JPS6141891B2 - - Google Patents

Description

[Detailed description of the invention]

The present invention relates to a cream or milky lotion skin cosmetic that is improved by using sodium bentonite as an emulsifier in combination with hydrogenated lecithin having an iodine value within a specific range. In detail, it does not discolor or change odor even when stored for a long period of time, has good emulsion stability and gloss, and is easy to use in makeup (removal, spread, etc.).
This invention relates to a cream or milky lotion skin cosmetic that has excellent texture (fresh feel, moisture feeling), water resistance, water repellency, and moisturizing properties. Conventionally, the requirements for emulsified skin cosmetics such as creams and emulsions are (1) high safety without irritating the skin; (2) Milk should have good stability even during long-term storage, and should not cause odor or discoloration.
(3) Good appearance such as texture and gloss. (4) Good release, spreadability, feel (gives a refreshing or moisturizing feeling to the skin, does not give a sticky feeling), etc. when used. (5) Provide appropriate moisturizing properties (water retention) to the skin. (6) The cosmetic coating film has high water resistance and water repellency, and does not easily re-emulsify or run off even when it comes into contact with large amounts of water or sweat, and has good makeup retention. etc. However, in order to satisfy these conditions, careful formulation design such as the selection and specific combination of emulsifiers and the combined use of special base materials has been carried out, but it is not easy to achieve these objectives. Emulsified cosmetics (eg, creams, etc.) that use common synthetic emulsifiers (eg, anionic or nonionic surfactants) as emulsifiers (1) are generally highly irritating to the skin. (2) Manufacturing conditions (temperature, stirring power, cooling rate, etc.)
influences the quality of the final product, and it is difficult to obtain products with uniform quality. (3) Condition changes (separation, syneresis, etc.) are likely to occur over time. (4) It tends to give a sticky feeling when used. (5) Cosmetic coatings tend to re-emulsify or wash off due to large amounts of water or sweat. There are drawbacks such as. JP-A-57-16812 and JP-A-57-38936 disclose a base component containing synthetic bentonite (Laponite XLG), an aqueous phase component containing parabens (or amino acids), or higher fatty acids. A method for producing an emulsified composition (for example, cream) using a complex obtained by mixing and vigorously stirring oil phase components containing as an emulsifying agent is disclosed. However, although the emulsion compositions obtained by these methods cause little skin irritation, they are inferior in emulsion stability, gloss, feel, and water resistance (water repellency). Ordinary lecithin (unhydrogenated lecithin) is known as an emulsifier, but when used as an emulsifier in emulsified cosmetics, its emulsifying power is insufficient, and it changes color (coloration) and odor (deterioration) over time. There is a drawback that this occurs. The present inventors have previously demonstrated that emulsified cosmetics that use sodium bentonite and water-soluble polymers (e.g., xanthan gum) in combination as emulsifiers are safe, do not cause skin irritation, and have excellent emulsion stability, spreadability, feel, and appearance. However, it was found that it was difficult to provide sufficient water retention and water resistance (water repellency). As a result of intensive research in view of the current situation, the present inventors have found that the above-mentioned requirements are fully satisfied when using sodium-type bentonite, which will be described later, and hydrogenated lecithin with an iodine value in a specific range as an emulsifier. obtain. The present invention was completed based on the discovery that excellent cream or emulsion skin cosmetics can be easily obtained. The purpose of the present invention is to provide a product that is resistant to discoloration or discoloration even after long-term storage, has good emulsion stability and gloss, and has good usability (removal, spreading, etc.) during makeup use, and texture (fresh feel, smooth texture, etc.). smooth feel), water resistance, water repellency,
Another object of the present invention is to provide a cream-like or emulsion-like skin cosmetic with excellent moisturizing properties. That is, in the present invention, cation-exchangeable sodium ions are added at 100 mg equivalent/100 g to 160 mg equivalent/100
It is a cream-like or emulsion-like skin cosmetic prepared by blending sodium-type bentonite containing 1.5 g, hydrogenated lecithin with an iodine value of 1 g/100 g to 35 g/100 g, an oily substance, and water. Hereinafter, embodiments of the present invention will be explained in detail. The sodium bentonite used in the present invention is sodium montmorillonite, which is a type of natural colloidal hydrous aluminum silicate.
It has high purity, cation exchange ability, hydration ability, and swelling ability. Preferred sodium-type bentonite usually has a cation-exchangeable sodium ion content of 100 mg equivalent/100 g to 160 mg equivalent/100 g (more preferably 115 mg equivalent/100 g to 140 mg equivalent/100 g).
g), and the viscosity of the 4% by weight aqueous dispersion is
Many are within the range of 150 to 800 centipoise. Such high purity sodium montmorillonite is obtained from special mines or through special physical and chemical treatments. The amount of sodium bentonite in the present invention is 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 4.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the prescription components of the cosmetic. If it is less than 0.1% by weight, emulsion stability and stability over time tend to decrease, and if it exceeds 5% by weight, the texture, gloss, and feel of the emulsion during use tend to deteriorate. The iodine value of hydrogenated lecithin used in the present invention is
1g/100g to 35g/100g. Iodine value is 1
If it is lower than g/100g, the gloss tends to decrease, and 35
When it becomes larger than g/100g, emulsion stability,
Stability over time tends to decrease, and there is a tendency for discoloration and odor to occur. Such hydrogenated lecithin with a low iodine value is usually obtained by hydrogenating egg yolk lecithin or soybean lecithin under high pressure, and is therefore called hydrogenated lecithin. The amount of lecithin in the present invention is usually
