JP2511819B2 - Emulsified cosmetics - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION (Field of Industrial Application) The present invention is an improvement obtained by using as a emulsifier component a specific ceramide described below and a specific sodium bentonite described below without using a rigid emulsifier. Emulsified type (for example, creamy, milky liquid, etc.) cosmetics. More specifically, it is stable and does not easily change its odor even after long-term storage, emulsion stability, usability during makeup (smoothness, elongation), and feel after application (a refreshing and moist feel, with a sticky feel. The present invention relates to an emulsified cosmetic composition having excellent moisturizing properties.

(Prior Art) Conventionally, as an essential condition for an emulsion type cosmetic such as cream and emulsion, (1) it is highly safe without irritating the skin. (2) Milk stability is good even after long-term storage, and no odor or discoloration occurs. (3) Good appearance such as texture and gloss. (4) It should have good exfoliation, extension, and feel when used (it gives a refreshing or moisturizing feel to the skin. It does not give a sticky feel). (5) To give the skin proper moisturizing properties (water retention). (6) The makeup coating film has high water resistance and water repellency, and does not easily re-emulsify or flow out even if it comes into contact with a large amount of water or sweat, and has good makeup durability.

Etc.

However, in order to satisfy these conditions, selection of an emulsifying agent and specific combination, and combination of special base materials have been carried out, but it is not easy to achieve the purpose. Emulsified cosmetics (for example, creams) using ordinary synthetic emulsifiers (for example, anionic or nonionic surfactants) as emulsifiers generally have high skin irritation. (2) Manufacturing conditions (temperature, stirring force,
The cooling rate, etc.) affects the quality of the final product, and it is difficult to always obtain a product of uniform quality. (3) State change (separation,
Easy to cause syneresis. (4) It is easy to give a sticky feeling. (5) The makeup coating film is likely to be re-emulsified by a large amount of water or sweat, or to easily run off.

There are drawbacks such as.

JP-A-57-16812 and JP-A-57-38936 disclose a base component containing synthetic bentonite (Laponite XLC), an aqueous phase component containing parabens (or amino acids), or a higher fatty acid. Disclosed is a method for producing an emulsified composition (for example, a cream) by using a complex (complex) obtained by mixing an oil phase component containing the above and stirring vigorously.

However, the emulsion composition obtained by these methods has less skin irritation, but on the other hand, emulsion stability, gloss, feel, and
Poor storage stability and water resistance (water repellency). On the other hand, JP-A-61
JP-A-260008, JP-A-61-271205 discloses an emulsion cosmetic containing ceramide, glucosylceramide and the like as a moisturizer, but ceramide and glucosylceramide have a chemical structure of those components. As can be seen, it does not act as an emulsifier because it does not have surface-active ability (emulsifying ability, surface tension reducing ability, etc.). Therefore, an emulsifier (nonionic surfactant, anionic surfactant, etc.) must be used when preparing an emulsion cosmetic containing ceramide or glucosylceramide.

(Problems to be Solved by the Invention) The present inventor has conducted diligent research in order to solve the above-mentioned problems of the prior art. As a result, the specific ceramides and the specific sodium bentonite described below form a complex in water. When formed, the oily substance is homogeneously and stably emulsified and dispersed (acts as an emulsifier) when coexisting, and has excellent storage stability, emulsion stability, usability, feel, moisturizing property, and the like. The present invention has been completed by finding that a material can be easily produced.

The object of the present invention is stable even after long-term storage, does not generate a strange odor or smell, emulsion stability, usability during makeup (exfoliation, elongation), feel after application (fresh and,
(EN) It is intended to provide an emulsified cosmetic composition having a moist feel, no sticky feeling), excellent moisturizing properties, etc., and high skin safety.

(Means for solving the problem) That is, the present invention, at least one selected from the group consisting of ceramide, glucosylceramide, galactosylceramide, and 100 mg of cation-exchangeable sodium ions.
An emulsified cosmetic composition comprising sodium bentonite (equivalent / 100 g to 160 mg equivalent / 100 g), an oily substance, and water.

