JPH10130977A - Stretchable slub yarn - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To obtain a stretchable slub yarn having high designing effect, excellent in stretching properties and useful for various use such as clothes and an interior decoration field by heat treating a slub yarn consisting essentially of staple of eccentric type conjugated yarn. SOLUTION: This stretchable slub yarn having >=20% elongation and >=70% elastic recovery after a heat treatment by 160 deg.C dry air is obtained by heat treating a slub yarn containing >=55wt.% eccentric type conjugated filament staple in a tensionless state at 160-180 deg.C in a case of a dry air treatment. The stub length and the diameter at the center of the stub of the stretchable slub yarn are within the ranges of 5mm-2m and 0.2-5mm, respectively.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a stretchable slab yarn made of high-quality staples having excellent stretchability and a high design effect.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art A slab yarn is a specially designed yarn having a thick portion and a thin portion alternately. For example, a method of producing a slab yarn by intermittently changing the roller speed of a spinning machine in a spinning process (Japanese Patent Publication No. A slab yarn is manufactured by intermittently supplying a spun roving yarn to an intermittently drafted fleece to produce a slab yarn. These slab yarns are mainly used in the field of apparel to change the form of the fabric.

However, in recent garments, soft fitting properties have been required from the viewpoint of comfort, and it is required that the fabric not only has a fancy tone or a design effect but also has a stretch function. It is becoming.

[0004] However, non-stretchable fibers are generally used in conventional slab yarns, and there has been a problem in that when the fabric is woven with the slab yarns, the stretch function is poor.

In order to solve this problem, it is conceivable to use stretchable fibers such as spandex. In this case, the stretchable fibers are used as the core yarn, and the other fibers are supplied around the core with a supply speed and twist number. It is necessary to cover while giving a change to. Therefore, since the core yarn has elasticity, there is a difficulty in workability, and it is extremely difficult to obtain a stable thickness and surface shape of the yarn.

[0006]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION An object of the present invention is to provide a stretchable slab yarn having a high design effect and a stretch function.

[0007]

The present invention employs the following means in order to solve the above-mentioned problems. That is, the present invention relates to a slab yarn containing 55% by weight or more of the eccentric conjugated composite fiber staple, which has an elongation of 20% or more after a dry heat treatment at 160 ° C and an elongation recovery after a dry heat treatment at 160 ° C. Rate 70
% Or more.

[0008]

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION In the present invention, the eccentric conjugate fiber is a conjugate fiber obtained by joining a high shrinkage polyester resin and a low shrinkage polyester resin in a bimetallic form. A copolymerized polyester (A) mainly composed of ethylene terephthalate units and a copolymer component of metal salt sulfonate and 2 to 10 mol% of isophthalic acid, and a copolymerized polyester (A) mainly composed of polyethylene terephthalate or ethylene terephthalate units. The stretchable slab yarn according to claim 1, which is a composite fiber formed by eccentrically joining the low-shrinkage copolymerized polyester (B), and the length of the stretchable slab yarn. S, diameter d at the center of the slab is 5mm
It is also a preferred embodiment of the present invention that the ranges of ≦ S ≦ 2 m and 0.2 mm ≦ d ≦ 5 mm are satisfied.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail. The stretchable slab yarn of the present invention contains eccentric conjugate fiber staples in an amount of 55% by weight or more. This is because the elasticity is sufficiently exhibited. If the eccentric type composite fiber staple is less than 55% by weight, crimping is insufficiently generated under the restrained state of twist, which is not preferable.

The eccentric composite fiber staple may be composed of 100% by weight, but the eccentric composite fiber staple may be composed of synthetic fibers such as polyester fiber and polyamide fiber, and semi-synthetic fibers such as acetate fiber and triacetate fiber. Recycled fiber such as, rayon, polynosic, cupra, etc.
Alternatively, natural fibers such as cotton, hemp, wool and the like may be appropriately blended in a range of less than 45% by weight to simultaneously have the characteristics and functions of other materials.

