JP5121598B2 - Water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic - Google Patents

Description

  The present invention relates to a water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic, and more particularly to a water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic having a fresh feel and excellent storage stability.

The feature of water-in-oil emulsified cosmetics is that they have good makeup and are used in foundations and sunscreens. However, it has disadvantages such as feeling oily at the time of application and inferior storage stability as compared with oil-in-water emulsified cosmetics. Although attempts have been made to eliminate these disadvantages by blending a water-soluble polymer, the results are not satisfactory. (See Patent Documents 1 to 4)
Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 9-175979 Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 2001-181180 JP 2002-348210 A JP 2006-160714 A

  Accordingly, an object of the present invention is to provide a water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic that has a fresh feel during application and is excellent in storage stability.

  The above purpose is (A) water-soluble polysaccharide, (B) polyhydric alcohol fatty acid ester type surfactant having an HLB value of 6 or less and liquid at 25 ° C., (C) hydrogenated lecithin, (D) volatile This is achieved by a water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic containing silicone.

  The water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic of the present invention has a fresh feel and is particularly excellent in storage stability, but also has the advantages of long-lasting makeup, uniform finish, moisture retention, and safety (low irritation). Yes.

The (A) water-soluble polysaccharide used in the present invention is one that is extracted and purified from animal or plant tissues or one obtained by microbial fermentation, and is generally used in the fields of cosmetics, pharmaceuticals, and foods. Things can be used. In particular, those having glucuronic acid as a part of the constituent sugar are preferable, and examples thereof include tuberose polysaccharide, white jellyfish polysaccharide, hyaluronic acid and salts thereof, and xanthan gum. Tuberose polysaccharide is a viscous polysaccharide that is released extracellularly after cultivating petal callus of tuberose (Polianthes tuberosa L.) in an agar medium, and can be obtained by filtering, desalting and concentrating it. it can. Specifically, commercially available products such as Sofcare TP-SB (manufactured by Kao Corporation) can also be used. Further, the white jellyfish polysaccharide can be obtained by extraction and purification from the dried fruiting body of Tremella fuciformis Berk. Specifically, commercially available products such as Tremoist-TP (manufactured by Nippon Seika Co., Ltd.) can also be used.
The blending amount is preferably 0.001 to 0.5% by mass, particularly preferably 0.01 to 0.2% by mass based on the total amount of the water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic. If the blending amount is less than 0.001% by mass, there may be little effect of feeling freshness only at the time of application. If the blending amount exceeds 0.5% by mass, the feel at the time of application becomes heavy or the storage stability is lowered. There is a case.

The polyhydric alcohol fatty acid ester type surfactant (B) having an HLB value of 6 or less used in the present invention and liquid at 25 ° C. is sorbitan fatty acid ester or glycerin fatty acid ester. Particularly preferred are sorbitan monoisostearate, sorbitan monooleate, diglyceryl monoisostearate, diglyceryl monooleate. The blending amount is preferably 0.1 to 4.0% by mass, particularly preferably 0.5 to 2.5% by mass based on the total amount of the water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic. If the blending amount is less than 0.1% by mass, it may be insufficient in terms of storage stability, and if it exceeds 4.0% by mass, the liquid surfactant itself will feel strongly sticky, The feel during application may be heavy.
In addition, the HLB value in this invention means what is calculated by the following Kawakami formula (I).
HLB = 7 + 11.7 log (Mw / Mo) (I)
Here, in the formula (I), Mw represents the molecular weight of the hydrophilic base and Mo represents the molecular weight of the lipophilic base.

  The (C) hydrogenated lecithin used in the present invention is one obtained by hydrogenating lecithin obtained from soybeans or egg yolk to improve stability, and uses one generally used in the fields of cosmetics, pharmaceuticals and foods. it can. The blending amount is preferably 0.01 to 0.2% by mass, particularly preferably 0.05 to 0.15% by mass, based on the total amount of the water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic. If the blending amount is less than 0.01% by mass, it may be insufficient in terms of storage stability. If the blending amount exceeds 0.2% by mass, it will precipitate as crystals depending on the compatibility in the oil phase component. There is a case.

As the component (D) volatile silicone used in the present invention, any silicone oil having volatility at room temperature (25 ° C.) and generally used in cosmetics can be used. Is a cyclic silicone having a polymerization degree of 3 to 7 such as linear dimethylpolysiloxane having a polymerization degree of 0 to 5, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, or the like, represented by the general formula [(CH ₃ ) ₃ SiO] ₃ SiCH ₃ , methyltrimethicone represented by general formula [(CH ₃ ) ₃ SiO] ₄ Si, and tetrakistrimethylsiloxysilane. The blending amount is preferably 5.0 to 50.0% by mass, particularly preferably 7.0 to 40% by mass, based on the total amount of the water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic. By using volatile silicone, the oily feeling at the time of application can be suppressed, and a fresh and light feel can be obtained. When the blending amount is less than 5.0% by mass, the effect of feeling lightness at the time of application may be small, and when the blending amount exceeds 50.0% by mass, the coating feels slippery and the adhesion to the skin is impaired. There is a case.

