KR101349696B1 - Method of high-pressure garment dyeing - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention provides a method for dyeing a garment with high pressure, wherein the method dyes the garment in a drum type dye bath while the dye bath rotates and includes a step of putting a dyeing solution at a bath weight ratio of 1:1 to 1:10 against the weight of the garment and a step of dyeing the garment at 40-130 deg. C and 2.0-3.0 bar. According to the present invention, materials applied to high pressure garment dyeing can be diversified and shape stability and reproducibility are improved by controlling bath weight ratios, pressure, temperatures, rotational speeds, and the like.

Description

Method of High-pressure Garment dyeing

The present invention relates to a high-pressure garment dyeing method that can implement a natural vintage effect while maintaining the sensitivity. More specifically, by proceeding garment dyeing under a pressure of 2.0-3.0 bar, it is easy to control the temperature, it is possible to apply the garment dyeing on a variety of materials, it relates to a high-pressure garment dyeing method excellent in shape stability and reproducibility.

Fiber dyeing means that the dye is fixed on a fiber such as fiber, film, leather or the like through a medium. The principle of dyeing is that the ionic water-soluble group of the dye is hydrated by dissolving with water molecules to form a salt solution. Then, the hydrophilic groups (hydroxyl group, amino group, carboxyl group) of the fiber are wetted according to the dyeing temperature, and are combined with the salt solution. In other words, the dye is diffused toward the surface of the fiber in the state of hydration with water, adsorbed to the outer surface of the fiber to reach the fiber surface, and then diffused and fixed inside the fiber as time passes. Dyeing is based on the type of dye and preparation according to the fiber (auxiliary agent, Carrier (material that facilitates the penetration of salt solution between the hydrophobic fibers (synthetic fibers) tissue), the exact liquid ratio of water, solvents, etc., and the temperature, time, Various dyeing conditions, such as pH, must be met for dyeing. In addition, there are various dyeing techniques for dyeing textiles in the state of dyeing in the state of woven fabrics, knitted fabrics, warp knitted fabrics and dyeing in the state of woven fabrics, knitted fabrics, warp knitted fabrics. The dyeing method is different depending on the fiber material. First, polyamide-based synthetic fibers represented by nylon are dyed with disperse dyes, acid dyes, mordant dyes, and are mainly dyed using Rapid or jigger dyeing machines. The polyamide starts dyeing slowly in a bath at 30-40 ℃, heats it to 80-90 ℃ and dyes it for 30-60 minutes. If dyeing is insufficient, the carrier is used to help dye. On the other hand, polyester-based synthetic fibers are not easily dyed at 85 ° C, and can be dyed or neutral at 100 ° C. Therefore, high temperature of 120-130 ° C is achieved by using disperse dyes or vat dyes. It may be dyed in the figure or pigment dye at a high temperature of 210-220 ℃. On the other hand, in the case of cotton (cotton) is a natural fiber can be used mainly dyes, reactive dyes, vat dyes and the like, the dyeing temperature corresponds to 70-100 ℃. In particular, when dyeing cotton with a reactive dye, the reactive dye and the cellulose of the cotton are dyed with strong covalent bonds, so once fixed, the dye is not easily modified and should be uniformly dyed using a leveling agent before fixing.

Dyeing of fiber is applied not only to single fiber but also to blended fabrics, teaching fabrics, composite fabrics, etc. T / C (polyester and cotton) blends or textiles generally 120-130 ℃ after dyeing polyester side 70-80 ℃ Dye the Cotton side. In the case of N / P blends or fabrics, dyeing should be done at high temperatures. If the polyester side is dark, dye transfer to the nylon side may occur, so polyester may dye only nylon after being served with pre-dyed yarn. In case of N / C, nylon is dyed in Jigger or Rapid and cotton side is dyed in batch type. Dyeing technology is a variety of fibers, the more complicated the texture of the yarn and fabric, the more difficult to control the conditions required for dyeing. In addition, the texture of the weaving yarn, the texture of the warp, that is, the dyeing effect may vary depending on the texture. For example, C / N where cotton side is exposed to the surface may be superior to N / C where the nylon side is exposed to the surface.

On the other hand, unlike the existing method of making clothes by cutting with dyed fabric, there is a dyeing method that dyes the finished clothes as it is, this is called garment dyeing (Garment Dyeing). When the garment is dyed in a garment state, the sewing part becomes sewn, water drops occur, and the used feeling can be realized. Garment dye is not only natural and luxurious in color, but also different effects can be obtained depending on how it is managed under the same conditions, so you can feel more natural and vintage as time goes by. In addition, as the trend of the fashion world pursues eco-friendly trends, the brand's name, vintage, which preserves past designs, atmospheres and sensibilities, is given to the old and familiar old products with protection psychology in a destroyed environment. It is spreading further. In the future, the vintage will develop in the form of combining various functions in addition to the atmosphere of the past, and this trend is expected to continue in the future.

