JP5705619B2 - Water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic - Google Patents
Water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- JP5705619B2 JP5705619B2 JP2011078310A JP2011078310A JP5705619B2 JP 5705619 B2 JP5705619 B2 JP 5705619B2 JP 2011078310 A JP2011078310 A JP 2011078310A JP 2011078310 A JP2011078310 A JP 2011078310A JP 5705619 B2 JP5705619 B2 JP 5705619B2
- Authority
- JP
- Japan
- Prior art keywords
- water
- oil
- component
- astaxanthin
- silicone
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
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- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 title claims description 62
- 239000000843 powder Substances 0.000 claims description 66
- 229920001296 polysiloxane Polymers 0.000 claims description 63
- 235000013793 astaxanthin Nutrition 0.000 claims description 55
- JEBFVOLFMLUKLF-IFPLVEIFSA-N Astaxanthin Natural products CC(=C/C=C/C(=C/C=C/C1=C(C)C(=O)C(O)CC1(C)C)/C)C=CC=C(/C)C=CC=C(/C)C=CC2=C(C)C(=O)C(O)CC2(C)C JEBFVOLFMLUKLF-IFPLVEIFSA-N 0.000 claims description 54
- 239000001168 astaxanthin Substances 0.000 claims description 54
- MQZIGYBFDRPAKN-ZWAPEEGVSA-N astaxanthin Chemical compound C([C@H](O)C(=O)C=1C)C(C)(C)C=1/C=C/C(/C)=C/C=C/C(/C)=C/C=C/C=C(C)C=CC=C(C)C=CC1=C(C)C(=O)[C@@H](O)CC1(C)C MQZIGYBFDRPAKN-ZWAPEEGVSA-N 0.000 claims description 54
- 229940022405 astaxanthin Drugs 0.000 claims description 54
- 238000011282 treatment Methods 0.000 claims description 30
- 229920000435 poly(dimethylsiloxane) Polymers 0.000 claims description 16
- 239000004205 dimethyl polysiloxane Substances 0.000 claims description 15
- 235000013870 dimethyl polysiloxane Nutrition 0.000 claims description 15
- 238000002156 mixing Methods 0.000 claims description 14
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- 239000004094 surface-active agent Substances 0.000 claims description 13
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- 229920000578 graft copolymer Polymers 0.000 claims description 11
- KPUWHANPEXNPJT-UHFFFAOYSA-N disiloxane Chemical class [SiH3]O[SiH3] KPUWHANPEXNPJT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 9
- 229910052751 metal Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 5
- 239000002184 metal Substances 0.000 claims description 5
- 239000007788 liquid Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000000344 soap Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- -1 astaxanthin Chemical class 0.000 description 56
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- 239000004166 Lanolin Substances 0.000 description 4
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- 125000001495 ethyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])C([H])([H])* 0.000 description 3
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- 239000000391 magnesium silicate Substances 0.000 description 1
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- 235000019792 magnesium silicate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
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- 125000002496 methyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])* 0.000 description 1
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- 239000003607 modifier Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000000199 molecular distillation Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229940057059 monascus purpureus Drugs 0.000 description 1
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- 125000001421 myristyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
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- 125000001400 nonyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
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- CXQXSVUQTKDNFP-UHFFFAOYSA-N octamethyltrisiloxane Chemical compound C[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)C CXQXSVUQTKDNFP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 125000002347 octyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
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- 229940055577 oleyl alcohol Drugs 0.000 description 1
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- 239000012860 organic pigment Substances 0.000 description 1
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- 230000003647 oxidation Effects 0.000 description 1
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- TWNQGVIAIRXVLR-UHFFFAOYSA-N oxo(oxoalumanyloxy)alumane Chemical compound O=[Al]O[Al]=O TWNQGVIAIRXVLR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- RVTZCBVAJQQJTK-UHFFFAOYSA-N oxygen(2-);zirconium(4+) Chemical compound [O-2].[O-2].[Zr+4] RVTZCBVAJQQJTK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000012188 paraffin wax Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000006072 paste Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920001277 pectin Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 235000010987 pectin Nutrition 0.000 description 1
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- 125000001147 pentyl group Chemical group C(CCCC)* 0.000 description 1
- BPHQIXJDBIHMLT-UHFFFAOYSA-N perfluorodecane Chemical compound FC(F)(F)C(F)(F)C(F)(F)C(F)(F)C(F)(F)C(F)(F)C(F)(F)C(F)(F)C(F)(F)C(F)(F)F BPHQIXJDBIHMLT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229940066842 petrolatum Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 125000001997 phenyl group Chemical group [H]C1=C([H])C([H])=C(*)C([H])=C1[H] 0.000 description 1
- 239000010452 phosphate Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000000419 plant extract Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920003229 poly(methyl methacrylate) Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920003217 poly(methylsilsesquioxane) Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920001515 polyalkylene glycol Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920000768 polyamine Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920001083 polybutene Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920001223 polyethylene glycol Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000004926 polymethyl methacrylate Substances 0.000 description 1
- 150000008442 polyphenolic compounds Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 235000013824 polyphenols Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229920002223 polystyrene Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920002635 polyurethane Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000004814 polyurethane Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920002451 polyvinyl alcohol Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 235000019422 polyvinyl alcohol Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000003755 preservative agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 125000001436 propyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- WGYKZJWCGVVSQN-UHFFFAOYSA-N propylamine Chemical group CCCN WGYKZJWCGVVSQN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000002994 raw material Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000009257 reactivity Effects 0.000 description 1
- 229940092258 rosemary extract Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 235000020748 rosemary extract Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000001233 rosmarinus officinalis l. extract Substances 0.000 description 1
- YGSDEFSMJLZEOE-UHFFFAOYSA-N salicylic acid Chemical class OC(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1O YGSDEFSMJLZEOE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 235000019515 salmon Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 238000010008 shearing Methods 0.000 description 1
- HBMJWWWQQXIZIP-UHFFFAOYSA-N silicon carbide Chemical compound [Si+]#[C-] HBMJWWWQQXIZIP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229910010271 silicon carbide Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 229920002050 silicone resin Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 230000009759 skin aging Effects 0.000 description 1
- 229910021647 smectite Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 235000010413 sodium alginate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000000661 sodium alginate Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940005550 sodium alginate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000000600 sorbitol Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000001179 sorption measurement Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000003892 spreading Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000007480 spreading Effects 0.000 description 1
- 229940032094 squalane Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000008107 starch Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000019698 starch Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 125000004079 stearyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- 125000001424 substituent group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 239000005720 sucrose Substances 0.000 description 1
- BDHFUVZGWQCTTF-UHFFFAOYSA-M sulfonate Chemical compound [O-]S(=O)=O BDHFUVZGWQCTTF-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 230000001629 suppression Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000002194 synthesizing effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 229920001059 synthetic polymer Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000000454 talc Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910052623 talc Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- XOAAWQZATWQOTB-UHFFFAOYSA-N taurine Chemical class NCCS(O)(=O)=O XOAAWQZATWQOTB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 150000003626 triacylglycerols Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 125000002889 tridecyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- 125000000725 trifluoropropyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])(*)C([H])([H])C(F)(F)F 0.000 description 1
- QPQANCNBWQXGTQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N trihydroxy(trimethylsilylperoxy)silane Chemical compound C[Si](C)(C)OO[Si](O)(O)O QPQANCNBWQXGTQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000006097 ultraviolet radiation absorber Substances 0.000 description 1
- 125000002948 undecyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- 125000000391 vinyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])=C([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- 229930003231 vitamin Natural products 0.000 description 1
- 239000011782 vitamin Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940088594 vitamin Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 235000013343 vitamin Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000007762 w/o emulsion Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940118846 witch hazel Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 210000002268 wool Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 230000037303 wrinkles Effects 0.000 description 1
- 235000010493 xanthan gum Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000000230 xanthan gum Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920001285 xanthan gum Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229940082509 xanthan gum Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940098697 zinc laurate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- UHVMMEOXYDMDKI-JKYCWFKZSA-L zinc;1-(5-cyanopyridin-2-yl)-3-[(1s,2s)-2-(6-fluoro-2-hydroxy-3-propanoylphenyl)cyclopropyl]urea;diacetate Chemical compound [Zn+2].CC([O-])=O.CC([O-])=O.CCC(=O)C1=CC=C(F)C([C@H]2[C@H](C2)NC(=O)NC=2N=CC(=CC=2)C#N)=C1O UHVMMEOXYDMDKI-JKYCWFKZSA-L 0.000 description 1
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- 229910001928 zirconium oxide Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
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Landscapes
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Description
本発明は、疎水化処理無機粉体とシロキサン主鎖にオルガノポリシロキサン基と親水基がグラフトしたシリコーン系界面活性剤とシリコーン油とトリグリセライドとアスタキサンチンとを配合する油中水型乳化化粧料に関するものであり、更に詳しくは、粉体を配合した際にも使用性とアスタキサンチンの経時での安定性に優れる油中水型乳化化粧料に関するものである。 The present invention relates to a water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic comprising a hydrophobized inorganic powder, a silicone surfactant in which an organopolysiloxane group and a hydrophilic group are grafted on a siloxane main chain, silicone oil, triglyceride and astaxanthin. More particularly, the present invention relates to a water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic that is excellent in usability and astaxanthin stability over time even when powder is blended.
化粧料に配合されている素材には、カテキン等のポリフェノールや、アスタキサンチン等のカロテノイドのように、シワ、タルミの予防及び改善等の皮膚老化の防止、シミの予防・改善等の肌に有用な効果を本来は有することが知られていながら、その酸化安定性が低いため、製剤に安定に配合することが困難であるものが多い。
カロテノイドに関しては、光や熱により酸化され褪色が起こるため、遮光容器の利用や、抗酸化剤の配合等の褪色防止策が取られてきたが、十分なものではなかった。アスタキサンチンは赤色カロテノイドの一種であり、その抗酸化力は高いものであるが、アスタキサンチン類も熱、酸素、光などに対して不安定であるため、安定性を高める方法が検討されてきた。例えば、リン脂質を添加する方法(例えば、特許文献1参照)や、水中油型乳化化粧料においてリン脂質やトコフェロールを添加し、かつエマルションの粒径をコントロールする方法(例えば、特許文献2参照)等が挙げられる。
Ingredients used in cosmetics, such as polyphenols such as catechins and carotenoids such as astaxanthin, are useful for preventing skin aging such as prevention and improvement of wrinkles and tarmi, and for prevention and improvement of spots Although it is known to have an effect in nature, many of them are difficult to be stably blended into preparations because of their low oxidation stability.
Regarding carotenoids, since they are oxidized by light and heat and cause discoloration, measures to prevent discoloration such as the use of a light shielding container and the addition of an antioxidant have been taken, but they are not sufficient. Astaxanthin is a kind of red carotenoid and has high antioxidant power, but astaxanthins are also unstable to heat, oxygen, light, etc., and therefore methods for improving the stability have been studied. For example, a method of adding a phospholipid (for example, see Patent Document 1) or a method of adding a phospholipid or tocopherol in an oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic and controlling the particle size of the emulsion (for example, see Patent Document 2) Etc.
