JP3491552B2 - Method for producing stretch woven or knitted fabric comprising cellulosic fibers - Google Patents

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a method for producing a stretch-woven or knitted fabric made of a cellulosic fiber capable of imparting excellent stretchability to a woven or knitted fabric made of a cellulosic fiber.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Heretofore, the following methods have been known as methods for imparting stretchability to a woven or knitted material composed of cellulosic fibers.

(1) Woven and knitted fabrics and mixed woven and knitted fabrics using composite yarns of elastic yarns such as polyurethane and cellulosic fibers, in which elastic yarns are stretched to form yarns, woven fabrics and knitted fabrics. , A method of utilizing the stretchability and shrinkability of this elastic yarn. (2) A woven or knitted product using a composite yarn of a synthetic fiber and a cellulosic fiber, which is a method of utilizing the crimping and torque of the synthetic fiber. The synthetic fiber is generally a long fiber such as polyester. A method using a false twist textured yarn and a conjugate yarn. (3) A woven or knitted fabric using a yarn composed of a strongly twisted yarn of a cellulosic fiber such as cotton, and when dyeing the woven or knitted fabric,
A method that utilizes the property that the torque of a strongly twisted yarn is expressed and the yarn has a spiral shape. (4) This is a technique called slack mercerizing (commonly known as chemical stretch), which utilizes the property of swelling and shrinking of cellulose fibers when a woven or knitted fabric using a yarn composed of cellulosic fibers such as cotton is treated with caustic soda. By the method.

[0004]

However, a woven or knitted fabric using the composite yarn of the elastic yarn such as polyurethane (1) and the cellulosic fiber, and the composite of the synthetic fiber and the cellulosic fiber (2). In woven and knitted fabrics using yarn,
There is a problem that it is difficult to obtain the unique touch and physical properties of cellulosic fibers such as cotton.

The stretch woven or knitted material of cellulosic fibers produced by the above methods (3) and (4) has stretchability and shrinkability, but has poor stretchback force (kickback force) and has a low market evaluation. There is a problem.

That is, according to the above methods (3) and (4), the woven or knitted material of cellulosic fibers is provided with extensibility and shrinkability, but these have a low recovery rate after elongation and have a commercial value. In order to solve this drawback, the yarn has a contracted state, or a state in which a torque is developed and has a spiral shape, and is subjected to heat treatment under high temperature and high pressure or glyoxal-based resin processing to make the yarn Although the shape is fixed, there is a problem that neither is sufficient.

The method (4) of imparting stretchability by the slack mercerizing method is a caustic soda treatment in a tension-free state in the weft direction. However, caustic soda is a water-soluble system and penetrates into cellulosic fibers. Is bad,
Moreover, there is a problem that the swelling effect of the cellulosic fiber is small and the shrinkage cannot be sufficiently imparted.

The present invention has been made in view of the above problems, and provides a woven or knitted fabric composed of cellulosic fibers with excellent stretchability while maintaining the unique texture and feel of the cellulosic fibers. It is an object of the present invention to provide a method for producing a stretch woven or knitted fabric composed of cellulosic fibers that can be added.

[0009]

Means for Solving the Problems and Modes for Carrying Out the Invention As a result of intensive studies to achieve the above-mentioned object, the present inventor found that 20% was obtained by treating liquid ammonia in a tension-free state.
A woven or knitted product made of a cellulose-based fiber that contracts as described above is treated with liquid ammonia in a tension-free state, so that ammonia penetrates into the cellulose-based fiber at the same time as crystal conversion to swell the fiber and increase the diameter of the fiber, The fiber shrinks in the length direction, and as a result, the woven or knitted material shrinks greatly, and excellent stretchability can be imparted. Also, the cellulose fiber in such a contracted state is treated with high temperature water or steam. Or by applying an alkali treatment,
The contracted state is fixed as a more stable shape, and even if stress is applied to the woven or knitted fabric, the property (recovery force) of returning to the contracted shape effectively works, resulting in a high elongation rate and a high recovery rate after elongation. It was found that a stretch woven or knitted fabric made of a cellulosic fiber having excellent stretch performance, which is excellent in stretchability and has durability, can be obtained, and has completed the present invention.

