KR101897401B1 - Cosmetic composition for skin desquamation comprising powder of captured spicule using ultra high pressure as effective component - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in which alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) and beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) which are kinds of fruit acid are included in a lumen of spicule (bone pieces) which is a bone structure of sponges (Spongilla) treated with ultra-high pressure. The spicule inclusion powder of the present invention improves skin exfoliating functions as AHA and BHA included in the lumen of spicule are continuously released with the lapse of time. Since the spicule inclusion powder promotes skin cell exfoliation and has massaging effects due to scrubbing, the spicule inclusion powder can be useful as a cosmetic composition for exfoliating skin with excellent exfoliating functions.

Description

Technical Field [0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for skin exfoliation comprising a spicule inclusion powder as an active ingredient,

The present invention relates to a method for preparing an alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) by adding an alpha-hydroxy acid to an internal cavity of a spinal bone (bone fragment) of a sponge animal ( Spongilla lacustris L.) ) Or beta-hydroxy acid (BHA). More specifically, the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition which is prepared by lyophilizing a speical powder treated with ultrahigh pressure at 20 DEG C and 80 MPa for 5 minutes at -40 DEG C To a cosmetic composition for exfoliating skin using a spinel inclusion powder prepared by injecting AHA and BHA.

Porifera is a generic name for sphenoid animals. Sponge animal is a simple structure of welfare animal, muscle nervous system digestive system without the differentiation of the lower animal is now known as about 1,000 species. It has a sympathetic cell, which accepts the food that comes in through the entry hole, which is considered to be similar to the protozoan of protozoan because it has a single flagella. It is also referred to as a "survey animal (side animal)" in distinguishing it from other welfare animals. The structure of sponges is very simple compared to other animals, but it is an animal successfully adapted to the surrounding environment. It is known that there are more than 7,000 species in the world, and most of them live in the sea but live in fresh water such as rivers and lakes. The size of sponges can range from rice grain size to several meters. It grows in a variety of forms such as a rock-covered shape, a lump shape, a twig shape, and a tubular shape.

The skeleton supports the body with small fragments (bone fragments, spicules), and it is composed of calcareous or regular, and is divided into major and minor fragments. It has a spongin fiber in addition to the bone fragments. The spongin fiber is a type of spongy fiber. The shape of the spongy fiber is as follows: monaxon, triaxon, tetraxon, polyaxon, It is used as an important feature in animal identification and classification. The simple cannal system has a large number of knots in the central stomach (spongocoel), which are interconnected by the air and many pores (Sethmann et al., Micron. 2008. Vol 39, No. 3, pages 209-228).

Keratinic sponges, tubular Keratin The soft and rigid skeletons of the sponges have been used since ancient times for cleaning baths. In the Middle Ages, sponges were used to treat various diseases. The wild sponges have been used to make pottery jewelery or to draw pictures, and the recent spongy sea creatures Spongilla lacustris L.), Spongilla fragilis Leidy , and Ephydatia fluviatilis , which are skeletal tissues , are used as cosmetic or surgical agents.

Megacleres and Microscleres are classified into Megascleres and Megascleres. The Megascleres can be classified by the naked eye with a size of 60 to 2,000 μm, and Microclerces (Microscleres) are observed with a microscope at a size of 10-60 μm and are classified into three types according to their shape, such as star shape, spherical shape, shovel shape, crescent shape, half moon shape, needle shape, (Chelae), Euasters, Forceps, Isochelas, Microstrongyles, Oxeas and Stille. Of these, (Oxeas) are found on both sides of the needle and have a tube across the center (Eugenio Andri et al., 2001. Proceedings of the Ocean Drilling Program, Vol. ).

The skin consists of epidermis, dermis, and subcutaneous tissue. The uppermost layer of the outermost epidermis is called the stratum corneum. The stratum corneum varies in thickness depending on the body part, the palms and soles are the thickest, and the eyelids and cuffs are the thinnest. This stratum corneum is the last stage of skin formation that occurs when the basal cell layer of the epidermis is constantly breaking up and coming up. Normal skin produces new cells by repeating the process of producing and removing horny cells every 28 days. However, if the age of the skin or external factors causes the keratin exchange cycle to become longer and the removal is not normally performed, dead keratinocytes accumulate on the skin. If you do not remove old keratin, your skin tone will become dull and you will slow down the process of making new cells, thereby promoting skin aging as a whole.

