JPH0651957B2 - Weft-stretchable fabric manufacturing method - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION [Object of the Invention] (Field of Industrial Application) The present invention provides a method for producing a weft stretchable fabric, which is capable of improving stretchability by imparting stretchability to a plain fabric in the weft direction. Regarding

(Prior Art) As a method for manufacturing a weft-stretchable fabric of this kind, one in which a weft-stretchable fabric is produced by applying tension in the warp direction and bending the weft yarn in the post-processing of the fabric, Japanese Patent Publication No.45-3
Although it is known as described in Japanese Patent No. 4799,
Since woven fabrics that do not use deluxe yarns or false twisted yarns have insufficient fixability, most of them supplement the effect with the aid of the finishing resin agent. Further, the woven fabric provided with a high stretchability of 10% or more by these methods has a problem that the stretch recovery property is poor and it takes a long time to recover or is difficult to restore.

There is also a method in which false-twisted yarn or spandex yarn of thermoplastic synthetic fiber is used to impart stretchability in the post-processing, but this method has 10% or more stretchability of the woven fabric and good recoverability. Although a good woven fabric can be obtained, the management of the processing process is complicated and the cost becomes high.

(Problems to be Solved by the Invention) When spandex yarn or the like is used for the fabric as described above, the fabric can be imparted with high stretchability in the weft direction, but the process becomes complicated and the cost becomes high. .

Therefore, an object of the present invention is to provide a method for producing a weft stretchable fabric having high stretchability and high recovery in the weft direction without using elastic yarn such as spandex.

[Structure of Invention]

(Means for Solving Problems) In the method for manufacturing a weft stretchable fabric of the present invention, a plain fabric woven using polyester spun yarn for warp and weft is prepared, and tension is applied to the plain fabric in the warp direction. Desizing, scouring, and bleaching under the above conditions, heat treatment is applied to the treated plain fabric under tension applied in the warp direction, and heat setting is performed. Is subjected to a drying treatment while applying a plane pressure under the condition that a tension is applied to it, and then the treated plain weave is dyed at a high temperature in the warp direction under no tension.

(Working) In the method for producing a weft-stretchable fabric of the present invention, a plain fabric having polyester spun yarns as warps and wefts is subjected to desizing by applying tension in the warp direction, and scouring and bleaching treatment to form straight warp yarns. In addition, by making a plain woven fabric in which the weft is bent, and applying heat tension to this plain woven fabric in the warp direction, the plain woven fabric is heat set in this state, and then the heat set plain woven fabric is Winding with stretchability in the weft direction by applying high-temperature dyeing treatment to the treated plain woven fabric by drying it while applying plane pressure under the condition of applying tension in the warp direction to make the surface smooth A weft elastic fabric that fits well
It can be made without using elastic threads such as spandex.

(Embodiment) An embodiment of the present invention will be described below with reference to the drawings.

FIG. 1 shows a block diagram of a method for producing a weft-stretchable fabric according to the present invention. The woven fabric to be treated is a polyester spun yarn of 20'S spun using polyester short fibers as a warp and a weft. A plain woven fabric having a density of 50 yarns / inch and a weft density of 42 yarns / inch (Fig. 2
It is (a).

Under the condition that a tension of 10 kg to 60 kg / m is applied in the warp direction to the plain weave, the warp yarns are made straight and the warp yarns are bent as much as possible by adding desizing, scouring and bleaching treatment.

Then, the treated plain fabric is fed into a high-pressure kettle or a high-temperature steamer, in which the tension of the previous step or more, that is, 20 kg to 8 kg.
By applying 0 kg / m, the bending of the weft yarn is further increased until the expansion and contraction of the weft yarn is more than the target, and in this state, the heat setting treatment is performed at 110 ° C. or higher, preferably 110 ° C. to 200 ° C., with hot water, heated steam or the like. And dry (Fig. 2 (b)).

The wet-heat treated plain woven fabric is subjected to dry heat treatment at 150 ° C. to 210 ° C. while applying a flat pressure to the surface of the woven fabric while applying a tension of 20 kg to 80 kg / m and finally fixing the plain woven fabric. (Fig. 2 (c)).

