JPH10325033A - Production of woven fabric of hard twist yarn - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a method for obtaining a woven textile of a hard twist yarn, having good craping even when a yarn comprising a polyester filament obtained by one step process of high speed spinning is used. SOLUTION: A polyester filament spun by one step process of high speed spinning and having >=90 g/d Young's modulus at the first inflection point Y1 of a differentiated Young's modulus curve, >=40 g/d Young's modulus at the second inflection point Y2 and >=45 g/d Young's modulus at the third inflection point Y3, and further >=0.25 g/d peak stress of a heat shrinkage stress and >=10% shrinkage in boiling water is subjected to a hard twisting, and further subjected to heat treatment for twist setting. The obtained set polyester filament is woven and subjected to a finishing processing including craping to provide the objective woven fabric of the hard twist yarn, in the method for producing the woven fabric of the hard twist yarn.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a method for producing a good twisted woven fabric using a filament made of polyester filament obtained by a one-step method of high-speed spinning.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art It is well known that a high twist yarn is produced by adding a strong twist to a yarn made of polyester filament, and a strongly twisted crimped woven fabric is produced using the strong twist yarn. This is a method for producing a crimped woven fabric using a strongly twisted drawn yarn (hereinafter, referred to as “FDY”) obtained by a method. At present, however, no satisfactory products have been obtained. The reason is that the amorphous state of the polyester fiber forming the yarn obtained by the one-step method is loose and the restraint state is low, and the strain of the molecular chain is small even with strong twisting due to its low degree of tension. This is because it is not possible to obtain a woven fabric having a small torque and a good texture.

[0003]

DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION The present invention has been made in view of the above situation, and even when a yarn made of polyester filament obtained by a one-step method of high-speed spinning is used, crimping can be achieved. It is intended to provide a method by which a good high-twisted crimped fabric can be obtained.

[0004]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The present invention has been made to solve the above-mentioned problems, and has a first inflection point Y of a differential Young's modulus curve.
1 has a Young's modulus of 90 g / denier or more, the second inflection point Y
The Young's modulus of No. 2 is 40 g / denier or more, the Young's modulus of the third inflection point Y3 is 45 g / denier or more, the peak heat shrinkage stress is 0.25 g / denier or more, and the boiling water shrinkage ratio is 10% or less. The polyester filaments drawn by a one-step high-speed spinning process having the following characteristics are subjected to strong twisting, and then subjected to a heat treatment to prevent twisting, and woven using the warp or warp or weft yarn. The gist of the present invention is a method for weaving a twisted yarn woven fabric, which comprises finishing work including standing.

[0005]

DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS The present invention will be described below in detail.
According to the present invention, a twisted woven fabric is manufactured by using a yarn composed of polyester filaments drawn by a one-step high-speed spinning method. The polyester filaments used in the present invention contain a polyethylene terephthalate component in an amount of 80 mol%. It is necessary to be composed of the above-mentioned polyester, and it is more preferable that the polyester contains 95 mol% or more.

The yarn made of polyester filament used in the present invention has a Young's modulus at the primary inflection point Y1 of the differential Young's modulus curve of 90 g / denier or more and a Young's modulus at the secondary inflection point Y2 of 40 g. / Denier or more and the third inflection point Y3
Needs to be 45 g / denier or more.
The Young's modulus of the primary inflection point Y1 of the differential Young's modulus curve is 90
When the Young's modulus of the secondary inflection point Y2 is less than 40 g / denier or the Young's modulus of the tertiary inflection point Y3 is less than 45 g / denier, not only the grain formation becomes poor, but also , Satisfaction cannot be obtained due to lack of tension.

The differential Young's modulus referred to in the present invention refers to each point of a load-elongation curve as shown in FIG. 1 measured using a constant speed elongation type tensile tester at a sample length of 30 cm and a tensile speed of 30 cm / min. The differential Young's modulus (g / denier) is plotted with the differential Young's modulus (g / denier) as the axis and the tensile stress (g / denier) as the horizontal axis. It is a Young's modulus curve.

The first inflection point Y in the differential Young's modulus curve
One point indicates the initial Young's modulus in the normal load-elongation curve of FIG. 1, and the second inflection point Y2 of the differential Young's modulus curve is r1 which is the elastic limit in the normal load-elongation curve of FIG. The stress at the second inflection point Y2 gives information on the orientation level of the molecular chains in the amorphous part.
The Young's modulus at the secondary inflection point Y2 changes depending on the binding tension level of the molecular chain in the amorphous part, and the one with a low binding tension level has a small Young's modulus at the secondary inflection point Y2, and conversely Those who are nervous have a higher Young's modulus. FIG. 2
The third inflection point Y3 corresponds to the intermediate stress value r2 point in FIG. 1, and the stress at this r2 point represents the stretching tension or the stretching ratio, and the third inflection point Y3 Reflects the total orientation of the molecular chains.

