JPH10259552A - Stretchable raised knitted fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To prepare a raised knitted fabric of improved pill resistance and good stretchability. SOLUTION: This stretchable, raised fabric consists of elastic polyurethane filaments, each covered with a polyester filament A, and polyester filaments B, which share the fabric knots, wherein both the filaments A and B are raised, and the ratio of single fiber fineness of the filament A [(a) denier] to that of the filament B [(b) denier], i.e., (a/b), is 2 or more.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a stretchable knitted fabric excellent in pilling resistance and suitable for clothing and upholstery.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Brushed knitted fabrics using thermoplastic synthetic fiber filaments are preferred for use in clothing such as pants, skirts, and coats for women, and materials such as chair upholstery because of their high quality. ing. Recently, attempts have been made to apply polyurethane elastic fibers to this knitted fabric to improve elasticity, improve comfort, soften the texture, and improve moldability in upholstery. Have been done. However, there is a problem in that a brushed knitted fabric provided with elasticity generally tends to cause pilling.

[0003]

The raised knitted fabric is liable to cause pilling by nature. It has innumerable free ends on the surface of the knitted fabric, which are stretched by the friction during wearing and the other ends are entwined where the ends are curled (swirling), and the fuzz is Is likely to grow and become pilling.

On the other hand, when raising a thermoplastic synthetic fiber filament to a needle cloth, it is stretched to the limit and then cut and raised (fining method for finally cutting the fiber).
Furthermore, the generation of pilling has been suppressed by shearing (shearing: cutting with a blade) extra fibers.

[0005] However, in a knitted fabric to which elasticity is imparted by applying polyurethane elastic fibers, a gap between the wales is opened at the time of elongation, and a non-raised portion is exposed. In the non-raised portion, there is a problem that a thread that is hung halfway through the raised needle during the raising process exists, and pilling is easily formed. The present invention has been made in view of the above problems, and an object of the present invention is to provide a brushed knitted fabric having improved pilling resistance and good stretchability.

[0006]

Means for Solving the Problems The present inventors have prevented the pilling of an elastic brushed knitted fabric formed by knitting a coated elastic yarn in which a thermoplastic synthetic fiber filament (A) is coated around an elastic fiber such as a polyurethane fiber. To knit, the knitted fabric is knitted such that the coated elastic yarn and the thermoplastic synthetic fiber filament (B) used for raising share the knot of the knitted fabric, and the thermoplastic synthetic fiber filament is formed by a raising treatment. By forming the knitted fabric so that not only B but also the thermoplastic synthetic fiber filament A is substantially raised, and the filament fineness of the filaments A and B satisfies a specific relationship, good pilling resistance is obtained. The present inventors have found that the property can be obtained, and arrived at the present invention.

That is, according to the present invention, a coated synthetic yarn obtained by coating a thermoplastic synthetic fiber filament A around an elastic fiber and a thermoplastic synthetic fiber filament B are knitted while sharing a knot of a knitted fabric. Stretched knitted fabric,
The filaments of both the thermoplastic synthetic fiber filament B and the thermoplastic synthetic fiber filament A are raised, and the filament B has a single fiber fineness b (denier).
Of the filament A and the single fiber fineness a (denier) of the filament A
(a / b) is 2 or more, which is an elastic brushed knitted fabric excellent in pilling resistance.

[0008]

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS The thermoplastic synthetic fiber filaments A and B used in the present invention are preferably filaments made of a thermoplastic polymer such as polyester, polyamide, or a saponified ethylene-vinyl acetate copolymer. used. As the polyester, for example, polyalkylene terephthalate such as polyethylene terephthalate, polytrimethylene terephthalate and polybutylene terephthalate is preferably used. Further, these alkylene terephthalate repeating units as a main skeleton, isophthalic acid, 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid,
Adipic acid, sebacic acid, diethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, polybutylene glycol, etc.
It may be a modified polyester obtained by copolymerizing three components.

Examples of the polyamide include polyamides such as nylon 6 and nylon 66.
These may be appropriately modified by the third component.

Further, in the present invention, two or more of these polymers may be used in any composite form, for example, a polymer composite (core-sheath type, side-by-side type, multi-layer lamination type, random type composite spinning or mixed spinning). ), Spinning composite (spun mixed fiber, etc.), and yarn composite (normal mixed fiber, structurally processed yarn).

The polymer material constituting the elastic fiber used in the present invention is not particularly limited, and may be obtained from polyurethane elastomers such as polyether-based polyurethane and polyester-based polyurethane, olefin-based elastomers, silicone-based elastomers, diene-based rubbers and the like. In the present invention, fibers composed of 85% or more of segmented polyurethane are preferably used. The method for producing the polyurethane elastic fiber may be dry spinning, melt spinning, or wet spinning.

