JPWO2018092175A1 - 油性組成物および油性化粧料 - Google Patents
油性組成物および油性化粧料 Download PDFInfo
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- JPWO2018092175A1 JPWO2018092175A1 JP2018550885A JP2018550885A JPWO2018092175A1 JP WO2018092175 A1 JPWO2018092175 A1 JP WO2018092175A1 JP 2018550885 A JP2018550885 A JP 2018550885A JP 2018550885 A JP2018550885 A JP 2018550885A JP WO2018092175 A1 JPWO2018092175 A1 JP WO2018092175A1
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- A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
- A61Q1/10—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for eyes, e.g. eyeliner, mascara
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- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
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- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
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Abstract
Description
(a)デキストリン脂肪酸エステルを1〜20質量%と、
(b)常圧における沸点が250℃以下の揮発性油分を5質量%未満と、
(c)常温、常圧で液状の不揮発性油分を10〜60質量%と、
(d)シリコーン樹脂粉末を10〜50質量%と、
を含むものである。
(d1)シリコーンゴム粉末はジメチコンを含むクロスポリマーであることが好ましい。
(a)デキストリン脂肪酸エステルを1〜20質量%と、
(b)常圧における沸点が250℃以下の揮発性油分を5質量%未満と、
(c)常温、常圧で液状の不揮発性油分を10〜60質量%と、
(d)シリコーン樹脂粉末を10〜50質量%と、
を含むので、デキストリン脂肪酸エステルを含んでいてもさらさらとした使用性を有し、凹凸補正効果に極めて優れる。
また、本発明の油性組成物は気密性を有しない容器に充填することが可能であるため、汎用性や経済性等の高い容器を選択することができるとともに、使用者においても使い勝手のよい油性化粧料とすることができる。
(a)デキストリン脂肪酸エステルを1〜20質量%と、
(b)常圧における沸点が250℃以下の揮発性油分を5質量%未満と、
(c)不揮発性油分を10〜60質量%と、
(d)シリコーン樹脂粉末を10〜50質量%と、
を含むものである。
ここで、油性組成物とは、油性成分を連続相とし、油中に粉体が分散している状態の組成物を指し、5質量%以下で植物抽出物や水、アルコールを含むことができる。また、油性組成物は、固形であってもよいし、流動体であってもよい。
以下、各成分について詳細に説明する。
デキストリン脂肪酸エステルは、デキストリンと直鎖または分岐のアルキル基(好ましくは炭素数3〜30)を有する脂肪酸とのエステルであり、デキストリンにピリジンを塩基性触媒に用いて加熱下に脂肪酸クロライドを反応させることにより得られる。
デキストリンに、ミリスチン酸、パルミチン酸、パルミトレイン酸、ステアリン酸、イソステアリン酸、オレイン酸、リノール酸、リノレン酸、アラキン酸、ヘキサン酸、デカン酸および、分岐や水酸基やフェニル基等の置換基を有したこれら脂肪酸を結合したものが好ましい。
特に好ましくは、パルミチン酸デキストリンである。