Accordingly, the present invention is, firstly, that a woven or knitted fabric made of cellulosic fibers that shrinks by 20% or more by the liquid ammonia treatment in the non-strained state is subjected to the liquid ammonia treatment in the non-strained state, and then subjected to high temperature water treatment or steam. By treating the woven or knitted fabric before the liquid ammonia treatment, 2
A method for producing a stretch woven or knitted fabric made of a cellulosic fiber characterized by shrinking by 0% or more, and secondly,
A woven or knitted fabric made of a cellulosic fiber that shrinks by 20% or more when treated with liquid ammonia in a non-tensioned state is subjected to a liquid ammonia treatment in a non-tensioned state and then subjected to an alkali treatment.
Provided is a method for producing a stretch woven or knitted fabric made of a cellulosic fiber, which is characterized by shrinking by at least%.

In this case, it is preferable that the tension-free state in the liquid ammonia treatment of the first and second inventions is in the weft direction with respect to the woven or knitted fabric from the viewpoint of improving productivity.

Further, as a result of further earnest studies, the present inventor has found that similarly excellent stretch performance can be imparted by another method.

That is, when a woven or knitted fabric obtained by weaving or knitting a strongly twisted yarn made of a cellulosic fiber is subjected to a relaxation treatment, the twist of the strongly twisted yarn is relaxed and torque is generated, so that the yarn tends to change into a spiral shape. A torque force is generated, and the torque force causes the woven and knitted fabric to strongly contract, and the woven and knitted fabric in this contracted state (the state in which the threads are in a spiral shape) is treated with liquid ammonia in a non-tensioned state or a slight tensioned state. In addition, excellent stretchability can be imparted, and the woven or knitted fabric treated with liquid ammonia in such a contracted state can be fixed more firmly in the contracted state by high-temperature water treatment, steam treatment or alkali treatment. Therefore, the woven and knitted fabric has a property (recovery force) of returning to the contracted shape even if the woven or knitted fabric is stressed and expanded. It has been found that a stretch woven or knitted fabric made of a cellulosic fiber, which has a high elongation rate and a high recovery rate after elongation and which is durable and has excellent stretch performance that has never been obtained, can be obtained. Invented.

Therefore, thirdly, the present invention is characterized in that a woven or knitted fabric obtained by weaving or knitting a strongly twisted yarn made of a cellulosic fiber is subjected to a relaxation treatment and then subjected to liquid ammonia treatment in a non-tensed state or a slightly tense state. A method for producing a stretch woven or knitted fabric made of a cellulosic fiber, and fourthly, a liquid ammonia in a tension-free state or a slight tensioned state after a woven or knitted fabric obtained by weaving or knitting a strongly twisted yarn made of a cellulosic fiber is relaxed. A method for producing a stretch woven or knitted fabric made of a cellulosic fiber, which is characterized by performing a high temperature water treatment or a steam treatment, and fifth, a woven or knitted fabric made by weaving or knitting a strongly twisted yarn made of a cellulosic fiber. Celluloze characterized by being treated with liquid ammonia in a non-tensed state or a slight tension state, and then treated with an alkali after the treatment. To provide a method of manufacturing a stretch woven or knitted fabric made of the system fiber.

In this case, in the liquid ammonia treatment of the third to fifth inventions, it is preferable that the tension-free state or a slight tension state is in the weft direction with respect to the woven or knitted fabric from the viewpoint of improving productivity.

Further, the inventor of the present invention performs any one of the production methods of the above-mentioned first to fifth inventions, and performs resin processing on the woven or knitted article imparted with excellent stretchability, so that it is more excellent. It was found that stretchability can be imparted.

Therefore, a sixth aspect of the present invention is a stretch woven or knitted fabric made of a cellulosic fiber characterized by performing the method according to any one of the first to fifth aspects of the invention and then subjecting it to resin processing. A method for manufacturing the same is provided.

The present invention will be described in more detail below.
The method for producing a stretch woven or knitted fabric made of a cellulosic fiber according to the first and second aspects of the present invention is a woven or knitted fabric made of a cellulosic fiber that shrinks by 20% or more by a liquid ammonia treatment in a tensionless state. Liquid ammonia treatment, or high temperature water treatment or steam treatment or alkali treatment after that.