In the present invention, the form in which the thermoplastic synthetic fiber filament A covers the periphery of the elastic fiber is not particularly limited, and a covering method using a hollow spindle, a fluid injection method (air or water), a false twist method, The method of producing the coated elastic yarn by any of the twisting methods may be used.

In the present invention, sharing the knot of the knitted fabric means that the coated elastic yarn and the thermoplastic synthetic fiber filament B
Is supplied from the same yarn feeder to form the same stitch. The more shared stitches, the better,
Not all stitches on the brushed surface need to be shared. In order for a plurality of yarns to share a stitch, the yarn may be supplied to the knitting needle from the same yarn feeder. However, in a raised knitted fabric such as the present invention, it is preferred that the yarn to be raised is mainly projected outward. Therefore, it is preferable that the tension in the yarn supply is small in the thermoplastic synthetic fiber filament B and large in the coated elastic yarn.

In the present invention, raising (raising treatment)
It refers to a process of giving a hairy appearance by pulling out or cutting a single fiber with a needle-like projection, etc., regardless of the method of brushing needle cloth, paper brushing, thistle brushing, water brushing etc. . Also, being brushed
A part of the multifilament includes both a state where the single fiber is pulled out by the above-mentioned protrusions and the like and a state where the single fiber is cut.

[0015] Originally, filaments having a higher fineness of single fibers are more likely to be raised, but pilling is more likely to occur. On the other hand, if the single fiber has a small fineness, it is difficult to raise the hair, but if the single fiber is once raised, the pilling is hard to occur. It is presumed that the reason for this is that, by raising the fiber that is difficult to raise repeatedly, the fiber is not curled after being stretched and becomes a core of pilling.

In the present invention, the coated elastic yarn is knitted so as to be hidden under the thermoplastic synthetic fiber filaments B, so that it is difficult for the coated elastic yarn to be raised in terms of a positional relationship. Therefore, in order to raise the coated elastic yarn, it is necessary to provide a difference in fineness as described above. That is, the thermoplastic synthetic fiber filament A needs to be relatively thick, and needs to be about twice or more the fineness of the filament B.

In the present invention, the term "pilling" means the occurrence of pills or poor appearance as evaluated by the ICI pilling method.

[0018]

The brushed knitted fabric having elasticity has a problem in pilling. The reason is that when the knitted fabric is stretched, the monofilaments are pulled out of the open portion between the wales to form a pilling. This stretched,
The open state is very slight in terms of elongation rate, and is 10%.
It is as follows.

This can be understood by recalling the ICI pilling measurement method. During the ICI pilling measurement, the elastic cloth wrapped around the rubber tube expands and contracts with the deformation of the rubber tube while rotating in the Box, but the degree of elongation seems to be slight. Further, although the measurement of ICI pilling and the actual wearing of the clothes correspond quite well, it is because the elongation of the cloth usually expresses about several% to 10% in the wearing.

The elongation of a brushed knitted fabric using polyurethane elastic fibers is 30% to 100% in the transverse direction, but is several%.
According to the present invention, when the elongation of 10% to 10% is developed, in the shared stitch, the coated filament A of the brushed coated elastic yarn is appropriately entangled with the filament B mainly comprising the raised brush, and the yarn is turned or twisted. In order to suppress the movement, the occurrence of the pilling is reduced by suppressing the exposure of the filament B which is likely to be pilling in the filament B.

[0021]

EXAMPLES The present invention will be described in more detail with reference to the following Examples, which should not be construed as limiting the invention thereto.

Example 1 A knitted fabric having the structure shown in FIG. 1 was knitted using a 28-gauge 30-inch double knitting machine. (1) in the figure,
The knitted fabric is knitted by repeating in the order of (2), (3) and (4). K, L, M, each indicate a different thread,
Is a polyester 75 denier 96 filament (napping yarn; filament B), L is a spandex (Kuraray “Spantel”: registered trademark) 40 denier
The draft is tripled, and 50 denier 24 filaments (filament A) of polyester processing yarn are wound around the draft.
The coated elastic yarn covered by the hollow spindle method at a rate of 500 times per meter is a coated polyester yarn 50 denier 24 filaments. The yarn L is knitted on both the dial side and the cylinder side. The thread K shares a stitch with the thread L on the dial side. When the yarn K is supplied, the yarn supply tension is set lower than the tension of the yarn K, so that the yarn K covers the surface of the cloth.

