JP3963356B2 - Narrow fabric - Google Patents

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Publication number
JP3963356B2
JP3963356B2 JP2002142820A JP2002142820A JP3963356B2 JP 3963356 B2 JP3963356 B2 JP 3963356B2 JP 2002142820 A JP2002142820 A JP 2002142820A JP 2002142820 A JP2002142820 A JP 2002142820A JP 3963356 B2 JP3963356 B2 JP 3963356B2
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JP
Japan
Prior art keywords
yarn
stretch
elongation
woven fabric
narrow
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Expired - Fee Related
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JP2002142820A
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JP2003336140A (en
Inventor
義臣 堀田
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旭化成せんい株式会社
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Description

[0001]
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to a narrow woven fabric, and more particularly to a stretchable narrow woven fabric having a soft texture and a lightweight feeling in addition to a highly durable stretch function.
[0002]
[Prior art]
The use of stretchable narrow woven fabrics is spreading as much as possible for use in side lines and suspenders for sports clothing, straps and inside belts for inner clothing, medical supporters, corsets, and the like.
So far, narrow fabrics woven with rubber in the warp direction and fabrics woven with polyurethane elastic fibers have been developed and put on the market as stretchable narrow fabrics. However, these narrow woven fabrics with 100% or partly arranged rubber or polyurethane fiber so far have a hard texture, a heavy weight, washing, sweat adhesion, action of chlorine gas, etc. As a result, the rubber and the polyurethane fiber deteriorate, and as a result, the stretch back function and the support force are remarkably impaired.
[0003]
The present applicant previously proposed in Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2002-52273 that a narrow fabric using polytrimethylene terephthalate multifilament yarn is excellent for cushioning materials. The development of a narrow woven fabric that has not only a stretch function but also a softer wearing feeling and lighter weight, and also a highly durable stretch function is desired.
[0004]
[Problems to be solved by the invention]
An object of the present invention is to solve the above-described problems of the prior art, and to provide a narrow woven fabric having a soft texture and a light feeling, and having a highly durable stretch function and excellent snuggling resistance. .
[0005]
[Means for Solving the Invention]
As a result of intensive studies to solve the above-mentioned problems, the present inventor has found that the above characteristics are largely related to the form and physical properties of the stretchable fiber material. As a result of further study on this point, the present inventors have found that the above problems can be solved by using a specific fiber material for warp in a specific yarn form, and have completed the present invention. That is, in the present invention, the warp is composed of false twisted yarn. The width is in the range of 3 to 330 mm It is a narrow woven fabric, and this false twisted yarn is composed of two or more kinds of polyester components, of which at least one component is polytrimethylene terephthalate, and is composed of a latently crimped polyester composite fiber. The elastic recovery when stretched 15% in the warp direction is 70% or more Yes, and the stretch rate in the warp direction is 15% or more It is a narrow woven fabric characterized by being.
[0006]
The present invention is described in detail below.
The narrow woven fabric of the present invention has a width in the range of 3 to 330 mm and an arbitrary thickness. A typical example of the narrow fabric is a tape-like or ribbon-like elongated fabric. The narrow woven fabric is generally suitably used for sports clothing side lines, suspenders, inner clothing straps, inside belts, medical supporters, corsets, and the like.
[0007]
In the present invention, it is important to use a false twisted yarn made of a latently crimped polyester composite fiber as the warp. The latent crimpable polyester composite fiber used in the present invention comprises two or more kinds of polyester components, and at least one of them is composed of polytrimethylene terephthalate (specifically, side-by-side type or Many are joined to an eccentric core-sheath type), and crimps are developed by heat treatment. The component ratio of each component, the joint surface shape of each component (there is a straight or curved shape), etc. are not limited. In general, the composite ratio of the two components in the case of being composed of two kinds of polyester components is preferably 70/30 to 30/70 by mass%.
[0008]
The total fineness of the latent crimpable polyester composite fiber is usually 20 to 340 dtex, preferably 44 to 167 dtex. The single yarn fineness is preferably 0.5 to 10 dtex, more preferably 1.5 to 6 dtex. When the single yarn fineness is less than 0.5 dtex, the stretch recovery property when made into a woven fabric may be lowered, and when it exceeds 10 dtex, the texture may become hard.
As for the physical properties of the raw yarn of the latent crimp-generating polyester composite fiber, the strength is preferably 1.8 cN / dtex or more, and more preferably in the range of 2.0 to 4.0 cN / dtex. If the strength is less than 1.8 cN / dtex, the tear strength of the fabric may be low. The elongation is preferably 25% or more, and more preferably in the range of 30 to 50%.
[0009]
The initial crimp resistance of the latently crimpable polyester composite fiber used in the present invention is preferably 10 to 30 cN / dtex, more preferably 20 to 30 cN / dtex, and most preferably 20 to 27 cN / dtex. . Those having an initial tensile resistance of less than 10 cN / dtex are difficult to produce, and if it exceeds 30 cN / dtex, the texture tends to be hard.
The expansion / contraction elongation ratio of the actual crimp of the latent crimp-expressing polyester-based composite fiber is preferably 10 to 100%, more preferably 10 to 80%, and most preferably 10 to 60%. When the expansion / contraction elongation ratio of the actual crimps is less than 10%, it becomes difficult to obtain a woven fabric excellent in stretchability, and it is difficult to produce fibers exceeding 100%.