Here, as the cellulosic fiber, cotton,
Examples include natural fibers such as hemp, regenerated cellulose fibers such as rayon, cupra and lyocell, and semisynthetic fibers such as acetate, and these may be used alone or in combination. In this case, the cellulosic fiber is usually 50% cotton fiber.
Or more, more preferably 70% or more, and further preferably cotton 1
It is preferably 100% from the viewpoint of imparting excellent stretchability. In addition, these natural and regenerated cellulose fibers or semi-synthetic fibers may be mixed with other fibers such as synthetic fibers such as polyester and polyamide within a range not impairing the object of the present invention.

The above-mentioned cellulosic fiber is twisted by a usual spinning method to form a yarn, and the yarn is woven or knitted by a usual method to obtain a woven or knitted product made of the cellulosic fiber.
The yarn made of this cellulosic fiber may be either a normal twist yarn or a strong twist yarn, but a strong twist yarn is preferable from the viewpoint of imparting stretchability.

The woven or knitted fabric made of the cellulosic fibers used in the first and second inventions of the present invention is treated with liquid ammonia in a tension-free state described later, so that the ammonia is quickly permeated into the cellulosic fibers constituting the woven or knitted fabric. And swell, the diameter of the fiber becomes thicker, and it shrinks in the length direction of the fiber,
As a result, the woven / knitted fabric shrinks by 20% or more. When the contraction rate is less than 20%, the contraction due to the liquid ammonia treatment in the non-tensed state is small, so that the stretchability is insufficiently expressed. In this case, the shrinkage rate of the woven or knitted fabric is woven density,
This can be achieved by appropriately adjusting the woven structure and the like.

First, in the method for producing a stretch woven or knitted material made of cellulosic fibers according to the first and second aspects of the present invention, the woven or knitted material made of cellulosic fibers is treated with liquid ammonia in a tensionless state.

The liquid ammonia treatment is carried out in a tension-free state, but it is particularly preferable that the tension-free state is in the weft direction with respect to the woven or knitted fabric. This is because by treating the woven and knitted fabric with ammonia in a tension direction in the weft direction and in a tension state in the warp direction, it is possible to continuously perform a large amount of treatment as compared with the case where ammonia treatment is performed in a tension-free state in all directions. This is because productivity can be improved.

For the liquid ammonia treatment, for example, a method of impregnating the woven or knitted fabric in liquid ammonia held at a temperature of −33 ° C. or lower, a method of spraying or coating liquid ammonia, and the like can be adopted. In this case, the impregnation time of liquid ammonia is appropriately selected, but normally about 5 to 40 seconds is suitable.

In the liquid ammonia treatment, liquid ammonia is most commonly used, but in some cases, a lower alkylamine such as methylamine or ethylamine can be used. The liquid ammonia-treated woven or knitted fabric removes the attached ammonia by heating.

As described above, the liquid ammonia treatment in a tension-free state causes the woven or knitted fabric made of cellulosic fibers to be shrunk by 20% or more, and imparts excellent stretchability.

Next, the method for producing a stretch woven or knitted fabric made of cellulosic fibers according to the first and second aspects of the present invention is applied to the woven and knitted fabric which has been treated with liquid ammonia in a non-tensioned state by high temperature water treatment and steam treatment. Treatment or alkali treatment is performed.

The above high temperature water treatment or steam treatment is
A woven or knitted product made of a cellulosic fiber is usually 90 to 150 ° C.
It is immersed in hot water, or under a steam atmosphere with or without tension. The tension state here is preferably a slight tension state that is strong enough to keep the contracted shape of the woven or knitted fabric as much as possible.

Specifically, in order to perform the treatment in a tensioned state, in the case of high temperature water treatment, an apparatus such as a high pressure beam dyeing machine or a high pressure Jigger dyeing machine can be used. In the case of steam treatment, a device such as a continuous high temperature and high pressure steamer can be used.

On the other hand, in the case of high-temperature water treatment, a high-pressure jet dyeing machine, a high-pressure drum dyeing machine, a high-pressure paddle dyeing machine, or the like can be used to carry out the treatment without tension. In addition, in the case of steam treatment, it can be carried out using an apparatus such as a batch type steamer.

In this case, the time for the high temperature water treatment or the steam treatment varies depending on the temperature of the high temperature water or the steam and cannot be specified unconditionally, but is usually 5 minutes to 5 hours.

Further, more specific conditions for high temperature water treatment or steam treatment are preferably as follows.

