JPS60199946A - Silky polyester spun fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

(57) [Summary] This bulletin contains application data before electronic filing, so abstract data is not recorded.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION <Industrial Application Field> The present invention relates to a silky polyester spun fabric.

<Relationship with Prior Art> Conventionally, silky polyester spun fabrics have been obtained by weaving only low-shrinkage stable spun yarns and then subjecting them to weight reduction processing. However, the resulting fabric
Although it was soft and warm, it was flat, lacked a sense of fullness, and had a vapor-like feel with poor drape. Also,
A silky fabric was also obtained by reducing the weight of a fabric made of a blended yarn of low-shrinkage fibers and high-shrinkage fibers, but the low-shrinkage fibers and high-shrinkage fibers were mixed in groups, resulting in uneven blending. Particularly in the yarn axis direction, the blending unevenness was severe. Therefore, it was too bulky and was unsuitable for obtaining the silk-spun-like fabric that is the object of the present invention.

<Objective of the Invention> The object of the present invention is to obtain a silky polyester spun fabric similar to a silk spun fabric, which is soft and warm, has appropriate tension, waist and fullness, and has good drapability.

<Configuration of the Invention> In the present invention, a spun yarn made of cut fibers of tow mixed with polyester differential shrinkage yarn having a difference in hot water shrinkage rate of 6 to 15% is arranged in the warp and/or weft, This is a silky polyester spun fabric whose highly shrinkable fibers are shrunk during post-processing. The high shrinkage yarn that forms the tow in which polyester differentially shrinkable yarn is blended has a hot water shrinkage rate (S) IW) of 16% to 20%, and the low shrinkage yarn has a hot water shrinkage rate (SaW) of 16% to 20%. is 5-10%
The difference in hot water shrinkage rate (△5) IW) is suitable.
is required to be 6 to 15%. More preferably, ΔSHW is 9 to 12%. ΔSHW is 6%
If the IW is less than 15%, the feeling of fullness will be insufficient, and if the IW exceeds 15%, the feeling will be bulky, which is not good.

The denier of the polyester yarn is preferably 0.3 to 2.5 tenier, more preferably 0.7 to 1.5 denier. The yarn may have either an irregular cross section or a round cross section, but yarns with an irregular cross section are preferred from the viewpoint of texture. The mixed fiber tow may be formed by any method such as spinning fiber blending, drawing blending fiber, tow blending fiber, etc., but air blending fibers such as interlacer fibers are not preferable because they are difficult to draft, resulting in poor spinnability. Also, blending with mixed cotton is not preferable. The total denier of the tow mixed with different shrinkage yarns is 20.000 denier to 2,000.000 denier.
Denier is preferred, more preferably 50,000 denier to 1.00 G,000 denier. The blending ratio of high shrinkage yarn and low shrinkage yarn is 30 nia 0 to 70:
30 is preferable, more preferably 40:60 to 6o:4
It is 0. Fibers are formed by cutting the differentially shrinkable mixed fiber tow into 30 m to 140 vans. In this case, in order to make the difference in shrinkage uniform, the longer length is preferable, and more preferably 51 m to 110+ m. In this case, if the length of the tow is 50m or less, it will be cut to equal length, and the length of the tow will be 50m or less.
If the size is larger than a parrot, it is preferable to use a burr cut. The cut tow is spun to form a spun yarn by a conventional spinning method such as ordinary cotton spinning, staple spinning, or worsted spinning, or by an innovative spinning method.

The twist coefficient of the spun yarn is preferably 3.0 to 4.5.

The twist coefficient is expressed as T/V15- (T: number of twists/inch, Ne: English cotton count). The count of the spun yarn is preferably 20'S/I to 200'S/I. The spun yarn is arranged in the warp and/or weft and woven to form a gray fabric. When designing textiles, take into account dimensional changes due to hot water shrinkage of yarn during relaxation heat treatment, and adjust textile density (fabric width x length).
It is preferable to design The finished density is 1 of the green density.
The increase will be 0-15%. The gray fabric is subjected to batch-type relaxing processing, that is, gray fabric burning, desizing, scouring, relaxing, presetting, dyeing, and finishing to give the fabric a fullness and texture. For desizing and scouring relaxing, heat treatment and kneading effects are applied using a rotary washer, liquid jet dyeing machine, etc., or dry heat treatment is performed using a long loop dryer or the like using Tensilon, which is free in the warp and weft directions. To make the fabric silkier,
If necessary, after presetting, caustic treatment is performed, and 5
~30% weight loss processing may be performed.