Finally, the dry-heat treated plain woven fabric is subjected to normal dyeing with a jet high-pressure dyeing cloth without tension (Fig. 2 (d)).

After this, the usual finishing process will be carried out with care not to destroy the structure of the finished fabric.

The weft stretch fabric made through the above process has a weft elongation rate of 13
It is a high-performance weft-stretched woven fabric with a recovery rate of -20% to 88% or more, and has a good feel to the touch.

In addition, in the wet heat treatment step, the elongation is 15% or more at a temperature of 100 ° C. or higher, which is higher than that in the previous step of the atmospheric pressure treatment, and a high tension of 20 to 80 kg / m. 11 in this state
The treatment is carried out at a temperature of 0 ° C. or higher, preferably at a temperature higher than the dyeing temperature, and heat fixing is performed. The target elongation rate needs to be set to 2-3% higher because there is a loss in the subsequent process. As for the treatment equipment, tension is reversed in a high-pressure pot to invert and process in steam or hot water, or tension is applied with a high-temperature steamer to heat-set the warp and weft structure with heating steam. If this is followed by quenching, it is even more effective. Dry for the next process so that the width is not widened.

Next, an experimental example is shown.

(Experimental Example 1) Raw warp polyester 20 / S spun yarn × weft Polyester 20 / S spun yarn Warp density 50 pcs / inch × Weft density 42 pcs / inch Processing conditions Desizing and scouring is performed in the warp direction with a pad steamer. A tension of 35 kgm was applied, and then the moist heat tension set was subjected to 45 kg / m of tension in a hot bath at 135 ° C for 45 minutes with a high-pressure jigger, and dried in a cylinder dryer. Next, a roller setter is used to perform a dry heat treatment on a flat surface at 180 ° C for 1 minute under a tension of 40kg / m, and a disperse dye is dyed with a high-pressure rapid dyeing machine at 130 ° C for 45 minutes. It was dried and then treated with an antistatic agent softening agent in the same machine and dried. As a result, the following expansion and contraction characteristics could be obtained.

40kg in Experimental Example 2 Raw locations via polyester 20/2 ^'S yarns × weft polyester ^{5' S} spun yarn through density 40 yarns / inch × weft density 30 yarns / inch machining conditions glue抜精kneading Jitsuga / m tension, then high temperature steamer at 165 ° C for 3 minutes with superheated steam to apply tension 45 kg / m for wet heat tension set, then roller setter at 180 ° C for 1 minute tension 45 kg / m. Then, it was subjected to a flat dry heat treatment, dyed with a disperse dye at 135 ° C. for 30 minutes with a high-pressure rapid dyeing machine, and dried in a short range butter with a wide width. Next, it was treated with an antistatic agent and a texture modifier in the same machine and then dried as usual.

[Effects of the Invention] As described above, according to the present invention, the plain weave using polyester spun yarn for the warp and the weft imparts the characteristics of the weft elongation of 13% or more and the recovery of 88% or more. It is a weft-stretch woven fabric that has a better texture than that of No. 1, and has a warp elongation of 1
The effect is that puckering due to sewing is not generated, and that when sewing as garment, defective phenomena such as pulling out of the elbow and pulling out of the knee do not occur.

[Brief description of drawings]

FIG. 1 is a block diagram of a method for producing a warp elastic fabric according to the present invention, and FIG. 2 is a sectional view showing a state in each step of a plain fabric to be treated.

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. A state in which a plain weave is woven by using polyester spun yarn as a warp and a weft, and the weft is bent by performing desizing, scouring and bleaching treatment under a condition in which tension is applied to the plain weave in the warp direction. Then, the treated plain woven fabric is heat-set by performing heat treatment under a condition that tension is applied in the warp direction, and the heat-set plain woven fabric is subjected to a plane pressure under a condition where tension is applied in the warp direction. A method for producing a weft-stretchable woven fabric, which is characterized in that it is subjected to a drying treatment while being subjected to a high-temperature dyeing treatment in the warp direction without tension in the warp direction.