The keratin also acts as a barrier to prevent ingress of harmful foreign matter from the outside of the skin, and also to protect oil and moisture. Excessive removal may weaken the skin and, in severe cases, it can be exacerbated by dry eczema. This moderate level of keratin protects the skin, but excessive keratinis makes the skin tone dull and interferes with the absorption of moisture and nutrients.

Exfoliants, which are mainly used in cosmetics, include alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), a kind of fruit acid, and beta hydroxy acid (BHA), contained in willow extract. These ingredients allow the keratin to fall off easily, thus promoting the process of producing new cells containing water. AHA is the most typical chemical exfoliating ingredient, which helps remove the connective ring between the keratin layers in the stratum corneum through the action of acid, and shows the effect of gently dissolving keratin. Glycolic acid, Lactic acid, Malic acid, Citric acid, Tartaric acid and the like are the components corresponding to AHA. BHA is one of the representative chemical exfoliating ingredients as well as AHA. Salicylic acid is the most common BHA ingredient in cosmetics. Unlike AHA, BHA is liposoluble, so it effectively removes the area where acne is overly accumulated as a cause of acne, so it is easy to penetrate even skin that has sebum secretion and acne. However, AHA and BHA have the side effects of skin care and exfoliation efficacy when used at low concentration, but they have strong side effects when they are used at high concentration, such as being tingling and being sensitive to sunlight (Kornhauser et al. , Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2010. Vol. 24, No. 3, pages 135-142).

In connection with this, a method of purifying and extracting micro-needles having a high efficacy ratio from a natural bio-sponge obtained from the sea surface (Korean Laid-open Patent Application No. 2015-0116620), human adipose stem cell culture medium and epithelial growth factor (EGF) Cosmetics for skin care, prepared by mixing VEGF, insulin-like growth factor (IGF-1), acetylhexapeptide-8, copper tripeptide-1 and plant extract fermentation broth with spicule (Korean Patent No. 10-1678621). However, the conventional techniques have a problem that the exfoliation components such as AHA and BHA are excessively released within a short time, causing skin irritation, In recent years, a need has arisen for a cosmetic composition having skin peeling effect while reducing skin irritation.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The present invention has been made to solve the above-mentioned problems of the prior art, and it is an object of the present invention to provide an AHA (alpha-hydroxy acid) in the lumen of a speckle, which is a bone structure of a sponge animal ( Spongilla lacustris L.) And BHA (beta-hydroxy acid) are enclosed and used so that AHA and BHA are continuously released as time passes after application of the skin, thereby preventing excessive ingredients from being applied to the skin, and at the same time, The present invention has been accomplished by confirming that the exfoliation efficacy is greatly improved.

In order to accomplish the above object, the present invention provides a cosmetic composition for exfoliating the skin comprising, as an active ingredient, a spinel inclusion powder in which a skin exfoliating component treated with ultrahigh pressure is enclosed in a spinal lumen.

The cosmetic composition for exfoliating the skin comprising the speckle inclusion powder in which the skin exfoliation component treated with ultrahigh pressure according to the present invention is encapsulated in the inner lumen of the spine as an active ingredient, , AHA or BHA is lyophilized to fix the active ingredients in the lumen, thereby preventing the AHA or BHA from leaking out along with the liquid during the drying process. Thus, AHA or BHA can be effectively applied to the speckle, And BHA are continuously released to promote turnover of the skin horny, thereby effectively removing the horny skin. Therefore, the composition can be effectively used as a cosmetic composition for exfoliating skin.

In order to accomplish the above object, the present invention provides a cosmetic composition for exfoliating the skin comprising, as an active ingredient, a spinel inclusion powder in which a skin exfoliating component treated with ultrahigh pressure is enclosed in a spinal lumen.

The temperature at the ultra-high pressure treatment is preferably 10 to 60 DEG C, more preferably 10 to 40 DEG C, but is not limited thereto.

The pressure during the ultrahigh-pressure treatment is preferably 10 MPa to 100 MPa, more preferably 50 MPa to 100 MPa, and still more preferably 70 MPa to 90 MPa.

The time for the ultrahigh pressure treatment is preferably 5 to 10 minutes, but is not limited thereto.

