JPH0357984B2 - - Google Patents
Info
- Publication number
- JPH0357984B2 JPH0357984B2 JP58100038A JP10003883A JPH0357984B2 JP H0357984 B2 JPH0357984 B2 JP H0357984B2 JP 58100038 A JP58100038 A JP 58100038A JP 10003883 A JP10003883 A JP 10003883A JP H0357984 B2 JPH0357984 B2 JP H0357984B2
- Authority
- JP
- Japan
- Prior art keywords
- fibers
- fiber
- fabric
- convex portions
- present
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Expired
Links
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 claims description 50
- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 claims description 26
- 239000002759 woven fabric Substances 0.000 claims description 13
- 239000002131 composite material Substances 0.000 claims description 11
- 229920000642 polymer Polymers 0.000 claims description 7
- 229920000139 polyethylene terephthalate Polymers 0.000 description 11
- 239000005020 polyethylene terephthalate Substances 0.000 description 11
- 229920001707 polybutylene terephthalate Polymers 0.000 description 8
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 description 7
- 241000907681 Morpho Species 0.000 description 5
- BQJCRHHNABKAKU-KBQPJGBKSA-N morphine Chemical compound O([C@H]1[C@H](C=C[C@H]23)O)C4=C5[C@@]12CCN(C)[C@@H]3CC5=CC=C4O BQJCRHHNABKAKU-KBQPJGBKSA-N 0.000 description 5
- QQVIHTHCMHWDBS-UHFFFAOYSA-N isophthalic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)C1=CC=CC(C(O)=O)=C1 QQVIHTHCMHWDBS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 229920000728 polyester Polymers 0.000 description 4
- 230000000052 comparative effect Effects 0.000 description 3
- MTHSVFCYNBDYFN-UHFFFAOYSA-N diethylene glycol Chemical compound OCCOCCO MTHSVFCYNBDYFN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 238000001035 drying Methods 0.000 description 3
- 238000004043 dyeing Methods 0.000 description 3
- 239000004753 textile Substances 0.000 description 3
- QPFMBZIOSGYJDE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1,1,2,2-tetrachloroethane Chemical compound ClC(Cl)C(Cl)Cl QPFMBZIOSGYJDE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- YZTJKOLMWJNVFH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-sulfobenzene-1,3-dicarboxylic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)C1=CC=CC(C(O)=O)=C1S(O)(=O)=O YZTJKOLMWJNVFH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 241000255777 Lepidoptera Species 0.000 description 2
- 239000004952 Polyamide Substances 0.000 description 2
- -1 Polyethylene terephthalate Polymers 0.000 description 2
- VYPSYNLAJGMNEJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Silicium dioxide Chemical compound O=[Si]=O VYPSYNLAJGMNEJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- WNLRTRBMVRJNCN-UHFFFAOYSA-N adipic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CCCCC(O)=O WNLRTRBMVRJNCN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- WERYXYBDKMZEQL-UHFFFAOYSA-N butane-1,4-diol Chemical compound OCCCCO WERYXYBDKMZEQL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 239000003086 colorant Substances 0.000 description 2
- 229920002647 polyamide Polymers 0.000 description 2
