JPH05321167A - Fabric with special pattern and its production - Google Patents

Fabric with special pattern and its production

Info

Publication number
JPH05321167A
JPH05321167A JP4156057A JP15605792A JPH05321167A JP H05321167 A JPH05321167 A JP H05321167A JP 4156057 A JP4156057 A JP 4156057A JP 15605792 A JP15605792 A JP 15605792A JP H05321167 A JPH05321167 A JP H05321167A
Authority
JP
Japan
Prior art keywords
fabric
degree
acetylation
acetate
cloth
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Pending
Application number
JP4156057A
Other languages
Japanese (ja)
Inventor
Hiroshi Shibaoka
浩 柴岡
Takero Nakamura
健朗 中村
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Kanebo Ltd
Original Assignee
Kanebo Ltd
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Kanebo Ltd filed Critical Kanebo Ltd
Priority to JP4156057A priority Critical patent/JPH05321167A/en
Publication of JPH05321167A publication Critical patent/JPH05321167A/en
Pending legal-status Critical Current

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  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
  • Coloring (AREA)
  • Chemical Or Physical Treatment Of Fibers (AREA)
  • Decoration Of Textiles (AREA)

Abstract

PURPOSE:To provide the subject fabric differing in degree of coloredness by portions and to provide the method for producing such fabrics in high operational stability at industrially low cost. CONSTITUTION:Portions differing in degree of acetylation from one another are provided in a patterned fashion on the surface of an acetate-based fiber fabric, and the fibers are multicolored in accordance with the degree of acetylation. The production method for this fabric is as follows: an acetate-based fiber fabric is subjected to wrinkling treatment, then continuously saponified with an alkali and then dyed.

Description

【発明の詳細な説明】Detailed Description of the Invention

【0001】[0001]

【産業上の利用分野】本発明はアセテート系繊維を用い
た特殊模様布帛およびその製造方法に関する。
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a special pattern fabric using acetate fibers and a method for producing the same.

【0002】[0002]

【従来の技術】アセテート系繊維布帛に皺を付与する加
工については従来より種々行われている。例えば乾熱又
は湿熱状態で、物理的な圧力を加えて皺を付与する物理
的方法、樹脂を使用し、パッド後、皺付け、熱処理を行
う樹脂加工方法等がある。しかし、この様な従来の方法
では皺の耐久性は洗濯数回程度しかない。
2. Description of the Related Art Various processes for imparting wrinkles to an acetate fiber cloth have been conventionally performed. For example, there are a physical method of applying wrinkles by applying physical pressure in a dry heat or wet heat state, a resin processing method of using a resin, wrinkling, and heat treatment after padding. However, with such a conventional method, the durability of wrinkles is only about a few times of washing.

【0003】そこで、皺付け加工にかわり、種々の皺模
様を有する布帛の製造方法が検討されてきた。例えば特
開昭48−96887号公報には、布帛をロープ状に集
束するかおよび/または押込捲縮をなし、これと同時も
しくは直後に染色して布帛に皺模様を発現せしめる方法
が、また特開昭59−15582号公報には、立体状に
ある編織物をパディングおよび/またはコーティング方
式にて染顔料を付与するに際し、該方式の押圧時に該編
織物を15〜75%重ねてパディングおよび/またはコ
ーティングすることにより皺模様を発現せしめる方法
が、また特開平2−154059号公報には合成繊維か
らなる布帛にロープ状態で90〜140℃の熱水処理を
施し、その後顔料を含む溶液をコーティングし、しかる
後揉布することにより皺模様を発現せしめる方法が提案
されている。
Therefore, in place of the wrinkling process, a method for producing a cloth having various wrinkle patterns has been studied. For example, in JP-A-48-9687, there is a method in which a cloth is bundled into a rope shape and / or is subjected to indentation crimping, and a wrinkle pattern is developed on the cloth by dyeing at the same time or immediately after that. KAISHO 59-15582 discloses that when a dye and pigment is applied to a three-dimensional knitted fabric by a padding and / or coating system, the knitted fabric is padded and / or overlapped by 15 to 75% when the system is pressed. Alternatively, a method of developing a wrinkle pattern by coating is disclosed, and in JP-A-2-154059, a cloth made of synthetic fibers is subjected to hot water treatment at 90 to 140 ° C. in a rope state, and then coated with a solution containing a pigment. However, a method of developing a wrinkle pattern by kneading after that is proposed.