The skin exfoliating component may be selected from the group consisting of alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) or salicylic acid such as glycollic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, citric acid, But are not limited to, beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) such as < RTI ID = 0.0 >

The speckle is characterized as originating from a spongy animal, wherein the spongy animal is selected from the group consisting of Spongilla lacustris L., Spongilla fragilis Leidy, and Ephydatia spp. fluviatilis . < / RTI >

The spinel inclusion powder can be prepared through dry drying, wet drying, freeze drying and the like, preferably, but not exclusively, by lyophilization.

The content of the spinel inclusion powder may be 0.01% to 10%, more preferably 0.05% to 8%, or even more preferably 0.1% to 5% by dry weight based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition , But is not limited thereto.

The cosmetics may be formulations such as lotion, skin, lotion, nutritional lotion, nutritional cream, massage cream, essence or pack, but are not limited thereto.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to Examples. It is to be understood by those skilled in the art that these embodiments are merely illustrative of the present invention and that the scope of the present invention is not limited thereto.

Example  One: Spicular Graft powder  Produce

1) Preparation of Glycolic acid solution

 10 g of 98% glycolic acid (Sigma, G8284) was added to 50 g of a mixture of purified water and ethanol (20% by weight) so as to contain 5.0% by weight and stirred at 40 캜 for 1 hour to completely dissolve. ) # 5 filter paper to prepare a 5.0 wt% solution of glycolic acid.

2) Manufacture of spike mixture

10 g of purified spirulina (cosine) purified from Spongilla lacustris L. was mixed with 20 g of the 5.0 wt% solution of glycolic acid prepared in 1) and stirred at 40 캜 for 10 minutes.

3) Ultra high pressure treatment

 30 g of the preparation mixture prepared in the above 2) was added to the plastic pack, and the mixture was vacuum-depressurized and pressurized at 20 DEG C and 80 MPa for 5 minutes using an ultra high pressure processor (TOYO KOATSH, TFS-10).

4) Spike separation and washing

 The preparation mixture 3) was subjected to filtration through a Whatman # 5 filter paper to separate the filtrate. The speckle powder remaining on the filter paper was washed three times with 200 g of an aqueous 20 wt% ethanol solution.

5) Powdering by freeze-drying

 And lyophilized at -40 ° C for 1 day using a freeze dryer (ILSINLAP, PVTFD-10R) to obtain a spinel inclusion powder.

Example  2 to 5: alpha hydroxy Acid (AHA) and  Beta hydroxy Acid (BHA) Enclosed  Powder manufacturing

In the same manner as in Example 1, AHA and BHA were encapsulated in a spiral lumen as shown in Table 1 below to prepare a spinel inclusion powder encapsulating AHA and BHA.

contents Usage (g) Solution
(Wt%, aqueous solution of ethanol) Usage (g) Example 2 Lactic Acid 10 20 50 Example 3 Malic Acid 10 20 50 Example 4 Citric Acid 10 20 50 Example 5 Sallicylic acid 2 60 50

Examples 6 to 8: Preparation of powder encapsulating alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) and beta hydroxyacid (BHA) with different pressure of ultra-high pressure extractor

Experiments were carried out by the methods 1), 2), 4) and 5) of Example 1, except that the pressure of 3) of Example 1 was changed as shown in Table 2 below, To obtain a spinel inclusion powder encapsulating AHA and BHA.

contents Process pressure (MPa) Usage (g) Solution
(Wt%, aqueous solution of ethanol) Usage (g) Example 6 Glycolic acid
(Glycolic acid) 10 10 20 50 Example 7 Glycolic acid
(Glycolic acid) 30 10 20 50 Example 8 Glycolic acid
(Glycolic acid) 50 10 20 50 Example 9 Glycolic acid
(Glycolic acid) 100 10 20 50

Comparative Example  1 to 5: Ultra high pressure Untreated Enclosure  Powder manufacturing

The spike inclusion powder was prepared by following the procedure of 1), 2), 4), and 5) of Example 1 without performing the ultrahigh pressure treatment in Example 1, and the results are shown in Table 3 below.

contents Usage (g) Solution
(Weight% aqueous ethanol solution) Usage (g) Comparative Example 1 Glycolic acid
(Glycolic acid) 10 20 50 Comparative Example 2 Lactic Acid 10 20 50 Comparative Example 3 Malic Acid 10 20 50 Comparative Example 4 Citric Acid 10 20 50 Comparative Example 5 Sallicylic acid 2 60 50

