JP2010001260A - Water-in-oil type emulsion cosmetic - Google Patents

Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a water-in-oil type emulsion cosmetic that has light feel at the time of application and excellent storage stability. <P>SOLUTION: The water-in-oil type emulsion cosmetic comprises (A) 0.05-3.0 mass% of a polyether-modified silicone represented by the general formula (wherein m is 50-1,000; n is 1-40; and a and b are each an integer of 5-50), (B) 0.3-3.0 mass% of a polyhydric alcohol fatty acid ester type surfactant having an HLB value of ≤6 and being liquid at 25°C and (C) 0.4-2.5 mass% of a solid oil component having an ester structure comprising behenic acid and glycerol and a melting point of 50-70°C. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2010,JPO&INPIT

Description

  The present invention relates to a water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic, and particularly relates to a water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic that is light in touch and excellent in storage stability.

A major feature of water-in-oil emulsified cosmetics is that they have a long-lasting makeup and have been frequently used in foundations and sunscreens in recent years. However, the water-in-oil type is generally inferior in terms of storage stability compared to the oil-in-water type. This is considered to be due to the fact that the stabilizing effect by the electric double layer hardly acts in the former. Therefore, improvement of storage stability by various surfactants has been attempted, one of which is a combination of a polyether-modified silicone and a polyhydric alcohol fatty acid ester surfactant (see Patent Documents 1 and 2). . However, in order to have both a light touch at the time of application and excellent storage stability, the results are not satisfactory.
JP-A-7-277922 JP 2002-348210 A

  Accordingly, an object of the present invention is to provide a water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic that is light in touch during application and excellent in storage stability.

  The above purpose is (A) the following general formula

（式中、ｍは５０〜１０００、ｎは１〜４０、ａとｂはそれぞれ５〜５０の整数）
で表わされるポリエーテル変性シリコーンを０．０５〜３．０質量％、（Ｂ）ＨＬＢ値６以下であり、２５℃で液状の多価アルコール脂肪酸エステル型界面活性剤を０．３〜３．０質量％、（Ｃ）ベヘン酸とグリセリンからなるエステル構造を持ち、融点が５０〜７０℃である固形油分を０．４〜２．５質量％含有する油中水型乳化化粧料により達成される。

(Wherein, m is 50 to 1000, n is 1 to 40, and a and b are each an integer of 5 to 50)
0.05 to 3.0% by mass of a polyether-modified silicone represented by the formula (B): a polyhydric alcohol fatty acid ester type surfactant having a HLB value of 6 or less and liquid at 25 ° C. Mass%, (C) having an ester structure composed of behenic acid and glycerin, and achieved by a water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic containing 0.4 to 2.5 mass% of a solid oil having a melting point of 50 to 70 ° C. .

  The water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic of the present invention has a light touch when applied and is particularly excellent in storage stability, but also has advantages such as long-lasting makeup, uniform finish, moisture retention, and safety (low irritation). have.

The (A) polyether-modified silicone used in the present invention is represented by the general formula of Chemical Formula 1 above. As commercially available products, BY22-008M (manufactured by Toray Dow Corning Co., Ltd., containing 10% polyether-modified silicone), BY11-030 (manufactured by Toray Dow Corning Co., Ltd., containing 50% polyether-modified silicone) and the like can be used. The blending amount is 0.05 to 3.0% by mass, particularly preferably 0.1 to 2.5% by mass based on the total amount of the water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic. If it is less than 0.05% by mass, satisfactory results cannot be obtained in terms of storage stability. If it exceeds 3.0% by mass, the viscosity of the cosmetic composition becomes too high, and a light touch at the time of application cannot be obtained.

The polyhydric alcohol fatty acid ester type surfactant (B) having an HLB value of 6 or less used in the present invention and liquid at 25 ° C. is sorbitan fatty acid ester or glycerin fatty acid ester. Particularly preferred are sorbitan monoisostearate, sorbitan monooleate, diglyceryl monoisostearate, diglyceryl monooleate. The blending amount is 0.3 to 3.0% by mass, particularly preferably 0.5 to 2.5% by mass, based on the total amount of the water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic. If it is less than 0.3% by mass, satisfactory results are not obtained in terms of storage stability. If it exceeds 3.0% by mass, the liquid surfactant itself will feel strongly sticky, and the feeling during application will be heavy. In addition, the HLB value in this invention means what is calculated by the following Kawakami formula (I).
HLB = 7 + 11.7 log (Mw / Mo) (I)
Here, in the formula (I), Mw represents the molecular weight of the hydrophilic base and Mo represents the molecular weight of the lipophilic base.