  In addition to the above essential components, the water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic of the present invention contains an oil component, a moisturizer, an emulsifier, a fragrance, a UV absorber, an antiseptic, a plant extract, a pigment and the like as necessary. I can do it.

  The water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic of the present invention can be prepared according to a conventional method, and can be applied to makeup cosmetics such as foundations, makeup bases, sunscreens, and skin care cosmetics such as creams and emulsions. Is possible.

  EXAMPLES Hereinafter, although an Example and a comparative example are given and this invention is further explained in full detail, this invention is not limited by this.

For water-soluble polysaccharides, the following raw materials were used in advance by preparing a 1% aqueous solution with purified water.
-Sodium hyaluronate: hyaluronic acid FCH-SU (manufactured by Kibun Food Chemifa)
・ Xanthan gum: Celtrol (manufactured by Kelco)
-White jellyfish polysaccharide: Tremoist-TP (manufactured by Nippon Seika Co., Ltd.)
・ Tuberose polysaccharide: Sofcare TP-SB (manufactured by Kao Corporation)

Example 1 (skin care cream)
(mass%)
1. Sorbitan monoisostearate 2.0
2. Hydrogenated lecithin 0.05
3. Volatile silicone (branched tetramer) * 1 20.0
4). Α-Olefin Oligomer with C30 as Main Component 5.0
5.1% aqueous sodium hyaluronate solution 20.0
6). Dipropylene glycol 3.0
7. Sorbitol 3.0
8). Chlorphenesin 0.2
9. Fish-derived water-soluble collagen 0.5
10. Purified water to 100.0
11. Phenoxyethanol 0.2
* 1; TMF-1.5 (manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.)

Manufacturing method Ingredients 1 to 4 were dissolved by heating, and components 5 to 10 were dissolved by heating. The ingredients 11 were added and dispersed, and then cooled to room temperature.

Comparative Example 1
A skin care cream was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1 except that a 1% sodium polyacrylate aqueous solution was used instead of the 1% sodium hyaluronate aqueous solution of Example 1.

Example 2 (Sunscreen)
(mass%)
1. Diglyceryl monooleate 2.5
2. Hydrogenated lecithin 0.08
3. Volatile silicone (linear pentamer) * 2 7.0
4). Octyl paramethoxycinnamate 5.0
5). Plant-based squalane 5.0
6). Silicone-treated fine particle titanium oxide 3.0
7.1% aqueous xanthan gum 10.0
8.1,3-Butylene glycol 5.0
9. Chlorphenesin 0.2
10. Sorbic acid 0.05
11. Purified water to 100.0
* 2: SH200CF fluid 2CS (manufactured by Toray Dow Corning)

Production Method Components 1 to 5 were dissolved by heating, and then component 6 was added and dispersed therein. This was added with components 7 to 11 dissolved by heating, dispersed and cooled to room temperature.

Comparative Example 2
In place of diglyceryl monooleate in Example 2, glyceryl monostearate (NIKKOL MGS-AMV, manufactured by Nikko Chemicals) having an HLB value of 4 and a temperature of 25 ° C. was used in the same manner as in Example 2. A screen was prepared.

Example 3 (make-up base)
(mass%)
1. Diglyceryl monoisostearate 0.5
2. Hydrogenated lecithin 0.1
3. Volatile silicone (alkyl-modified linear trimer) * 3 25.0
4). Polyether-modified silicone * 4 1.5
5). Propylene glycol dicaprylate 5.0
6). Polymethylsilsesquioxane * 5 2.0
7. 1% white jellyfish polysaccharide aqueous solution 15.0
8). Glycerin 5.0
9. Maltitol 3.0
10. Sodium dehydroacetate 0.1
11. Purified water to 100.0
12 Phenoxyethanol 0.2
* 3: SS-3408 (Toray Dow Corning)
* 4; KF-6028 (manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.)
* 5: TSPEARL 145A (Momentive Performance Materials Japan)

Production method Components 1 to 5 were dissolved by heating, and component 6 was added and dispersed. To this was added a component in which components 7 to 11 were heated and dissolved, and component 12 was further added and dispersed, followed by cooling to room temperature.

Comparative Example 3
A makeup base was prepared in the same manner as in Example 3 except that purified water was used in place of the 1% white fungus polysaccharide aqueous solution of Example 3.