0.05-7.0% by weight, preferably 0.1-5.0% by weight. If it is less than 0.05% by weight, emulsion stability and stability over time tend to deteriorate, and if it exceeds 7.0% by weight, emulsion stability decreases and tends to give a sticky and unpleasant feel. The oily substances used in the present invention are oily substances for cosmetics, and include, for example, oils and fats, waxes, hydrocarbons, ester oils, higher alcohols, higher fatty acids, and glycerides. Examples of oils and fats include castor oil, olym oil, avocado oil, balm oil, cacao oil, etc.; examples of waxes include wood wax, lanolin, beeswax, paraffin wax, carnauba wax, and candelilla wax; and examples of hydrocarbons include, for example. , petrolatum, liquid paraffin, ceresin,
Microcrystalline wax, squalane, etc.
Examples of ester oils include butyl stearate, octyldodecyl myristate, isopropyl myristate, lanolin fatty acid isopropyl ester, butyl stearate, hexyl lanolate, oleyl oleate, diisopropyl adipate, and diisopropyl sebatate. Examples of higher alcohols such as esters include stearyl alcohol and oleyl alcohol acid, and examples of higher fatty acids include lauric acid, myristic acid,
Palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, behenic acid, lanolin fatty acid, etc., and higher fatty acid glycerides include, but are not limited to, stearic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride, stearic acid diglyceride, etc. The oily substances are used alone or in combination of two or more, and the blending amount is 5 to 60% by weight.
Preferably it is 15 to 50% by weight. The selection and use of oily substances differ depending on the type of cosmetic and are not limited in any way. The amount of water used is usually 30-95% by weight, preferably
It is 50-90% by weight. Furthermore, small amounts of cosmetic medicinal ingredients, fragrances, preservatives, coloring agents, etc. may be added as desired. In order to obtain the emulsified cosmetic composition of the present invention, ordinary emulsification methods can be applied. For example, it can be easily obtained by heating an oil phase and an aqueous phase to 50 to 90°C, melting them, mixing them, and dispersing them with a homogenizer.
In this case, it is desirable to add bentonite to the water phase and lecithin to the oil phase. The cream or milky emulsion type cosmetic of the present invention has good emulsion stability and viscosity (hardness) stability, and has moisturizing properties, water resistance, water repellency, and texture (moist feeling, sweetness) during use. It has various properties such as making makeup last longer (brightness, coolness), and making hair soft and smooth. Therefore, it is extremely useful as skin cosmetics (eg, skin cream, skin milk, makeup base, sunscreen, etc.), hair cosmetics (eg, hair cream, hair treatment, etc.), and the like. Examples of the present invention will be described below. In the Examples, % means % by weight, and parts means parts by weight. The feel, moisture retention, viscosity stability, emulsion stability, water resistance, and water repellency were examined using the methods described below. (1) Feeling A practical test was conducted by 20 panelists.
The following items were evaluated (5-point scale), and the results were expressed as average values. Note that the higher the score, the better. Feel after application (fresh feeling, moist feeling) (2) Moisturizing property IBS impedance meter (IBS-
354 type). The measurements were carried out in a constant temperature room at 20° C. by applying a certain amount (0.2 g/(4 cm ² ) of the sample to the upper arm of an adult male, and then measuring the conductance (unit: micromho) over time. It is said that the higher the conductance, the lower the electrical resistance of the skin, and the better the moisture retention of the skin surface. (3) Viscosity stability (degree of viscosity change over time) Place the sample in a constant temperature bath at 45℃. The viscosity was measured using a B-type rotational viscometer at 30°C. (4) Emulsion stability The sample was placed in a constant temperature bath at 45°C, and the emulsified state and appearance after being left for 3 months. If no abnormalities are observed (the emulsion is uniform and a homogeneous emulsion is formed), it is considered good; if any abnormalities are observed (oil has separated, particles have become coarse, etc.) ) was judged as poor. (5) Water resistance test After applying a certain amount of squalane (oil-based substance) uniformly to a certain area of the back and chest of 10 panelists, immediately apply cotton wool impregnated with chloroform to each of those areas. Then, after swimming (water bathing) for 1 hour, wipe off another coated area in the same manner as above to prepare a sample for quantitative determination after swimming. ) was immersed in 50 mg of chloroform (oil) and extracted by stirring for 10 minutes under certain conditions.
Repeat this operation with new chloroform. Approximately 100 ml of the obtained chloroform extract is filled up to a certain amount (excess if there is any insoluble matter), and then squalane is quantified from a calibration curve using gas chromatography under the following conditions. Column: OV-1, stainless steel column: 1
m, Column temperature: 270℃, Injection temperature: 300℃, The amount of squalane obtained by wiping off immediately after application is set as 100, and the amount of squalane obtained by wiping off from another part after 1 hour of swimming is It is expressed as a survival rate, and the average value of 10 patients is shown. (6) Water repellency test After uniformly applying a certain amount of the emulsified cosmetic sample to the hands of 20 panelists, the water repellency of the skin on the applied fingers was examined by rubbing both hands together under running water for 1 minute. Ta. A 5-point system was used for evaluation, and the results were expressed as average values. In addition, the higher the score,
Indicates good water repellency. (7) Glossiness According to method 2 of the glossiness measurement method of JIS-Z-8741-1962. (8) Degree of discoloration Stable cream base (stearic acid 15%, liquid paraffin
10%, cetyl alcohol 2%, butylparaben
0.1%, glycerin 20%, sodium hydroxide 0.8
%, cream base consisting of 52.1% water) 100g
The degree of discoloration of sample cosmetics stored for one year was expressed numerically using standard hues colored by adding Red No. 213 and Yellow No. 203 as coloring agents in the prescribed amounts shown in Table 1 below. . Incidentally, a degree of color change of 0 means that there is no change in color, and a degree of 10 means that the degree of color change is most significant.