  (C) The solid oil component having an ester structure consisting of behenic acid and glycerin used in the present invention and having a melting point of 50 to 70 ° C. includes glyceryl tribehenate, tri (behenic acid / isostearic acid / eicosanedioic acid) glyceryl, (Behenic acid / eicosanedioic acid) glyceryl and the like, particularly preferred is glyceryl tribehenate. The blending amount is 0.4 to 2.5% by mass, particularly preferably 0.6 to 2.0% by mass based on the total amount of the water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic. If the amount is less than 0.4% by mass, the amount is insufficient to increase the viscosity of the oil phase and improve the storage stability. If it exceeds 2.5% by mass, the oil phase becomes too hard, and a light feel during application cannot be obtained.

  In addition to the above essential components, the water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic of the present invention contains an oil component, a moisturizer, an emulsifier, a fragrance, a UV absorber, an antiseptic, a plant extract, a pigment and the like as necessary. be able to.

  The water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic of the present invention can be prepared according to a conventional method, and can be applied to makeup cosmetics such as foundations, makeup bases, sunscreens, and skin care cosmetics such as creams and emulsions. Is possible.

  EXAMPLES Hereinafter, although an Example and a comparative example are given and this invention is further explained in full detail, this invention is not limited by this.

Example 1 (skin care cream)
(mass%)
1. Polyether-modified silicone * 1 1.5
2. Sorbitan monooleate 0.5
3. Glyceryl tribehenate 1.5
4). Cyclic pentamer silicone * 2 20.0
5). Α-Olefin Oligomer with C50 as Main Component 5.0
6). Propylene glycol dicaprylate 3.0
7). Dipropylene glycol 5.0
8). Maltitol 3.0
9. Chlorphenesin 0.2
10. Purified water to 100.0
11. Phenoxyethanol 0.2
12 Astragalus extract 0.5
13. Panax ginseng extract 0.5
14 Royal Jelly Extract 0.5
* 1: Use 50% of BY11-030 (Toray Dow Corning) * 2; TSF405 (Momentive Performance Materials Japan)

Production Method Components 1 to 6 were dissolved by heating, and components 7 to 10 were dissolved by heating and dispersed therein. Furthermore, after components 11-14 were added and dispersed, it was cooled to 30 ° C. and further dispersed again.

Comparative Example 1
A skin care cream was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1 except that sorbitan monooleate in Example 1 was 0.2% by mass and cyclic pentamer silicone was 20.3% by mass.

Example 2 (Sunscreen)
(mass%)
1. Polyether-modified silicone * 3 0.1
2. Diglyceryl monooleate 2.5
3. Glyceryl tribehenate 2.0
4). Branched tetramer silicone * 4 15.0
5). Cyclic pentamer silicone * 2 5.0
6). 2-Ethylhexyl paramethoxycinnamate 5.0
7). Plant-based squalane 3.0
8.4-tert-butyl-4′-methoxydibenzoylmethane 1.5
9. Soybean hydrogenated lecithin 0.01
10. Glycerin 3.0
11. Chlorphenesin 0.2
12 Sodium dehydroacetate 0.1
13. Purified water to 100.0
14 Fish-derived collagen 0.1
15. Sage extract 0.5
16. Hydrolyzed silk 0.1
* 3: Use 10% of BY22-008M (Toray Dow Corning) * 4; TMF-1.5 (Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.)

Production method Ingredients 1 to 9 were dissolved by heating, and components 10 to 13 were dissolved by heating and dispersed therein. Further, components 14 to 16 were added and dispersed, and then cooled to 30 ° C. and further dispersed again.

Comparative Example 2
A sunscreen was prepared in the same manner as in Example 2 except that the polyether-modified silicone in Example 2 was 0.04% and the branched tetramer silicone was 15.06% by mass.

Comparative Example 3
A sunscreen was prepared in the same manner as in Example 2 except that 3.1% by mass of diglyceryl monooleate and 14.4% by mass of branched tetramer silicone were used.

Comparative Example 4
A sunscreen was prepared in the same manner as in Example 2 except that 2.6% by mass of glyceryl tribehenate and 14.4% by mass of branched tetramer silicone in Example 2 were used.

Example 3 (make-up base)
(mass%)
1. Polyether-modified silicone * 1 2.5
2. Diglyceryl monoisostearate 1.5
3. Glyceryl tribehenate 1.0
4). Cyclic pentamer silicone * 2 15.0
5). Alkyl-modified linear trimer silicone * 5 10.0
6). Α-Olefin Oligomer with C30 as Main Component 5.0
7). Neopentyl glycol diethylhexanoate 2.0
8). Soybean hydrogenated lecithin 0.01
9.1,3-Butylene glycol 5.0
10. Sorbitol 3.0
11. Purified water to 100.0
12 Titanium oxide 0.5
13. Oxidation (Al / cobalt), titanium oxide, alumina-coated mica 0.1
14 Talc 1.0
15. Phenoxyethanol 0.5
16. Juzdama extract 0.3
17. Cha extract 0.3
18. Black tea extract 0.3
* 5; SS-3408 (Toray Dow Corning)

Production method
Components 12 to 14 were mixed and pulverized, and components 1 to 8 were added to and dissolved in the heated solution. Components 9 to 11 were dissolved by heating and added thereto, dispersed, and further components 15 to 18 were added and dispersed, followed by cooling to 30 ° C. and further dispersing again.