[0010]
The stretch elastic modulus of the actual crimp of the latent crimp-expressing polyester composite fiber is preferably 80 to 100%, more preferably 85 to 100%, and most preferably 85 to 97%. When the stretch elastic modulus of the actual crimp is less than 80%, it becomes difficult to obtain a woven fabric excellent in stretch recovery.
Further, the heat shrinkage stress at 100 ° C. of the latent crimpable polyester composite fiber is preferably 0.1 to 0.5 cN / dtex, more preferably 0.1 to 0.4 cN / dtex, most preferably. Is 0.1 to 0.3 cN / dtex. The heat shrinkage stress at 100 ° C. is a requirement for developing crimps in the scouring and dyeing process of the fabric. That is, in order to overcome the binding force of the woven fabric and develop crimps, the heat shrinkage stress at 100 ° C. is preferably 0.1 cN / dtex or more, and if it is less than 0.1 cN / dtex, the stretchability and the stretch recovery property It is difficult to obtain a woven fabric excellent in quality, and it is difficult to produce fibers exceeding 0.5 cN / dtex.
[0011]
The expansion / contraction elongation ratio of the latent crimpable polyester composite fiber after the hot water treatment is preferably 100 to 250%, more preferably 150 to 250%, and most preferably 180 to 250%. It is difficult to produce a fiber having a stretch / elongation ratio exceeding 250% after the hot water treatment. The stretch elastic modulus after the hot water treatment is preferably 90 to 100%, more preferably 95 to 100%. The stretchability and stretch recovery after hydrothermal treatment are properties that directly affect the stretchability and stretch recovery feeling after dyeing. The higher these values, the greater the stretchability and stretch recovery feel. An excellent fabric is obtained.
[0012]
As a latent crimp-generating polyester-based composite fiber having such characteristics, a composite composed of a single yarn in which two types of polytrimethylene terephthalate (hereinafter referred to as PTT) having different intrinsic viscosities are combined in a side-by-side manner. Fiber is preferred.
The difference in intrinsic viscosity between the two types of PTT is preferably 0.05 to 0.40 (dl / g), more preferably 0.10 to 0.35 (dl / g), and most preferably 0.15 to 0.35 (dl / g). For example, when the intrinsic viscosity on the high viscosity side is selected from 0.70 to 1.30 (dl / g), the intrinsic viscosity on the low viscosity side is selected from 0.50 to 1.10 (dl / g). Is preferred. The intrinsic viscosity on the low viscosity side is preferably 0.80 (dl / g) or more, more preferably 0.85 to 1.00 (dl / g), and most preferably 0.90 to 1.00 (dl / g). It is.
[0013]
The average intrinsic viscosity of the composite fiber is preferably 0.70 to 1.20 (dl / g), more preferably 0.80 to 1.20 (dl / g), and 0.85 to 1.15 (dl / g). ) Is most preferable, and 0.90 to 1.10 (dl / g) is more preferable.
In addition, the value of the intrinsic viscosity as used in the present invention refers to the viscosity of the spun yarn, not the value of the polymer used. The reason for this is that as a disadvantage inherent to PTT, pyrolysis is likely to occur compared to polyethylene terephthalate (hereinafter referred to as PET) and the like, and even if a polymer with a high intrinsic viscosity is used, the intrinsic viscosity is remarkably lowered due to thermal decomposition. This is because it is difficult to maintain a large difference in intrinsic viscosity between the two in the multifilament.
[0014]
PTT is a polyester having a trimethylene terephthalate unit as a main repeating unit, and contains a trimethylene terephthalate unit in an amount of 50 mol% or more, preferably 70 mol% or more, more preferably 80 mol% or more, and most preferably 90 mol% or more. Say things. Accordingly, the total amount of other acid components and / or glycol components as the third component is in the range of 50 mol% or less, preferably 30 mol% or less, more preferably 20 mol% or less, and most preferably 10 mol% or less. Including PTT.
[0015]
PTT is synthesized by combining terephthalic acid or a functional derivative thereof with trimethylene glycol or a functional derivative thereof in the presence of a catalyst under appropriate reaction conditions. In this synthesis process, an appropriate one or two or more third components may be added to form a copolyester, or polyester other than PTT such as PET and polybutylene terephthalate, or nylon and PTT were synthesized separately. You may blend afterwards. The content of polytrimethylene terephthalate during blending is 50% or more by mass%.
[0016]
Third components to be added include aliphatic dicarboxylic acids (oxalic acid, adipic acid, etc.), alicyclic dicarboxylic acids (cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, etc.), aromatic dicarboxylic acids (isophthalic acid, sodium sulfoisophthalic acid, etc.), fat Aliphatic glycols (ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, tetramethylene glycol, etc.), alicyclic glycols (cyclohexanedimethanol, etc.), aliphatic glycols containing aromatics (1,4-bis (β-hydroxyethoxy) benzene Etc.), polyether glycol (polyethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol etc.), aliphatic oxycarboxylic acid (ω-oxycaproic acid etc.), aromatic oxycarboxylic acid (P-oxybenzoic acid etc.) and the like. In addition, a compound having one or three or more ester-forming functional groups (benzoic acid or the like or glycerin or the like) can be used as long as the polymer is substantially linear.
[0017]
In addition, matting agents such as titanium dioxide, stabilizers such as phosphoric acid, ultraviolet absorbers such as hydroxybenzophenone derivatives, crystallization nucleating agents such as talc, easy lubricants such as aerosil, antioxidants such as hindered phenol derivatives, difficulty A flame retardant, antistatic agent, pigment, fluorescent whitening agent, infrared absorber, antifoaming agent, and the like may be contained.