[Table] (9) Degree of odor change After preparing the cream base used for the standard hue for measuring the degree of discoloration, skatole, an odorous substance, was uniformly blended into 100 g of the cream base in the prescribed amounts shown in Table 2 below. A standard odor was created, and the degree of odor change was numerically expressed by comparing it with the odor level of sample cosmetics stored for one year. A degree of odor of 0 means that there is no odor at all, and a degree of 10 means that odor is the most significant. Table 2: Standard odor and amount of skatole added Amount of skatole added (g) 0 0 1 0.0002 2 0.0004 3 0.0006 4 0.0008 5 0.001 6 0.0012 7 0.0014 8 0.0016 9 0.0018 10 0.002 Example 1 (Milk of the invention liquid) (1) Prescription 1 Sodium bentonite (cation exchangeable sodium ion content 120mg/100g)
3.0 parts 2 Hydrogenated lecithin (hydrogenated egg yolk lecithin, iodine value 10g/100g) 2.0 parts 3 Squalane 25.0〃 4 Sorbic acid 0.2〃 5 Pure water 69.8〃 (2) Production Mix ingredients 2 and 3 above at about 80℃. Dissolve it uniformly (solution 1). After dissolving component 4 in component 5 at about 80° C., component 1 is uniformly dispersed. Next, the above solution 1 is added to this dispersion solution while stirring it with a homomixer to emulsify it. After emulsification, the mixture is dispersed for 15 minutes using a homomixer (7.500 rpm) while maintaining the temperature at 80°C, and then cooled to 30°C. (3) Properties of the emulsion are shown in Table 1 below. Comparative Example 1 The same procedure as in Example 1 was carried out, except that 0.3% by weight of xanthan gum was used instead of 2.0% by weight of hydrogenated lecithin, and 1.7 parts of pure water was added. The results are shown in Table 1 below. Comparative Example 2 The same procedure as in Example 1 was carried out, except that 0.6% by weight of methylparaben was used instead of 2.0% by weight of hydrogenated lecithin, and 1.4 parts of pure water was added. The results are shown in Table 1 below. Comparative Example 3 The same procedure as in Example 1 was carried out except that stearic acid was used instead of hydrogenated lecithin. The results are shown in Table 1 below. Comparative Example 4 Synthetic hectorite (trade name Laponite) was used instead of sodium bentonite.
The same procedure as in Example 1 was carried out. The results are shown in Table 1 below. Comparative Example 5 Leucine 0.3% instead of 2.0% by weight hydrogenated lecithin
Example 1 was carried out in the same manner as in Example 1, except that % by weight was used and 1.7 parts of pure water was added. The results are shown in Table 1 below.

