagonal) depending on the specific application envisaged. In particular, their ends are blunt and / or polished to avoid injury. In particular, the fibers have a length ranging from 1 μm to 10 mm, in particular from 0.1 mm to 5 mm and more particularly from 0.3 mm to 3.5 mm. Their section may be in a circle with a diameter ranging from 2 nm to 500 μm, in particular ranging from 100 nm to 100 μm and more particularly from 1 μm to 50 μm. The weight or titer of the fibers is often given in denier or decitex and represents the weight in gram for 9 km of yarn. The fibers according to the invention may in particular have a title chosen in the range from 0.15 to 30 denier and in particular from 0.18 to 18 denier. The fibers that can be used in the composition of the invention may be chosen from rigid or non-rigid fibers, they may be of synthetic or natural origin, mineral or organic. Furthermore, the fibers may or may not be treated on the surface, coated or uncoated, colored or unstained. As fibers that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of non-rigid fibers such as polyamide (Nylon®) fibers or rigid fibers such as polyimide-amide fibers, such as those sold under the name KERMEL® KERMEL TECH® by RHODIA or poly- (p-phenyleneterephthalamide) (or aramid) sold especially under the name Kevlar® by the company DUPONT DE NEMOURS.

The fibers may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 0.1% to 5% by weight, and more particularly from 0.3% to 3% by weight.

Cosmetic active ingredients The compositions in accordance with the invention may also comprise at least one cosmetic active agent. As cosmetic active agents that can be used in the compositions in accordance with the invention, mention may in particular be made of antioxidants, preservatives, perfumes, neutralizers, emollients, thickeners, coalescing agents, plasticizers, moisturizers and vitamins. and especially solar filters, and mixtures thereof. Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional additives and / or their amount so that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially impaired by the addition envisaged. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is not rinsed. Advantageously, the composition is a makeup composition and in particular a mascara.

The following examples are given by way of illustration of the present invention, and can not limit the scope thereof.

ASSEMBLY A keratin fiber coating assembly adapted to the invention may comprise an applicator configured to apply said cosmetic composition for coating keratinous fibers, and if necessary a conditioning device adapted to receive said composition.

Applicator The applicator comprises means for smoothing and / or separating the keratin fibers, such as eyelashes or eyebrows, especially in the form of teeth, bristles or other reliefs. The applicator is arranged to apply the composition to the eyelashes or the eyebrows, and may comprise for example a brush or a comb. The applicator can still be used for makeup finishing, on a region of eyelashes or eyebrows made up or loaded with the composition.

The brush may comprise a twisted core and bristles caught between the turns of the core, or be carried out otherwise. The comb is for example made in one piece by molding plastic material. In some exemplary embodiments, the applicator element is mounted at the end of a rod, which may be flexible, which may contribute to improving comfort at the application.

Packaging device The packaging device comprises a container intended to house the coating composition of the keratinous fibers. This composition can then be taken from the container by immersing the applicator therein. This applicator may be integral with a closure element of the container. This closure element may form a gripping member of the applicator. This gripping member may form a cap to removably mount on said container by any suitable means such as screwing, latching, fitting or other. Such a container can thus reversibly accommodate said applicator. This container may optionally be equipped with a wiper adapted to rid a surplus of product taken by the applicator.

A process for applying the composition according to the invention to the eyelashes or the eyebrows may also comprise the following steps: forming a deposit of the cosmetic composition on the eyelashes or the eyebrows, leaving the deposit on the eyelashes or the eyebrows the deposit can dry.

It should be noted that according to another embodiment the applicator can form a product container. In such a case a container may for example be provided in the gripping member and an internal channel may internally connect the gripping member to the relief elements application.

Finally, it should be noted that the packaging and application assembly can be in the form of a kit, the applicator and the packaging device can be housed separately under the same packaging article.