- CXMXRPHRNRROMY-UHFFFAOYSA-N sebacic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CCCCCCCCC(O)=O CXMXRPHRNRROMY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- OKTJSMMVPCPJKN-UHFFFAOYSA-N Carbon Chemical compound [C] OKTJSMMVPCPJKN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 244000241796 Christia obcordata Species 0.000 description 1
- 229920000742 Cotton Polymers 0.000 description 1
- ISWSIDIOOBJBQZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Phenol Chemical compound OC1=CC=CC=C1 ISWSIDIOOBJBQZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000004721 Polyphenylene oxide Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000004372 Polyvinyl alcohol Substances 0.000 description 1
- 241000872198 Serjania polyphylla Species 0.000 description 1
- 239000002253 acid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 150000007513 acids Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 235000011037 adipic acid Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000001361 adipic acid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000003513 alkali Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000002216 antistatic agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000003796 beauty Effects 0.000 description 1
- 229910052799 carbon Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000001913 cellulose Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920002678 cellulose Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 description 1
- 150000001875 compounds Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 238000007796 conventional method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229920001577 copolymer Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 238000010586 diagram Methods 0.000 description 1
- 150000002148 esters Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 239000003063 flame retardant Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000012760 heat stabilizer Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000004898 kneading Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000002932 luster Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000006224 matting agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000012046 mixed solvent Substances 0.000 description 1
- IZORMMLJZNGANB-UHFFFAOYSA-N n-[2-[(2-cyano-6-iodo-4-nitrophenyl)diazenyl]-5-(diethylamino)-4-methoxyphenyl]acetamide Chemical compound C1=C(OC)C(N(CC)CC)=CC(NC(C)=O)=C1N=NC1=C(I)C=C([N+]([O-])=O)C=C1C#N IZORMMLJZNGANB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- SLCVBVWXLSEKPL-UHFFFAOYSA-N neopentyl glycol Chemical compound OCC(C)(C)CO SLCVBVWXLSEKPL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229920002239 polyacrylonitrile Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920001515 polyalkylene glycol Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920006149 polyester-amide block copolymer Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920000570 polyether Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920000098 polyolefin Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920002451 polyvinyl alcohol Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 238000012805 post-processing Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000012545 processing Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000000630 rising effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000009991 scouring Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000000377 silicon dioxide Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000002522 swelling effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000009941 weaving Methods 0.000 description 1
