JPH0692292B2 - Cosmetics - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to a skin beautifying cosmetic composition containing a skin beautifying component having a wound healing action, and having a good feeling in use and stability. More specifically, the present invention provides a cosmetic base containing rosmarinic acid and / or a salt of rosmarinic acid as an active ingredient in a proportion of 0.000 based on the total amount of the cosmetic.
The present invention provides a cosmetic for beautiful skin characterized by being blended in an amount of 01 to 5% by weight.

Since ancient times, many basic cosmetics have been proposed for the purpose of skin conditioning, beautiful skin, whitening, etc., and some effects were obtained. The present invention, as a result of intensive research and search for natural active ingredients from the viewpoints of wound healing action and cell activating action, rosmarinic acid and / or its salt has a favorable action on the skin, that is, an effect of skin smoothing and a cosmetic composition for hair. When it was used, they discovered that it also had a hair-growth effect, and completed the present invention. That is, the present invention relates to a cosmetic for beautiful skin which is characterized by incorporating rosmarinic acid and / or a salt thereof as an active ingredient into a cosmetic base. Rosmarinic acid has the following formula (1) In the natural world, it is mainly present in Lamiaceae plants. For example, Mannenrou, Aojiso,
It is contained in Chirimenjiso, Kawamidori, and Enmeiso.
Rosmarinic acid can be extracted from these plants by various separation methods. It is known that rosmarinic acid has an antioxidant effect, and can be produced by synthetic means.

Next, when describing the method for producing rosmarinic acid, most plants used for production can be used if they are Lamiaceae plants.
smarinus officinalis L) and Chile menjiso (Perilla
It is advantageous to use frutescens L). For example, mannen wax is taken as an example. First, dried leaves of mannen wax are roughly crushed, and a first-stage extraction operation is performed using water or an organic solvent which is mixed with water at any ratio. After distilling off the organic solvent from the extract extracted with the above solvent, an appropriate amount of water is added, and the aqueous layer is washed with a halogenated solvent such as chloroform and chloromethylene, and a relatively low polar solvent such as ethyl ether. Perform the second step of doing. Next, the washed aqueous layer is adjusted to pH 3 with an inorganic acid or an organic acid. The aqueous layer adjusted to around pH 3 is subjected to a third stage extraction operation using a relatively polar organic solvent such as ethyl acetate or butanol. In this way rosmarinic acid
An extract containing 35 to 50% is obtained. If the solvent selection operation is appropriate, the concentration of rosmarinic acid will be 40% or more if the above three steps are performed. Next, the extract containing rosmarinic acid at a high concentration is purified using a resin column using a water-methanol solvent to obtain rosmarinic acid having a purity of 95 to 99%.

Conventionally, there is no practical use of rosmarinic acid and / or its salt thus produced in cosmetics, and it can be said that this substance has a beautiful skin- and skin-conditioning action based on the wound healing promoting effect. Not known at all.

In the past, Lamiaceae plants such as mannose wax, which is said to contain a lot of rosmarinic acid, also known as rosemary grass, water of life-prolonging grass,
It has been known for a long time to add an alcohol extract to cosmetics, but since the content of rosmarinic acid in the extract is only 0.5 to 1%, the solvent extract of the Labiatae family is added. Even with such cosmetics, the content rate was extremely small, a practical wound healing effect could not be obtained, and sufficient skin beautifulness and skin conditioning effect could not be obtained.

In general, water and alcohol extracts of Lamiaceae plants are very dark yellow-brown to green-brown, and most of them have a strong specific odor. Since the aqueous extract contains a lot of sugars and tannins, it easily rots and tastes very astringent. When the extract in such a state is blended in a cosmetic at a high concentration, the blending amount and the dosage form are significantly limited, which is a fatal defect as a blending agent. If it is forcibly blended, the organoleptic or tactile function is significantly reduced.
In particular, this tendency becomes more and more apparent as the compounding amount increases, and therefore, in the past, only a very small amount was added as a practical compounding amount. The rosmarinic acid and / or its salt used in the skin-care and skin-care cosmetics of the present invention is a pale yellow, odorless powder, easy to handle, and miscible with other cosmetic ingredients. It has excellent solubility and can be applied to all dosage forms.

In the cosmetic for beautiful skin of the present invention, rosmarinic acid may be used as its salt, as described above. When used as a salt, the solubility in water is increased, which is particularly preferable for use in lotion. When using rosmarinic acid as a salt, basic substances for forming the salt include inorganic bases such as sodium hydroxide and magnesium hydroxide, basic amino acids such as arginine and histidine, organic bases such as monoethanolamine and triethanolamine. Is used. The above-mentioned salt may be prepared in advance and then added, or the salt-forming components may be added separately and reacted in a formulation system to form a salt.

