JPS6111346B2 - - Google Patents

Description

[Detailed description of the invention]

The present invention relates to a method for manufacturing a cotton-like warp-stretch fabric. To explain in more detail, a multi-layered yarn consisting of a polyester short fiber core and a cotton fiber sheath is roughly woven in advance, and tension is applied to the resulting fabric in the warp direction. This relates to a method for producing a cotton-like fabric that has good stretch durability in both the warp and weft directions by processing, dyeing, and applying resin, and then forcibly shrinking and heat-setting the fabric in the warp direction. . BACKGROUND ART Conventionally, there is a method of manufacturing a weft stretchable fabric by swelling and softening cotton fabric with a highly concentrated caustic soda solution, stretching the fabric in the warp direction, and shrinking the fabric in the weft direction. However, with this method, the stretch recovery property of the fabric is poor, and the washing durability is also poor. Furthermore, since a high concentration of alkali is used, it causes a decrease in the strength of the cotton, making it impractical. There is also a method of obtaining a warp/warp stretch fabric by weaving using thermoplastic synthetic fiber processed yarn or spandex yarn for the warp and weft, and then dyeing and finishing the weaving. However, this method has the disadvantage that processing operations are complicated, tension control is very difficult, and processing costs are high. In addition, there is a method according to Japanese Patent Publication No. 45-34799 filed by the present applicant, in which a coarsely woven fabric is tensioned in the warp direction using animal fiber yarn or thermoplastic fiber yarn, and refined and dyed.・There is also a method of finishing and then mechanically shrinking the fabric by 5% to 40% in the warp direction to obtain a warp/warp stretch fabric, but this method has relatively good elasticity compared to the former method. However, since the synthetic fibers appear on the surface of the fabric, the texture is similar to that of synthetic fibers, and the washing durability is somewhat poor. Furthermore, when cotton fibers are used instead of animal fibers in this method, tension is applied in the warp direction during desizing, scouring, and bleaching, so the warp glue is difficult to remove uniformly and dyeing is likely to be uneven. The present invention was made in view of the current situation〓〓〓〓〓
Therefore, it is an object of the present invention to provide a method for producing a cotton-like fabric that improves the above-mentioned drawbacks and has extremely good stretchability in the warp and weft directions. In the present invention, the core of the yarn is 30% or more polyester short fibers.
Using a double-layer yarn with a yarn sheath composed of 50% to 70% cotton fibers, the warp and weft densities are adjusted to their respective finishing densities to facilitate warp and weft bending. The fabric is woven roughly 15% to 40%, and the resulting fabric is washed in hot water with a tension of 20 to 80 kg/m in the warp direction, and during desizing, scouring, and bleaching, it is relaxed and swollen without tension. When washing and drying in hot water, a tension of 20 to 80 kg/m is applied in the warp direction again to keep the warp as straight as possible and the weft bent.
The fabric is dyed and soaped under a tension of m, and then a resin or setting agent is applied to the fabric and dried.
10 in the warp direction, leaving the weft as it is.
Manufacture of a cotton-like warp-stretchable fabric characterized by mechanically forcing contraction by ~40%, temporarily fixing warp bends at the same time, and then completely heat-setting the warp and weft in a strongly bent state. It's a method. The important significance of the present invention is that it uses a multi-layered yarn in which the core of the yarn is polyester and the sheath of the yarn is made of cotton fibers.As a result, the surface of the fabric is covered with cotton fibers, giving it a texture. It is cotton-like and has only polyester fibers gathered in the core, so it has good heat setting properties and has good washing durability. Furthermore, by pulling the fabric in the warp direction, the bending of the weft threads crossing at right angles to the warp threads is increased, causing the fabric to shrink in the weft direction. After temporarily fixing this state, the fabric is forcibly contracted in the warp direction. By completely fixing the form, the fabric can be processed to have high elasticity and excellent stretch recovery properties in the warp and weft directions, and to have washing resistance. The present invention will be described in more detail below. The method of the present invention consists of the following seven steps. First step: Create a multi-layered yarn whose core is 30% to 50% polyester short fibers and whose sheath is 70% to 50% cotton fibers. 2nd Step Using the multi-layer yarn from the 1st step, weave coarsely by 15% to 40% of the warp density, weft density and finished density of the fabric. 3rd step: The fabric is washed in hot water with a tension of 20 to 80 kg/m in the warp direction, and desizing, scouring, and bleaching are performed without tension, and then washed in hot water and dried again in the warp direction by 20 to 80 kg/m. 80
Process by applying tension of Kg/m. 4th step The fabric pretreated in the 3rd step is
Dyeing, soaping, and drying are performed under a tension of ~70Kg/m. Fifth step: Apply resin or setting agent to the fabric and dry. Sixth step: Leave the weft of the fabric as it is,