- 208000016261 weight loss Diseases 0.000 description 1
- 230000004580 weight loss Effects 0.000 description 1
Landscapes
- Spinning Methods And Devices For Manufacturing Artificial Fibers (AREA)
- Woven Fabrics (AREA)
- Artificial Filaments (AREA)
- Multicomponent Fibers (AREA)
Description
本発明は、蝶の鱗片に類似した構造を有する繊
維を含む織物に関するものであり、蝶の羽根にみ
られる優美な色調効果を有する織物に関するもの
である。野に舞う蝶の鮮やかな色調を見て美しい
と感じない人はないであろう。衣料を取扱つてい
る者にとつて、かかる鮮明色を有する織偏物を作
りたいというのは長年の願望である。蝶のなかで
もとくに南米に住むモルフオ蝶は見る方向により
色調を変え、その美しさは格別である。
本発明者らは、モルフオ蝶の秘密をつぶさに調
べ、もつとも重要なポイントである鱗片構造を織
物に持たせるべく鋭意研究を重ね、本発明に到達
したものである。
すなわち、本発明は収縮特性を異にする２種以
上のポリマーからなる偏平複合繊維とくにその長
さ方向の両側に多くの凸部を有する凸部つきの偏
平複合繊維を含む織物とくに当該繊維の30％以上
が角度45゜以上で織物表面に立ち上がつている構
造の織物に関するものである。とくにかかる凸部
は片側に４個以上、好ましくは７個以上にして、
凸部の平均大きさは幅Ｗの1/4倍以上、好ましく
は1/3倍以上のような凸部つきの偏平繊維を用い
るものである。
まず、本発明で用いる偏平繊維に言う長さ(L)お
よび幅（Ｗ）とは、それぞれ当該繊維横断面の最
大長さと最大幅であり、第１図に示す如く繊維横
断面を顕微鏡で観察し、Ｌ、Ｗを求めることによ
り得られる。かかるＬ／Ｗの値は、少なくとも20
本の繊維の平均値をとることが望ましい。ここ
で、偏平繊維の偏平面とは、第１図の繊維の長さ
方向を含む面を言い、また、この繊維が立ち上が
るとは、該偏平面が織物面に45゜以上の角度を以
つて立ち上がつていることを言う。なお、織物中
でタテ糸とヨコ糸が上下に交叉する組織点ではす
べての繊維が立ち上がつていなくても差し支えな
い。本発明の織物においては、これらの偏平繊維
が複数本隣接しながら林立しているが、それら隣
接している部分は、お互いに接触していても空間
を有していてもよい。さらにまた、本発明で肝心
の点は、偏平繊維の両側に多数の凸部があること
であつて、かかる偏平面に凸部を有する繊維と
は、たとえば第１図の如き繊維横断面を有し、そ
の凸部は片側に少なくとも４個、好ましくは７個
以上あり、その凸部の平均大きさは1/4Ｗ以上、
好ましくは1/3Ｗ以上のものである。ここで、凸
部の大きさとは凸部の谷から山までの深さを意味
する。そして、かかる凸部の形状はモルフオ蝶の
羽根の鱗片構造を模式的に示した第３図からもわ
かるように同一大きさの凸部でなくてもよい。第
４図は、本発明の一例としてサテン織物をヨコ糸
方向に切断したときの横断面を模式的に示したも
のであり、そこでは織物表面側の本発明の偏平繊
維であるタテ糸はかなり林立していることがわか
る。第５図は、第４図におけるタテ糸断面部の一
部を拡大して示したものである。このように、凸
部つき偏平複合繊維の少くとも一部が織物中で立
ち上がることによつてふくらみ、ドレープ性が向
上し、染色物の深みも増す。
本発明者らの検討結果によれば、前記Ｗが0.1
〜10μ、Ｌが0.5〜50μであることが好ましく、
Ｌ／Ｗ＝2.5〜15好ましくは3.5〜８のときに本発
明の効果が現われる。ここ、Ｌ／Ｗ＜2.5では濃
色効果はほとんど現われず、Ｌ／Ｗ＞15では偏平
面を事実上立たせることが不可能となり、本発明
の効果を発揮することは難かしい。
本発明のねらいとする織物とするためには、そ
こで用いた偏平複合繊維とくに織物表面側の織物
組織点以外の当該繊維のうちの30％以上が角度
45゜以上、好ましくは40％以上、より好ましくは
55％以上が立ち上がつているようにする必要があ
り、かかる状態は以下に述べるように織物の後処
理によつて得ることができる。
本発明の繊維を構成するポリマーは、ポリエス
テル、ポリアミド、ポリオレフイン、ポリエーテ
ルエステル、ポリアクリロニトリル、ポリビニル
アルコール、セルロース系高分子、その他繊維形
成可能なものであればよく、より好ましいのは、
ポリエステル、ポリアミドであり、とくに好まし
いのは収縮性能を異にするポリエステル同志の２
成分複合偏平繊維である。
つぎに、本発明の複合２成分として好ましい２
成分ポリマーの組合わせ例を示すが、これにより
本発明の繊維が限定されるものではない。本発明
においては下記のうちとくに(iii)と(v)が好ましい。
(i) Ａ成分として〔η〕≧0.6のポリエチレンテレ
フタレート（PET）、Ｂ成分としてＡ成分より
〔η〕が0.1以上小さいPET
(ii) Ａ成分として〔η〕≧0.75以上のポリブチレ
ンテレフタレート（PBT）、Ｂ成分としてＡ成
分より〔η〕が0.1以上小さいPBT
(iii) Ａ成分として実質的に共重合していない
PET、Ｂ成分として３〜15モル％の第３成分
を共重合したPET
(iv) Ａ成分として実質的に共重合していない
PBT、Ｂ成分として３〜15モル％の第３成分
を共重合したPBT
(v) Ａ成分としてPET、Ｂ成分としてPBT
(vi) Ａ成分としてPET、Ｂ成分としてPETと
PBTのブレンドポリマー
ここで、実質的に第３成分を共重合していない
PETあるいはPBTとは、５モル％未満の第３成
分たとえばイソフタール酸、アジピン酸、セバシ
ン酸、ジエチレングリコール、ネオペンチルグリ
コール、スルホイソフタール酸、１，４ブタンジ
オールを共重合したもの、あるいは５重量％未満
の練込剤たとえば艶消剤、熱安定剤、カーボン、
シリカあるいは制電剤（たとえばポリアルキレン
グリコール、アルキルベンゼンスルホン酸類）、
難燃剤（ＰやBr化合物）等を含んでいるもので
ある。
本発明の凸部つきの偏平複合繊維は、かかる
Ａ、B2つの成分を複合流としてたとえば第２図
に示すノズルから吐出して引取る（500〜6000
ｍ／分）ことにより繊維が形成される。引取られ
た未延伸糸は通常の方法で1.1〜5.0倍延伸され
る。
本発明にて使用される好ましい偏平複合繊維
は、つぎに示す捩れ収縮率（NSr）が３〜40％の
ものである。すなわち、捩れ収縮率NSrとは、繊
維に１mg／ｄの荷重を吊し、90℃熱水中で30分間
処理し、荷重をかけた状態で乾燥し、そのときの
長さl1を測定し、つぎに50mg／ｄの荷重を吊した
ときの長さl2から下記によつて求められる。