常圧における沸点が250℃以下の揮発性油分としては、例えば、イソパラフィン(約225℃)、オクタメチルシクロテトラシロキサン(175℃)、デカメチルシクロペンタシロキサン(210℃)、ドデカメチルシクロペンタシロキサン(245℃)等の環状ポリシロキサン、沸点が250℃以下のジメチルポリシロキサン、およびこれら誘導体等が挙げられる。好ましくは、環状ポリシロキサンである。
常圧における沸点が250℃以下の揮発性油分の配合量は組成物全量に対して5質量%未満であり、好ましくは3質量%であり、より好ましくは1質量%未満であり、揮発性油分を含まないものとしてもよい。揮発性油分の配合量が5質量%未満であることにより、気密性を有しない容器に充填することが可能な油性組成物とすることができる。
不揮発性油分とは、常温(25℃)、常圧で揮発性を示さない液状油分である。不揮発性油分としては、炭化水素油、エステル油、シリコーン油、紫外線吸収剤等が挙げられ、その含有量は組成物全量に対して10〜60質量%である。不揮発性油分の含有量が10質量%以上であることにより、適切に成型でき、また、指で容易に肌に塗布することができる。また、60質量%以下であることにより、べたつかない使用性、てからない仕上がりを得ることができ、基剤の発汗や流動を抑制することができ安定性を保つことが可能となる。不揮発性油分の含有量は、20〜60質量%がより好ましく、30〜60質量%がさらに好ましい。外観の透明性を高める場合には、屈折率1.4〜1.6の液状油分がより好ましい。油分の屈折率とはデジタル屈折率計(ATAGO社製タイプ:RX5000α)にて測定した値であり、例えば、ジメチルポリシロキサン(約1.40)、流動パラフィン(約1.47)等が挙げられる。
(1)安息香酸系紫外線吸収剤
例えば、パラアミノ安息香酸(以下、PABAと略す)、PABAモノグリセリンエステル、N,N−ジプロポキシPABAエチルエステル、N,N−ジエトキシPABAエチルエステル、N,N−ジメチルPABAエチルエステル、N,N−ジメチルPABAブチルエステル、N,N−ジメチルPABAエチルエステルなど。
例えば、ホモメンチル−N−アセチルアントラニレートなど。
(3)サリチル酸系紫外線吸収剤
例えば、アミルサリシレート、メンチルサリシレート、ホモメンチルサリシレート、オクチルサリシレート、フェニルサリシレート、ベンジルサリシレート、p−イソプロパノールフェニルサリシレートなど。
例えば、オクチルシンナメート、エチル−4−イソプロピルシンナメート、メチル−2,5−ジイソプロピルシンナメート、エチル−2,4−ジイソプロピルシンナメート、メチル−2,4−ジイソプロピルシンナメート、プロピル−p−メトキシシンナメート、イソプロピル−p−メトキシシンナメート、イソアミル−p−メトキシシンナメート、オクチル−p−メトキシシンナメート(2−エチルヘキシル−p−メトキシシンナメート)、2−エトキシエチル−p−メトキシシンナメート、シクロヘキシル−p−メトキシシンナメート、エチル−α−シアノ−β−フェニルシンナメート、2−エチルヘキシル−α−シアノ−β−フェニルシンナメート、グリセリルモノ−2−エチルヘキサノイル−ジパラメトキシシンナメートなど。
例えば、ビスレゾルシニルトリアジンなど。
さらに具体的には、ビス{〔4−(2−エチルヘキシロキシ)−2−ヒドロキシ〕フェニル}−6−(4−メトキシフェニル)1,3,5−トリアジン、2,4,6−トリス{4−(2−エチルヘキシロキシカルボニル)アニリノ}1,3,5−トリアジンなど。
例えば、3−(4´−メチルベンジリデン)−d,l−カンファー、3−ベンジリデン−d,l−カンファー、2−フェニル−5−メチルベンゾキサゾール、2,2´−ヒドロキシ−5−メチルフェニルベンゾトリアゾール、2−(2´−ヒドロキシ−5´−t−オクチルフェニル)ベンゾトリアゾール、2−(2´−ヒドロキシ−5´−メチルフェニルベンゾトリアゾール、ジアニソイルメタン、4−メトキシ−4´−t−ブチルジベンゾイルメタン、5−(3,3−ジメチル−2−ノルボルニリデン)−3−ペンタン−2−オン、ジモルホリノピリダジノンなどのピリダジン誘導体。
