JPH04352833A - Multifilament yarn for wool interlining - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To obtain a filament yarn for a wool interlining having performance more excellent than a conventional wool interlining and capable of expressing color tone which a high-grade wool interlining has apparently. CONSTITUTION:Multifilament yarn composed of uncolored filament yarn being >=50mum in diameter of the constituting single filament and multifilament yarn colored into brown or black and having coarseness smaller than that of the uncolored filament yarn and in which these filament yarns are combined with each other by twisting or covering.

Description

[Detailed description of the invention]

0001

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a multifilament yarn for wool interlining. More specifically, it is a composite wool interlining that has excellent basic performance as an interlining such as bending properties and surface properties, and has characteristics suitable for forming an interlining that has an appearance extremely similar to that of real horse wool interlining. Regarding multifilament yarn for use.

0002

[Prior Art] Interlining is the backbone of clothing, and has roles such as tension to maintain the silhouette and prevention of deformation due to wear and washing, and is indispensable for maintaining the shape of clothing. . Among these, wool interlining exhibits characteristics that cannot be replaced by other interlining materials for men's clothing, especially thick clothing such as suits and coats.
It has unique demand as a front interlining material, shoulder padding material, chest padding material, etc.

[0003] The wool interlining is a woven fabric, and its structure is mainly a plain weave. Although the warp threads of textiles do not require as strong a tension as the weft threads, they do require a certain degree of hardness as an interlining, so relatively hard wool is generally used, as well as yarns tied with cotton threads, polyester, and bis. Spun yarn such as coarse rayon is used.

On the other hand, weft yarns are used to provide tension and stiffness, which are the lifeblood of the wool core, so determining the specifications of the yarns to be used is very important in designing the interlining material. When the thickness of the yarn is constant, the relationship between the thickness of the constituent single fibers and the number of single fibers is inversely proportional, but the bending hardness of the single fibers is proportional to the fourth power of the single fiber diameter, and is equal to the 2nd denier. Since the thickness is proportional to the multiplication factor, whether it is a filament yarn or a spun yarn, it is desirable that each constituent single fiber has a large thickness if possible.

[0005] For this reason, animal hair or human hair is usually used for the weft. All of these are short fibrous, so
It is used by blending it with other man-made fibers such as staple cotton. Animal hair such as wool, mohair, cashmere, goat hair, camel hair, and horsetail hair, as well as human hair, have a black or brown color. Therefore, the wool interlining develops a unique color tone. This color tone helps to enhance the character of the wool interlining material.

[0006] By the way, since the interlining should not be too thick and should have elasticity, it is desired that the thickness of the constituent fibers be as large as possible and the thickness of the entire yarn be small to some extent. It is difficult to meet these requirements with spun yarns made only of thick fibers such as animal hair and human hair. If yarn were made only from this type of raw material, the yarn would exceed the appropriate thickness for interlining.

However, since multifilament yarns can satisfy both of the above-mentioned requirements for interlining, multifilament yarns made of, for example, viscose rayon or polyester are recognized as suitable for interlining. Unfortunately, although the interlining made from these materials has good elasticity, it has a white appearance, or even if dyed, it has a single color, and it does not have the high-class appearance of wool.

[0008]

[Problems to be Solved by the Invention] An object of the present invention is to provide a hair core that has superior performance than conventional hair interlinings and is capable of expressing the color tones of high-quality wool interlinings in terms of appearance. The purpose of the present invention is to provide a multifilament yarn for ground use.

[0009]

[Means for Solving the Problems] The present invention provides an uncolored multifilament yarn whose component single fibers have a diameter of 50 μm or more, and a brown or black colored multifilament yarn smaller in thickness than the filament yarn. This is a multifilament yarn for wool interlining, characterized in that these filament yarns are combined by twisting or covering.

[0010] The present invention will be described in detail below with respect to its preferred embodiments. The multifilament yarn for woolen interlining of the present invention is composed of a plurality of filament yarns, and the thickness and color of each filament yarn, the thickness of the single fibers that make up the filament yarn, and the composite of the filament yarns. It has a distinctive style.

