JP5683158B2 - 乳化化粧料 - Google Patents
乳化化粧料 Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- JP5683158B2 JP5683158B2 JP2010161187A JP2010161187A JP5683158B2 JP 5683158 B2 JP5683158 B2 JP 5683158B2 JP 2010161187 A JP2010161187 A JP 2010161187A JP 2010161187 A JP2010161187 A JP 2010161187A JP 5683158 B2 JP5683158 B2 JP 5683158B2
- Authority
- JP
- Japan
- Prior art keywords
- acid
- oil
- emulsified cosmetic
- cosmetic
- alcohol
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
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- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 title claims description 54
- 239000003921 oil Substances 0.000 claims description 52
- 239000007787 solid Substances 0.000 claims description 27
- -1 hydroxystearic acid ester Chemical class 0.000 claims description 23
- KIHBGTRZFAVZRV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-Hydroxyoctadecanoic acid Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)C(O)=O KIHBGTRZFAVZRV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 15
- 150000004665 fatty acids Chemical class 0.000 claims description 15
- 235000014113 dietary fatty acids Nutrition 0.000 claims description 14
- 229930195729 fatty acid Natural products 0.000 claims description 14
- 239000000194 fatty acid Substances 0.000 claims description 14
- 125000004432 carbon atom Chemical group C* 0.000 claims description 12
- LFQSCWFLJHTTHZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethanol Chemical compound CCO LFQSCWFLJHTTHZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 11
- 150000003839 salts Chemical class 0.000 claims description 9
- 229920006395 saturated elastomer Polymers 0.000 claims description 9
- 239000001993 wax Substances 0.000 claims description 9
- ULQISTXYYBZJSJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 12-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCC(O)CCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O ULQISTXYYBZJSJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 7
- 239000002253 acid Substances 0.000 claims description 7
- 150000002148 esters Chemical class 0.000 claims description 7
- 239000004359 castor oil Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- 235000019438 castor oil Nutrition 0.000 claims description 6
- ZEMPKEQAKRGZGQ-XOQCFJPHSA-N glycerol triricinoleate Natural products CCCCCC[C@@H](O)CC=CCCCCCCCC(=O)OC[C@@H](COC(=O)CCCCCCCC=CC[C@@H](O)CCCCCC)OC(=O)CCCCCCCC=CC[C@H](O)CCCCCC ZEMPKEQAKRGZGQ-XOQCFJPHSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
- 150000001298 alcohols Chemical class 0.000 claims description 5
- 150000002430 hydrocarbons Chemical group 0.000 claims description 5
- 150000005846 sugar alcohols Chemical class 0.000 claims description 5
- LBPNCQGSZHRGME-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2,2,3,3,4,4-hexahydroxyoctadecanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)(O)C(O)(O)C(O)(O)C(O)=O LBPNCQGSZHRGME-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- WHUUTDBJXJRKMK-UHFFFAOYSA-N Glutamic acid Natural products OC(=O)C(N)CCC(O)=O WHUUTDBJXJRKMK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- HVYWMOMLDIMFJA-DPAQBDIFSA-N cholesterol Chemical compound C1C=C2C[C@@H](O)CC[C@]2(C)[C@@H]2[C@@H]1[C@@H]1CC[C@H]([C@H](C)CCCC(C)C)[C@@]1(C)CC2 HVYWMOMLDIMFJA-DPAQBDIFSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- 235000013922 glutamic acid Nutrition 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000004220 glutamic acid Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- 125000002252 acyl group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 3
- 150000002016 disaccharides Chemical class 0.000 claims description 3
- 150000002170 ethers Chemical class 0.000 claims description 3
- 150000002440 hydroxy compounds Chemical class 0.000 claims description 3
- 230000003712 anti-aging effect Effects 0.000 claims description 2
- 235000012000 cholesterol Nutrition 0.000 claims description 2