Ceramide, glucosylceramide, and galactosylceramide used in the present invention are compounds that are present in trace amounts in the epidermis of mammals such as humans, pigs, cows, horses, and sheep (biochemistry, and, physiology, ob, the, skin. ,
Pp.363-381, Biochemistry and physiology of th
e Skin, Oxford University Press, Inc. 1983 New York,
Journal, Ob, Lipid, Research Vol. 24, 1983
Etc.), and can be obtained from these animal epidermis by an ordinary extraction method. In the present invention, JP-A-61-1
271205 bulletin and biochemistry experiment manual (lipid biochemistry, biochemistry experiment course, Volume 3, pages 20-21, 1974, edited by the Japanese Biochemical Society,
Ceramide, glucosylceramide, and galactosylceramide obtained by the production method described in Tokyo Kagaku Dojin) can be used. Here, the ceramide is a mixture of N-acyl sphingosine, N- (α-hydroxyacyl) -phytosphingosine, N-acyl phytosphingosine and the like. Glucosylceramide is mainly N
-Acyl glucosyl sphingosine, N- (α-hydroxyacyl) -glucosyl phytosphingosine, N-
(Α-hydroxyacyl) -glucosylsphingosine,
N-acyl glucosyl phytosphine 1- (3'-O-
Acyl) glucosyl and the like. Galactosylceramide is mainly a mixture of N-acylgalactosylsphingosine, N- (α-hydroxyacyl) -galactosylphytosphingosine, N- (α-hydroxyacyl) -galactosylsphingosine and the like.

The blending amount of at least one selected from the group consisting of ceramide, glucosylceramide, and galactosylceramide is 0.1 to 5% by weight (hereinafter the same) based on the total weight of prescription components of the cosmetic (weight of final composition). .
If the amount is less than 0.1% by weight, the emulsifiability is not sufficient, and if the amount exceeds 5% by weight, the product may have an offensive odor or an offensive odor.

The sodium bentonite used in the present invention is sodium montmorillonite, which is a kind of natural colloidal hydrous aluminum silicate, and has high purity, cation exchange ability, hydration ability and swelling ability. The preferred sodium bentonite has a cation exchangeable sodium ion content of 100 mg equivalent / 100 g to 160 mg equivalent / 100 g (more preferably 115 mg equivalent / 100 g to 140 mg equivalent / 100 g), and its 4% by weight aqueous dispersion Many have viscosities in the range of 150 to 180 centipoise.

Such high-purity sodium montmorillonite is obtained from a special vein or by a special physical or chemical treatment.

The content of sodium bentonite in the present invention is 0.1 to 5 relative to the total weight of the prescription components of the cosmetic.
%, Preferably 0.5 to 4.0% by weight. 0.1% by weight
If it is less than 5, the emulsion stability and stability over time tend to be low, and if it is more than 5% by weight, the elongation of the emulsion and the feel during use tend to be poor.

The oily substance used in the present invention is an oily substance for cosmetics, and examples thereof include fats and oils, waxes, hydrocarbons, ester oils, higher alcohols and higher fatty acids.

Examples of fats and oils include castor oil, olive oil, avocado oil, palm oil, cocoa oil and the like, waxes such as hollow, lanolin, beeswax, paraffin wax, carnauba wax and candelilla wax, and hydrocarbons such as Petrolatum, liquid paraffin,
Examples of ester oils such as ceresin, microcrystalline wax, squalane, etc. include stearic acid butyl ester, myristic acid octyldodecyl ester, myristic acid isopropyl ester, lanolin fatty acid isopropyl ester, lanolinic acid hexyl ester, oleic acid oleyl ester, adipic acid diisopropyl ester. Examples of higher alcohols such as sebacic acid diisopropyl ester include stearyl alcohol and oleic alcohol, but are not limited thereto. The oily substances are used alone or in combination of two or more, and the compounding amount thereof is 5 to 60% by weight, preferably 15 to 50% by weight. The selection and use of the oily substance differ depending on the type of the cosmetic, and are not particularly limited.

The amount of water used is usually 30 to 95% by weight, preferably 50 to 90%.
% By weight. Further, if desired, a small amount of cosmetic active ingredients, fragrances, preservatives, coloring agents and the like can be added.

In order to obtain the emulsified cosmetic of the present invention, a usual emulsification method can be applied. For example, the oil phase and the water phase are each 50-90 ℃
It is easily obtained by a method such as heating, melting and melting, mixing, and dispersing with a homogenizer. In this case, it is desirable to add bentonite to the water phase and ceramides to the oil phase.

The emulsified cosmetic composition of the present invention has good emulsion stability and storage stability, moisturizing properties after application, feel (moisturizing feel, refreshing feel, no stickiness), usability (smoothness, elongation).
It also has various properties such as softening and smoothing hair. Therefore, it is extremely useful as a skin cosmetic (for example, skin cream, skin milk, makeup base, sunscreen, etc.), a hair cosmetic (for example, hair cream, hair treatment, etc.).

 Examples of the present invention will be described below.