<In the case of high temperature water treatment> (a) 90 ° C or higher but lower than 98 ° C: 2 hours or longer, preferably 2 to 5 hours (b) 98 ° C or higher but lower than 105 ° C: 1.5 hours or longer, preferably 2 to 5 hours (c) 105 ° C or more and less than 115 ° C: 1 hour or more, preferably 1.5 to 5 hours (d) 115 ° C or more and less than 125 ° C: 40 minutes or more, preferably 1 to 5 hours (e) 125 ° C or more Less than 135 ° C: 30 minutes or more, preferably 1 to 5 hours (f) 135 ° C or more and less than 150 ° C: 20 minutes or more, preferably 1 to 5 hours

<In the case of steam treatment> (a) 90 ° C or higher but lower than 98 ° C: 1.5 hours or longer, preferably 1.5 to 5 hours (b) 98 ° C or higher but lower than 105 ° C: 1 hour or longer, preferably 1 ~ 5 hours (c) 105 ° C or more and less than 115 ° C: 40 minutes or more, preferably 40 minutes to 4 hours (d) 115 ° C or more and less than 125 ° C: 25 minutes or more, preferably 25 minutes to 2.5 hours (e) 125 ° C or higher and lower than 135 ° C: 15 minutes or longer, preferably 15 minutes to 1.5 hours (f) 135 ° C or higher but lower than 150 ° C: 5 minutes or longer, preferably 5 minutes to 1 hour

The alkali treatment is carried out on a woven or knitted fabric made of cellulosic fibers in a tensioned or non-tensioned state, and as the alkali agent, a strong alkali agent such as lithium hydroxide, caustic soda and caustic potash, or sodium carbonate, sodium bicarbonate or the like. Although a weak alkaline agent can be used, caustic soda is preferable in terms of workability and cost. Note that other alkaline chemicals may be used if necessary.

In the present invention, the alkaline agent is used as an aqueous solution or the like. As the alkaline aqueous solution, the alkali concentration is 0.1 to 0.1.
It can be performed by using 40% by weight and immersing at a temperature of −10 ° C. to 150 ° C. for 20 seconds to 24 hours.

Further, the specific conditions for the alkali treatment differ depending on whether a strong alkali agent such as caustic soda is used or a weak alkali agent such as sodium carbonate, and are preferably as follows.

<Using a strong alkali agent> (a) When the alkali concentration is 0.1 or more and less than 10% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 5% by weight, the treatment temperature is 90 ° C to 90 ° C.
150 ° C, preferably 98 ° C to 150 ° C, more preferably 110 ° C to 140 ° C. The treatment time varies depending on the concentration of the alkaline agent used, the treatment temperature and the like and cannot be specified unconditionally, but is usually 1 minute to 5 hours, preferably 10 minutes to 5 hours, more preferably 20 minutes to 3 hours. is there. (B) The alkali concentration is 10 to 40% by weight, preferably 1
In the case of 5 to 30% by weight, the treatment temperature is -10 ° C to 90 ° C.
C., preferably 10 to 40.degree. The treatment time varies depending on the concentration of the alkaline agent used, the treatment temperature and the like and cannot be specified unconditionally, but is usually 20 seconds to 24 hours, preferably 1 minute to 12 hours, more preferably 3 minutes to.
5 hours.

<When using a weak alkaline agent> The alkali concentration is 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 10% by weight.
In the case of, the treatment temperature is 90 ° C to 150 ° C, preferably 9 ° C.
The temperature is 8 ° C to 150 ° C, more preferably 110 ° C to 140 ° C. The treatment time varies depending on the concentration of the alkaline agent used, the treatment temperature and the like and cannot be specified unconditionally, but is usually 10 minutes to 5 hours, preferably 20 minutes to 3 hours.

In any of the above alkali treatments, if the alkali concentration is too low, the effect of the alkali treatment may not be sufficiently obtained, while if the alkali concentration is too high, further improvement of the effect may occur. There is a case where it is not seen, and rather it takes time and cost to remove the alkali in the neutralization treatment in the subsequent step.

The above-mentioned alkali treatment can be carried out in a tensed or untensed state of a woven or knitted material made of cellulosic fibers. In addition, the tension state here is preferably a slight tension state that is strong enough to keep the shape of the contracted woven or knitted material as much as possible.