Among the related arts related to textile dyeing, in particular, the patented technology for realizing garment dyeing or vintage effect is Korean Patent Application No. exist. The patent, indigo dyeing garments with indigo dye, using a buffer consisting of sodium carbonate / formic acid dyes the garment with a pH-controlled indigo reducing salt solution, and then indigo oxidizing, washing and washing processes in the same dyeing machine It relates to a garment dyeing method and a dyeing apparatus. Another patent technology is European Patent Application EP 2002-733317, which includes a technique for applying heat treatment by applying nitrogen-based oxidizing agent to indigo dyed fabric. It is present and applied to an indigo dyeing cloth with an aqueous solution containing at least one substance selected from the group consisting of hydrochloric acid, magnesium chloride, sulfuric acid, aluminum sulfate, acetic acid, zinc acetate, phosphoric acid, and magnesium phosphate and then heated. Japanese patent application JP 2002-226255 etc. which described the processing method which gives a feeling is also exist. However, existing patents related to garment dyeing or vintage dyeing are mostly atmospheric pressure dyeing, and there is no garment dyeing technique that can easily control the shrinkage of fabrics at a high pressure and has excellent color reproducibility.

Numerous papers and patent documents are referenced and cited throughout this specification. The disclosures of the cited papers and patent documents are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety to better understand the state of the art to which the present invention pertains and the content of the present invention.

In general, garment dyeing has mainly used a single material that can be dyed at room temperature and pressure using a single dye such as cotton or nylon. These materials can be dyed at temperatures below 100 ° C due to the nature of the dyes used (reactive or acidic dyes) and are easy to add additional salts, making it difficult to dye normal room temperature and atmospheric pressure garments. Divided fabrics have had to be able to maintain controlled friction and high temperatures and to anticipate changes in form when dyed in the form of garments and finished products.

 The present inventors have made efforts to solve the above problems, when controlling the bath ratio and pressure, temperature, rotational speed, etc. during garment dyeing can be diversified materials applied to high-pressure garment dyeing and excellent shape stability and reproducibility The present invention has been completed by finding that it can be made.

The purpose of the present invention is to dye under the rotation of the dyeing tank in a closed drum dyeing tank, (a) adding a salt solution so that the bath ratio is 1: 1 to 1:10 to the weight of the garment; And (b) to provide a high-pressure garment dyeing method comprising the step of dyeing the garment at a temperature of 40 to 130 ℃ and an air pressure of 2.0 to 3.0 bar.

According to an aspect of the present invention, the present invention provides a high-pressure garment dyeing (garment) dyeing method comprising the following steps, the dyeing is made under the rotation of the dyeing tank in a closed drum dyeing tank. (a) adding a salt solution such that the bath ratio is 1: 1 to 1:10 by weight of the garment; And (b) dyeing the garment at a temperature of 40 to 130 ° C. and an air pressure of 2.0 to 3.0 bar.

The drum dyeing tank of the present specification is a dyeing tank in which a dye is formed in a rotary (rotary) manner, and particularly, refers to a dyeing tank having a shape similar to that of a conventional washing machine of a conventional drum type washing machine. In the present invention, the drum type dye bath is closed, so that the internal pressure can be easily increased, and the water vapor inside is not discharged to the outside.

As used herein, the term garment is used to mean the entire garment and is used in the same sense as the apparel in English. Therefore, in the present specification, "garment dyeing" refers to a method of dyeing clothes or shoes that are sewn and made close to a product form as opposed to a conventional method of making clothes by cutting the dyed fabric. Therefore, it is possible to realize a completely different feeling from dyeing and sewing fabrics, and dyeing and garment dyeing are incomparable with each other because dyeing is much more difficult to control than normal fabric dyeing.

The main purpose of garment dyeing is to reproduce old but luxurious colors such as fade out effects. Garment dye puts the sewn clothes into the dyeing machine, so that the seam is broken by the friction generated in the dyeing machine and the natural gradation effect can be obtained, thus making it possible to create a clothes with a vintage feeling. . In the present specification, the term vintage is derived from a luxury wine brewed in a year when French grapes were harvested in good harvest. The term “goodness” refers to “matured and best state,” as a good wine tastes better as it matures. It was generalized and used mainly in the fashion field to refer to fashionable or fashionable items with charms such as `` Old-but goodies '' or `` New-Old fashion. '' will be.

