JP6765342B2 - Water-in-oil solid emulsified cosmetics - Google Patents

Description

The present invention relates to a solid water-in-oil solid emulsified cosmetic.

Water-in-oil solid emulsified cosmetics are generally understood by those skilled in the art as techniques related to cosmetics such as foundations, lips, and sunscreens. In recent years, there have been proposals to use water-in-oil solid emulsified cosmetics in addition to the above products. However, in order to make a water-in-oil solid emulsified cosmetic product into a product, there are problems that must be solved such as moldability, usability, and stability.
Patent Document 1 has excellent usability such as non-greasy, non-shiny, matte feel, and non-greasy while maintaining effects such as moisturizing effect, moisturizing effect, and skin effect the next morning. , A new solid oily cosmetic for skin care has been proposed. The present invention relates to an oil containing one or more non-volatile oils selected from hydrocarbon oils, ester oils, and vegetable oils as main components, and one or two selected from resin powders and silicas. It is a solid oil-in-oil type skin care cosmetic containing 15 to 55% by mass of the above powder, and further containing a solid wax and an oil gelling agent.

Patent Document 2 includes silicone oil, solid wax, water, and one or more types of polyoxyalkylene-modified organopolysiloxane, and has a water content of 5% by weight or more based on the total amount of cosmetics. Water-in-oil emulsified cosmetics are disclosed. This cosmetic has less volatilization of water, does not have "cracks" or "cracks", has a new feeling of use called "cool feeling" when applied, and has excellent usability such as "stretching" and "freshness". It has. It is often used mainly as a foundation, but it is a composition that can also be used as a cosmetic for skin care.

Patent Document 3 uses candelilla wax for producing solid emulsified cosmetics, has sufficient hardness as a wax gel, has excellent moldability (shape retention), and has a smooth elongation that melts. A composition containing a polyglycerin fatty acid ester in which the degree of polymerization of glycerin is 7 to 12, the fatty acid is a branched fatty acid having 6 to 12 carbon atoms, and the degree of ester substitution is 65% or more in order to give a feeling of spread and fit. The thing is disclosed. Further, Patent Document 4 describes the feeling of use of "nullness and poor feel" that occurs in the solid emulsified cosmetics of Patent Document 2, such as volatile silicone, long-chain alkyl-containing polyoxyalkylene-modified organosiloxane, solid oil, and solid oil. It is stated that the solution was solved by blending water and a water-soluble component.

Patent Document 5 describes that in a solid oil-in-water type cosmetic prepared by filling a container such as a compact container, a gold plate, a stick container, or a medium plate, it has excellent shape retention and stability over time, and does not have a sticky feeling. In order to obtain a water-based emulsified cosmetic in solid oil that is watery and has good smooth spread, solid oil such as dialkyl ester carbonate and solid wax, polyoxyalkylene-modified organosiloxane-based surfactant, and water are used. The compounded invention is described. However, the patent has a concern of irritation to the skin and a problem of usability.
Even now, various trials and errors are being carried out on water-in-oil solid emulsified cosmetics.

Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 2005-247808 Japanese Patent No. 2691729 JP-A-2015-193607 Japanese Patent No. 3369985 Japanese Patent No. 4047512

The present inventor is conducting research to obtain a water-in-oil solid emulsified cosmetic using raw materials that can be used as skin care cosmetics and are well-known for their safety. In the course of this research, we noted that the use of raw materials such as surfactants and solid fats and oils, which are well-known for their safety, in water-in-oil solid emulsified cosmetics produces a unique oiliness. As a result of conducting research, we have found a composition that can maintain solidity even at high temperatures, is not oily, and can reduce the feeling of sliminess during use, and have made the present invention.
That is, the present invention is a water-in-oil solid emulsified cosmetic containing a surfactant and solid fats and oils, which are well-known for their safety, and suppresses the oily feel peculiar to the water-in-oil solid emulsified cosmetic. An object of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic that maintains solidification even at a high temperature and suppresses condensation at a cold temperature.