About the manufacturing method of the latent crimp expression polyester type composite fiber used for the present invention, for example, it is indicated by various above-mentioned JP, and after obtaining an undrawn yarn with a winding speed of 3000 m / min or less, A method of rolling at about 2 to 3.5 times is preferable, but a straight-rolling method (spin draw method) in which the spinning-twisting process is directly connected, a high-speed spinning method (spin take-up method) with a winding speed of 5000 m / min or more. May be adopted.
[0018]
The shape of the fiber may be uniform or thick in the length direction as long as it is a multifilament of long fibers, and the cross-sectional shape is round, triangular, L-shaped, T-shaped, Y-shaped, W-shaped. , Yaba type, flatness (with flatness of about 1.3-4, W type, I type, Boomerang type, wave type, skewer type, eyebrows type, rectangular parallelepiped type, etc.), dog bone type A polygonal shape such as a multi-leaf shape, a hollow shape, or an indeterminate shape may be used.
[0019]
Within the range that does not impair the object of the invention, the warp yarn is 50% by mass or less, preferably 30% by mass or less, more preferably 20% by mass or less, and other fibers such as natural fibers and synthetic fibers, such as cotton. Natural fibers such as wool, hemp and silk, cupra rayon, viscose rayon, polynosic rayon, purified cellulose fiber, acetate fiber, polyester fibers such as polyethylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate and PTT, various artificial fibers such as nylon and acrylic Furthermore, these copolymerization types and composite fibers using the same or different polymers (side-by-side type, eccentric sheath core type, etc.) are mixed with long and short blends (core yarn, silofill, hollow spindle, etc.), covering (single, double), For example, a low shrinkage yarn having a boiling water shrinkage of about 3 to 10% or, for example, boiling water shrinkage May mix the combined filament and 交撚 such a high shrinkage yarn of 15 to 30%.
[0020]
In the present invention, it is important to use the latent crimp-forming polyester composite fiber in the form of false twisted yarn at least for warp.
By disposing the false twisted yarn on the warp yarn in the extending direction, it is possible to impart high snugging durability in addition to excellent stretch properties and stretch recovery properties.
[0021]
The physical properties of the false twisted yarn of the present invention preferably have a strength of 1.5 cN / dtex or more, and more preferably in the range of 1.8 to 4.0 cN / dtex. When the strength is less than 1.5 cN / dtex, the tear strength of the fabric may be lowered. The elastic modulus is preferably less than 22 cN / dtex, and more preferably 12 to 20 cN / dtex. If it exceeds 22 cN / dtex, the softness of the fabric may be deteriorated.
[0022]
As a false twisting method, any method such as a pin type, a friction type, a nip belt type, and an air twisting type can be used, but a pin type is preferable. This is because, according to the pin type, an even crimp state is easily obtained. As the false twisted yarn, it is preferable to use a so-called one-heater false twisted yarn (non-set type) rather than a so-called two-heater false twisted yarn (set type) because a fabric having a higher stretch rate can be obtained. .
[0023]
In order to obtain a false twisted yarn excellent in stretchability, the heat setting temperature during false twisting is preferably in the range of 150 ° C to 190 ° C, and if less than 150 ° C, the recoverability when processed into a woven fabric is reduced, If the temperature exceeds 190 ° C., yarn breakage tends to occur.
As for the number of false twists, it is preferable that the value of the twist coefficient calculated by the following formula is 21000 to 33000, more preferably 25000 to 32000. If the value of the twist coefficient of the false twist is less than 21,000, the crimped property of the resulting processed yarn may be insufficient, and the stretch property may decrease. If it exceeds 33,000, yarn breakage in the false twist process tends to increase. is there.
[0024]
Twist coefficient = twist number (T / m) × √thickness of thread (dtex)
The false-twisted yarn of the latently crimped polyester composite fiber of the present invention has a single crimping yarn constituting the processed yarn in which fine crimps in different directions are mixed in the longitudinal direction, and the fine crimps are each single crimped yarn. It takes a very compact form intertwined between yarns. Therefore, when processed into a woven fabric, unlike conventional false twisted yarns with rough crimps and poor convergence, in stretch performance (stretchability and stretch recovery), snuggling durability and surface smoothness, A remarkable effect can be obtained to the extent that it cannot be compared. Further, this false twisted yarn has an effect of expressing a soft texture and a light feeling when processed into a woven fabric.
[0025]
The apparent crimp elongation of the false twisted yarn is preferably 70 to 300%, more preferably 100 to 300%, and most preferably 120 to 300%. If the actual crimp elongation rate is less than 70%, the extensibility may be insufficient. When the actual crimp elongation rate is 70% or more, not only the crimp expression by heat treatment is easier, but also a smooth narrow fabric can be easily obtained, and thus an excellent stretch fabric can be obtained. it can. It is difficult to produce false twisted yarn having an actual crimp elongation rate exceeding 300%.
[0026]
The apparent crimp elastic modulus of the false twisted yarn is preferably 80 to 100%, more preferably 82 to 100%, and most preferably 85 to 100%. If the actual crimp elastic modulus is less than 80%, a narrow woven fabric excellent in stretch recovery may not be obtained.
The crimp elongation of the false twisted yarn is preferably 100 to 400%, more preferably 120 to 400%. It is difficult to produce false twisted yarn having a crimp elongation exceeding 400%.