The term high pressure herein means a pressure of 2.0 to 3.0 bar as described in step (b). In general, garment dyeing is applied to a single material such as cotton or nylon that can be dyed at normal pressure without applying pressure. However, in the case of PET fabrics, teaching fabrics, and composite fabrics such as NP, dyeing is less common with normal atmospheric garment dyeing, and there are many difficulties in implementing the vintage effect. Because it is difficult to increase the temperature of 120-130 ℃, which is the temperature for dyeing PET fabrics, fabrics, and NPs, it is easy to change the fabric shape according to the high temperature. Because it can not be expected. In particular, the change in the shape of the fabric can be a major factor to inhibit the completeness of the garment dye. For example, NP split composite yarn is produced by complex spinning of nylon side and PET side on a single filament strand, so the dye side of PET side and nylon side should be dyed separately. As the shrinkage or hardening of the side proceeds, the technology to control it must be accompanied. Accordingly, the present invention can easily control the temperature by providing a high-pressure garment dyeing method applying a pressure of 2.0 to 3.0 bar, and thus it is possible to extend the garment dyeing target to a material that is not easy to dye at atmospheric pressure. do. That is, the high-pressure garment dyeing material of the present invention is not only a single material such as nylon, cotton, and polyester, but also N / P, P / N, C / N, and N / C. This may be the case for all of the composite fabrics, including teaching fabrics, NP split composite yarns, and the like. Therefore, the high pressure of the present invention is a very important configuration in garment dyeing.

According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, in the step (a) is characterized in that the saline ratio of 1: 1 to 1:10 to the weight ratio of the weight of the garment, the more preferably the ratio of the bath (a) is 1: 2- 1: 7, and the most preferable ratio is 1: 2-1: 5. Liquor raito herein means the weight ratio of the salt solution or wash bath to the fiber weight in processing and cleaning. The bath expenses of the present invention are very important. This is because dyeing is generally performed in a bath ratio of 1:12 or more, whereas the present invention corresponds to a low bath ratio dye of 1:10 or less. If the bath ratio is less than 1: 1, the amount of the salt solution to the fiber is too small to achieve uniform dyeing, and if the bath ratio exceeds 1:10, a natural wrinkle phenomenon (washer effect) and fade out effect is not obtained. Garment dyeing of the present invention will be described in more detail below, but because it proceeds under the rotation of a closed drum dyeing tank, it is possible to efficiently reduce the amount of saline solution, thereby obtaining sufficient garment dyeing effect even at a low bath ratio of 1: 1-1: 10. Even dyeing is possible.

According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the garment dyeing in the step (b) is characterized in that it is carried out at a temperature of 40 to 130 ℃ and air pressure of 2.0 to 3.0 bar, more preferably a temperature of 60 to 120 ℃ and It may be characterized in that it is carried out at atmospheric pressure of 2.3 to 2.8bar. In the present invention, it is important that the proper dyeing temperature includes 40 ℃. Because even low temperature dyeing materials such as nylon and cotton are usually dyed at 60 ° C. or higher for uniform dyeing, the present invention is given a pressure of 2.0-3.0 bar and thus high fastness and uniformity at relatively low temperatures. Because one stain can be done. If it is possible to dye at such low temperatures, it can be very easy to dye fabrics or composite fabrics containing fibers such as nylon, which are susceptible to temperature. For example, NP-divided composite fabrics usually need to be heated up to 120 ° C to dye PET side at normal pressure, but the shrinkage of nylon will exceed 15%. . However, under high pressure, PET can be dyed at around 100 ° C, making it easier to control and prevent shrinkage or hardening of nylon. In addition, the high-pressure garment dyeing of the present invention as described above can be a big feature because it is possible to low-bath ratio and low-temperature dyeing, there is an environmentally friendly advantage to reduce the amount of waste water and energy.

According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the garment of step (a) and (b) is characterized in that the sewing semi-finished product or sewing finished product considering the shrinkage of 1-15%, more preferably 5 It is characterized in that it is a sewing semifinished product or sewing finished product in consideration of the shrinkage rate of -10%, most preferably 6-8%. As used herein, the term shrinkage refers to the rate at which the garment shrinks in size due to an increase in density before and after dyeing. In the present invention, since a high pressure is applied during dyeing, a density change occurs. As a result, the size of the garment after dyeing is reduced compared to the size of the garment before dyeing. Increasing the density, the touch feeling and bulky property is excellent, but in the case of garments, if the density change is extreme, the shape of the clothes is distorted completely and the value of the product decreases. Garment dyeing has to be disposed of immediately when defects occur, resulting in huge losses such as sewing costs and energy waste. Therefore, the present invention is to cut and sew the garment in consideration of the shrinkage rate of 1-15% in consideration of the shape change of the acceptable range. Here, if the shrinkage is less than 1%, the shape change is hardly observed, so a unique shrinkage and fine wrinkle effect may not be obtained due to dyeing of the garment. If the shrinkage rate is more than 15%, the above-described shape change may be large, leading to product defects. have. In the present invention, it is very important to use the sewing semifinished product or the finished sewing product which is cut and sewn in consideration of the shrinkage rate of 1-15%. In particular, in the present invention, the garment is completely sewn in the form of a product, that is, including a zipper, a button, a hat, a pocket, and the like, including all the subsidiary materials attached to the garment, including the sewing semi-finished product before the subsidiary materials are attached to the garment. Is characteristic. If the deformation of the subsidiary material is severe during high-pressure garment dyeing, the semi-finished product can be selected to perform high-pressure garment dyeing and then the subsidiary material can be sewn.