When the alkali treatment is carried out under tension, as a concrete apparatus, when the treatment temperature is 90 ° C. or higher, an apparatus such as a high pressure beam dyeing machine or a high pressure Jigger dyeing machine can be used. If the treatment temperature is lower than 90 ° C,
It can be carried out using an apparatus such as a mercerizing machine, an ordinary beam dyeing machine and a Jigger dyeing machine, but a mercerizing machine is usually preferable.

On the other hand, when the alkali treatment is carried out in a tension-free state and the treatment temperature is 90 ° C. or higher, a high-pressure jet dyeing machine,
Devices such as a high-pressure drum dyeing machine and a high-pressure paddle dyeing machine can be used. If the treatment temperature is lower than 90 ° C,
It can be carried out by using an ordinary jet dyeing machine, drum dyeing machine, paddle dyeing machine or the like.

The alkali-treated woven or knitted fabric is neutralized and washed with water. The neutralization treatment can be performed using an inorganic acid such as sulfuric acid or hydrochloric acid or an organic acid such as acetic acid or formic acid.

By performing high-temperature water treatment, steam treatment or alkali treatment after the liquid ammonia treatment in this way, the shape of the woven or knitted fabric in a state of being contracted by the liquid ammonia treatment is more firmly fixed, and a high elongation rate and elongation are obtained. Excellent stretch performance with high recovery afterwards is given.

Next, in the method for producing a stretch woven or knitted fabric composed of cellulosic fibers according to the third to fifth inventions of the present invention, a woven or knitted fabric obtained by weaving or knitting a strongly twisted yarn composed of a cellulosic fiber is subjected to a relaxation treatment, Liquid ammonia treatment in a non-tensioned state or a slight tension state, or hot water treatment, steam treatment or alkali treatment thereafter.

Here, as the cellulosic fiber, the same fibers as those of the first and second inventions can be used.
This cellulosic fiber is twisted by a usual spinning method to obtain a strongly twisted yarn. As the spinning method, ring spinning, open-end spinning and the like can be used. Here, the yarn count of the strongly twisted yarn is appropriately set depending on the application, but in the case of cotton yarn, it is generally 5 to 1
It is No. 40, and the twist coefficient is preferably 4 to 9, more preferably 6 to 8. If the twist coefficient is less than 4, the torque may not be sufficiently expressed when the relaxation treatment is performed. On the other hand, if the twist coefficient exceeds 9, the problem that the yarn twisting torque is too strong may occur. If necessary, the cellulosic fiber may be subjected to pretreatment such as calcination, refining, bleaching, mercerizing, and the yarn may be dyed or printed.

The above-mentioned strongly twisted yarn made of cellulosic fibers is woven or knitted by a usual method to obtain a woven or knitted article made of cellulosic fibers.

In the method for producing a stretch woven or knitted material made of cellulosic fibers according to the third aspect of the present invention, first, the woven or knitted material made of cellulosic fibers is subjected to a relaxation treatment. This relaxation process is a process in which the woven or knitted fabric using the strong twist yarn is loosened in high temperature water in a tension-free state so that the torque of the strong twist yarn is expressed and the woven or knit fabric is sufficiently shrunk (formed into a spiral shape). The tension-free state in the relaxing process is preferably tension-free in both the weft direction and the warp direction regardless of the directionality. In this case, the conditions for the relaxation treatment are not particularly limited, but the temperature is usually 80 to 100 ° C., and the treatment time is usually about 1 to 30 minutes.

By performing the above-mentioned relaxation treatment, the strongly twisted yarn is loosened and liquid ammonia is applied to the woven or knitted fabric in a state where the strongly twisted yarn has a spiral shape (the woven or knitted fabric is sufficiently shrunk) in a non-tensed state or in a slightly tense state. Perform processing. In addition,
The slightly tensioned state here means a tensioned state having a strength sufficient to maintain the shape of the contracted woven or knitted material.

In this case, it is preferable that the tension-free state or slight tension in the liquid ammonia treatment is in the weft direction with respect to the woven or knitted fabric. Thus, by treating the woven and knitted fabric with ammonia in the weft direction without tension or with slight tension, a large amount of treatment can be continuously performed and productivity can be improved. The conditions of the liquid ammonia treatment are the same as those in the above first and second inventions.