[0027]
The crimp elastic modulus of the false twisted yarn is preferably 80 to 100%, more preferably 90 to 100%. Crimp elongation rate and crimp elastic modulus are properties that directly affect the stretchability and stretch back feeling of the final narrow fabric. The higher these values, the greater the stretchability and stretch back feel. An excellent narrow fabric is obtained.
The narrow fabric using at least the false twisted yarn for warp has an elastic recovery rate of 70% or more when stretched 15% in the warp direction, preferably 80% or more, more preferably 90% or more, and most preferably Is 95% or more. When the elastic recovery rate when stretched by 15% in the warp direction is less than 70%, the stretch recovery property (return) of the narrow woven fabric is lowered, and the feeling of close contact (fit feeling) with the body is lowered.
[0028]
Furthermore, the elastic recovery in the warp direction after leaving for 15 minutes under 15% elongation is preferably 70% or more, more preferably 80% or more, and most preferably 90% or more. When the elastic recovery rate in the warp direction after being left for 15 minutes under 15% elongation is less than 70%, the narrow woven fabric is used for a long time (even if it is used once or accumulated in the case of repeated use). Good) When used in a stretched state, the stretch recovery property tends to be low, the feeling of close contact with the body may be lowered, or the so-called loose state may be lost. In addition, support capability may be reduced in support applications such as sports and medical fields.
[0029]
The stretch ratio in the warp direction of the fabric of the present invention is 15% or more. Good The upper limit is preferably 20% or more, and the upper limit is preferably 50% or less. The most preferable stretch ratio is 20% to 40%. When the stretch rate is less than 15%, it is difficult to smoothly follow local and instantaneous movement displacement in the field of sports clothing which is one of the promising uses of the fabric of the present invention. It becomes. When the stretch rate exceeds 50%, the recoverability may deteriorate.
[0030]
Such a false twisted yarn can naturally be used for the weft, but yarns other than the false twisted yarn (monofilament yarn or multifilament yarn) can be used as necessary. For example, a one-component polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber or the above-described latent crimp-expressing polyester fiber is preferable. In addition, polyethylene terephthalate, polyester fiber typified by polybutylene terephthalate, nylon 6, nylon 66, etc. Polyamide fibers, aromatic polyamide fibers, polypropylene fibers and the like can be used.
[0031]
In this case, the form of the fibers and yarns may be long fibers or short fibers, a spun yarn such as a ring spun yarn or an open-end spun yarn, a monofilament yarn, a multifilament yarn having a single yarn denier of about 0.1 to 5 dtex ( Ultra-fine yarns), sweet-twisted yarns to strong-twisted yarns (for example, single yarn twisted yarns, twin yarn twisted yarns, triple-twisted yarns, various twisted yarns, etc.), false twisted yarns (including POY stretched false twisted yarns), fluid jet yarns Yarns, indented yarns, knitted knitted yarns and the like can also be used.
[0032]
In the warp of the narrow woven fabric of the present invention, a false twisted yarn can be used in the form of a single yarn or a double yarn. When a single yarn is subjected to additional twisting, either forward additional twisting (additional twisting in the same direction as the false twisting yarn) or reverse additional twisting (additional twisting in the opposite direction of the false twisting yarn) But you can. In the case of forward twist, the twist coefficient is preferably 900 to 5000, more preferably 900 to 4000, and most preferably 900 to 3000. When the twist coefficient is less than 900, warp yarns may become fluffy and weaving may be difficult, and when it exceeds 5000, the stretchability may deteriorate and the texture may become hard. In the case of reverse twisting, the twisting coefficient is preferably 900 to 8000, more preferably 900 to 7000, most preferably 900 to 5500, and further preferably 900 to 4500. When the twist coefficient is less than 900, the warp may become fluffy and weaving may be difficult, and the surface of the woven fabric may become rough. When it exceeds 8000, the stretchability may be lowered and the texture may be hardened.
[0033]
In the case of a twisted yarn, from the viewpoint of reducing the residual torque of the yarn, the S torque processed yarn (the twisting direction of false twisting is S) and the Z torque processed yarn (the twisting direction of false twisting is Z) are combined. In addition, it is preferable to perform twisting with a twisting coefficient of 900 to 6000, more preferably 900 to 5000, and most preferably 900 to 4000. When the direction of the torque of the false twisted yarns to be combined is the same, the residual torque of the combined twisted yarn is increased, and the process performance may be deteriorated, and the quality of the woven fabric may be impaired due to warpage. When the twisting coefficient is less than 900, the warp yarn may become fluffy and weaving may be difficult, and when it exceeds 6000, the stretchability may deteriorate and the texture may become hard.
[0034]
When dyed in a skein, if the twist coefficient exceeds 6000, the skein of the skein of the skein becomes strong and handling of the yarn becomes difficult, and dyeing occurs in the yarn dyeing process. There is also.
The thickness of the yarn in the twist coefficient refers to the thickness of the composite yarn in the case of a composite yarn such as a double twisted yarn, and the number of twists in that case refers to the upper twist regardless of the presence or absence of the lower twist.
Twist coefficient = twist number (T / m) × √thickness of thread (dtex)
Examples of the twisting method in the case of using a sweet twisted yarn include a method using a ring twisting machine, an Italy twisting machine, a double twister, and the like, but a method using a double twister is preferable in terms of cost reduction and quality improvement (uniformity).