[0009] The peak stress of the heat shrinkage stress is required to be 2 g / denier or more. If the peak stress of the heat shrinkage stress is less than 2 g / denier, the untwisting torque is generated at the time of embossing in finishing. Weak, good grain cannot be obtained.

[0010] The peak stress of the above-mentioned heat shrinkage stress is obtained by using a commercially available heat shrinkage stress measuring instrument, setting a sample to a ring having a diameter of 15 cm, setting the initial tension to 0.1 g / denier, and setting the temperature rising rate to 3 g / denier.
The measurement was performed at 00 ° C. for 60 seconds, and the maximum stress value (g / denier) developed at that time was determined.

[0011] The boiling water shrinkage must be 10% or less, and if the boiling water shrinkage exceeds 10%, the crimping becomes poor and fine uniform crimps cannot be obtained. . More preferably, the boiling water shrinkage is 2 to 6%. That is, when the boiling water shrinkage exceeds 10%,
This is because the warp yarn bound at the texture point of the fabric becomes in a tension state, the potential torque is not maximized, and good crimping cannot be performed.

The boiling water shrinkage is measured by measuring the length A of the sample at an initial load of 1 g / denier, then treating the sample in boiling water for 30 minutes in a free state, and after natural drying, the initial load of 1 g / denier. This is a value calculated by the following equation by measuring the length B below.

Boiling water shrinkage (%) = ((A−B) / A) × 100 The polyester filament used in the present invention is obtained by spinning polyester at high speed. It is not possible to obtain a yarn having the required yarn quality performance only by increasing the spinning speed, but it is possible to manufacture by setting the take-up speed, the drawing speed, and the drawing temperature to appropriate conditions. For example, using a melt spinning machine schematically shown in FIG. 3, when melt-spinning polyester, the speed ratio between the second roll 4 and the first roll 3 is twice or more, and the temperature of the second roll is 150 ° C. or more. Is preferred. in this case,
The speed of the first roll is set to 2500 m / min or less, and the speed of the second roll 4 is set to be twice or more the speed of the first roll 3. The speed ratio between the second roll 4 and the first roll 3 is 2
The speed of the first roll is 2500 m /
Beyond this, it is difficult to obtain a yarn having a yarn quality such as that used in the present invention.
It is necessary to make the speed ratio between the roll 4 and the first roll 3 extremely large, so that the yarn is liable to be fluffed or the yarn is frequently broken, making it difficult to obtain a satisfactory yarn.

In the present invention, the yarn composed of polyester filaments drawn by the high-speed spinning method having the above-mentioned characteristics is subjected to strong twisting, heat treatment for twist prevention is performed, and this is used as a warp or a warp or a weft. After weaving, finish processing including embossing is performed.

The twist given to the yarn has a twist coefficient of 86
Preferably, the twist is from 00 to 28000.
Twisted yarn and Z-twisted yarn are used in a well-balanced manner. The twist coefficient K is a value obtained from the equation K = T × D ^1/2 where T is the number of twists per meter and D is the fineness expressed in denier. If the twist coefficient is less than 8600, the texture as a twisted yarn fabric is difficult to appear, and if it exceeds 28,000, the yarn is liable to generate fluff or twisting is liable to occur, resulting in poor weaving operability. In addition, the possibility that the quality of the woven fabric is reduced is increased.

The heat treatment for twist prevention is usually performed by a steam set at 80 to 100 ° C. Finishing work including weaving and embossing may be performed using conventional equipment. In general, embossing is performed as the first step of the finishing process using washers, etc. It is preferable from the point of view.

[0017]

According to the present invention, the Young's modulus at the first inflection point Y1 of the differential Young's modulus curve is 90 g / denier or more, the Young's modulus at the second inflection point Y2 is 40 g / denier or more, and the third inflection is obtained. Even in a one-step method, the Young's modulus at the point Y3 is 45 g / denier or more, and the peak of heat shrinkage stress is 0.25 g / denier or more, and the boiling water shrinkage is 10% or less. Since a yarn with low shrinkage and large shrinkage stress is used, the torque generation at the time of crimping is large,
A twisted woven fabric having good grain can be obtained.

[0018]

The present invention will be described below in more detail with reference to examples. The evaluation of the woven fabric in the examples was performed as follows.