Mainly used in the present invention in terms of thickness,
The filament yarn is a part that supports the tension and stiffness of the interlining, and its constituent single fibers have a diameter of 50 μm or more. If the thickness varies, use the average diameter, and if the cross-sectional shape is non-circular, use the diameter converted to a circle. The thickness of the filament yarn is 600 to 1500 deniers, preferably 900 to 1200 deniers. It does not matter whether it is twisted or untwisted.

[0012] The other filament yarn is smaller in thickness than the above filament yarn and is colored. An appropriate range of the thickness ratio of the colored filament yarn to the non-colored yarn is preferably 1:3 to 1:15. In this case, there are no restrictions on the constituent single fibers, but they may be considerably smaller than non-colored ones. The coloring may be done by solution dyeing or by dyeing the filament yarn. The color is black or brown, and a color between these or white is best.

The colored filament yarn may be a combination of two or more filament yarns having different hues. Two different colored yarns and a non-colored yarn may be triple-twisted. From the viewpoint of bending elastic modulus, viscose rayon or polyester is suitable as the material for the multifilament yarn for wool interlining of the present invention. Comparing the two, polyester has a bouncy elasticity, while viscose rayon has excellent drapability and shrinkage. Polyamide is the next best choice in terms of modulus.

[0014] When one or more of these materials are combined, and it is necessary to make the shrinkage of the filament yarns to be combined as close as possible, it is possible to use the same material, that is, for example, both the colored filament yarn and the non-colored filament yarn are made of viscose. Make sure it's rayon. If different materials are combined and made into a woven fabric, it may swell to some extent and become thicker.

[0015] A plurality of filament threads are combined into a single thread by twisting or covering. Each,
It is made using a twisting machine and a covering machine, but in the case of twisting, the sizes of the filament threads that are combined are quite different, so the difference in centrifugal force tends to result in a jagged and wavy state. It is necessary to overfeed the yarn somewhat.

On the other hand, in the case of covering, uncolored yarn is used as the core yarn and colored yarn is used as the cover yarn, but since the degree of squeezing of the yarn is smaller than that of twisted yarn, the yarn becomes thicker and relatively thicker. It gives a flat image and makes your waist stick out again. Fig. 1 shows the appearance of the case by twisting, and Fig. 2 shows the appearance of the case by covering. In composite unification by twisting, thick, non-colored filament yarn 1
Both the thin and colored filament yarns 2 are in a twisted state, but in the composite by covering, the thick, non-colored filament yarn 1 is covered with the thin and colored filament yarn 2 in a twisted state.

In either case, the number of twists in the non-colored part and the colored part by twisting is 150 to 150 per meter.
It is preferable to put it in 300 times. In the case of twisted yarn, if it is twisted more than 200 times per meter with single twist, torque remains, so heat setting is necessary in this case. It is most preferable to use untwisted filament yarn as the core yarn for covering, since no torque remains.

[0018] Furthermore, when using twisted yarn, the color effect due to coloring is lower. This is because due to the centrifugal force during twisting, the non-colored filament yarn inevitably has a larger fog, and some of the colored filament yarn sinks into the non-colored filament yarn, which slightly reduces the coloring effect. It gets lower. In the case of covering, colored threads effectively appear on the surface, which is desirable in terms of color effect.

[0019] In another preferred embodiment of the present invention, the individual filament yarns are drawn together in a substantially untwisted state or in a very loosely twisted state and subjected to an interlacing process, so that a partial The yarn is twisted after being interlaced several times per meter. Using a spinning device with separate gear pumps for spinning non-colored filament yarns and gear pumps for spinning colored filament yarns, two filament yarns are spun simultaneously, interlaced, and interlaced between the two filament yarns. If some of the filaments are entangled, the clarity of the heather will be somewhat blurred, resulting in a product that more closely resembles a wool core spun yarn using animal hair. In this case, of course, covering is not possible, so twisted yarn is used.

