JP3003280B2 - Method for producing interlining fabric - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a method for producing a thin and soft woven fabric suitable for interlining fabrics, in particular, for thin blouse and dress interlining for women.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art For use in thin blouse and dress interlining for ladies, thin processed yarn woven fabric using polyester multifilament yarn twisting type processed yarn and spun yarn composed of polyester fiber staples are used. A polyester spun yarn woven fabric woven using the same or a mixed spun woven fabric woven using a mixed spun yarn of a cellulose fiber staple such as a cotton fiber or a polynosic fiber and a polyester fiber staple is used.

[0003]

However, the above-mentioned processed yarn woven fabric has a thickness of 30 to 50 denier (177 to 10 denier).
(Equivalent to 6 English number) Polyester multifilament yarn is woven using a twisted type processed yarn, so that a thin fabric can be obtained, but the yarn surface is smooth and easy to look at. If the density is increased in order to prevent this, there is a problem that the softness and the drapability decrease.

[0004] Spun yarn woven fabrics of polyester fibers and mixed spun woven fabrics composed of cellulosic fiber staples and polyester fiber staples, when the yarns are made thinner, the number of yarn breaks during weaving increases, so that about 80 English counts are used. This is the limit of the weaving property, and there is a problem that the texture is coarse and hard and the drape property is poor.

The present invention can be used as an interlining for thin blouses and dresses, and has good adhesion to thin filament fabrics and cotton fabrics constituting these blouses and dresses. The present invention provides an interlining with good shape retention without fear of eye contact.

[0006]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION According to the present invention, a polyester filament and a spun fiber are formed by opening a polyester multifilament yarn, and superposing and twisting a roving yarn for spinning on the opened polyester multifilament yarn. To produce a composite yarn randomly mixed, then weaving a woven fabric using this composite yarn for at least one of the warp and the weft, treating the resulting woven fabric with an aqueous alkaline solution to reduce the polyester fibers in the woven fabric. It is characterized by weight loss.

[0007] In the present invention, the above-mentioned composite yarn is a spinning roving made of an arbitrary fiber staple, for example, a roving made of a polyester fiber staple, a polyester fiber staple and a polynosic fiber staple, a cotton fiber, etc., on a back roller of a spinning machine. Of the mixed fiber with the cellulose fiber staples, and the draft is led to the front roller. On the other hand, the polyester multifilament yarn is electrically opened and supplied to the front roller. It is manufactured by superimposing a polyester multifilament yarn in a state and a spun roving yarn and twisting them immediately after exiting a front roller.

[0008] The fineness of one filament constituting the polyester multifilament yarn is 0.1 to 1.5.
Denier, especially 0.3 to 1.0 denier, is preferred. The total fineness of the polyester multifilament yarn composed of the polyester filament is 20 to 100.
Denier, especially 30 to 75 denier, is preferred. Also,
The fineness of the polyester fiber staple mixed with the polyester multifilament yarn is preferably 0.1 to 1.5 denier, particularly preferably 0.5 to 1.2 denier, and the fineness of the polynosic fiber staple is 0.5 to 2. 0 denier, especially 0.7 to 1.5 denier is preferred.

[0009] The mixing ratio of the polyester multifilament yarn and the spun roving mixed therewith is preferably 90 to 10% of the spun roving yarn to 10 to 90% of the polyester multifilament yarn. When a mixed roving of polyester fiber staples and other fiber staples such as cellulosic fiber staples is used as the spun roving, the composition ratio of the polyester fiber staples in the mixed spun roving is preferably 30 to 70%.

The thickness of the composite yarn comprising the polyester multifilament yarn and the spun roving yarn is preferably 30 to 120 English count, particularly preferably 50 to 100 English count. The composite yarn is woven using at least one of a warp and a weft. The texture in that case is preferably a plain weave having a cover factor of 10 to 16 and a low density and a low density. In addition, as the yarn used other than the composite yarn, any fiber yarn can be used, and a polyester multifilament yarn, a spun yarn made of polyester fiber staple, polynosic fiber staple, cotton fiber, a blended yarn, etc. Is exemplified.

The woven fabric obtained by weaving is subjected to an alkali weight reduction process. The alkaline aqueous solution used preferably has a caustic soda content of 5 to 35% by weight, particularly preferably 10 to 30% by weight. Further, the treatment temperature is preferably 95 to 100 ° C., and the treatment time is preferably 60 to 90 minutes. Further, the obtained interlining fabric is preferably used by applying a thermoplastic resin such as polyethylene or polyester in a dotted manner.

