JPS6310681B2 - - Google Patents

Description

[Detailed description of the invention]

The present invention focuses on human skin surface lipids (hereinafter abbreviated as sebum).
The present invention relates to a sebum-like composition for cosmetics that has a composition and physical properties similar to those of the above, and is expected to have physiological effects on the skin. On the surface of the skin, there is always a sebum film formed of two major components: sebum secreted from sebaceous glands and sweat secreted from sweat glands. This sebum film was published in Fragrance Journal No. 25 (1977)
As mentioned in , it coats the skin surface as an emollient and prevents dryness.
Gives flexibility and elasticity, relieves physical forces from the outside, prevents the intrusion of chemical harmful substances, prevents bacterial infection, acts as a poor conductor of heat, keeps you warm and protects you from cold. Generally, it has functions such as protecting the skin from harmful effects, regulating the skin appropriately against conditions such as excessive humidity and dryness caused by climate changes, and assisting in the normal formation of the stratum corneum. known to. When considering the function of the sebum membrane, it can be said that sebum, which is a component of the sebum membrane, is a physiological nourishing cream. By the way, the amount of sebum secreted by human skin tends to decrease with age, and it especially decreases in cold weather or when exposed to cold wind, causing the skin to become dry and cracked. Therefore, in order to prevent these or maintain normal skin functions, it is necessary to replenish oils that have a composition and properties similar to sebum and behave similar to sebum on the skin surface. is necessary. Based on this perspective, natural oils such as mink oil, lanolin, whale oil, and vegetable oils, and synthetic oils such as branched higher fatty acid esters and squalane have been used alone or in combination in cosmetics as a form of oil replenishment. Attempts have been made to apply this to the skin, but this has not yet been satisfactory. On the other hand, artificial sebum having a composition similar to that of sebum is disclosed in US Pat. No. 884,688, Canadian Patent No. 629,433, and Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 14645/1984. However, although these methods approximate the composition of sebum to some extent, they are still insufficient.
Furthermore, physical properties, i.e. melting properties that correspond to temperature changes,
No consideration has been given to the external appearance, viscosity, refractive index, specific heat, surface tension, etc. at room temperature. In addition, in recent years, research in dermatology has progressed, and the composition of sebum has been somewhat elucidated, but there are still many details that are unclear, and the composition is also artificial at the current technological level. The reality is that there are substances that are impossible to synthesize. Under these circumstances, it was clear that it was not possible to obtain sebum that was completely homogeneous in composition with sebum. As a result of intensive research into a sebum-like composition that is extremely similar to sebum in its composition and properties, and which can provide an unprecedented amount of oil to the skin, the inventors first found out that the sebum-like composition contained in natural sebum, We newly synthesized a triglyceride similar to the triglyceride contained in natural sebum, and in addition, created a new wax ester similar to the wax ester contained in natural sebum. By using the essential components in combination, we have finally found the desired invention. Myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, oleic acid and linoleic acid each from 10.1 to
13.5:29.2~51.3:20.7~37.7:26.5~41.2:3.8~
20-50% triglyceride of mixed higher fatty acids and glycerin with a composition ratio of 5.4 (weight percentage, same below), mixed wax ester 15-30%, mixed free fatty acid 8-25%, squalene 5-15%, cholesterol It is characterized by a composition consisting of 2 to 5% of The newly synthesized triglyceride applied to the present invention has a composition ratio of myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, oleic acid, and linoleic acid, respectively.
10.1~13.5: 29.2~51.3: 20.7~37.7: 26.5~
41.2:3.8~5.4 preferably 10.5~12.3:35.2~
An ester of mixed higher fatty acid and glycerin having a composition ratio of 45.3:20.7 to 29.7:36.5 to 41.1:4.1 to 4.9, for example 11.1:41.0:22.7:40.7:4.5, is used. (The above composition ratios include some errors.) The newly created mixed wax esters include oleyl stearate, oleyl oleate, and 2-hexyldecanyl-2-
A mixture of octyl dodecanates is used, and these are included in the sebum composition with oleyl stearate at 8-12%, oleyl oleate at 2-5%, 2-
Hexyldecanyl-2-octyldodecanate is preferably used at a composition ratio of 5 to 8%, and in addition to these, 2-ethylhexyl-2-octyldodecanate, 2-heptylundecanyl-2-octyl Dodecanate, 2-tetradecyl octadecanyl-2-ethylhexanate, 2-
Wax esters with higher alcohols can be used as well as linear or branched saturated or unsaturated higher fatty acids having 8 to 32 carbon atoms such as tetralauryl-2-octyldodecanate. Mixed free fatty acids include lauric acid, myristic acid,
A mixture of palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, heptadecanoic acid, stearic acid, and oleic acid is used as an essential component, and others have 12 to 30 carbon atoms.
linear saturated and/or unsaturated fatty acids may be used in addition to these. As cholesterol, cholesterol, cholesterol palmitate, and cholesterol oleate are used in combination in a total amount of 2 to 5% in the sebum-like composition as described above, and more specifically, 1 to 1% of each is used in the total amount. It is selected in the range of ~2%. Next, in order to demonstrate how close the physical properties of the sebum-like composition of the present invention are to genuine sebum, we investigated (a) meltability in response to temperature changes, (b) appearance at room temperature, and (c) Various measurement results such as viscosity, (d) refractive index, (e) specific heat, (f) surface tension, and (g) transepidermal water permeation are shown below. (a) Melting properties in response to temperature changes: The melting pattern was measured using a differential scanning calorimeter. This is illustrated in Figure 1 of the drawings. The measurement results for (b) to (g) are shown in Table 1 below.

