JPH02300338A - Conjugate multi-filament - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To obtain the subject new, round, soft, flexible and voluminous yarn having elegant dry touch, stiffness, etc., by intertwisting two kinds of multi- filament yarns respectively having specified physical properties in a specified ratio and at a specified degree of slip. CONSTITUTION:(A) A multi-filament yarn composed of plural filaments having >=1 denier of difference of respective single fiber fineness and <=3 average single fiber denier and having >=0% shrinkage in an average hot water (100 deg.C) (average boiling off shrinkage) and <=0% shrinkage under average dry heat (160 deg.C) (average dry heat shrinkage) and (B) a multi-filament yarn having >=4g/ denier breaking strength and >=0% boiling off shrinkage are intertwisted at 20-100 time/m degree of slip so that the respective contents of the yarns (A) and (B) in the resultant conjugate multi-filament yarn may be 10-80% and 90-20% in term of denier ratio and so that the difference between the dry heat shrinkage of the yarn (B) and the average dry heat shrinkage of the yarn (A) may be >=5%. Thereby the objective yarn is obtained.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention (Field of Application for Industry 1) The present invention is a micro-powder touch, a fashionable product that is soft and flexible, has fullness, and has appropriate elasticity, waist, and drapability. This invention relates to a composite multifilament for high-grade knitted fabrics.

(Prior Art) Polyester multifilaments have been used for various purposes such as clothing and other materials by taking advantage of their excellent properties. Silk-like texture is one of the targets for clothing applications, and various companies are investigating it, and in some fields, it has been found that silk-like texture has surpassed that of silk.

For example, composite yarns consisting of a plurality of multifilaments with different heat shrinkage properties exhibit excellent properties and textures such as fullness, bulk, and warm feel, and are widely used. If all of the multifilaments that make up the yarn shrink due to heat, due to the constraining force of the fabric structure, the difference in shrinkage rate of the threads cannot be maintained sufficiently, and the fabric becomes stiff due to the shrinkage of the threads. For this reason, countermeasures have been taken, such as reducing the number 11 to allow for shrinkage, and increasing the alkali μ reduction rate to ensure a good texture. However, filaments with a high thermal shrinkage rate generally harden when heat treated, and it has not been possible to obtain a filament that is fully satisfactory in terms of texture. On the other hand, mixed yarns of polyester filaments that expand and shrink when heat treated are also known; for example, Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 55-62240,
-112537 Publication, Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 6O-28515S
There are public notices, etc. 1) Although these products had a much softer and more flexible texture than the shrink yarns mentioned above, they also had a slimy feel due to the loops made of elongated and protruding filaments, and large yarns were formed due to heat treatment. Due to the difference in length, the threads separated and there was a problem in handling in the second stage.

(Problems to be Solved by the Invention) The present invention solves the above-mentioned drawbacks of the conventional polyester filament. The object of the present invention is to provide a novel composite multifilament that has a touch, appropriate elasticity, elasticity, and drapeability, and has no problem in passability.

(7 stages for solving the +7!J AM point) The present invention has the following configuration to solve this problem.

In other words, it is a composite multifilament composed of multifilament A and multifilament B whose thread physical properties are within the following range, and the composite multifilament is entangled with an entanglement degree of 20 to 100 cm/m. Composite multifilament with special features.

Multifilament A: A multifilament that is composed of a group of 2 to 1 filaments with an rli yarn denier difference of 1 denier or more (1) and whose s'V-PJ'11- yarn denier is 3 deniers or less (a multifilament containing 1 denier or less in a composite multifilament). A1 degree ratio 10 to 80% [denier ratio]) Multifilament B: Breaking strength is 4 g/f'=-le or less l・,
Multifilament (content rate in composite yarn 90~
20% [denier ratio]) SHW (A)≧0% S
HD (A)≦0% SHW (B)≧0% SHD (B) -8HD (A)≧5% SHW: Hot water (100°C) shrinkage rate SHD: Dry heat (160°C) shrinkage rate ffi: l + M water (100° C.) Shrinkage rate SHD: Shrinkage rate after drying #1 (180° C.) The present invention will be explained in detail below.

