JP2009298751A - Solid water-in-oil type emulsion cosmetic - Google Patents

Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a solid water-in-oil type emulsion cosmetic that has softness during application, excellent a finish effect and excellent durability of cosmetic effect. <P>SOLUTION: The solid water-in-oil type emulsion cosmetic comprises (A) a fluorine-polyether-co-modified silicone represented by general formula (1), (B) a sorbitan fatty acid ester and/or a polyglycerol fatty acid ester, (C) a polytetrafluoroethylene, (D) a volatile silicon oil and (E) an oil agent solid at 25°C. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2010,JPO&INPIT

Description

  The present invention relates to solid water-in-oil emulsified cosmetics such as eye shadows, blushers, and foundations. More specifically, the present invention is excellent in smoothness at the time of application, finishing effect, and durability of cosmetic effect. The present invention relates to a solid water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic.

  Conventionally, oily solid cosmetics are widely used for lipsticks, eye shadows, eyeliners, blushers, foundations and the like because of their excellent adhesion, water resistance and covering power. However, oily solid cosmetics mainly composed of an oily base material have drawbacks such as being unable to obtain a smooth application feel, feeling sticky and oily, etc., and thus being excellent in smoothness during application and refreshing. The development of solid cosmetics with a good feeling of use has been desired. Therefore, in order to realize such a feeling of use, a solid water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic containing water and a spherical powder has been developed (see Patent Document 1). However, although there is no stickiness or oiliness and a refreshing feeling of use is obtained, there are drawbacks such as dry skin, a powdery feeling of use, and poor durability of the makeup effect. It was.

  Therefore, it has been desired to develop a solid cosmetic material that can be realized at a higher level with respect to smoothness and finish at the time of application and sustainability of the cosmetic effect.

Japanese Patent No. 2996410

  Under such circumstances, an object of the present invention is to provide a solid water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic that is excellent in smoothness at the time of application, a finishing effect, and has a long-lasting cosmetic effect.

The present invention that achieves this object includes the following components (A) to (E):
(A) Fluorine polyether co-modified silicone represented by general formula (1)

（但し、ｌ、ｍ、ｎは整数であって、ｌ＝０〜５００、ｍ＝１〜５００、ｎ＝１〜５００であり、Ｒ^１は同種、異種の非置換若しくは置換の炭素数１〜２０のアルキル基またはアリール基であり、Ｒ^２は炭素数１〜１０のフッ素置換アルキル基であり、Ｒ^３は−Ｃ_ｐＨ_２ｐＯ（Ｃ_２Ｈ_４Ｏ）_ａ（Ｃ_３Ｈ_６Ｏ）_ｂＲ^５で示されるポリオキシアルキレン基であり、Ｒ^４はＲ^１、Ｒ^２またはＲ^３のいずれかであり、Ｒ^５は水素原子、炭素数１〜５のアルキル基またはアセチル基であり、ａ、ｂ、ｐは整数であって、ａ＝０〜１００、ｂ＝０〜１００、ａ＋ｂは１以上であり、ｐ＝２〜６である。）
（Ｂ）ソルビタン脂肪酸エステル及び／又はポリグリセリン脂肪酸エステル
（Ｃ）ポリテトラフルオロエチレン
（Ｄ）揮発性シリコーン油
（Ｅ）２５℃で固形状の油剤
を含有することを特徴とする固形状油中水型乳化化粧料である。

(However, l, m, and n are integers, and l = 0 to 500, m = 1 to 500, and n = ^{1 to} 500, and R ¹ is the same or different, unsubstituted or substituted carbon number 1 to 500. 20 is an alkyl group or an aryl group, R ² is a fluorine-substituted alkyl group having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, and R ³ is —C _p H _2p O (C ₂ H ₄ O) _a (C ₃ H ₆ O). _b R is a polyoxyalkylene group represented by ^{5, R 4} is any of ^R 1, ^{R 2} or ^{R 3, R 5} is a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group or an acetyl group having 1 to 5 carbon atoms, a, b and p are integers, a = 0 to 100, b = 0 to 100, a + b is 1 or more, and p = 2 to 6.)
(B) Sorbitan fatty acid ester and / or polyglycerol fatty acid ester (C) Polytetrafluoroethylene (D) Volatile silicone oil (E) Solid oil-in-water characterized by containing a solid oil agent at 25 ° C Type emulsified cosmetic.