Comparative Example 5
Instead of diglyceryl monoisostearate of Example 3, makeup was performed in the same manner as in Example 3 except that solid glyceryl monostearate (NIKKOL MGS-AMV manufactured by Nikko Chemicals) at an HLB value of 4 at 25 ° C. was used. Adjusted the up base.

Comparative Example 6
A makeup base was prepared in the same manner as in Example 3, except that cetanol was used instead of glyceryl tribehenate in Example 3.

Comparative Example 7
A makeup base was prepared in the same manner as in Example 3 except that 3.1% by mass of the polyether-modified silicone of Example 3 and 14.4% by mass of the cyclic pentamer silicone were used.

Example 4 (Foundation)
(mass%)
1. Polyether-modified silicone * 3 1.0
2. Sorbitan monoisostearate 1.0
3. Glyceryl tribehenate 0.6
4). Cyclic pentamer silicone * 2 20.0
5). Isononyl isononanoate 5.0
6). Diisostearyl malate 1.0
7). Soybean hydrogenated lecithin 0.01
8). Maltitol 5.0
9. Dipropylene glycol 2.0
10. Sodium dehydroacetate 0.1
11. Purified water to 100.0
12 Titanium oxide 8.0
13. Iron oxide 1.0
14 Talc 3.0
15. Nylon-12 powder 1.5
16. Phenoxyethanol 0.2
17. Hydrolyzed conchiolin 0.1
18. Olive leaf extract 0.1
19. Laminaria blue squid extract 0.1

Production Method Ingredients 12 to 15 were mixed and pulverized, and ingredients 1 to 7 were added to and dissolved in the heated solution. Ingredients 8 to 11 were dissolved by heating and added to the dispersion, and further components 16 to 19 were added and dispersed, and then cooled to 30 ° C. and further dispersed again.

Comparative Example 8
The foundation was adjusted in the same manner as in Example 4 except that 0.3% by mass of glyceryl tribehenate of Example 4 and 20.3% by mass of cyclic pentamer silicone were used.

Test methods of (1) use characteristic evaluation test and (2) storage stability test conducted in the present invention are as follows.
(1) Use characteristic evaluation test Twenty female panel members applied each sample of the examples and comparative examples, and the use characteristics were evaluated according to the number of respondents who replied that "feel when applied" was light.
(2) Storage stability test The cosmetic was stored in a thermostatic bath at 0 ° C, 25 ° C, and 45 ° C for 3 months, and it was examined whether separation of the water phase component and the oil phase component occurred.
No separation when stored at any temperature: ◎
Not separated when stored at 25 ° C or lower, separated when stored at 45 ° C: ○
Separate even when stored at 25 ° C or lower: ×
The results of the above tests on the samples of Examples 1 to 4 and Comparative Examples 1 to 8 are shown below.

Example
1 2 3 4
――――――――――――――――――――――
Service characteristics evaluation test 19 16 18 17
Storage stability test ◎ ◎ ◎ ◎

Comparative example
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
――――――――――――――――――――――――――――――――――
Service characteristics evaluation test 19 15 3 2 16 17 2 17
Storage stability test × × ◎ ◎ × × ◎ ×

The samples of Examples 1 to 4 of the present invention were superior to the samples of Comparative Examples 1 to 8 in comprehensive evaluation of use characteristics and storage stability.

  The water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic of the present invention has a light touch when applied and is particularly excellent in storage stability, but also has advantages such as long-lasting makeup, finish uniformity, moisture retention, and safety (low irritation). I have. Therefore, it can be applied in the field of pharmaceuticals, quasi-drugs and cosmetics used for skin conditioning and beauty, and is extremely useful in industry.

Claims (1)

(A) The following general formula

(Wherein, m is 50 to 1000, n is 1 to 40, and a and b are each an integer of 5 to 50)
0.05 to 3.0% by mass of a polyether-modified silicone represented by the formula (B): a polyhydric alcohol fatty acid ester type surfactant having a HLB value of 6 or less and liquid at 25 ° C. A water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic containing 0.4 to 2.5% by mass of a solid oil having an ester structure consisting of behenic acid and glycerin and having a melting point of 50 to 70 ° C.