【0004】[0004]

【発明が解決しようとする課題】しかしながら、特開昭
48−96887号公報及び特開昭59−15582号
公報の方法は、染色時に皺の状態で染料を付与するもの
であるので部分的に染色されず、白場が残る場合がある
という欠点を有す。また、特開平2−154059号公
報の方法は、顔料を固着するためにバインダーを用いる
ので、風合が硬いという欠点を有す。
However, the methods disclosed in JP-A-48-96878 and JP-A-59-15582 are for dyeing in a wrinkled state at the time of dyeing, and are therefore partially dyed. However, there is a drawback that a white spot may remain. Further, the method disclosed in Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2-154059 has a drawback that the texture is hard because a binder is used to fix the pigment.

【0005】[0005]

【課題を解決するための手段】本発明者等は、アセテー
ト系繊維布帛に皺付け加工を施し、その後アルカリで連
続的にケン化処理することにより、上記問題が解決さ
れ、しかも操業安定性よく、工業的安価に特殊模様を有
する布帛が得られることを見出した。
Means for Solving the Problems The present inventors solved the above problems by wrinkling the acetate fiber cloth and then continuously saponifying with an alkali, and the operation stability was improved. Found that a fabric having a special pattern can be obtained industrially at low cost.

【0006】すなわち本発明はアセテート系繊維布帛の
表面に酢化度の異なる部分が模様状に形成され、該酢化
度に応じてアセテート系繊維が異色に着色されているこ
とを特徴とする特殊模様布帛である。
That is, the present invention is characterized in that a portion having a different acetylation degree is formed in a pattern on the surface of an acetate fiber cloth, and the acetate fiber is colored in a different color according to the acetylation degree. It is a patterned fabric.

【0007】以下、本発明について説明する。The present invention will be described below.

【0008】本発明において酢化度とは、アセテート系
繊維をアルカリによりケン化した時の酢化度をいう。
In the present invention, the degree of acetylation means the degree of acetylation when acetate fibers are saponified with an alkali.

【0009】従来の特殊模様布帛において、酢化度の異
なる部分が模様状に形成され、この酢化度に応じてアセ
テート系繊維が異色に着色されているものはない。
There is no conventional special pattern cloth in which portions having different acetylation degrees are formed in a pattern and the acetate fibers are colored differently depending on the acetylation degree.

【0010】このような本発明の特殊模様布帛は、アセ
テート系繊維布帛に皺付け加工を施した後、アルカリで
連続的にケン化処理し、しかる後着色することを特徴と
する特殊模様布帛の製造方法により製造することができ
る。
Such a special pattern cloth of the present invention is a special pattern cloth characterized in that the acetate fiber cloth is subjected to wrinkling, then continuously saponified with alkali, and then colored. It can be manufactured by the manufacturing method.

【0011】本発明においてアセテート系繊維とはジア
セテート,トリアセテートなどであるが、発明効果,利
用価値の点から最も好ましいものはトリアセテートであ
る。アセテート系繊維は単独あるいは混紡,交織等によ
り他の繊維と混用して用いてもよく、混用の場合、アセ
テート系繊維を50重量%以上含有するものが挙げられ
る。
In the present invention, the acetate fibers are diacetate, triacetate and the like, and the most preferable one is triacetate from the viewpoint of the effect of the invention and the utility value. The acetate fiber may be used alone or mixed with other fibers by blended spinning, mixed weaving or the like. In the case of being mixed, a fiber containing 50% by weight or more of the acetate fiber may be used.

【0012】そして、かかるアセテート系繊維布帛に、
以下に述べる皺付け加工,ケン化処理,染色又は捺染に
よる着色処理を順次施す。
Then, in such an acetate fiber cloth,
The following wrinkling process, saponification process, and coloring process by dyeing or printing are sequentially performed.

【0013】本発明で云う皺付け加工としては物理的な
圧力や熱水処理により皺形状を付与する方法等が挙げら
れ例えば、マングル,エンボスローラ,縮絨機,ワッシ
ャー加工機,液流染色機等の装置を利用したり、アセテ
ート系繊維布帛を折畳んで加圧し保持したりする方法等
がある。
Examples of the wrinkling process in the present invention include a method of imparting a wrinkle shape by physical pressure or hot water treatment, and examples thereof include a mangle, an embossing roller, a compression machine, a washer processing machine, and a jet dyeing machine. And the like, or a method in which an acetate fiber cloth is folded and pressed and held.