  According to the present invention, it is possible to provide a solid water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic that is excellent in smoothness and finish effect at the time of application, and has a long-lasting cosmetic effect.

  Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.

The component (A) fluorine polyether co-modified silicone used in the present invention is represented by the above general formula (1), and the R ¹ group, R ² group, R ³ group, and R ⁵ group are specifically described. Include the following: As R ¹ group, alkyl group such as methyl group, ethyl group, propyl group, pentyl group, hexyl group, heptyl group, octyl group, nonyl group, decyl group, cycloalkyl group such as cyclopentyl group, cyclohexyl group, phenyl group And aryl groups such as a tolyl group, preferably a methyl group.

Examples of the R ² group include a trifluoropropyl group, a nanofluorohexyl group, a heptadecafluorodecyl group, and the like, preferably a trifluoropropyl group.

In the R ³ group, as consisting only of ethylene oxide, —C ₃ H ₆ O (C ₂ H ₄ O) ₅ H, —C ₃ H ₆ O (C ₂ H ₄ O) ₁₀ H, —C ₃ H _{6 O (C 2 H 4 O)} 20 H, -C 3 H 6 O (C 2 H 4 O) 50 H, -C 3 H 6 O (C 2 H 4 O) 100 H, -C 3 H 6 O ( _{C 2 H 4 O) 5 CH} 3, -C 3 H 6 O (C 2 H 4 O) 10 C 2 H 5, -C 3 H 6 O (C 2 H 4 O) 20 C 3 H 7, -C _{3 H 6 O (C 2 H} 4 O) 50 C 4 H 9, -C 3 H 6 O (C 2 H 4 O) 100 C 5 H 11, -CH 2 CH (CH 3) CH 2 O (C 2 _{H 4 O) 3 H, -CH} 2 CH 2 CH (CH 3) O (C 2 H 4 O) 10 CH 3, -CH 2 CH 2 C (CH 3) 2 O _{C 2 H 4 O) 20 C} 4 H 9 and the like.

Also as comprising only propylene _{oxide, -C 3 H 6 O (C} 3 H 6 O) 5 H, -C 3 H 6 O (C 3 H 6 O) 10 H, -C 3 H 6 O (C 3 _{H 6 O) 20 H, -C} 3 H 6 O (C 3 H 6 O) 50 H, -C 3 H 6 O (C 3 H 6 O) 100 H, -C 3 H 6 O (C 3 H 6 _{O) 5 CH 3, -C 3} H 6 O (C 3 H 6 O) 10 C 2 H 5, -C 3 H 6 O (C 3 H 6 O) 20 C 3 H 7, -C 3 H 6 O _{(C 3 H 6 O) 50} C 4 H 9, -C 3 H 6 O (C 3 H 6 O) 100 C 5 H 11, -CH 2 CH (CH 3) CH 2 O (C 3 H 6 O) _{3 H, -CH 2 CH 2 CH} (CH 3) O (C 3 H 6 O) 10 CH 3, -CH 2 CH 2 C (CH 3) 2 O (C 3 H _O) 20 _C 4 _{H 9} and the like.