NSr（％）＝l2−l1／l2×100
ここで、NSrが３％未満の場合は織物中で捩れ
が発現されにくく、そのため偏平面が織物表面に
ほぼ平行なものしか得られない。またNSrが40％
を越えると、捩れが捲縮に近くなつて本発明の効
果が発揮されない。
本発明の織物は、前記の如き偏平複合繊維がタ
テ糸、ヨコ糸の少くとも一方を構成するもの、あ
るいは交織、交撚、混繊、混綿使いのもの等も含
む。上記偏平繊維が織物の20％以上を構成してい
ることが望ましいが、ストライプ使い、柄使い用
として用いる場合にはそれ以下でも効果を発揮で
きる。
本発明に使用される凸部つき偏平複合繊維は短
繊維、長繊維いずれも可能であるが、長繊維とし
て使用した場合のほうがより効果大である。
本発明の偏平繊維の偏平面を織物表面にかなり
の角度で立たせる方法は、上述の凸部つき偏平複
合繊維を含む織物を後加工段階での捩れ発現処理
すなわち、リラツクサー、ワツシヤー、ループ乾
燥後、ピンテンター、染色機等を任意に用いるこ
とによつて行なうことができる。またアルカリ減
量処理を行なうとさらに膨らみ効果が向上する。
以下、実施例を以つて本発明を説明するが、こ
れにより本発明の範囲が限定されるものではな
い。
実施例 １
〔η〕（フエノールとテトラクロルエタンの等
量混合溶媒を用い30℃の恒温槽中でウツペローデ
型粘度計で測定したときの極限粘度）が0.62の
PET(A)と、イソフタール酸８モル％、スルホイ
ソフタール酸２モル％共重合したPET(B)を１：
１の複合比で第２図の形をしたｌ／ｗ＝10のノズ
ルから張合わせ紡糸して230d／24fの第１図の断
面をした凸部つき偏平複合未延伸糸を得た。この
ものを下記の条件で２段延伸し75d／24fの延伸糸
を得た。
第１ローラー：85℃
第２ローラー：70℃
第３ローラー：室温
第１段延伸倍率：2.3倍
２段延伸倍率：−0.1倍
この糸はNSr＝8.8％、Ｗ−8.0μ、Ｌ＝38.0μ、
Ｌ／Ｗ＝4.75であつた。
この糸をタテ糸とし、ヨコ糸に通常の円形断面
ポリエステル繊維50d／48fを用いてサテンを製織
した。ついで、リラツクス精練（98℃の温水で15
分処理）→熱バルク出し（180℃、ロングループ）
処理→ヒートセツト（185℃）→染色（染料：
Kayalon Polyester Black GS−Ｆ）→仕上加工
→フアイナルセツトを行なつた。
得られた織物表面を50倍の立体顕微鏡で観察す
ると、タテ糸の偏平面が角度45゜以上でその60％
が立ち上がつていることがわかつた。かかるサテ
ンは深味のある黒色をしており、染色濃度L*値
は13.2であつた。また布の厚さは0.41mmであつて
ふくらみがあり、ドレープ性の良好なものであつ
た。
比較例 １
実施例１で用いたＡ成分のみから同様の方法で
75d／24fの実施例１の糸とほぼ同形の偏平な延伸
糸を得た。ついで、この繊維を用いて実施例１と
同様の方法でサテン織物を得た。その結果を実施
例１の結果とともに第１表に示す。
TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to a fabric containing fibers having a structure similar to butterfly scales, and relates to a fabric having the graceful tonal effect seen in butterfly wings. There is no one who does not feel beautiful when they see the bright colors of butterflies dancing in the field. For those who deal in clothing, it has been a long-standing desire to create woven fabrics with such vivid colors. Among butterflies, the Morpho butterfly, which lives in South America, changes color depending on the direction from which it is viewed, and its beauty is exceptional. The present inventors have thoroughly investigated the secrets of the Morpho butterfly, and have conducted extensive research in order to impart the most important scale structure to textiles, and have arrived at the present invention. That is, the present invention is directed to flat conjugate fibers made of two or more types of polymers having different shrinkage characteristics, particularly woven fabrics containing flat conjugate fibers with convex portions having many convex portions on both sides in the length direction, particularly 30% of the fibers. The above concerns a woven fabric with a structure that stands up on the surface of the woven fabric at an angle of 45° or more. In particular, the number of such convex portions is 4 or more on one side, preferably 7 or more,
The average size of the convex portions is 1/4 times or more, preferably 1/3 times or more of the width W. Flat fibers with convex portions are used. First, the length (L) and width (W) of the flat fiber used in the present invention are the maximum length and maximum width of the fiber cross section, respectively, and the fiber cross section is observed with a microscope as shown in Figure 1. It can be obtained by calculating L and W. The value of such L/W is at least 20