[0035]
In the case of skein-dyed yarn, S / Z plied yarn that is easy to achieve torque balance is preferable because the twisting and twisting of the skein yarn becomes an obstacle when skeined yarn is dyed.
Although the twisted yarn does not necessarily require a twisted set, in order to further improve the handleability of the twisted yarn, it is effective to perform a twisted set at a set temperature of 50 to 90 ° C using a vacuum setter or the like. It is. The set temperature is more preferably 60 to 80 ° C, and most preferably 60 to 70 ° C. If the set temperature is less than 50 ° C., troubles during weaving are likely to occur due to the flickering of the yarn, and if it exceeds 90 ° C., the stretchability of the fabric tends to decrease. The twist set time is preferably 20 to 60 minutes.
[0036]
Regarding the twisted arrangement of the warp yarns, both the single twisted yarn and the twisted yarn may be used, and the S twisted yarn or the Z twisted yarn may be arranged independently, but the S twisted yarn and the Z twisted yarn are preferably arranged alternately, A single alternating arrangement is more preferred. In the case of using a single twisted yarn in one direction, the fabric may curl depending on the textile design standard. In the case of the alternating arrangement, curling is difficult to occur because the untwisting torque is easily balanced. In that case, since the wrinkles of the stranded wire reflection are difficult to occur with one alternating arrangement, the smoothness of the fabric surface is particularly excellent.
[0037]
For the woven structure of the narrow woven fabric of the present invention, a plain structure, a twill structure, a satin structure, a changed structure derived from these, etc. can be used, but the flatness of the fabric surface, stretchability and its recovery performance, 2/1 twill, 2/2 twill, 3/1 twill, 3/2 twill, etc. from a comprehensive viewpoint such as wear resistance (snugging pilling), flexibility, aesthetics (beauty) A compact structure, a double structure, and the like typified by a twill structure, 5 sheet satin, 8 sheet satin, and the like are particularly preferably used. However, it may be appropriately selected according to the purpose, and is not limited to the above-described tissue.
[0038]
When the warp fineness is 20 to 340 dtex, the fabric density of the woven fabric is approximately 50 to 1200 / 2.54 cm, and when the weft fineness is 20 to 340 dtex, the weft density is approximately 30 to 200 / 2.54 cm. Within the range, it is preferable to set appropriately according to the combination of the fabric structure and warp yarn fineness, the use of the fabric, etc., but is not necessarily limited to this range.
As a loom for weaving a fabric, a needle loom, a shuttle loom, or the like is used. A needle loom is preferable from the viewpoint of preventing fuzz of warps and high-speed weaving. However, in the case of weaving with a needle loom, it is necessary to consider that so-called aligning weft insertion, in which two wefts are always driven into one opening by the unique weft insertion mechanism. . Therefore, the above-described example of the weft density is a numerical value when the single weft yarns are aligned and viewed.
[0039]
The narrow woven fabric of the present invention may be a post-dyed fabric that has been dyed and finished after weaving, or may be a pre-dyed fabric that is woven using a pre-dyed yarn. In the case of a pre-dyed fabric using a pre-dyed yarn, it is easy to increase the stretchability of the processed yarn before weaving, compared to the case of post-dying. Therefore, it is easy to obtain a stretch higher than that of the post-dyed fabric, and multicolorization is possible. Therefore, there is an advantage that a pattern can be obtained by color, and the use range of the product can be further expanded.
[0040]
It is desirable to select in consideration of manufacturing cost, product characteristics, and application fields.
About the dyeing finish process of the narrow fabric of this invention, the process similar to the conventional narrow fabric can be used. In both the pre-dye processing method and the post-dye processing method, it is desirable that excessive tension is not applied in the warp direction of the woven fabric so that the excellent stretchability and stretch recovery properties that are the characteristics of the present invention are not impaired. In the case of the post-dyeing processing method, a step of providing a raw machine set can also be adopted.
[0041]
The temperature of the heat setting in the processing step is preferably 130 ° C. to 180 ° C., more preferably 140 ° C. to 170 ° C., and most preferably 150 ° C. to 160 ° C., in terms of the texture of the processing reaction and the setting effect (residual shrinkage). is there.
In order to further improve the abrasion resistance of the woven fabric, it may be impregnated with a water-soluble polyurethane resin having excellent abrasion resistance as a finishing agent and a flexible resin film. Furthermore, a silicone-based smoothing agent may be blended in the resin liquid in order to improve the surface smoothness of the fabric and the slipping property between the fibers, and to improve the stress dispersibility, elastic recovery and durability. . Furthermore, you may provide water-repellent processing etc. as needed.
[0042]
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
EXAMPLES Hereinafter, although an Example demonstrates this invention concretely, this invention is not limited to these Examples at all.
Evaluation methods used in the present invention are as follows.
(1) Intrinsic viscosity
The intrinsic viscosity [η] (dl / g) is a value obtained based on the definition of the following formula.
[Η] = Lim (ηr−1) / C
C → 0
Ηr in the formula is the viscosity of a diluted solution of polytrimethylene terephthalate yarn or polyethylene terephthalate yarn dissolved in a 0-chlorophenol solvent with a purity of 98% or more, divided by the viscosity of the solvent measured at the same temperature. Which is defined as relative viscosity. C is the polymer concentration expressed in g / 100 ml.
[0043]
In addition, since it is difficult to measure the intrinsic viscosity of each of the multifilaments that use polymers having different intrinsic viscosities, the two types of polymers can be separated under the same spinning conditions as the multifilament. The intrinsic viscosity measured using the yarn obtained by spinning alone was defined as the intrinsic viscosity constituting the composite multifilament.