[Table] The above measurements (c) to (g) were carried out by the following method.

【table】

[Table] Next, production examples of sebum-like compositions are shown in Table 2 below. The manufacturing method was carried out by mixing the following components according to the composition ratio, heating and melting at 80°C, and then rapidly cooling to 0°C. The unit is weight %. (In addition, other known manufacturing methods may be used.)

【table】

[Table] The sebum-like composition obtained in Production Example 1 above was applied to 10 women with dry skin, and after 2 minutes, a comparison of the lump image before application and the lump image 2 minutes after application revealed that It was found that the skin surface became smooth and fine-textured. In addition, the contact angle (average value) of water on the foreheads of 10 healthy women after washing their faces with soap was approximately 90°, indicating a hydrophobic surface. When I applied the product, my face became about 35 degrees, almost the same as before washing. This proves that a membrane with appropriate hydrophilicity was regenerated on the skin surface in the same way as the normal skin surface. Furthermore, the temperature in the melting pattern of the sebum-like composition according to Production Example 1 of the present invention, the artificial sebum (fatty acid ester) disclosed in JP-A-49-14645, and the real sebum measured by a differential scanning calorimeter. The results of measuring the solid fat remaining amount (%) for the second
As shown in the figure. From FIG. 2, it can be seen that the sebum-like composition of the present invention exhibits a melting pattern similar to that of natural sebum in terms of physical properties, whereas the artificial sebum disclosed in the above-mentioned publication is in a high temperature range from around 10°C or higher. It is clear that the amount of solid fat has increased significantly. Therefore,
It is understood that when the product of the present invention is applied to the skin, it does not give a feeling of discomfort, whereas the artificial sebum covers the skin with a hard film and exhibits a tendency different from the natural state. Furthermore, the sebum-like composition of the present invention contains free fatty acids that have skin PH adjustment and bactericidal effects to keep the skin healthy, as well as squalene and cholesterol that are effective in softening the skin, making it a natural sebum-like composition. It has very similar properties and is better in blending onto the skin and acting as a skin protective film than the artificial sebum. The sebum-like composition for cosmetics of the present invention obtained as described above exhibits a semi-solid, milky white appearance at room temperature, and can be used in ointments, lotions, etc. by adjusting the amount used.
When used as part or all of the oil phase in creams, sticks, etc., it forms a film similar to sebum on the skin surface, making it extremely effective as a skin conditioner. In addition, it actually melts at skin surface temperature, blends well into the skin, and does not cause discomfort like oils used in conventional cosmetics, such as lanolin and natural oils, and at the same time improves skin flexibility. , it can certainly contribute to elasticity as well. Moreover, rough skin, cracks,
It can be expected to have a medicinal or quasi-drug therapeutic effect on a wide variety of symptoms such as dry, dry skin. Furthermore, other uses of the sebum-like composition of the present invention other than those mentioned above include use in cleaning effect tests of cosmetics for face washing, hair washing, etc., and as samples for cleaning effect tests of various detergents as a substitute for dirt. can. It is also effective as a research sample for the interaction between sebum and cosmetics, and as a sample for experimentally demonstrating the functions of sebum. Next, examples of skin conditioners containing the sebum-like composition of the present invention will be shown. The blending ratio is in weight%. Example 1 Ointment Vitamin E acetate 1.0 Sebum-like composition (manufacturing example 1) 98.0 Fragrance Appropriate amount of preservative Antioxidant Example 2 Lotion propylene glycol 3.0 POE (50) hydrogenated castor oil 1.0 Sebum-like composition (manufacturing) Example 3) 1.0 Distilled water 89.0 Ethanol 5.0 Fragrance Appropriate amount of preservative〃 Example 3 Cleansing sebum-like composition (Production example 1) 4.0 Triethanolamine myristate 30.0 Glycerin 15.0 Distilled water 50.0 Fragrance Appropriate amount of preservative〃 Antioxidant 〃 Example 4 Emulsion sebum-like composition (Production Example 2) 44.0 POE (20) Sorbitan monooleate 4.0 Sorbitan monooleate 2.0 Distilled water 50.0 Fragrance Appropriate amount of preservative 〃 Example 5 Xiangpu POE lauryl ether sulfate triethanolamine salt 15.0 Coconut Oil fatty acid monoethanolamide 2.0 Sebum-like composition (manufacturing example 1) 1.0 Distilled water 81.0 Fragrance Appropriate amount Pigment

[Brief explanation of the drawing]

FIG. 1 shows a thermogram obtained by measuring the melting pattern using a differential scanning calorimeter.
B is genuine sebum, C is artificial sebum as described in Canadian Patent No. 629433. FIG. 2 is a graph of the results of measuring the residual amount of solid fat against temperature in a melting pattern using a differential scanning calorimeter, in which a is a sebum-like composition according to Production Example 1 of the present invention, b is a genuine sebum,
c is the artificial sebum disclosed in JP-A-49-14645.

Claims (1)

[Scope of Claims] 1 Myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, oleic acid and linoleic acid each have a content of 10.1 to
13.5:29.2~51.3:20.7~37.7:26.5~41.2:3.8~
20-50% triglyceride of mixed higher fatty acids and glycerin with a composition ratio of 5.4 (weight percentage, same below), mixed wax ester 15-30%, mixed free fatty acid 8-25%, squalene 5-15%, cholesterol A sebum-like composition for cosmetics, characterized by comprising 2 to 5% of the following.