Ethylene oxide, the copolymer of propylene _{oxide, -C 3 H 6 O (C} 2 H 4 O) 5 (C 3 H 6 O) 5 H, -C 3 H 6 O (C 2 H 4 O) 20 _{(C 3 H 6 O) 20} H, -C 3 H 6 O (C 2 H 4 O) 10 (C 3 H 6 O) 20 CH 3, -C 3 H 6 O (C 2 H 4 O) 20 ( _{C 3 H 6 O) 10 CH} 3, -CH 2 CH (CH 3) CH 2 O (C 2 H 4 O) 50 (C 3 H 6 O) 20 C 4 H 9, -CH 2 CH 2 CH (CH _{3) O (C 2 H 4} O) 10 (C 3 H 6 O) 100 H, -CH 2 CH 2 C (CH 3) 2 O (C 2 H 4 O) 100 (C 3 H 6 O) 10 CH ₃ etc. are mentioned. Here, the ethylene oxide unit and the propylene oxide unit may be block copolymerization or random copolymerization.

Examples of the R ⁵ group include a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group such as a methyl group, an ethyl group, a propyl group, a butyl group, and a pentyl group, or an acetyl group.

  Specific examples of component (A) fluoropolyether co-modified silicone include FPD-6131 (PEG-8 trifluoropropyl dimethicone copolymer, manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.), which can be suitably used in the present invention. it can.

  The blending amount of component (A) fluoropolyether co-modified silicone is preferably 0.1 to 5.0% by mass, more preferably 0.5 to 3.0% by mass in the total composition. If the blending amount is less than 0.1% by mass, the function as an emulsifier and the long-lasting effect of the cosmetic effect may not be sufficiently expressed. There are cases where it is not preferable in terms of usability, for example, the smoothness of time decreases.

In the solid water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic composition of the present invention, component (B) sorbitan fatty acid ester and / or polyglycerin fatty acid ester is blended. From the viewpoint of emulsion stability, a lipophilic surfactant having an HLB value of 8 or less. The use of agents is preferred. Specifically, sorbitan monostearate, sorbitan sesquistearate, sorbitan tristearate, sorbitan monooleate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan trioleate, sorbitan monoisostearate, sorbitan sesquiisostearate, And polyglycerin fatty acid esters such as diglyceryl diisostearate and diglyceryl dioleate. Among these, sorbitan monoisostearate and sorbitan monooleate are preferable from the viewpoint of emulsion stability, and sorbitan monoisostearate is particularly preferable.
In addition, the HLB value in this invention means what is calculated by the following Kawakami formula (I).
HLB = 7 + 11.7 log (Mw / Mo) (I)
Here, in the formula (I), Mw represents the molecular weight of the hydrophilic base and Mo represents the molecular weight of the lipophilic base.

  As for the compounding quantity of a component (B) sorbitan fatty acid ester and / or polyglycerin fatty acid ester, 1-3.5 mass% is preferable in the whole composition. When the blending amount is less than 1% by mass, the emulsion stability may not be sufficient. When the blending amount exceeds 3.5% by mass, the smoothness at the time of application may be impaired.

  If the component (C) used in the present invention is polytetrafluoroethylene usually used in cosmetics, there is no problem, and specific commercial products include MICROSLIP 519, 519L (manufactured by MICRO POWDERS).

  1-20 mass% is preferable in the whole composition, and, as for the compounding quantity of a component (C) polytetrafluoroethylene, 3-15 mass% is more preferable. When the blending amount is less than 1% by mass, the smoothness at the time of application may not be sufficiently obtained. When the blending amount exceeds 20% by mass, the smoothness at the time of coating is impaired, resulting in a powdery finish. In some cases, it is not preferable in terms of usability.

As the component (D) volatile silicone oil used in the present invention, any volatile silicone oil that is volatile at room temperature (25 ° C.) and generally used in cosmetics can be used. Is a cyclic silicone having a polymerization degree of 3 to 7 such as linear dimethylpolysiloxane having a polymerization degree of 0 to 5, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, or the like, represented by the general formula [(CH ₃ ) ₃ SiO] ₃ SiCH ₃ , methyltrimethicone represented by general formula [(CH ₃ ) ₃ SiO] ₄ Si, and tetrakistrimethylsiloxysilane.

