JP7259200B2 - polyester false twisted yarn - Google Patents

polyester false twisted yarn Download PDF

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JP7259200B2
JP7259200B2 JP2017226549A JP2017226549A JP7259200B2 JP 7259200 B2 JP7259200 B2 JP 7259200B2 JP 2017226549 A JP2017226549 A JP 2017226549A JP 2017226549 A JP2017226549 A JP 2017226549A JP 7259200 B2 JP7259200 B2 JP 7259200B2
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multifilament
yarn
twisted yarn
fluff
fineness
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JP2019094595A (en
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信敬 山口
泰崇 加藤
潤一郎 吉原
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Toray Industries Inc
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Description

本発明は、ソフトな肌触り・接触感と、織編物にした際に微細に分散した自然な杢感、および適度な柔らかさを発現できる天然素材調のポリエステル仮撚糸に関する。 TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to a polyester false-twisted yarn with a natural texture that can exhibit a soft feel and contact feeling, a finely dispersed natural heathered feel, and moderate softness when woven or knitted.

合成繊維は、機械的特性をはじめ、様々な優れた特性から一般衣料用分野に広く利用されている。特にポリエステルを用いた編織物について、布帛にした際に天然繊維のような毛羽感、風合いを表現する素材として、ポリエステル毛羽糸やループ糸、スパンライク糸が種々提案されている。これらは、延伸加工や仮撚加工時に付与する空気処理によりマルチフィラメントの単フィラメントを切断する、または弛ませることで毛羽やループを糸条に存在させた加工糸である。特にこの毛羽・ループの個数、単フィラメントの横断面形状をコントロールすることで、肌触りや風合いを天然調、スパンライクなものとしたポリエステル毛羽糸の提案がされている(特許文献1)。しかしながら、この提案は合成繊維特有である染色の均一性から、布帛にした際には色調変化に乏しく、見た目が人工的な布帛となる。 Synthetic fibers are widely used in the field of general clothing because of their various excellent properties including mechanical properties. In particular, for knitted fabrics using polyester, various polyester fluff yarns, loop yarns, and spun-like yarns have been proposed as materials that express the fluffiness and texture of natural fibers when made into fabrics. These are textured yarns in which fluff and loops are present in the yarn by cutting or loosening single filaments of multifilaments by air treatment applied during drawing or false twisting. In particular, by controlling the number of fluff/loops and the cross-sectional shape of the single filament, a polyester fluff yarn has been proposed that has a natural, spun-like touch and feel (Patent Document 1). However, in this proposal, due to the uniformity of dyeing that is peculiar to synthetic fibers, when it is made into a fabric, the color tone is poor and the fabric looks artificial.

一方で、見た目の意匠性向上を課題としたポリエステル太細延伸糸や太細仮撚加工糸が種々提案されている。特にポリエステルマルチフィラメント部分配向未延伸糸の定応力領域以下にあたる延伸倍率にて加工し、単フィラメントに部分的な未延伸となる太部を発現させることや、または部分配向未延伸糸に弛緩熱処理を施し、単フィラメントに部分的な太部を発現させることで、分子配向差・染料の吸着性差により、糸条長手方向に濃淡変化を持たせたポリエステル糸の提案がされている(特許文献2、3)。 On the other hand, various proposals have been made for polyester thick and thin drawn yarns and thick and thin false-twisted textured yarns, which are intended to improve the appearance of the yarn. In particular, polyester multifilament partially oriented undrawn yarn is processed at a draw ratio equal to or lower than the constant stress region to develop a partially undrawn thick portion in the single filament, or a relaxation heat treatment is applied to the partially oriented undrawn yarn. A proposal has been made for a polyester yarn that has a gradation change in the longitudinal direction of the yarn due to the difference in molecular orientation and the difference in dye adsorption by making the single filament develop a partial thick part (Patent Document 2, 3).

特開平8-260278号公報JP-A-8-260278 特開2017-106141号公報JP 2017-106141 A 特開平7-90739号公報JP-A-7-90739

しかしながら、いずれの特許文献においても太細部の繊維径差や分子配向差が大きく、また単フィラメントの太細のピッチも大きいことから、布帛にした際には色差コントラストの大きく、杢調の荒い布帛となるため、天然素材のような自然な杢感とはほど遠いといった課題がある。 However, in any of the patent documents, the fiber diameter difference and molecular orientation difference in the thick part are large, and the pitch of the single filament is also large, so when it is made into a fabric, the color difference contrast is large, and the heathered fabric is rough. Therefore, there is a problem that it is far from the natural heathered feeling of natural materials.

本発明は、ソフトな肌触り・接触感と、織編物にした際に、微細に分散した自然な杢感、および適度な柔らかさを発現できる天然素材調のポリエステル仮撚糸を提供することである。 To provide a natural material-like false twisted polyester yarn capable of exhibiting a soft touch and touch feeling, finely dispersed natural heathered feeling, and appropriate softness when woven or knitted.

上記課題を解決するため、ポリエステル仮撚糸に発現させる毛羽の個数、単フィラメント繊度、マルチフィラメントの長手繊度ムラ、およびマルチフィラメントの伸縮復元率を鋭意検討した。 In order to solve the above problems, the number of fluffs to be developed in the polyester false twisted yarn, the single filament fineness, the longitudinal fineness unevenness of the multifilament, and the stretch recovery rate of the multifilament were extensively studied.

その結果、本発明は、ポリエステルマルチフィラメント仮撚糸であり、糸条長手方向に寸断された毛羽を有し、かつ下記(1)~(4)とすることで課題解決に至ったものである。
(1)前記毛羽の頻度が100~400個/25m。
(2)マルチフィラメントの単フィラメント繊度の平均が0.5~1.5dtex。
(3)マルチフィラメントの長手繊度ムラが1.3~2.0%。
ただし、マルチフィラメントの長手繊度ムラとは、USTER TESTERを使用し、解舒速度25m/分、加撚方向をS撚り4000T/m、測定時間3分の条件にて測定したU%ノーマルの値のことである。
(4)マルチフィラメントの伸縮復元率CRが15%以上。
As a result, the present invention is a polyester multifilament false-twisted yarn, has fluff that is shredded in the longitudinal direction of the yarn, and has the following (1) to (4) to solve the problems.
(1) The frequency of fluff is 100 to 400 /25m.
(2) The average single filament fineness of the multifilament is 0.5 to 1.5 dtex.
(3) Longitudinal fineness unevenness of multifilament is 1.3 to 2.0%.
However, the unevenness of the longitudinal fineness of multifilament is the U% normal value measured using a USTER TESTER under the conditions of an unwinding speed of 25 m/min, an S twist of 4000 T/m in the twisting direction, and a measurement time of 3 minutes. That is.
(4) The multifilament stretch recovery rate CR is 15% or more.

本発明のポリエステル仮撚糸の好ましい態様によれば、前記毛羽の平均長さが1.0mm以上である。 According to a preferred embodiment of the polyester false twisted yarn of the present invention, the average length of the fluff is 1.0 mm or more.

本発明のポリエステル仮撚糸の好ましい態様によれば、酸化チタンを0.2~3.0%含有する。 According to a preferred embodiment of the polyester false twist yarn of the present invention, it contains 0.2 to 3.0% of titanium oxide.

本発明のポリエステル仮撚糸の好ましい態様によれば、マルチフィラメントを構成する全単フィラメントの任意の50%の断面扁平度が1.5~2.5である。 According to a preferred embodiment of the polyester false twist yarn of the present invention, any 50% of all single filaments constituting the multifilament have a cross-sectional flatness of 1.5 to 2.5.

本発明によれば、ソフトな肌触り・接触感と、織編物にした際に、微細に分散した自然な杢感、および適度な柔らかさを発現できる天然素材調のポリエステル仮撚糸を提供できる。 According to the present invention, it is possible to provide a natural material-like false twisted polyester yarn capable of exhibiting a soft texture and touch feeling, a finely dispersed natural heathered feeling, and appropriate softness when woven or knitted.

本発明のポリエステル仮撚糸を例示説明するための模式側面図である。BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS FIG. 1 is a schematic side view for illustrating the polyester false twisted yarn of the present invention; 本発明のポリエステル仮撚糸の単フィラメント横断面を例示説明するための模式図である。BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS Fig. 1 is a schematic diagram for illustrating the cross section of a single filament of the polyester false twist yarn of the present invention; 本発明のポリエステル仮撚糸の加工工程を説明するための概略図である。BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS FIG. 1 is a schematic diagram for explaining the processing steps of the polyester false twisted yarn of the present invention. 本発明のポリエステル仮撚糸に用いる部分配向未延伸糸の自然延伸比を説明するための張力伸長曲線の概略図である。1 is a schematic diagram of a tension elongation curve for explaining the natural draw ratio of a partially oriented undrawn yarn used in the polyester false twisted yarn of the present invention. FIG.