Comparative Example  6 to 7: Freeze-dried untreated Enclosure  Powder manufacturing

Dried at 65 ° C using a vacuum concentrator (Rotavator R205, BUCHI, Germany) without the lyophilization treatment in Example 1, and dried at 75 ° C using a hot air drier (SANYO, Japan) Dried to prepare a spinel inclusion powder according to the process of 1), 2), 3), and 4) of Example 1, which is shown in Table 4 below.

contents Drying method Usage (g) Solution
(Weight% aqueous ethanol solution) Usage (g) Comparative Example 6 Glycolic acid
(Glycolic acid) Drying under reduced pressure (65 ° C) 10 20 50 Comparative Example 7 Glycolic acid
(Glycolic acid) Hot air drying (75 ℃) 10 20 50

Experimental Example  1: with AHA BHA Enclosed Spicular Enclosure  Measurement of pH change of powder

2 g of each sample (Examples 1 to 9 and Comparative Examples 1 to 7) to confirm that the alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) and the beta hydroxy acid (BAH) were enclosed in the speckle were added to 1 L of purified water, And the pH change with time was measured. The results are shown in Table 5 below.

PH change of solution according to measuring time sample 0 minutes 2 minutes 4 minutes 8 minutes 10 minutes 20 minutes Example 1 6.75 5.8 4.92 4.02 3.4 3.14 Example 2 6.75 5.77 5.2 4.94 3.42 3.18 Example 3 6.75 5.95 5.13 4.62 3.21 2.73 Example 4 6.75 5.52 4.65 4.32 3.18 2.57 Example 5 6.75 5.42 4.5 3.94 3.04 2.4 Example 6 6.64 6.02 5.48 5.33 5.25 4.77 Example 7 6.64 5.9 5.3 4.94 4.76 4.41 Example 8 6.64 5.74 5.02 4.13 3.62 3.42 Example 9 6.64 5.76 4.99 4.13 3.42 3.1 Comparative Example 1 6.75 6.02 5.8 5.78 5.72 5.78 Comparative Example 2 6.75 6.18 5.78 5.83 5.79 5.82 Comparative Example 3 6.75 6.03 5.54 5.42 5.34 5.32 Comparative Example 4 6.75 6 5.74 5.62 5.48 5.46 Comparative Example 5 6.75 6.11 5.14 5.05 4.92 4.88 Comparative Example 6 6.64 4.11 3.25 3.18 3.19 3.19 Comparative Example 7 6.64 4.37 3.5 3.08 3.09 3.09

From the results shown in Table 5, the pH of the samples not subjected to the ultrahigh-pressure treatment (Comparative Examples 1 to 5) was constant after 2 to 4 minutes, while the samples subjected to the ultra-high pressure treatment were continuously It is possible to confirm the phenomenon of lowering. This means that the AHA and BHA contained in the speckle are continuously released. From the above results, it was confirmed that the AHA and BHA components can be encapsulated in the lumen of the spicule by an ultra-high pressure treatment process. Further, it was confirmed through Example 1 and Examples 6 to 9 that the super-high-pressure treatment had the most excellent coverage at a pressure of 50 MPa or higher (Examples 1, 8 and 9), and Comparative Examples 6 and 7 It was confirmed that the components contained in the lumen were leaked out during the drying process after the encapsulation.

Manufacturing example  One: Spicular Enclosure  Manufacture of cream containing powder

The prescription examples of the cream containing the spinel inclusion powder are shown in Table 6 below. The spinel inclusion powder Formulation Example 1 corresponds to Example 5 above, and Comparative Formulation Example 1 corresponds to Comparative Example 5.

Formulation Example 1 was conducted by heating a mixture of a carboxyvinyl polymer, glycerin, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, an antiseptic, and purified water with stirring at 80 to 85 DEG C, 60, sorbitan sesquioleate, liquid paraffin, squalane, salicylic acid, and triethanolamine are heated to 80 to 85 DEG C and emulsified. When the emulsification is completed, the mixture is cooled to 50 ° C with stirring using an agitator, and the colorant is added. After cooling to 45 ° C, the perfume is added, cooled to 35 ° C, and then the spinel inclusion powder (Example 5) is added. Finally, the mixture was cooled to 25 DEG C and then aged to prepare Formulation Example 1.