It is desirable to take the average value of the fibers of the book. Here, the flattened plane of the flattened fiber refers to a plane that includes the length direction of the fiber in Figure 1, and this fiber stands up when the flattened plane is at an angle of 45° or more to the fabric surface. Say that you are standing up. Note that at the tissue point where the warp and weft threads intersect vertically in the fabric, there is no problem even if all the fibers do not stand up. In the woven fabric of the present invention, a plurality of these flat fibers are arranged in a row adjacent to each other, but the adjacent portions may be in contact with each other or may have a space. Furthermore, the important point of the present invention is that the flat fiber has a large number of convex portions on both sides, and a fiber having convex portions on such a flat plane is, for example, a fiber having a cross section as shown in FIG. However, there are at least 4, preferably 7 or more convex portions on one side, and the average size of the convex portions is 1/4W or more,
Preferably it is 1/3W or more. Here, the size of the convex portion means the depth from the valley to the peak of the convex portion. The shapes of the convex portions do not have to be of the same size, as can be seen from FIG. 3, which schematically shows the scale structure of the wing of the Morpho butterfly. FIG. 4 schematically shows a cross section when a satin fabric is cut in the weft direction as an example of the present invention, and it shows that the warp yarns, which are the flat fibers of the present invention, on the surface side of the fabric are quite large. It can be seen that there is a forest. FIG. 5 is an enlarged view of a part of the warp cross section in FIG. 4. In this way, at least a portion of the flat conjugate fibers with convex portions stand up in the fabric and swell, improving drapability and increasing the depth of the dyed product. According to the study results of the present inventors, the above W is 0.1
~10μ, preferably L is 0.5~50μ,
The effect of the present invention appears when L/W=2.5-15, preferably 3.5-8. Here, when L/W<2.5, the deep color effect hardly appears, and when L/W>15, it becomes virtually impossible to make the oblique plane stand up, and it is difficult to exhibit the effects of the present invention. In order to obtain the woven fabric that is the aim of the present invention, it is necessary that at least 30% of the flat composite fibers used therein, especially those other than the weave points on the surface side of the woven fabric, have angles.
45° or more, preferably 40% or more, more preferably
It is necessary to ensure that at least 55% of the fabric is raised, and this condition can be obtained by post-treatment of the fabric as described below. The polymer constituting the fiber of the present invention may be polyester, polyamide, polyolefin, polyether ester, polyacrylonitrile, polyvinyl alcohol, cellulose polymer, or any other polymer capable of forming fibers, and more preferably,
Polyester and polyamide are particularly preferred, and two polyesters with different shrinkage performance are particularly preferred.
It is a component composite flat fiber. Next, two preferred composite two components of the present invention will be described.