FIG. 1 is a model diagram of the composite multifilament of the present invention after being heat-treated to develop yarn length differences. In FIG. 1, A indicates L, which is a multifilament constituting a sheath, and has been substantially elongated by high-temperature heat treatment (multifilament after spontaneous elongation).

The commercial aspect of the present invention is that the multifilament I-A has at least two different yarn deniers (hereinafter referred to as dPf).
It is composed of multifilaments of groups 1 and 1. This is because, as shown in Figure 1, multifilament A that has been elongated by heat treatment has a different form of each filament due to the difference in dPt', resulting in a complex multi-layered form, and this results in subtle texture and depth, which will be explained later. It gives a sense of color. In order to realize this texture and deep color feeling, the difference in dPf between the two or more groups of multifilaments must be at least 1.0 denier or more.
is necessary.

Further, in order to provide a difference in curvature between the filaments, filaments having different cross-sectional shapes may be combined. In particular, if the dry heat shrinkage rate at 160℃ is different, the effect will be 11.
To 1- do. This is because the shape of multifilament A becomes complicated due to the development of yarn length differences due to heat treatment, which in turn increases the texture and deep color. In this case, the difference in dry heat shrinkage rate at 160° C. should be 1% or less.

Next, B is a multifilament constituting the core,
This is a multifilament that has been shrunk by heat treatment (multifilament after heat shrinkage).

Next, the heat shrinkage characteristics of the multifilament of the present invention will be discussed. When the multifilament A constituting the polyester composite yarn of the present invention has a normal sizing of about 11, the difference in shrinkage rate from the multifilament B is small, and the multifilament A also shows substantial shrinkage behavior. For this reason, even when the same yarn length difference is produced in the fabric, even if sizing is done at the yarn stage, the yarn length difference (bulges, loops, etc.) does not appear much, and even compared to ordinary different shrinkage mixed fiber yarns that are all heat-shrinkable. During weaving, the handleability and 1m property are much better. That is, if a yarn length difference (loop) occurs in the yarn state, naturally the loops rub against each other during beaming and weaving and get caught in guides, combs, etc., or the opening 11 becomes poor, resulting in a significant decrease in process passability. Furthermore, when ordinary heat-shrinkable multifilament is heat-treated during sizing, the heat set is almost fixed, and the final cent etc.
Even when subjected to high-temperature heat treatment at about 80°C, the difference in yarn length does not appear much after the initial heat setting. However, like the composite yarn of the present invention, it shrinks in hot water but does not show much difference in final setting.
By including multifilaments that elongate through heat treatment, the multifilaments A protrude in a loop shape from the surface of the shrunken fabric as a whole by processing at high temperatures, making it as soft and flexible as powder. This gives you a nice touch.

For this reason, 5) IW (A) ≧ 0% 1SHD (A) 50%
is required. SHD that swells and adds bulk to history
(B)-8HI) (A) ≧5% is required, and 5% end skin is excluded from the present invention because it has poor swelling and bulkiness. However, if it is too large, the protruding loop from the surface becomes too large, which tends to cause problems such as "shininess" during ironing, so it is preferably 50% or less. Also, for the same reason, 5HW
(A) is preferably 5% or less, and SHD (A) is preferably -15% or more.

Next, the elongation at break of the multifilament A should be 50% or more [-, in order to obtain a soft and flexible texture. Generally, in order to obtain a soft feel with polyester, it is easier to obtain a filament with a small SHW and a large elongation at break. As described in detail above, it is the spontaneously elongated multifilaments that form loops and cover the surface of the fabric, and the touch of these multifilaments determines the touch of the fabric. However, if the elongation at break is too large, the handling properties will deteriorate, so it is preferably 100% or less, more preferably 80% or less.

Next, the elongation at break of the multifilament B is preferably 40% or less, in order to avoid yarn unevenness due to the elongation of the composite yarn during winding, knitting, weaving, etc. Furthermore, this is to prevent problems such as the knees coming off in the product after it has been made into a fabric. In addition, the breaking strength of the composite yarn almost depends on the heat-shrinkable multifilament, so the breaking strength of the heat-shrinkable multifilament is at least 4 g/denier F:
The denier ratio of the two composite yarns must be 20% or more. Of course, if the breaking strength is high, the ratio of multifilament B may be slightly lower, but if it is not filled by 20%, the shrinkage force of multifilament B will be small and bulge due to the difference in yarn length will not easily occur, so it is excluded from the present invention. . Note that the hot water shrinkage rate and 160°C dry heat shrinkage rate of the multifilament B are preferably 5 to 60% and 7 to 80%, respectively.