[Table] As is clear from Table 1, the emulsion of the present invention prepared using a combination of sodium bentonite and hydrogenated lecithin is excellent in emulsion stability, water resistance (water repellency), feel, etc. An emulsion prepared by replacing hydrogenated lecithin with methylparaben and stearic acid had poor emulsion stability, water resistance, and texture. The emulsion obtained by using synthetic hectorite in place of sodium bentonite also had poor emulsion stability. Example 2 The same procedure as in Example 1 was conducted except that the content of cation-exchangeable sodium ions in the sodium bentonite was changed as shown in Table 2. The results are shown in Table 2. As is clear from Table 2, the content of cation-exchangeable sodium ions in the sodium bentonite of the present invention is 100 mg equivalent/100 g to 160 mg equivalent/100 g, preferably 115 mg equivalent/100 g to 140 mg.
Equivalent weight/100g.

[Table] Example 3 (Blending amount of sodium type bentonite) The present invention of Example 1 was used except that the blending amount of sodium type bentonite (cation exchangeable sodium ion content 120mg/100g) was changed as shown in Table 3. A milky lotion was prepared in the same manner. The results are shown in Table 3. As is clear from Table 3, the amount of sodium bentonite of the present invention is 0.1 to 5.0% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 4.0% by weight.

[Table] Example 4 (Iodine value of lecithin) A milky lotion was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the iodine value of lecithin was changed as shown in Table 4. The results are shown in Table 4. However, No.1, No. in the table.
No. 2, No. 3, No. 4, No. 5, No. 6, No. 7, and No. 8 used hydrogenated egg yolk lecithin, and No. 9 used soybean lecithin. No. 9 is unhydrogenated lecithin. As is clear from Table 4, the iodine value of the hydrogenated lecithin that can be used in the present invention is 1 to 35 g/100 g, preferably 3 to 20 g/100 g.

[Table] Example 5 (Amount of lecithin) Same as the present invention in Example 1 except that the amount of hydrogenated lecithin (hydrogenated egg yolk lecithin, iodine value 10g/100g) was changed as shown in Table 5. A milky lotion was prepared. The results are shown in Table 5. As is clear from Table 5, the amount of hydrogenated lecithin of the present invention is 0.05 to 7.0% by weight, preferably 0.1% by weight.
~5.0% by weight.

[Table] Example 6 (Amount of oily substance) An emulsion was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1 of the present invention except that the amount of oily substance (squalane) was changed as shown in Table 6. The results are shown in Table 6. As is clear from Table 6, the amount of the oily substance of the present invention is 5 to 60% by weight, preferably 15 to 50% by weight.
It is.