In the present invention, since garment dyeing is performed under high pressure, it may be important to pre-treat the garment material to have a shrinkage of 1-15% together with sewing in consideration of shrinkage. This may be the case for teaching or composite fabrics, rather than a single material. For example, in the case of NP split composite fabric, the PET side must be melted in alkali to be sufficiently divided and shrunk to high density using a shrinkage agent to have a shrinkage within 1-15% of the shrinkage of high-pressure garments. will be. Therefore, the fabric constituting the garment contains a variety of fibers having different characteristics, and the more complicated the texture, the more highly divided and high-density treated material can be properly selected and used.

In addition, according to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, in order to easily control the morphological changes that occur during high-pressure garment dyeing, the sewing semi-finished product or the finished product is made of a fabric that controlled the shrinkage rate by the axial fixation at a temperature of 40-100 ℃ It may be characterized by being a sewing product. Axial fixation may be important in the present invention because the size can be controlled so that the shrinkage does not change significantly by providing a similar physical environment that can be achieved during high pressure garment dyeing to the pre-dyeed dye. In addition, the shaft fixation can reduce the defective rate of the product, it is possible to predict the shrinkage. In the shaft fixing step, washing with spinning fabric at a temperature of 40-100 ° C. is most important. This is because controlling the torsion of the garment due to the torque generated during rotation during the dyeing process must be performed in the shaft fixing step. Therefore, the shaft fixation needs to be made by providing temperature, rotational speed, and direction of rotation similar to the dyeing process.

According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the garment of step (a) and (b) may be characterized in that the post-processed product or waste clothing. Post-processing of the present specification means the processing made in the finishing step of the textile or garment products comprehensively, and in the post-processing, antifouling processing, waterproof processing, water repellent processing, flexible processing, oil repellent processing, flame retardant processing, antibacterial processing, fluorescent bleaching processing, antistatic processing Etc. may be included. The present invention can be dyed high-pressure garment to the post-processed product, and can be dyed by the high-pressure garment method, even waste clothing including the finished garment for the carry-over products or recycling of commercially available clothing. It is because of the technical principle of the present invention that can be dyed to post-processed products or waste clothing in the present invention also increases the pressure to allow dyeing at a relatively low temperature. Various processed agents remain in post-processed products or waste clothing, but if the dye is processed at high temperature, the processing agent may deform the surface of the garment or may come off from the garment. Alternatively, garment dyeing can be performed without being limited to waste clothing. In this aspect, it is possible to increase the recycling efficiency of the clothes of the present invention, and also to be reborn as a unique feeling of clothes, it is very economically and environmentally significant.

According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the step (b) is temperature rising by 0.5-2 ° C. per minute, leveling at 40-100 ° C. for 20-80 minutes, and then 0.5-2 ° C. per minute. It is characterized in that it comprises the step of cooling for 20-80 minutes at 20-60 ℃ by decreasing the temperature (하며) each case in this case, such as cotton or nylon in a fiber capable of low-temperature dyeing below 100 ℃ (at atmospheric pressure) Yes. In addition, according to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the step (b) is heated to 0.5-2 ℃ per minute leveled at 80-130 ℃ for 20-80 minutes, then reduced by 0.5-2 ℃ per minute at 20-60 ℃ It characterized in that it comprises a step of cooling for 20-80 minutes, this case corresponds to a fiber that must be dyed at a high temperature of more than 100 ℃ (at atmospheric pressure), such as PET. Leveling in the present specification means to leave the stain in the dyeing tank for a certain period of time for the leveling of the dye. At this time, the dye bath may be rotated or left for a while while standing.