Examples of combinations of component polymers are shown below, but the fibers of the present invention are not limited thereto. In the present invention, (iii) and (v) are particularly preferred among the following. (i) Polyethylene terephthalate (PET) with [η]≧0.6 as the A component, PET with [η] smaller than A component by 0.1 or more as the B component (ii) Polybutylene terephthalate (PBT) with [η]≧0.75 as the A component ), PBT whose [η] is 0.1 or more smaller than that of A component as component B (iii) Substantially not copolymerized as component A
PET, PET copolymerized with 3 to 15 mol% of a third component as component B (iv) Substantially not copolymerized as component A
PBT, PBT copolymerized with 3 to 15 mol% of third component as component B (v) PET as component A, PBT as component B (vi) PET as component A, PET as component B
Blend polymer of PBT Here, the third component is not substantially copolymerized.
PET or PBT is a copolymer of less than 5 mol% of a third component such as isophthalic acid, adipic acid, sebacic acid, diethylene glycol, neopentyl glycol, sulfoisophthalic acid, 1,4 butanediol, or 5% by weight. Kneading agents such as matting agents, heat stabilizers, carbon,
silica or antistatic agents (e.g. polyalkylene glycols, alkylbenzenesulfonic acids),
It contains flame retardants (P and Br compounds), etc. The flat composite fiber with convex portions of the present invention is produced by ejecting the two components A and B as a composite stream from a nozzle shown in FIG. 2 (500 to 6000
m/min) to form fibers. The taken-off undrawn yarn is drawn 1.1 to 5.0 times by a conventional method. The preferred flat conjugate fibers used in the present invention have the following torsional shrinkage ratio (NSr) of 3 to 40%. In other words, the torsional shrinkage rate NSR is calculated by suspending a fiber with a load of 1 mg/d, treating it in hot water at 90℃ for 30 minutes, drying it with the load applied, and measuring the length l 1 at that time. , then the length l 2 when a load of 50 mg/d is suspended is determined as follows. NSr (%) = l 2 - l 1 / l 2 × 100 Here, when NSr is less than 3%, twisting is difficult to occur in the fabric, and therefore only a fabric whose flat plane is approximately parallel to the fabric surface can be obtained. . Also, NSr is 40%
If it exceeds this, the twist becomes close to crimp and the effect of the present invention cannot be exhibited. The woven fabrics of the present invention include those in which the above-described flat conjugate fibers constitute at least one of the warp yarns and the weft yarns, and those in which mixed weaving, twisting, mixed fibers, and mixed cotton are used. It is desirable that the above-mentioned flat fibers constitute 20% or more of the woven fabric, but when used for striped or patterned fabrics, the effect can be achieved even with less than 20%. The flat conjugate fibers with convex portions used in the present invention can be either short fibers or long fibers, but the effect is greater when used as long fibers. The method of making the flat plane of the flat fibers of the present invention stand at a considerable angle on the surface of the textile is that the textile containing the above-mentioned flat composite fibers with convex portions is subjected to twisting treatment in the post-processing stage, that is, after drying using a relaxer, washer, or loop drying. , a pin tenter, a dyeing machine, etc., as desired. Further, when the alkali weight loss treatment is performed, the swelling effect is further improved. The present invention will be explained below with reference to Examples, but the scope of the present invention is not limited thereby. Example 1 [η] (intrinsic viscosity when measured with an Utsperohde viscometer in a constant temperature bath at 30°C using a mixed solvent of equal amounts of phenol and tetrachloroethane) was 0.62.
PET (A), PET (B) copolymerized with 8 mol% isophthalic acid and 2 mol% sulfoisophthalic acid, 1:
A flat composite undrawn yarn with convex portions having a cross section of 230d/24f as shown in FIG. 1 was obtained by spun spun from a l/w=10 nozzle having the shape shown in FIG. 2 at a composite ratio of 1. This material was drawn in two stages under the following conditions to obtain a drawn yarn of 75d/24f. 1st roller: 85℃ 2nd roller: 70℃ 3rd roller: room temperature 1st stage stretch ratio: 2.3 times 2nd stage stretch ratio: -0.1 times This yarn has NSr=8.8%, W-8.0μ, L=38.0μ ,
L/W=4.75. This yarn was used as a warp yarn, and a sateen was woven using ordinary circular cross-section polyester fibers 50d/48f as the weft yarn. Next, relax scouring (15 minutes with 98℃ warm water)
minute processing) → thermal bulk removal (180℃, long loop)
Treatment → heat set (185℃) → dyeing (dye:
Kayalon Polyester Black GS-F) → Finishing → Final set. When the surface of the obtained fabric is observed under a stereoscopic microscope with a magnification of 50 times, 60% of the oblique plane of the warp yarn is at an angle of 45° or more.
