JPH0152503B2 - - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to a fabric manufacturing method,
This is a method for obtaining a good satsuka fabric more easily than before.

Conventionally, there have been two general methods for obtaining satsuka fabric using threads made of cellulose fibers.

One method is to create a tension difference in the warp threads during weaving. When some of the warp threads are stretched tightly and some are loosely tensioned, and the weft threads are inserted into these threads, the loosely tensioned warp threads are woven with excess, causing the parts to sag and create waves. Usually, loosely tensioned warp threads have 30 to 50% more weft threads woven into them than strongly tensioned warp threads, and this creates slack, causing transverse waves and shrinkage in parts of the fabric.

This method is the most common method for obtaining satsuka fabric, but in order to create a tension difference in the warp threads, two
The weaving process requires changing the way it is stretched using book sutra scrolls, which takes time and effort.

Furthermore, it has not been possible to create a tension difference in the weft yarns because it would be extremely difficult to do so, and only the shrinkage of the warp stripes could be achieved.

Another method is to use the property of cellulose fibers, which shrink when immersed in a concentrated solution of caustic soda, to obtain a sakka fabric. Yarns previously treated with caustic soda and untreated yarns are arranged in warp stripes and warped, and yarns treated with caustic soda are also inserted into the wefts to obtain a woven fabric.

When the fabric is then immersed in a cold concentrated solution of caustic soda, the untreated yarns will shrink, but the treated yarns will not shrink any further and will become sagging, creating a wavy "shrinkage". , and becomes the satsuka fabric.

The present invention was invented in order to obtain a wide variety of soccer fabrics more simply and more effectively than conventional manufacturing methods.

That is, the present invention involves crosslinking raw cotton made of cellulose fibers, then spinning the raw cotton,
Yarn obtained by spinning or
After spinning, a yarn mainly composed of cellulose fibers that has been crosslinked in the yarn state and a yarn consisting of cellulose fibers that have not been crosslinked or alkali treated are used to weave to create a fabric. Next, when such a fabric is treated with an alkali, the difference in the degree of shrinkage caused by the alkali between the cross-linked yarn and the untreated yarn causes a difference in the length of the yarn, and "shrinkage" appears, resulting in a satsuka fabric.

In other words, the feature of the present invention is that weaving is performed using yarn that has been crosslinked and yarn that has not been crosslinked or alkali treated.

It has been known that if cellulose fibers are subjected to resin crosslinking treatment in advance, it is possible to prevent excessive shrinkage caused by alkali treatment such as mercerization, and the present invention utilizes this property. .

To explain in detail with reference to the drawings, yarn a that has been cross-linked in advance on the warp and yarn b that has not been cross-linked or alkali-treated are arranged in vertical stripes as shown in Figure 1, and yarn a on the weft. Thread is inserted to create woven fabric. Thereafter, when such a fabric is treated with an alkaline agent such as caustic soda and liquid ammonia, the cellulose fibers of the untreated yarn B shrink and the length is reduced, but the cellulose fibers of the treated yarn A shrink due to resin crosslinking. is hindered, and the change in length is small.
The excess portion causes sagging and a wavy "shrinkage" appears (Figure 2). As a result, when looking at the fabric as a whole, it becomes a satsuka fabric.

In addition, as shown in Figures 3 and 4, in this method, the degree of shrinkage of cellulose fibers is increased by using yarns a and b, which have been crosslinked to a certain degree, and yarn c, which has not been crosslinked. It also changes,
It is also possible to control the strength of the appearance of "shrinkage" in the fabric.

Furthermore, the present invention provides resin-crosslinked yarn in the raw cotton state,
Alternatively, since the yarn is resin-crosslinked in the yarn state after spinning, even after it is made into a fabric, the resin crosslinking effect of the yarn itself makes the size smaller than when using yarn that has not been crosslinked. It has good stability, improves easy care, increases the durability of the effect of the satsuka fabric, and makes it easier to handle without losing its shape.

The raw cotton mentioned in the present invention does not matter where the cotton comes from or what kind it is produced as long as it is in the state of cotton before spinning or spinning. Further, as long as it is mainly made of natural cotton (cellulose fiber), it may be mixed with synthetic fiber.

Specifically, the crosslinking treatment described in the present invention is performed by immersing raw cotton and yarn in a treatment solution containing the following crosslinking agent and catalyst, drying and heating.

<Crosslinking agent> Dimethylol urea, dimethylol propylene urea, dimethylol hydroxyethylene urea, dimethylol uron, trimethylol melamine, trimethoxymethyl melamine, dimethylol methyl triazone, dimethylol ethyl triazone, dimethylol hydroxyethyl triazone ,
Dimethylol methyl carbamate, dimethylol ethyl carbamate, dimethylol hydroxyethyl carbamate, and others.

<Catalyst> - Organic acids such as acetic acid and maleic acid - Ammonium salts such as ammonium chloride and ammonium sulfate.