In addition, when garment dyeing composed of two or two fibers of different fabrics having a different dyeability, the step (b) of the present invention is to increase the temperature ([ⅰ) temperature 0.5-2 ℃ per minute by 20- 20 ℃ at 20- After leveling for 80 minutes, cooling at 20-60 ° C. for 20-80 minutes by decelerating 0.5-2 ° C. per minute; (Ii) draining the saline solution used in step (iii) and washing the garment; And (iii) adding salt solution and raising the temperature by 0.5-2 ° C. per minute, leveling at 80-130 ° C. for 20-80 minutes, and then decreasing the temperature by 0.5-2 ° C. per 20-60 ° C. for 20-80 minutes. Or the step (b) of the present invention, after raising the temperature by 0.5-2 ° C. per minute, leveling at 80-130 ° C. for 20-80 minutes, and then Cooling at 20-60 ° C. for 20-80 minutes by deceleration by 0.5-2 ° C .; (Ii) draining the saline solution used in step (iii) and washing the garment; And (iii) adding salt solution and raising the temperature by 0.5-2 ° C. per minute, leveling at 40-100 ° C. for 20-80 minutes, and then decreasing the temperature by 0.5-2 ° C. per minute for 20-80 ° C. for 20-80 minutes. Cooling step]. Here, after dyeing certain parts of the garment, draining and washing the saline solution should be accompanied to prevent the infection of other parts. In the case of the high-pressure garment dyeing method of the present invention, it is easy to dye even a garment made of a teaching fabric or a composite fabric that does not have excellent shape stability under high pressure, and thus, includes both low-temperature dyeing and high-temperature dyeing. Furthermore, the teaching fabric or composite fabric can control the shrinkage rate due to the dyeing of the garment under high pressure while controlling the shrinkage rate, thereby increasing the touch feeling, thereby increasing the value of the product. High temperature dyeing may be performed first or low temperature dyeing may be performed first, which may be appropriately selected according to the characteristics of the material forming the garment.

According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the dyeing tank is characterized in that the rotation is carried out at a rotational speed of 50-80rpm, the dyeing tank is characterized in that it is performed in a manner using a combination of forward and reverse rotation. It is important in the present invention that the dyeing is carried out under rotation in a drum type dye bath. In general, high-pressure dyeing of fabrics is done through rapid dyeing (rapid dyeing as short as possible, moving dyeing and dyeing together with the dye solution). This is because it is not suitable for rapid dyeing because the shape is completely distorted since the movement of the treatment cannot be controlled. Therefore, garment dyeing is most suitable for rotary dyeing, that is, drum-type dyeing, which rotates about a horizontal axis. At this time, the rotation speed of the dye bath is 50-80rpm is most suitable, if less than 50rpm dyeing does not easily occur in the garment, if it exceeds 80rpm high friction is given to the garment to cause fiber damage. In particular, the dyeing performed under the rotation of the drum dye bath serves as an essential factor for enabling the low bath ratio described above. Because rapid dyeing, such as rapid dyeing, requires that the salts remain in contact with the salt during dyeing, so that the level of salt can be sufficiently submerged. As the dye bath rises to the top and the direction is changed to fall back to the saline solution, the dye is in contact with the saline solution in various directions and dyeing is possible. Therefore, sufficient dyeing is possible even at low bath ratio. As a result, the garment dyeing can realize a vintage effect at a low ratio of 1: 1-1: 10, and the dyeing capable of a low bath ratio is a cylindrical rotary type, and only a cylindrical rotary type can minimize the damage of the garment. It can be seen as a complex action. On the other hand, the direction of rotation is another important factor for uniform dyeing, and when the dye is rotated in only one direction, the shape of the garment is twisted to one side and stains are generated due to uneven salts, and the washer effect of the gentle wrinkles is also generated. Does not appear excellent. Therefore, when garment dyeing, the rotation should be able to proceed evenly in both directions.

According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the drum dyeing tank is provided with a cooling means, characterized in that the temperature can be maintained or controlled within a set temperature range. In the present invention, it is very important to be able to maintain the temperature of the drum type dye bath within a certain range. This is because the present invention imparts a high pressure at the time of dyeing the garment, and thus there is a possibility that the internal temperature due to the pressure may continuously increase. Therefore, if it is possible to maintain the temperature within the temperature range set by the cooling means in the dyeing tank it is possible to control the damage and form change of the garment caused by the temperature rise.

According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the high-pressure garment dyeing may further include a washing step and a dehydrating step of draining and washing the saline solution to the step after the step (b). Washing and dehydration is a step that must be accompanied in a conventional dyeing process, so the soap (soaping) used for washing or washing temperature, washing and dehydration time is not necessarily limited. However, it may be desirable to boil water for 10-50 minutes at 30-110 ° C. and dehydrate for 40-300 sec in a rotary dehydrator at 100-500 rpm.

The features and advantages of the present invention are summarized as follows;

(A) The present invention is a dyeing under the rotation of the dyeing tank in a closed drum dyeing tank, (i) adding a salt solution so that the bath ratio is 1: 1 to 1:10 to the weight of the garment; And (ii) dyeing the garment at a temperature of 40 to 130 ° C. and an air pressure of 2.0 to 3.0 bar.

(b) According to the present invention can improve the low color fastness generated in the conventional garment dyeing, it is possible to manufacture a garment with excellent natural washer effect (fuzz effect) and fade out effect.