The main configurations of the present invention are as follows.
(1) A water-in-oil solid emulsified cosmetic containing the following (A) to (E).
(A) Phenyl-modified silicone (B) Polyether-modified silicone (C) Polyglycerin fatty acid ester with HLB of less than 5 (D) Oil agent solid at room temperature (E) 30% by mass of aqueous phase containing water-soluble thickener The water-in-oil solid emulsified cosmetic according to (1), wherein the compounding ratio (A) / (D) of (2) (A) phenyl-modified silicone and (D) an oil agent solid at room temperature is 0.8 or more. Fee.
(3) The water-in-oil solid emulsified cosmetic according to (1) or (2), which contains (A) diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimeticone as a phenyl-modified silicone.
(4) (B) The polyether-modified silicone is one or more selected from cetyldimethicone copolypoly, PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone, lauryl PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone, and PEG-9 dimethicone (1). The water-in-oil solid emulsified cosmetic according to any one of (3).
(5) (C) A polyglycerin fatty acid ester having an HLB of less than 5 is one or more selected from polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 isostearate, and polyglyceryl-10 pentaoleate (1) to (4). The water-in-oil solid emulsified cosmetic according to any one of.
(6) (D) Water-in-oil solid emulsification according to any one of (1) to (5), which contains one or more selected from cetyl palmitate, candelilla wax, and beeswax as an oil agent solid at room temperature. Cosmetics.
(7) The water-in-oil solid emulsified cosmetic according to any one of (1) to (6), wherein the water-soluble thickener is one or more selected from xanthan gum, sclerothium gum, and carbomer.

The water-in-oil solid emulsified cosmetic of the present invention suppresses the oily feel peculiar to the water-in-oil solid emulsified cosmetic, achieves solidification at high temperature, and condenses at cold temperature (between the container and the container). It is a cosmetic that does not appear as a gap). The water-in-oil solid emulsified cosmetic of the present invention is suitable for skin care cosmetics because it has a smooth and comfortable feeling of use.

The present invention relates to (A) phenyl-modified silicone, (B) polyether-modified silicone, (C) polyglycerin fatty acid ester having an HLB of less than 5, (D) an oil that is solid at room temperature, and (E) water-soluble thickening. It is an invention concerning a water-in-oil solid emulsified cosmetic containing 30% by mass or more of an aqueous phase containing an agent.
The constituent components (blending components) of the present invention will be described.
Component (A): Phenyl-modified silicone The phenyl-modified silicone used in the present invention may be a silicone having a dimethylsiloxane skeleton in which at least a part of the methyl group is replaced with a phenyl group, for example, diphenyldimethicone or phenylpropyldimethyl. Examples thereof include siloxysilicic acid, bisphenylpropyl dimethicone, phenyltrimethicone, trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane, diphenylsiloxyphenyltrimethicone, and trimethylsiloxyphenyldimethicone. Preferably, it is diphenylsiloxyphenyltrimethicone. The phenyl-modified silicone plays a role of uniformly mixing the solid oil and other oils together with the component (B) described below: the polyether-modified silicone, and by blending the phenyl-modified silicone, the surface of the prepared cosmetic is made uniform. Further, since the oil phase is solidified in a uniform state, it is possible to suppress the occurrence of the problem of "not melting smoothly" caused by the poor melting feeling of the solid oil. The blending amount of the phenyl-modified silicone is 5 to 20% by mass, preferably 7 to 15% by mass.

Component (B): Polyether-modified silicone The polyether-modified silicone used in the present invention has a main chain silicone chain and a polyether chain as a side chain. The side chain may contain an alkyl chain or a silicone chain in addition to the polyether chain. Polyether-modified silicones are used in cosmetics as polymer surfactants. In the present invention, it is preferable to use cetyldimethicone copolypoly, PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone, lauryl PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone, PEG-9 dimethicone, etc. as cosmetic labeling names. Particularly, cetyldimethicone copolypoly is preferable.
The blending amount of the polyether-modified silicone is 1 to 5% by mass, preferably 2 to 3% by mass.
Component (A): Phenyl-modified silicone and Component (B): Polyether-modified silicone are essential components for maintaining uniform compatibility between solid oil and other oils.

Component (C): Polyglycerin fatty acid ester having an HLB of less than 5 The polyglycerin fatty acid ester used in the present invention must have an HLB of less than 5. (C) Polyglycerin fatty acid esters having an HLB of less than 5 include polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate (HLB value: 1.3), polyglyceryl-2 isostearate (HLB value: 4.6), and polyglyceryl pentaoleate-10. (HLB value: 3.5) can be exemplified. The blending amount of the polyglycerin fatty acid ester having an HLB of less than 5 is 0.5 to 5% by mass, preferably 0.7 to 2% by mass. A polyglycerin fatty acid ester having an HLB of less than 5 contributes to solidification at a high temperature (40 ° C.) in the configuration of the present invention, and its formulation is essential.