The knitted fabric thus obtained is brushed (brushed with a needle cloth) -relaxed (90.degree. C.)-Preset (1).
70 ° C. × 1 minute) -Dyeing (130 ° C. × 30 minutes) -Drying-napping (napping-napping) -Shearing-Through a series of steps of finishing set, finishing width 130 cm, basis weight 450 g / m
Finished with ² . The elongation of this dough is JIS L 101
At 8 (constant load: 750 g, test width: 2.5 cm, distance between marked lines: 10 cm), the elongation in the vertical direction was 55%, and the elongation in the horizontal direction was 40%. The pilling is ICI
It was as good as 4-5 grade in 5 hours and quaternary in 10 hours.

In this example, the single yarn fineness (b) of the filament B for raising is 0.78 dr, the single yarn fineness (a) of the coated yarn is 2.08 dr, and a / b = 2.66. there were. When the yarn of the knitted knitted fabric was unraveled, the coated yarn showed elongation and breakage of the filament A, and was substantially raised.

Comparative Example 1 Using the same knitting machine and structure as in Example 1, yarn K was the same polyester 75 denier 96 filament as the example (a yarn for raising: filament B), and yarn L was a polyester processed yarn. 50 denier 24 filaments are used. For the yarn M, 40 deniers of spandex ("Spantel" (registered trademark) manufactured by Kuraray Co., Ltd.) are drafted three times, and 50 denier 24 filaments of polyester processed yarn are wound around the denier. A knitted fabric was knitted with the coated elastic yarns covered with the filament A) by the hollow spindle method at a rate of 500 times per meter. In this knitted fabric, the brushing yarn K
And the covering elastic yarns M do not share the same stitch. This elongation of the knitted fabric is obtained by the coated elastic yarn M used in (2) and (4). In knitting, the yarn supply tension of the yarn K is set to be smaller than the yarn supply tension of the yarn L.

This knitted fabric was processed in the same manner as in Example 1, and finished with a finished width of 130 cm and a basis weight of 430 g / m ² . The elongation of this dough is JIS L 1018
(Constant load 750g, test width 2.5cm, distance between marked lines 1
(0 cm), the elongation in the vertical direction was 51%, and the elongation in the horizontal direction was 38%. The pilling was as poor as grade 3 in 5 hours of ICI and grade 2-3 in 10 hours.

Comparative Example 2 A knitted fabric having the structure shown in FIG. 1 was knitted using a 28-gauge 30-inch double knit knitting machine. (1), (2),
The knitted fabric is knitted by repeating in the order of (3) and (4). In the figure, K, L, M and K indicate different types of yarn, K is a polyester 75 denier 96 filament (thread for raising the brush: filament B), L is spandex (Kuraray Co., Ltd. "Spantel": registered) (Trademark) 40-denier is drafted three times, and polyester-processed yarn 50-denier
A coated elastic yarn obtained by covering 48 filaments (filament A) by a hollow spindle method at a rate of 500 times per meter, and M is a polyester processed yarn 50 denier 24 filament. The yarn L is knitted on both the dial side and the cylinder side. The thread K shares a stitch with the thread L on the dial side. When the yarn K is supplied, the yarn supply tension is set to be lower than the tension of the yarn L so that the yarn K can be supplied.
Covers the surface of the dough.

The knitted fabric thus obtained is brushed (brushed with a needle cloth) -relaxed (90.degree. C.)-Preset (170.degree. C..times.).
1 minute) -dyeing (130 ° C. × 30 minutes) -drying-napping (napping-napping) -sharing-finishing set through a series of steps, finishing with a finishing width of 130 cm and a basis weight of 450 g / m ² . The elongation of this cloth is JIS L 1018 (constant load 750 g, test width 2.5 cm, distance between marked lines 10 c
In m), the elongation in the vertical direction was 58%, and the elongation in the horizontal direction was 45%. The pilling was as poor as grade 3 in 5 hours of ICI and grade 2-3 in 10 hours.

In this example, the single yarn fineness (b) of the filament B for raising is 0.78 dr, the single yarn fineness (a) of the filament A for the covering yarn is 1.04 dr, and a / b
= 1.33. In addition, when the yarn of the knitted knitted fabric was unraveled, the coated yarn did not show any elongation or breakage of the fiber, and was not affected by the raising.

[Brief description of the drawings]

FIG. 1 is an example of a knitting diagram of a knitted fabric of the present invention.

Claims (2)

[Claims] 1. A stretchable brushed fabric in which a coated elastic yarn formed by covering a thermoplastic synthetic fiber filament A around an elastic fiber and a thermoplastic synthetic fiber filament B are knitted so as to share a knot of a knitted fabric. A knitted fabric, comprising a thermoplastic synthetic fiber filament B and a thermoplastic synthetic fiber filament A
And the ratio (a / b) between the single fiber fineness b (denier) of the filament B and the single fiber fineness a (denier) of the filament A is 2 or more. Stretch knitted fabric with excellent pilling resistance. 2. The stretchable brushed knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the elastic fiber is a polyurethane elastic fiber.