次に、本発明のポリエステル仮撚糸について、詳細に説明する。 Next, the polyester false twisted yarn of the present invention will be described in detail.

本発明のポリエステル仮撚糸は、ポリエステル単一成分のマルチフィラメントであり、糸条長手方向に寸断された毛羽(図1-2)が存在している。 The polyester false-twisted yarn of the present invention is a multifilament made of a single polyester component, and has fluff (FIG. 1-2) cut in the longitudinal direction of the yarn.

本発明のポリエステル仮撚糸のマルチフィラメント糸条長手方向にて存在する毛羽の個数は100~500個/25mであり、好ましくは200~400個/25mである。毛羽の個数が100個/25m未満の場合、接触の際に毛羽端によるソフトな肌触り・接触感が得られない。また毛羽の個数が500個/25mを越える場合、ボワボワとした肌触りとなり、毛羽がまとわりつくため接触感が悪い。また、繊維強度・製糸性・布帛品位の観点からも好ましくない。 The number of fluffs present in the longitudinal direction of the multifilament yarn of the polyester false twist yarn of the present invention is 100 to 500/25 m, preferably 200 to 400/25 m. If the number of fluffs is less than 100 per 25 m, the fluff ends do not provide a soft touch and touch feeling when touched. If the number of fluffs exceeds 500 per 25 m, the touch becomes rough and the fluffs cling to each other, resulting in a poor contact feeling. Moreover, it is not preferable from the viewpoint of fiber strength, spinnability, and fabric quality.

本発明のポリエステル仮撚糸のマルチフィラメントにおける単フィラメント繊度の平均が0.5~1.5dtexであり、好ましくは0.6~1.3dtexである。単糸繊度の平均が0.5dtex未満の場合、単フィラメント繊度が細いため、単フィラメントの太細の繊維径差、および太部の長さが十分ではなく、織編物は微細に分散した自然な杢感とならない。さらに布帛にハリコシがなく、適度な柔らかさの織編物にはならず、毛羽によるソフトな肌触り・接触感も得られない。また単フィラメント繊度が1.5dtexを超える場合、単フィラメント繊度が太いため、単フィラメントの太細の繊維径差が大きく、また太部も長くなり、織編物は荒い杢調の布帛となる。さらに布帛は硬く、適度な柔らかさの織編物を得られない。 The average single filament fineness of the multifilaments of the polyester false twist yarn of the present invention is 0.5 to 1.5 dtex, preferably 0.6 to 1.3 dtex. If the average single filament fineness is less than 0.5 dtex, the single filament fineness is thin, so the difference in fiber diameter between thick and thin single filaments and the length of the thick portion of the single filament are not sufficient, and the woven or knitted fabric is finely dispersed and natural. It does not give a heathered feeling. Furthermore, the fabric does not have stiffness, and the woven or knitted fabric does not have appropriate softness, and soft touch and touch feeling due to fluff cannot be obtained. When the single filament fineness exceeds 1.5 dtex, the single filament fineness is large, so that the difference in fiber diameter between thick and thin single filaments is large, and the thick portion of the single filament becomes long, resulting in a rough heathered fabric. Furthermore, the fabric is hard and a woven or knitted fabric with appropriate softness cannot be obtained.

本発明のポリエステル仮撚糸におけるマルチフィラメント全体の長手繊度ムラが1.3~2.0%であり、好ましくは1.4~1.9%である。長手繊度ムラが1.3%未満の場合、マルチフィラメント内で、相対的に単フィラメントの太部が多く集合した領域が不足しており、織編物は微細に分散した自然な杢感とならない。また2.0%を超える場合、マルチフィラメント内で相対的に単フィラメントの太部が集合した領域が過多となった状態であり、織編物は荒い杢調の布帛となる。 The longitudinal fineness unevenness of the entire multifilament in the polyester false twist yarn of the present invention is 1.3 to 2.0%, preferably 1.4 to 1.9%. If the longitudinal fineness unevenness is less than 1.3%, the region in which relatively many single filament thick parts are aggregated is insufficient in the multifilament, and the woven or knitted fabric does not have a finely dispersed natural heathered feel. On the other hand, if it exceeds 2.0%, the area in which the thick portions of the single filaments are relatively aggregated in the multifilament becomes excessive, and the woven or knitted fabric becomes a rough heathered fabric.

本発明のポリエステル仮撚糸におけるマルチフィラメントの伸縮復元率CRが15%以上であり、好ましくは20%以上である。マルチフィラメントの伸縮復元率CRが15%未満の場合、捲縮性がなく、肌と繊維の接触面積が多くなるためヌメリ感を感じ、ソフトな肌触り・接触感も得られない。さらに繊維の曲げ剛性高くなることで布帛は硬く、適度な柔らかさの織編物を得られない。 The stretch recovery rate CR of the multifilament in the polyester false twist yarn of the present invention is 15% or more, preferably 20% or more. When the stretch recovery rate CR of the multifilament is less than 15%, there is no crimping property, and the contact area between the skin and the fiber increases, giving a slimy feel, and soft touch and contact feeling cannot be obtained. Furthermore, the flexural rigidity of the fiber is increased, making the fabric hard and making it impossible to obtain a woven or knitted fabric with appropriate softness.

本発明のポリエステル仮撚糸の好ましい態様によれば、毛羽の長さの平均が1.0mm以上である。これにより毛羽によるソフトな肌触り・接触感が向上し、特にインナー用途など使用範囲が格段に広がる。さらに好ましくは1.5mm以上である。 According to a preferred embodiment of the polyester false twisted yarn of the present invention, the average length of fluff is 1.0 mm or more. As a result, the fluff improves the soft touch and touch feeling, and the range of use, especially for innerwear, is greatly expanded. More preferably, it is 1.5 mm or more.

本発明のポリエステル仮撚糸の好ましい態様によれば、酸化チタンを0.2~3.0%含有する。これにより単フィラメント側面に酸化チタン粒子からくる凹凸で、摩擦が低くなり、一段とソフトな肌触り・接触感が向上する。さらに好ましくは0.3~2.5%である。 According to a preferred embodiment of the polyester false twist yarn of the present invention, it contains 0.2 to 3.0% of titanium oxide. As a result, the unevenness caused by the titanium oxide particles on the side surface of the single filament reduces friction and further improves the soft touch and contact feeling. More preferably 0.3 to 2.5%.

本発明のポリエステル仮撚糸の好ましい態様によれば、仮撚糸の断面扁平度が1.5~2.5である。これにより繊維の曲げ剛性を抑えることができ、布帛のハリコシを持ちつつも、ドレープ性も良好といった布帛の柔らかさが格段に良好な織編物となる。さらに好ましくは1.7~2.2である。断面扁平度は単フィラメントの横断面にて、長径a/短径b(図2)として算出する。楕円型の断面(図2-3)では、長径aは断面の最大径であり、短径bはaに対して直角を保ちつつ、かつ径が最大である長さである。また1個の凹部をもつ断面(図2-4)では、長径aは断面の最大径であり、短径bはaに対して直角を保ちつつ、かつ径が最大である長さb1と、aに対して直角を保ちつつ、凹部頂点を通る径b2の平均値である。さらに2個の凹部をもつ断面(図2-5)では、長径aは断面の最大径であり、短径bはaに対して直角を保ちつつ、かつ径が最大である長さb1と、aに対して直角を保ちつつ、凹部頂点を通る径b2、およびb3の平均値である。よってn個の凹部を持つ断面についても、同様にbnとして断面扁平度を算出する。 According to a preferred embodiment of the polyester false twisted yarn of the present invention, the cross-sectional flatness of the false twisted yarn is 1.5 to 2.5. As a result, the bending rigidity of the fibers can be suppressed, and a woven or knitted fabric having remarkably good softness, such as good drapeability, is obtained while maintaining the stiffness of the fabric. It is more preferably 1.7 to 2.2. The cross-sectional flatness is calculated as major axis a/minor axis b (Fig. 2) in the cross section of the single filament. In an elliptical cross section (FIGS. 2-3), the major axis a is the largest diameter of the cross section and the minor axis b is the length of the largest diameter while remaining perpendicular to a. In the cross section having one recess (FIG. 2-4), the major axis a is the maximum diameter of the cross section, the minor axis b is perpendicular to a, and the length b1 at which the diameter is the maximum, It is the average value of the diameter b2 passing through the apex of the recess while maintaining a right angle with respect to a. Furthermore, in the cross section having two recesses (FIG. 2-5), the major axis a is the maximum diameter of the cross section, the minor axis b is perpendicular to a, and the length b1 at which the diameter is the maximum, It is the average value of the diameters b2 and b3 passing through the apex of the recess while maintaining a right angle with respect to a. Therefore, the cross-sectional flatness is similarly calculated as bn for a cross-section having n concave portions.