After the above relaxation treatment, liquid ammonia treatment is carried out in a non-tensed state or a slight tension state.
Excellent stretchability is imparted to a woven or knitted fabric made of cellulosic fibers.

Next, the method for producing a stretch woven or knitted fabric made of cellulosic fibers according to the fourth and sixth aspects of the present invention is a high temperature water treatment of the woven or knitted article treated with liquid ammonia by the method of the third aspect. , Steam treatment, or alkali treatment. The conditions for these high-temperature water treatment, steam treatment, or alkali treatment are the above-mentioned first and second
It is similar to the case of the invention.

As described above, the woven or knitted article made of the cellulosic fibers obtained by the production methods of the first to fifth aspects of the present invention has a high elongation rate and a high recovery rate after elongation and has excellent stretchability. However, the method for producing a stretch woven or knitted fabric made of a cellulosic fiber according to the sixth invention of the present invention, after performing any one production method selected from these first to fifth inventions, Furthermore, by subjecting to resin processing, it has a high elongation rate and a higher recovery rate after elongation, and has excellent stretchability.

In this case, as the resin used for resin processing, any resin can be used without limitation as long as it is capable of cross-linking cellulosic fibers such as a fibrin-reactive N-methylol compound and imparting a shape-retaining property. . For example, formaldehyde, glyoxal, aldehydes such as glutaraldehyde, epoxy compounds such as diglycidyl ether, polycarboxylic acids such as tetrabutanecarboxylic acid, fibers such as dimethylol urea, trimethylol melamine, dimethylol ethylene urea, and dimethylol dihydroxy ethylene urea. Examples include elementary reaction type N-methylol compounds. Among these, glyoxal resins such as dimethylol ethylene urea and dimethylol dihydroxy ethylene urea are preferable. It should be noted that as the resin processing conditions and methods, the methods and conditions that are usually used in resin processing can be adopted.

The woven or knitted fabric made of the cellulosic fibers thus obtained may be subjected to a final finishing process such as a silicone type for the purpose of tentering, adjusting the feeling and the like, if necessary.

The woven or knitted product made of the cellulosic fiber obtained by the production method of the present invention has the unique texture and feel of the cellulosic fiber, and has excellent stretchability, particularly a high elongation rate and a high elongation after elongation. It has a recovery rate and is highly evaluated by the market.

[0058]

EXAMPLES The present invention will be specifically described below by showing Examples and Comparative Examples, but the present invention is not limited to the following Examples.

Reference Example 1 A warp yarn and a weft yarn each made of 100% cotton, 60 count single yarn (twisting factor 3.
4), the weaving density is 82 warps / inch x 80 wefts / inch, and the plain weave fabric is woven and subjected to normal refining and bleaching, and then wefted in liquid ammonia at -34 ° C. It was immersed for 15 seconds in a tension-free state, and contracted in the weft direction. Then, a glyoxal resin processing having the following formulation was performed, and a silicone finishing process was performed. The shrinkage rate and weft stretch performance of the obtained woven fabric were measured by the following methods. The results are shown in Table 1.

Glyoxal resin composition LNB20 * 1 10 g / 100 ml zinc borofluoride aqueous solution * 2 1 g / 100 ml FW * 3 2 g / 100 ml PE-140 * 4 1 g / 100 ml PEG200 * 5 3 g / 100 ml * 1: Riken resin LNB20 (glyoxal Resin, solid content 40%, manufactured by Miki Riken) * 2: Aqueous zinc borofluoride solution (concentration 45%, manufactured by Morita Chemical) * 3: Sumitex buffer FW (formalin catcher, manufactured by Sumitomo Chemical) * 4: Mecatex PE-140 (polyethylene softener, manufactured by Meisei Chemical Co., Ltd.) * 5: PEG200 (polyethylene glycol, manufactured by Sanyo Kasei Co., Ltd.) The resin processing agent is 100 ml prepared by adding water to the above chemicals.

Shrinkage rate The shrinkage rate was calculated by the following formula.

[Equation 1] Weft stretch performance Measured according to JIS L 1095 method.

[Comparative Example 1] The same fabric as in Example 1 was refined,
After bleaching, it was contracted in the weft direction by a slack mercerizing method in which the weft direction was tensionless. Then, a glyoxal-based resin processing (the same as in Example 1) was performed, and a silicone-based finishing processing was performed. The shrinkage rate and weft stretch performance of the obtained woven fabric were measured in the same manner as in Example 1. The results are shown in Table 1.