(c) According to the present invention, garment dyeing can be applied to a material dyed at a high temperature, and the garment dyeing material can be expanded to a teaching fabric, a composite fabric, etc., because it is easy to control shrinkage and torsion of fibers vulnerable to temperature. .

(d) According to the present invention, it can be developed as a high value-added product by combining the sensitivity of synthetic fibers while complying with the vintage trend.

(e) The high-pressure garment dyeing of the present invention can be a low-cost ratio and low-temperature dyeing can be an environmentally friendly dyeing method to obtain waste water and energy savings.

(f) According to the present invention, since it can be easily applied to garments processed after water repellency, it can be re-dyed using clothes that can be discarded, thereby achieving cost reduction and recycling effects.

(g) According to the present invention, it is possible to ultimately secure the competitiveness of the high-end garment products and the technology of utilizing the composite fabrics mainly developed countries.

1 is a photograph showing a cross-section of the clothes before dyeing the high-pressure garment of a high shrink fabric.
Figure 2 is a photograph showing the cross-section of the clothes after high-pressure garment dyeing of high shrink fabric.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to Examples. It is to be understood that both the foregoing general description and the following detailed description are exemplary and explanatory only and are not to be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention. It will be self-evident.

Example

Throughout this specification,% used to refer to the concentration of a particular substance is (weight / weight)% solids / solid, (weight / volume)%, and liquid / Liquid is (volume / volume)%.

Example  One. Garment  Dyed Fabric Selection

The NP weaved composite yarn of 60 Denier / 36 Filament was selected as a garment-dyed fabric by assigning an Item Number to PP209 to a plain weave fabric woven with light and weft yarn 50:50. The selected PP209 was divided and highly contracted by applying the high shrink processing method known in Korean Patent No. 10-0977677. The specific method was as follows. First, let the temperature inside the dyeing apparatus be 20-40 ℃, then supply water, and based on the amount of water added, 10-30g / L sodium hydroxide and 1-4g / L depressant, 1-4g / L Softener and shrinking agent 5-200 g / L in the bath was added. PP209 dough after the decanting and refining process was added thereto, and the internal temperature of the dyeing apparatus was gradually raised to 0.5-2.0 ° C. per minute to reach 90-120 ° C., and maintained at 30-60 minutes at the final elevated temperature. Was aged. After the aging process, the dyeing machine temperature was gradually reduced to 0.5-2.0 ° C. per minute to 55-65 ° C., and water, sodium hydroxide, an inhibitor, a bath softener, and a shrinking agent were discharged. Then, water was supplied for 20-30 minutes to wash the dough, and the dough was taken out at 40 ° C by reducing the temperature of 2 ° C per minute until the dyeing machine temperature reached 40 ° C. Finally, the shrink-wrapped fabric BURW PP209 (sample name of the highly shrunk PP209) was selected for the high pressure garment dyeing.

Example  2. Trouser test and sewing

In order to reduce the burden of garment sewing costs, and to predict simple shrinkage, color reproducibility, and dye usage, first of all, high-pressure garment dyeing tests were performed before the pants. The hem test was carried out as follows. BURW PP209 prepared in Example 1 was cut to a size of 1.5 m long x 2 m wide, and each corner was sewn similarly to a hem end. Thus prepared five identical BURW PP209, washed with water at 70-100 ℃ 20 minutes in a rotary dyeing machine, and put into a garment dyeing machine.

When the fabric is ready, the dye is added to the machine so that the amount of salt added to the dyeing machine during dyeing can be 2-5 times the weight of the fiber and the leveling agent and disperse dye (based on the weight% of the dye by weight of water, Synoron Black SMD Liq: 15.0000% , Serilene Y / Brown RIS: 0.4000%, Foron Rubin SzG5L: 0.0500%) was added. The temperature of the dyeing machine is increased by 0.5-1 ° C per minute, leveling at 100-120 ° C for 20-80 minutes (leaving for fastness and uniform dyeing), and again decreasing temperature at 1-1.5 ° C per minute, 20-80 minutes at 30-60 ° C. After cooling, the first poly side was stained. At this time, the pressure of the dyeing machine was maintained at 2.0-3.0bar, the dyeing machine rotation speed was set to 50-80rpm. After dyeing the poly side, the saline solution was discharged and washed, and then the second nylon side was stained in the same manner. The nylon side was dyed using an acid dye (based on the weight% of water by weight, Acid Balck LDX: 1.0000%). The leveling temperature was 80-100 ° C. and the cooling temperature was maintained at 30-50 ° C. At this time, 0.5-5g / L of TK preparation was added to 10L of liquid after the first and second dyeing, respectively, and washed with hot water at 60-110 ° C for 10-50 minutes, using a rotary dehydrator at 40 at a rotational speed of 100-500rpm. Dehydration was carried out for -300 sec.