Ingredient (D): As the oil agent solid at room temperature, any wax or so-called solid oil used in cosmetics can be used, but candelilla wax, beeswax, and cetyl palmitate are preferable, and these alone or a mixture thereof. It may be. Among them, cetyl palmitate has a low melting point as a solid oil and contributes to the smooth melting effect of the present invention, and therefore, it is preferable to blend it in the present invention. The cetyl palmitate is preferably blended in an amount of 40% by mass or more based on the total amount of the solid oil. Solid oils are essential to keep the cosmetics solid. (D) The blending amount of the oil agent solid at room temperature is 3 to 12% by mass, preferably 5 to 10% by mass.
The amount of the component (A): phenyl-modified silicone is preferably determined by the amount of the component (D): an oil that is solid at room temperature. The blending ratio (A) / (D) of the component (A): phenyl-modified silicone and the component (D): oil that is solid at room temperature is 0.8 or more, preferably 0.8 to 2.5. It is preferable to mix.

Ingredient (E): Aqueous phase containing a water-soluble thickener The combination of a water-soluble thickener and water is essential for the water-in-oil solid emulsified cosmetic of the present invention. As an aqueous phase containing a water-soluble thickener, 30% by mass or more is blended per cosmetic. The blending amount of the aqueous phase is preferably 30 to 70% by mass, more preferably 40 to 70% by mass, and further preferably 40 to 60% by mass. Further, as the water-soluble thickener to be blended, a synthetic product such as a thickening polysaccharide or a carboxyvinyl polymer (carbomer) that can be dissolved in the aqueous phase can be used. Examples of the water-soluble thickener suitable for the present invention include xanthan gum, sclerothium gum, and carboxyvinyl polymer (carbomer). The water-soluble thickener is preferably blended in an amount of 0.01 to 0.5% by mass from the viewpoint of the effect of preventing the formation of gaps with the container and the feeling of use (no sliminess). When a polyhydric alcohol is blended, it is included in the total amount of the aqueous phase. In addition, water-soluble components such as carbomer neutralizers, optionally compounded pH adjusters, and hyaluronic acid are also included in the total amount of the aqueous phase.

(Optional ingredient)
The water-in-oil solid emulsified cosmetic of the present invention may optionally contain other components usually used in cosmetics, depending on the intended use. Examples of such optional components include water-soluble organic solvents such as ethanol, emulsifiers, chelating agents, whitening agents, emollients, moisturizers, antioxidants, coloring agents, preservatives, fragrances, various oily components, and various types. Aqueous components of the above can be mentioned. Further, an oil agent other than the component (D) can be further blended as long as the effect of the present invention is not impaired.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described with reference to Examples and Comparative Examples of the cosmetic of the present invention.
1. 1. Examples Water-in-oil solid emulsified cosmetics (Examples 1 to 8) having the compositions shown in Table 1 below were prepared by a conventional method. The obtained emulsified cosmetic was filled in a glass container having a diameter of 5 cm and a synthetic resin container before solidification, and solidified at room temperature.

2. Comparative Example Similar to Examples, water-in-oil solid emulsified cosmetics (Comparative Examples 1 to 11) having the compositions shown in Table 2 below were prepared by a conventional method.

Comparative Example 1 is a composition in which the content of the aqueous phase containing the component (E): water-soluble thickener is less than 30% by mass. Comparative Example 2 is a composition that does not contain the component (A): phenyl-modified silicone. Comparative Example 3 is a composition that does not contain the component (B): polyether-modified silicone. Comparative Examples 4 to 10 are compositions (C) that do not contain a polyglycerin fatty acid ester having an HLB of less than 5. Comparative Example 11 has a composition that does not contain a water-soluble thickener in the aqueous phase component.

3. 3. Evaluation of cosmetics Sensory evaluation of solidified state, hardness and usability was performed on the cosmetics of Examples and Comparative Examples. The evaluation criteria are as follows. The normal temperature is 25 ° C ± 2 ° C.
(1) Solidification (normal temperature, 40 ° C)
Each of the cosmetics filled in the glass container and the jar type resin container was stored in a constant temperature bath (normal temperature, 40 ° C.), and the appearance of the cosmetics after 24 hours was visually observed and solidification was evaluated according to the following criteria. ..
◯: No fluidity, solidification is formed ×: Fluidity (liquid or creamy) or incomplete solidification No difference was observed between the glass container and the resin container. Therefore, there is only one description for this item in the table.