The eccentric type conjugate fiber includes so-called side-by-side type and core-sheath eccentric type conjugate fiber. As a preferred example, structural units 1 to 1 mainly composed of ethylene terephthalate units and having a metal salt sulfonate group A copolymerized polyester (A) containing 3 mol% and 2 to 10 mol% of isophthalic acid as a copolymer component, and a copolymer polyester (A) mainly comprising polyethylene terephthalate or ethylene terephthalate units and having a lower shrinkage than the copolymerized polyester (A) And B) are eccentrically bonded to each other. Examples of the structural unit having a metal salt sulfonate group include a compound represented by the following general formula (where X is Na, K, Li, etc.).

[0012]

Embedded image

As an embodiment of the eccentric conjugate fiber having latent crimpability, the side-by-side type as described above is desirable. That is, as an example of this, an ethylene terephthalate unit is a main component, and a constituent unit having a metal salt sulfonate group is 1 to 3 mol%, preferably 1.5 to 2.
7 mol% and 2 to 10 mol%, preferably 3 to 8 mol%, of isophthalic acid, a copolymerized polyester (A) having a copolymerization component, and an ethylene terephthalate unit as a main component, which is lower than the copolymerized polyester (A). Shrinkable copolyester or polyethylene terephthalate, (B)
Conjugated side-by-side.

In the conjugate fiber of the present invention, the copolymerized polyester (A) constituting one of the high shrinkage components contains a structural unit having a metal salt sulfonate group as a copolymerization component, so that the other low shrinkage component As compared with polyethylene terephthalate or copolymerized polyester (B). Therefore, this conjugate fiber is a copolymer polyester (A) which is a high shrinkage component.
Bend with the side inside. Further, since the copolymerized polyester (A) contains isophthalic acid as a copolymerization component in addition to the above-mentioned constitutional unit having a metal salt sulfonate group, it contains only the above-mentioned constitutional unit having a metal salt sulfonate group. As compared with the case, the heat shrinkage rate as the high shrinkage component is large, and the difference in heat shrinkage from the low shrinkage component is further increased. As a result, the potential crimpability increases and the strength as a conjugate fiber improves. In this case, when the copolymerization ratio of the structural unit having a metal salt sulfonate group in the copolymerized polyester (A) is less than 1 mol%, elastic recovery after stretching is insufficient, and the latent crimping ability becomes insufficient. If it exceeds mol%, the strength of the composite fiber becomes insufficient. When the copolymerized amount of isophthalic acid in the copolymerized polyester (A) is 2 mol% or less, the difference in heat shrinkage from polyethylene terephthalate or the copolymerized polyester (B) is insufficient. Later, the elastic recovery is insufficient, and in any case, the latent crimpability becomes insufficient.

Further, the polyesters (A) and (B) may contain other copolymer components as long as the object of the present invention is not impaired. Further, anti-microbial agents, deodorants, flame retardants, hydrophilic agents, water repellents, softeners, dyes, pigments, and other property-imparting agents and additives are added to the polyesters (A) and / or (B). It can be blended as needed. The latently crimpable eccentric conjugate fiber used in the present invention is 1
5% dry heat shrinkage at a load of 36mg / d at 60 ° C
It is preferable that it is above. This is to cause a yarn length difference between the high shrinkage portion and the low shrinkage portion due to the appearance of crimp. The reason why the latent crimpable eccentric conjugate fiber is contained at least 55% by weight or more is to increase the elastic recovery rate, that is, the elongation rate and the elongation recovery rate of the yarn after the heat treatment.

The stretchable slab yarn containing the eccentric conjugate fiber preferably has an elongation at a dry heat of 160 ° C. of 20% or more. If it is less than 20%, the elasticity is undesirably reduced. The stretchable slab yarn preferably has an elongation recovery rate of 70% or more. This is because if the return after elongation is less than 70%, the resilience will be small and the fit will be poor.