Forced mechanical shrinkage of 10% to 40% in the warp direction and temporary fixation. Seventh step: Completely heat set the forcibly shrunk fabric as it is. Only by combining the above seven steps can it be possible to obtain a fabric made of polyester/cotton that has the unique feel of cotton, and has a weft/warp stretch property that is durable against washing. Therefore, even if the conditions of any one of the seven steps described above are changed, it is not possible to obtain a fabric that has a feel unique to cotton and has good warp and warp elasticity. In other words, in the first step, if the proportion of polyester short fibers constituting the core of the yarn is less than 30%, the heat setting properties will be poor, and if it exceeds 50%, the coverage of the cotton fibers constituting the sheath will be poor, resulting in poor cotton fibers. It stops being likeable. The reason why polyester fiber is used for the thread core and cotton fiber is used for the thread sheath is as follows. (1) Since the polyester fibers are gathered in the core of the yarn, it has good shape retention when heat set and has good washing resistance. (2) When a finishing agent such as resin is applied to the textile and it is dried,
Since the resin and the like migrate to the surface layer (cotton layer) and react more on the cotton side, the reaction efficiency is improved and it is economical. (3) Since the cotton is exposed on the surface of the thread, that is, the surface of the fabric, the touch is cotton-like. If necessary, cotton fiber may be mixed into the core of the yarn as long as it is less than 20% cotton fiber based on polyester short fibers. If the temperature is higher than that, the heat set retention rate will decrease. 〓〓〓〓〓
When weaving ordinary textiles in the second step, the warp and weft density of the finished product is 0.
Although the weaving process is made coarser by ~10%, in the present invention, the warp and weft density is increased to make it easier to bend the warp and weft to make forced contraction easier, and to make the final finishing density the same as that of normal general woven fabrics. Density 15~
It is necessary to weave it 40% coarser. Therefore,
This weaving condition increases the bending of the weft yarns when tension is applied in the warp direction of the fabric during the dyeing and finishing process, and also facilitates forced contraction in the warp direction, making the final product have good elasticity and is the same as ordinary woven fabrics. It is possible to finish it to the standard. In the third step, applying tension of 20 to 80 kg/m in the warp direction again after hot water washing, desizing, and bleaching increases the bending of the weft threads that intersect at right angles to the warp threads, causing the fabric to shrink in the weft direction. The purpose is to cause Note that this tension of 20 to 80 Kg/m is a limited value in which a high degree of stretchability can be obtained, fabric breakage does not occur due to tension, and the feel does not deteriorate. Also, when washing in hot water, tension is applied in the warp direction to remove desizing and
By performing the steps of scouring and bleaching, relaxing under no tension, washing with hot water again, and applying warp tension during drying, distortion in the fabric can be eliminated and the weft yarns can be bent uniformly. Furthermore, by carrying out desizing and bleaching under no tension, it is possible to complete the reaction uniformly and quickly, and to prevent the occurrence of staining spots in the next step. In the 4th process, the tension in the warp direction must be slightly lower than in the previous process as follows:
Due to reasons (1) and (2). (1) High tension tends to cause staining spots. (2) Since the necessary width was added in the previous process, only the tension needed to hold it is needed in this process. In the fifth step, applying a resin or a setting agent is necessary to obtain processing durability on the cotton side of the fabric. Note that in order to facilitate forced contraction in the next step, it is desirable not to carry out curing. In the sixth step, as a method for forced shrinkage, it is desirable to use a sanphorizing machine or a camfit machine to carry out forced shrinkage and heat setting at the same time. In the seventh step, since sufficient heat fixation cannot be obtained from the viewpoint of production speed with only the previous step, further heat treatment is performed using a device such as a short loop heat treatment machine that can heat-treat the fabric without tension in both the weld and the weave. It is necessary to perfect the type fixation on the cotton side. Next, the method of the present invention will be explained using examples.
The present invention is not limited to this. In addition, the elongation rate and elastic recovery rate in the examples of the invention were measured by the following method. The samples with elongation rate and elastic recovery rate in the warp direction are as follows:
A woven fabric with a warp direction of 20 cm and a weft direction of 5 cm was used, and the samples for the elongation rate and elastic recovery rate in the weft direction were woven fabrics with a weft direction of 20 cm and a warp direction of 5 cm. The elongation of these samples was measured when a load of 2 kg was applied in the long direction, and the original length of the samples (20
cm) to determine the elongation rate. Next, stretch the sample by 20% in the long direction, hold this state for 3 minutes,
The amount of contraction one minute after the load was removed was compared with the original elongation rate (20 cm x 20/100) of the sample to determine the elastic recovery rate. Example 1 Poplin was woven under the following conditions using a multi-layer yarn in which the yarn core was made up of 45% polyester short fibers and the yarn sheath was made up of 55% cotton fibers. Count Woven Density Warp 34/- 92 threads/inch Weft 34/- 50 threads/inch After burning this poplin, 30 threads in the warp direction
Rinse with hot water in an oven soaper under tension of Kg/m, then remove the size, scouring, and
After bleaching, the fabric was washed again in hot water with an open soaper applying a tension of 30 kg/m in the warp direction, and dried in a cylinder. Next, a disperse dye/threne dye was applied and dried under a tension of 20 kg/m, the disperse dye was thermochromed at 210° C. for 40 seconds, and then a chemical solution was applied and steamed to develop a thren dye. Thereafter, it was soaped and dried using a soaper under a tension of 20 kg/m. The resin solution of Formulation 1 was applied using the fabric. Prescription 1 〓〓〓〓〓