  15-50 mass% is preferable in the whole composition, and, as for the compounding quantity of a component (D) volatile silicone oil, 20-40 mass% is more preferable. If the amount is less than 15% by mass, the smoothness at the time of application may not be sufficient, and if it exceeds 50% by mass, the emulsion stability of the preparation may be impaired, which may be undesirable.

  Component (E) used in the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it is a solid oil at 25 ° C., and is usually used in cosmetics, for example, paraffin, ceresin, synthetic hydrocarbon wax, Fischer-Tropsch wax, microcrystalline. Examples include wax, polyethylene wax, ethylene propylene copolymer, candelilla wax, beeswax, carnauba wax and the like.

  Component (E) The amount of the solid oil agent at 25 ° C. is preferably 3 to 15% by mass in the total composition. If it is less than 3% by mass, it may be unfavorable in terms of storage stability and usability, and if it exceeds 15% by mass, it may be unfavorable in terms of usability, such as loss of smoothness during application.

  In the solid water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic composition of the present invention, phytosteryl oleate, squalane, glyceryl tri (capryl / capry) ate, octyldodecanol, lauroyl, in addition to the above components, within the range not impairing the object of the present invention. Oil components such as diglutamate (phytosteryl / octyldodecyl), isononyl isononanoate, octyl hydroxystearate, methylphenylpolysiloxane, isododecane, etc., inorganic coloring pigments such as titanium oxide and iron oxide, red 201, red 202, yellow 4 Organic pigments such as No. and its lake pigments, mica titanium, hydrophobized titanium mica, bengara-coated mica titanium, carmine-coated mica titanium, titanium oxide-coated glass flakes, polyethylene terephthalate / polymethylmethacrylate laminated film powder, etc. Mica, ta , Kaolin, nylon powder, silica beads, cross-linked silicone powder, methylsiloxane network polymer and other powder components, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, ethanol and other alcohols, resins, coating agents, thickening Agents, preservatives, antioxidants, fragrances, ultraviolet absorbers, vitamins, plant extracts and the like can be appropriately blended.

  The form of the solid water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic of the present invention can be widely used as various cosmetic base materials. For example, it is particularly suitable for eye shadow, blusher, foundation and the like.

  EXAMPLES Next, although an Example is given and this invention is demonstrated further in detail, this invention is not limited to these. In addition, the numerical value in a table | surface represents content (mass%). Prior to the examples, the evaluation methods employed in each example will be described.

(1) Usage characteristic evaluation test method We asked 20 female panelists to apply the cosmetics of the examples and comparative examples, and evaluated the following evaluation items from 5 points to 1 point. The higher the rating, the better. And the average score of the scores given by 20 people was shown as a result according to the following evaluation criteria.

<Evaluation items>
・ Touch feel (smoothness)
・ Finish ・ Durability of makeup effect after 3 hours

<Evaluation criteria>
◎: Average point is 4.5 points or more ○: Average point is 3.5 points or more and less than 4.5 points △: Average point is 2.5 points or more and less than 3.5 points ×: Average point is 2.5 Less than

(2) Stability test method over time The cosmetics of Examples and Comparative Examples were each placed in a 45 ° C. thermostatic bath and observed after 3 months. The case where some oil floating (perspiration, separation) was observed was indicated as “Δ”, and the case where significant oil floating (perspiration, separation) was observed was indicated as “x”.

<Example 1, Comparative Examples 1-3 (eye shadow)>
(Production method)
Components 1 to 7 are uniformly dissolved and mixed, premixed components 8 to 15 are added, and the mixture is dispersed at 80 ° C. with a homomixer. Further, a mixture of 16 to 20 previously heated to 80 ° C. is added and emulsified and dispersed. The container was then filled and cooled to room temperature to obtain the desired solid water-in-oil emulsified eyeshadow.

As shown in Table 1, Example 1 of the present invention was clearly superior to those of Comparative Examples 1 to 3 in the feel and finish upon application and the sustainability of the cosmetic effect.

<Example 2 (blusher)>
When the blusher of the prescription shown below was manufactured and evaluated with respect to the evaluation items, all items were satisfactory.