- Amines such as ethanolamine hydrochloride and 2-amino-2methylpropanol hydrochloride.

- Magnesium chloride, zinc nitrate, zinc chloride, magnesium nitrate, zinc borofluoride, aluminum chloride, magnesium phosphate, and others.

<Example 1> (1) Preliminary scouring and bleaching of 50-count cotton yarn was applied with the following treatment solution I at a pick-up rate of 60%, and after drying, it was heated at 165°C for 5 minutes to undergo crosslinking treatment. This thread was designated as a.

(a) Sumitekus Resin NS-19
...13.5% by weight (manufactured by Sumitomo Chemical Co., Ltd., crosslinking agent mainly based on N-N'-dityroldihydroxyethylene urea) - Magnesium chloride (hexahydrate) ...4.0% by weight - Sumitex Softner L ...2.0% by weight % (manufactured by Sumitomo Chemical Co., Ltd., higher fatty acid transparent conductor softener) ・Water...80.5% by weight (2) The yarn a obtained in (1) was subjected to scouring, marked crosslinking treatment, and alkali treatment. Using 40 count cotton yarn B as the warp, warp it into stripes of 8 yarns each, 80 yarns per inch, warp width 98cm, and warp yarn A for the weft.
Fabric A was obtained by weaving 20 stripes of 100 stripes per inch.

(3) Add A to the fabric obtained in (2) in 20% caustic soda.
Fabric B was obtained by soaking at 25° C. for 15 minutes to perform mercerization treatment, washing with water, drying, and finishing with pasting.

Fabric B thus obtained was a good satchel fabric with "shrinkage" appearing in the form of checkered stripes.

<Example 2> (1) 100 kg of raw cotton made of cellulose fibers was scoured and bleached using an Obermeyer type dyeing machine in the following manner.

(b) Refinement After treatment with the following treatment solution at 100°C for 3 hours, it was washed with water.

Treatment liquid Sodium hydroxide 3% OWF Anionic surfactant 1% OWF Bath ratio 1:6 (b) Bleaching After treatment with the following treatment liquid at 100°C for 3 hours, it was washed with water.

Treatment liquid Hydrogen peroxide (35%) 6%owf Sodium hydroxide 1.5%〃 Sodium silicate 1.5%〃 Sodium tripolyphosphate 1.0%〃 Nonionic surfactant 1.0%〃 Bath ratio 1:6〃 (2) Next The bleached cotton thus obtained was immersed in the treatment solution of (1) (a) of <Example 1>, the liquid was removed at a pick-up rate of 90%, and after drying,
Crosslinking treatment was performed by heating at 170°C for 15 minutes.

(3) Next, using a part of the crosslinked cotton obtained in this way, twist it to 500% using the usual spinning method.
A thread a with a thread count of 50 and a thread count of 50 was produced. At the same time, this cross-linked cotton and bleached cotton, which had neither been cross-linked nor alkali-treated, were blended at a ratio of 3:2 and twisted 500 times/m to create a yarn with a thickness of No. 50 (named b).

(4) Next, the two types of yarns a and b obtained in (3) with different blending ratios of crosslinked cotton and cotton yarn c with a thickness of 50 and twisted 500 times without crosslinking or alkali treatment. per inch in a striped pattern as shown in Figure 3.
80 pieces were warped with a warping width of 98 cm, and 100 pieces of a per inch were woven into the weft to obtain Fabric C.

(5) Next, the fabric C obtained in (4) was mercerized for 1 minute in an ammonia steam bath, washed with water, dried, and pasted to obtain a finished fabric D.

Fabric D obtained in this way uses yarn a made of all cross-linked cotton and yarn b mixed with cross-linked cotton and bleached cotton that has not been cross-linked or alkali-treated. The degree of shrinkage of the threads differs, and the result is a satsuka fabric with striped changes as shown in Figure 4, where the "shrinkage" is greater in part a than in part b.

In addition, in Fabric B, the crosslinking treatment is not done in the thread state, but
The yarn used in the cotton state is used, and the crosslinking agent has sufficiently penetrated into the fibers, so the crosslinking effect is large, and even after repeated washing, it does not lose its shape, and the effect of the satsuka fabric is not lost. Ta.

[Brief explanation of drawings]

The drawings show embodiments of the invention, FIGS. 1 and 3.
The figure shows the fabric before alkali treatment, and FIGS. 2 and 4 are explanatory diagrams showing the satsuka fabric obtained after alkali treatment. a, b, c...thread.

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1 Yarn that is spun or spun after being crosslinked in the state of raw cotton made of cellulose fibers, or
After spinning and spinning, a yarn made of cellulose fibers that has been cross-linked in the form of yarn and a yarn made of cellulose fibers that have not been subjected to cross-linking treatment or alkali treatment are used to create a fabric by weaving, A method for producing a satsuka fabric, which comprises treating such a fabric with an alkali.