次に、本発明のポリエステル仮撚糸の製造方法を記載する。本発明に用いる原料ポリマーはポリエステルであることが好ましく、特に機械的性質と布帛風合いの観点から、ポリエチレンテレフタレートが好適に使用できる。これらは常法により溶融紡糸を行うことで、部分配向未延伸糸(マルチフィラメント)を得ることができる。すなわち、部分配向未延伸糸は、原料ポリマーを好ましくは275℃~300℃の温度で溶融し、紡糸口金から吐出し、糸条を形成させ、冷却風を吹き付けることによって糸条を冷却して、収束した後、油剤と交絡を付与し、巻取った巻取ったパッケージとすることができる。部分配向未延伸糸は、一般的に紡速2000m/分~4000m/分程度の速度条件で紡糸、巻取られたパッケージのことであり、ポリマー分子鎖の配向が進んでいる部分とそうでない部分が混在した状態ではなく、糸条長手方向で均一な分子鎖の配向状態である。また多数の単フィラメントからなるマルチフィラメントであり総繊度、および単フィラメント数は任意に採用できるが、単フィラメントの繊度バラツキである単フィラメント繊度CV%は0.1以下とするのが適切である。部分配向未延伸糸の単フィラメント繊度CV%が0.1以下として、一部の単フィラメント繊度が細い、もしくは一部の単フィラメント繊度が太いということにならず、織編物は微細に分散した自然な杢感とできる。さらには本発明の目的を逸脱しない範囲で、酸化チタンなど第2成分や第3成分を添加させてもよく、ポリマー分子鎖レベルでは第2、第3のポリマーを共重合させてもよい。 Next, a method for producing the polyester false twisted yarn of the present invention will be described. The raw material polymer used in the present invention is preferably polyester, and polyethylene terephthalate can be preferably used from the viewpoint of mechanical properties and fabric texture. A partially oriented undrawn yarn (multifilament) can be obtained by melt-spinning these by a conventional method. That is, the partially oriented undrawn yarn is obtained by melting a raw material polymer at a temperature of preferably 275° C. to 300° C., discharging it from a spinneret to form a yarn, and cooling the yarn by blowing cooling air. After convergence, oil and entanglement can be applied to form a wound package. Partially oriented undrawn yarn is generally a package spun and wound at a spinning speed of about 2000 m/min to 4000 m/min. It is not a mixed state, but a state in which the molecular chains are uniformly oriented in the longitudinal direction of the yarn. The multifilament is composed of a large number of single filaments, and the total fineness and the number of single filaments can be arbitrarily adopted. If the single filament fineness CV% of the partially oriented undrawn yarn is set to 0.1 or less, the single filament fineness of some of the single filaments will not be thin or the fineness of some single filaments will be thick, and the woven or knitted fabric will have a finely dispersed natural It can be done with a heathered feeling. Further, a second component such as titanium oxide or a third component may be added within the scope of the present invention, and the second and third polymers may be copolymerized at the polymer molecular chain level.

次いで、部分配向未延伸糸を延伸仮撚加工することにより、本発明のポリエステル仮撚糸を得ることができる。図3は、本発明のポリエステル仮撚糸の加工工程を説明するための概略図である。本発明のポリエステル仮撚糸の加工は、延伸ピン(図3-8)を用いて部分配向未延伸糸を1回目の延伸を施すことで、マルチフィラメント単フィラメントは均一に延伸されないため、未延伸部が単フィラメントの太部となって残留し、マルチフィラメントを構成する全フィラメントの糸条長手にランダムに発現する。その後、2回目の延伸と同時に仮撚加工を施すことで、前記した単フィラメントの太部が加撚・解撚により破断されて毛羽が発生し、本天然素材調の仮撚糸を得ることができる。 Next, the polyester false twisted yarn of the present invention can be obtained by drawing and false twisting the partially oriented undrawn yarn. FIG. 3 is a schematic diagram for explaining the processing steps of the polyester false twisted yarn of the present invention. The processing of the polyester false twisted yarn of the present invention is performed by first drawing the partially oriented undrawn yarn using a drawing pin (Fig. 3-8). remains in the thick portion of the single filament, and appears randomly along the length of all the filaments that make up the multifilament. Thereafter, by subjecting the yarn to false twisting at the same time as the second drawing, the thick portion of the single filament is broken by twisting and untwisting to generate fluff, and a false twisted yarn with a natural texture can be obtained. .

1回目の延伸は、部分配向未延伸糸の定応力領域(図4-19)の90%以下で延伸することが適切であり、残留する単フィラメントの太部の個数が安定し、十分な毛羽個数を発現できる。さらに延伸ピンの位置を、延伸ピンと1フィードローラー(以下1FR)(図3-9)間の糸条長さが15~150mmの範囲とすることにより、単フィラメントの太部の長さが適切となり、前記したような微細に分散した自然な杢感の編織物が得られる。また太細の分子配向差も確保でき、杢感を発現する。2回目の延伸にて、同時仮撚を施すことで、糸条は加熱されながら延伸・加撚され、その後、解撚されて毛羽が発生、嵩高な風合いの天然素材調の仮撚糸となる。 In the first drawing, it is appropriate to draw at 90% or less of the constant stress region (Fig. 4-19) of the partially oriented undrawn yarn, the number of thick portions of the remaining single filaments is stabilized, and sufficient fluff is obtained. number can be expressed. Furthermore, the length of the thick part of the single filament becomes appropriate by setting the position of the drawing pin so that the yarn length between the drawing pin and 1 feed roller (hereinafter referred to as 1FR) (Fig. 3-9) is in the range of 15 to 150 mm. , a knitted or woven fabric having a finely dispersed, natural heathered feel as described above can be obtained. In addition, a thick and thin molecular orientation difference can be secured, and a heathered feeling is expressed. By applying simultaneous false twisting in the second drawing, the yarn is drawn and twisted while being heated, and then untwisted to generate fluff and become a natural material-like false twisted yarn with a bulky texture.

具体的な製造方法の一例として、延伸ピンの温度は毛羽発生個数の観点で55℃~85℃が好ましい。仮撚時の第1ヒーターの温度は、毛羽の発生個数、操業性の観点から、150℃~230℃の範囲が好ましい。仮撚加工は、回転型フリクションディスク(図3-12)に糸条を接触させて撚りを掛ける。フリクションディスクの直上の加撚張力T1、フリクションディスク出口の解撚張力T2、および加工張力比をT2/T1とした場合、加工張力比は1.5以上であることが好ましい。通常、フリクションディスクでの仮撚加工では、加工張力比は0.5~1.5近傍での加工が常法であり、本発明のポリエステル仮撚糸糸の製造方法は積極的に加工張力比を高くして仮撚加工する方法が、毛羽の発生個数の観点で好適である。2回目の延伸の際の延伸倍率は、部分配向未延伸糸の配向程度、毛羽の発生個数、仮撚糸の目標タフネスに左右され、任意の値を採用できる。風合い変化の観点で、マルチフィラメントの残留トルクを抑えるため2FR(図3-13)と3FR(図3-15)間にて5~15%程度のオーバーフィード率で第2ヒーター(図3-14)により、糸条を加熱する方法も任意に採用できる。織編の仮撚糸の強度と高次通過性の観点から、糸条に対して圧縮エアーにより交絡(図3-16)を付与する方法を採用でき、交絡度は100~250の範囲が好ましい。 As an example of a specific manufacturing method, the temperature of the drawing pin is preferably 55° C. to 85° C. from the viewpoint of the number of fluffs generated. The temperature of the first heater during false twisting is preferably in the range of 150° C. to 230° C. from the viewpoint of the number of fluffs generated and workability. In false twisting, the yarn is twisted by bringing it into contact with a rotating friction disk (Fig. 3-12). When the twisting tension T1 directly above the friction disk, the untwisting tension T2 at the exit of the friction disk, and the working tension ratio are T2/T1, the working tension ratio is preferably 1.5 or more. Generally, in false twisting with a friction disk, processing at a processing tension ratio in the vicinity of 0.5 to 1.5 is a common method, and the method for producing a polyester false twist yarn of the present invention positively increases the processing tension ratio. A method of false twisting at a higher height is preferable from the viewpoint of the number of fluffs generated. The draw ratio in the second draw depends on the degree of orientation of the partially oriented undrawn yarn, the number of fluffs generated, and the target toughness of the false twisted yarn, and any value can be adopted. From the viewpoint of texture change, the second heater (Fig. 3-14 ), a method of heating the yarn can also be arbitrarily adopted. From the viewpoint of the strength and high-order passability of the false twisted yarn for weaving and knitting, a method of imparting entanglement (Fig. 3-16) to the yarn with compressed air can be employed, and the degree of entanglement is preferably in the range of 100 to 250.