シリコーン樹脂粉末としては、屈折率1.3〜1.6であり、平均粒径0.1〜30μmのシリコーン粉末、例えば、モメンティブ社製のトスパールシリーズ、信越化学工業(株)社製のシリコンパウダーKMPシリーズ、日興リカ社製のMSPシリーズなどのポリメチルシルセスキオキサンなどを好ましく挙げることができる。また、(d)シリコーン樹脂粉末には、(d1)シリコーンゴム粉末を含むことが好ましい。より好ましくはジメチコン含むクロスポリマーであるシリコーンゴム粉末(架橋型ポリシロキサン)が好ましく、例えば、(ジメチコン/ビニルジメチコン)クロスポリマー等が挙げられる。シリコーンゴム粉末(架橋型ポリシロキサン)の市販品としては、例えば、東レ・ダウコ−ニング社製のトレフィルEシリーズ、COSMETIC POWDERシリーズ、信越化学工業(株)社製のKSPシリーズ、KSGシリーズなどを挙げることができる。粉末の屈折率および平均粒径は文献値を参考にした。
本発明の油性組成物は、シリコーン樹脂粉末以外の球状粉末をさらに含んでいてもよい。
球状粉末としては、球状シリカ、球状ナイロン粉末、球状ポリアクリル酸アルキル、架橋ポリスチレン−スクアラン混合末、セルロース粉末および無水ケイ酸末等が挙げられる。球状粉末は、無孔質のものであっても、多孔質のものであってもよい。また高吸油量であっても、低吸油量であってもよい。これらの1種以上を、油性組成物の100質量%に対し、0.005〜20質量%の範囲で含めることができる。好ましくは、0.005〜15質量%が好ましい。球状粉末の添加により、少なくとも油性組成物の使用の際の肌上の毛穴をかくし、きめを整え、皮脂の吸着性を改善するのに役立ち、化粧もち効果をより高めることができる。
ビタミンとしては、例えば、ビタミンA、B1、B2、B6、C、Eおよびその誘導体、パントテン酸およびその誘導体、ビオチン等が挙げられる。
[外観]
実施例および比較例で得られた油性固形組成物を7mm厚になるように白色樹脂容器に流し込み、室温にて外観を評価した。
A:表面がなめらかで異常なし
B:透明または白色ではなく、変色する
C:ポロポロの塊状になり、流し込み成型ができない
実施例および比較例で得られたサンプルを塗布し、さらさら感、マットな仕上がり、均一な仕上がり、凹凸補正効果について、専門パネル20名による官能評価を行った。5段階で評価し、20名のスコアの平均値を4段階判定基準により判定した。
<5段階評価基準>
5 非常に良い
4 良い
3 普通
2 やや悪い
1 悪い
<4段階判定基準>
AA 4点以上
A 3点以上4点未満
B 2点以上3点未満
C 2点未満
評価結果を組成とともに表1に示した。
一方、シリコーン樹脂粉末が多い比較例1ではよれが生じた。また、シリコーン樹脂粉末ではなく、球状無水ケイ酸を用いた比較例2や3では無孔質、多孔質に係らず、凹凸補正効果が不充分で、マットな仕上がりにはならなかった。また組成物に黄変が見られたり、比較例3では塊状になって成型ができなかった。球状ポリウレタンを用いた比較例4でも凹凸補正効果が不充分で、よれが生じ、また、塊状になって成型ができなかった。また、球状ポリエチレンを用いた比較例5でも、凹凸補正効果が不充分で、よれやざらつきが生じ、また、塊状になって成型ができなかった。
処方例1:化粧下地
デキストリン脂肪酸エステル 8
流動パラフィン 14
ミリスチン酸イソプロピル 10
不揮発性ジメチルポリシロキサン 18
メトキシケイ皮酸オクチル(オクチル−p−メトキシシンナメート) 2
エチルヘキシルトリアゾン 1
ポリメチルシルセスキオキサン 18
(ジメチコン/ビニルジメチコン)クロスポリマー 15
球状無水ケイ酸 12
不定形無水ケイ酸 1
酸化防止剤 適量
保湿剤 適量
消泡剤 適量
デキストリン脂肪酸エステル 13.50
流動パラフィン 15
トリエチルヘキサノイン 7.50
ミリスチン酸イソプロピル 9.50
不揮発性ジメチルポリシロキサン 17.50
ビスブチルジメチコンポリグリセリル−3 1
ポリメチルシルセスキオキサン 15
(ジメチコン/ビニルジメチコン)クロスポリマー 7
球状無水ケイ酸 12
不定形無水ケイ酸 1
酸化チタン 適量
酸化防止剤 適量
保湿剤 適量
香料 適量
消泡剤 適量
デキストリン脂肪酸エステル 13.50
流動パラフィン 22.50
トリエチルヘキサノイン 8