[0012]

[Function] Since the composite yarn has a polyester filament, the yarn strength is greater than that of the spun yarn. In addition, the polyester filament and the fiber staple for spinning are randomly mixed in fiber units in the cross section, so that the filament is The surface is smoother and more durable than core-spun yarn whose periphery is covered with staples, and it is bulkier and softer in texture than filament yarn. Therefore,
Weaving is facilitated, thin yarns can be used, and warp and weft yarns are less likely to be offset.

Since the polyester filament is thinned by the weight reduction after weaving, the texture is further softened, the drape property is improved, and the adhesiveness to the surface material when used for interlining is excellent. Later familiarity with the dress material. In particular, when a blended roving containing polyester fiber staples is used as the spun roving, the polyester fiber staples are reduced along with the polyester filaments when treated with an alkaline aqueous solution, so that the texture becomes softer and the bulkiness increases. .

However, if the fineness of the polyester filament is less than 0.1 denier, mixing with staples becomes difficult, and if it exceeds 1.5 denier, the hand becomes hard. On the other hand, if the composition ratio of the polyester filament in the composite yarn is less than 10%, the filament separates from the staple and does not change to a mere spun yarn, and if it exceeds 90%, the effect of using the staple cannot be obtained. . On the other hand, if the thickness of the composite yarn is less than 30 English counts, the thickness becomes too large to be used for the purpose of the present invention, and if it exceeds 120 English counts, the weaving property decreases.

[0015] If the cover factor of the woven fabric is less than 10, clogging occurs during dyeing, and if it is more than 16, the hand becomes hard. If the caustic soda concentration of the alkaline aqueous solution is less than 5% by weight, the rate of weight loss is too slow and a long time is required to obtain a desired rate of weight loss. Conversely, if it exceeds 35% by weight, the rate of weight loss is too fast to control. become.

[0016]

EXAMPLE Polyester multifilament yarn (42 denier, 108 filaments) was guided to an electric fiber opening device provided above a draft portion of a spinning machine to spread the fiber, and supplied to a front roller. Also, polyester fiber staples (fineness 0.7 denier, fiber length 3
8 mm) and polynosic fiber staples (fineness 0.7 denier, fiber length 38 mm) were supplied at a ratio of 7/3, and a draft was fed to a front roller. The polyester filament, polyester fiber staple, and polynosic fiber staple are mixed at a ratio of 47:37:16 by twisting with a twist coefficient of 6.1 after overlapping under a polyester multifilament yarn and passing through a front roller. A composite yarn of 60 English count was obtained.

The above-mentioned composite yarn is used for both warp and weft, and has a warp density of 58 yarns / inch and a weft density of 50 yarns / inch.
An inch (cover factor 13.9) plain weave was woven. Next, the above woven fabric was immersed in an alkaline aqueous solution (caustic soda concentration: 15% by weight, temperature: 98 ° C.) for 60 minutes to perform weight reduction processing, and further subjected to dyeing processing. As a result, an interlining fabric excellent in drape property was obtained. Then, a powder of polyethylene resin was sprayed on the woven fabric for the interlining, heated to dryness at 200 ° C. and adhered in a dotted manner, and used for a lining of a blouse made of 75 denier polyester different shrinkage mixed fiber. , The familiarity with the blouse ground was very good.

[0018]

As described above, the present invention relates to a method of weaving a woven fabric using a composite yarn in which polyester filaments and spun fibers are randomly mixed, treating the woven fabric with an alkaline aqueous solution, This is a method of manufacturing interlining fabric by reducing the weight, so that the yarn strength at the time of weaving increases compared to the conventional spun yarn and weaving becomes easier, so that it is possible to use thin yarn and the texture is improved. As it becomes soft, drape property improves, it becomes bulkier than conventional filament yarn, and it has a texture similar to spun yarn,
It is difficult for the warp and the weft in the woven fabric to shift.

Since the polyester filament is thinned by the weight reduction after weaving, the texture is further softened, the drape property is improved, and when used for the interlining of thin women's blouses and dresses, the outer fabric becomes thinner. Has good adhesion to the surface material after sewing and does not impair the drapeability of the surface material. In particular, when a blended roving containing polyester fiber staples is used as the spun roving, the texture is further softened because the polyester fiber staples are reduced along with the polyester filaments when treated with an alkaline aqueous solution.

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Claims (1)

(57) [Claims] 1. A composite yarn in which a polyester filament and a spun fiber are randomly mixed by opening a polyester multifilament yarn, superposing a roving yarn for spinning on the opened polyester multifilament yarn and twisting. A woven fabric is produced by using the composite yarn as at least one of a warp and a weft, and the obtained woven fabric is treated with an aqueous alkaline solution to reduce the amount of polyester fibers in the woven fabric. Manufacturing method of local textile.