次に、実施例により本発明のポリエステル仮撚糸について、詳細に説明する。実施例と比較例中に使用した各測定値と評価は、次の測定法により求めた。 Next, the polyester false twist yarn of the present invention will be described in detail with reference to examples. Each measured value and evaluation used in Examples and Comparative Examples were determined by the following measurement methods.

<毛羽の個数>
本発明の仮撚糸を解舒速度400m/分、試料長400m(測定時間1分)にて走行させ、東レエンジニアリング社製S型の毛羽検知器DT-104モデルを用いて走行糸と毛羽検知センサーとの距離は1.5mmにて毛羽検知数を測定、以下の式により25mあたりの毛羽の個数を算出した。
毛羽の個数=検知毛羽数/400×25 。
<Number of fluff>
The false-twisted yarn of the present invention is run at an unwinding speed of 400 m/min and a sample length of 400 m (measurement time: 1 minute). The number of fluffs detected was measured at a distance of 1.5 mm, and the number of fluffs per 25 m was calculated according to the following formula.
Number of fluff=number of detected fluff/400×25.

<マルチフィラメントの単フィラメント繊度の平均>
本発明の仮撚糸を解舒張力1/11.1g/dtexで枠周1.0mの検尺機で100回巻き、天秤を用いて重量を測定し、100倍することにより得られた重量をマルチフィラメントの総繊度とした。得られた総繊度を構成する単フィラメント数で割り返し、マルチフィラメントの単フィラメント繊度の平均を算出した。構成する単フィラメント数は部分配向未延伸糸の単フィラメント数を数えて確認する。
<Average single filament fineness of multifilament>
The false-twisted yarn of the present invention is wound 100 times with an unwinding tension of 1/11.1 g/dtex using a measuring machine with a frame circumference of 1.0 m, the weight is measured using a balance, and the weight obtained by multiplying by 100 is calculated. It was taken as the total fineness of the multifilament. The obtained total fineness was divided by the number of single filaments constituting the multifilament to calculate the average single filament fineness of the multifilaments. The number of constituent monofilaments is confirmed by counting the number of monofilaments of the partially oriented undrawn yarn.

<マルチフィラメントの長手繊度ムラ>
本発明の仮撚糸をZELLWEGER USTER社製 USTER TESTER UT-4を使用し、解舒速度25m/分、加撚方向をS撚り4000T/m、測定時間3分の条件にて測定し、U%ノーマルの出力結果をマルチフィラメントの長手繊度ムラとした。
<Longitudinal fineness unevenness of multifilament>
Using USTER TESTER UT-4 manufactured by ZELLWEGER USTER, the false twisted yarn of the present invention was measured under the conditions of an unwinding speed of 25 m / min, an S twist of 4000 T / m in the twisting direction, and a measurement time of 3 minutes. The output result of was taken as the longitudinal fineness unevenness of the multifilament.

<伸縮復元率CR>
仮撚糸を周長1.0mの検尺機にて10回巻きしてカセ取りした後、このカセに繊度×0.002×巻取回数×2/1.111gの初加重をかけて、90℃×20分間熱水処理し、脱水後12時間以上放置する。放置後のカセに初荷重と繊度×0.1×巻取回数×2/1.111gの測定加重をかけて水中に垂下し2分間放置する。放置したカセの長さを測り、Lとする。さらに、測定荷重を除き初荷重だけにした状態で3分間放置し、カセの長さを測り、L1とする。次式により、伸縮復元率CRを求めた。
伸縮復元率CR(%)={(L-L1)/L}×100 。
<Stretching recovery rate CR>
After winding the false twisted yarn 10 times with a measuring machine having a circumference of 1.0 m and removing the skein, the skein was subjected to an initial weight of fineness x 0.002 x number of windings x 2/1.111 g, and 90 ℃×20 minutes, and left for 12 hours or more after dehydration. The skein after standing is subjected to a measurement load of initial load and fineness x 0.1 x number of windings x 2/1.111 g, suspended in water and left for 2 minutes. Measure the length of the left skein and call it L. After removing the measurement load and applying only the initial load, leave the sample for 3 minutes. The expansion/contraction recovery rate CR was determined by the following formula.
Stretch recovery rate CR (%)={(L-L1)/L}×100.

<毛羽の長さ1.0mm以上の割合>
本発明の仮撚糸をサンプリングして、キーエンス社製マイクロスコープVHX-5000にて拡大視察し、毛羽の長さを測定する。切断された単フィラメントの毛羽先端から、画像上のマルチフィラメントとの混繊部までを測定した。画像上での湾曲した毛羽に対しては、多点間距離の測定モードにて、10個以上の点を画像上の毛羽と照合させて測定した。20個/サンプルの毛羽を測定した平均値を算出した。
<Percentage of fluff length 1.0 mm or more>
The false twisted yarn of the present invention is sampled, enlarged and inspected with a microscope VHX-5000 manufactured by Keyence Corporation, and the length of fluff is measured. Measurements were taken from the fluff tip of the cut single filament to the mixed filament portion with the multifilament on the image. The curved fluff on the image was measured by comparing 10 or more points with the fluff on the image in the multi-point distance measurement mode. An average value of 20 fluffs/sample was calculated.

<酸化チタン含有量>
本発明の仮撚糸5gをサンプリングし、磁性ルツボに入れ、電気炉を用いて1000℃で灰化し、灼熱残分を無機粒子として重量%で表し酸化チタンの含有量とした。
<Titanium oxide content>
A sample of 5 g of the false twist yarn of the present invention was placed in a magnetic crucible and incinerated at 1000° C. using an electric furnace.

<仮撚糸の断面扁平度>
パラフィン、ステアリン酸、エチルセルロースからなる包理剤を溶解し、本発明の仮撚糸を導入後、室温放置により固化させ、包理剤中のオーバー解撚部を切断したものをCCDカメラにて撮影して視察した。マルチフィラメントを構成する全単フィラメントの任意の50%を選定し、短径に対する長径の長さを断面扁平度として算出した。
断面扁平度=長径a/短径b
ただし楕円型の断面(図2-3)では、長径aは断面の最大径であり、短径bはaに対して直角を保ちつつ、かつ径が最大である長さである。
<Cross-Sectional Flatness of False Twisted Yarn>
An embedding agent consisting of paraffin, stearic acid, and ethyl cellulose was dissolved, and after the false twisted yarn of the present invention was introduced, it was allowed to stand at room temperature to solidify. I inspected it. Arbitrary 50% of all single filaments constituting the multifilament were selected, and the length of the major axis to the minor axis was calculated as the cross-sectional flatness.
Cross-sectional flatness = major axis a/minor axis b
However, in the elliptical cross section (FIGS. 2-3), the major axis a is the maximum diameter of the cross section, and the minor axis b is the length of the maximum diameter while maintaining a right angle to a.

また1個の凹部をもつ断面(図2-4)では、長径aは断面の最大径であり、短径bはaに対して直角を保ちつつ、かつ径が最大である長さb1と、aに対して直角を保ちつつ、凹部頂点を通る径b2の平均値である。 In the cross section having one recess (FIG. 2-4), the major axis a is the maximum diameter of the cross section, the minor axis b is perpendicular to a, and the length b1 at which the diameter is the maximum, It is the average value of the diameter b2 passing through the apex of the recess while maintaining a right angle with respect to a.

さらに2個の凹部をもつ断面(図2-5)では、長径aは断面の最大径であり、短径bはaに対して直角を保ちつつ、かつ径が最大である長さb1と、aに対して直角を保ちつつ、凹部頂点を通る径b2、およびb3の平均値である。 Furthermore, in the cross section having two recesses (FIG. 2-5), the major axis a is the maximum diameter of the cross section, the minor axis b is perpendicular to a, and the length b1 at which the diameter is the maximum, It is the average value of the diameters b2 and b3 passing through the apex of the recess while maintaining a right angle with respect to a.

よってn個の凹部を持つ断面についても、同様にbnとして断面扁平度を算出する。 Therefore, the cross-sectional flatness is similarly calculated as bn for a cross-section having n concave portions.