In the cosmetic for beautiful skin of the present invention, any one kind or two or more kinds can be selected and used from the group consisting of the rosmarinic acid and / or its salt. The mixing ratio is
The amount may be in the range of 0.0001 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 3% by weight, based on the total amount of the cosmetic, and the compounding ratio does not have to exceed 5% by weight.

Further, a cosmetic containing a water-soluble polymer substance in addition to the rosmarinic acid and / or its salt has a more desirable skin beautifulness and skin conditioning effect. These are probably
It is considered that the water-soluble polymer substance becomes a vehicle on the skin, which effectively transfers rosmarinic acid, which is an active ingredient, to the stratum corneum to increase percutaneous absorption.
Such a water-soluble polymer substance has a molecular weight of 2,000 or more, and examples thereof include polypeptides, soluble collagen, mucopolysaccharides, hyaluronic acid, gums, casein, dextrin, gelatin, pectin, and the like. Of these, one type or two or more types are used. The cosmetic base used in the skin beautifying cosmetic of the present invention may be any base as long as it is a base usually used in skin beautifying cosmetics, and is not particularly limited. Specific dosage forms include cream, ointment, emulsion, lotion, pack and the like. For example, as a cream base, beeswax, stearyl alcohol,
Stearic acid, glycerin, propylene glycol, propylene glycol monostearate, polyoxyethylene cetyl ether, squalane, etc., vinyl acetate resin emulsion as a pack base, polyvinyl alcohol, ethanol, etc., and oleyl alcohol, ethanol as a lotion base. , Propylene glycol, glycerin, lauryl ether, sorbitan monolaurate and the like. The cosmetics of the present invention may be prepared as appropriate forms of cosmetics such as creams, packs, lotions, etc. by using these raw materials as appropriate. Next, an example of the method for producing rosmarinic acid of the present invention will be shown.

Production Example-1 500 g of dried leaves of Lamiaceae plant mannen wax are roughly crushed by a crusher, and 3 l of a solvent in which acetone and water are mixed in a volume of 7: 3 is added thereto, and digestion is performed with stirring. Filter for about 30 minutes after extraction. This operation is repeated twice, the filtrates are collected, concentrated under reduced pressure and concentrated, and when the extracted extract reaches about 300 ml, this extract is washed with 500 ml of ethyl ether. When this operation is repeated twice, the extract becomes a brown transparent state. Little rosmarinic acid is detected in the washed ethyl ether extract. Use the above clear solution with hydrochloric acid
Adjust to pH3. After preparation, this solution is extracted with 500 ml of ethyl acetate. This operation is repeated three times, and the extracts are collected, decompressed, concentrated and dried to obtain 16 g of a pale tan powder extract. Next, take 10g of this powder extract and use Toyo Pearl HW-
Purity of 95 to 99% when purified using 300 ml of 40 (Toyo Soda Kogyo) and methanol / water = 1/1 as solvent
To obtain 4.8 g of rosmarinic acid (yield 1.54% from the raw material).

Production Example-2 2 kg of dried leaves of the Lamiaceae plant Chili Menjiso are cut into small pieces with a width of about 5 mm, 20 l of a mixed solvent of methanol / water = 1/1 is added thereto, and the mixture is cold-soaked at room temperature for 3 days. Filter. This operation is repeated twice, and the filtrate is collected, depressurized and concentrated, and the concentration is stopped when the extracted extract reaches about 2 liters. At this time, the extract is a reddish purple suspension. The concentrated extract is then washed with 700 ml of methylene chloride. When this operation is repeated twice, the extract becomes transparent magenta. Almost no rosmarinic acid is detected in the washed methylene chloride part. The above red-purple transparent solution is adjusted to about pH 3 with phosphoric acid. After preparation, this solution is extracted with n-butanol 1. This operation is repeated 3 times, and the extracts are collected, decompressed, concentrated and dried to obtain 50 g of brown powder extract. Taking 10 g of this powder extract and purifying it with 300 ml of Sephadex LH-20 (Pharmacia Japan Co., Ltd.) using methanol / water = 1/3 as a solvent, 5.2 g of rosmarinic acid with a purity of 95 to 98% was obtained. Is obtained (yield 1.3% from the raw material).