In the examples,% means% by weight, and parts means parts by weight. In addition, feel, moisture retention, storage stability, (emulsion stability)
Stability), usability (stretching, elongation), and other test methods are as follows.

(1) Usability (stretchability, stretchability) Practical tests were conducted by 20 panelists, and the number of respondents who answered that they had good stretchability during use and the number of persons who responded that they had good stretchability (spreadability) were shown.

(2) Moisture retention after makeup (application) Impedance meter (IBS-354 type) made by IBS
It measured using. In addition, the measurement is in a constant temperature room at 20 ℃,
After applying a fixed amount (0.2 g / (4 cm ² )) of sample to the upper arm of an adult male, conductance (unit: micro mho) over time
Was measured. It is generally said that the larger the conductance, the smaller the electric resistance of the skin and the better the moisturizing property of the skin surface.

(3) Feeling after application The practical test was conducted by 20 panelists, and the number of people who answered that they gave a refreshing feeling as a feeling after applying it to the skin, the number of people who answered that they gave a moist feeling,
The number of people who answered that they gave a sticky feeling was shown.

(4) Storage stability The storage stability was evaluated by examining the change in odor (odor) after leaving the sample in a constant temperature bath at 45 ° C for 3 months and the occurrence of offensive odor.

(5) Emulsion stability Put the sample in a constant temperature bath at 45 ° C and observe the emulsified state and appearance after standing for 4 months. If no abnormalities are observed (emulsion state is uniform and uniform emulsion is formed. Case) was judged as good, and if abnormalities were observed (oil separated, particles became coarse, etc.), it was judged as bad.

Example 1 (Emulsion) 1.0 part of galactosylceramide and 25 parts of squalane are about 80 parts.
Dissolve uniformly at 0 ° C. (Solution 1). After dissolving 0.2 parts of sorbic acid in 70.8 parts of pure water at about 80 ° C, sodium bentonite (cation exchangeable sodium ion content 120 mg / 10
0 g) Disperse 3 parts uniformly. Next, this dispersion liquid is added with stirring with a homomixer to emulsify it.
After emulsification, the mixture was dispersed for 15 minutes with a homomixer (7500 rpm) while keeping the temperature at 80 ° C, and then cooled to 30 ° C to obtain the emulsion of the present invention.

As a result of conducting various tests on this emulsion as described above, the emulsion stability was good. The moisturizing property after application is 692 micro mho immediately after the conductance (2 minutes later) and 15 minutes after 10 minutes.
Micromho, after 30 minutes at 13 micromhos, was good. Also, 20 out of 20 people answered that it was good to use.
The number of people who answered that the growth was good was 19 out of 20, and the usability was extremely good. Regarding the feel after application, 19 out of 20 answered that it gave a refreshing feeling, 20 out of 20 answered that it gave a moist feeling, and 0 out of 20 answered that it felt sticky. It was and was very good. The storage stability was extremely good with no odor or offensive odor.

Example 2 (Emulsion) The same procedure as in Example 1 was carried out except that glucosylceramide was used instead of galactosylceramide. The emulsion stability and storage stability of the obtained emulsion of the present invention are shown in Example 1.
It was as good as the milky lotion. Moisture retention is 690 micro mhos immediately after conductance, 15 micro mhos after 10 minutes, 3
After 0 minutes it was extremely good at 13 micro mhos. In addition, 19 out of 20 people who get good at application, 18 out of 20 people who grow well,
18 out of 20 feeling after application, 19 out of 20 feeling moist
There were 0 out of 20 people with a greasy feeling, and the usability and the feel after application were extremely good.

Example 3 (Emulsion) The same procedure as in Example 1 was carried out except that ceramide was used instead of galactosylceramide. The emulsion and storage stability of the obtained emulsion of the present invention were extremely good as in the emulsion of Example 1. Moisture retention immediately after conductance
680 micromhos, 10 minutes later 15 micromhos, 30 minutes later 1
It was extremely good at 3 micro mhos. It is also used by 19 out of 20 people who feel good when applied, 18 out of 20 people who grow well, 18 out of 20 people after application, 19 out of 20 people who feel moist, and 0 out of 20 people who feel sticky The properties and the feel after application were also very good.

As is clear from the results of Examples 1 to 3, ceramide, glucosyl ceramide or galactosyl ceramide, and the specific sodium-type bentonite, if used in combination, the oily substance is homogeneous and stable without using an emulsifier. It is possible to easily produce an emulsified cosmetic composition which can be emulsified, and which is excellent in emulsion stability, storage stability, moisturizing property after application, feel and usability.