Also, multifilament B is multifilament A
Similarly, it may be a composite of two or more groups with different characteristics such as dPf and SHD, or it may be a so-called thin, thick and thin yarn having thickness unevenness in the fiber axis direction.

Next, the multifilament A must be composed of single filament denier of 3 denier or less on average. Note that the average denier here is calculated as the total denier of multifilament A/total number of filaments. If the average denier exceeds 3 denier, the elongation at break is large and the texture becomes coarse sand even if the Young's modulus is low, so it is excluded from the present invention. However, if it is too thin, it will give a slimy feeling, so it is preferably 0.2 denier or thinner.

Next, it is preferable that each of the filaments of the multifilament A has an irregular cross section having at least one recess on the outer peripheral surface of the cross section. In particular, filaments with high breaking elongation, such as the composite yarn of the present invention, are soft but tend to feel slimy, so by making the cross-sectional shape irregular, the number of point contacts between filaments increases, especially for thick filaments of 1 dPf, making them dry. This results in a dry touch. Here, the irregular cross section refers to a triangular, hexagonal, oblate, hollow, etc. cross-sectional shape that has at least one recess on the outer circumferential surface of the cross-section, but the preferred cross-sectional shape of the It yarn of filament A used in the present invention is A typical example is shown in Figure 3.

In addition, in order to have this kind of texture and effect, these 1
Preferably, it consists of 0 or more filaments.

The composite multifilament then preferably has a substantially core/sheath structure. This is because a large amount of multifilament A exists in the surface layer of the composite multifilament, so that the loops tend to protrude from the surface of the fabric. Also,
Here, "substantially having a core/sheath structure" means only a structure in which the composite yarn is divided into a core part and a sheath part, that is, multifilament B and multifilament L-A, at the interface. Instead, both components are mixed throughout the composite yarn, especially near the interface, and multifilament B is 1:
, it also means a structure in which the core part is tied up and one multifilament A is arranged in the sheath part.

Next, it is essential that the present composite multifilament is entangled with an M degree of 20 to 100. If the degree of entanglement is less than 20, the multifilament is 1: the threads are likely to separate due to the difference in thread length, which significantly impedes the ability to pass through the threads.

On the other hand, if the degree of entanglement exceeds 100, interlace spots will be noticeable on the fabric, and the monofilaments of multifilament A may be cut and become fluffy, which is not preferable.

Next, the cross section of the multifilament B constituting the inner layer part is not particularly limited, but in order to provide bulkiness, hollow fibers,
In order to further coordinate the dry hand, it is also preferable to use a yarn with an irregular cross section that has at least one recess in the outer peripheral surface of the cross section of the filament with a cross section of 1 dPf or more, similar to the multifilament A. Historically, in the polyester composite yarn of the present invention, a copolymer such as 5-sodium sulfonic acid metal salt, isophthalic acid, or a fine powder inert substance is added to both or both of the multifilament A component and the multifilament B component, as necessary. It may also contain polyester fibers.

Next, it is also preferable that the present condensed yarn is in a heated state.

However, if the yarn is twisted too strongly, it is difficult to create a difference in yarn length, so 15
000/'[) (T/m) or less is preferable, but it is not necessarily limited to this when softness and flexibility are not required.

Next, the method for producing the polyester composite yarn of the present invention will be explained.

A schematic side view of the apparatus for producing polyester composite yarn of the present invention is illustrated in FIG. Low (dPf) with excellent spontaneous extensibility
To produce polyester multifilament A consisting of multiple groups of multifilaments consisting of holes, undrawn yarns with different dPf or SHI after drawing are combined individually or between or within nozzles, and then the obtained The undrawn yarns may be subjected to the drawing and heat treatment shown in FIG. 2 individually or in combination.

First, it is necessary to draw the unfemale drawn yarn spun at a spinning speed of 1,500 to 4,000 m/min at a drawing temperature of Tg - Tg + 20°C, a breaking elongation of 30 to 45%, and a Δno of 10 to 0.14. be. If the spinning speed is 2000 m/min and no droplets are used, the physical properties after stretching will be unstable, which is not preferable.