[0044]
(2) Initial tensile resistance
In accordance with the test method for initial tensile resistance of the JIS L 1013 chemical fiber filament yarn test method, a tensile test was performed by applying an initial load of 0.882 mN / dtex per unit fineness of the sample. The tensile resistance (cN / dtex) is calculated. Arbitrarily 10 samples are taken and measured, and the average value is obtained.
[0045]
(3) Stretch elongation rate and stretch modulus
Measurement is performed according to the stretchability test method A of the JIS L 1090 bulky processed yarn test method of JIS L 1090, and the stretch elongation rate (%) and the stretch elastic modulus (%) are calculated. Arbitrarily 10 samples are taken and measured, and the average value is obtained.
The expansion / contraction elongation ratio and the expansion / contraction elastic modulus of the actual crimp are measured after leaving the sample unwound from the winding package in an environment of a temperature of 20 ± 2 ° C. and a relative humidity of 65 ± 2% for 24 hours. As the stretch elongation rate and stretch elastic modulus after the hot water treatment, a sample which was immersed in 98 ° C. hot water with no load for 30 minutes and then naturally dried and dried for 24 hours without load is used.
[0046]
(4) Thermal contraction stress
Using a thermal stress measuring device (trade name KE-2, manufactured by Kanebo Engineering Co., Ltd.), the sample is cut to a length of 20 cm, both ends are connected to form a ring, and the initial load is 0.044 cN / dtex. Then, the shrinkage stress is measured at a temperature rising rate of 100 ° C./min, and the heat shrinkage stress at 100 ° C. is read from the change curve of the heat shrinkage stress with respect to the obtained temperature.
[0047]
(5) The actual crimp elongation and the apparent crimp elastic modulus of false twisted yarn
Using a tensile tester manufactured by Shimadzu Corporation, the initial load of 0.9 × 10 is applied to the false twisted yarn at a gripping interval of 10 cm. -3 After attaching with CN / dtex, the sample is stretched at a tensile speed of 10 cm / min, and the elongation (%) when a stress of 0.0882 CN / dtex is reached is defined as the actual crimp elongation rate. Then, after shrinking again to the grip interval of 10 cm at the same speed, a stress-strain curve is drawn again, and the extension length until the initial load stress is expressed is defined as the residual length A (cm). The actual crimp elastic modulus is obtained by the following formula.
Apparent crimp elastic modulus = [(10−A) / 10] × 100 (%)
[0048]
(6) Crimp elongation and crimp elastic modulus of false twisted yarn
Except that the false twisted yarn unwound from the winding package was immersed in 98 ° C. hot water for 20 minutes under no load and then dried for 24 hours under no load, and the actual crimped elongation and elongation were used. It measures by the method similar to the measurement of an actual crimp elastic modulus, and let each be a crimp elongation rate and a crimp elastic modulus.
[0049]
(7) Stretch rate of narrow fabric
The stretch ratio in the warp direction of the narrow woven fabric is measured by the following method using the finishing process.
Using a tensile tester manufactured by Shimadzu Corporation, a sample with a grip width of 2.5 cm (if the fabric width is less than 2.5 cm, there is a grip width), a grip interval of 10 cm, and a tensile speed of 10 cm / min. Is stretched in the warp direction (longitudinal direction of the narrow fabric), and the length B (cm) under a stress of 2.94 N / cm is measured.
The stretch rate is determined according to the following formula.
Stretch rate = [(B-10) / 10] × 100%
[0050]
(8) Elastic recovery rate when narrow fabric is stretched by 15%
Using a tensile tester manufactured by Shimadzu Corporation, the grip width is 2.5 cm (if the fabric width is less than 2.5 cm, there is a grip width), the grip interval is 10 cm, and the tensile speed is 10 cm / min. After stretching to an elongation rate of 15%, shrink at the same speed to draw a stress-strain curve. The extension length when the stress becomes zero during the contraction is defined as a residual length C (cm). The elastic recovery rate is obtained according to the following formula.
Elastic recovery at 15% elongation = [(10−C) / 10] × 100%
[0051]
(9) Elastic recovery after leaving a narrow woven fabric for 15 minutes under 15% elongation in the warp direction
Using a tensile tester manufactured by Shimadzu Corporation, the grip width is 2.5 cm (if the fabric width is less than 2.5 cm, there is a grip width), the grip interval is 10 cm, and the tensile speed is 10 cm / min. Elongates to 15%. After leaving in this state for 15 minutes, it is shrunk at the same speed to draw a stress-strain curve. The extension length when the stress becomes 0 during shrinkage is defined as a residual length D (cm). The elastic recovery rate is obtained according to the following formula.
Elastic recovery after standing for 15 minutes under 15% elongation = [(10−D) / 10] × 100%
[0052]
[Reference Example 1]
Production of latent crimped polyester fiber
Multi-filaments of side-by-side composite fibers having different intrinsic viscosities were produced according to Production Examples 1 to 4 below.
[0053]
(Production Example 1)
Two types of polytrimethylene terephthalate having different intrinsic viscosities are extruded into a side-by-side mold at a mass ratio of 1: 1 using a side-by-side type composite spinning nozzle, and an undrawn yarn is produced at a spinning temperature of 265 ° C. and a spinning speed of 1500 m / min. Obtained. Subsequently, the hot roll temperature was 55 ° C., the hot plate temperature was 140 ° C., the stretching speed was 400 m / min, the stretching ratio was set so that the fineness after stretching was 56 dtex, and the film was bonded to a 56 dtex / 12f side-by-side mold. A multifilament made of a latently crimped polyester composite fiber was obtained.