Comparative Formulation Example 1 was carried out by heating a carboxyvinyl polymer, glycerin, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, an antiseptic, and purified water at 80 to 85 캜 while mixing and stirring, 60, sorbitan sesquioleate, liquid paraffin, squalane, and salicylic acid are heated to 80 to 85 캜 and then emulsified. After the emulsification is completed, the mixture is cooled to 50 ° C with stirring using an agitator, and the colorant is added. After cooling to 45 ° C, the perfume is added. When the mixture is cooled to 35 ° C, the spectral powder (Comparative Example 5) is added. After cooling to 25 占 폚, the comparative formulation example 1 was prepared by aging.

number Raw material Formulation Example 1 Comparative Formulation Example 1 Control One The spinel inclusion powder (Example 5) 2 - - 2 Spicule powder (Comparative Example 5) - 2 - 3 Wax 10.0 10.0 10.0 4 Polysorbate 60 1.5 1.5 1.5 5 Sorbitan sesquioleate 0.8 0.8 0.8 6 Liquid paraffin 40.0 40.0 40.0 7 Squalane 5.0 5.0 5.0 8 Salicylic acid 0.5 0.5 0.5 9 Carboxyvinyl polymer 0.2 0.2 0.2 10 glycerin 5.0 5.0 5.0 11 Butylene glycol 3.0 3.0 3.0 12 Propylene glycol 3.0 3.0 3.0 13 Triethanolamine 0.2 0.2 0.2 14 antiseptic a very small amount a very small amount a very small amount 15 Pigment a very small amount a very small amount a very small amount 16 perfume a very small amount a very small amount a very small amount 17 Purified water Balance Balance Balance

Experimental Example  2: Analysis of accelerated skin keratin turnover

In order to investigate the effect of promoting the skin keratin turnover by the spinel inclusion powder, 15 healthy men and women aged 20 to 40 years with respect to Formulation Example 1, Comparative Formulation Example 1, Respectively.

 The color of the inside of the arm of the subject was measured with a chromometer (Minolta Co., CR300) before the application of the sample, 0.4 ml of dihydroxyacetone (DHA) with a 10% weight concentration was placed in a hilltop chamber (The Hill Top Co.) For 6 hours. After 24 hours, the color of the brown colored area was measured by DHA, and the color difference before and after the application of the sample was measured. Then, the degree of discoloration on each day was measured with a chromometer while applying Formulation Example 1, Comparative Formulation Example 1, and control group twice a day, and the time taken to return to the original skin color was measured. The exfoliation rate of keratin was calculated by the following formula (1).

[Equation 1]

Blank Turnover Time: The time it takes to replace the stratum corneum of a sample-untreated group with a new stratum corneum.

Test Turnover Time: The time it takes for the stratum corneum of the sample treatment group to be replaced with a new stratum corneum.

As shown in the following Table 7, the time to replace with the new stratum corneum of Comparative Formulation Example 1 (time required for skin horn turnover) was 15.2 days, and in the case of the control group Was measured to be 16.0 days. Formulation Example 1 containing the inclusion spicule powder was measured to be 13.5 days, and it was confirmed that the time for replacement with a new stratum corneum by the spicule inclusion powder was remarkably shortened, and the exfoliation rate of keratin The results are shown in Table 1. The results are shown in Table 1. The results are shown in Table 1.

Sample type Turn over time (days) Percolation rate (%) Untreated group 19.0 - Formulation Example 1 13.5 29.0 Comparative Formulation Example 1 15.2 20.0 Control group 16.0 15.8

Claims (7)

A mixture of salicylic acid and spicule is subjected to ultrahigh pressure treatment at a temperature of 10 to 40 DEG C and a pressure of 10 to 100 MPa for 5 to 10 minutes to form a spicule inclusion powder in which salicylic acid is encapsulated in a spinal luminal cavity, A cosmetic composition for peeling. delete delete The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the spicule is obtained from a sponge animal. 5. The method according to claim 4, wherein the spongy animal is a Spongilla lacustris L.), Spongilla fragile Leidy , and Ephydatia < RTI ID = 0.0 > The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for delamination of the skin. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the spinel inclusion powder is obtained through lyophilization at -5 ° C to -80 ° C. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the spinel inclusion powder is contained at 0.1% to 5% of the total weight of the composition.