JPH06158536A - Woven and knit fabric of conjugate spun yarn and its production - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To obtain woven and knit fabric having excellent drape properties and bulkiness, comprising spun yarn of two layer structure of sheath-core structure, having arranged specific polyester staple fiber. CONSTITUTION:High-shrinkage polyester staple fiber having 6-30% shrinkage percentage at 160 deg.C dry heat is used as a core component and polyester staple fiber having >=3% self extension ratio at 160 deg.C dry heat as a sheath component in the weight ratio of 20-45:80-55 to prepare spun yarn of sheath-core type two layer structure having 2.5-5.0 number of twist. Then the spun yarn is sized under a temperature condition at <=60 deg.C sizing temperature and <=100 deg.C dry heat temperature and the yarn is used as warp and weft. When the gray fabric is dyed, the yarn is subjected to 5-35% weight loss processing (with caustic soda) and bulkiness formation treatment to give woven and knit fabric of conjugate yarn having silky tone, excellent drape properties and bulkiness.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a so-called wild silk-like composite spun yarn woven or knitted fabric having excellent drapeability and bulkiness and a method for producing the same.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, various yarns have been used as yarns for bulky woven or knitted fabrics. For example, a spun yarn in which staple fibers having different shrinkage ratios are uniformly mixed, a bulky spun yarn using a self-expanding fiber in the core part and a highly-shrinkable fiber in the sheath part, and further, a self-expanding fiber in the core part, Bulky spun yarn having a mixture of high shrinkage fibers and low shrinkage fibers in the sheath portion (Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 56-56
-123419). The bulky woven or knitted fabric is obtained by subjecting these yarns to bulky before and after the woven or knitted fabric.

[0003]

However, when a spun yarn prepared by uniformly mixing the above-mentioned staple fibers having different shrinkage ratios is used, sufficient bulkiness is not exhibited due to the uniform mixing, and the drapability is also improved. It was poor. When a bulky spun yarn using a self-expanding fiber in the core and a high-shrinking fiber in the sheath is used, the highly-shrinkable fiber in the sheath shrinks after the heat treatment, so that the spontaneous expansion of the core On the other hand, the self-stretching fibers move strongly toward the sheath, which makes them bulky, and because they are integral with the core-sheath, they also have poor drapeability. further,
When a mixture of high-shrinkable fiber and low-shrinkable fiber is used for the sheath portion, it has an effect of preventing excessive concentration of the high-shrinkable fiber on the core portion, but it is also poor in bulkiness. .

It is an object of the present invention to solve the drawbacks of the conventional bulky yarns, to provide a woven or knitted fabric which has excellent bulkiness and drape, and which has no fluffy feeling, and a method for producing the same.

[0005]

The present invention takes the following means in order to solve the above problems. That is, the present invention is a woven or knitted product made of a spun yarn having a two-layer structure having a core-sheath structure, and the core of the two-layer structure spun yarn is a highly shrinkable polyester having a shrinkage ratio of 6 to 30% at a dry heat of 160 ° C. The sheath consists of staple, the sheath consists of polyester staple having a self-expansion rate of 3% or more at a dry heat of 160 ° C., the weight ratio of the core sheath is in the range of 20 to 45:80 to 55, and the twist coefficient is 2. A composite spun yarn woven or knitted fabric characterized by being in a range of 5 to 5.0 and having a reduced weight and bulkiness.

Further, according to the present invention, the sizing liquid temperature of the sizing box is set to 6 when sizing after warping the spun yarn having the two-layer structure.
This is a method for producing a composite spun yarn fabric, which comprises sizing under a temperature condition of 0 ° C. or less and a cylinder drying temperature of 100 ° C. or less, and then weaving.

Furthermore, the present invention is a method for producing a composite spun yarn woven fabric, which comprises subjecting the above-mentioned woven fabric to a weight reduction of 5 to 35% and a bulking process.

The present invention will be described in detail below. The woven or knitted fabric of the present invention comprises a spun yarn having a two-layer structure, and the core of the spun yarn having a two-layer structure comprises a highly shrinkable polyester staple having a shrinkage ratio of 6 to 30% at a dry heat of 160 ° C. The reason why the high shrinkage polyester staple is selected is that bulkiness is obtained by removing bulky, and when it is less than 6%, the bulky expression after dyeing of the woven or knitted fabric is insufficient. On the other hand, if it exceeds 30%, the surface appearance of the fabric tends to have a lot of fuzz, and it becomes rough, resulting in a fluffy feeling, which is not preferable.

The sheath of the two-layer spun yarn has a dry heat of 160 ° C.
Of polyester staple having a self-expansion rate of 3% or more. If it is less than 3%, the fabric after the dyeing process will have a lack of softness in terms of texture and will have little bulge. The two-layer structure spun yarn constituting the woven or knitted fabric according to the present invention has a high shrinkage polyester staple (preferably 0.7 to 2 denier) in the core and a self-extensible polyester staple (preferably 0.5 to 1. Since the cross-sectional area of the core polyester staple after contraction becomes large after the bulky is taken out due to the arrangement of 2 denier), the sheath polyester staple self-expands without tightening the core component. The bulkiness and drapability are remarkably exhibited.