FIG. 1 is an external view showing a part of the stretchable slab yarn of the present invention. As shown in FIG. 1, the slab length S is preferably in the range of 5 mm to 2 m.
If the slab length S is less than 5 mm, thick yarn portions are only scattered, and sufficient morphological change is not provided. Also, if the diameter d at the center of the slab is too large or too small, the design and the quality are deteriorated when it is made into cloth.
Therefore, the diameter d is preferably in the range of 0.2 mm ≦ d ≦ 5 mm. More preferably, 0.4 mm ≦ d ≦ 3 m
The range of m is desirable.

Next, a method for producing the stretchable slab yarn of the present invention will be described. The eccentric conjugate fiber described above is cut at a predetermined length to obtain a staple fiber. Then, after making it into a roving yarn in the same manner as a general spun yarn, in a spinning step, a draft ratio is intermittently changed to produce a stretchable slab yarn. Further, the stretchable slab yarn of the present invention is a method of fast-forwarding a back roller of a ring spinning machine, or a method of simultaneously fast-forwarding a second roller and a back roller of a ring spinning machine, or shifting a front roller of a ring spinning machine. Or any other method.
Hereinafter, an example of manufacturing the present invention based on a method of shifting the front roller will be described with reference to the drawings. However, the drawings are merely for explanation, and modifications are permissible as long as the spirit of the present invention is not lost.

FIG. 2 is a view showing an example of an apparatus used for producing a slab yarn according to the present invention. In FIG. 2, drive is transmitted from a motor (not shown) to a gear 2 via a gear 1. Gear 2 for front roller FR
The rotation is transmitted to the second roller SR and the back roller BR from the gear 2 through the gear 4, gear 5, gear 6, gear 7, gear 8 to the back roller BR, and further to the second roller SR and the back roller BR. , And transmitted to the second roller SR. The clutch 15 is turned on and off by an instruction from the computer 18, but when the clutch 15 is off, rotation from a motor (not shown) is transmitted to the front roller FR, the second roller SR, and the back roller BR as they are. Therefore, the portion of the yarn spun in this state forms a slab. When the clutch 15 is ON, another motor 19
Sprocket 12, chain 13, sprocket 1
4, the high-speed rotation of the front roller FR from the clutch 15, the gears 16 and 17 by the operation of the one-way clutch 3
Only transmitted to the second roller SR, back row BR
The rotation from a motor (not shown) is transmitted to the motor. Accordingly, the draft is increased, and a thin yarn is spun. When the clutch 15 is turned off according to an instruction from the computer 18, the original rotation is transmitted to the front roller FR, and a thick portion, that is, a slab is spun. . The one-way clutch 3 is an example of a bald mechanism, and is a clutch that selectively transmits only one of the rotations when the rotation of another drive source overlaps. The thickness of the slab can be changed by changing the draft change.
8 is changed by the timing at which the clutch 15 is turned on in accordance with the instruction of FIG. In the non-slab portion, the rotation speed is changed by interlocking the pilot motor 11 with another motor 19, and the yarn thickness of the non-slab portion is changed by changing the rotation of the front roller FR. Accordingly, the ON / OFF control of the clutch 15 controls the length of the slab and the length of the non-slab part, the draft change changes the thickness of the slab, and the pilot motor 11 controls the thickness of the non-slab part. Is controlled. The obtained slab yarn is usually used without any treatment, but may be subjected to a steam set or the like as necessary.

After weaving the fabric using the above slab yarn,
By undergoing heat treatment in dyeing, finishing, and the like, the crimping ability of the stretchable yarn is developed, and a stretchable function is obtained. At this time,
In order to give sufficient elasticity, it is necessary to perform heat treatment at a temperature of 125 ° C. or more or a temperature of 160 ° C. or more while maintaining a tension-free state. This is because the latent crimping function is almost completely developed and the residual latent crimping function is eliminated. Regarding the heating conditions, when the heat of moisture is less than 125 ° C. or the heat of dry heat is less than 160 ° C., the appearance of crimp becomes incomplete, which is not desirable. Therefore, 125-140 ° C with wet heat and 160 with dry heat
~ 180 ° C is more preferred. Since the elasticity of the fabric using the slab yarn of the present invention is developed after the dyeing / finishing process, it is necessary to control the yarn tension during weaving, such as when using a covering yarn of an elastic fiber such as spandex. Does not require any special contrivance and has no difficulty in processing resulting from the expansion and contraction of the fabric, so that no special processing device or condition setting is required. Also, when the fiber material is polyester, compared to spandex, light resistance, heat resistance,
Good durability such as chemical resistance. Also, since the material cost is lower than that of spandex or the like, there is an advantage that the cost of the product can be reduced. Further, the fabric made of the slab yarn of the present invention is characterized by having good stretchability, excellent designability, and a soft feel.