しかしながら、最近は、化粧水やクリーム等のスキンケア化粧料のみならず、これらの薬効成分を日焼け止め化粧料やファンデーション等の化粧料にも配合することが求められてきている。また、無機粉体等の粉体は、スキンケア化粧料メークアップ化粧料、毛髪化粧料の多くの化粧料に配合される原料である。特にファンデーションや下地化粧料等のメークアップ化粧料は、粉体を配合することにより、化粧効果を得ることが多いものであるため、薬効成分と粉体成分の相互作用は検討すべき課題であった。
粉体のアスタキサンチンへの作用は、粉体の固体触媒活性をアスタキサンチンなどのカロテノイド系色素の褪色により評価する方法(例えば、特許文献3参照)で示されているように、粉体の表面活性は、アスタキサンチンが熱、酸素、光などに対して不安定なものを更に悪化させる場合があった。
一方、油中水型乳化化粧料に、アスタキサンチンを配合すると、経時によりアスタキサンチンが油層から分離してしまい、化粧料中に安定に配合することが難しいものであった。
However, recently, it has been demanded that these medicinal ingredients are blended not only in skin care cosmetics such as skin lotions and creams but also in cosmetics such as sunscreen cosmetics and foundations. In addition, powders such as inorganic powders are raw materials blended in many cosmetics such as skin care cosmetics, makeup cosmetics, and hair cosmetics. In particular, makeup cosmetics such as foundations and base cosmetics often have a cosmetic effect by incorporating powder, so the interaction between medicinal ingredients and powder ingredients is a problem to be investigated. It was.
The action of powder on astaxanthin is based on the method of evaluating the solid catalyst activity of powder by the discoloration of carotenoid pigments such as astaxanthin (see, for example, Patent Document 3). In some cases, astaxanthin further deteriorated those unstable to heat, oxygen, light, and the like.
On the other hand, when astaxanthin is blended with a water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic, astaxanthin separates from the oil layer over time, and it is difficult to stably blend in the cosmetic.
リン脂質を添加したり、トコフェロールを添加する方法はアスタキサンチン単体の保存安定性には効果があるが、粉体との共存下での安定性という観点では効果が充分ではなく、エマルションの粒径をコントロ−ルする方法は水中油型乳化化粧料の技術であって、被乳化油としてアスタキサンチンを配合する際には有効でも、油相が外相である油中水型乳化化粧料に適用することは出来ないものである。
また、粉体の固体触媒活性を評価する方法では、粉体の表面処理によるアスタキサンチンの安定性への関連性については開示されているが、実際の化粧料としての安定性や使用性についてはなんら言及されておらず、ましてや油中水型乳化化粧料における安定性を教えるものではなかった。そこで、粉体を配合した際にも、伸び広がりが良く、化粧膜が均一に仕上がる等の使用性とアスタキサンチンの経時での安定性に優れ、かつ油中水型乳化化粧料においても安定である化粧料の開発が望まれていた。
The method of adding phospholipids or adding tocopherol is effective for the storage stability of astaxanthin alone, but the effect is not sufficient in terms of stability in the presence of powder, and the particle size of the emulsion is reduced. The control method is a technique of oil-in-water emulsified cosmetics, which is effective when blending astaxanthin as the oil to be emulsified, but is applicable to water-in-oil emulsified cosmetics whose oil phase is the outer phase. It cannot be done.
In addition, in the method for evaluating the solid catalyst activity of the powder, the relevance to the stability of astaxanthin by the surface treatment of the powder is disclosed, but there is nothing about the stability and usability as an actual cosmetic. It was not mentioned, nor did it teach stability in water-in-oil emulsified cosmetics. Therefore, even when blended with powder, the spread is good, the usability such as a uniform finish of the cosmetic film is excellent, the stability of astaxanthin over time, and also stable in water-in-oil emulsified cosmetics. The development of cosmetics was desired.
かかる実情に鑑み、本発明者らは鋭意検討した結果、疎水化処理無機粉体とシロキサン主鎖にオルガノポリシロキサン基と親水基がグラフトしたシリコーン系界面活性剤とシリコーン油とトリグリセライドとアスタキサンチンとを配合することにより、上記課題を解決しえる油中水型乳化化粧料が得られることを見出し、本発明を完成するに至った。表面活性の高い無機粉体を疎水化処理することでその表面活性を抑え、更にシロキサン主鎖にオルガノポリシロキサン基と親水基がグラフトしたシリコーン系界面活性剤を用いることで疎水化処理無機粉体のシリコーン油への分散性を向上させ、選択吸着によるアスタキサンチンと無機粉体との接触を妨げ、アスタキサンチンの安定性を向上させることが可能になった。更に、トリグリセライドの配合によりシリコーン油とアスタキサンチンの相溶性が適度に良くなり、安定性と化粧膜の均一性が向上することも見出された。 In view of this situation, the present inventors have conducted intensive studies, and as a result, obtained are a hydrophobized inorganic powder, a silicone surfactant in which an organopolysiloxane group and a hydrophilic group are grafted on the siloxane main chain, silicone oil, triglyceride, and astaxanthin. It discovered that the water-in-oil type emulsified cosmetic which can solve the said subject was obtained by mix | blending, and came to complete this invention. Hydrophobic treatment of inorganic powder with high surface activity by suppressing the surface activity, and further using a silicone surfactant in which organopolysiloxane groups and hydrophilic groups are grafted to the siloxane main chain It became possible to improve the dispersibility in silicone oil, to prevent contact between astaxanthin and inorganic powder by selective adsorption, and to improve the stability of astaxanthin. Furthermore, it has been found that the triglyceride blending improves the compatibility of silicone oil and astaxanthin to an appropriate level, improving the stability and uniformity of the cosmetic film.
すなわち、本発明は、
(1)次の成分(a)〜(e);
(a)疎水化処理無機粉体
(b)シロキサン主鎖にオルガノポリシロキサン基と親水基がグラフトしたシリコーン系界面活性剤
(c)シリコーン油
(d)トリグリセライド
(e)アスタキサンチン
を配合することを特徴とする油中水型乳化化粧料を提供するものである。
That is, the present invention
(1) the following components (a) to (e);
(A) Hydrophobized inorganic powder (b) Silicone surfactant in which organopolysiloxane group and hydrophilic group are grafted to siloxane main chain (c) Silicone oil (d) Triglyceride (e) Astaxanthin A water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic is provided.
(2)また、成分(a)の疎水化処理無機粉体が、ジメチルポリシロキサン処理、メチルハイドロジェンポリシロキサン処理、アルキルトリエトキキシラン処理、金属石鹸処理又はアクリルーシリコーングラフト共重合体処理から選択される1種又は2種以上であることを特徴とする(1)記載の油中水型乳化化粧料を提供するものである。 (2) In addition, the hydrophobized inorganic powder of component (a) is selected from dimethylpolysiloxane treatment, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane treatment, alkyltriethoxysilane treatment, metal soap treatment or acrylic-silicone graft copolymer treatment. The present invention provides a water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic according to (1), characterized in that the water-in-oil type emulsified cosmetic is (1) or more.
(3)また、本発明は疎水化処理が施されていない無機粉体の配合量が1質量%(以下単に「%」と記す)以下であることを特徴とする(1)または(2)に記載の油中水型乳化化粧料を提供するものである。 (3) Further, the present invention is characterized in that the blending amount of the inorganic powder not subjected to the hydrophobization treatment is 1% by mass (hereinafter simply referred to as “%”) or less (1) or (2) The water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic described in 1. is provided.
(4)また、成分(c)のシリコーン油が25℃において20mm2/s以下の粘度であることを特徴とする(1)〜(3)の何れかに記載の油中水型乳化化粧料を提供するものである。 (4) The water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic according to any one of (1) to (3), wherein the silicone oil as component (c) has a viscosity of 20 mm 2 / s or less at 25 ° C. Is to provide.
(5)成分(a)を1〜40%、成分(b)を0.5〜10%、成分(c)を1〜50%、成分(d)を0.1〜15%、成分(e)を0.00001〜0.1%配合することを特徴とする(1)〜(4)の何れかに記載の油中水型乳化化粧料を提供するものである。 (5) Component (a) 1-40%, Component (b) 0.5-10%, Component (c) 1-50%, Component (d) 0.1-15%, Component (e ) Is blended in an amount of 0.00001 to 0.1%. The water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic according to any one of (1) to (4) is provided.
(6)また、成分(d)のトリグリセライドの成分(e)のアスタキサンチンに対する配合量の比率(d)/(e)が50〜10000であることを特徴とする(1)〜(5)の何れかに記載の油中水型乳化化粧料を提供するものである。 (6) The ratio (d) / (e) of the blending amount of the component (d) of the triglyceride to the astaxanthin of the component (e) is 50 to 10,000, and any of (1) to (5) The water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic according to claim 1 is provided.
本発明の油中水型乳化化粧料は、粉体を配合した際にも、伸び広がりが良く、化粧膜が均一に仕上がる等の使用性とアスタキサンチンの経時での安定性に優れる油中水型乳化化粧料に関するものである。 The water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic of the present invention has a water-in-oil type that is excellent in usability, such as good spread and uniform finish of the cosmetic film and stability of astaxanthin over time, even when blended with powder. It relates to emulsified cosmetics.
以下、本発明を詳細に説明する。
本発明に用いられる成分(a)の疎水化処理無機粉体は、粉体に表面処理を施して、疎水性を付与した無機粉体である。
処理を施される無機粉体としては通常、化粧料に用いられる粉体であれば、球状、板状、針状等の形状、煙霧状、微粒子、顔料級等の粒子径、多孔質、無孔質等の粒子構造等により特に限定されない。具体的には、酸化チタン、黒色酸化チタン、コンジョウ、群青、ベンガラ、黄酸化鉄、黒酸化鉄、酸化亜鉛、酸化アルミニウム、無水ケイ酸、酸化マグネシウム、酸化ジルコニウム、炭酸マグネシウム、炭酸カルシウム、酸化クロム、水酸化クロム、ケイ酸アルミニウム、ケイ酸マグネシウム、ケイ酸アルミニウムマグネシウム、マイカ、合成マイカ、セリサイト、タルク、カオリン、炭化珪素、硫酸バリウム、ベントナイト、スメクタイト、窒化硼素、オキシ塩化ビスマス、酸化チタン被覆マイカ、酸化鉄被覆マイカ、酸化鉄被覆マイカチタン、有機顔料被覆マイカチタン、酸化チタン被覆ガラス末、酸化鉄酸化チタン被覆ガラス末、アルミニウムパウダー、微粒子酸化チタン被覆マイカチタン、微粒子酸化亜鉛被覆マイカチタン、硫酸バリウム被覆マイカチタン、酸化チタン含有無水ケイ酸、酸化亜鉛含有無水ケイ酸等が挙げられ、これらをその使用目的に応じて一種又は二種以上を用いることができる。
Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.
The hydrophobized inorganic powder of component (a) used in the present invention is an inorganic powder that has been subjected to surface treatment to impart hydrophobicity.