<Effects of the Invention> The silky polyester spun fabric of the present invention has a spun yarn made of tow cut fibers mixed with different shrinkage yarns in the warp and/or weft. It blends uniformly in the yarn axis direction and yarn cross-sectional direction without creating uneven blending, and as a result, the voids between the fibers become uniform, giving a more uniform fullness.
The fabric has just the right amount of tension, has excellent drapability, and has the silky warmth and soft touch of spun silk.

<Examples> The present invention will be described in detail below, but the examples do not limit the present invention.

Example 1 A polyester bright irregular cross section yarn of 1.25 denier (SHW 16%) was used as a high shrinkage yarn, and a polyester bright irregular cross section yarn of 1.25 denier (SHW 6%) was used as a low shrinkage yarn.
Tow (132,900 denier) drawn and blended at a ratio of 51111111 was cut into 60
'S/I spun yarn was obtained. The spun yarns were arranged in the warp and weft to weave a plain woven fabric with a warp density of 130 threads/inch and a weft density of 80 threads/inch. Thereafter, the gray fabric was subjected to relaxation heat treatment at 110°C for 60 minutes at 90°C using a four-tally washer.
After presetting, I applied a 60-minute weight reduction process with 4% OWF of caustic soda and dyed it, and it looked like Fuji Silk.
A dress fabric with a soft, fluffy feel and excellent drapability was obtained.

Example 2 'Polyester bright irregular cross-section yarn as high shrinkage yarn1. θ denier (8HW 18%), drawn and mixed tow (mixed fiber ratio 50% = 50%) (79,740 denier) using polyester bright irregular cross section yarn 0.7 denier (SHW 7%) as a low shrinkage yarn. 110m
The yarn was pari-cut to obtain a spun yarn of 80'S/I using a coarse wool spinning machine. The spun yarn is arranged in the warp and weft, and the warp density is 1.
A plain woven gray fabric with a weft density of 83 threads/inch and a weft density of 85 threads/inch was woven.

After that, the gray fabric was subjected to a relaxation heat treatment at 98℃ for 3 minutes in a continuous relaxer, and then a dry heat relaxation treatment at 180℃ in a long loop dryer to give it a dyed finish. A new fabric with a good appearance, uniform fluffiness, softness, and excellent drapability was obtained. In addition, the high shrinkage fibers and low shrinkage fibers were uniformly mixed in the yarn axis direction and the yarn cross-sectional direction.

Comparative example High shrinkage polyester stable brite irregular cross section 1.0
Denier (SHW18%) 38 gourd cut and low shrinkage polyester staple bright irregular cross section 0°7 denier (S
HW7%) 38-m + cut and former: latter is 50%
: Blended with a cotton blending machine so that it is 50%, 80'S/I
A spun yarn was obtained. A plain woven fabric was woven from the spun yarn at a warp density of 183 threads/inch and a weft thread density of 85 threads/inch.

After that, the gray fabric was subjected to relaxation heat treatment (98°C) using a continuous relaxer.
After dry heat relaxation treatment at 180°C with a long loop dryer for 3 minutes), the fabric was dyed and finished, but the fabric had some irritation, which was thought to be caused by shrinkage spots, and the feeling of swelling was uneven. It was sponge-like and didn't drape well. Furthermore, the blending of the high shrinkage staple and the low shrinkage staple was uneven, resulting in severe uneven blending.

The appearance, fullness, drapable fiber mixture, and fiber fluctuation rate of the fabrics of Example 2 and Comparative Example are compared and shown in Table 1. Procedural Amendment L - Display of 3 Patent Fraud Applications in 1982 No. 155835 2 Name of the invention Silky merry ester spun fabric & Relationship to the case of the person making the amendment Patent applicant 2-2-8 Dojimahama, Kita-ku, Osaka On page 7, line 1 of the specification, "90°C" was changed to "190°C" ” he corrected.

that's all

Claims (2)

[Claims] (1) Spun yarn made of cut fibers of tow mixed with polyester differential shrinkage yarn with a hot water shrinkage rate difference of 6 to 15% is arranged in the warp and /l or weft, and is highly A silky polyester spun fabric characterized by shrinkage 71 Iper. (2) The silky polyester spun fabric according to claim 1, which has been subjected to caustic treatment to reduce the weight by 5 to 30%.