(2) Hardness The hardness of the cosmetics packed in a glass container (diameter 5 cm) was measured using a rheometer RTC (Rheotech) the day after filling. The condition was that the maximum stress value when the adapter reached a depth of 10 mm at a speed of 6 cm / min from the surface of the cosmetic was measured as hardness. The adapter used was a cylinder with a diameter of 3.0 mm.

(3) Usability The quality of usability was sensory-evaluated according to the following criteria, with the main index being whether or not it melts smoothly on the skin.
◯: Melts smoothly and feels good to use △: Melts smoothly but feels squeaky and oily, and feels a little bad ×: Does not melt smoothly and feels bad to use

(4) Condensation evaluation A jar-type resin container was filled with cosmetics, stored in a refrigerator (5 ° C.), and visually observed 24 hours and 1 month later, and evaluated according to the following criteria.
◯: No gap between the container and the container △: There is a very small gap between the container and the container (a level that does not pose a problem for commercialization)
X: There is a gap between the container and

(5) Condition of cosmetic surface when solidified (appearance evaluation)
A jar-type resin container was filled with cosmetics, and the surface condition of the solidified cosmetics was visually observed the next day.
◯: The surface of the cosmetic is uniform Δ: The surface of the cosmetic is slightly uneven ×: The surface of the cosmetic is uneven

4. Evaluation Results Tables 1 and 2 show the evaluation results for each evaluation item.
The cosmetics of Examples (1 to 8) suppress the oily feel during use, melt smoothly and have a good feeling of use, solidify at room temperature and high temperature, and suppress condensation at cold temperature (in a container). Good results were shown in all the evaluation items of appearance (the surface of the cosmetic was uniform) and no gaps were generated after filling.
On the other hand, in the cosmetics of Comparative Examples (1 to 11), one of the evaluation items or a plurality of evaluation items was evaluated as defective.
The content of the aqueous phase has an important effect on the solidification of the cosmetic, but as shown in Comparative Example 1, when the content of the aqueous phase (E) containing the water-soluble thickener is 16.5% by mass, Even if the other components (A), (B), (C), and (D) reached the required amount, they did not solidify. From this, it was concluded that the content of the aqueous phase containing the water-soluble thickener should be 30% by mass or more per cosmetic.
Further, the blending ratio A / D of the component (A): phenyl-modified silicone and the component (D): an oil agent solid at room temperature is preferably 0.8 or more in the oil in comparison with Example 4 and Comparative Example 2. It was confirmed that it was a water-type solid emulsified cosmetic.
In general, the hardness of solid emulsified cosmetics is an element (parameter) that is directly linked to the stabilization of shape (solidification) and the feeling of use (smooth melting), and when the hardness is low, it is at high temperature (40 ° C). Solidification cannot be maintained, and conversely, if the hardness is too high, condensation cannot be suppressed at cold temperature (5 ° C) (that is, a gap with the container is generated), and the usability is poor (it does not melt smoothly). To do. For example, Comparative Example 4 having a composition corresponding to the prior art has a hardness of 40, Comparative Example 8 has a hardness of 31, and Comparative Example 9 has a hardness of 41, which are low. However, in these compositions, they solidify at room temperature but 40. Not solidified at ° C. Further, in Comparative Example 10, although the hardness is as high as 113, there is no problem in solidification, but it does not melt smoothly and there is a problem in usability, and a gap with the container is generated due to the condensation of the composition.
On the other hand, by adopting the configuration of the present invention, the shape (particularly solidification at 40 ° C) is stabilized, the feeling of use is good (melts smoothly), and the condensation is suppressed at cold temperature (5 ° C) (with the container). No gaps are created) has been achieved. Further focusing on the hardness of Examples, Example 5 had a hardness of 39, Example 6 had a hardness of 35, Example 7 had a hardness of 40, and Example 8 had a hardness of 39. This numerical value is the same as the hardness of Comparative Example 4, Comparative Example 8 and Comparative Example 9 described above. However, solidification is achieved by adopting the configuration of the present invention even under the high temperature condition of 40 ° C. In this way, it was evaluated that it was an excellent point that it was solidified with a hardness that would not normally solidify, and that it was possible to realize a feeling of use that melts smoothly and suppression of condensation (no gap between the container and the container).
From the evaluation results of Examples 1 to 8, especially when the water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic having the following composition is used, the stability of the shape (solidification at 40 ° C), the feeling of use (smoothly melt), and the cold temperature (5 ° C) ) Condensation suppression (no gaps with the container) and homogenization of the cosmetic surface were all achieved.
(A) Phenyl-modified silicone 5 to 20% by mass
(B) Polyether-modified silicone 1-5% by mass
(C) Polyglycerin fatty acid ester having an HLB of less than 5 0.5 to 5% by mass
(D) Oil agent solid at room temperature 3 to 12% by mass
(E) 30 to 70% by mass of aqueous phase containing a water-soluble thickener
Then, it was found that the hardness of the cosmetic can be set to 35 to 81 by adopting the configuration of the present invention, and a good water-in-oil solid emulsified cosmetic can be obtained in all the above items.
As a result of further studies, it was found that the selection of the HLB value of the polyglycerin fatty acid ester is important in the present invention. That is, the polyglycerin fatty acid esters used in Examples 1 to 8 (polyglyceryl triisostearate-2: HLB1.3, polyglyceryl isostearate-2: HLB4.6, polyglyceryl pentaoleate-10: HLB3.5) are in an emulsified state. However, as shown in Comparative Examples 5 to 8, the emulsified state was hindered when the HLB was 5 or more, and the water-in-oil solid emulsified cosmetics were found to have the effect of assisting the solidification and enhancing the stabilization thereof. The result was that the stability of the material was impaired (it did not solidify at 40 ° C). Similarly, when no polyglycerin fatty acid ester was blended, it did not solidify.
That is, in order to achieve all of the above evaluation items, it is essential to mix the polyglycerin fatty acid ester, and as shown in Examples 1 to 8, it is necessary to use the polyglycerin fatty acid ester having an HLB of less than 5. confirmed.
In the configuration of the present invention, by blending a polyglycerin fatty acid ester having an HLB of less than 5, solidification at high temperature (40 ° C.) is maintained and stabilized even when a relatively small amount of solid oil such as 3 to 12% by mass is blended. Therefore, it was found that it is not necessary to add a large amount of solid oil as 13% by mass as in Comparative Example 10. In addition, since the component B: polyether-modified silicone and the component A: phenyl-modified silicone are blended for the purpose of uniformly mixing the solid oil in the oil agent, the oiliness peculiar to the water-based solid emulsified cosmetic in oil It was confirmed that the feeling of remaining undissolved during application (which does not dissolve smoothly) is suppressed, and complicated adjustment of usability is not required.