<ソフトな肌触り・接触感、自然な杢感、布帛の柔らかさ>
本発明の仮撚糸を使用した織物を作製し、ソフトな肌触り・接触感、自然な杢感、布帛の柔らかさについて、官能評価を実施した。ブランクとして比較例10の仮撚糸にて作製した織物を用い、10人のパネラーに10点満点で採点してもらい以下の4段階で評価し、○以上を合格とした。
○○:10人のパネラーの平均値が9点以上
○ :10人のパネラーの平均値が7点以上9点未満
△ :10人のパネラーの平均値が5点以上7点未満
× :10人のパネラーの平均値が5点未満 。
<Soft touch/contact feeling, natural heathered feeling, softness of fabric>
A woven fabric was produced using the false twisted yarn of the present invention, and a sensory evaluation was carried out with respect to the soft feel and contact feeling, the natural heathered feeling, and the softness of the fabric. As a blank, a woven fabric made from the false twisted yarn of Comparative Example 10 was used, and 10 panelists were asked to rate it on a scale of 1 to 10, and it was evaluated in the following four stages.
○○: The average value of 10 panelists is 9 points or more ○: The average value of 10 panelists is 7 points or more and less than 9 points △: The average value of 10 panelists is 5 points or more and less than 7 points ×: 10 people of panelists with an average score of less than 5 points.

(実施例1)
72ホール、孔形状は丸の紡糸口金を使用して、紡糸速度3100m/分で溶融紡糸して140dtex-72フィラメントの酸化チタン量0.3wt%、単フィラメントCV%0.04のポリエチレンテレフタレート部分配向未延伸糸を得た。仮撚加工において、表面温度80℃の延伸ピンを1FRとの距離55mmに設置し、1500mmの接触型加熱体(第1ヒーター)、25℃の接触型冷却装置、ポリウレタン製のフリクションディスクが2枚構成の仮撚装置を用いて、第1ヒーター温度を226℃、1回目の延伸倍率を1.229、2回目の延伸倍率を1.347、糸条走行速度に対するフリクションディスク表面の速度比を1.49とした条件にて延伸仮撚を実施し、繊度87dtexのポリエステル仮撚糸を得た。得られた仮撚糸の毛羽の個数は388個/25m、マルチフィラメントの単フィラメント繊度の平均は1.2dtex、マルチフィラメントの長手繊度ムラは1.5%、マルチフィラメントの伸縮復元率CRは29%であった。毛羽の長さ平均は1.7mmであり、断面扁平度は1.7であった。これらを用いて製作した織物は、ソフトな肌触り・接触感が良好で、自然な杢感、適度な柔らかさの織物を得た。結果を表1に示す。
(Example 1)
Using a spinneret with 72 holes and a round hole shape, melt-spun at a spinning speed of 3100 m/min to obtain a 140 dtex-72 filament with a titanium oxide content of 0.3 wt% and a single filament CV% of 0.04 polyethylene terephthalate partially oriented. An undrawn yarn was obtained. In the false twisting process, a drawing pin with a surface temperature of 80°C is placed at a distance of 55 mm from 1FR, a contact heating element (first heater) of 1500 mm, a contact cooling device of 25°C, and two polyurethane friction discs. Using a false twisting device with the above configuration, the first heater temperature is 226° C., the first draw ratio is 1.229, the second draw ratio is 1.347, and the speed ratio of the friction disk surface to the yarn running speed is 1. Draw false twisting was carried out under the condition of 0.49 to obtain a polyester false twisted yarn having a fineness of 87 dtex. The number of fluffs in the obtained false-twisted yarn was 388 pieces/25 m, the average single filament fineness of the multifilament was 1.2 dtex, the longitudinal fineness unevenness of the multifilament was 1.5%, and the stretch recovery rate CR of the multifilament was 29%. Met. The fluff had an average length of 1.7 mm and a cross-sectional flatness of 1.7. The woven fabrics produced using these fabrics had a good soft feel and good contact feeling, and had a natural heathered feel and moderate softness. Table 1 shows the results.

(実施例2)
仮撚加工時の糸条走行速度に対するフリクションディスク表面の速度比を1.39としたこと以外は実施例1と同様にして延伸仮撚加工をした結果、得られた仮撚糸の毛羽の個数は498個/25m、マルチフィラメントの単フィラメント繊度の平均は1.2dtex、マルチフィラメントの長手繊度ムラは1.6%、マルチフィラメントの伸縮復元率CRは26%であった。毛羽の長さ平均は2.0mmであり、断面扁平度は1.6であった。これらを用いて製作した織物は、ソフトな肌触り・接触感があり、自然な杢感、適度な柔らかさの織物を得た。結果を表1に示す。
(Example 2)
Draw false twisting was carried out in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the speed ratio of the friction disk surface to the running speed of the yarn during false twisting was set to 1.39. 498 pieces/25 m, the average single filament fineness of the multifilament was 1.2 dtex, the longitudinal fineness unevenness of the multifilament was 1.6%, and the stretch recovery rate CR of the multifilament was 26%. The fluff had an average length of 2.0 mm and a cross-sectional flatness of 1.6. The woven fabrics produced using these materials had a soft texture and touch feeling, and had a natural heathered feel and moderate softness. Table 1 shows the results.

(実施例3)
仮撚加工時の2回目の延伸倍率を1.266としたこと以外は実施例1と同様にして延伸仮撚加工をした結果、得られた仮撚糸の毛羽の個数は108個/25m、マルチフィラメントの単フィラメント繊度の平均は1.2dtex、マルチフィラメントの長手繊度ムラは1.5%、マルチフィラメントの伸縮復元率CRは33%であった。毛羽の長さ平均は1.5mmであり、断面扁平度は1.7であった。これらを用いて製作した織物は、ソフトな肌触り・接触感があり、自然な杢感、適度な柔らかさの織物を得た。結果を表1に示す。
(Example 3)
Draw false twisting was carried out in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the second draw ratio during false twisting was set to 1.266. The average single filament fineness of the filaments was 1.2 dtex, the longitudinal fineness unevenness of the multifilament was 1.5%, and the stretch recovery rate CR of the multifilament was 33%. The fluff had an average length of 1.5 mm and a cross-sectional flatness of 1.7. The woven fabrics produced using these materials had a soft texture and touch feeling, and had a natural heathered feel and moderate softness. Table 1 shows the results.

(実施例4)
紡糸時のポリマー吐出量を変更し、単フィラメントCV%0.02のポリエチレンテレフタレート部分配向未延伸糸としたこと以外は実施例1と同様にして延伸仮撚加工をした結果、得られた仮撚糸の毛羽の個数は220個/25m、マルチフィラメントの単フィラメント繊度の平均は1.4dtex、マルチフィラメントの長手繊度ムラは1.7%、マルチフィラメントの伸縮復元率CRは29%であった。毛羽の長さ平均は1.7mmであり、断面扁平度は1.7であった。これらを用いて製作した織物は、ソフトな肌触り・接触感が良好で、自然な杢感、適度な柔らかさの織物を得た。結果を表1に示す。
(Example 4)
False twisted yarn obtained as a result of draw false twisting in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the amount of polymer discharged during spinning was changed and a polyethylene terephthalate partially oriented undrawn yarn of single filament CV% 0.02 was used. The number of fluffs was 220 pieces/25 m, the average single filament fineness of the multifilament was 1.4 dtex, the longitudinal fineness unevenness of the multifilament was 1.7%, and the stretch recovery rate CR of the multifilament was 29%. The fluff had an average length of 1.7 mm and a cross-sectional flatness of 1.7. The woven fabrics produced using these fabrics had a good soft feel and good contact feeling, and had a natural heathered feel and moderate softness. Table 1 shows the results.

(実施例5)
紡糸時のポリマー吐出量と96ホールの紡糸口金に変更し、単フィラメントCV%0.08のポリエチレンテレフタレート部分配向未延伸糸としたこと以外は実施例1と同様にして延伸仮撚加工をした結果、得られた仮撚糸の毛羽の個数は460個/25m、マルチフィラメントの単フィラメント繊度の平均は0.6dtex、マルチフィラメントの長手繊度ムラは1.8%、マルチフィラメントの伸縮復元率CRは34%であった。毛羽の長さ平均は2.3mmであり、断面扁平度は1.6であった。これらを用いて製作した織物は、ソフトな肌触り・接触感があり、自然な杢感、適度な柔らかさの織物を得た。結果を表1に示す。
(Example 5)
Result of drawing false twisting in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the amount of polymer discharged during spinning and the spinneret of 96 holes were changed, and a polyethylene terephthalate partially oriented undrawn yarn with a single filament CV% of 0.08 was used. , The number of fluffs in the obtained false twisted yarn was 460/25 m, the average single filament fineness of the multifilament was 0.6 dtex, the longitudinal fineness unevenness of the multifilament was 1.8%, and the multifilament stretch recovery rate CR was 34. %Met. The fluff had an average length of 2.3 mm and a cross-sectional flatness of 1.6. The woven fabrics produced using these materials had a soft texture and touch feeling, and had a natural heathered feel and moderate softness. Table 1 shows the results.