The length change rate according to the length and width changes of the BURW PP209 after dyeing was calculated and shown in Table 1 below, and the density change rate was measured and shown in Table 2 below. At this time, the shrinkage was calculated as "{(length after dyeing)-(length before dyeing)} / (length before dyeing)", and the density change rate was also "{(density after dyeing)-(density before dyeing)} / ( Density before dyeing "

According to BURW-PP209's dyeing test, the length change rate and density change rate were within 3-10%. It was not expected to appear. In order to perform the garment dyeing in earnest, the jacket product was sewn at an average size of 6.5-7% in consideration of the change rate.

ITEM Type Weight (g) direction (Mm) After (mm) Length change rate (%) BURW-PP209 Trouser 20 slope 200 190 5.00 Weft 150 145 3.33

ITEM Type Weight (g) direction (T) After (T) Density change rate (%) BURW-PP209 Trouser 20 slope 200 216 8.00 Weft 120 130 8.30

Example  3. high pressure Garment dyeing

The 6.5-7% oversize sewing jacket (BURW PP209) was dyed in the same manner as in the dyeing method for the short end test of Example 2. That is, it maintains a ratio of 1: 2-1: 5, and a pressure of 2.0-3.0 bar and a speed of 50-80 rpm, and the primary poly side dyeing is a disperse dye (based on the weight% of the dye by weight of water, Synoron Black SMD Liq : 15.0000%, Serilene Y / Brown RIS: 0.4000%, Foron Rubin SzG5L: 0.0500% The product was dyed. In the first dyeing, the temperature of the dyeing machine was increased by 0.5-1 ° C / min, maintained at 100-120 ° C for 20-80 minutes, and then leveled, and cooled again at 1-1.5 ° C / min, 30-60 ° C for 20-80 minutes. , The final elevated temperature in the leveling during the second dyeing was maintained at 80-100 ℃, cooling temperature 30-50 ℃. At this time, in the same manner as in Example 2, 0.5-5 g / L of TK preparation was added to 10 L of liquid after primary and secondary dyeing, and washed with hot water at 60-110 ° C. for 10-50 minutes, and then rotated using a rotary dehydrator. Dehydration was carried out for 40-300 sec at a speed of 100-500 rpm.

Example  4. High Pressure Garment  Product test by dyeing

Using the high-pressure garment dye product finished in Example 3, the test for density, dimensional change rate, tensile strength, tear strength, washing fastness, friction fastness, and dry cleaning fastness. The test was conducted by the Korea Fiber Research Institute (Laboratory environment: temperature 20 ± 2 ℃, relative humidity 65 ± 2%), and the results are shown in Table 3 below.

Test Items
(Unit specification) Test Methods
(unit) Test result Test condition / remarks division Before dyeing After dyeing density
(All / inchKS K 0511: 2004) (All / 2 .54cm) slope 200 210 Weft 120 127.4 Dimensional change rate
(%) (KS K ISO 5077: 2007) Washing machine
(%) slope -4.8 (-) Contraction, (+) height
* 130 ℃ / 40 minutes washing and net drying at the request of the client Weft -1.2 The tensile strength
(N) (KS K 0520: 2009) Grab Method 10x15cm (N) slope 480 512 Weft 278 250 Phosphorus strength
(N) (KS K ISO 13937-1: 2009) Pendulum method
(N) slope 16.1 15.8 Weft 8.7 8.9 Wash fastness
(Class) (KSK ISO 105-C06: 2007) A1S method
(class) Fading color 4-5 40 ℃, 30 minutes
0.4% ECE standard detergent, 10 beads  PET contamination 4 Nylon contamination 3-4 Friction fastness
(Class) (KS K 0650: 2011) Chronometer
(class) dry 3-4 10 times Wet 3-4 Dry cleaning fastness (class) (KSK ISO 105-D01: 2010) Perchlorethylene
(class) Fading color 4-5 30 ± 2 ℃, 30 minutes PET contamination 4 Nylon contamination 4

As a result of the test, BURW PP209 jacket product by high-pressure garment dyeing showed the effect of natural garment dyeing with dimensional change rate within 5%, and it was confirmed that the touch feeling is improved because the density is higher than before dyeing. In addition, the tensile and tear strengths did not show a significant change in the similar range, so there was no concern about the occurrence of strength degradation due to garment dyeing. Product maturity was evaluated as very good.

Example  5. Panel Evaluation

Panel evaluation was performed using the high-pressure garment dyed product completed in Example 3. The panel evaluation was divided into expert evaluation and general public evaluation, and was conducted with a room-temperature garment dye product (Nylon 100% material, the following comparative product) dyed with the same color. In the expert evaluation, the product quality was judged by the color evaluation, the torsion evaluation, and the seam loosening evaluation. In the general evaluation, preference comparison evaluation was conducted. In the expert evaluation, five dyeing experts, five sewing experts, and five designers were evaluated for the product. In the general evaluation, ten men and women consisting of 20-30 pairs were evaluated. The overall average result of the panel evaluation was as Table 4 below. The evaluation score was good or excellent (preferred) from 1 to 5 points out of 5 points.