The inorganic powder to be treated is usually a powder used in cosmetics, such as spherical, plate-like, needle-like shapes, fumes, fine particles, pigment grades, etc., porous, no It is not particularly limited by the particle structure such as porosity. Specifically, titanium oxide, black titanium oxide, conger, ultramarine, bengara, yellow iron oxide, black iron oxide, zinc oxide, aluminum oxide, silicic anhydride, magnesium oxide, zirconium oxide, magnesium carbonate, calcium carbonate, chromium oxide , Chromium hydroxide, aluminum silicate, magnesium silicate, magnesium aluminum silicate, mica, synthetic mica, sericite, talc, kaolin, silicon carbide, barium sulfate, bentonite, smectite, boron nitride, bismuth oxychloride, titanium oxide coating Mica, iron oxide coated mica, iron oxide coated mica titanium, organic pigment coated mica titanium, titanium oxide coated glass powder, iron oxide titanium oxide coated glass powder, aluminum powder, fine particle titanium oxide coated mica titanium, fine particle zinc oxide coated mica titanium, Sulfate Um coated mica titanium, titanium oxide-containing silicic acid anhydride, zinc oxide containing anhydrous silicic acid and the like, can be used one or two or more in accordance with those on the intended use.
成分(a)における、前記無機粉体を疎水化処理する処理剤としては、例えば、ジメチルポリシロキサン、メチルハイドロジェンポリシロキサン、高粘度シリコーン、架橋型シリコーン、フッ素変性シリコーン、アクリルーシリコーングラフト共重合体、シリコーン樹脂等のシリコーン化合物、アニオン界面活性剤、カチオン界面活性剤、非イオン界面活性剤等の界面活性剤、ラウリン酸亜鉛、ステアリン酸亜鉛等の金属石鹸、ポリイソブチレン、ワックス、高級脂肪酸、高級アルコール等の油剤、N−アシルアミノ酸等のアミノ酸化合物、パーフルオロアルキルリン酸及びこの塩、パーフルオロポリエーテル、フルオロアルコキシシラン、パーフルオロポリエーテルアルキルリン酸及びこの塩、パーフルオロアルキルシラン等のフッ素化合物、ポリビニルピロリドン−ヘキサデセンのコポリマー等のポリビニルピロリドン変性ポリマー化合物等が挙げられる。粉体表面活性の抑制によるアスタキサンチンの安定性向上効果の観点から、ジメチルポリシロキサン処理、メチルハイドロジェンポリシロキサン処理、アルキルトリエトキシシラン処理、金属石鹸処理、アクリルーシリコーングラフト共重合体処理が特に好ましい。
これらの表面処理は、単独または二種以上を組合せてもよく、複合化した処理でもかまわない。またこれらの処理粉体を一種又は二種以上用いることができる。
Examples of the treating agent for hydrophobizing the inorganic powder in component (a) include dimethylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, high viscosity silicone, cross-linked silicone, fluorine-modified silicone, acrylic-silicone graft copolymer. Copolymers, silicone compounds such as silicone resins, anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, surfactants such as nonionic surfactants, metal soaps such as zinc laurate and zinc stearate, polyisobutylene, wax, higher fatty acids, Oils such as higher alcohols, amino acid compounds such as N-acylamino acids, perfluoroalkyl phosphoric acid and salts thereof, perfluoropolyether, fluoroalkoxysilane, perfluoropolyetheralkyl phosphoric acid and salts thereof, perfluoroalkylsilane, etc. Fluorine compound , Polyvinyl pyrrolidone - polyvinylpyrrolidone modified polymer compound copolymers such as hexadecene and the like. From the viewpoint of improving the stability of astaxanthin by suppressing the powder surface activity, dimethylpolysiloxane treatment, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane treatment, alkyltriethoxysilane treatment, metal soap treatment, and acrylic-silicone graft copolymer treatment are particularly preferred. .
These surface treatments may be used alone or in combination of two or more, or may be combined treatments. These treated powders can be used singly or in combination.
成分(a)において、前記処理剤を前記粉体に処理する方法は通常公知の方法が用いられ、特に限定されるものではないが、例えば、溶媒を使用する湿式法、気相法、メカノケミカル法等が挙げられる。また、成分(a)における前記処理剤と前記粉体との処理比は質量比として、0.1〜20:99.9〜80が好ましい。 In the component (a), the method for treating the powder with the treating agent is usually a known method and is not particularly limited. For example, a wet method using a solvent, a gas phase method, a mechanochemical Law. Further, the treatment ratio of the treating agent and the powder in the component (a) is preferably 0.1 to 20: 99.9 to 80 as a mass ratio.
また、アクリル−シリコーン系グラフト共重合体処理においてはアクリル−シリコーン系グラフト共重合体中に粉体を混練するチップ化処理を施すことも出来る。チップ化処理を施すことでより粉体の表面活性抑制効果や分散性が更に向上する。チップ化処理には、特開平06−009332号公報に記載の方法で行うことができるが、例えば、アクリル−シリコーン系グラフト共重合体中と粉体を混合して加熱下、高剪断力条件下で混練する方法、より好ましくは、アクリル−シリコーン系グラフト共重合体を揮発性溶剤に溶解したものに粉体を混合し、加熱下、高剪断力条件下で混練し、揮発性溶剤を揮散する方法がある。高剪断力条件下での混練は、例えばロールミル等を用いて混練することができる。チップ化処理の場合のアクリル−シリコーン系グラフト共重合体と粉体との配合割合は、アクリル−シリコーン系グラフト共重合体5〜70%、粉体30〜95%、特にアクリル−シリコーン系グラフト共重合体10〜50%、粉体50〜90%とするのが好ましい。 Further, in the acrylic-silicone graft copolymer treatment, a chip-forming treatment can be performed in which powder is kneaded into the acrylic-silicone graft copolymer. By performing the chip forming treatment, the surface activity suppression effect and dispersibility of the powder are further improved. The chip-forming treatment can be performed by the method described in JP-A-06-009332. For example, the acryl-silicone graft copolymer is mixed with the powder and heated under a high shear force condition. More preferably, the powder is mixed with a solution in which an acrylic-silicone graft copolymer is dissolved in a volatile solvent, and the mixture is kneaded under high shearing force under heating to volatilize the volatile solvent. There is a way. The kneading under high shear force conditions can be carried out using, for example, a roll mill. The blending ratio of the acrylic-silicone graft copolymer and the powder in the case of chipping treatment is 5 to 70% of the acrylic-silicone graft copolymer, 30 to 95% of the powder, especially the acrylic-silicone graft copolymer. The polymer content is preferably 10 to 50% and the powder content 50 to 90%.
本発明に用いられる成分(a)の配合量は1〜40%が好ましく、更に好ましくは3〜35%である。この範囲内であれば、粉体の表面活性によるアスタキサンチンの分解が抑制され安定であり、シリコーン油への分散が良好で均一な化粧膜が得られるなどの使用性に優れるため好ましい。 The amount of component (a) used in the present invention is preferably 1 to 40%, more preferably 3 to 35%. Within this range, the decomposition of astaxanthin due to the surface activity of the powder is suppressed and stable, and it is preferable because it is excellent in usability such as being able to obtain a uniform cosmetic film with good dispersion in silicone oil.
また、本発明に疎水化処理を施されていない無機粉体を効果を損なわない程度に配合することができるが、無機粉体を配合する際は、アスタキサンチンの安定性の観点から1%以下であることが好ましい。 Further, the inorganic powder that has not been subjected to the hydrophobizing treatment in the present invention can be blended to such an extent that the effect is not impaired, but when blending the inorganic powder, it is 1% or less from the viewpoint of astaxanthin stability. Preferably there is.
本発明に用いられる成分(b)のシロキサン主鎖にオルガノポリシロキサン基と親水基がグラフトしたシリコーン系界面活性剤の親水基としては、特に限定されないが、ポリオキシアルキレン基やポリグリセリル基であるものが好ましく、オルガノポリシロキサングラフトポリオキシアルキレン変性シリコーン、オルガノポリシロキサングラフトポリグリセリン変性シリコーン等が挙げられる。 The hydrophilic group of the silicone surfactant in which an organopolysiloxane group and a hydrophilic group are grafted to the siloxane main chain of the component (b) used in the present invention is not particularly limited, but is a polyoxyalkylene group or a polyglyceryl group Are preferable, and organopolysiloxane graft polyoxyalkylene-modified silicone, organopolysiloxane graft polyglycerin-modified silicone and the like can be mentioned.
成分(b)のシロキサン主鎖にオルガノポリシロキサン基と親水基がグラフトしたシリコーン系界面活性剤(以下、単に「特定のオルガノポリシロキサン基グラフトシリコーン系界面活性剤」と略すことがある。)として、特に好ましいものは、下記の一般式(1)に示されるものである。
R1 aR2 bR3 cSiO(4−a−b−c)/2 (1)
R1の具体例としては、メチル基、エチル基、プロピル基、ブチル基、ペンチル基、ヘキシル基、ヘプチル基、オクチル基、ノニル基、デシル基、ウンデシル基、ドデシル基、トリデシル基、テトラデシル基、ヘキサデシル基、オクタデシル基、エイコシル基等のアルキル基、シクロペンチル基、シクロヘキシル基等のシクロアルキル基、フェニル基、トリル基などのアリール基、ベンジル基、フェネチル基等のアラルキル基、トリフロロプロピル基、ヘプタデカフロロデシル基などのフッ素置換アルキル基、3−アミノプロピル、3−〔(2−アミノエチル)アミノ〕プロピル基等のアミノ置換アルキル基、3−カルボキシプロピル基等のカルボキシ置換アルキル基等が挙げられる。
As a silicone-based surfactant in which an organopolysiloxane group and a hydrophilic group are grafted to the siloxane main chain of component (b) (hereinafter sometimes simply referred to as “specific organopolysiloxane group-grafted silicone surfactant”). Particularly preferred are those represented by the following general formula (1).
R 1 a R 2 b R 3 c SiO (4-a-b-c) / 2 (1)
Specific examples of R 1 include methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, pentyl, hexyl, heptyl, octyl, nonyl, decyl, undecyl, dodecyl, tridecyl, tetradecyl, Hexadecyl, octadecyl, eicosyl and other alkyl groups, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and other cycloalkyl groups, phenyl, tolyl and other aryl groups, benzyl and phenethyl and other aralkyl groups, trifluoropropyl and hepta Fluorine-substituted alkyl groups such as decafluorodecyl group, amino-substituted alkyl groups such as 3-aminopropyl and 3-[(2-aminoethyl) amino] propyl groups, carboxy-substituted alkyl groups such as 3-carboxypropyl group, etc. It is done.