Comparative Example 1 (when ceramides are not used in combination) The same procedure as in Example 1 was carried out except that galactosylceramide was not added and 1.0 part of pure water was added. The obtained comparative emulsion was separated into two layers after 2 weeks and the emulsion stability was extremely poor, and it was impractical. As described above, when the ceramides are not used together (containing sodium bentonite alone), the oily substance cannot be stably emulsified.

Comparative Example 2 (when sodium-type bentonite is not used together) Sodium-type bentonite was not blended and pure water was added to 3
The procedure of Example 1 was repeated except that some parts were added, but the oily substance was not substantially emulsified. Thus, galactosylceramide cannot emulsify oily substances.

Comparative Example 3 (Emulsion) The same procedure as in Example 1 was carried out except that phenylalanine was used instead of galactosylceramide. The obtained comparative emulsion had poor emulsification stability, and when it was stored at 45 ° C. for 4 months, it changed its odor and generated an offensive odor. The number of people who answered that they gave a moist feeling after application was 11 out of 20, and the feeling after application was not sufficiently satisfactory.

Example 4 (Emulsion) As sodium type bentonite, the same procedure as in Example 1 was carried out except that sodium type bentonite having a cation-exchangeable sodium ion content of 100 mg equivalent / 100 g was used. The emulsion of the obtained emulsion of the present invention has good emulsion stability and storage stability, and the breakage during application is 19 out of 20 and the elongation is 18 out of 20.
People, the refreshing feeling after application is 17 out of 20, the moist feeling is 20
19 out of 20 people and 0 out of 20 people felt sticky. The moisturizing properties after application were good, with conductance of 650 μmho immediately, 11 μm after 10 minutes, and 10 μm after 30 minutes.

Example 5 (Emulsion) As sodium type bentonite, the same procedure as in Example 1 was carried out except that sodium type bentonite having a cation exchangeable sodium ion content of 165 mg equivalent / 100 g was used. The emulsion stability of the obtained emulsion of the present invention, the storage stability is good, the breakage at the time of application is 16 out of 20 and the elongation is 17 out of 20.
People, refreshing feeling after application 18 out of 20 people, moist feeling 20
16 out of 20 and 20 out of 20 were sticky. The moisturizing property after application was good immediately after the conductance, 685 micro mhos, 13 micro mhos after 10 minutes, and 13 micro mhos after 30 minutes.

Comparative Example 4 (Emulsion) The same procedure as in Example 1 was carried out except that sodium bentonite having a cation-exchangeable sodium ion content of 90 mg equivalent / 100 g was used as the sodium bentonite. The emulsion for comparison thus obtained had poor emulsification stability and was poor in release during application.

Comparative Example 5 (Emulsion) The same procedure as in Example 1 was carried out except that sodium bentonite having a cation-exchangeable sodium ion content of 170 mg equivalent / 100 g was used as the sodium bentonite. The emulsion stability of the obtained comparative emulsion was poor.

Comparative Example 6 (Emulsion) The procedure of Example 1 was repeated, except that synthetic hectorite (trade name: Laponite) was used instead of the sodium bentonite. The emulsion stability of the obtained comparative emulsion was poor.

Example 6 (skin cream) 5 parts of glycerin, 0.2 part of sorbic acid and 64.8 parts of pure water were mixed and uniformly dissolved at about 80 ° C., and sodium bentonite (cation exchangeable sodium ion content was contained in this solution). 1.30 mg equivalent / 100 g) is evenly dispersed in 3 parts. While stirring this dispersion with a homomixer, a homogeneous melt mixture consisting of 2 parts of glucosylceramide, 20 parts of liquid paraffin, 3 parts of cetyl alcohol, and 3 parts of cetyl palmitate is added and emulsified. After emulsification, the mixture was uniformly dispersed for 15 minutes with a homomixer while maintaining the temperature at 80 ° C, and then cooled to 30 ° C to obtain a skin cream of the present invention. This skin cream has good emulsification stability and storage stability, with a wetness of 18 out of 20, a growth of 19 out of 20, a refreshing feeling after application of 18 out of 20 and a moist feeling of 20 out of 20. Medium 19 people, sticky feeling
0 out of 20 were extremely good. The moisturizing property after application is 69 immediately after the conductance (micro mho).
It was very good at 0, 10 minutes later and 15 and 30 minutes later and 13.