Example 4 (Foundation)
(mass%)
1. Sorbitan monoisostearate 1.0
2. Hydrogenated lecithin 0.15
3. Volatile silicone (cyclic pentamer) * 6 10.0
4). Polyether-modified silicone mixture * 7 5.0
5). Α-Olefin Oligomer with C30 as Main Component 5.0
6). Octyl paramethoxycinnamate 3.0
7. Glyceryl tribehenate 0.3
8.1% aqueous tuberose polysaccharide solution 5.0
9. Dipropylene glycol 5.0
10. Maltitol 3.0
11. Sodium chloride 0.5
12 Chlorphenesin 0.2
13. Purified water to 100.0
14 Titanium oxide 8.0
15. Iron oxide 1.0
16. Talc 3.0
17. Cross-linked silicone powder * 8 1.0
18. Phenoxyethanol 0.2
* 6; TSF405 (Momentive Performance Materials Japan)
* 7: BY22-008M (88% volatile cyclic pentamer silicone, 10% polyether-modified silicone, 2% water, manufactured by Toray Dow Corning)
* 8: Trefill E-508 (Toray Dow Corning)

Production Method Ingredients 14 to 17 were mixed and pulverized, and ingredients 1 to 7 were added to and dispersed in the heated solution. Ingredients 8 to 13 were dissolved by heating and added to the dispersion, and further, ingredient 18 was added and dispersed, followed by cooling to room temperature.

Comparative Example 4
A foundation was prepared in the same manner as in Example 4 except that the hydrogenated lecithin of Example 4 was not added.

Example 5 (solid wrinkle concealment)
(mass%)
1. Sorbitan monooleate 2.0
2. Hydrogenated lecithin 0.12
3. Volatile silicone (cyclic hexamer) * 9 40.0
4). Cross-linked methylpolysiloxane mixture * 10 10.0
5). Dimethylpolysiloxane (6cs) 3.0
6). Paraffin 3.0
7. Microcrystalline wax 1.0
8). Polymethylsilsesquioxane * 11 5.0
9. Cross-linked silicone powder * 12 5.0
10. Polyalkyl acrylate * 13 5.0
11.1% aqueous tuberose polysaccharide solution 1.0
12 Dipropylene glycol 5.0
13. Maltitol 2.0
14 Chlorphenesin 0.05
15. Purified water to 100.0
* 9; DC246 Fluid (manufactured by Toray Dow Corning)
* 10; KSG-16 (manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.)
* 11; TOSPEARL2000B (Momentive Performance Materials Japan)
* 12: Trefill E-506C (Toray Dow Corning)
* 13: Microsphere S-102 (Matsumoto Yushi Seiyaku Co., Ltd.)

Production Method Components 1 to 7 were dissolved by heating, and components 8 to 10 were added and dispersed. The components 11 to 15 dissolved by heating were added and dispersed therein, filled into containers and cooled to room temperature.

Comparative Example 5
A solid wrinkle mask was prepared in the same manner as in Example 5 except that dimethylpolysiloxane (6cs) was used instead of the volatile silicone of Example 5.

  Test methods of (1) use characteristic evaluation test and (2) storage stability test conducted in the present invention are as follows.

(1) Use characteristic evaluation test Twenty female panel members applied each sample of the examples and comparative examples, and the use characteristics were evaluated according to the number of respondents who replied "It is fresh and light."

(2) Storage stability test The cosmetic was stored in a thermostatic bath at 0 ° C, 25 ° C, and 45 ° C for 3 months, and it was examined whether separation of the water phase component and the oil phase component occurred.
No separation when stored at any temperature: ◎
Not separated when stored at 25 ° C or lower, separated when stored at 45 ° C: ○
Separate even when stored at 25 ° C or lower: ×

The results of the above tests on the samples of Examples 1 to 5 and Comparative Examples 1 to 5 are shown below.
Examples Comparative examples
1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5
―――――――――――――――――――――――――――――――――――――――
Service characteristics evaluation test 18 17 17 18 15 10 15 17 17 1
Storage stability test ◎ ◎ ◎ ◎ ◎ ○ × × × ◎

  The samples of Examples 1 to 5 of the present invention were superior to the samples of Comparative Examples 1 to 5 in comprehensive evaluation of usage characteristics and storage stability.

  The water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic of the present invention has a fresh and light touch and is particularly excellent in storage stability, but also has the advantages of long-lasting makeup, uniform finish, moisture retention, and safety (low irritation). ing. Therefore, it can be applied in the field of pharmaceuticals, quasi-drugs and cosmetics used for skin conditioning and beauty, and is extremely useful in industry.

Claims (2)

(A) a water-soluble polysaccharide, (B) an HLB value of 6 or less, and a polyhydric alcohol fatty acid ester surfactant that is liquid at 25 ° C., (C) hydrogenated lecithin, and (D) volatile silicone. Water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic. The water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the component (B) is at least one selected from sorbitan monoisostearate, sorbitan monooleate, diglyceryl monoisostearate and diglyceryl monooleate.