[0063]

[Table 1]

[Example 2] Woven yarn dyed cotton yarn 60 count twin yarn (twisting factor 3.5), density warp 86 yarns / inch, width 138 cm, standard dough woven 100% cotton woven fabric After bleaching, it was immersed in liquid ammonia at -34 ° C for 15 seconds in the latitudinal direction without tension, and treated with caustic soda (20% by weight) at 20 ° C for 40 seconds,
A neutralization process was performed. Next, glyoxal-based resin processing (the same as in Example 1) was performed, and silicone-based finishing processing was performed. The shrinkage rate and weft stretch performance of the obtained woven fabric were measured in the same manner as in Example 1. The results are shown in Table 2.

[Comparative Example 2] Similar to Example 2, the warp and weft-dyed cotton yarn 60 count twin yarn (twisting factor 3.5), density warp 86 yarns /
Cotton with a Dobby structure woven in the standard of inch and width 138 cm
The 00% woven fabric was treated in the same manner as in Example 2 except that the liquid ammonia treatment was not performed and the mercerizing treatment was performed in the weft direction by the slack mercerizing method in a tensionless state. The shrinkage rate and weft stretch performance of the obtained woven fabric were measured in the same manner as in Example 1. The results are shown in Table 2.

[Comparative Example 3] Similar to Example 2, the warp and weft-dyed cotton yarn 60 count twin yarn (twist coefficient 3.5), density warp 86 yarns /
Cotton with a Dobby structure woven in the standard of inch and width 138 cm
The 00% fabric was treated as in Example 2 except that it was treated with liquid ammonia. The shrinkage rate and weft stretch performance of the obtained woven fabric were measured in the same manner as in Example 1. The results are shown in Table 2.

[0067]

[Table 2]

From the results in Table 2, Comparative Example 2 is inferior to Example 2 in contraction rate and recovery rate after elongation, and Comparative Example 3 is significantly inferior in contraction rate and elongation rate, and after expansion. It was confirmed that there was no recovery and that stretchability was not imparted. On the other hand, in Example 2, all of the shrinkage rate, the extension rate, and the recovery rate were high, and the recovery rate after the extension was particularly high at 82%, and even if the extension rate was large as in Comparative Example 2, the recovery rate was high. The evaluation as a stretch woven fabric was low when it was slightly low (75%), and from this viewpoint, it was confirmed that Example 2 was an excellent stretch woven fabric.

[Reference Example 3] For warp and weft, 100% cotton strong twist 105 count twin yarn (twist coefficient 7.0) was used, and the weaving density was warp 64 yarns / inch x weft 70 yarns /
A woven fabric having a sack and a plain weave structure was subjected to ordinary refining and bleaching, and then immersed in liquid ammonia at -34 ° C in the weft direction without tension for 15 seconds to shrink in the weft direction. After that, glyoxal resin processing (same as Reference Example 1)
Then, a silicone-based finishing process was performed. The shrinkage rate and weft stretch performance of the obtained woven fabric were measured by the same methods as in Reference Example 1. The results are shown in Table 3.

[Comparative Example 4] The same fabric as in Example 3 was refined,
After bleaching, it was contracted in the weft direction by a slack mercerizing method in a tension-free state in the weft direction. Then, a glyoxal-based resin processing (the same as in Example 1) was performed, and a silicone-based finishing processing was performed. The shrinkage rate and weft stretch performance of the obtained woven fabric were measured in the same manner as in Example 1. The results are shown in Table 3.

[0071]

[Table 3]

[Embodiment 4] Warp and weft cotton spun strong twist intertwist 50 count single yarn (twist coefficient 7.5), density warp 69 yarns / inch, weft 70 yarns /
100 inches cotton, woven with a standard width of 160 cm
% Fabric was subjected to a relaxing treatment with high temperature water at 90 ° C. for 5 minutes, and then subjected to ordinary smelting and bleaching. After that, -34 ° C
Was immersed in the liquid ammonia of No. 11 in the weft direction in a tension-free state for 15 seconds, and was mercerized with caustic soda (20% by weight) at 20 ° C. for 40 seconds to perform neutralization. Next, glyoxal-based resin processing (the same as in Example 1) was performed, and silicone-based finishing processing was performed. Shrinkage of the resulting fabric,
The weft stretch performance was measured by the same method as in Example 1. The results are shown in Table 4.