R1の一部は、下記一般式(2)
−CmH2m−O−(C2H4O)d(C3H6O)e−R4 (2)
であらわされる有機基であってもよい。ここでR4は炭素数4〜30の炭化水素基、又はR5−(CO)−で示される有機基であって、R5は炭素数1〜30の炭化水素基である。mは0≦m≦15の整数、d、eはそれぞれ0≦d≦50、0≦e≦50の整数である。このR5の一部はアルコール残基又はアルケニル付加型残基であり、具体例としては、
m=0のとき、
−O−(C2H4O)d(C3H6O)e−R4
この場合、d=0、e=0であれば炭素数4〜30のアルコキシ基、例えばブトキシ基などの低級アルコキシ基からセチルアルコール、オレイルアルコール、ステアリルアルコール等のオレイロキシ基、ステアロキシ基などの高級アルコキシ基が挙げられ、あるいは酢酸、乳酸、酪酸、オレイン酸、ステアリン酸、ベヘン酸等の脂肪酸残基が挙げられる。また、d>1、e>1であれば高級アルコールのアルキレンオキサイド付加物(末端は水酸基)のアルコール残基となる。
m≧1、d=e=0の場合は、特にdが3、5又は11が好ましく、この場合はアリルエーテル、ペンテニルエーテル、ウンデセニルエーテル残基であり、R4の置換基によって例えばアリルステアリルエーテル残基、ペンテニルベヘニルエーテル残基、ウンデセニルオレイルエーテル残基などが挙げられる。d若しくはeが0でない場合は、ポリオキシアルキレンを介してアルコキシ基やエステル基が存在することとなる。ここでd、eが何であれ、m=0のときは耐加水分解性に劣る場合があり、dが15以上であると油臭が強い為、3〜5であることが望ましい。
A part of R 1 is represented by the following general formula (2)
-C m H 2m -O- (C 2 H 4 O) d (C 3 H 6 O) e -R 4 (2)
An organic group represented by Here, R 4 is a hydrocarbon group having 4 to 30 carbon atoms or an organic group represented by R 5 — (CO) —, and R 5 is a hydrocarbon group having 1 to 30 carbon atoms. m is an integer of 0 ≦ m ≦ 15, and d and e are integers of 0 ≦ d ≦ 50 and 0 ≦ e ≦ 50, respectively. A part of this R 5 is an alcohol residue or an alkenyl addition type residue.
When m = 0
-O- (C 2 H 4 O) d (C 3 H 6 O) e -R 4
In this case, if d = 0 and e = 0, an alkoxy group having 4 to 30 carbon atoms, for example, a lower alkoxy group such as a butoxy group to a higher alkoxy such as an oleyloxy group such as cetyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, and stearyl alcohol, and a stearoxy group Or fatty acid residues such as acetic acid, lactic acid, butyric acid, oleic acid, stearic acid, and behenic acid. Further, if d> 1 and e> 1, it becomes an alcohol residue of an alkylene oxide adduct of higher alcohol (terminal is a hydroxyl group).
When m ≧ 1 and d = e = 0, d is preferably 3, 5 or 11, in which case it is an allyl ether, pentenyl ether, or undecenyl ether residue, for example allyl stearyl depending on the substituent of R 4 Examples include ether residues, pentenyl behenyl ether residues, undecenyl oleyl ether residues, and the like. When d or e is not 0, an alkoxy group or an ester group is present via polyoxyalkylene. Whatever d and e are, when m = 0, the hydrolysis resistance may be inferior. When d is 15 or more, the oily odor is strong.
R2は、下記一般式(3)
−CmH2m−O−(C2H4O)f(C3H6O)g−R6 (3)
で示されるポリオキシアルキレン基を有する有機基、もしくは下記一般式(4)
−Q−O−X (4)
(式中、Qはエーテル結合及びエステル結合の少なくとも一方を含有してもよい炭素数3〜20の二価の炭化水素基を示し、Xは水酸基を少なくとも2個有する多価アルコール置換炭化水素基を示す。)で示される有機基から選択される同種または異種の有機基である。
一般式(4)中のR6は、水素原子若しくは炭素数1〜30の炭化水素基、又はR5−(CO)−で示される有機基であり、R5は炭素数1〜30の炭化水素基である。fは2〜200、好ましくは5〜100の整数、gは0〜200、好ましくは0〜100の整数で、かつ、f+gは3〜200、好ましくは5〜100であり、f/g≧1であることが好ましい。なお、一般式(3)で示されるポリオキシアルキレン基がエチレンオキサイド単位とプロピレンオキサイド単位の両方からなる場合は、これら両単位のブロック重合体及びランダム重合体のいずれでも良い。
一般式(5)中のQは、−(CH2)2−、−(CH2)3−、−CH2CH(CH3)CH2−、−(CH2)4−、−(CH2)6−、−(CH2)7−、−(CH2)8−、−(CH2)2−CH(CH2CH2CH3)−、−CH2−CH(CH2CH3)−、−(CH2)3−O−(CH2)2−、−(CH2)3−O−(CH2)2−O−(CH2)2−、−(CH2)3−O−CH2CH(CH3)−、−CH2−CH(CH3)−COO(CH2)2−等を例示することができる。Xは、水酸基を少なくとも2個有する多価アルコール置換炭化水素基であって、好ましくはグリセリンから選択される炭化水素基である。
R 2 represents the following general formula (3)
-C m H 2m -O- (C 2 H 4 O) f (C 3 H 6 O) g -R 6 (3)
Or an organic group having a polyoxyalkylene group represented by the following general formula (4)
-QOX (4)
(In the formula, Q represents a C 3-20 divalent hydrocarbon group which may contain at least one of an ether bond and an ester bond, and X represents a polyhydric alcohol-substituted hydrocarbon group having at least two hydroxyl groups. And the same or different organic groups selected from organic groups represented by
R 6 in the general formula (4) is a hydrogen atom, a hydrocarbon group having 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an organic group represented by R 5 — (CO) —, and R 5 is a carbon atom having 1 to 30 carbon atoms. It is a hydrogen group. f is an integer of 2 to 200, preferably 5 to 100, g is an integer of 0 to 200, preferably 0 to 100, and f + g is 3 to 200, preferably 5 to 100, and f / g ≧ 1. It is preferable that In addition, when the polyoxyalkylene group shown by General formula (3) consists of both an ethylene oxide unit and a propylene oxide unit, any of the block polymer of these both units and a random polymer may be sufficient.
The Q in the general formula (5), - (CH 2 ) 2 -, - (CH 2) 3 -, - CH 2 CH (CH 3) CH 2 -, - (CH 2) 4 -, - (CH 2 ) 6 -,-(CH 2 ) 7 -,-(CH 2 ) 8 -,-(CH 2 ) 2 -CH (CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 )-, -CH 2 -CH (CH 2 CH 3 )- , — (CH 2 ) 3 —O— (CH 2 ) 2 —, — (CH 2 ) 3 —O— (CH 2 ) 2 —O— (CH 2 ) 2 —, — (CH 2 ) 3 —O— CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) —, —CH 2 —CH (CH 3 ) —COO (CH 2 ) 2 — and the like can be exemplified. X is a polyhydric alcohol-substituted hydrocarbon group having at least two hydroxyl groups, and is preferably a hydrocarbon group selected from glycerin.
グリセリンとしては、下記一般式(A)〜(C)に示す化合物が挙げられる。 Examples of glycerin include compounds represented by the following general formulas (A) to (C).
ここで、上記式(A)〜(C)中のQは、一般式(4)中のQと同様であり、l及びmは1〜20の整数である。また、上記化合物中の水酸基の一部がアルコキシ基あるいはエステル基で置換されていても良い。 Here, Q in the above formulas (A) to (C) is the same as Q in the general formula (4), and l and m are integers of 1 to 20. In addition, a part of the hydroxyl group in the compound may be substituted with an alkoxy group or an ester group.
R3は、下記一般式(5) R 3 represents the following general formula (5)
で示されるオルガノポリシロキサンである。ここで、hは1〜500であり、好ましくは1〜50の整数である。nは1〜5の整数であり、特にビニル基とハイドロジェンシロキサンとの反応から合成する場合、nは2である。hが500より大きいと主鎖のハイドロジェンシロキサンとの反応性が悪くなるなどの問題が起こる場合がある。 It is the organopolysiloxane shown by these. Here, h is 1 to 500, preferably an integer of 1 to 50. n is an integer of 1 to 5, and when synthesizing from a reaction between a vinyl group and hydrogen siloxane, n is 2. If h is greater than 500, problems such as poor reactivity with the main chain hydrogen siloxane may occur.
本発明における上記一般式(1)で例示される成分(b)は、aは1.0〜2.5、好ましくは1.2〜2.3である。aが1.0より小さいと油剤との相溶性に劣り、2.5より大きいと親水性に乏しくなる。bは0.001〜1.5、好ましくは0.05〜1.0である。bが0.001より小さいと親水性に乏しくなり、1.5より大きいと親水性が高くなりすぎる。cは0.001〜1.5、好ましくは0.05〜1.0である。cが0.001より小さいとシリコーン油との相溶性に劣り、1.5より大きくなると親水性に乏しくなる。
本発明で用いられる上記一般式(1)で例示される成分(b)の重量平均分子量は、特に限定されるものではないが、500〜200000が好ましく、更に好ましくは1000〜100000である。
In the component (b) exemplified in the general formula (1) in the present invention, a is 1.0 to 2.5, preferably 1.2 to 2.3. When a is less than 1.0, the compatibility with the oil is poor, and when it is greater than 2.5, the hydrophilicity is poor. b is 0.001 to 1.5, preferably 0.05 to 1.0. If b is less than 0.001, the hydrophilicity will be poor, and if it is more than 1.5, the hydrophilicity will be too high. c is 0.001 to 1.5, preferably 0.05 to 1.0. When c is less than 0.001, the compatibility with silicone oil is poor, and when it is greater than 1.5, the hydrophilicity is poor.
Although the weight average molecular weight of the component (b) illustrated by the said General formula (1) used by this invention is not specifically limited, 500-200000 are preferable, More preferably, it is 1000-100000.
本発明における成分(b)の市販品としては、オルガノポリシロキサングラフトポリオキシアルキレン変性シリコーンは、KF−6028(信越化学工業社製、表示名称;PEG−9ポリジメチルシロキシエチルジメチコン)、KF−6038(信越化学工業社製、表示名称;ラウリルPEG−9ポリジメチルシロキシエチルジメチコン)、オルガノポリシロキサングラフトポリグリセリン変性シリコーンは、KF−6104(信越化学工業社製、表示名称;ポリグリセリル−3ポリジメチルシロキシエチルジメチコン)、KF−6105(信越化学工業社製、表示名称;ラウリルポリグリセリル−3ポリジメチルシロキシエチルジメチコン)等が挙げられ、その中でもKF−6028が特に好ましい。 As a commercial item of the component (b) in this invention, organopolysiloxane graft | grafting polyoxyalkylene modified silicone is KF-6028 (The Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd. make, display name; PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone), KF-6038. (Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd., display name; lauryl PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone), organopolysiloxane grafted polyglycerin-modified silicone is KF-6104 (Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd., display name; polyglyceryl-3 polydimethylsiloxy) Ethyl dimethicone), KF-6105 (manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd., display name; lauryl polyglyceryl-3 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone), and the like, among which KF-6028 is particularly preferable.
本発明に用いられる成分(b)の配合量は0.5〜10%が好ましく、更に好ましくは1〜8%である。この範囲内であればアスタキサンチンの安定性と伸び広がりの良さ、化粧膜の均一性等の使用性に優れるため好ましい。 The blending amount of the component (b) used in the present invention is preferably 0.5 to 10%, more preferably 1 to 8%. Within this range, astaxanthin is preferable because it is excellent in stability, good spread and usability such as uniformity of the decorative film.