- 150000002772 monosaccharides Chemical class 0.000 claims description 2
- 125000000291 glutamic acid group Chemical group N[C@@H](CCC(O)=O)C(=O)* 0.000 claims 1
- 235000019198 oils Nutrition 0.000 description 47
- NOPFSRXAKWQILS-UHFFFAOYSA-N docosan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO NOPFSRXAKWQILS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 10
- GLDOVTGHNKAZLK-UHFFFAOYSA-N octadecan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO GLDOVTGHNKAZLK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 10
- 239000012071 phase Substances 0.000 description 10
- POULHZVOKOAJMA-UHFFFAOYSA-N dodecanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O POULHZVOKOAJMA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 8
- LYCAIKOWRPUZTN-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethylene glycol Chemical compound OCCO LYCAIKOWRPUZTN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 6
- PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Glycerine Chemical compound OCC(O)CO PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 6
- DNIAPMSPPWPWGF-UHFFFAOYSA-N Propylene glycol Chemical compound CC(O)CO DNIAPMSPPWPWGF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 6
- 229940024606 amino acid Drugs 0.000 description 6
- 235000001014 amino acid Nutrition 0.000 description 6
- BXWNKGSJHAJOGX-UHFFFAOYSA-N hexadecan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO BXWNKGSJHAJOGX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 6
- 239000007788 liquid Substances 0.000 description 6
- HLZKNKRTKFSKGZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N tetradecan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCO HLZKNKRTKFSKGZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 6
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- 150000001413 amino acids Chemical class 0.000 description 5
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- 239000011248 coating agent Substances 0.000 description 5
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- 239000006071 cream Substances 0.000 description 5
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- 238000004945 emulsification Methods 0.000 description 5
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- QIQXTHQIDYTFRH-UHFFFAOYSA-N octadecanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O QIQXTHQIDYTFRH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 5
- OQCDKBAXFALNLD-UHFFFAOYSA-N octadecanoic acid Natural products CCCCCCCC(C)CCCCCCCCC(O)=O OQCDKBAXFALNLD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 5
- 229920002545 silicone oil Polymers 0.000 description 5
- 239000008117 stearic acid Substances 0.000 description 5
- HDTRYLNUVZCQOY-UHFFFAOYSA-N α-D-glucopyranosyl-α-D-glucopyranoside Natural products OC1C(O)C(O)C(CO)OC1OC1C(O)C(O)C(O)C(CO)O1 HDTRYLNUVZCQOY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- DHMQDGOQFOQNFH-UHFFFAOYSA-N Glycine Chemical compound NCC(O)=O DHMQDGOQFOQNFH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 239000005639 Lauric acid Substances 0.000 description 4
- UKMSUNONTOPOIO-UHFFFAOYSA-N docosanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O UKMSUNONTOPOIO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- IPCSVZSSVZVIGE-UHFFFAOYSA-N hexadecanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O IPCSVZSSVZVIGE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- PRAKJMSDJKAYCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N squalane Chemical compound CC(C)CCCC(C)CCCC(C)CCCCC(C)CCCC(C)CCCC(C)C PRAKJMSDJKAYCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- TUNFSRHWOTWDNC-HKGQFRNVSA-N tetradecanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCC[14C](O)=O TUNFSRHWOTWDNC-HKGQFRNVSA-N 0.000 description 4
