KR0151318B1 - Dyeing process for elastic fabrics - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention is to provide a polyester / spandex foil type stretch fabric with excellent elasticity by improving the dyeing process and prevent wrinkles, etc., in dyeing the foil type stretch fabric,

It is dyed and processed through the process of cutting and finishing → refinement and reduction → line setting → weight reduction → dyeing → washing and final setting.For Park Ji-hyun's stretch fabric, the slope is 50 denier BY S / T and the weft is polyester 50 denier and spandex 20 It is characterized by a Park Ji-type stretch fabric of the runner tissue as a covering yarn of Denia.

Description

Dyeing and Processing of Stretch Fabrics

The present invention relates to a process for dyeing a polyester / spandex foil type stretch fabric.

Conventional stretch fabrics were mostly thick fabrics (rear fabrics) and thin fabrics (folled fabrics) were of high quality, but deterioration of the weaving and wrinkles (processes) and processing deviations of the dyeing process have always emerged as obstacles. It was difficult.

That is, in the case of foil, we use a large loom for weaving sesame yarn used for warp yarns and coated elastic yarn for weft yarns, so weft yarn cuts frequently occur when weaving warp yarns and weft yarns. do. In addition, since the wrinkles (shrinkage) frequently occurs due to the tension variation or friction of the processing process because of the stretch fabric of the paper during dyeing process, the product quality is significantly reduced.

Therefore, it is necessary to solve the above disadvantages to develop a stretch fabric of foil with excellent product quality and dyeing processability.

In order to solve the above problems, it is necessary to first select an appropriate weaving machine and weaving conditions.

In addition, when weaving elastic elastic yarn during weaving, severe deflection occurs on the inclined part of the upright inclination. This is because the stretched elastic yarn shrinks from the edge to the center of the fabric and the edge tissue is not firm. This is because the elastic yarn slips to the center, causing sagging of the sloping edge, which can be prevented by expanding the stool tissue, changing the stool tissue, adjusting the temples, and installing a spring tensioner. .

In the case of dyeing a stretch fabric with a polyurethane-based fabric such as spandex, it is necessary to pay close attention to the management of the process from refining to dyeing after the dyeing using the same material.

Main technical control items for dyeing and processing of stretch paper fabrics include the prevention of wrinkles that occur mainly in spandex products during dyeing and the prevention of dyeing defects and yellowing through the complete removal of oil attached during spinning of spandex fibers. The management of width and titration, and the solution of all dyeing problems, which are mainly a problem in polyester / spandex composite products, are required.

This is because general fabrication conditions and relaxation conditions cannot be applied as they are, due to the elasticity peculiar to spandex fiber, the fabric shrinks rapidly during dyeing.

An object of the present invention is to provide a polyester / spandex foil-type stretch fabric having excellent elasticity and preventing wrinkles and the like by solving the above problems and improving the dyeing and processing method.

That is, in the present invention, in dyeing a thin stretch fabric, the end of fabric (follicles) → podium → relaxation and refining (Relaxing Scouring) → line setting (Pre Setting) → weight reduction → dyeing → washing → final setting (Final Setting) ) Is characterized in that the examination is the basic process.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.

Before applying the dyeing process of the present invention is a matter of storage of dough, in order to prevent wrinkles in the fabric, do not excessively overload or store the dough during transportation and storage, and select a solid winding tube winding Should be taken

The method of dyeing the dough stored as described above is as follows.

First, the podium and podium

Because podium is the main source of wrinkles in processing of stretch fabrics, the sewing machine must be used to make uniform podium according to the same podium width as in the following example.

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Second, refinement reduction

In case of stretch fabric, it shows severe shrinkage during refining, so when the fabric is subjected to refining conditions, serious wrinkles occur on the surface.

Therefore, it is necessary to go through a proper reduction process, but in order to prevent severe reduction phenomenon, three steps of refining and reduction are necessary. The temperature is gradually increased in two to three steps from 50 to 60 ° C in one step and finally finished at about 90 to 100 ° C.

Third, Pre Setting

Precautions should be exercised as pre-setting is a process that has a significant impact on the subsequent weight loss conditions.

The management of the setting temperature is an important condition to prevent problems in weight loss and dyeing. If the setting temperature is raised above 200 ℃, it will be accompanied by deterioration of elasticity. If a continuous reducer is applied during processing, the weight loss will be rolled out in the width direction of the fabric during the weight loss.

Therefore, it is desirable to make the sun setting at a temperature higher than 180 ° C and lower than 200 ° C.

Fourth, weight loss

In case of spandex, there is no big problem in the physical property against high concentration alkali such as 10N NaOH, so there is no big problem through CDR, which is a high concentration continuous weight loss processor. Therefore, it is preferable to perform low concentration low speed treatment of about 4-5 N as possible.