本発明に用いられる成分(c)のシリコーン油は、特に限定されないが、25℃で液状のものが好ましく、オクタメチルシクロテトラシロキサン、デカメチルシクロペンタシロキサン、ドデカメチルシクロヘキサシロキサン、ヘキサメチルジシロキサン、オクタメチルトリシロキサン、デカメチルテトラシロキサン、メチルトリメチコン、カプルリルトリメチコン、ジメチルポリシロキサン、メチルフェニルポリシロキサン等が挙げられ、これらを一種又は二種以上を用いることができる。 The silicone oil of component (c) used in the present invention is not particularly limited, but is preferably liquid at 25 ° C., and octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane. , Octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, methyltrimethicone, caprylyltrimethicone, dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, and the like, and one or more of these can be used.
本発明に用いられる成分(c)のシリコーン油の粘度は25℃において20mm2/s以下の粘度であることが好ましく、更に好ましくは10mm2/s以下である。 The viscosity of the silicone oil of component (c) used in the present invention is preferably 20 mm 2 / s or less at 25 ° C., more preferably 10 mm 2 / s or less.
本発明に用いられる成分(c)の配合量は1〜50%が好ましく、更に好ましくは5〜40%である。この範囲内であればアスタキサンチンの安定性や使用感に優れるため好ましい。 The blending amount of the component (c) used in the present invention is preferably 1 to 50%, more preferably 5 to 40%. Within this range, astaxanthin is excellent in stability and usability, which is preferable.
本発明に用いられる成分(d)のトリグリセライドは特に限定されないが25℃で液状のものが好ましく、トリ2−エチルヘキサン酸グリセリル、トリ(カプリル/カプリン酸)グリセリル、トリイソステアリン酸グリセリル、トリパーム油脂肪酸グリセリル、トリマカダミアナッツ油脂肪酸グリセリル等が挙げられ、これらを一種又は二種以上を用いることができる。 The triglyceride of component (d) used in the present invention is not particularly limited, but is preferably liquid at 25 ° C., glyceryl tri-2-ethylhexanoate, glyceryl tri (capryl / capric acid), glyceryl triisostearate, tripalm oil fatty acid Examples thereof include glyceryl and trimacadamia nut oil fatty acid glyceryl, and one or more of them can be used.
本発明に用いられる成分(d)の配合量は0.1〜15%が好ましく、更に好ましくは0.5〜10%である。この範囲内であればアスタキサンチンの安定性や使用感に優れるため好ましい。 The blending amount of component (d) used in the present invention is preferably 0.1 to 15%, more preferably 0.5 to 10%. Within this range, astaxanthin is excellent in stability and usability, which is preferable.
本発明に用いられる成分(e)のアスタキサンチンは化学合成品でも、オキアミ、サケ、マス、福寿草、赤色酵母、ヘマトコッカス等の天然物から抽出されたものでもよく、例えば以下の如くして調製されるものが好ましく利用できる。すなわち、オキアミ科オキアミ(Euphausia similis G.O.等)に抽出溶媒を加え抽出し、この抽出液を濾別して得られるアスタキサンチン抽出エキスや、この抽出エキスから更に抽出溶媒を留去し、必要に応じて水素添加や加水分解等の化学反応を行った後、分子蒸留、あるいはカラムクロマトグラフィーや高速液体クロマトグラフィー(HPLC)等の手段を用いて脱臭、精製を行った精製アスタキサンチンを用いることができる。上記抽出溶媒としては、アセトン、エーテル、クロロホルム及びアルコール(エタノール、メタノール等)等の有機溶媒を用いることができ、また、これらの混合溶液を用いることもできる。あるいは、超臨界状態の二酸化炭素を用いてもよい。 The astaxanthin as the component (e) used in the present invention may be a chemically synthesized product or one extracted from natural products such as krill, salmon, trout, fussa, red yeast, hematococcus, etc. Can be preferably used. That is, an extraction solvent is added to Krill family krill (Euphasia similis G.O., etc.) and extracted, and astaxanthin extract extract obtained by filtering this extract, or the extract solvent is further distilled off from this extract, if necessary. Then, after performing a chemical reaction such as hydrogenation or hydrolysis, purified astaxanthin that has been deodorized and purified using means such as molecular distillation or column chromatography or high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) can be used. As said extraction solvent, organic solvents, such as acetone, ether, chloroform, alcohol (ethanol, methanol, etc.), can also be used, and these mixed solutions can also be used. Alternatively, supercritical carbon dioxide may be used.
本発明に用いられる成分(e)の配合量は0.00001〜0.1%が好ましく、更に0.0001〜0.01%が好ましい。この範囲内であればアスタキサンチンのこの効果が充分に得られるため好ましい。 The amount of component (e) used in the present invention is preferably 0.00001 to 0.1%, more preferably 0.0001 to 0.01%. Within this range, this effect of astaxanthin is sufficiently obtained, which is preferable.
本発明に用いられる成分(d)と(e)の配合量の比は(d)/(e)が50〜10000であることが好ましい。この範囲であれば、アスタキサンチンの油層への溶解性が適度であり経時での安定性の向上効果に優れる。 As for the ratio of the amount of components (d) and (e) used in the present invention, (d) / (e) is preferably 50 to 10,000. Within this range, the solubility of astaxanthin in the oil layer is moderate, and the effect of improving the stability over time is excellent.
本発明の油中水型乳化化粧料における水の配合量は、成分(a)〜(e)の配合量にも依存するが、概ね10〜80%が好ましい The blending amount of water in the water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic of the present invention depends on the blending amounts of the components (a) to (e), but is preferably 10 to 80%.
本発明の油中水型乳化化粧料には、上記成分の他に、通常、化粧料に使用される成分、成分(a)以外の粉体、成分(b)以外の界面活性剤、成分(c)(d)(e)以外の油剤、油ゲル化剤、紫外線吸収剤、水溶性高分子やアルコール等の水性成分、トリメチルシロキシケイ酸等の油溶性被膜形成剤、パラオキシ安息香酸誘導体、フェノキシエタノール等の防腐剤、ビタミン類、美容成分、香料等を本発明の効果を損なわない範囲で適宜配合することができる。 In addition to the above components, the water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic of the present invention usually includes components used in cosmetics, powders other than component (a), surfactants other than component (b), and components ( c) Oils other than (d) and (e), oil gelling agents, ultraviolet absorbers, aqueous components such as water-soluble polymers and alcohols, oil-soluble film forming agents such as trimethylsiloxysilicic acid, paraoxybenzoic acid derivatives, phenoxyethanol Such preservatives, vitamins, cosmetic ingredients, fragrances and the like can be appropriately blended within a range not impairing the effects of the present invention.
成分(a)以外の粉体としては有機粉体や色素が挙げられ、例えば、ナイロンパウダー、ポリメチルメタクリレートパウダー、アクリロニトリル−メタクリル酸共重合体パウダー、塩化ビニリデン−メタクリル酸共重合体パウダー、ポリエチレンパウダー、ポリスチレンパウダー、オルガノポリシロキサンエラストマーパウダー、ポリメチルシルセスキオキサンパウダー、ポリウレタンパウダー、ウールパウダー、シルクパウダー、結晶セルロースパウダー、N−アシルリジンパウダー等の有機粉体、有機タール系顔料、有機色素のレーキ顔料等が挙げられ、これらを一種又は二種以上を用いることができる。 Examples of powders other than component (a) include organic powders and pigments, such as nylon powder, polymethyl methacrylate powder, acrylonitrile-methacrylic acid copolymer powder, vinylidene chloride-methacrylic acid copolymer powder, polyethylene powder. , Polystyrene powder, organopolysiloxane elastomer powder, polymethylsilsesquioxane powder, polyurethane powder, wool powder, silk powder, crystalline cellulose powder, organic powder such as N-acyl lysine powder, organic tar pigment, organic dye A lake pigment etc. are mentioned, These can use 1 type, or 2 or more types.
成分(b)以外の界面活性剤としては、分散剤、乳化助剤、感触調整剤等の目的で用いられるものであり、グリセリン脂肪酸エステルおよびそのアルキレングリコール付加物、ポリグリセリン脂肪酸エステルおよびそのアルキレングリコール付加物、プロピレングリコール脂肪酸エステルおよびそのアルキレングリコール付加物、ソルビタン脂肪酸エステルおよびそのアルキレングリコール付加物、ソルビトールの脂肪酸エステルおよびそのアルキレングリコール付加物、ポリアルキレングリコール脂肪酸エステル、ポリオキシアルキレン変性シリコーン、ポリオキシアルキレンアルキル共変性シリコーン等の非イオン性界面活性剤類、アルキルベンゼン硫酸塩、アルキルスルホン酸塩、α−オレフィンスルホン酸塩、ジアルキルスルホコハク酸塩、α−スルホン化脂肪酸塩、アシルメチルタウリン塩、N−メチル−N−アルキルタウリン塩、ポリオキシエチレンアルキルエーテル硫酸塩、ポリオキシエチレンアルキルフェニルエーテル硫酸塩、アルキル燐酸塩、ポリオキシエチレンアルキルエーテル燐酸塩、ポリオキシエチレンアルキルフェニルエーテル燐酸塩、N−アシルアミノ酸塩、N−アシル−N−アルキルアミノ酸塩等の陰イオン性界面活性剤類、アルキルアミン塩、ポリアミンおよびアルカノイルアミン脂肪酸誘導体、アルキルアンモニウム塩、脂環式アンモニウム塩等の陽イオン性界面活性剤類、レシチン、N,N−ジメチル−N−アルキル−N−カルボキシメチルアンモニウムベタイン等の両性界面活性剤等が挙げられ、これらを一種又は二種以上を用いることができる。 Surfactants other than component (b) are those used for the purpose of dispersing agents, emulsifying aids, feel modifiers, etc., and include glycerin fatty acid esters and alkylene glycol adducts thereof, polyglycerin fatty acid esters and alkylene glycols thereof. Adduct, propylene glycol fatty acid ester and its alkylene glycol adduct, sorbitan fatty acid ester and its alkylene glycol adduct, sorbitol fatty acid ester and its alkylene glycol adduct, polyalkylene glycol fatty acid ester, polyoxyalkylene-modified silicone, polyoxyalkylene Nonionic surfactants such as alkyl co-modified silicone, alkylbenzene sulfate, alkyl sulfonate, α-olefin sulfonate, dialkyl sulfosuccinate Acid salt, α-sulfonated fatty acid salt, acylmethyl taurine salt, N-methyl-N-alkyl taurine salt, polyoxyethylene alkyl ether sulfate, polyoxyethylene alkyl phenyl ether sulfate, alkyl phosphate, polyoxyethylene alkyl Anionic surfactants such as ether phosphates, polyoxyethylene alkylphenyl ether phosphates, N-acyl amino acid salts, N-acyl-N-alkyl amino acid salts, alkylamine salts, polyamines and alkanoylamine fatty acid derivatives, alkyls Cationic surfactants such as ammonium salts and alicyclic ammonium salts, amphoteric surfactants such as lecithin and N, N-dimethyl-N-alkyl-N-carboxymethylammonium betaine, and the like are listed. Or by using two or more That.