EXAMPLES 1 / Preparation of a mascara formulation according to the invention compared with two other mascara formulations outside the invention. Ingredients Example according to Example Example (with contents opposite in%) comparative invention 1 comparative 2 2-AMINO-2-METHYL-1,3-0.9 0.9 0.9 PROPANEDIOL sold under the reference AMPD ULTRA PC by DOW CHEMICAL ACID ETHYLENE DIAMINE 0.2 0.2 0.2 TETRACETIC, SALT DISODIUM, 2 H2O IRON OXIDE BLACK 7 7 7 CARNAUBA WAX 3.5 3.5 3.5 WHITE BLACKED BEECH 4.4 4, 4 4,4 CLEAN CETYLIC ALCOHOL 2 2 2 BIDISTILLE 10 REFINED PARAFFIN 13,8 13,8 13,8 PROTECTED HYDROXYETHYL CELLULOSE 0,1 0,1 0,1 QUATERNIZED BY CHLORIDE OF 2,3 EPDXYPROPYL TRIMETHYL AMMONIUM sold under the reference UCARE POLYMER JR 400 LT by the company AMERCHOL (DOW CHEMICAL) HYDROXYETHYL CELLULOSE 1,2 1,2 1,2 POLY METHACRYLATE OF 1 1 1 SODIUM IN WATER 25% UNSTABILIZED sold under the reference Darvan 7-N by the company Vanderbilt ARABIC GUM 3.4 3,4 3,4 DEGREASED POWDER POLY DIMETHYLSILOXANE 0,5 0,5 0,5 OXYETHYLENE (20 OE) OXYPROPYLENE (20 OP) (DP: 170 - VISCOSITY: 1000 CST) sold under the reference Q2-52 RESIN MODIFIER by the company Dow Corning PHENYL ETHYL ALCOHOL 0.5 0.5 0.5 DESIONIZED WATER (qsp) 55.49 55.49 55.49 CONSERVATIVE 0.5 0.5 0.5 STEARIC ACID 2.5 2, 5 2.5 STEARYLIC ALCOHOL 1/3 OXYETHYLENE (20 OE) sold under the reference BRIJ 78 by the company UNIQUEMA STEARATE DE 2 3 i POLYETHYLENE GLYCOL (40 0E) sold under the reference MYRJ 52P® by the company UNIQEMA PROVITAMINE B5: D 0.01 0.01 0.01 PANTHENOL These compositions were prepared as follows:

i. Preparation of the fat phase All the raw materials used are weighed carefully thanks to a balance (precision 0.01g). In a 500mL double jacketed skillet with hot oil circulation to control the temperature, the different waxes and cetyl alcohol are melted. It is heated to about 96-98 ° C.

Once the melted waxes are homogenized by stirring at the Moritz, it is a stator rotor type stirring: it consists of a fixed part in which a second moving part rotates at a variable speed, this apparatus is used for realize the emulsions because it allows a very important shear. When the waxes are melted and homogenized, the pigments are added and then homogenized again under Moritz. The temperature is then checked (thanks to a probe) and adjusted to 95-96 ° C as needed.

ii. Preparation of the aqueous phase A high form 600 ml beaker weighed beforehand is used in order to adjust the mass of water before emulsification. In this beaker is stirred slowly to the Rayneri, the amount of water needed, previously heated to the electric kettle. Rayneri is a laboratory stirrer equipped with a blade or turbine to stir at variable speed while incorporating constituents. Still under slow stirring are successively introduced: the (co) polymers and then the surfactants. Between each introduction, care must be taken to ensure the solubilization of the compound and the homogenization of the medium. When all the compounds are solubilized, it is necessary to adjust the body of water to compensate for the evaporation that has occurred. The antifoam and the coconservator are then added. The aqueous phase is then placed in a water bath (set point 90-92 ° C.) until the temperature of 88-90 ° C. is reached. iii. Emulsification When the two phases are at the desired temperature, the aqueous phase is added very slowly to the fatty phase by gradually increasing the stirring, the phase inversion is then visible by a change in viscosity.

Stirring is set to maximum for 10 minutes (about 3500 rpm), but for some formulas there is a risk of overflow if the agitation is too intense. For the emulsion to be homogeneous it is sometimes necessary to use a marysette to scrape the edges and bring the product back to the center so that it is wholly driven by the pale. iv. Temperature reduction After emulsification, the skillet is placed in the Rayneri then equipped with a pale butterfly, it allows the mixing and homogenization during the descent in low shear temperature. The stirring speed is low so as not to incorporate air bubbles.

Thanks to the oil bath, the temperature is gradually lowered: in steps of 10 ° C, homogenizing well at each stage, especially at 70 ° C (critical temperature where the mascara begins to take up significantly). Sometimes it is necessary to mix with the marysette to avoid the formation of a block around the blade which would then no longer be kneaded and would be inhomogeneous. However, we risk the incorporation of air bubbles by this method, the formulator must find the right compromise between homogeneity and air bubbles.

v. End of formulation The mascara thus obtained is transferred into an enclosed jar to prevent drying in contact with the air, it is then necessary to wait 24 hours to check the homogeneity of the formula and the good dispersion of the pigments.

2 / Protocols and Results The compositions prepared are then tested on a test piece of virgin eyelashes, by application of these compositions with the aid of a brush. The composition according to the invention has a fluid texture, the deposit is built layer after layer, the composition sheaths the eyelashes well, the makeup is regular, the eyelashes fringe well deployed.