- DCXXMTOCNZCJGO-UHFFFAOYSA-N tristearoylglycerol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCC(OC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC)COC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC DCXXMTOCNZCJGO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 239000004475 Arginine Substances 0.000 description 3
- FBPFZTCFMRRESA-KVTDHHQDSA-N D-Mannitol Chemical compound OC[C@@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H](O)CO FBPFZTCFMRRESA-KVTDHHQDSA-N 0.000 description 3
- OKKJLVBELUTLKV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Methanol Chemical compound OC OKKJLVBELUTLKV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 235000019482 Palm oil Nutrition 0.000 description 3
- PYMYPHUHKUWMLA-UHFFFAOYSA-N arabinose Natural products OCC(O)C(O)C(O)C=O PYMYPHUHKUWMLA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- ODKSFYDXXFIFQN-UHFFFAOYSA-N arginine Natural products OC(=O)C(N)CCCNC(N)=N ODKSFYDXXFIFQN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 229960000541 cetyl alcohol Drugs 0.000 description 3
- 239000003240 coconut oil Substances 0.000 description 3
- 235000019864 coconut oil Nutrition 0.000 description 3
- 229920001577 copolymer Polymers 0.000 description 3
- MTHSVFCYNBDYFN-UHFFFAOYSA-N diethylene glycol Chemical compound OCCOCCO MTHSVFCYNBDYFN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- SZXQTJUDPRGNJN-UHFFFAOYSA-N dipropylene glycol Chemical compound OCCCOCCCO SZXQTJUDPRGNJN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 239000003995 emulsifying agent Substances 0.000 description 3
- 239000000839 emulsion Substances 0.000 description 3
- 238000011156 evaluation Methods 0.000 description 3
- 238000009472 formulation Methods 0.000 description 3
- 235000011187 glycerol Nutrition 0.000 description 3
- VQHSOMBJVWLPSR-WUJBLJFYSA-N maltitol Chemical compound OC[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@@H]([C@H](O)CO)O[C@H]1O[C@H](CO)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H]1O VQHSOMBJVWLPSR-WUJBLJFYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- HEBKCHPVOIAQTA-UHFFFAOYSA-N meso ribitol Natural products OCC(O)C(O)C(O)CO HEBKCHPVOIAQTA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 229940043348 myristyl alcohol Drugs 0.000 description 3
- 239000002540 palm oil Substances 0.000 description 3
- 235000011837 pasties Nutrition 0.000 description 3
- 229940045898 sodium stearoyl glutamate Drugs 0.000 description 3
- KDHFCTLPQJQDQI-BDQAORGHSA-M sodium;(4s)-4-amino-5-octadecanoyloxy-5-oxopentanoate Chemical compound [Na+].CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OC(=O)[C@@H](N)CCC([O-])=O KDHFCTLPQJQDQI-BDQAORGHSA-M 0.000 description 3
- WQZGKKKJIJFFOK-SVZMEOIVSA-N (+)-Galactose Chemical compound OC[C@H]1OC(O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H]1O WQZGKKKJIJFFOK-SVZMEOIVSA-N 0.000 description 2
- PUPZLCDOIYMWBV-UHFFFAOYSA-N (+/-)-1,3-Butanediol Chemical compound CC(O)CCO PUPZLCDOIYMWBV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- KBPLFHHGFOOTCA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1-Octanol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCO KBPLFHHGFOOTCA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- OWEGMIWEEQEYGQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 100676-05-9 Natural products OC1C(O)C(O)C(CO)OC1OCC1C(O)C(O)C(O)C(OC2C(OC(O)C(O)C2O)CO)O1 OWEGMIWEEQEYGQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- XDOFQFKRPWOURC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 16-methylheptadecanoic acid Chemical compound CC(C)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O XDOFQFKRPWOURC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- FLPJVCMIKUWSDR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-(4-formylphenoxy)acetamide Chemical compound NC(=O)COC1=CC=C(C=O)C=C1 FLPJVCMIKUWSDR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- QGZKDVFQNNGYKY-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ammonia Chemical compound N QGZKDVFQNNGYKY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 235000021357 Behenic acid Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- SGPMPZKXUXPIBJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N C(C)C(CCCCC(=O)OCC(O)CO)(CC)CC Chemical compound C(C)C(CCCCC(=O)OCC(O)CO)(CC)CC SGPMPZKXUXPIBJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- FBPFZTCFMRRESA-FSIIMWSLSA-N D-Glucitol Natural products OC[C@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)CO FBPFZTCFMRRESA-FSIIMWSLSA-N 0.000 description 2