[0021]

The following shows the evaluation test method for the physical properties of yarn.
Was. (1) Elongation rate (%) of slab yarn: dry heat 160 ° C. × 30 minutes
After processing, gently add 0.056 x yarn denier to the sample yarn.
g load, left for 1 hour, and then extended L ₁ Measure
And the original length L₀ And from [(L₁ −l₀ ) / L₀ ] ×
It was determined from 100.

(2) Elongation recovery rate (%) of slab yarn: The sample yarn after the dry heat treatment at 160 ° C. for 30 minutes was gently added to the sample yarn for 0.0%.
After applying a load of 56 × denier g, the length L ₁ extended after standing for 1 hour was measured, and then the weight was removed. After 1 hour, the length L ₂ was measured again, and [(L ₁ −L ₂ ) / (L ₁ −L ₀ )] × 1
00.

(3) Dry heat shrinkage (%) of staple: J
According to the ISL1015 7.15 method, a sample of 25 mm in length was loosened one by one on a piece of paper with a smooth surface, and the both ends were attached. After cutting the attached piece of paper,
A load of 6 mg / d is applied, and the distance L between the grips is measured. The sample is removed from the apparatus, suspended in a dryer (temperature: 160 ° C.), left for 30 minutes, taken out, and cooled to room temperature.
The distance L 'between the grips when the above-mentioned load is applied again is determined from the formula [(L-L') / L] × 100.

(4) Dry heat shrinkage (%) of slab yarn: The slab yarn is attached at a gripping distance of 50 cm using a hanging device, a load of 140 mg / d is applied, and the distance H between the grips is measured. Then, the slab yarn was removed from the apparatus, suspended in a dryer (temperature 160 ° C.), left for 30 minutes, taken out, cooled to room temperature, and the distance H ′ between the grips when the load was applied again was measured. , [(H−H ′) / H] ×
Obtained from the formula of 100.

(5) Appearance quality: A visual evaluation was performed by 10 inspectors. ○ indicates that the appearance was good.

(6) Stretchability: Sensory evaluation was performed by 10 examiners. ○ indicates that elongation and power are good.

Example 1 As a low shrinkage component, a copolymer polyester mainly composed of ethylene terephthalate units and copolymerized with 1.5 mol% of diethylene glycol ester of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid and 8 mol% of isophthalic acid was used. Using polyethylene terephthalate, spinning temperature 290
C., a single hole discharge rate of 1 g / min (discharge ratio: 50:50), and spinning speed of 1600 m / min to produce a side-by-side undrawn yarn. The undrawn yarn is converged and drawn at a draw ratio of 1.4 times at a drawing temperature of 140 ° C., and then subjected to mechanical crimping (10 pcs / inch) with a stuffing box. , Fineness 2.5
A denier side-by-side eccentric composite fiber staple was manufactured. The dry heat shrinkage under a dry heat of 160 ° C. and a load of 36 mg / d was 8%, and the number of crimps developed during heat treatment at 160 ° C. under no load was 55 / inch. Then, in the spinning process, the eccentric composite fiber staple 10
After using 0% by weight to make a roving, it was set on a ring spinning machine to produce a slab yarn under the following processing conditions.