I noticed that it was rising. This satin had a deep black color, and the dyeing density L * value was 13.2. The fabric had a thickness of 0.41 mm, was fluffy, and had good drapability. Comparative Example 1 Using only the A component used in Example 1, the same method was used.
A flat drawn yarn having approximately the same shape as the yarn of Example 1 of 75d/24f was obtained. Then, using this fiber, a satin fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1. The results are shown in Table 1 together with the results of Example 1.
【表】
比較例１においては、偏平面が織物面にほぼ平
行であり、白味をおびた黒色で、ふくらみ、ドレ
ープがなくペーパーライクなものであつた。一
方、実施例１の織物表面の偏平糸は、前述のとお
り、かなりの糸が立ち上がつているために高級ベ
ルベツトのような深味のある黒色であつた。また
黒色染料の代わりにDianix Blue KB−FSと
Dianix Violet 5R−SEの配合染料で染めたもの
は、光沢と色調が光の入射方向により微妙に変化
し、まさにモルフオ蝶の羽根の色合いとなつた。
また、布の厚さが比較例１のそれの約４倍もあり
非常に大きなふくらみを有しており、抜群のドレ
ープ性を有する織物であつた。[Table] In Comparative Example 1, the oblique plane was almost parallel to the fabric surface, the color was black with a whitish tinge, and there was no bulge or drape, making it paper-like. On the other hand, as described above, the flat yarns on the surface of the fabric of Example 1 had a deep black color similar to high-grade velvet because a considerable number of yarns stood up. Also, instead of black dye, Dianix Blue KB-FS is used.
When dyed with Dianix Violet 5R-SE, the luster and tone change slightly depending on the direction of light incidence, giving it exactly the color of a Morpho butterfly's wings.
In addition, the thickness of the fabric was about four times that of Comparative Example 1, and it had a very large bulge, making it a fabric with excellent drape properties.
第１図は本発明で用いる凸部つき偏平複合繊維
の一例、第２図はそれを得るためのノズル、第３
図はモルフオ蝶の羽根の鱗片構造の模式図、第４
図は本発明の織物の一例、そして第５図は第４図
のタテ糸断面の拡大図である。
Figure 1 shows an example of the flat conjugate fiber with protrusions used in the present invention, Figure 2 shows the nozzle for obtaining it, and Figure 3 shows the nozzle for obtaining it.
The figure is a schematic diagram of the scale structure of the wing of the Morpho butterfly.
The figure shows an example of the fabric of the present invention, and FIG. 5 is an enlarged view of the warp cross section of FIG. 4.
Claims (1)
方向に張り合わせられた実質的に直線状の偏平複
合繊維にして、その繊維断面の長さ方向の両側
に、片側に少くとも４個の凸部を有する繊維であ
つて、当該繊維断面形状の偏平度Ｌ／Ｗが2.5〜
15（ここでＬは繊維断面の最大長、Ｗは最大幅）
のものであり、かかる複合繊維を含む織物の、織
物表面で、組織点以外の任意の切断面において当
該繊維の30％以上が織物面に対して角度45゜以上
で立ち上がつていることを特徴とする鱗片構造繊
維を含む織物。 ２ 凸部の平均大きさが1/4Ｗ以上であることを
特徴とする特許請求の範囲第１項記載の織物。 ３ 凸部の平均大きさが1/3Ｗ以上であることを
特徴とする特許請求の範囲第１項記載の織物。 ４ 片側に７個以上の凸部を有することを特徴と
する特許請求の範囲第１項に記載の織物。 ５ 織物中の複合繊維の55％以上が角度45゜以上
で立ち上がつていることを特徴とする特許請求の
範囲第１項に記載の織物。[Claims] 1. A substantially linear flat composite fiber in which two or more types of polymers having different shrinkage characteristics are laminated together in the width direction, and one side of the fiber cross section is formed on both sides in the length direction of the fiber cross section, and The fiber has at least four convex portions, and the flatness L/W of the cross-sectional shape of the fiber is 2.5 to 2.5.