If it exceeds 4000rn;'min, the heat shrinkage rate after stretching will be low and the spontaneous elongation will be low, and the texture of the woven or knitted fabric will not be as desired. Preferably 2000-4000
m/min. The stretching temperature is Tg for stretching stability.
A temperature higher than 2' is required, but at a temperature higher than Tg + 20°C, crystallization progresses and spontaneous extensibility decreases. Furthermore, the elongation at break after drawing is important for the expression of spontaneous elongation, but in view of operability such as thread breakage during drawing, the elongation at break needs to be 30% or more. However, if the elongation at break is more than 45%, thread unevenness may occur, which is not preferable. In total, Δn is 0.10~
It is necessary to keep it in the range of 0.14, and outside this range, the stability of spontaneous elongation due to relaxing heat treatment is lacking. Next, relaxing heat treatment using a non-contact heater that increases spontaneous elongation can be selected as appropriate depending on the spontaneous elongation rate. Although it varies depending on the length, a range of 160-230°C is preferable.

If the temperature is lower than 160℃, the spontaneous elongation rate is low, and if the temperature exceeds 230℃, the multifilament will melt due to the heat of the heater when the dotting machine is stopped, and the restartability will be low, making it unsuitable for industrial use. Can not.

In addition, the relaxed take-up roller speed Vltlo~1500
m/min, relax non-contact heater length HL is 0.
1 to 2 m is preferable.

The overfeed rate is preferably 20 to 609 A in order to develop spontaneous elongation and stabilize the operability of relaxing heat treatment.

It should be noted that a contact heater needs to be a non-contact type heater because the multifilament running resistance causes insufficient yarn tension in the heater, causing roller winding and yarn breakage.

Next, this polyester multifilament is intertwined with at least polyester multifilament B having different heat shrinkage properties so that the denier ratio is 10~80%/90~20% at an entanglement degree of 20-100 co/m.

The interlacing device may be an ordinary interlacer that uses air, but since the combination of multifilaments A and H tends to generate fuzz, the yarn passage should be one with a small surface roughness, especially 3
It is preferable to use 8 or less. In addition, the conditions for the entangling process may be selected as appropriate depending on the degree of entangling required;
E 2 to 10 kg/CIllG1 Overfeed rate is preferably in the range of 0 to 0.8%.

Next, the polyester composite yarn is preferably twisted, set and/or glued at 85° C. or below, dried, and then woven as the warp and/or weft of a fabric. The reason for twisting is that this polyester composite yarn has a difference in dyeability between spontaneously elongated yarns and shrinkable yarns, so if they are simply intertwined, moire and unevenness will easily occur due to the difference in dyeing. Because it shows on the surface of the fabric, the quality of the surface is degraded, and warping, gluing, etc. This is because if tension is applied at a tension of about 2 m, the degree of entanglement will be low and loops will occur frequently, resulting in poor weavability.

For this purpose, it is sufficient for the number of overtwists to be 1100≦ to 6000≦6000, but in the case of a strong twist type, it may be selected as appropriate depending on the application. Here, the overtwist number (T/m)=Kf denier of the composite yarn.

Next, setting is applied, but the number of overtwists is 1100≦≦600
In the case of 0, gluing should be done by drying, and if the number of overtwists is K>6000, a twist fixing set should be applied. However, in all cases, it is preferable that the maximum temperature is 85°C or higher.

Furthermore, it is preferable that the twist setting is 70°C or lower. This is due to the following reason.

(2) The high-temperature dry heat treatment during sizing advances the crystallization of the fibers, reduces the spontaneous elongation that should be exhibited in 1 unit for dyeing, and makes it impossible to obtain a fabric with fullness in 1 unit.

■Differences in thread length occur due to high temperature dry heat treatment during sizing, resulting in poor weavability.

The temperature for sizing is preferably room temperature to 50°C, and the temperature for drying is preferably 75°C or lower. As the sizing agent, an ordinary acrylic sizing agent for filaments can be used. The sizing man-moon is a cylinder type made by Tsu II + Koma, and one made by Kawaki Kiki.The temperature of the first chamber is around 70℃, the second chamber is around 75℃, the draft inside the chamber is better to be low, and the tension is 0.1 to 0.2 g/d is preferable.