Test Items Expert evaluation Public
Preference Rating Color evaluation
(Vintage effect) torsion Loosening Perfection Comparison products 4 4 4 4 3 High pressure garment
Dyeing products
(Invention) 5 4 4 5 5

As a result of the panel evaluation, the high-pressure garment dyeing product obtained the same score as the comparative product in the torsion and threading in the expert evaluation, but it was superior to the comparison product in the color evaluation and the product completeness according to the vintage effect. In particular, experts noted that the smooth wrinkles on the surface, the natural washing effect (wrinkle effect) and the fade out effect on the seam line were excellent. On the other hand, even in the case of the general public who can not accurately judge the subtle differences of the product was shown that the overall preference is very good (out of 5 points), it was judged that the customer satisfaction with the high-pressure garment dyeing product is very excellent.

Claims (13)

A high pressure garment dyeing method comprising dyeing under rotation of a dyeing tank in a closed drum dyeing tank, the method comprising the following steps;
(a) adding a salt solution such that the bath ratio is 1: 1 to 1:10 by weight of the garment; And
(b) dyeing the garment at a temperature of 40 to 130 ° C. and an air pressure of 2.0 to 3.0 bar;
The method of claim 1,
The garment of step (a) and (b) is a high pressure garment dyeing method, characterized in that the sewing semi-finished product or sewing finished product, taking into account the shrinkage of 1-15%.
3. The method of claim 2,
The sewing semi-finished product or sewing finished product is a high-pressure garment dyeing method, characterized in that the sewing product of the fabric controlled the shrinkage rate through a shaft fixing step at 40-100 ℃ temperature.
The method of claim 1,
The garment of step (a) and (b) is a high-pressure garment dyeing method, characterized in that the post-processed product or waste clothing.
The method of claim 1,
High pressure garment dyeing method characterized in that the bath ratio of step (a) is 1: 2 to 1: 5.
The method of claim 1,
Step (b) is a step of raising the temperature by 0.5-2 ℃ per minute leveling at 40-100 ℃ for 20-80 minutes, and then cooling by 20-60 ℃ for 20-80 minutes by reducing the temperature by 0.5-2 ℃ per minute High pressure garment dyeing method comprising a.
The method of claim 1,
Step (b) is to increase the temperature by 0.5-2 ℃ per minute leveled at 80-130 ℃ for 20-80 minutes, and then reduced by 0.5-2 ℃ per minute to cool at 20-60 ℃ 20-80 minutes High pressure garment dyeing method comprising the step.
The method of claim 1,
Step (b) is a high pressure garment dye method comprising the following steps;
(Iii) raising the temperature by 0.5-2 ° C. per minute, leveling at 40-100 ° C. for 20-80 minutes, and then decreasing the temperature by 0.5-2 ° C. per minute and cooling at 20-60 ° C. for 20-80 minutes;
(Ii) draining the saline solution used in step (iii) and washing the garment;
(Iii) adding salt solution and raising the temperature by 0.5-2 ° C. per minute, leveling at 80-130 ° C. for 20-80 minutes, and then decreasing the temperature by 0.5-2 ° C. and cooling at 20-60 ° C. for 20-80 minutes. step.
The method of claim 1,
Step (b) is a high pressure garment dye method comprising the following steps;
(Iii) raising the temperature by 0.5-2 [deg.] C. per minute for leveling at 80-130 [deg.] C. for 20-80 minutes, and then decelerating by 0.5-2 [deg.] C. for 20-80 minutes at 20-60 [deg.] C .;
(Ii) draining the saline solution used in step (iii) and washing the garment;
(Iii) adding salt solution and raising the temperature by 0.5-2 ° C. per minute, leveling at 40-100 ° C. for 20-80 minutes, and then decreasing the temperature by 0.5-2 ° C. and cooling at 20-60 ° C. for 20-80 minutes. step.
The method of claim 1,
High-pressure garment dyeing method characterized in that the rotation of the dye bath is carried out at a rotational speed of 50-80rpm.
11. The method of claim 10,
Rotation of the dye bath is a high pressure garment dyeing method characterized in that the drum-type dye bath is carried out by using a combination of forward rotation and reverse rotation.
The method of claim 1,
The drum dyeing tank is a high pressure garment dyeing method characterized in that the cooling means is provided to control the temperature within the set temperature range.
The method of claim 1,
The high pressure garment dyeing method further comprises a washing step and a dewatering step of draining and washing the salt solution to the step after the step (b).

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