15 (Here, L is the maximum length of the fiber cross section, W is the maximum width)
30% or more of the fibers on any cut plane other than the tissue points on the fabric surface of the fabric containing such composite fibers stand up at an angle of 45° or more with respect to the fabric surface. Fabric containing characteristic scale structure fibers. 2. The woven fabric according to claim 1, wherein the average size of the convex portions is 1/4W or more. 3. The fabric according to claim 1, wherein the average size of the convex portions is 1/3W or more. 4. The woven fabric according to claim 1, which has seven or more convex portions on one side. 5. The woven fabric according to claim 1, wherein 55% or more of the composite fibers in the woven fabric stand up at an angle of 45° or more.
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP58100038A JPS59228042A (en) | 1983-06-03 | 1983-06-03 | Fabric containing scale piece structured fiber |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP58100038A JPS59228042A (en) | 1983-06-03 | 1983-06-03 | Fabric containing scale piece structured fiber |
Publications (2)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| JPS59228042A JPS59228042A (en) | 1984-12-21 |
| JPH0357984B2 true JPH0357984B2 (en) | 1991-09-04 |
Family
ID=14263352
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP58100038A Granted JPS59228042A (en) | 1983-06-03 | 1983-06-03 | Fabric containing scale piece structured fiber |
Country Status (1)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| JP (1) | JPS59228042A (en) |
Families Citing this family (15)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| US4778460A (en) * | 1985-10-07 | 1988-10-18 | Kimberly-Clark Corporation | Multilayer nonwoven fabric |
| JPH03125090U (en) * | 1990-03-28 | 1991-12-18 | ||
| JP2890984B2 (en) * | 1992-06-30 | 1999-05-17 | 日産自動車株式会社 | Structures that reflect and interfere with natural light |
| US5472798A (en) * | 1993-07-16 | 1995-12-05 | Nissan Motor Co., Ltd. | Coloring structure having reflecting and interfering functions |
| JP3166482B2 (en) * | 1994-06-07 | 2001-05-14 | 日産自動車株式会社 | Coloring structure having reflective interference action |
| JP3550775B2 (en) | 1995-02-08 | 2004-08-04 | 日産自動車株式会社 | Coloring structure |
| JPH08218218A (en) * | 1995-02-16 | 1996-08-27 | Tanaka Kikinzoku Kogyo Kk | Production of fiber having optical function |
| JPH0995818A (en) | 1995-10-02 | 1997-04-08 | Tanaka Kikinzoku Kogyo Kk | Optical fiber and its production and apparatus therefor |
| JPH0995817A (en) | 1995-10-02 | 1997-04-08 | Tanaka Kikinzoku Kogyo Kk | Apparatus for producing optical fiber |
| JP3483379B2 (en) | 1995-12-08 | 2004-01-06 | 田中貴金属工業株式会社 | Coloring structure |
| CN1225694A (en) | 1997-05-02 | 1999-08-11 | 日产自动车株式会社 | Fibers with optical function |
| CN1239522A (en) | 1997-10-02 | 1999-12-22 | 日产自动车株式会社 | Fiber structure and tectile using same |
| JP3430094B2 (en) | 1998-12-10 | 2003-07-28 | 日産自動車株式会社 | Paint structure |
| JP3430062B2 (en) | 1999-02-26 | 2003-07-28 | 日産自動車株式会社 | Coloring structure |
| CN102936774A (en) * | 2012-11-23 | 2013-02-20 | 苏州巨源纤维科技有限公司 | Fiber |
-
1983
- 1983-06-03 JP JP58100038A patent/JPS59228042A/en active Granted
Also Published As
| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| JPS59228042A (en) | 1984-12-21 |
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