Of course, methods other than the method described in -[- may also be used as long as they have a low-temperature setting effect.

The weaving is preferably shuttleless weaving such as a water jet loom. This is because in shuttle looms, fluff tends to occur while the shuttle is flying.

By heat-treating the woven fabric thus obtained (at 110 to 200° C.) in a normal post-processing process, the spontaneously elongated yarn components are elongated, resulting in a soft-touch woven fabric with good texture and fullness.

When the multifilament A contains a micropore forming agent such as TiO2 or kaolinite, vertically long micropores are generated in the fiber axis direction by performing alkali reduction of 10 to 40%, preferably 15 to 35%. It is also preferable to include a micropore-forming agent because it provides a supple touch, deep color tone, and gloss.

Next, the configuration and effects of the present invention will be explained in more detail with reference to the following examples, but the present invention is not limited by the following examples.

(Example) Note that the measurement method implemented in the present invention is as follows.

(1) Elongation at break According to J15-L-1013 (1981), sample length (gauge length) was determined using Tensilon manufactured by Toyo Baldwin Co., Ltd.
200. The S-8 curve was measured at a tensile rate of 2001 cm/min, and the elongation at break was calculated.

■ Heat shrinkage: SHW, dry heat shrinkage (SHD)
According to JIS-L-1073, the following was carried out.

That is, take eight skeins of the same size with an initial load of 1/10 g/denier using a wrap reel with an appropriate frame circumference, apply a load of 1/30 g/denier to the skeins, and measure the length Q, (■s).

Then, remove the load and place the skein in water for 3 minutes with a load of 1/1000g/denier applied.
Soak for 0 minutes. Thereafter, the skein is taken out from the boiling water, and after cooling, a load of 1/30 g/denier is applied again to measure the length Q, (, ■).

Next, a cold is made under the same conditions and Q,(, ■) is measured. Then, heat treatment is performed in a dry oven at 1θ0° C. under a load of 1/1000 g/denier. Then, after cooling, a load of 1/30 g/denier is applied again to measure the length Q2 (-1). Hot water shrinkage rate (SHW
), the dry heat shrinkage rate (SHD) is calculated by the following formula.

S) Intertwining degree Take out a thread of appropriate length, apply a load of 1/Log/denier to the end and hang it directly on the street. Next, put an appropriate button into the system, hold it slowly, and measure the distance i1!(1(c■)) that it moves until the load is lifted 100 times. Calculate using the following formula.

(Examples) The present invention will be described in detail below using Examples, but the present invention is not limited to these Examples.

(Example 1 Comparative Example 1) A polyester polymer consisting essentially of ethylene terephthalate tP, repeating 9 times, was spun by a conventional method at a winding speed of 3.
After stretching and relaxing at 000 m/inch, the denier, hollowness ratio, DE, and 5HW1SHD become the physical properties shown in Table 1.
It was obtained by changing the spinning nozzle shape, spinning discharge M1 draw ratio, relaxation rate, relaxation temperature, and set JP-A. The heat-shrinkable multifilament was a commercially available Toyobo Ester manufactured by Toyobo Co., Ltd., and processed using a stretching/relaxing machine shown in FIG.

Here, the air nozzle 7 used was Airjet FG-1 manufactured by Fiber Guide Co., Ltd., and the air pressure and the feed ratio between the feed roller 6 and the delivery roller 8 were adjusted so that the degree of entanglement at the L1 mark was obtained. The physical properties of the raw yarn, the quality of the obtained composite yarn, and the yarn was twisted and warped using the usual method, and then pasted with a regular acrylic sizing agent for filaments using a sizing machine manufactured by Kawamura Seiki. After drying at 70°C in the first chamber of the rear cylinder and 75°C in the second chamber, weave the deshine by the usual method to 25°C.
The texture of the dyed fabric was evaluated after reducing the weight by % alkali. In addition, as for the process passability, the yarn twisting, winding, and weaving properties were evaluated, and the comprehensive evaluations in terms of passability, texture, color tone, and gloss are listed in Table 1.

Examples 1.2.3 had good texture and good two-culm passage within the scope of the present invention.