成分(c)(d)(e)以外の油剤としては、例えば、パラフィンワックス、セレシンワックス、オゾケライト、マイクロクリスタリンワックス、モンタンワックス、フィッシャトロプスワックス、ポリエチレンワックス、流動パラフィン、スクワラン、ワセリン、ポリイソブチレン、ポリブテン等の炭化水素系類、カルナウバロウ、ミツロウ、ラノリンワックス、キャンデリラ等の天然ロウ類、ロジン酸ペンタエリトリットエステル、イソオクタン酸セチル、ミリスチン酸イソプロピル、トリイソステアリン酸ジグリセリル、ジペンタエリトリット脂肪酸エステル等のトリグリセライド以外のエステル類、ステアリン酸、ベヘニン酸、12−ヒドロキシステアリン酸等の脂肪酸類、セタノール、ステアリルアルコール、ベヘニルアルコール等の高級アルコール類、ラノリン脂肪酸イソプロピル、ラノリンアルコール等のラノリン誘導体類、N−ラウロイルーL−グルタミン酸ジ(コレステリル・ベヘニル・オクチルドデシル)等のアミノ酸誘導体類、パーフルオロポリエーテル、パーフルオロデカン、パーフルオロオクタン等のフッ素系油剤類等が挙げられ、これらを一種又は二種以上を用いることができる。 Examples of oils other than components (c), (d), and (e) include, for example, paraffin wax, ceresin wax, ozokerite, microcrystalline wax, montan wax, fisher trops wax, polyethylene wax, liquid paraffin, squalane, petrolatum, polyisobutylene. , Hydrocarbons such as polybutene, natural waxes such as carnauba wax, beeswax, lanolin wax, candelilla, pentaerythritol ester of rosin acid, cetyl isooctanoate, isopropyl myristate, diglyceryl triisostearate, dipentaerythritol fatty acid ester Esters other than triglycerides, stearic acid, behenic acid, fatty acids such as 12-hydroxystearic acid, cetanol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol Higher alcohols, lanolin derivatives such as lanolin fatty acid isopropyl and lanolin alcohol, amino acid derivatives such as di-cholesteryl, behenyl, octyldodecyl, N-lauroyl L-glutamate, perfluoropolyether, perfluorodecane, perfluorooctane Fluorine-based oils, etc., etc. are mentioned, These can use 1 type, or 2 or more types.
油ゲル化剤としては、通常、化粧料に用いられるものであれば何れでもよく、例えば、デキストリン脂肪酸エステル、蔗糖脂肪酸エステル、デンプン脂肪酸エステル、ヒドロキシステアリン酸、ステアリン酸カルシウム等が挙げられ、これらを一種又は二種以上を用いることができる。 As the oil gelling agent, any one can be used as long as it is usually used in cosmetics. Examples thereof include dextrin fatty acid ester, sucrose fatty acid ester, starch fatty acid ester, hydroxystearic acid, calcium stearate, and the like. Or 2 or more types can be used.
紫外線吸収剤としては、通常、化粧料に用いられるものであれば何れでもよく、例えば、2−ヒドロキシ−4−メトキシベンゾフェノン、2,4,6−トリアニリノ−パラ−(カルボ−2’−エチルヘキシル−1’−オキシ)−1,3,5−トリアジン、2,4−ビス[{4−(2−エチルヘキシロキシ)−2−ヒドロキシ}−フェニル]−6−(4−メトキシフェニル)−(1,3,5)−トリアジン、2−2‘−メチレン−ビス−{6−(2H−ベンゾトリアゾール−2−イル)−4−(1,1,3,3、−テトラメチルブチル)フェノール}等のベンゾフェノン系、サリチル酸−2−エチルヘキシル等のサリチル酸系、パラジヒドロキシプロピル安息香酸エチル、2−{4−(ジエチルアミノ)−2−ヒドロキシベンゾイル}安息香酸ヘキシル等のPABA系、パラメトキシ桂皮酸−2−エチルヘキシル等の桂皮酸系、4−tert−4’−メトキシジベンゾイルメタン等のジベンゾイルメタン系、2−2‘−メチレン−ビス−{6−(2H−ベンゾトリアゾール−2−イル)−4−(1,1,3,3、−テトラメチルブチル)フェノール}等が挙げられ、これらを一種又は二種以上を用いることができる。 As the ultraviolet absorber, any one usually used in cosmetics may be used. For example, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2,4,6-trianilino-para- (carbo-2′-ethylhexyl- 1′-oxy) -1,3,5-triazine, 2,4-bis [{4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy} -phenyl] -6- (4-methoxyphenyl)-(1 , 3,5) -triazine, 2-2′-methylene-bis- {6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3, -tetramethylbutyl) phenol} and the like Benzophenone series, salicylic acid series such as 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, ethyl paradihydroxypropylbenzoate, 2- {4- (diethylamino) -2-hydroxybenzoyl} hexyl benzoate, etc. PABA, cinnamic acid such as paramethoxycinnamic acid-2-ethylhexyl, dibenzoylmethane such as 4-tert-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane, 2-2'-methylene-bis- {6- (2H-benzo Triazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3, -tetramethylbutyl) phenol} and the like, and one or more of them can be used.
水性成分としては、水に可溶な成分であれば何れでもよく、例えば、エチルアルコール、プロピルアルコール等の低級アルコール類、プロピレングリコール、1,3−ブチレングリコール、ジプロピレングリコール、ポリエチレングリコール等のグリコール類、グリセリン、ジグリセリン、ポリグリセリン等のグリセロール類、アロエベラ、ウイッチヘーゼル、ハマメリス、キュウリ、レモン、ラベンダー、ローズ等の植物抽出液等が挙げられ、水溶性高分子としては、メチルセルロース、ヒドロキシメチルセルロース、ヒドロキシエチルセルロース、ヒドロキシプロピルセルロース、ヒドロキシプロピルメチルセルロース、カルボキシメチルセルロース等のセルロース誘導体類、アルギン酸ソーダ、カラギーナン、クインスシードガム、寒天、ゼラチン、キサンタンガム、ローカストビーンガム、ペクチン、ジェランガム等の天然高分子類、ポリビニルアルコール、カルボシキビニルポリマー、アルキル付加カルボシキビニルポリマー、ポリアクリル酸ソーダ、ポリメタクリル酸ソーダ、ポリアクリル酸グリセリンエステル,ポリビニルピロリドン等の合成高分子類等が挙げられ、これらの一種又は二種以上を用いることができる。 The aqueous component may be any component that is soluble in water, for example, lower alcohols such as ethyl alcohol and propyl alcohol, glycols such as propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and polyethylene glycol. , Glycerols such as glycerin, diglycerin, polyglycerin, plant extracts such as aloe vera, witch hazel, hamamelis, cucumber, lemon, lavender, rose, etc., and water-soluble polymers include methylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, Cellulose derivatives such as hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, sodium alginate, carrageenan, quince seed gum, cold Natural polymers such as gelatin, xanthan gum, locust bean gum, pectin, gellan gum, polyvinyl alcohol, carboxyl vinyl polymer, alkyl-added carboxyl vinyl polymer, polyacrylic acid soda, polymethacrylic acid soda, polyacrylic acid glycerin ester, Examples thereof include synthetic polymers such as polyvinyl pyrrolidone, and one or more of these can be used.
本発明の油中水型乳化化粧料は、油剤が連続相として乳化物の外相を形成しているものであり、必要に応じて他の成分を併用して常法により調製することができる。液状、乳液状、クリーム状、固形状、ゲル状、ペースト状等、種々の形態にて実施することができる。また、本発明の油中水型乳化化粧料は、乳液及びクリーム、日焼け止め、化粧下地、ファンデーション、コンシーラー、頬紅、アイシャドウ、口紅等の製品にて実施することができ、特に乳液、クリーム、日焼け止め、化粧下地、ファンデーション等の全顔に使用するものが好ましい。 The water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic of the present invention is one in which the oil agent forms the outer phase of the emulsion as a continuous phase, and can be prepared by a conventional method in combination with other components as necessary. It can be carried out in various forms such as liquid, emulsion, cream, solid, gel, and paste. The water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic of the present invention can be applied to products such as emulsions and creams, sunscreens, makeup foundations, foundations, concealers, blushers, eye shadows, lipsticks, and particularly emulsions, creams, Those used for the entire face such as sunscreen, makeup base, foundation and the like are preferred.
以下に実施例を挙げて、本発明を更に詳細に説明する。尚、これらは本発明を何ら限定するものではない。 Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to examples. Note that these do not limit the present invention.
実施例1〜13及び比較例1〜5:油中水型乳化ファンデーション
表1、2に示す組成の油中水型乳化ファンデーションを下記製造方法により調製し、使用性として、伸び広がりの良さと化粧膜の均一性、アスタキサンチンの安定性の各項目について、以下に示す評価方法及び判定基準により評価判定し、結果を併せて表1、2に示した。
Examples 1 to 13 and Comparative Examples 1 to 5: Water-in-oil type emulsified foundations Water-in-oil type emulsified foundations having the compositions shown in Tables 1 and 2 were prepared by the following production method. Each of the items of film uniformity and astaxanthin stability was evaluated and determined by the following evaluation methods and criteria, and the results are shown in Tables 1 and 2.
*1:MT−500SA(テイカ社製)80部に対してKP−540(信越化学工業社製)20部をイソプロパノール中で混練し、チップ化処理したもの。
*2:ハイコールK−230(カネダ社製)
*3:アスタキサンチン純分に換算して配合量を記載した。
*4:SH200C FLUID 6CS(東レ・ダウコーニング社製)
*5:KF−6028P(PEG−9ポリジメチルシロキシエチルジメチコン)(信越化学工業社製)
*6:KF−6105(ラウリルポリグリセリル−3ポリジメチルシロキシエチルジメチコン(信越化学工業社製)
*7:KF6019(PEG−10ジメチコン)(信越化学工業社製)
* 1: 20 parts of KP-540 (manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.) and 80 parts of MT-500SA (manufactured by Teika) were kneaded in isopropanol and chipped.
* 2: High call K-230 (manufactured by Kaneda)
* 3: The blending amount is described in terms of pure astaxanthin.
* 4: SH200C FLUID 6CS (Toray Dow Corning)
* 5: KF-6028P (PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone) (manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.)
* 6: KF-6105 (Laurylpolyglyceryl-3polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone (manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.))
* 7: KF6019 (PEG-10 dimethicone) (manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.)
(製造方法)
A:成分15〜25を混合する。
B:成分1〜14をAに添加し、混合する。
C:成分26〜30を混合溶解する。
D:CをAに加え乳化して、容器に充填して油中水型乳化ファンデーションを得た。
(Production method)
A: Components 15 to 25 are mixed.
B: Components 1 to 14 are added to A and mixed.
C: Components 26 to 30 are mixed and dissolved.
D: C was added to A, emulsified, and filled into a container to obtain a water-in-oil emulsion foundation.