The composition of Comparative Example 1 has a texture too pasty, too adherent and deposits little where a big difficulty in the application. Eyelashes coated with this composition are glued in bundles and it is therefore difficult to manage the packets formed. In addition, this composition sheaths irregularly the eyelashes in the sense that it does not sheath the lashes over their entire length and forms point clusters of composition.

The composition of Comparative Example 2 has a too fluid texture which deposits well but sticks the lashes in bundles because of its excessive fluidity. In addition some clusters of compositions are formed at the free end of the eyelashes, and there is no volumizing effect eyelashes obtained the application of such a composition.

It is understood that in the context of the present invention the weight percentages given for a compound or a family of compounds, are always expressed by weight of dry matter of the compound in question.

Throughout the application, the wording "comprising a" or "comprising a" means "comprising at least one" or "comprising at least" one unless the contrary is specified.

Claims (17)

REVENDICATIONS1. Cosmetic composition for coating emulsion-type keratin fibers, comprising: an aqueous phase; a waxy phase dispersed in the aqueous phase by means of an emulsifying system, and in which the emulsifying system comprises at least three surfactants comprising: at least one C 2 -C 8, preferably C 2 -C 8, alkoxylated ether of C 8 -C 24 fatty alcohols having from 1 to 150 alkoxy groups, at least one C 2 -C 8, preferably C 2 -C 4, alkoxylated ester; C8-C24 fatty acid, having from 1 to 150 alkoxyl groups inclusive, and - at least one ester derived from at least one C16-C30 fatty acid and at least one primary (poly) hydroxyalkylamine. 2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein said C2-C8 alkoxylated ether of C8-C24 fatty alcohols comprises a C12-C20 fatty alcohol, preferably a C16-C18 fatty alcohol. 3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein said C2-C8 alkoxylated ether of C8-C24 fatty alcohols comprises an oxyethylenated ether of stearyl alcohol including from 2 to 20 oxyethylene units. 4. Composition according to claim 1, 2 or 3, wherein said C2-C8 alkoxylated ether of C8-C24 fatty alcohols is present at a content greater than or equal to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the product. composition, preferably between 1 and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 5. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said C2-C8 alkoxylated C8-C24 fatty acid ester comprises a C12-C20, preferably C16-C18 fatty acid. 30 A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said C2-C8 alkoxylated C8-C24 fatty acid ester is an oxyethylenated stearic acid ester having from 20 to 60 oxyethylene units inclusive. 7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said alkoxylated C 8 -C 24 fatty acid ester is present at a content greater than or equal to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 1 and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said ester derived from at least one C16-C30 fatty acid and at least one primary (poly) hydroxyalkylamine is derived from a C16-C18 fatty acid. . 15 9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said ester derived from at least one C16-C30 fatty acid and at least one primary (poly) hydroxyalkylamine is derived from a primary dihydroxyalkylamine, the alkyl group being a linear or branched C1-C8 hydrocarbon chain, preferably a branched C4 hydrocarbon chain, such as 1,3-dihydroxy-2-methylpropyl. 20 10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said ester derived from at least one C16-C30 fatty acid and at least one primary (poly) hydroxyalkylamine is present at a content greater than or equal to 0.1%. by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.5 and 2.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the emulsifying system is present at a total content greater than or equal to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition, preferably between 1.5 and 12.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the waxy phase is present at a content greater than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition, preferably between 16 and 30% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. relative to the total weight of the composition. 13. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the waxy phase comprises one or more wax (s) chosen from beeswax, lanolin wax, insect waxes from China, rice wax, Carnauba wax, Candelilla wax, Ouricurry wax, Alfa wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax, sumac wax, montan wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffin wax, ozokerite, polyethylene wax, C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy) stearate, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis, wax copolymers as well as their esters, the waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched C8-C32 fatty chains, the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with stearyl alcohol, waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, silicone waxes such as alkyl or alkoxydimetene having from 16 to 45 carbon atoms, fluorinated waxes, and their mixture (s). 14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the waxy phase comprises at least one wax chosen from candelilla wax, carnauba wax, beeswax, paraffin wax, polyethylene wax, rice wax, and their mixture (s). 15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one dyestuff chosen from one or more pulverulent material (s), preferably metal oxides, and in particular iron oxides. 16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one or more additional surfactant (s) and / or one or more co-surfactant (s). 17. A process for coating keratinous fibers, in particular eyelash makeup, comprising a step of applying a cosmetic composition for coating keratinous fibers according to any one of claims 1 to 16.5.