(1) Standing of Grain By visual observation, evaluation was made in three stages: ：: the grain was uniform and deep, Δ: the grain was shallow, and ×: the grain was shallow and non-uniform.

(2) Good: good
Δ: fairly good, ×: bad

(3) Feeling of swelling The visual and tactile sensations were evaluated on a three-point scale: ：: good, Δ: slightly good, ×: bad.

Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 5 Using polyethylene terephthalate having a relative viscosity of 1.38 and a melting point of 256 ° C., the speed and temperature of the first roller 3 and the second roller were determined by the melt spinning apparatus shown in FIG. By changing the speed and temperature of No. 4 and the speed of the take-up roll 5 as shown in Table 1, eight types of highly oriented drawn yarns of 75 denier and 36 filaments were obtained. Table 1 shows the spinning conditions and the measurement results of the yarn quality of the highly oriented drawn yarn at this time.

Next, these highly oriented drawn yarns are subjected to a high twist of 2500 t / m (twist coefficient 21650) with a double twister, and subjected to a heat treatment for preventing twisting at 85 ° C. for 45 minutes by a vacuum setting machine. Was used for the warp and the weft, and a flat structure having a warp density of 90 / inch and a weft density of 80 / inch was woven. Each of the obtained greige machines is embossed (washer 110 ° C. × 30 minutes), refined (liquid dyeing machine 80 ° C.).
× 20 minutes), preset (180 ° C. × 40 seconds), weight loss (weight loss rate 10%, NaOH 40 g / liter), dyeing (liquid flow dyeing machine 130 ° C. × 30 minutes, Foron Yellow SE-CTL 2% owf,
Rubine SE-CTL 0.2% owf, Dark Blue SE-CTL 0.3% ow
f) Through a finishing step of a finishing set (170 ° C. × 30 seconds), a twisted woven fabric according to the present invention was obtained.

The obtained twisted woven fabric was visually and tactilely inspected for graininess, firmness, stiffness and swelling. The results are shown in Table 1.

[0025]

[Table 1]

As is evident from Table 1, the fabrics of Examples 1 to 3 according to the present invention have a good texture, have firmness and stiffness, and have a swelling feeling, showing satisfactory results. . On the other hand, Comparative Example 1 using a yarn in which the Young's modulus of the primary inflection point Y1 of the differential Young's modulus curve is less than 90 g / denier is the case where the yarn is crimped, stiffened,
In Comparative Example 2 using a yarn having a poor swelling feeling and a Young's modulus of the secondary inflection point Y2 of less than 40 g / denier, the binding tension of the molecular chain in the amorphous part of the yarn was low. Since the latent torque was weak, the fabric was poorly embossed. In Comparative Example 3 using a yarn having a Young's modulus of the third inflection point Y3 of less than 45 g / denier, the yarn was crumpled and had a poor swelling feeling. The woven fabric of Comparative Example 4 using yarns having a peak heat shrinkage stress of less than 0.25 g / denier had poor crimping and was unsatisfactory. Comparative Example 5 using a yarn having a boiling water shrinkage of more than 10% was an unsatisfactory woven fabric due to insufficient crimping.

[0027]

The present invention uses a yarn made of polyester filament obtained by a one-step method of high-speed spinning, which is lower in production cost than a drawn yarn obtained by a two-step method. It is a method for producing a twisted woven fabric, which is a very useful twisted woven fabric that contributes to cost reduction and quality improvement and stability.

[Brief description of the drawings]

FIG. 1 schematically shows a load-elongation curve of a yarn.

FIG. 2 schematically shows a differential Young's modulus curve of a yarn.

FIG. 3 is a schematic view of a melt spinning machine for obtaining a yarn used in the present invention.

[Explanation of symbols]

 DESCRIPTION OF SYMBOLS 1 Spinneret 2 Converging tool 3 First roll 4 Second roll 5 Winding bobbin

Claims (1)

[Claims] The first inflection point Y1 of the differential Young's modulus curve has a Young's modulus of 90 g / denier or more, the secondary inflection point Y2 has a Young's modulus of 40 g / denier or more, and a tertiary inflection point Y
Polyester filaments drawn by a one-step high-speed spinning process having a Young's modulus of 45 g / denier or more, a peak heat shrinkage stress of 0.25 g / denier or more, and a boiling water shrinkage of 10% or less. A strong twist is applied to the yarn
A method for weaving a twisted woven fabric, which comprises performing a twisting heat treatment, weaving the yarn as a warp or a warp or a weft, and then performing a finishing process including embossing.