【0014】次いでかかる布帛にアルカリを連続的に付
与しケン化処理を行う。本発明においてはアルカリとし
て、水酸化ナトリウム,水酸化カリウム,水酸化リチウ
ム,水酸化セシウム等のアルカリ金属水酸化物が使用可
能であるが、水酸化ナトリウムを用いるのが一般的であ
る。そして、かかるアルカリを連続的に付与する方法と
しては、パッド・スチーム法が挙げられる。そしてアル
カリの濃度は、アセテート系繊維100重量部に対して
5〜20重量部付着するようにするのが好ましい。ま
た、スチームは90〜150℃で0.5〜30分間行う
のが好ましい。かかるケン化処理を浸漬法等のバッチ処
理で行うと、ケン化処理が均一に行われるためにバッチ
処理は本発明では用いることは出来ない。
Next, the cloth is subjected to saponification treatment by continuously applying an alkali. In the present invention, alkali metal hydroxides such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide and cesium hydroxide can be used as the alkali, but sodium hydroxide is generally used. And as a method of continuously applying such an alkali, a pad steam method can be mentioned. The alkali concentration is preferably 5 to 20 parts by weight based on 100 parts by weight of the acetate fiber. Further, steam is preferably performed at 90 to 150 ° C. for 0.5 to 30 minutes. When the saponification treatment is performed by a batch treatment such as a dipping method, the saponification treatment is uniformly performed, and therefore the batch treatment cannot be used in the present invention.

【0015】次いで、これらの布帛を染色,捺染等によ
り公知の方法で着色するのであるが、その際には通常の
アセテート系繊維に用いられている染料、例えば分散染
料,顕色染料,塩基性染料などや通常のセルロース系繊
維に用いられている染料、例えば反応性染料を用いるこ
とができる。そして使用染料に応じた固着方法により固
着処理を施す。
Next, these cloths are colored by a known method such as dyeing and printing. At that time, dyes used for ordinary acetate fibers such as disperse dyes, color developing dyes and basic dyes are used. It is possible to use dyes and the like, and dyes that are commonly used in cellulosic fibers, such as reactive dyes. Then, a fixing process is performed by a fixing method according to the dye used.

【0016】以上の様に染色,捺染等により着色を施し
た布帛は必要に応じて柔軟剤処理等の仕上加工を行う。
着色上がりの布帛は酢化度に応じて模様が異色に着色さ
れている。
The cloth colored by dyeing, printing or the like as described above is subjected to finishing processing such as softening treatment, if necessary.
The pattern of the as-colored fabric is colored differently depending on the degree of acetylation.

【0017】[0017]

【作用】本発明は上記の様に構成したので、皺付け加工
により生じた皺部分は、アルカリで連続的にケン化処理
した場合に、アルカリのピックアップ率の相違により酢
化度の異なる部分を生ずる様になり、この状態の布帛を
着色することにより酢化度の相違により皺模様を有する
製品が得られるようになる。
Since the present invention is configured as described above, the wrinkle portion generated by the wrinkling process is a portion having a different acetylation degree due to the difference in the pick-up rate of alkali when continuously saponified with alkali. When the cloth in this state is colored, a product having a wrinkle pattern can be obtained due to the difference in the degree of acetylation.

【0018】すなわち、酢化度の減少の少ない部分はア
セテート系繊維用染料で染まりやすく、一方セルロース
系繊維用染料では染まりにくく、また酢化度の減少の大
の部分はアセテート系繊維用染料で染まりにくく、一方
セルロース系繊維用染料では染まりやすいので、アセテ
ート系繊維用染料又はセルロース系繊維用染料を用いて
染色した場合に酢化度に応じて異色に着色されるように
なるのである。
That is, a portion with a small decrease in acetylation degree is easily dyed with a dye for acetate fiber, while a dye with cellulose fiber is less likely to be dyed, and a large decrease in acetylation degree is with a dye for acetate fiber. It is difficult to dye, while dyeing easily with a dye for cellulosic fibers, when dyed with a dye for acetate fibers or a dye for cellulosic fibers, it becomes colored differently depending on the degree of acetylation.

【0019】[0019]

【実施例】以下、本発明を実施例に基づき詳細に説明す
る。
EXAMPLES The present invention will be described in detail below based on examples.

【0020】実施例1 経糸,緯糸共にトリアセテート/ポリエステル交絡糸
(トリアセテート77%,ポリエステル23%)で、経
糸密度78本/吋,緯糸密度72本/吋からなる平織物
を精練し、その後北陸化工機(株)製のロコ型液流染色
機で浴比1:15で135℃×60分熱水処理し皺付け
加工を施した。
Example 1 A plain woven fabric having a warp density of 78 yarns / inch and a weft yarn density of 72 yarns / inch was scoured with triacetate / polyester entangled yarns (77% triacetate, 23% polyester) for both warp and weft, and then Hokuriku Kako Machine was used to make hot water treatment at 135 ° C. for 60 minutes at a bath ratio of 1:15 and wrinkle treatment.