Production Example-3 2 kg of dried whole plant of Lamiaceae plant life-prolonging grass was cut into small pieces of about 5 mm width by a cutting machine, and ethanol / water = 95: 5
15 l of the solvent mixed with the above was added, and the mixture was cold soaked at room temperature for 3 days and then filtered. This operation is repeated twice, and the filtrates are collected, depressurized and concentrated. When the extract has reached about 300 ml, about 700 ml of water is added to this extract to make about 1. At this time, the extract is in a suspended state. The extract is then washed with 500 ml chloroform. When this operation is repeated twice, the extract becomes transparent and brown. Rosmarinic acid does not transfer to the washed chloroform part. The above clear solution is adjusted to around pH 3 with citric acid. After preparation, this solution is extracted with 500 ml of methyl ethyl ketone. This operation was repeated 3 times, and the extracts were collected, decompressed, concentrated and dried to obtain 30 g of a light brown powder extract (yield 1.5%). Take 10g of this powder extract and use methanol / water as solvent = 1/1
Purification by using two columns, namely Toyopearl HW-40 and Sephadex LH-20, successively gives 4 g of rosmarinic acid having a purity of 99% (yield 0.6%).

Next, in order to further explain the usefulness of the skin-care cosmetic of the present invention, a test for the wound healing action of rosmarinic acid was conducted, and the results are shown in Table 2. The test method is as follows.

<Sample> Oil-in-water cream containing no rosmarinic acid (Comparative Example-1), containing 0.2% (Example-1),
Those containing 2% (Example-2) and the above three samples are prepared as shown in Table 1 below.

Wound healing test As experimental animals, forty 40-week-old SD rats, which had been preliminarily bred for 7 days after purchase, were divided into groups I to IV, and 10 animals each were used. First, the backs of the rats in each group are shaved using an electric clipper, and cleaned with water-ethanol 3: 7 antiseptic solution impregnated in absorbent cotton. After that, round chisel (φ11m
4) using left and right skin defect along the midline
Create a place. Next, the group I was set as an untreated group, and the group II was applied once daily with the cream of Comparative Example-1 and then III
Similarly, the creams of Experimental Example-1 and the cream of Example-2 were respectively applied to Groups IV and IV. Apply all samples 1 times a day
Time 0.1g per damaged site. The observation was performed once a day by measuring the wound area and observing with the naked eye. The wound area (mm ² ) in each group was the average value of 10 animals (rounded to the second decimal place), and the healing rate was calculated by the following formula.

As described above, the cosmetics containing rosmarinic acid have an excellent wound healing effect and quick recovery of wounds.
The skin condition after the complete cure (20th day) was also in the untreated group and Comparative Example-1.
It was beautiful compared to the group.

Next, the cosmetics applied to the present invention were subjected to sensory evaluation after 20 days of continuous clinical test, and the results are shown in Table 3. At this time, the emollient cream of Example 3 described later was used as the product of the present invention, and the emollient cream of Example 3 from which rosmarinic acid was removed was used as a control product.

The test method is as follows.

Clinical test: Ten women were panelists, and the control product was applied to the outer part of the left upper arm twice a day, and the product of the present invention was applied to the outer part of the upper right arm twice a day in the same manner as in normal use, and this was continued for 20 days. Four items of skin sensation, gloss, smoothness, and freshness as sensory evaluation items were evaluated according to the following criteria, and the average value of 10 persons (rounded to the second decimal place) was used as the evaluation point.

As described above, by continuously applying the cosmetic composition applied to the present invention to the skin, the cosmetic composition exhibits a favorable effect on the skin's elasticity, gloss, smoothness, freshness and the like.

Further, regarding the hair nourishing agent of Example-5, a hair nourishing effect was confirmed in a clinical test, although the number of cases was small.

"Example" Next, the Example of this invention is shown. Examples 1 and 2 are as shown in Table 1 above. Hereinafter, the blending amount is part by weight.

Example-3 Emollient Cream Formulation A above is mixed and heated to 80 ° C. To the product, the above-mentioned formulation B was similarly mixed and heated to 80 ° C., uniformly emulsified with a homomixer, and the above-mentioned C was added and cooled to obtain a product.

Example-4 Emulsion Formulation B above is mixed and heated to 70 ° C. The above-mentioned formulation A was similarly mixed and heated to 70 ° C., and then uniformly emulsified with a homomixer and cooled to obtain a product.

Example-5 Hair nourishing agent The formulation A was dissolved with stirring, and the formulation B was added to and mixed with the formulation A to obtain a transparent liquid hair nourishing agent.

Example-6 Lotion The above-mentioned formulations A and B are dissolved by heating, and A is added to B to solubilize it to obtain a product.

Front page continuation (72) Inventor Haruko Sano, 648 Yayoi-cho, Shizuoka, Shizuoka Prefecture, POLA CHEMICAL INDUSTRIES CO., LTD. A) JP-A-59-155307 (JP, A)

Claims (3)

[Claims] 1. A cosmetic material comprising rosmarinic acid and / or a salt thereof. 2. The cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein rosmarinic acid is obtained by extracting from a Lamiaceae plant. 3. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the cosmetic composition contains a water-soluble polymer substance.