(Ingredient) (mass%)
1. Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane 25.0
2. Methylphenylpolysiloxane 5.0
3. Diglyceryl diisostearate 3.0
4). Fluoropolyether co-modified silicone * 2 2.0
5. Ethylene propylene copolymer 5.0
6). Red 226 0.8
7). Bengala 1.0
8). Yellow iron oxide 2.0
9. Titanium oxide 3.0
10. Polytetrafluoroethylene * 4 6.0
11. Nylon powder 3.0
12 Kaolin 5.0
13. Plate-like barium sulfate 8.0
14 Mica titanium 1.5
15. Purified water residue 16. Glycerin 2.0
17. Maltitol (75% aqueous solution) 1.0
18. Phenoxyethanol 0.3

* 2 FPD-6131 (manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.)
* 4 MICROSLIP 519L (manufactured by MICRO POWDERS)

(Production method)
Components 1-5 are uniformly dissolved and mixed, premixed components 6-14 are added, and the mixture is dispersed at 80 ° C. with a homomixer. Further, a mixture of 15 to 18 previously heated to 80 ° C. is added and emulsified and dispersed. The container was then filled and cooled to room temperature to obtain the desired solid water-in-oil emulsified blusher.

<Example 3 (Foundation)>
When the foundation of the prescription shown below was manufactured and the said evaluation item was evaluated, it was a favorable thing in any item.

(Ingredient) (mass%)
1. Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane 15.0
2. Methyltrimethicone 8.0
3. Dimethylpolysiloxane (20cs) 4.0
4). Liquid paraffin 2.0
5. Sorbitan monoisostearate 2.0
6). Fluoropolyether co-modified silicone * 2 2.5
7). Polyethylene wax 4.0
8). Microcrystalline wax 2.0
9. Bengala 0.6
10. Yellow iron oxide 1.6
11. Black iron oxide 0.2
12 Titanium oxide 10.0
13. Polytetrafluoroethylene * 4 8.0
14 Silica beads 3.0
15. Talc 5.0
16. Sericite 3.0
17. Purified water residue 18. Dipropylene glycol 2.0
19. Phenoxyethanol 0.2
20. Sodium dehydroacetate 0.1

* 2 FPD-6131 (manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.)
* 4 MICROSLIP 519L (manufactured by MICRO POWDERS)

(Production method)
Components 1 to 8 are uniformly dissolved and mixed, premixed components 9 to 16 are added, and the mixture is dispersed at 80 ° C. with a homomixer. Further, a mixture of 17 to 20 previously heated to 80 ° C. is added and emulsified and dispersed. The container was then filled and cooled to room temperature to obtain the desired solid water-in-oil emulsion foundation.

  As described above, according to the present invention, it is possible to provide a solid water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic that is excellent in smoothness at the time of application, a finishing effect, and has a long-lasting cosmetic effect.

Claims (1)

The following components (A) to (E):
(A) Fluorine polyether co-modified silicone represented by general formula (1)

(However, l, m, and n are integers, and l = 0 to 500, m = 1 to 500, and n = ^{1 to} 500, and R ¹ is the same or different, unsubstituted or substituted carbon number 1 to 500. 20 is an alkyl group or an aryl group, R ² is a fluorine-substituted alkyl group having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, and R ³ is —C _p H _2p O (C ₂ H ₄ O) _a (C ₃ H ₆ O). _b R is a polyoxyalkylene group represented by ^{5, R 4} is any of ^R 1, ^{R 2} or ^{R 3, R 5} is a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group or an acetyl group having 1 to 5 carbon atoms, a, b and p are integers, a = 0 to 100, b = 0 to 100, a + b is 1 or more, and p = 2 to 6.)
(B) Sorbitan fatty acid ester and / or polyglycerol fatty acid ester (C) Polytetrafluoroethylene (D) Volatile silicone oil (E) Solid oil-in-water characterized by containing a solid oil agent at 25 ° C Type emulsified cosmetic.