- FBPFZTCFMRRESA-JGWLITMVSA-N D-glucitol Chemical compound OC[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H](O)CO FBPFZTCFMRRESA-JGWLITMVSA-N 0.000 description 2
- ZAQJHHRNXZUBTE-UHFFFAOYSA-N D-threo-2-Pentulose Natural products OCC(O)C(O)C(=O)CO ZAQJHHRNXZUBTE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- YCKRFDGAMUMZLT-UHFFFAOYSA-N Fluorine atom Chemical compound [F] YCKRFDGAMUMZLT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- WQZGKKKJIJFFOK-GASJEMHNSA-N Glucose Natural products OC[C@H]1OC(O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@@H]1O WQZGKKKJIJFFOK-GASJEMHNSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 239000004471 Glycine Substances 0.000 description 2
- DGAQECJNVWCQMB-PUAWFVPOSA-M Ilexoside XXIX Chemical compound C[C@@H]1CC[C@@]2(CC[C@@]3(C(=CC[C@H]4[C@]3(CC[C@@H]5[C@@]4(CC[C@@H](C5(C)C)OS(=O)(=O)[O-])C)C)[C@@H]2[C@]1(C)O)C)C(=O)O[C@H]6[C@@H]([C@H]([C@@H]([C@H](O6)CO)O)O)O.[Na+] DGAQECJNVWCQMB-PUAWFVPOSA-M 0.000 description 2
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Description
従って、本発明の課題は、塗布時の肌への伸びが良好で、しなやかな膜感を有し、肌にハリ、弾力感を付与することができる乳化化粧料を提供することにある。
(A)N−アシルアミノ酸及び/又はその塩、並びに
(B)ヒドロキシステアリン酸エステル
を含有し、油相中に固形状油分を40質量%以上含有することを特徴とする乳化化粧料を提供するものである。
本発明における固形状油分とは、25℃で固体又はペースト状の油分である。25℃で固体又はペースト状の油分は、25℃を超える温度領域に融点を持ち、特にペースト状のものは25℃で完全に液状とならず、半固形状である点で、液状のものと区別することができる。(B)ヒドロキシステアリン酸エステルは、25℃においてペースト状の油分であり、本発明における固形状油分に含まれる。
表1に示した処方の乳化化粧料を製造し、これらを用いて、下記に示した(1)安定性試験、(2)使用感試験を実施した。結果を表1に併せて示す。
各試料を60℃の恒温槽に一週間保管した。一週間後の状態を目視により観察を行い、以下の判定基準を用いて判定した。
〔保存安定性判定基準〕
◎:変化なし
○:やや粘度変化が見られる
△:明らかな粘度変化が見られる
×:分離している
女性パネル(10名)につき、実施例に示す乳化化粧料を使用して、「塗布時の伸び」、「ハリ感」、「べたつき」、「膜感」の4項目に関してアンケートを行い、下記の評価基準に基づき、評価を行った。その結果を表1に合わせて示す。
塗布時の伸び
5:良い
4:やや良い
3:どちらともいえない
2:やや悪い
1:悪い
5:有る
4:やや有る
3:どちらともいえない
2:やや無い
1:無い
5:無い
4:やや無い
3:どちらともいえない
2:やや有る
1:有る
5:柔軟性がある
4:やや柔軟性がある
3:どちらともいえない
2:やや硬い
1:硬い
◎:平均点が4.0以上
○:平均点が3.0以上4.0未満
△:平均点が2.0以上3.0未満
×:平均点が2.0未満
A.(油相)成分(1)〜(15)を80℃にて均一に混合溶解する。
B.(水相)成分(16)〜(24)を80℃にて均一に混合溶解する。
C.Aを80℃に維持しながら、Bを徐々に添加し、ホモミキサーで均一に乳化させる。その後、常温まで冷却して乳化化粧料を得た。
配合成分 質量%
(1)スクワラン 17.0
(2)メチルポリシロキサン 1.0
(3)ステアリン酸 (S) 1.0
(4)トリステアリン酸グリセリル (S) 3.0
(5)ポリオキシエチレンセチルエーテル(POE20) (S) 1.0
(6)ベヘニルアルコール (C) 3.0
(7)ミツロウ (S) 2.5
(8)パルミチン酸セチル (S) 1.5
(9)ヒドロキシステアリン酸水添ヒマシ油 (B) 2.5
(10)ヘキサヒドロキシステアリン酸ジペンタエリスエチル (B)2.0
(11)トリエチルヘキサン酸グリセリル 6.0
(12)ステアロイルグルタミン酸ナトリウム (A) 1.0
(13)マルチトール液 (E) 5.0
(14)グリセリン (D) 4.0
(15)ジプロピレングリコール (D) 5.0
(16)フェノキシエタノール 0.4
(17)キサンタンガム 0.1
(18)エデト酸二ナトリウム 0.05
(19)バラ抽出液 0.1
(20)精製水 残 余
※( )内のA〜Eは、本発明中における成分表記、Sは固形状油分であることを示す。処方例1においては、(B)、(C)、S成分が固形状油分であり、油相中に固形状油分を約40.7%含有する。
A.(油相)成分(1)〜(11)を80℃にて均一に混合溶解する。
B.(水相)成分(12)〜(20)を80℃にて均一に混合溶解する。
C.Aを80℃に維持しながら、Bを徐々に添加し、ホモミキサーで均一に乳化する。その後、常温まで冷却し、目元用クリームを得た。
Claims (8)
- 次の成分(A)並びに(B)、
(A)炭素原子数8〜22の飽和又は不飽和の直鎖又は分岐鎖の脂肪酸由来のアシル基がグルタミン酸に結合したN−アシルアミノ酸及び/又はその塩、並びに
(B)ヒドロキシステアリン酸エステル
を含有し、油相中に固形状油分を40〜50質量%含有する洗い流しタイプでない乳化化粧料。 - 固形状油分が、高級アルコール、脂肪酸及びこれらのエステル又はエーテル、ワックス、並びにロウからなる群から選択される1種以上である請求項1に記載の乳化化粧料。
- (B)ヒドロキシステアリン酸エステルが、ヒドロキシステアリン酸と炭素原子数1〜22の飽和又は不飽和の直鎖又は分岐鎖の炭化水素基含有ヒドロキシ化合物とのエステル、及びヒドロキシステアリン酸とコレステロール又はフィトステロールとのエステルからなる群から選択される1種以上である請求項1又は2に記載の乳化化粧料。
- (B)ヒドロキシステアリン酸エステルが、ヒドロキシステアリン酸水添ヒマシ油及びヘキサヒドロキシステアリン酸ジペンタエリスチリルからなる群から選択される1種以上である請求項1〜3のいずれか1項に記載の乳化化粧料。
- 固形状油分中に、さらに(C)炭素数14〜26の高級アルコールを含有する請求項1〜4のいずれか1項に記載の乳化化粧料。
- さらに(D)2価又は3価アルコールを含有する請求項1〜5のいずれか1項に記載の乳化化粧料。
- さらに(E)単糖類、二糖類又はこれらの糖アルコールを含有する請求項1〜6のいずれか1項に記載の乳化化粧料。
- 抗老化化粧料、目元用化粧料、口元用化粧料、化粧下地化粧料又はファンデーションである請求項1〜7のいずれか1項に記載の乳化化粧料。
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