(実施例6)
仮撚加工時の延伸ピン位置を1FRとの距離150mmに変更したこと以外は実施例1と同様にして延伸仮撚加工をした結果、得られた仮撚糸の毛羽の個数は353個/25m、マルチフィラメントの単フィラメント繊度の平均は1.2dtex、マルチフィラメントの長手繊度ムラは1.9%、マルチフィラメントの伸縮復元率CRは28%であった。毛羽の長さ平均は2.2mmであり、断面扁平度は1.7であった。これらを用いて製作した織物は、ソフトな肌触り・接触感が良好で、自然な杢感、適度な柔らかさの織物を得た。結果を表1に示す。
(Example 6)
As a result of drawing false twisting in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the drawing pin position during false twisting was changed to a distance of 150 mm from 1FR, the number of fluffs of the obtained false twisted yarn was 353/25 m. The average single filament fineness of the multifilament was 1.2 dtex, the longitudinal fineness unevenness of the multifilament was 1.9%, and the stretch recovery rate CR of the multifilament was 28%. The fluff had an average length of 2.2 mm and a cross-sectional flatness of 1.7. The woven fabrics produced using these fabrics had a good soft feel and good contact feeling, and had a natural heathered feel and moderate softness. Table 1 shows the results.

(実施例7)
仮撚加工時の延伸ピン位置を1FRとの距離20mmに変更したこと以外は実施例1と同様にして延伸仮撚加工をした結果、得られた仮撚糸の毛羽の個数は330個/25m、マルチフィラメントの単フィラメント繊度の平均は1.2dtex、マルチフィラメントの長手繊度ムラは1.3%、マルチフィラメントの伸縮復元率CRは27%であった。毛羽の長さ平均は1.2mmであり、断面扁平度は1.6であった。これらを用いて製作した織物は、ソフトな肌触り・接触感が良好な、自然な杢感、適度な柔らかさの織物を得た。結果を表1に示す。
(Example 7)
As a result of drawing false twisting in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the drawing pin position during false twisting was changed to a distance of 20 mm from 1FR, the number of fluffs in the obtained false twisted yarn was 330/25 m. The average single filament fineness of the multifilament was 1.2 dtex, the longitudinal fineness unevenness of the multifilament was 1.3%, and the stretch recovery rate CR of the multifilament was 27%. The fluff had an average length of 1.2 mm and a cross-sectional flatness of 1.6. The woven fabrics produced using these fabrics had a good soft touch and touch feeling, a natural heathered feeling, and moderate softness. Table 1 shows the results.

(実施例8)
仮撚加工時の糸条走行速度に対するフリクションディスク表面の速度比を1.33、第1ヒーター温度を195℃としたこと以外は実施例1と同様にして延伸仮撚加工をした結果、得られた仮撚糸の毛羽の個数は401個/25m、マルチフィラメントの単フィラメント繊度の平均は1.2dtex、マルチフィラメントの長手繊度ムラは1.5%、マルチフィラメントの伸縮復元率CRは16%であった。毛羽の長さ平均は1.9mmであり、断面扁平度は1.5であった。これらを用いて製作した織物は、ソフトな肌触り・接触感があり、自然な杢感、適度な柔らかさの織物を得た。結果を表1に示す。
(Example 8)
Draw false twisting was carried out in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the speed ratio of the friction disk surface to the running speed of the yarn during false twisting was 1.33, and the temperature of the first heater was 195°C. The number of fluffs of the false twisted yarn was 401/25m, the average single filament fineness of the multifilament was 1.2dtex, the longitudinal fineness unevenness of the multifilament was 1.5%, and the stretch recovery rate CR of the multifilament was 16%. rice field. The fluff had an average length of 1.9 mm and a cross-sectional flatness of 1.5. The woven fabrics produced using these materials had a soft texture and touch feeling, and had a natural heathered feel and moderate softness. Table 1 shows the results.

(実施例9)
仮撚加工時の延伸ピン位置を1FRとの距離20mm、第1ヒーター温度を236℃としたこと以外は実施例1と同様にして延伸仮撚加工をした結果、得られた仮撚糸の毛羽の個数は300個/25m、マルチフィラメントの単フィラメント繊度の平均は1.2dtex、マルチフィラメントの長手繊度ムラは1.5%、マルチフィラメントの伸縮復元率CRは30%であった。毛羽の長さ平均は1.0mmであり、断面扁平度は1.7であった。これらを用いて製作した織物は、ソフトな肌触り・接触感があり、自然な杢感、適度な柔らかさの織物を得た。結果を表1に示す。
(Example 9)
Draw false twisting was carried out in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the distance between the drawing pin during false twisting and 1FR was set to 20 mm, and the temperature of the first heater was set to 236°C. The number was 300 pieces/25 m, the average single filament fineness of the multifilament was 1.2 dtex, the longitudinal fineness unevenness of the multifilament was 1.5%, and the stretch recovery rate CR of the multifilament was 30%. The fluff had an average length of 1.0 mm and a cross-sectional flatness of 1.7. The woven fabrics produced using these materials had a soft texture and touch feeling, and had a natural heathered feel and moderate softness. Table 1 shows the results.

(実施例10)
紡糸時のポリマーに含有する酸化チタン量を3.0wt%に変更し、単フィラメントCV%0.09のポリエチレンテレフタレート部分配向未延伸糸としたこと以外は実施例1と同様にして延伸仮撚加工をした結果、得られた仮撚糸の毛羽の個数は135個/25m、マルチフィラメントの単フィラメント繊度の平均は1.2dtex、マルチフィラメントの長手繊度ムラは1.5%、マルチフィラメントの伸縮復元率CRは28%であった。毛羽の長さ平均は2.0mmであり、断面扁平度は1.6であった。これらを用いて製作した織物は、ソフトな肌触り・接触感があり、自然な杢感、適度な柔らかさの織物を得た。結果を表1に示す。
(Example 10)
Draw false twisting was performed in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the amount of titanium oxide contained in the polymer during spinning was changed to 3.0 wt%, and a polyethylene terephthalate partially oriented undrawn yarn with a single filament CV% of 0.09 was used. As a result, the number of fluffs in the false twisted yarn obtained was 135 / 25 m, the average single filament fineness of the multifilament was 1.2 dtex, the longitudinal fineness unevenness of the multifilament was 1.5%, and the stretch recovery rate of the multifilament was CR was 28%. The fluff had an average length of 2.0 mm and a cross-sectional flatness of 1.6. The woven fabrics produced using these materials had a soft texture and touch feeling, and had a natural heathered feel and moderate softness. Table 1 shows the results.

(実施例11)
紡糸時のポリマーに含有する酸化チタン量を0.2wt%に変更したこと以外は実施例1と同様にして延伸仮撚加工をした結果、得られた仮撚糸の毛羽の個数は450個/25m、マルチフィラメントの単フィラメント繊度の平均は1.2dtex、マルチフィラメントの長手繊度ムラは1.6%、マルチフィラメントの伸縮復元率CRは31%であった。毛羽の長さ平均は2.2mmであり、断面扁平度は1.6であった。これらを用いて製作した織物は、ソフトな肌触り・接触感があり、自然な杢感、適度な柔らかさの織物を得た。結果を表1に示す。
(Example 11)
Draw false twisting was carried out in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the amount of titanium oxide contained in the polymer during spinning was changed to 0.2 wt%. , the average single filament fineness of the multifilament was 1.2 dtex, the longitudinal fineness unevenness of the multifilament was 1.6%, and the stretch recovery rate CR of the multifilament was 31%. The fluff had an average length of 2.2 mm and a cross-sectional flatness of 1.6. The woven fabrics produced using these materials had a soft texture and touch feeling, and had a natural heathered feel and moderate softness. Table 1 shows the results.

(実施例12)
紡糸時の紡糸口金の孔形状を扁平形に変更し、単フィラメントCV%0.09のポリエチレンテレフタレート部分配向未延伸糸としたこと以外は実施例1と同様にして延伸仮撚加工をした結果、得られた仮撚糸の毛羽の個数は362個/25m、マルチフィラメントの単フィラメント繊度の平均は1.2dtex、マルチフィラメントの長手繊度ムラは1.7%、マルチフィラメントの伸縮復元率CRは18%であった。毛羽の長さ平均は2.1mmであり、断面扁平度は2.4であった。これらを用いて製作した織物は、ソフトな肌触り・接触感が良好な、自然な杢感、適度な柔らかさの織物を得た。結果を表1に示す。
(Example 12)
Draw false twisting was carried out in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the hole shape of the spinneret at the time of spinning was changed to a flat shape, and a polyethylene terephthalate partially oriented undrawn yarn of single filament CV% 0.09 was obtained. The number of fluffs in the obtained false twisted yarn was 362 pieces/25 m, the average single filament fineness of the multifilament was 1.2 dtex, the longitudinal fineness unevenness of the multifilament was 1.7%, and the stretch recovery rate CR of the multifilament was 18%. Met. The fluff had an average length of 2.1 mm and a cross-sectional flatness of 2.4. The woven fabrics produced using these fabrics had a good soft touch and touch feeling, a natural heathered feeling, and moderate softness. Table 1 shows the results.