In Comparative Example 1, the heat-stretched multifilament (A) was the middle component, so the protruding loops on the surface of the fabric were almost uniform, and the texture was soft, flexible, and good, but it had a slightly RLL-like texture.

Comparative Example 2 shows the tli of heat-stretched multifilament (A).
The yarn denier was thick, so it lacked a soft feel.

In Comparative Example 3, the strength of the heat-shrinkable multifilament (B) was low, and the ΔSHD was also low, so there was a lot of thread breakage during the twisting weaving process, and the product was swollen and lacked a soft feel.

Comparative Examples 4 and 5 are heat extensible multifilament A with different single yarn fineness (Comparative Example 4) and different SHD (
Comparative Example 5) was used, but since the difference was small, the texture was similar to Comparative Example 1, with a slightly medium-tone tone.

In Comparative Example 6, the ratio of the heat-shrinkable multifilament (B) was too large, so the effect of the heat-stretched multifilament (A) was small, and the fabric lacked softness and softness before hand.

In Comparative Example 7, the ratio of the heat-shrinkable multifilament (B) was too small, so the strength of the composite yarn was low, yarn breakage occurred frequently, and the twistability was poor.

In Comparative Example 8, the heat-stretched multifilament (A) has substantially shrunk and the elongation at break has been low, so the texture is similar to that of the conventional differentially shrinkable mixed fiber yarn, and the texture is different from the eleventh target texture of the present invention. was completely different.

In Comparative Example 9, the heat-shrinkable multifilament (B) was also substantially elongated, and the elongation at break was also low, so that when tension was applied, the elongation did not pass easily and many fabric defects occurred.

In Comparative Example 10, the texture was soft and good, but the degree of entanglement was low, so there was a problem in process passability.

In Comparative Example 11, the degree of entanglement was high, so the process passability was good, but moiré spots appeared and the quality of the fabric was significantly lowered.

(Effects of the Invention) As described above, the composite multifilament of the present invention is softer, more flexible, has a T-L dry touch, has moderate firmness, has lower waist, and is softer and more flexible than conventional hole-shrink mixed fiber yarns (including heat-stretched yarns). It has drapability, the fabric surface has a natural appearance due to the multi-layer crimp, and it has the remarkable effect of having excellent upper passage properties.

[Brief explanation of the drawing]

FIG. 1 is a model diagram of the polyester composite yarn of the present invention heat-treated to develop a yarn length difference. FIG. 2 is a schematic side view showing an example of a manufacturing apparatus. A: Heat-stretched multifilament B: Heat-shrinkable multifilament C: Polyester composite yarn of the present invention 3: Hot roller 5: Non-contact heater 7: Air jet nozzle Figure 3 is representative of the cross-sectional shape of the multifilament A of the present invention. Give an example. : ; no J A: White ivy θ further 7 Ruti 7,; 7 Meji F73: Stirring ♂
4 (Title r Moxibustion 7 Rute 7 (7 Men F Kai 2 Figure 7j Air; "17 J' / te 1 Shihomare 3 Proceedings Amendment (Towards) September 2, 1999 1, Incident Indication 1999 Patent Application No. 122087 2 Name of the invention Composite multifilament 3, Relationship to the case of the person making the amendment Patent applicant 2-2-8-5 Dojimahama, Kita-ku, Osaka City Drawing subject to amendment 6, Amendment Contents (1) Figure 1 is corrected as shown in the attached sheet.

Claims (1)

[Claims] (1) A composite multifilament composed of multifilament A and multifilament B whose yarn physical properties satisfy the following range, and the composite multifilament is entangled with an entanglement degree of 20 to 100 co/m. Composite multifilament characterized by. Multifilament A: A multifilament consisting of two or more filament groups with a difference in single filament denier of 1 denier or more, and whose average single filament denier is 3 denier or less (
Multifilament B: multifilament with a breaking strength of 4 g/denier or more (content in the composite yarn 90 to 80% [denier ratio])
20% [denier ratio]) @SHW@(A)≧0% @SHD@(A)≦0% SHW(B)≧0% SHD(B)-@SHD@(A)≧5% SHW: Hot water (100℃) Shrinkage rate (%) SHD: Dry heat (160℃) Shrinkage rate (%) @SHW@: Average hot water (100℃) Shrinkage rate @SHD@: Average Dry heat (160℃) Shrinkage rate