The weight ratio of the core-sheath is 20 to 45:80.
Must be in the range of ~ 55. If the core is less than 20% by weight, it is difficult to obtain bulkiness, which is not preferable.
If it exceeds 45% by weight, although the bulkiness is obtained, the drape property becomes poor, which is not preferable.

The staple may be cut to a uniform length or a burr cut, and the average fiber length is 38 to 40.
72 mm is preferred. Further, the twist coefficient is in the range of 2.5 to 5.0 in inches. If it is less than 2.5, a lot of fluff is generated and a fluffy feeling after dyeing is increased, resulting in a fabric having poor drapeability. On the other hand, if it exceeds 5.0, binding force due to twisting may result in deterioration of bulky expression, which is not preferable. The twist coefficient K is calculated by T / Ne ^1/2 = K. However, T is the number of twists (t / inch), and Ne is English cotton count.

In the knitted woven fabric, a two-layer structure spun yarn is used for the warp yarn, the weft yarn or both, and may be used for 100% or a part of the knitted fabric, but it is preferable to use both the warp yarn, the weft yarn and the knitted fabric. It is preferable to use 100%.

Next, the manufacturing method of the present invention will be described. When warping the two-layer structure spun yarn described above and sizing,
Adhesion is performed under the temperature conditions of a sizing liquid temperature of the sizing box of 60 ° C. or lower and a cylinder drying temperature of 100 ° C. or lower. Exceeding such a temperature condition is not preferable because the self-expanding polyester staple is self-expanded before being formed into a woven fabric to impair the drape property when formed into a woven fabric.

Further, when dyeing the woven fabric woven as described above, a reduction process of 5 to 35% and a bulking process are performed. If the weight loss ratio (relative to the woven fabric) is less than 5%, the texture is too soft, and fluffing occurs, resulting in a lack of drapeability, which is not preferable.

[0015]

【Example】

Example 1 Polyester staple (1.2 denier, 38 mm, shrinkage 12% at 160 ° C. dry heat) was used as a 30 wt% core, and self-expanding polyester staple (0.75 denier, 38 mm, dry heat 160 ° C.) was used. A core-sheath type two-layer structure spun yarn 40'S having a twist number Z of 19.6 t / inch was produced by using 70% by weight of a self-stretching rate of 7%) as a sheath. Then, this yarn is used for warp and weft, and the sizing temperature is 56 ° C and the drying temperature is 98 ° C.
The swatch was sewn with, and a 2/2 twill was woven at a greed density of 110 / inch × 90 / inch. Then, the greige was subjected to desizing and scouring with a jet dyeing machine, after heat setting, weight reduction processing with a caustic soda (25% reduction rate) was performed, and dyeing and finishing were performed with the jet dyeing machine. The obtained woven fabric has a sufficient bulkiness because in the two-layer structure spun yarn, the highly shrinkable polyester staple of the core shrinks to increase the bulkiness, and the self-expanding polyester staple of the sheath does not shrink and self-expands without impairing the bulkiness of the core. A woven fabric was obtained, which was not hard and was excellent in drape, and a silk-noil-like woven fabric was obtained in spite of 100% polyester.

[0016]

The composite spun yarn woven or knitted fabric of the present invention has a silk noil tone and is rich in drape and bulkiness, and the production method has the effect of reliably producing a woven or knitted fabric.

─────────────────────────────────────────────────── ─── Continuation of the front page (51) Int.Cl. ⁵ Identification code Office reference number FI technical display location D03D 15/00 D 7199-3B D06B 3/04

Claims (3)

[Claims] 1. A woven or knitted fabric made of spun yarn having a two-layer structure having a core-sheath structure, wherein the core of the two-layer spun yarn has a high shrinkage polyester staple having a shrinkage ratio of 6 to 30% at a dry heat of 160 ° C. The sheath consists of polyester staple having a self-expansion rate of 3% or more at a dry heat of 160 ° C., the core-sheath weight ratio is in the range of 20 to 45:80 to 55, and the twist coefficient is 2.5. A composite spun yarn woven or knitted fabric having a weight loss and bulkiness in the range of 5.0 to 5.0. 2. The sizing liquid temperature of the sizing box is set to 60 when sizing the spun yarn having the two-layer structure according to claim 1 after warping.
A method for producing a composite spun yarn woven fabric, which comprises sizing under a temperature condition of ℃ or less and a cylinder drying temperature of 100 ℃ or less, and then weaving. 3. A method for producing a composite spun yarn woven fabric, which comprises subjecting the woven fabric according to claim 2 to a weight reduction of 5 to 35% and a bulking process when dyeing.