Figure 0007259200000001
Figure 0007259200000001

(比較例1)
仮撚加工時の糸条走行速度に対するフリクションディスク表面の速度比を1.33としたこと以外は実施例1と同様にして延伸仮撚加工をした結果、得られた仮撚糸の毛羽の個数は550個/25m、マルチフィラメントの単フィラメント繊度の平均は1.2dtex、マルチフィラメントの長手繊度ムラは1.8%、マルチフィラメントの伸縮復元率CRは20%であった。毛羽の長さ平均は2.2mmであり、断面扁平度は1.6であった。これらを用いて製作した織物は、ソフトな肌触り・接触感が不足していた。結果を表2に示す。
(Comparative example 1)
Draw false twisting was carried out in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the speed ratio of the friction disk surface to the running speed of the yarn during false twisting was set to 1.33. 550 pieces/25 m, the average single filament fineness of the multifilament was 1.2 dtex, the longitudinal fineness unevenness of the multifilament was 1.8%, and the stretch recovery rate CR of the multifilament was 20%. The fluff had an average length of 2.2 mm and a cross-sectional flatness of 1.6. Textiles made from these fabrics lacked a soft feel and touch feeling. Table 2 shows the results.

(比較例2)
仮撚加工時の2回目の延伸倍率を1.210としたこと以外は実施例1と同様にして延伸仮撚加工をした結果、得られた仮撚糸の毛羽の個数は95個/25m、マルチフィラメントの単フィラメント繊度の平均は1.2dtex、マルチフィラメントの長手繊度ムラは1.4%、マルチフィラメントの伸縮復元率CRは33%であった。毛羽の長さ平均は1.4mmであり、断面扁平度は1.6であった。これらを用いて製作した織物は、ソフトな肌触り・接触感が感じられなかった。結果を表2に示す。
(Comparative example 2)
Draw false twisting was carried out in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the second draw ratio during false twisting was set to 1.210. The average single filament fineness of the filaments was 1.2 dtex, the longitudinal fineness unevenness of the multifilament was 1.4%, and the stretch recovery rate CR of the multifilament was 33%. The fluff had an average length of 1.4 mm and a cross-sectional flatness of 1.6. The woven fabrics produced using these materials did not have a soft feel or touch feeling. Table 2 shows the results.

(比較例3)
紡糸時のポリマー吐出量を変更し、単フィラメントCV%0.02のポリエチレンテレフタレート部分配向未延伸糸としたこと以外は実施例1と同様にして延伸仮撚加工をした結果、得られた仮撚糸の毛羽の個数は151個/25m、マルチフィラメントの単フィラメント繊度の平均は1.6dtex、マルチフィラメントの長手繊度ムラは1.7%、マルチフィラメントの伸縮復元率CRは29%であった。毛羽の長さ平均は1.7mmであり、断面扁平度は1.7であった。これらを用いて製作した織物は、杢感はなく、適度な柔らかさは不足していた。結果を表2に示す。
(Comparative Example 3)
False twisted yarn obtained as a result of drawing false twisting in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the amount of polymer discharged during spinning was changed and a polyethylene terephthalate partially oriented undrawn yarn of single filament CV% 0.02 was used. The number of fluffs was 151 pieces/25 m, the average single filament fineness of the multifilament was 1.6 dtex, the longitudinal fineness unevenness of the multifilament was 1.7%, and the stretch recovery rate CR of the multifilament was 29%. The fluff had an average length of 1.7 mm and a cross-sectional flatness of 1.7. The woven fabrics produced using these materials did not have a heathered feel and lacked appropriate softness. Table 2 shows the results.

(比較例4)
紡糸時のポリマー吐出量と96ホールの紡糸口金に変更し、単フィラメントCV%0.07のポリエチレンテレフタレート部分配向未延伸糸としたこと以外は実施例1と同様にして延伸仮撚加工をした結果、得られた仮撚糸の毛羽の個数は451個/25m、マルチフィラメントの単フィラメント繊度の平均は0.4dtex、マルチフィラメントの長手繊度ムラは1.8%、マルチフィラメントの伸縮復元率CRは35%であった。毛羽の長さ平均は2.8mmであり、断面扁平度は1.5であった。これらを用いて製作した織物は、ソフトな肌触り・接触感が不足しており、また杢感、適度な柔らかさも不足していた。結果を表2に示す。
(Comparative Example 4)
Result of drawing false twisting in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the amount of polymer discharged during spinning and the spinneret of 96 holes were changed, and a polyethylene terephthalate partially oriented undrawn yarn with a single filament CV% of 0.07 was used. , The number of fluffs of the obtained false twisted yarn was 451/25 m, the average single filament fineness of the multifilament was 0.4 dtex, the longitudinal fineness unevenness of the multifilament was 1.8%, and the multifilament stretch recovery rate CR was 35. %Met. The fluff had an average length of 2.8 mm and a cross-sectional flatness of 1.5. Textiles produced using these materials lacked soft touch and touch feeling, and also lacked heathered feel and moderate softness. Table 2 shows the results.

(比較例5)
仮撚加工時の延伸ピン位置を1FRとの距離180mmに変更したこと以外は実施例1と同様にして延伸仮撚加工をした結果、得られた仮撚糸の毛羽の個数は392個/25m、マルチフィラメントの単フィラメント繊度の平均は1.2dtex、マルチフィラメントの長手繊度ムラは2.2%、マルチフィラメントの伸縮復元率CRは29%であった。毛羽の長さ平均は2.6mmであり、断面扁平度は1.7であった。これらを用いて製作した織物は、杢感が不足していた。結果を表2に示す。
(Comparative Example 5)
As a result of drawing false twisting in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the drawing pin position during false twisting was changed to a distance of 180 mm from 1FR, the number of fluffs in the obtained false twisted yarn was 392/25 m. The average single filament fineness of the multifilament was 1.2 dtex, the longitudinal fineness unevenness of the multifilament was 2.2%, and the stretch recovery rate CR of the multifilament was 29%. The fluff had an average length of 2.6 mm and a cross-sectional flatness of 1.7. The woven fabrics produced using these lacked heathered feeling. Table 2 shows the results.

(比較例6)
仮撚加工時の延伸ピン位置を1FRとの距離10mmに変更したこと以外は実施例1と同様にして延伸仮撚加工をした結果、得られた仮撚糸の毛羽の個数は136個/25m、マルチフィラメントの単フィラメント繊度の平均は1.2dtex、マルチフィラメントの長手繊度ムラは1.2%、マルチフィラメントの伸縮復元率CRは30%であった。毛羽の長さ平均は1.1mmであり、断面扁平度は1.6であった。これらを用いて製作した織物は、杢感がなかった。結果を表2に示す。
(Comparative Example 6)
As a result of drawing false twisting in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the drawing pin position during false twisting was changed to a distance of 10 mm from 1FR, the number of fluffs in the obtained false twisted yarn was 136/25 m. The average single filament fineness of the multifilament was 1.2 dtex, the longitudinal fineness unevenness of the multifilament was 1.2%, and the stretch recovery rate CR of the multifilament was 30%. The fluff had an average length of 1.1 mm and a cross-sectional flatness of 1.6. Fabrics produced using these materials did not have a heathered appearance. Table 2 shows the results.

(比較例7)
仮撚加工時の糸条走行速度に対するフリクションディスク表面の速度比を1.33、第1ヒーター温度を180℃としたこと以外は実施例1と同様にして延伸仮撚加工をした結果、得られた仮撚糸の毛羽の個数は366個/25m、マルチフィラメントの単フィラメント繊度の平均は1.2dtex、マルチフィラメントの長手繊度ムラは1.5%、マルチフィラメントの伸縮復元率CRは14%であった。毛羽の長さ平均は2.3mmであり、断面扁平度は1.4であった。これらを用いて製作した織物は、ソフトな肌触り・接触感が不足しており、適度な柔らかさも不足していた。結果を表2に示す。
(Comparative Example 7)
Draw false twisting was carried out in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the speed ratio of the friction disk surface to the running speed of the yarn during false twisting was 1.33, and the temperature of the first heater was 180°C. The number of fluffs of the false twisted yarn was 366/25m, the average single filament fineness of the multifilament was 1.2dtex, the longitudinal fineness unevenness of the multifilament was 1.5%, and the stretch recovery rate CR of the multifilament was 14%. rice field. The fluff had an average length of 2.3 mm and a cross-sectional flatness of 1.4. Textiles produced using these materials lacked soft texture and touch feeling, and also lacked appropriate softness. Table 2 shows the results.