[0054]
The intrinsic viscosity of the obtained side-by-side type composite fiber multifilament was 0.90 on the high viscosity side and 0.70 on the low viscosity side. Table 1 shows the initial tensile resistance, the stretch elongation / stretch elastic modulus of the actual crimp, the stretch elongation / stretch elastic modulus after the hot water treatment, and the heat shrinkage stress at 100 ° C.
[0055]
(Production Example 2)
In the same manner as in Production Example 1, 84 dtex / 24f side-by-side composite fiber multifilament was obtained.
The intrinsic viscosity of the obtained composite fiber multifilament was 0.88 on the high viscosity side and 0.70 on the low viscosity side. Table 1 shows the initial tensile resistance, the stretch elongation / stretch elastic modulus of the actual crimp, the stretch elongation / stretch elastic modulus after the hot water treatment, and the heat shrinkage stress at 100 ° C.
[0056]
(Production Example 3)
Two types of polytrimethylene terephthalate having different intrinsic viscosities from those of Production Example 1 were used, and spinning was performed in the same manner as in Production Example 1 to obtain a 56 dtex / 24f side-by-side type composite fiber multifilament.
The intrinsic viscosity of the obtained composite fiber multifilament was 0.86 on the high viscosity side and 0.69 on the low viscosity side. Table 1 shows the initial tensile resistance, the stretch elongation / stretch elastic modulus of the actual crimp, the stretch elongation / stretch elastic modulus after the hot water treatment, and the heat shrinkage stress at 100 ° C.
[0057]
(Production Example 4)
Using two types of polyethylene terephthalate having different intrinsic viscosities, a 56 dtex / 12 f side-by-side type composite fiber multifilament was obtained. The intrinsic viscosity of the obtained composite fiber multifilament was 0.66 on the high viscosity side and 0.50 on the low viscosity side. Table 1 shows the initial tensile resistance, the stretch elongation / stretch elastic modulus of the actual crimp, the stretch elongation / stretch elastic modulus after the hot water treatment, and the heat shrinkage stress at 100 ° C.
[0058]
(Production Example 5)
One component PTT multifilament 84 dtex / 24f with an intrinsic viscosity of 0.92 was produced.
Table 1 shows the initial tensile resistance, the stretch elongation / stretch elastic modulus of the actual crimp, the stretch elongation / stretch elastic modulus after the hot water treatment, and the heat shrinkage stress at 100 ° C.
[0059]
[Reference Example 2]
Manufacture of false twisted yarn
Using the composite fiber multifilament obtained in the above production example, IVF-338 manufactured by Ishikawa Seisakusho Co., Ltd., the first heater temperature is 170 ° C. (only Comparative Example 1 is 220 ° C.), the twisting direction is Z-twist, false twist Was false twisted under conditions of 56 dtex of 3900 T / m and 84 dtex of 3200 T / m.
[0060]
The composite fiber multifilament of Production Example 1 in Example 1, Production Example 2 in Example 2, Production Example 3 in Example 3, Production Example 4 in Comparative Example 1, Production Example 5 in Comparative Example 2, Each was used.
The false twisted yarns of Examples 1 to 3 have an apparent crimp elongation of 180 to 200%, an actual crimp elastic modulus of 85 to 90%, a crimp elongation of 200 to 250%, and a crimp elastic modulus of 85 to 93%. there were. The false twisted yarn of Comparative Example 1 has an apparent crimp elongation of 10%, an apparent crimp elastic modulus of 88%, a crimp elongation of 130%, and a crimp elastic modulus of 64%. The actual crimp elongation rate was 65%, the actual crimp elastic modulus was 55%, the crimp elongation rate was 180%, and the crimp elastic modulus was 80%.
[0061]
[Example 1]
The false twisted yarn produced in Production Example 1 was subjected to 180 t / m additional twisting in the S twist direction using a double twister (Murata Kikai Co., Ltd., DT- # 308), and then a vacuum setter (Nippon Industries) (Made by Co., Ltd.) using a twisted set at 60 ° C. for 40 minutes as a warp, and using a non-twisted yarn of false twisted yarn of regular PET multifilament 84dtex / 36f as a weft. A woven fabric of a narrow-width woven fabric having a green density of 830 warps / 2.54 cm, 55 wefts / 2.54 cm, and a double-faced double-leaf satin structure (number of flying: 3) having a width of 17 mm was woven.
[0062]
This raw machine was dry-heated at 130 ° C., relaxed at 100 ° C. in a skein shape, and dyed with a disperse dye at 120 ° C. Subsequently, a low-tension cylinder finish set at 130 ° C. was performed to obtain a narrow woven fabric having a density of 880 yarns / 2.54 cm, a weft of 75 yarns / 2.54 cm, and a width of 16 mm.
The obtained narrow fabric has a stretch rate of 36% in the warp direction, and as shown in Table 2, the elastic recovery rate at 15% elongation (instant) and the elasticity after standing for 15 minutes under 15% elongation Both recovery rates had excellent elongation recovery properties. The texture was soft and a light feeling was felt.