5. Summary The water-in-oil solid emulsified cosmetics having the constitution of the present invention do not have the oily feel peculiar to the water-in-oil solid emulsified cosmetics, achieve solidification at high temperature, and condense at cold temperature (container). It is a cosmetic that does not appear as a gap between. The water-in-oil solid emulsified cosmetic of the present invention dissolves smoothly and provides a comfortable feeling of use, and is therefore particularly useful as a technique for skin care cosmetics.

Claims (7)

A water-in-oil solid emulsified cosmetic containing the following (A) to (E).
(A) Phenyl-modified silicone (B) Polyether-modified silicone (C) Polyglycerin fatty acid ester with HLB of less than 5 (D) Oil agent solid at room temperature (E) 30% by mass of aqueous phase containing water-soluble thickener that's all The water-in-oil solid emulsified cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the compounding ratio (A) / (D) of (A) phenyl-modified silicone and (D) an oil agent solid at room temperature is 0.8 or more. (A) The water-in-oil solid emulsified cosmetic according to claim 1 or 2, which contains diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimeticone as a phenyl-modified silicone. (B) Claims 1 to 3 wherein the polyether-modified silicone is one or more selected from cetyldimethicone copolypoly, PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone, lauryl PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone, and PEG-9 dimethicone. The water-in-oil solid emulsified cosmetic according to any one. (C) The method according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the polyglycerin fatty acid ester having an HLB of less than 5 is one or more selected from polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 isostearate, and polyglyceryl-10 pentaoleate. Water-in-oil solid emulsified cosmetics. (D) The water-in-oil solid emulsified cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 5, which contains one or more selected from cetyl palmitate, candelilla wax, and beeswax as an oil agent solid at room temperature. The water-in-oil solid emulsified cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the water-soluble thickener is one or more selected from xanthan gum, sclerothium gum, and carbomer.