〔評価方法1〕
化粧料評価専門パネル20名に、表1、2に記載の実施例及び比較例の油中水型乳化ファンデーションを使用してもらい、「伸び広がりの良さ」、「化粧膜の均一性」、の其々の項目について、各自が以下の評価基準に従って5段階評価しファンデーション毎に評点を付し、更に全パネルの評点の平均点を以下の判定基準に従って判定した。
評価基準:
[評価結果] :[評点]
非常に良好 :5点
良好 :4点
普通 :3点
やや不良 :2点
不良 :1点
判定基準:
[評点の平均点] :[判定]
4.5以上 :◎
3.5以上〜4.5未満:○
1.5以上〜3.5未満:△
1.5未満 :×
[Evaluation Method 1]
20 panelists specializing in cosmetics evaluation use the water-in-oil emulsified foundations of the examples and comparative examples described in Tables 1 and 2 to determine “goodness of elongation” and “uniformity of cosmetic film”. Each item was evaluated on a five-point scale according to the following evaluation criteria, given a score for each foundation, and the average score of all panels was determined according to the following criteria.
Evaluation criteria:
[Evaluation Result]: [Score]
Very good: 5 points Good: 4 points Normal: 3 points Somewhat bad: 2 points Bad: 1 point Judgment criteria:
[Average score]: [Judgment]
4.5 or more: ◎
3.5 or more and less than 4.5: ○
1.5 or more and less than 3.5: △
Less than 1.5: ×
〔評価方法2〕
アスタキサンチンは476nmに吸光ピークを持ち、分解するとそのピークも消失することが知られている。従って、その知見に基づき下記のようにアスタキサンチンの安定性を評価した。
表1、2に示す実施例及び比較例の油中水型乳化ファンデーションについて、遠心分離(15000rpm、10分)して粉体及び水系成分を除いた上澄み液の476nmでの吸光度を、製造直後と50℃に1ヶ月間保存後にそれぞれ測定し、吸光度の減少率をみることでアスタキサンチンの経時での安定性を評価した。下記判定基準により判定した。
判定基準:
[評点の平均点] :[判定]製造直後に対する50℃1ヶ月後の吸光度の減少率が0〜5% :◎
製造直後に対する50℃1ヶ月後の吸光度の減少率が5〜20% :○
製造直後に対する50℃1ヶ月後の吸光度の減少率が20〜50% :△
製造直後に対する50℃1ヶ月後の吸光度の減少率が50〜100%:×
[Evaluation Method 2]
Astaxanthin has an absorption peak at 476 nm, and it is known that the peak disappears upon decomposition. Therefore, the stability of astaxanthin was evaluated based on the findings as follows.
For the water-in-oil emulsified foundations of Examples and Comparative Examples shown in Tables 1 and 2, the absorbance at 476 nm of the supernatant obtained by centrifuging (15000 rpm, 10 minutes) and removing the powder and aqueous components was immediately after production. The stability of astaxanthin over time was evaluated by measuring each of the samples after storage at 50 ° C. for 1 month and observing the rate of decrease in absorbance. Judgment was made according to the following criteria.
Judgment criteria:
[Average score]: [Decision] 0 to 5% decrease in absorbance after 1 month at 50 ° C. with respect to immediately after production: ◎
The rate of decrease in absorbance after 1 month at 50 ° C. immediately after production is 5 to 20%: ○
The rate of decrease in absorbance after 1 month at 50 ° C. with respect to immediately after production is 20 to 50%: Δ
The rate of decrease in absorbance after 1 month at 50 ° C. with respect to immediately after production is 50 to 100%: ×
表1及び表2の結果から明らかなように、本発明の実施例1〜13の油中水型乳化ファンデーションは、「伸び広がりの良さ」、「化粧膜の均一性」、「アスタキサンチンの安定性」の全ての項目に優れた油中水型乳化化粧料であった。
これに対して、成分(a)の疎水化処理無機粉体のかわりに未処理の粉体を配合した比較例1はアスタキサンチンの褪色が顕著に見られるなど「アスタキサンチンの安定性」が顕著に劣り、顔料の凝集体が存在し、それにより「化粧膜の均一性」にも劣っていた。
また、成分(b)のシロキサン主鎖にオルガノポリシロキサン基と親水基がグラフトしたシリコーン系界面活性剤を配合していない比較例2、3では、製造1ヵ月後に化粧料からアスタキサンチンの一部が上澄みに分離すると共に褪色も見られるなど「アスタキサンチンの安定性」に劣っていた。更に比較例2では伸びが重く、仕上がりがムラになり、比較例3ではベタツキが生じるなど「伸び広がりの良さ」、「化粧膜の均一性」にも劣っていた。
更に、成分(c)のシリコーン油を配合していない比較例4は乳化状態が不安定になり、製造後すぐに油層と水層が分離してしまった。更にその状態では「アスタキサンチンの安定性」「伸び広がりの良さ」、「化粧膜の均一性」のいずれも顕著に劣っていた。
そして、成分(d)のトリグリセライドを配合していない比較例5は化粧料からアスタキサンチンが顕著に分離し、褪色も顕著に見られるなど「アスタキサンチンの安定性」に特に劣っていた。
As is apparent from the results of Tables 1 and 2, the water-in-oil type emulsion foundations of Examples 1 to 13 of the present invention have “good spread”, “uniformity of cosmetic film”, “stability of astaxanthin”. It was a water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic excellent in all items.
In contrast, Comparative Example 1 in which an untreated powder was blended instead of the hydrophobized inorganic powder of component (a) was markedly inferior in “staxanthin stability”, such as a marked discoloration of astaxanthin. There was an aggregate of pigments, which was inferior in “uniformity of the decorative film”.
In Comparative Examples 2 and 3 in which a silicone surfactant in which an organopolysiloxane group and a hydrophilic group are grafted to the siloxane main chain of component (b) is not blended, a part of astaxanthin is obtained from the cosmetic one month after production. It was inferior in "staxanthin stability" as it was separated into the supernatant and a fading color was observed. Furthermore, in Comparative Example 2, the elongation was heavy and the finish was uneven, and in Comparative Example 3, it was inferior in “good spread” and “uniformity of the decorative film”.
Furthermore, the comparative example 4 which did not mix | blend the silicone oil of a component (c) became unstable in an emulsified state, and the oil layer and the water layer were isolate | separated immediately after manufacture. Furthermore, in that state, all of “stability of astaxanthin”, “good spread”, and “uniformity of cosmetic film” were significantly inferior.
In Comparative Example 5 in which the triglyceride of the component (d) was not blended, astaxanthin was remarkably separated from the cosmetics, and the discoloration was also noticeable, so that “astaxanthin stability” was particularly inferior.
実施例14:油中水型乳化下地
(成分) (%)
1.ステアロイルグルタミン酸亜鉛(3%)処理酸化チタン 5
2.赤色226号 0.15
3.ステアリン酸(5%)処理黄酸化鉄 0.5
4.メチルトリメチコン 20
5.オルガノポリシロキサングラフトポリオキシアルキレン変性
シリコーン *8 3
6.パラメトキシケイ皮酸2−エチルヘキシル 5
7.ジエチルアミノヒドロキシベンゾイル
ヘキシルベンゾエート 1
8.ビスエチルヘキシルオキシフェノール
メトキシフェニルトリアジン 1
9.トリイソステアリン酸グリセリル 5
10.アスタキサンチン *3 0.005
11.シリコーン複合球状粉体 *9 3
12.メタクリル酸メチルクロスポリマー *10 3
13.ジメチルジステアリルアンモニウムヘクトライト 1
14.メチルパラベン 0.1
15.エチルアルコール 5
16.グリセリン 3
17.ローズマリーエキス 0.1
18.精製水 残量
19.香料 適量
20.塩化ナトリウム 1
21.メチレンビスベンゾトリアゾリルテトラメチル
ブチルフェノール 2
*8:KF−6038(信越化学工業社製)
*9:KSP−100(信越化学工業社製)
*10:マツモトマイクロスフェアー M−305(松本油脂製薬社製)
Example 14: Water-in-oil type emulsified base (component) (%)
1. Titanium oxide treated with zinc stearoyl glutamate (3%) 5
2. Red 226 0.15
3. Stearic acid (5%) treated yellow iron oxide 0.5
4). Methyltrimethicone 20
5. Organopolysiloxane graft polyoxyalkylene modified silicone * 8 3
6). 2-Ethylhexyl paramethoxycinnamate 5
7). Diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate 1
8). Bisethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine 1
9. Glyceryl triisostearate 5
10. Astaxanthin * 3 0.005
11. Silicone composite spherical powder * 9 3
12 Methyl methacrylate cross polymer * 10 3
13. Dimethyl distearyl ammonium hectorite 1
14 Methylparaben 0.1
15. Ethyl alcohol 5
16. Glycerin 3
17. Rosemary extract 0.1
18. Purified water remaining amount 19. Perfume proper amount20. Sodium chloride 1
21. Methylenebisbenzotriazolyltetramethylbutylphenol 2
* 8: KF-6038 (Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.)
* 9: KSP-100 (manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.)
* 10: Matsumoto Microsphere M-305 (Matsumoto Yushi Seiyaku Co., Ltd.)
(製造方法)
A:成分4〜9を80℃に加熱し、混合溶解する。
B:Aに成分1〜3、10〜13を分散し、室温に冷却する。
C:成分14〜20を混合溶解する。
D:Cに成分21を分散する。
E:BにDを加え乳化し、容器に充填して油中水型下地を得た。
本発明の実施例14の油中水型乳化下地は、「伸び広がりの良さ」、「化粧膜の均一性」、「アスタキサンチンの安定性」の全ての項目に優れたものであった。
(Production method)
A: Components 4 to 9 are heated to 80 ° C. and mixed and dissolved.
B: Components 1 to 3 and 10 to 13 are dispersed in A and cooled to room temperature.
C: Components 14 to 20 are mixed and dissolved.
D: Component 21 is dispersed in C.
E: D was added to B, emulsified, and filled into a container to obtain a water-in-oil base.
The water-in-oil type emulsified base of Example 14 of the present invention was excellent in all items of “goodness of spread”, “uniformity of cosmetic film”, and “stability of astaxanthin”.
実施例15:油中水型乳化日焼け止め
(成分) (%)
1.トリイソステアリン酸イソプロピルチタネート(4%)
処理酸化亜鉛 20
2.ジメチルポリシロキサン *11 15
3.オルガノポリシロキサングラフトポリオキシアルキレン変性
シリコーン *5 2
4.イソドデカン 10
5.トリ(カプリル/カプリン酸)グリセリル 3
6.アスタキサンチン *3 0.001
7.パラメトキシケイ皮酸2−エチルヘキシル 5
8.セスキイソステアリン酸ソルビタン 0.5
9.リン脂質 0.3
10.フェノキシエタノール 0.3
11.エチルアルコール 10
12.フェニルベンズイミダゾールスルホン酸 2
13.トリエタノールアミン 1
14.精製水 残量
*11:KF−96(2CS)(信越化学工業社製)
Example 15: Water-in-oil type emulsion sunscreen (component) (%)
1. Isopropyl stearate triisostearate (4%)
Treated zinc oxide 20
2. Dimethylpolysiloxane * 11 15
3. Organopolysiloxane graft polyoxyalkylene modified silicone * 52
4). Isododecane 10
5. Tri (capryl / capric) glyceryl 3
6). Astaxanthin * 3 0.001
7). 2-Ethylhexyl paramethoxycinnamate 5
8). Sorbitan sesquiisostearate 0.5
9. Phospholipid 0.3
10. Phenoxyethanol 0.3
11. Ethyl alcohol 10
12 Phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid 2
13. Triethanolamine 1
14 Purified water remaining amount * 11: KF-96 (2CS) (manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.)
(製造方法)
A:成分1〜3をビーズミル処理して均一に混合する。
B:Aに成分4〜9を混合する。
C:成分10〜14を混合溶解する。
D:BにCを加え乳化して、容器に充填して油中水型日焼け止めを得た。
本発明の実施例15の油中水型乳化日焼け止めは、「伸び広がりの良さ」、「化粧膜の均一性」、「アスタキサンチンの安定性」の全ての項目に優れたものであった。
(Production method)
A: Components 1 to 3 are bead-milled and mixed uniformly.