[0063]
[Example 2]
A false twisted yarn manufactured in Production Example 2 was subjected to a 150 t / m additional twist in the S twist direction using a double twister (manufactured by Murata Machine Co., Ltd., DT- # 308), and then a vacuum setter (Nippon Industries) (Manufactured by Co., Ltd.) was used as warp. Other than that, the same as in Example 1, a narrow-width woven fabric having a green density of 680 yarns / 2.54 cm, a weft of 56 yarns / 2.54 cm, and a double-sided, five-leaf satin structure (number of flying: 3) I got a life machine. Then, finishing similar to that of Example 1 was performed to obtain a narrow woven fabric having a density of 722 warps / 2.54 cm, 79 wefts / 2.54 cm, and a width of 16 mm.
[0064]
The obtained narrow woven fabric has a stretch rate of 41% in the warp direction. As shown in Table 2, the elastic recovery rate at 15% elongation (instant) and the elasticity after standing for 15 minutes under 15% elongation Both recovery rates had excellent elongation recovery properties. The texture was soft and a light feeling was felt.
[0065]
[Example 3]
Except that the false twisted yarn produced in Production Example 3 was used as the warp, it was exactly the same as Example 1 except that the raw machine density was 826 warps / 2.54 cm, weft 55 / 2.54 cm, double-sided 5 with a width of 17 mm. A living machine of a narrow woven fabric having a sheet structure (number of flights: 3) was obtained. Subsequently, the same finishing process as in Example 1 was performed to obtain a narrow-width woven fabric having a density of 874 warps / 2.54 cm, 74 wefts / 2.54 cm, and a width of 16 mm.
[0066]
The obtained narrow fabric has a stretch rate of 35% in the warp direction, and as shown in Table 2, the elastic recovery rate at 15% elongation (instant) and the elasticity after standing for 15 minutes under 15% elongation Both recovery rates had excellent elongation recovery properties. The texture was soft and a light feeling was felt.
[0067]
[Comparative Example 1]
Except that the false twisted yarn produced in Production Example 4 was used as the warp, exactly as in Example 1, the raw machine density was 828 warps / 2.54 cm, 55 wefts / 2.54 cm, double-sided 5 with a width of 17 mm. A living machine of a narrow woven fabric having a sheet structure (number of flights: 3) was obtained. Next, finishing was carried out in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the dyeing temperature was 130 ° C., and a narrow-width woven fabric having a density of 876 warps / 2.54 cm, 61 wefts / 2.54 cm, and a width of 16 mm. Obtained.
[0068]
The obtained narrow woven fabric has a low stretch rate of 10% in the warp direction, and as shown in Table 2, the elastic recovery rate at 15% elongation (instant) and the elasticity after standing for 15 minutes under 15% elongation Both recovery rates were extremely low, and they were not suitable for sports clothing.
[0069]
[Comparative Example 2]
Except that the false twisted yarn obtained in Production Example 5 was used as the warp, the double-sided 5 with a green machine density of 676 yarns / 2.54 cm, a weft of 56 yarns / 2.54 cm and a width of 17 mm, exactly as in Example 2. A living machine of a narrow woven fabric having a sheet structure (number of flights: 3) was obtained. Next, the same finishing process as in Example 1 was performed to obtain a narrow woven fabric having a density of 718 yarns / 2.54 cm, a weft of 65 yarns / 2.54 cm, and a width of 16 mm.
[0070]
Although the obtained narrow fabric had a warp direction stretch of 16%, as shown in Table 2, the elastic recovery rate at 15% elongation (instant) and the elasticity after standing for 15 minutes under 15% elongation Both recovery rates were low, and they were not suitable for uses such as sports clothing.
[0071]
[Table 1]
[0072]
[Table 2]
[0073]
【The invention's effect】
The present invention is a narrow woven fabric having not only a stretch function but also a softer wearing feeling and a lighter feeling, and also a high durability stretch function and excellent snugging resistance.
This narrow fabric is suitable for side lines and suspenders for sports clothing, rubber straps, inner clothing straps, inside belts, waist belts for pants, goggles bands, seam holding tapes, medical supporters, corsets, etc. Very useful.

Claims (3)

  1. The warp yarn is a narrow-width woven fabric having a width in the range of 3 to 330 mm composed of false twisted yarn, and the false twist yarn is composed of two or more kinds of polyester components, and at least one of the components Is a polytrimethylene terephthalate latent crimpable polyester composite fiber, has an elastic recovery of 70% or more when stretched 15% in the warp direction , and a stretch ratio of 15% or more in the warp direction. A narrow woven fabric characterized by being.
  2. 2. The narrow woven fabric according to claim 1, wherein the elastic recovery rate after leaving the narrow woven fabric for 15 minutes under 15% elongation in the warp direction is 70% or more.
  3. 2. The narrow woven fabric according to claim 1, wherein an apparent crimp elongation rate of the false twisted yarn is 70% or more.
JP2002142820A 2002-05-17 2002-05-17 Narrow fabric Expired - Fee Related JP3963356B2 (en)

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP2009019291A (en) * 2007-07-10 2009-01-29 Asahi Kasei Fibers Corp Narrow woven or knitted fabric
CN102016144A (en) * 2008-04-25 2011-04-13 旭化成纤维株式会社 Thin woven fabric
JP5095556B2 (en) * 2008-08-18 2012-12-12 ユニチカトレーディング株式会社 Latent crimped monofilament yarns and fabrics
KR102099141B1 (en) * 2019-11-25 2020-04-09 주식회사 비상텍스 Elastic band with excellent elongation used for brief or boxer, and men's brief or boxer including the same

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