Fifth, dyeing

Although polyester / spandex dyes faster than ordinary polyester materials and the dyeing temperature seems to be completely reduced at 120 ° C, which is lower than 130 ° C, which is the dyeing temperature of general polyester, in the case of actual disperse dyes, it is almost close to physical fixation to spandex. Since it is absorbed state, the disperse dye almost comes out in the R / C or soaping step after dyeing, so there is a limit to the applied color by the disperse dye.

Therefore, in the case of spandex, dyes deviate during washing, and problems of washing fastness frequently occur. Therefore, reduction washing must be performed. When selecting dyes, it is preferable to use E-type dyes in order to ensure uniformity. However, since there are many problems in terms of washing fastness, high-fastness type E-type dyes should be selected and applied as possible, and dye combinations should not be mixed with E / Type and S-Type dyes.

Sixth, final setting

Fabrics washed with F.W.D (Final Washing Dryer) can be finally set to the required paper width through Final Tenter. At this time, the processing paper width is initially set close to the processing paper width (approximately 90 ~ 95% of the required processing paper width) at the initial line setting. Finally, the processing paper width is set to the processing paper width at the final setting.

In addition, the external temperature must be taken into account when setting the final setting width.

In other words, when the temperature of the outside air is lower than the workplace temperature at the final setting, the spandex on the processed paper shrinks so that a slight shrinkage of the width of the fabric occurs. Therefore, the processing width should be calculated in consideration of seasonal requirements. (Width contraction degree → 2 ~ 3% Δ ℃ = (temperature difference): about 30 ℃)

The temperature of the heat setting should be set as the same or lower than the temperature of the line setting. Above all, be careful not to be overexposed to high temperature during the heat setting.

In particular, polyester dyes with disperse dyes are subjected to heat treatment at low temperatures, if possible, due to sublimation of disperse dyes and loss of elastic properties of spandex stretched yarns when exposed to high temperatures of 190 to 210 ° C. for a long time.

On the other hand, the effect of dyeing process may be different depending on the type and texture of the warp and weft of the polyester / spandex stretch fabric.

In order to have an excellent effect of dyeing process, the lower the denier of warp and weft yarn, the better the elasticity and productability, etc., Preferably, polyester 50d BY S / T is used, and polyester 50d and spandex 20d for weft yarn The effect is excellent when using a covering (covering). In addition, when the tissue of the stretch fabric is the main (Satin), the effect of dyeing process is excellent.

When the dye-treated stretch fabrics as in the above method can be obtained an excellent woven product, it is possible to obtain the effect such as wrinkles do not occur in the dyeing process.

The Park Ji-type stretch fabric dyed by the above method is used as a raw material for underwear such as women's lingerie and slips and high-quality fashion women's blouses and jackets.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described through Examples, but the present invention is not limited to these Examples.

[Example 1-12]

As shown in the following Table 1, after uniformly woven stretch fabric woven with different yarn combinations and textures of warp and weft yarns, it undergoes one-step refining process at 50 ℃, followed by 2-3 refining processes at 95 ℃. Next, after setting the line at 190 ℃, reduced and dyed after the final setting was dyed processing, the elasticity, thickness, weight, appearance and observed the results are shown in Table 1 below.

Example 13-18

After weaving stretch fabric of runner tissue using polyester 50 denier BY S / T and using weft polyester 50 denier and spandex 20 denier covering yarn, Stained. After observing the elongation, recovery and productability of the fabric, the results are shown in Table 2 below.

As a result, in the case of Examples 1-12 with different yarn combinations and textures, PART 1 using polyester 50 denia BY S / T as a ramp, and using polyester 50 denia and spandex 20 denia covering yarn as the weft yarn, that is, Example In the case of 1-3, the physical properties were better than the other cases, and in terms of tissue, the product of the runner tissue showed better elasticity than the products of other tissues. As a result, wesadenia low runner tissue fabrics obtained better results than other products.

In addition, the appearance of the runner-up organization showed a smooth and drafted quality advantage than the other organizations.

As a result, in the case of dyeing the stretch fabric of the main fabric using inclined polyester 50 denier BY S / T and using polyester 50 denier and spandex 20 denier covering yarn as the weft yarn, the effect of dyeing process Best.

In addition, as shown in the results of Examples 13-18, which were tested by different dyeing processes, it was found that during the dyeing processing of stretch fabrics, special process and tenter temperature control different from general polyester products had an important effect. Can be.

Claims (2)

In dyeing a thin stretch fabric using a ramp polyester and a covering yarn of polyester and spandex as a weft yarn, firstly cutting and milling, and then refining and shrinking are carried out from 50 to 60 ° C in one step. In step 3, the temperature is gradually increased and finally finished at about 90 to 100 ° C, and then set at a temperature higher than 180 ° C, lower than 200 ° C, reduced weight, dyed, and dyed through water washing and final setting. Dyeing processing method of stretch type stretch fabric, characterized in that. The paper-like stretch fabric according to claim 1, wherein the paper-like stretch fabric is a tapered stretch fabric of runner tissue having a slope of 50 denier BY S / T yarn and a weft yarn of a covering yarn of polyester 50 denier and spandex 20 denier. Way.