【table】

[Table] Example 7 (Skin cream of the present invention) (1) Prescription 1 Sodium bentonite (cation exchangeable sodium ion content 120 mg/100 g) 3.0 parts 2 Hydrogenated lecithin (hydrogenated egg yolk lecithin, iodine value 10 g/ 100g) 3.0〃 3 Sorbic acid 1.0〃 4 Squalane 30.0〃 5 Cetyl alcohol 5.0〃 6 Add pure water to bring the total amount to 100 parts. (2) Manufacture A skin cream of the present invention was obtained in accordance with Example 1. The resulting cream is an O/W emulsion with a fine texture, gloss (90), and high emulsion stability, and remains stable without discoloration or odor even if left in a constant temperature room at 45℃ for 6 months. Ta. When used, it came off easily, spread well, and gave a refreshing feel without any stickiness. In addition, the conductance (micromho) value for moisturizing properties was 690 immediately after, 15 after 10 minutes, and
30 minutes later it was 13.60 and 11 later. Moreover, its water resistance was 80%, and its water repellency rating was 5. Comparative Example 6 A cream obtained by carrying out the same procedure as in Example 7 except that stearic acid was used instead of hydrogenated lecithin was heterogeneous, had coarse particles, had poor emulsion stability, and could not be heated at 45°C. When left for 6 months, oil separation occurred and the gloss was 65. It is also 65% water resistant,
The water repellency rating is 3, the moisture retention is low, and the conductance (micromho) value is immediately (2 minutes later)
650, 11 after 10 minutes, 9 after 30 minutes, and 8 after 60 minutes. Comparative Example 7 Methylparaben instead of 3.0 parts of hydrogenated lecithin
The same procedure as in Example 7 was carried out except that 0.6 part was used and 2.4 parts of pure water was added. The resulting cream was heterogeneous, had coarse particles, and had poor emulsion stability.
After being left for several months, the oil separated and the gloss was 65.
In addition, the water resistance is 62, the water repellency rating is 3, and the conductance (micromo) value is 640 immediately after (2 minutes), 11 after 10 minutes, 9 after 30 minutes, and 9 after 60 minutes. It was 8. Comparative Example 8 Synthetic hectorite (trade name Laponite) was used instead of sodium bentonite.
The same procedure as in Example 7 was carried out. The resulting cream was heterogeneous, coarse grained, and had poor emulsion stability.
After being left at 45°C for 6 months, the oil separated and the gloss was 65. In addition, the water resistance is 65, the water repellency rating is 3, and the moisture retention is low, and the conductance value (micromo) is 670 immediately (after 2 minutes), 12 after 10 minutes, 12 after 30 minutes, and 10 after 60 minutes. It was 9. Comparative Example 9 Instead of hydrogenated lecithin, unhydrogenated lecithin (egg yolk lecithin, iodine value 75g/100g) was used, sodium bentonite was not used, and pure water was used.
A comparative emulsion was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1, except that 72.8 parts were used. The obtained emulsion had poor emulsion stability, water resistance of 50%, water repellency rating of 2, gloss of 50, degree of discoloration of 4, degree of odor change of 4, and conductance for moisture retention of 650 micromolar immediately after. , 11 micromho after 10 minutes, 10 micromho after 30 minutes, and 8 micromho after 60 minutes. Comparative Example 10 A comparative emulsion was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1, except that 0.5 part of sodium lauryl sulfate was used instead of 2.0 parts of hydrogenated lecithin, and 1.5 parts of pure water was added. The water resistance of the obtained emulsion was 5%,
The water repellency rating was 1, which was poor, the gloss was 85, and the emulsion stability was good. The conductance for moisture retention was 570 micromho immediately after, 12 micromho after 10 minutes, 9 micromho after 30 minutes, and 8 micromho after 60 minutes. Example 8 (Hair cream of the present invention) (1) Prescription 1 Sodium bentonite (cation exchangeable sodium ion content 120 mg/100 g) 2.0 parts 2 Hydrogenated lecithin (hydrogenated egg yolk lecithin, iodine value 1 g/100 g) 5.0 3 Squalane 35.0 4 Beeswax 3.0 parts 5 Cetyl alcohol 3.0 6 Sorbic acid 1.0 7 Pure water 51.0 (2) Production A hair cream of the present invention was obtained in accordance with Example 1. The resulting cream has fine texture, gloss (87), and O/W with high emulsion stability.
It was a type emulsion and remained stable without causing discoloration or odor even when left in a constant temperature room at 45°C for 6 months. When used, it came off well, spread well, and gave a refreshing feel without any stickiness. In addition, the conductance (micromo) value for moisturizing properties was 695 immediately after, and 15 and 30 after 10 minutes.
It was 13 minutes later and 11 minutes later. The water resistance was 85% and the water repellency rating was 5. Example 9 (Skin milk of the present invention) (1) Prescription 1 Sodium bentonite (cation exchangeable sodium ion content 120 mg/100 g) 1.5 parts 2 Hydrogenated lecithin (hydrogenated egg yolk lecithin, iodine value 10 g/100 g) 2.0 Part 3 Liquid paraffin 15.0 4 Vaseline 1.0 5 Glycerin 5.0 6 Sorbic acid 1.0 7 Pure water 74.5 (2) Production The skin milk of the present invention was obtained in accordance with Example 1. The resulting milk is an O/W emulsion with fine texture, gloss (90), and high emulsion stability, and is stable even if left in a constant temperature room at 45℃ for 6 months without causing discoloration or odor. It was hot. When used, it spread well and gave a refreshing feel without stickiness. In addition, the conductance (micromo) value for moisturizing properties was 690 immediately after, 15 minutes after 10 minutes, and 690 after 30 minutes.
13.60 minutes later it was 11. Also, water resistance is 80%,
The water repellency evaluation was 5.

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1 100mg of cation-exchangeable sodium ions
Equivalent / 100g ~ 160mg Sodium type bentonite containing equivalent / 100g and iodine value 1g /
A cream or milky lotion skin cosmetic containing 100g to 35g/100g of hydrogenated lecithin, an oily substance, and water.