(比較例8)
紡糸時のポリマー吐出量と144ホールで吐出孔径が2種類の紡糸口金に変更し、単フィラメントCV%0.3のポリエチレンテレフタレート部分配向未延伸糸としたこと以外は実施例1と同様にして延伸仮撚加工をした結果、得られた仮撚糸の毛羽の個数は600個/25m、マルチフィラメントの単フィラメント繊度の平均は0.6dtex、マルチフィラメントの長手繊度ムラは1.2%、マルチフィラメントの伸縮復元率CRは35%であった。毛羽の長さ平均は2.5mmであり、断面扁平度は1.7であった。これらを用いて製作した織物は、杢感が不足していた。結果を表2に示す。
(Comparative Example 8)
Drawing was carried out in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the amount of polymer discharged during spinning was changed to a spinneret with two types of discharge hole diameters in the 144 holes, and a polyethylene terephthalate partially oriented undrawn yarn with a single filament CV% of 0.3 was used. As a result of the false twisting process, the number of fluffs in the obtained false twisted yarn was 600/25 m, the average single filament fineness of the multifilament was 0.6 dtex, the longitudinal fineness unevenness of the multifilament was 1.2%, and the multifilament The stretch recovery rate CR was 35%. The fluff had an average length of 2.5 mm and a cross-sectional flatness of 1.7. The woven fabrics produced using these lacked heathered feeling. Table 2 shows the results.

(比較例9)
紡糸時のポリマー吐出量と48ホールで吐出孔径が2種類の紡糸口金に変更し、単フィラメントCV%0.2のポリエチレンテレフタレート部分配向未延伸糸としたこと以外は実施例1と同様にして延伸仮撚加工をした結果、得られた仮撚糸の毛羽の個数は130個/25m、マルチフィラメントの単フィラメント繊度の平均は1.8dtex、マルチフィラメントの長手繊度ムラは1.8%、マルチフィラメントの伸縮復元率CRは29%であった。毛羽の長さ平均は2.5mmであり、断面扁平度は1.5であった。これらを用いて製作した織物は、ソフトな肌触り・接触感が不足しており、また杢感、適度な柔らかさも不足していた。結果を表2に示す。
(Comparative Example 9)
Drawing was carried out in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the amount of polymer discharged during spinning was changed to a spinneret with two types of discharge hole diameters in the 48 holes, and a polyethylene terephthalate partially oriented undrawn yarn with a single filament CV% of 0.2 was used. As a result of the false twisting process, the number of fluffs in the obtained false twisted yarn was 130/25 m, the average single filament fineness of the multifilament was 1.8 dtex, the longitudinal fineness unevenness of the multifilament was 1.8%, and the multifilament The stretch recovery rate CR was 29%. The fluff had an average length of 2.5 mm and a cross-sectional flatness of 1.5. Textiles produced using these materials lacked soft touch and touch feeling, and also lacked heathered feel and moderate softness. Table 2 shows the results.

(比較例10)
紡糸時のポリマー吐出量と48ホールの紡糸口金に変更し、単フィラメントCV%0.02のポリエチレンテレフタレート部分配向未延伸糸としたこと以外は実施例1と同様にして延伸仮撚加工をした結果、得られた仮撚糸の毛羽の個数は103個/25m、マルチフィラメントの単フィラメント繊度の平均は1.8dtex、マルチフィラメントの長手繊度ムラは1.5%、マルチフィラメントの伸縮復元率CRは28%であった。毛羽の長さ平均は1.8mmであり、断面扁平度は1.5であった。これらを用いて製作した織物は、ソフトな肌触り・接触感が不足しており、また杢感、適度な柔らかさも不足していた。結果を表2に示す。
(Comparative Example 10)
Result of draw false twisting in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the amount of polymer discharged during spinning and the spinneret with 48 holes were changed, and a polyethylene terephthalate partially oriented undrawn yarn with a single filament CV% of 0.02 was used. The number of fluffs in the obtained false twisted yarn was 103/25 m, the average single filament fineness of the multifilament was 1.8 dtex, the longitudinal fineness unevenness of the multifilament was 1.5%, and the stretch recovery rate CR of the multifilament was 28. %Met. The fluff had an average length of 1.8 mm and a cross-sectional flatness of 1.5. Textiles produced using these materials lacked soft touch and touch feeling, and also lacked heathered feel and moderate softness. Table 2 shows the results.

Figure 0007259200000002
Figure 0007259200000002

1:マルチフィラメント仮撚糸
2:毛羽
3:楕円型断面
4:1個の凹部を持つ断面
5:2個の凹部を持つ断面
6:部分配向未延伸糸
7:0フィードローラー(0FR)
8:延伸ピン
9:1フィードローラー(1FR)
10:第1ヒーター
11:冷却板
12:フリクションディスク
13:2フィードローラー(2FR)
14:第2ヒーター
15:3フィードローラー(3FR)
16:交絡ノズル
17:仮撚糸
18:部分配向未延伸糸の張力伸長曲線
19:定応力領域
1: Multifilament false twist yarn 2: Fluff 3: Elliptical cross section 4: Cross section with one recess 5: Cross section with two recesses 6: Partially oriented undrawn yarn 7: 0 feed roller (0FR)
8: drawing pin 9: 1 feed roller (1FR)
10: First heater 11: Cooling plate 12: Friction disc 13: 2 feed rollers (2FR)
14: Second heater 15: 3 feed rollers (3FR)
16: Entanglement nozzle 17: False twist yarn 18: Tension elongation curve of partially oriented undrawn yarn 19: Constant stress region

Claims (5)

ポリエステル単一成分からなるマルチフィラメントであり、糸長手方向に単フィラメントが寸断された毛羽を有し、下記(1)~(4)を満足するポリエステル仮撚糸。
(1)前記毛羽の頻度が100~400個/25m。
(2)マルチフィラメントの単フィラメント繊度の平均が0.5~1.5dtex。
(3)マルチフィラメントの長手繊度ムラが1.3~2.0%。
ただし、マルチフィラメントの長手繊度ムラとは、USTER TESTERを使用し、解舒速度25m/分、加撚方向をS撚り4000T/m、測定時間3分の条件にて測定したU%ノーマルの値のことである。
(4)マルチフィラメントの伸縮復元率CRが15%以上。
A polyester false-twisted yarn which is a multifilament composed of a single polyester component, has fluff in which the single filament is cut in the yarn longitudinal direction, and satisfies the following (1) to (4).
(1) The frequency of fluff is 100 to 400 /25m.
(2) The average single filament fineness of the multifilament is 0.5 to 1.5 dtex.
(3) Longitudinal fineness unevenness of multifilament is 1.3 to 2.0%.
However, the unevenness of the longitudinal fineness of multifilament is the U% normal value measured using a USTER TESTER under the conditions of an unwinding speed of 25 m/min, an S twist of 4000 T/m in the twisting direction, and a measurement time of 3 minutes. That is.
(4) The multifilament stretch recovery rate CR is 15% or more.
前記毛羽の平均長さ1.0mm以上である請求項1記載のポリエステル仮撚糸。 2. The polyester false-twisted yarn according to claim 1, wherein said fluff has an average length of 1.0 mm or more. 酸化チタンを0.2~3.0%含有する請求項1または2記載のポリエステル仮撚糸。 The polyester false twisted yarn according to claim 1 or 2, containing 0.2 to 3.0% of titanium oxide. マルチフィラメントを構成する全単フィラメントの任意の50%の断面扁平度が1.5~2.5である請求項1~3のいずれか1項記載のポリエステル仮撚糸。 The polyester false-twisted yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein arbitrary 50% of all single filaments constituting the multifilament have a cross-sectional flatness of 1.5 to 2.5. 請求項1~4のいずれか1項に記載のポリエステル仮撚糸を構成の一部に配した編織物。 A knitted fabric in which the polyester false twisted yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 4 is arranged in a part of the structure.
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Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP2002020935A (en) 2000-07-11 2002-01-23 Toray Ind Inc Polyester false-twist textured yarn and woven knitted fabric made of the yarn
JP2013185282A (en) 2012-03-09 2013-09-19 Toray Ind Inc Polyester false-twist yarn
JP2017106141A (en) 2015-12-10 2017-06-15 ユニチカトレーディング株式会社 Low-crimped thick-and-thin false-twisted yarn and method for manufacturing the same

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP2541661B2 (en) * 1989-07-03 1996-10-09 東レ株式会社 Adhesive interlining

Patent Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP2002020935A (en) 2000-07-11 2002-01-23 Toray Ind Inc Polyester false-twist textured yarn and woven knitted fabric made of the yarn
JP2013185282A (en) 2012-03-09 2013-09-19 Toray Ind Inc Polyester false-twist yarn
JP2017106141A (en) 2015-12-10 2017-06-15 ユニチカトレーディング株式会社 Low-crimped thick-and-thin false-twisted yarn and method for manufacturing the same

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