(Spinning conditions) Spinning speed: 4 m / min during spinning of slab, 9-11 m / min during spinning of non-slab part Number of rotations of front bottom roller: 51 r during spinning of slab
pm During spinning of non-slab parts 115-138 rpm Rotation speed of middle bottom roller: 10.5 rpm (low speed) Rotation speed of back bottom roller: 4.5 rpm (low speed) OF time of clutch: 0.5-75 seconds Pilot motor Forward / reverse rotation cycle: 5 seconds Clutch ON time: 4 to 28 seconds The obtained slab yarn is not subjected to steam setting, is used as it is for a weft, and a normal spun yarn made of a polyester eccentric composite fiber is used for a warp. A plain woven fabric was prepared, and heat treatment was performed at 125 ° C. on dry heat in an overfeed state of + 45% in the warp direction and in a free state in the weft direction, followed by weight reduction at a weight loss rate of 5% and dyeing at 130 ° C. The obtained fabric had good stretchability, had a varied appearance and soft texture. Table 1 shows the results of measuring various properties of the slab yarn.

[0029]

[Table 1]

Example 2 A slab yarn was produced under the same conditions as in Example 1 except that 65% by weight of the eccentric composite fiber staple of Example 1 and 35% by weight of ordinary polyester staple were blended. Table 1 shows the results of measuring various properties of the obtained slab yarn.
It was shown to.

Comparative Example 1 A slab yarn was produced under the same conditions as in Example 1 except that 50% by weight of the eccentric composite fiber staple of Example 1 and 50% by weight of ordinary polyester staple were blended. Table 1 shows the results of measuring various properties of the obtained slab yarn.
It was shown to.

Comparative Example 2 A slab yarn was produced under the same conditions as in Example 1 except that a normal polyester staple was used instead of the eccentric conjugate fiber staple of Example 1. Table 1 shows the results of measuring various properties of the obtained slab yarn.

Comparative Example 3 When spandex was used as a core yarn and nylon filament yarn was covered around the core yarn, fancy yarns having thick and thin unevenness were produced by changing the yarn supply speed and the number of twists in various ways. However, since the core yarn has elasticity, the covering process is uneasy and the surface shape of the yarn is not stable,
It was extremely low quality. Table 1 shows the results obtained by measuring various characteristics of the obtained yarn.

[0034]

According to the present invention, since it is a stretchable slab yarn using an eccentric conjugate fiber, a slab yarn having a fancy effect due to the presence of the thick yarn portion and having good stretchability after heat treatment is obtained. can get. For this reason, the fabric using the stretchable slab yarn of the present invention is excellent in stretchability, rich in appearance change, has a soft and swelling feel, and is used in various applications such as clothing and interior fields. It is possible. Also, since eccentric conjugate fibers are used for imparting elasticity instead of spandex, heat resistance and light resistance are good, and the material price is low.

[Brief description of the drawings]

FIG. 1 is a partial cross-sectional view of a stretchable slab yarn of the present invention.

FIG. 2 is an explanatory view showing an example of an apparatus for manufacturing a stretchable slab yarn of the present invention.

[Explanation of symbols]

 S Length of slab d Middle of slab FR Front roller SR Second roller BR Back roller

Claims (4)

[Claims] An eccentric composite fiber staple is 55% by weight.
A stretchable slab yarn comprising the above slab yarn, wherein the elongation percentage after the dry heat treatment at 160 ° C is 20% or more, and the elongation recovery rate after the dry heat treatment at 160 ° C is 70% or more. . 2. The stretchable slab yarn according to claim 1, wherein the eccentric conjugate fiber is a conjugate fiber obtained by joining a high shrinkage polyester resin and a low shrinkage polyester resin in a bimetallic shape. 3. An eccentric conjugated fiber comprising a copolymerized polyester comprising ethylene terephthalate units as a main component, and a copolymer component comprising 1 to 3 mol% of a structural unit having a metal salt sulfonate group and 2 to 10 mol% of isophthalic acid. The composite fiber according to claim 1, wherein A) and a copolymer polyester (B) mainly composed of polyethylene terephthalate or ethylene terephthalate units and having a lower shrinkage than the copolymer polyester (A) are eccentrically bonded. The stretchable slab yarn as described. 4. The stretchable slab yarn according to claim 1, wherein the length S of the stretchable slab yarn and the diameter d of the central portion of the slab satisfy the following expression. 5mm ≦ S ≦ 2m 0.2mm ≦ d ≦ 5mm