B: Components 4 to 9 are mixed with A.
C: Components 10 to 14 are mixed and dissolved.
D: C was added to B and emulsified, and filled into a container to obtain a water-in-oil sunscreen.
The water-in-oil type emulsion sunscreen of Example 15 of the present invention was excellent in all items of “goodness of spread”, “uniformity of cosmetic film”, and “stability of astaxanthin”.
実施例16:油中水型固形乳化ファンデーション
(成分) (%)
1.ジメチルポリシロキサン処理(3%)酸化チタン 12
2.ジメチルポリシロキサン処理(3%)ベンガラ 1.2
3.ジメチルポリシロキサン処理(3%)黄酸化鉄 2.8
4.ジメチルポリシロキサン処理(3%)黒酸化鉄 0.7
5.メチルフェニルポリシロキサン *12 5
6.オルガノポリシロキサングラフトポリオキシアルキレン変性
シリコーン *6 2
7.デカメチルシクロペンタシロキサン 5
8.架橋型メチルポリシロキサン/
デカメチルシクロペンタシロキサン混合物 *13 10
9.アスタキサンチン *14 0.05
10.イソノナン酸イソトリデシル 5
11.トリ2−エチルヘキサン酸グリセリル 10
12.パラメトキシケイ皮酸2−エチルヘキシル 3
13.ジイソステアリン酸ジグリセリル 2
14.セチル・ポリエーテル変性シリコーン *15 4
15.リン脂質 0.5
16.マイクロクリスタリンワックス 3
17.カルナウバワックス *16 2
18.ナイロンパウダー 3
19.シリコーン処理雲母チタン *17 2
20.メチルパラベン 0.2
21.1,3−ブチレングリコール 5
22.グリセリン 2
23.精製水 残量
*12:SH556(東レ・ダウコーニング社製)
*13:KSG−15(信越化学工業社製)
*14:アスタキサンチンとして5%を含有するアスタキサンチン液
*15:ABIL EM−90(ゴールドシュミット社製)
*16:精製カルナバワックス1号(日本ナチュラルプロダクツ社製)
*17:SA−チミロンスーパーゴールド(三好化成工業社製)
Example 16: Water-in-oil solid emulsion foundation (component) (%)
1. Dimethylpolysiloxane treatment (3%) Titanium oxide 12
2. Dimethylpolysiloxane treatment (3%) Bengala 1.2
3. Dimethylpolysiloxane treatment (3%) Yellow iron oxide 2.8
4). Dimethylpolysiloxane treatment (3%) Black iron oxide 0.7
5. Methylphenyl polysiloxane * 12 5
6). Organopolysiloxane grafted polyoxyalkylene modified silicone * 62
7). Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane 5
8). Cross-linked methylpolysiloxane /
Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane mixture * 13 10
9. Astaxanthin * 14 0.05
10. Isotridecyl isononanoate 5
11. Glyceryl tri-2-ethylhexanoate 10
12 2-Ethylhexyl paramethoxycinnamate 3
13. Diglyceryl diisostearate 2
14 Cetyl polyether-modified silicone * 15 4
15. Phospholipid 0.5
16. Microcrystalline wax 3
17. Carnauba wax * 16 2
18. Nylon powder 3
19. Silicone-treated mica titanium * 17 2
20. Methylparaben 0.2
21.1,3-butylene glycol 5
22. Glycerin 2
23. Purified water remaining * 12: SH556 (manufactured by Dow Corning Toray)
* 13: KSG-15 (manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.)
* 14: Astaxanthin solution containing 5% astaxanthin * 15: ABIL EM-90 (manufactured by Goldschmidt)
* 16: Refined carnauba wax No. 1 (manufactured by Nippon Natural Products)
* 17: SA-Timilon Super Gold (manufactured by Miyoshi Kasei Kogyo Co., Ltd.)
(製造方法)
A:成分1〜6をローラー処理して均一に混合する。
B:成分10〜17を90℃に加熱溶解する。
C:BにAと成分7〜9、18、19を混合する。
D:成分20〜23を混合溶解する。
E:CにDを加え乳化する。
F:Eを80℃に溶解し、金皿に流し込んで充填し、油中水型固形ファンデーションを得た。
本発明の実施例16の油中水型乳化固形ファンデーションは、「伸び広がりの良さ」、「化粧膜の均一性」、「アスタキサンチンの安定性」の全ての項目に優れたものであった。
(Production method)
A: Components 1 to 6 are roller-processed and mixed uniformly.
B: Components 10 to 17 are heated and dissolved at 90 ° C.
C: A and components 7 to 9, 18, and 19 are mixed with B.
D: Components 20 to 23 are mixed and dissolved.
E: D is added to C and emulsified.
F: E was dissolved at 80 ° C., poured into a metal pan and filled to obtain a water-in-oil solid foundation.
The water-in-oil type emulsified solid foundation of Example 16 of the present invention was excellent in all items of “goodness of spread”, “uniformity of cosmetic film”, and “stability of astaxanthin”.
実施例17:油中水型乳化頬紅
(成分) (%)
1.アモジメチコン(3%)処理酸化チタン 3
2.赤色226号 0.35
3.黄色4号 0.3
4.ジメチルポリシロキサン(3%)処理合成金雲母 3.35
5.オルガノポリシロキサングラフトポリオキシアルキレン変性
シリコーン *8 3
6.リンゴ酸ジ2−エチルヘキシル 5
7.ジ2−エチルヘキサン酸ネオペンチルグリコール 3
8.デカメチルシクロペンタシロキサン 15
9.トリパーム油脂肪酸グリセリル 5
10.アスタキサンチン *3 0.001
11.ステアリン酸亜鉛(2%)処理
合成金雲母チタン *18 5
12.ナイロンパウダー *19 3
13.ジメチルジステアリルアンモニウムヘクトライト 1
14.メチルパラベン 0.2
15.エチルアルコール 5
16.グリセリン 5
17.精製水 残量
18.香料 適量
19.塩化ナトリウム 0.3
*18:HELIOS R100(トピー工業社製)に処理したもの
*19:SP−500(東レ社製)
Example 17: Water-in-oil emulsified blusher (component) (%)
1. Amodimethicone (3%) treated titanium oxide 3
2. Red No. 226 0.35
3. Yellow No. 4 0.3
4). Dimethylpolysiloxane (3%) treated synthetic phlogopite 3.35
5. Organopolysiloxane graft polyoxyalkylene modified silicone * 8 3
6). Di-2-ethylhexyl malate 5
7). Di-2-ethylhexanoic acid neopentyl glycol 3
8). Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane 15
9. Tripalm oil fatty acid glyceryl 5
10. Astaxanthin * 3 0.001
11. Zinc stearate (2%) treated synthetic phlogopite titanium * 185
12 Nylon powder * 19 3
13. Dimethyl distearyl ammonium hectorite 1
14 Methylparaben 0.2
15. Ethyl alcohol 5
16. Glycerin 5
17. Purified water remaining amount 18. Perfume proper amount19. Sodium chloride 0.3
* 18: Processed by HELIOS R100 (Topy Industries, Ltd.) * 19: SP-500 (Toray Industries, Inc.)
(製造方法)
A:成分1〜6をローラー処理して均一に混合する。
B:Aに成分7〜13混合する。
C:成分14〜19を混合溶解する。
D:BにCを加え乳化し、容器に充填して油中水型乳化頬紅を得た。
本発明の実施例17の油中水型乳化頬紅は、「伸び広がりの良さ」、「化粧膜の均一性」、「アスタキサンチンの安定性」の全ての項目に優れたものであった。
(Production method)
A: Components 1 to 6 are roller-processed and mixed uniformly.
B: Components 7 to 13 are mixed with A.
C: Components 14 to 19 are mixed and dissolved.
D: C was added to B and emulsified, and filled into a container to obtain a water-in-oil emulsified blusher.
The water-in-oil type emulsified blusher of Example 17 of the present invention was excellent in all items of “goodness of spreading”, “uniformity of cosmetic film”, and “stability of astaxanthin”.
Claims (7)
(a)疎水化処理無機粉体 1〜40質量%
(b)シロキサン主鎖にオルガノポリシロキサン基と
親水基がグラフトしたシリコーン系界面活性剤 0.5〜10質量%
(c)シリコーン油 1〜50質量%
(d)トリグリセライド 0.1〜15質量%
(e)アスタキサンチン 0.00001〜0.1質量%
を配合することを特徴とする油中水型乳化化粧料。 The following components (a) to (e);
(A) Hydrophobized inorganic powder 1-40% by mass
(B) 0.5-10% by mass of a silicone surfactant in which an organopolysiloxane group and a hydrophilic group are grafted to the siloxane main chain
(C) Silicone oil 1-50 mass%
(D) 0.1-15 % by mass of triglyceride
(E) Astaxanthin 0.0001 to 0.1% by mass
A water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic characterized by comprising
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EP2997955B1 (en) | 2013-05-15 | 2017-03-01 | FUJIFILM Corporation | Oil-in-water cosmetic |
WO2014185316A1 (en) | 2013-05-15 | 2014-11-20 | 富士フイルム株式会社 | Water-in-oil cosmetic |
JP6480216B2 (en) * | 2014-03-10 | 2019-03-06 | 株式会社コーセー | Carotenoid-containing composition, carotenoid degradation inhibitor, and carotenoid degradation inhibition method |
US9186305B1 (en) * | 2014-05-19 | 2015-11-17 | Shiseido Company, Ltd. | Sunscreen products in which excessive whiteness due to titanium dioxide and zinc oxide is visually masked upon skin application |
JP7016656B2 (en) * | 2016-09-28 | 2022-02-07 | 株式会社コーセー | Multi-layered cosmetics |
CN110366410B (en) * | 2017-02-28 | 2022-08-30 | 富士胶片株式会社 | Oil-in-water type cosmetic |
JP6765342B2 (en) * | 2017-05-29 | 2020-10-07 | 株式会社ファンケル | Water-in-oil solid emulsified cosmetics |
JP2019073460A (en) * | 2017-10-13 | 2019-05-16 | 花王株式会社 | Production method of water-in-oil type emulsion cosmetic |
JP7351622B2 (en) * | 2018-02-09 | 2023-09-27 | 株式会社コーセー | emulsified cosmetics |
DE102018107718A1 (en) * | 2018-03-29 | 2019-10-02 | Ultrasun Ag | A process for the preparation of a starting formulation for a dermatological sunscreen composition and for the preparation of a dermatological sunscreen composition |
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