[Table] Next, 25% in the warp direction with a cam fit processing machine.
Forced to shrink and heated to 160°C using a short loop heat treatment machine.
The shape was fixed by curing at ℃ for 2 minutes. The physical properties of the resulting fabric showed excellent stretchability and elastic recovery as shown in Table 1. Also, the texture was cotton-like.

[Table] Example 2 A twill was woven under the following conditions using a multi-layered yarn in which the yarn core was composed of 47% polyester short fibers and the yarn sheath was composed of 53% cotton fibers. Count Woven density Warp 22/- 95 threads/inch Weft 22/- 42 threads/inch After burning this twill, 45 kg/m in the warp direction
Rinse with hot water using an open soaper under tension of
It was dried in a hot water cylinder dryer under a tension of Kg/m. Next, a resin solution containing a fluorescent dye of the following formulation 2 was applied and dried. Prescription 2

[Table] Next, it was shrunk by 18% in the warp direction using a cam fit processing machine, and then heated at 160℃ x 2 using a short loop heat treatment machine.
The morphology was fixed by curing for a minute. The physical properties of the resulting fabric showed excellent stretchability and elastic recovery as shown in Table 2. Also, the texture was cotton-like.

[Table] 〓〓〓〓〓

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1 A multi-layered yarn whose core is made up of 30% to 50% polyester short fibers and yarn sheath made up of 70% to 50% cotton fibers is used for the warp and weft, and the finished density of each warp and weft is Weave the resulting fabric coarsely by 15% to 40%,
Wash with hot water and apply tension of 20 to 80 kg/m in the warp direction.
Desizing, scouring, and bleaching are performed without tension, and then during hot water washing and drying, a tension of 20 to 80 kg/m is applied again in the warp direction to straighten the warp as much as possible and bend the weft. Then, the fabric is dyed and soaped in the warp direction with a tension of 10 to 70 kg/m, and a resin or setting agent is applied to the fabric and dried, leaving the weft as it is. A cotton-like process characterized by mechanically forcing 10% to 40% in the warp direction and temporarily fixing the bending of the warp, and then completely heat setting with the warp and weft in a strongly bent state. Manufacturing method for stretch fabrics.