【0021】このように皺付け加工処理された平織物
を、水酸化ナトリウム105g/ l,ネオレートNA3
0(浸透剤,日華化学(株)社製)10g/ lを含む水
溶液に浸漬し、搾液してピックアップ率40重量%で処
理液を平織物に付与した。直ちに107℃で15分スチ
ーミング処理を行い連続的にケン化処理した。
The plain woven fabric thus wrinkled was treated with sodium hydroxide 105 g / l, neolate NA3
0 (penetrant, manufactured by Nichika Chemical Co., Ltd.) was dipped in an aqueous solution containing 10 g / l, squeezed, and the treatment liquid was applied to the plain fabric at a pickup rate of 40% by weight. Immediately, steaming treatment was carried out at 107 ° C. for 15 minutes for continuous saponification treatment.

【0022】このようにケン化処理した平織物を分散染
料としてディスパーC.I.ブルー94を3.6%o.
w.f.使用し、高圧液流染色機で130℃で60分染
色し、しかる後120℃で3分間熱風式フローティング
乾燥機で乾燥し、実施例1の製品を得た。
The plain fabric thus saponified is used as a disperse dye in Dispers C.I. I. Blue 94 3.6% o.
w. f. The product was used, dyed with a high-pressure jet dyeing machine at 130 ° C. for 60 minutes, and then dried with a hot-air floating dryer at 120 ° C. for 3 minutes to obtain the product of Example 1.

【0023】比較例1 実施例1と同様の平織物を用いて、実施例1の工程中水
酸化ナトリウムを用いてケン化処理する部分を除き、実
施例1と同様の処理を行い比較例1の製品を得た。
Comparative Example 1 The same process as in Example 1 was carried out using the same plain weave as in Example 1 except that the saponification process was carried out using sodium hydroxide in the process of Example 1. Got the product.

【0024】本発明による製品は特殊模様を有する斑染
となったが、比較例の製品は均一な染色品となった。
The product according to the present invention was spot dyed with a special pattern, while the product of the comparative example was a uniform dyed product.

【0025】[0025]

【発明の効果】本発明に係る皺模様を有するアセテート
系繊維布帛は、昨今衣料,インテリア等の諸分野で要求
されているユニーク性,ファッション性の動向に適合
し、これらの新規用途の開拓を促すものである。更に本
発明方法に従えば、操業安定性良くまた安価に布帛に皺
模様を施すことが出来る。
EFFECTS OF THE INVENTION The wrinkle-patterned acetate fiber cloth according to the present invention is suitable for the trends of uniqueness and fashionability which have recently been required in various fields such as clothing and interior, and the development of these new applications is possible. It is a stimulus. Further, according to the method of the present invention, the wrinkle pattern can be applied to the cloth with good operation stability and at low cost.

───────────────────────────────────────────────────── フロントページの続き (51)Int.Cl.5 識別記号 庁内整理番号 FI 技術表示箇所 // D06C 23/00 ─────────────────────────────────────────────────── ─── Continuation of front page (51) Int.Cl. 5 Identification code Internal reference number FI technical display area // D06C 23/00

Claims (2)

【特許請求の範囲】[Claims] 【請求項1】 アセテート系繊維布帛の表面に酢化度の
異なる部分が模様状に形成され、該酢化度に応じてアセ
テート系繊維が異色に着色されていることを特徴とする
特殊模様布帛。
1. A special pattern fabric, characterized in that a portion having a different acetylation degree is formed in a pattern on the surface of an acetate fiber cloth, and the acetate fiber is colored differently according to the acetylation degree. .
【請求項2】 アセテート系繊維布帛に皺付け加工を施
した後、アルカリで連続的にケン化処理し、しかる後着
色することを特徴とする特殊模様布帛の製造方法。
2. A method for producing a special pattern fabric, which comprises subjecting an acetate fiber fabric to wrinkling, continuously saponifying with an alkali, and then coloring.
JP4156057A 1992-05-21 1992-05-21 Fabric with special pattern and its production Pending JPH05321167A (en)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP4156057A JPH05321167A (en) 1992-05-21 1992-05-21 Fabric with special pattern and its production

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP4156057A JPH05321167A (en) 1992-05-21 1992-05-21 Fabric with special pattern and its production

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
JPH05321167A true JPH05321167A (en) 1993-12-07

Family

ID=15619364

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
JP4156057A Pending JPH05321167A (en) 1992-05-21 1992-05-21 Fabric with special pattern and its production

Country Status (1)

Country Link
JP (1) JPH05321167A (en)

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPH06330469A (en) * 1993-05-21 1994-11-29 Mitsubishi Rayon Co Ltd Production of novel conjugate yarn containing acetate fiber
JP2007277760A (en) * 2006-04-06 2007-10-25 Komatsu Seiren Co Ltd Method for producing fiber product

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPH06330469A (en) * 1993-05-21 1994-11-29 Mitsubishi Rayon Co Ltd Production of novel conjugate yarn containing acetate fiber
JP2007277760A (en) * 2006-04-06 2007-10-25 Komatsu Seiren Co Ltd Method for producing fiber product

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