ジフェニルシロキシフェニルトリメチコン 10
不揮発性ジメチルポリシロキサン 15
ポリメチルシルセスキオキサン 15
(ジメチコン/ビニルジメチコン)クロスポリマー 4
不定形無水ケイ酸 1
酸化チタン 適量
酸化鉄 適量
赤226 1.50
マイカ 3
パール剤 6
酸化防止剤 適量
保湿剤 適量
香料 適量
消泡剤 適量
デキストリン脂肪酸エステル 14
流動パラフィン 10
トリエチルヘキサノイン 10
ジフェニルシロキシフェニルトリメチコン 10
不揮発性ジメチルポリシロキサン 10
ポリメチルシルセスキオキサン 12
(ジメチコン/ビニルジメチコン)クロスポリマー 1.50
不定形無水ケイ酸 1
酸化鉄 12
パール剤 13
酸化防止剤 適量
保湿剤 適量
香料 適量
消泡剤 適量
Claims (5)
- 油性組成物100質量%に対し、
(a)デキストリン脂肪酸エステルを1〜20質量%と、
(b)常圧における沸点が250℃以下の揮発性油分を5質量%未満と、
(c)常温、常圧で液状の不揮発性油分を10〜60質量%と、
(d)シリコーン樹脂粉末を10〜50質量%と、
を含む油性組成物。 - 前記(d)シリコーン樹脂粉末に(d1)シリコーンゴム粉末を油性組成物100質量%に対し0.1〜46質量%含む請求項1記載の油性組成物。
- 前記(d1)シリコーンゴム粉末がジメチコンを含むクロスポリマーである請求項2記載の油性組成物。
- さらに(e)球状粉末を含む請求項1、2または3記載の油性組成物。
- 請求項1から4いずれか1項記載の油性組成物が気密性を有しない容器に充填されてなる油性化粧料。
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- 2016-11-17 CN CN201680090729.XA patent/CN109922784A/zh active Pending
- 2016-11-17 KR KR1020197013432A patent/KR20190084968A/ko unknown
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JP2010070459A (ja) * | 2008-09-16 | 2010-04-02 | Tokiwa Corp | 油性固形化粧料の製造方法及び油性固形化粧料 |
JP2011105662A (ja) * | 2009-11-18 | 2011-06-02 | Shin-Etsu Chemical Co Ltd | 化粧料 |
JP2011231042A (ja) * | 2010-04-27 | 2011-11-17 | Shiseido Co Ltd | 唇用化粧料 |
JP2015000854A (ja) * | 2013-06-14 | 2015-01-05 | 株式会社 資生堂 | 凹凸補正用化粧料 |
WO2015014789A1 (en) * | 2013-07-31 | 2015-02-05 | L'oreal | Anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising alkylcellulose, at least one branched dextrin ester and at least one fatty alcohol |
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EP3542783A4 (en) | 2020-06-24 |
CN109922784A (zh) | 2019-06-21 |
US20190262252A1 (en) | 2019-08-29 |
TW201818918A (zh) | 2018-06-01 |
WO2018092175A1 (ja) | 2018-05-24 |
EP3542783A1 (en) | 2019-09-25 |
JP6948341B2 (ja) | 2021-10-13 |
KR20190084968A (ko) | 2019-07-17 |
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