[0020] When the multifilament yarn for wool interlining of the present invention is inserted as the weft of a fabric, it can be finished as an interlining fabric having a wool-like appearance. The yarns of the present invention may be included in all of the wefts or alternately with other yarns such as non-colored yarns. In addition, in order to make the appearance of the heather more random, when twisting and covering,
The feed rate can be changed in short cycles.

[0021]

[Examples] The present invention will be explained in detail with reference to Examples below.

[0022]

[Example 1] Untwisted untwisted viscose rayon yarn, 9
00 denier/20 filament (thickness of single fiber is circular equivalent diameter, about 65μ), twisted (S twist 74T/m) black spun-dyed viscose rayon yarn, 75 denier/26 filament by ring twisting machine. , S-twisted at 200T/m.

A woven fabric was prepared using this yarn as the weft and a 30 count twin yarn blended yarn of cotton and ester as the warp. The warp yarn density is 47 yarns/inch, and the weft yarn density is 32 yarns/inch. The appearance of the resulting fabric was very similar to that of a fabric using the highest quality horse tail hair as a wool core. When used as a breast augmentation material, it was thin, had a high shaping effect, and was comfortable to wear.

[0024]

[Example 2] Untwisted viscose rayon yarn 12
The core yarn is 00 denier/20 filament (the thickness of the single fiber is approximately 75μ in terms of circular diameter) and is twisted (S twist 94T/
m) black undyed viscose rayon yarn 120 denier/
Covering was carried out using a covering machine using 26 filaments as a covering yarn at 240 T/m.

Weaving was carried out using the same warp and weave density as in Example 1. The obtained woven fabric had a high-quality appearance similar to that of a wool interlining fabric using horsetail hair, as in Example 1. When this interlining material was used as a shoulder interlining material, it was evaluated as being good in terms of its elasticity and elasticity.

Although the above examples are about viscose rayon yarn, substantially the same results can be obtained using polyester yarn or other multifilament yarns. In addition, the non-colored filament yarn and the colored filament yarn can be made of different materials in comprehensive consideration of physical properties, cost, etc. For example, a preferred embodiment is a covering yarn in which an untwisted viscose rayon is used as a core yarn for an uncolored filament yarn, and a polyester dyed yarn as a colored filament yarn is used as a cover yarn.

[0027]

[Effects of the Invention] When a woven fabric is made using the multifilament yarn for wool interlining according to the present invention as a weft, it exhibits an appearance extremely similar to the appearance of wool interlining, especially that of real horse wool. Moreover, in order to change the appearance of the heathered tone, it is possible to change the ratio of the thickness of the two filament yarns or the number of twists, or use two colors as colored filament yarns, double covering, etc. within the scope of the present invention. Many variations are possible.

In addition to having the above-mentioned effects, the multifilament yarn for wool interlining of the present invention is easier to handle than fiber raw materials for wool interlining because it is a filament yarn, and it is easy to obtain raw materials and improve quality. It is stable and has advantages in terms of Furthermore, there is a feeling of slippage between the outer material and the lining material, making it thin and firm, which has the effect of improving the comfort of the garment.

Among them, the multifilament yarn for wool interlining of the present invention, which mainly uses viscose rayon yarn, has, in addition to the above-mentioned effects, a sticky tension and a tension with a drape feeling. It has more desirable properties as an interlining, such as less shrinkage and a higher ironing temperature.

[Brief explanation of drawings]

FIG. 1 is an external view schematically showing the composite state of the multifilament yarn for wool interlining according to the present invention by twisting.

FIG. 2 is an external view schematically showing a composite state due to covering of multifilament yarn for wool interlining.

[Explanation of symbols]

1. Uncolored filament yarn 2. Colored filament thread

Claims (1)

[Claims] Claim 1: Consisting of an uncolored multifilament yarn whose constituent single fibers have a diameter of 50 μm or more, and a brown or black colored multifilament yarn smaller in thickness than the uncolored filament yarn; A multifilament yarn for wool interlining, characterized in that the filament yarns are combined by twisting or covering.