Example 7 (skin cream) The same procedure as in Example 6 was carried out except that galactosylceramide was used instead of glucosylceramide. The emulsion stability of the obtained skin cream of the present invention, the storage stability is good, the peeling at the time of application is 19 out of 20, the growth is 19 out of 20,
Moisture after application is 20 out of 20 and refreshing is out of 20
19 people and 0 out of 20 people felt sticky, and all were extremely good. The moisturizing property after application is 692 immediately after conductance (micro mho), 16 after 10 minutes, and 14 after 30 minutes,
Very good.

Comparative Example 7 (Skin Cream) The same procedure as in Example 7 was performed except that glucosylceramide was not added and 2 parts of pure water was added. The obtained comparative skin cream caused separation after 3 weeks, had extremely poor emulsion stability, and was impractical.
As described above, when ceramides are not used (sodium bentonite alone), the oily substance cannot be stably emulsified.

Comparative Example 8 (Skin Cream) Pure water was added without adding sodium bentonite.
The same procedure as in Example 7 was carried out except that a part was added, but the oily substance was not substantially emulsified. Thus, glucosylceramide cannot emulsify oily substances.

Example 8 (makeup base) 3 parts of galactosylceramide, 10 parts of liquid paraffin and 2 parts of cetyl alcohol are mixed and uniformly melted at 80 ° C. (uniform melt mixture). On the other hand, 0.2 part of sorbic acid was replaced with pure water 74.
After dissolving in 8 parts, sodium bentonite (cation exchangeable sodium ion content 110m
g equivalent / 100g) 2 parts and 8 parts of skin color pigment are uniformly dispersed. The homogenized mixture was added to this dispersion with stirring with a homomixer to emulsify, and after emulsification, stirring was continued for 15 minutes to uniformly disperse and cool to 30 ° C. to make up the makeup of the present invention. Got the base. This makeup base has good emulsion stability and storage stability, and has an elongation of 20 when applied.
19 people, moist feeling after application 19 out of 20 people, sticky feeling
0 out of 20 were excellent.

Example 9 (makeup base) The same procedure as in Example 7 was carried out except that glucosylceramide was used instead of galactosylceramide. The emulsification stability and storage stability of the obtained makeup base of the present invention are good, and the elongation at the time of application is 19 out of 20, the moist feeling after application is 18 out of 20, and the stickiness is out of 20. All were extremely good with 0 people.

Example 10 (Hair Milk) 2 parts of galactosylceramide, 2 parts of glucosylceramide and 15 parts of octyldodecyl myristate are uniformly melted at about 80 ° C. (uniform melt mixture). After melting 0.2 parts of sorbic acid in 75.8 parts of pure water at about 80 ° C, sodium bentonite (cation exchangeable sodium ion content 140 mg
2 parts by weight (equivalent / 100 g) are uniformly dispersed, and this dispersion is then emulsified by adding the above homogeneous melt mixture with stirring with a homomixer. After emulsification, continue stirring while maintaining at 80 ℃,
Furthermore, it was uniformly dispersed and cooled to 30 ° C. to obtain the hair milk of the present invention. This hair milk has good emulsification stability and storage stability.
19 of them had good moisturizing properties after application and were able to make their hair soft and smooth.

Example 11 Example 11 was repeated except that 4 parts of ceramide was used instead of 2 parts of galactosylceramide and 2 parts of glucosylceramide. The obtained hair milk of the present invention had good emulsification stability and storage stability, and also had good peelability during application, elongation and moisturizing properties after application, which were as good as those of the hair milk of Example 10. .

(Effects of the Invention) As described above, the present invention does not use a synthetic emulsifier by combining at least one selected from the group consisting of ceramide, glucosylceramide, and galactosylceramide with the specific sodium bentonite. Oily substance can be homogeneously and stably emulsified, and moreover emulsification stability, storage stability, usability (makeup and spread) at the time of makeup, feel after application (fresh, moist feeling, It is possible to easily produce an emulsified cosmetic having excellent moisturizing properties (no sticky feeling), and the specificity of its action and effect is remarkable.

Claims (3)

(57) [Claims] 1. At least one selected from the group consisting of ceramide, glucosylceramide, and galactosylceramide, and 100 mg equivalent / 10 of a cation-exchangeable sodium ion.
An emulsified cosmetic composition containing 0 g to 160 mg equivalent / 100 g of sodium bentonite, an oily substance, and water. 2. At least one selected from the group consisting of ceramide, glucosylceramide, and galactosylceramide is added in an amount of 0.1 to 5% by weight (% by weight is based on the weight of the final composition, the same applies hereinafter). The emulsion cosmetic according to item (1). 3. The emulsion cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein sodium bentonite is added in an amount of 0.1 to 5% by weight.