[Comparative Example 5] The same warp weft spun strong twist intertwisted 50-yarn single yarn (twist coefficient 7.5) similar to that of Example 4, density warp 69 yarns / inch, weft 70 yarns / inch, width 160 cm The same treatment as in Example 4 was performed on the 100% cotton plain weave fabric woven according to the standard, except that the relaxing treatment and the liquid ammonia treatment were not performed and the mercerizing treatment was performed by the slack mercerizing method in the tension direction in the weft direction. gave. The shrinkage rate and weft stretch performance of the obtained woven fabric were measured in the same manner as in Example 1. The results are shown in Table 4.

[0074]

[Table 4] From the results of Table 4, the shrinkage rate of Example 4 is higher than that of Comparative Example 5,
It was confirmed that both the elongation rate and the recovery rate were high, and that it had excellent stretchability.

[0075]

EFFECTS OF THE INVENTION According to the present invention, it is possible to impart excellent stretchability to a woven or knitted product made of a cellulosic fiber while maintaining the unique texture and feel of the cellulosic fiber.

─────────────────────────────────────────────────── ─── Continuation of front page (51) Int.Cl. ⁷ Identification symbol FI // D03D 15/00 D03D 15/00 A D06M 101: 06 D06M 101: 06 (72) Inventor Masayoshi Oba Miaicho, Okazaki, Aichi Prefecture Character insertion 45 Nisshinbo Co., Ltd. in Miai factory (56) Reference JP 59-125962 (JP, A) JP 50-157700 (JP, A) JP 10-88477 (JP, A) ( 58) Fields investigated (Int.Cl. ⁷ , DB name) D06M 11/00-11/84 D03D 15/04 101 D03D 15/00 D04B 1/14 D04B 21/00

Claims (8)

(57) [Claims] 1. A liquid ammonia treatment by subjecting a woven or knitted fabric made of cellulosic fibers that shrinks by 20% or more by a liquid ammonia treatment in a non-tensed state to a liquid ammonia treatment in a non-tensed state, and then subjecting it to high-temperature water treatment or steam treatment. A method for producing a stretch woven or knitted product made of a cellulosic fiber, which comprises shrinking the woven or knitted product by 20% or more. 2. A woven or knitted fabric before being treated with liquid ammonia by subjecting a woven or knitted fabric composed of cellulosic fibers that shrinks by 20% or more by a liquid ammonia treatment in a untensioned state to a liquid ammonia treatment in a untensioned state and then an alkali treatment. A method for producing a stretch woven or knitted fabric made of a cellulosic fiber, which comprises shrinking by 20% or more. 3. The method for producing a stretch woven or knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the tension-free state in the liquid ammonia treatment is in the weft direction with respect to the woven or knitted fabric. 4. A stretch made of a cellulosic fiber characterized by subjecting a woven or knitted fabric obtained by weaving or knitting a strongly twisted yarn made of a cellulosic fiber to a relaxed treatment and then subjecting it to liquid ammonia treatment in a tensionless state or a slight tensioned state. Method for manufacturing woven or knitted fabric. 5. A relaxed treatment of a woven or knitted fabric obtained by weaving or knitting strongly twisted yarns composed of cellulosic fibers, liquid ammonia treatment in a tension-free state or a slight tension state, and then high-temperature water treatment or steam treatment. A method for producing a stretch woven or knitted fabric comprising a characteristic cellulosic fiber. 6. Cellulose characterized by subjecting a woven or knitted fabric obtained by weaving or knitting a strongly twisted yarn made of a cellulosic fiber to a relaxed treatment, followed by a liquid ammonia treatment in a non-tensed state or a slight tension state, and then an alkali treatment. A method for producing a stretch woven or knitted fabric made of a base fiber. 7. The method for producing a stretch woven or knitted fabric according to claim 4, wherein the tension-free state or a slight tension in the liquid ammonia treatment is in the weft direction with respect to the woven or knitted fabric. 8. A method for producing a stretch woven or knitted fabric made of a cellulosic fiber, which comprises performing the method according to any one of claims 1 to 7 and then performing resin processing.